Much appreciated! Thanks Steve :) I got some new trim tools today with a crows foot style one like you use to do it so will give it a go tomorrow if its not raining
No worries mate, if you're doing it outside then make sure you're as sheltered away from the wind as possible, mabe even throw a tarpaulain over the back of the car. The slightest breeze will cool where you are soldering and you'll end up with a poor soldered joint that will fail again in no time.
Now I am confused. Both connections are solid in the boot. Checked fuse and was fine, relay clicks and button lights up but no heat in rear window. Checked continuity of the grid on the rear window and it's not broken. Any ideas mate? Only getting about 1.5v when checking voltage at the connector on the rear window, is that right? Not sure if my meter is reading correctly 🤔 reads 13.8v at the fuse box with fuse removed and switch on
Check the integrity of the wiring. To do this, unplug both sides of the heated screen, extend the wires so you can connect a halogen bulb to the live & earth, you need a halogen bulb such as an H7 to load the wiring, turn on heated screen, does the bulb light up? If yes then it's a screen fault or bad solder joint. If no, put a seperate earth to the bulb, does it light up now? If yes, earth fault, if no, live fault. If you're still stuck, drop me a pm on fb but it sounds to me like a resistance on the live side.
thanks for the tip on this fix to took the trim off for another problem and found the wire had become disconnected and thanks to this tip fixed it ps do you know where i can get a hose clip for the rear window washer please
Would that work on my Range Rover classic ? both tabs have come off the rear screen I have tried the special glue but it didn't work, just a bit worried about soldering on the glass.
Much appreciated! Thanks Steve :) I got some new trim tools today with a crows foot style one like you use to do it so will give it a go tomorrow if its not raining
No worries mate, if you're doing it outside then make sure you're as sheltered away from the wind as possible, mabe even throw a tarpaulain over the back of the car. The slightest breeze will cool where you are soldering and you'll end up with a poor soldered joint that will fail again in no time.
@@pistonbroke I've got a tarp so will do that. Thanks again!
Now I am confused. Both connections are solid in the boot. Checked fuse and was fine, relay clicks and button lights up but no heat in rear window. Checked continuity of the grid on the rear window and it's not broken. Any ideas mate? Only getting about 1.5v when checking voltage at the connector on the rear window, is that right? Not sure if my meter is reading correctly 🤔 reads 13.8v at the fuse box with fuse removed and switch on
Check the integrity of the wiring. To do this, unplug both sides of the heated screen, extend the wires so you can connect a halogen bulb to the live & earth, you need a halogen bulb such as an H7 to load the wiring, turn on heated screen, does the bulb light up? If yes then it's a screen fault or bad solder joint. If no, put a seperate earth to the bulb, does it light up now? If yes, earth fault, if no, live fault. If you're still stuck, drop me a pm on fb but it sounds to me like a resistance on the live side.
@@pistonbroke I've messaged you on FB. Just tested with a bulb and wont light with the heater ground or a test ground
MG rear screen heated rear window just like the old Skodas to keep your hands warm while you’re pushing it.😳😳😳
thanks for the tip on this fix to took the trim off for another problem and found the wire had become disconnected and thanks to this tip fixed it
ps do you know where i can get a hose clip for the rear window washer please
Handy to know. Was that your own motor?
Yeah it's my car
@@pistonbroke Figured it was with the different tailgate trims. Sack the trimmer for damaging the wire!! 😆
Would that work on my Range Rover classic ? both tabs have come off the rear screen I have tried the special glue but it didn't work, just a bit worried about soldering on the glass.
No reason why it wouldn't as long as there is enough track to solder to and no glass is showing where you want to solder.
I will give a go, thanks.@@pistonbroke
Ideally you need to solder to where it was originally, it's very difficult if not impossible to tin a new section of track with solder.