I bought this exact saw for my dad a few years ago. He is in his 80s and still does a lot of bandsaw work. The blade when centered on the top wheel was tracking very close to the front of the bottom wheel. Your video was a huge help to me and getting the bottom wheel adjusted correctly. Now the blade tracks beautifully in the center of both wheels. Thank you ever so much for making this video!
You are welcome. I'm glad the video helped. One problem I've noticed though since making the video is that the saw won't stay with both wheels tracking properly. Eventually the blade starts moving to either edge of the bottom wheel. Let me know if you see this same problem.
thanks for making this, just acquired a semi-neglected one second-hand and helped me know what to look for and how to get the belt tight and what to expect. Much appreciated!
Thanks man I had the same problem with my Rikon 14" bandsaw. I followed your video tuned it up, made the top and bottom wheels coplanar, by hand before I even turned it on. When I turned it on I thought the saw would be loud but was surprised at how quiet it is. Runs very smooth. I'm very happy with my saw. Thanks again!
Aloha! I had similar issues this evening when changing to my resaw blade, watched your video, went back into the shop and BAM! Done, hums and resaws great, With much Aloha, Thanks for posting!
Great stuff at 3:21 I just put mine together yesterday and noticed the ticking. I noticed yours decreased some with new blade but mostly with tensioning drive belt. I'll try that tonight. Thanks!!
Was able to talk with a RIKON service tech. and following his input this is what I did. Loosened the nut at the opposite end of the cam handle and was able to now move the trunnon but not all the way. Discovered the nut and jam nut were only finger tight so adjusted them. loosened the two bolts holding the trunnon to the saw, they were not that tight. raised the 4 set screws so that the trunnon base now sets on the saw, re tightened the bolts. loosened the three screws on the steel angle scale and added shims which took care of the binding, now able to tilt the table trunnon freely. Will mount the table tomorrow and see what else I am going to have to do. So far so good.
7:17 "I want perfection". IMHO, some battles are better left unfought. I've got the same saw as you and the blade doesn't ride in the same exact place on the bottom wheel as it does on the top. From the research I've done, that's pretty common and doesn't affect the performance. Call me a coward, but I'm going to leave the lower wheel alone. With those four adjustment screws, things can go wrong pretty easily and there isn't a reset button to get back to where you started. With that said, I did like your video and found it well done and very informative. You get a Like and a subscriber. Thanks. Mark
Great review ,I have this model and did not get the nylon fence glide that shipped with your unit and if you look on Rikon's web site neither does it show it on their manual parts list. My on-off switch is very stiff ( off side ) For a safety point of view you think it should not be. The switch's location is also a problem for me , as its located where you have to reach around the fence and down to get to it, (poor should have located higher). Otherwise a great saw.
Still a great review even after it being 3 years old. Regarding the wheels on the base getting in the way of the cabinet door...can you just move the wheels to the other side?....Thanks
No, I looked at moving the wheels, but then they would prevent the door from opening at all. I think Rikon should look at fixing this small detail, but really the door opens adequately far and it hasn't caused me much inconvenience in the past 3 years.
Had issue with lower thrust bearing limited range of travel, would not adjust to back of 1/4” blade. Rikon support had me remove lower bearing assembly, then remove thrust bearing to expose the bearing mount cylinder to remove the bearing mount cylinder and spring from the main guide block. The spring was jammed in the cylinder. Easy fix!! Pay attention to the main guide block position when reinstalling.
Hello David, thank you for the helpful video. I have the same saw, and it was quite a challenge getting it all aligned, and then one day of course I turn it on without engaging the blade tension, and out of alignment it goes. Have you or anyone reading cut wood with epoxy in it. I have tried to do that, but it seems like epoxy was the blades kryptonite. The blade is now smoking (just slightly) when it shouldn't. Most likely will have to replace the blade.
No, I haven't worked much with epoxy, but I have had the same issue with alignment. As you have also observed, the blade can randomly come out of alignment. I have especially noticed this after changing blades. I need to do a little more investigating, but I think the problem is that the top wheel doesn't always traverse the same path when tightening or loosening the blade. This results in random alignment with the bottom wheel.
@@craftsmandavid5970 On my Rikon, I find there's no way you will change from a 1/4" blade to a 3/4" blade and have the wheels remain coplanar without adjusting the bottom wheel. I can't help but suspect you had super high tension on your 1/4" blade and super low tension on the 3/4" blade to make them match up like that in your video. I.e., I think that your 3/4" blade was "still centered/coplanar", because you didn't tension it enough. The frame of the saw bends with tension. Higher tension bends it more, esp the 14" resaw giraffe-neck version. A saw frame can't stay coplanar through big tension changes. You don't make your saw coplanar and then done. You make it coplanar to a specific tension. When you got the saw, it was probably adjusted for the blade it came with, and it should work ok within a certain range. You tuned it to the 1/4" blade at w/e tension you were running it. With an increase in tension, the blade will track towards the front of the bottom wheel; when you decrease tension, the blade will move towards the back of the bottom wheel. To get the blade straight, top to bottom, you want to keep the blade tracking more or less in the same spot on the wheels, but it doesn't have to be perfect. Where you put the gullets doesn't mean much, other than the fact that adjusting the tracking changes the tension in and of itself. (After you get your tension where you want it, always compensate/adjust the tension if you change the tracking.) With an increase in tension, the top wheel moves to the right and towards the front of the saw. And this twists the top wheel slightly clockwise. Reverse when decreasing tension. So the cut direction also changes with tension. You will have to adjust the table CW when increasing tension, CCW when decreasing it, if you want your fence and miter slots to work properly. A bandsaw can cut straight without exactly on the right line, but the more you increase the feed rate and/or thickness, the more you have to get it on line.
I am struggling with getting my Rikon Bandsaw wheels co-planar. It seems that the upper tracking adjustment is in conflict w the small adjustments you make for the lower wheel. Appreciate you comments
great video. I've been having trouble resawing with 10-326 and your video has answered many of my questions. when you have time could you answer some questions: 1. do you use the resaw bar? 2. do yyou resharpen your blades? 3. do you have a preference for blade size and manufacture for blades. I've received some recycled wood that's old and very dry but hard to cut. Thanks.
I have only re-sawed for a project one time since making the video. I did not use the bar, but blade drift was a problem so I think I will try it next time. For Re-sawing, use the largest blade that will fit on your saw. I bought the Timber Wolf which worked well.
i bought this bandsaw about 2 yrs ago and never used it,,i went out earlier and tried to rip a 2 inch piece of maple and it did nothing,,,what little bit it did rip vered so far off it wasnt even funny,,any suggestions,,,,,looks like im going to sell it
suggestion for the future, instead of a 'two man lifting competition' in order to place the upper section onto the lower stand, you could lay the lower stand on its side and mate the upper section, already laying on its side, to the stand. insert bolts then lift the entire bandsaw upright . . .
I’m considering getting this but I have a question if you can help me. I will primarily use this to cut logs to make bowl blanks, these may be up to 12” thick. Do you think this saw can handle that workload?
Those of us who've been playing with bandsaws for a "while" don't fall for the co-planer hog wash. Really, do people believe companies that have been in business longer than most have been alive don't know anything about the tools they manufacture? I should qualify this with that my Powermatic's lower wheel does not adjust, like the Rikon's does. I also have never had problems with the PM, like those that JUST developed with the Rikon (until I get the beast adjusted). As others pointed out, I run the gullet on or as much to center as is reasonably possible. Of course, with a 3/4" blade, that isn't happening. Set up like this, I get no drift. My Rikon started throwing the belt. Checking, I found a bad bearing, though the saw didn't have ten to twelve hours of run time on it. New bearings installed, it still tosses belts, and is tracking questionably. Clearly, the lower wheel needs to be adjusted to closer center the blade back from the door. It may need a bit of left and right adjustment too.
Put the top blade gullet in the center of wheel and that will eliminate drift. I also had to adjust my sear's bottom wheel to allow the top setting. Carters Snodgrass is best I have seen on bandsaw setup.
I just got a 10-353 and if I don't remember to engage the blade tensioner the saw doesn't turn on. Nice blade saver feature. I guess yours doesn't have that. And if you want to get more confusion about blade placement, watch the guy from Carter tools describe where the blade should be on bandsaws. Got some good tips for my new saw from this video though , thank you.
Great video. I am looked at a floor model today and was hoping that I liked it but I'm not crazy about the fence, seems like a lot of unnecessary slop adjustment and fooling around with it just to get it square to the table. How do you like yours? Also I played with adjusting the guide bearings on it and they would touch the blade at the back and be open toward the gullet no matter how much i messed with them. Do your bearings ride true and square with the blade?
The problem is you can't set the wheels straight because the cabinet doesn't allow you to set a straight edge against the side of the wheels that gives you proper alignment
Hi David! Have you had to replace the bearing guides yet? Do they seem to be staying in top shape? (For me this is one of the determining factors between going with the Rikon 10-326 and Laguna 14-12)
I bought this exact saw for my dad a few years ago. He is in his 80s and still does a lot of bandsaw work. The blade when centered on the top wheel was tracking very close to the front of the bottom wheel. Your video was a huge help to me and getting the bottom wheel adjusted correctly. Now the blade tracks beautifully in the center of both wheels. Thank you ever so much for making this video!
You are welcome. I'm glad the video helped. One problem I've noticed though since making the video is that the saw won't stay with both wheels tracking properly. Eventually the blade starts moving to either edge of the bottom wheel. Let me know if you see this same problem.
Congratulations on your new band saw. I like the re-saw capabilities and the tall fence. Good job getting it adjusted and running smooth.
thanks for making this, just acquired a semi-neglected one second-hand and helped me know what to look for and how to get the belt tight and what to expect. Much appreciated!
Thanks man I had the same problem with my Rikon 14" bandsaw. I followed your video tuned it up, made the top and bottom wheels coplanar, by hand before I even turned it on. When I turned it on I thought the saw would be loud but was surprised at how quiet it is. Runs very smooth. I'm very happy with my saw. Thanks again!
Aloha! I had similar issues this evening when changing to my resaw blade, watched your video, went back into the shop and BAM! Done, hums and resaws great, With much Aloha, Thanks for posting!
Thank you for this video! Setting up my 10-326 over the last couple of days and having the same tuning issues. Very helpful walkthrough here.
Great stuff at 3:21 I just put mine together yesterday and noticed the ticking. I noticed yours decreased some with new blade but mostly with tensioning drive belt. I'll try that tonight. Thanks!!
LOVE that tip about the diamond sharpening card! Thanks. I have the 325 model, wish I had the 326.
Was able to talk with a RIKON service tech. and following his input this is what I did. Loosened the nut at the opposite end of the cam handle and was able to now move the trunnon but not all the way. Discovered the nut and jam nut were only finger tight so adjusted them. loosened the two bolts holding the trunnon to the saw, they were not that tight. raised the 4 set screws so that the trunnon base now sets on the saw, re tightened the bolts. loosened the three screws on the steel angle scale and added shims which took care of the binding, now able to tilt the table trunnon freely. Will mount the table tomorrow and see what else I am going to have to do. So far so good.
7:17 "I want perfection". IMHO, some battles are better left unfought. I've got the same saw as you and the blade doesn't ride in the same exact place on the bottom wheel as it does on the top. From the research I've done, that's pretty common and doesn't affect the performance. Call me a coward, but I'm going to leave the lower wheel alone. With those four adjustment screws, things can go wrong pretty easily and there isn't a reset button to get back to where you started. With that said, I did like your video and found it well done and very informative. You get a Like and a subscriber. Thanks. Mark
Dude!!!! Outstanding video..... Yep same problem..... Thanks for saving me time troubleshooting so I can get to work...
Great review ,I have this model and did not get the nylon fence glide that shipped with your unit and if you look on Rikon's web site neither does it show it on their manual parts list. My on-off switch is very stiff ( off side ) For a safety point of view you think it should not be. The switch's location is also a problem for me , as its located where you have to reach around the fence and down to get to it, (poor should have located higher). Otherwise a great saw.
Still a great review even after it being 3 years old. Regarding the wheels on the base getting in the way of the cabinet door...can you just move the wheels to the other side?....Thanks
No, I looked at moving the wheels, but then they would prevent the door from opening at all. I think Rikon should look at fixing this small detail, but really the door opens adequately far and it hasn't caused me much inconvenience in the past 3 years.
Had issue with lower thrust bearing limited range of travel, would not adjust to back of 1/4” blade. Rikon support had me remove lower bearing assembly, then remove thrust bearing to expose the bearing mount cylinder to remove the bearing mount cylinder and spring from the main guide block. The spring was jammed in the cylinder. Easy fix!! Pay attention to the main guide block position when reinstalling.
Nice set up video. I had to adjust the wheels on my Rikon 10-305 to get it to track, but it's a nice little saw for the price.
I agree. The more I use the saw, the more I like it! A little messing around during initial setup was well worth the long-term performance benefits.
Hello David, thank you for the helpful video. I have the same saw, and it was quite a challenge getting it all aligned, and then one day of course I turn it on without engaging the blade tension, and out of alignment it goes. Have you or anyone reading cut wood with epoxy in it. I have tried to do that, but it seems like epoxy was the blades kryptonite. The blade is now smoking (just slightly) when it shouldn't. Most likely will have to replace the blade.
No, I haven't worked much with epoxy, but I have had the same issue with alignment. As you have also observed, the blade can randomly come out of alignment. I have especially noticed this after changing blades. I need to do a little more investigating, but I think the problem is that the top wheel doesn't always traverse the same path when tightening or loosening the blade. This results in random alignment with the bottom wheel.
@@craftsmandavid5970 On my Rikon, I find there's no way you will change from a 1/4" blade to a 3/4" blade and have the wheels remain coplanar without adjusting the bottom wheel. I can't help but suspect you had super high tension on your 1/4" blade and super low tension on the 3/4" blade to make them match up like that in your video. I.e., I think that your 3/4" blade was "still centered/coplanar", because you didn't tension it enough.
The frame of the saw bends with tension. Higher tension bends it more, esp the 14" resaw giraffe-neck version. A saw frame can't stay coplanar through big tension changes. You don't make your saw coplanar and then done. You make it coplanar to a specific tension. When you got the saw, it was probably adjusted for the blade it came with, and it should work ok within a certain range. You tuned it to the 1/4" blade at w/e tension you were running it.
With an increase in tension, the blade will track towards the front of the bottom wheel; when you decrease tension, the blade will move towards the back of the bottom wheel. To get the blade straight, top to bottom, you want to keep the blade tracking more or less in the same spot on the wheels, but it doesn't have to be perfect. Where you put the gullets doesn't mean much, other than the fact that adjusting the tracking changes the tension in and of itself. (After you get your tension where you want it, always compensate/adjust the tension if you change the tracking.) With an increase in tension, the top wheel moves to the right and towards the front of the saw. And this twists the top wheel slightly clockwise. Reverse when decreasing tension. So the cut direction also changes with tension. You will have to adjust the table CW when increasing tension, CCW when decreasing it, if you want your fence and miter slots to work properly. A bandsaw can cut straight without exactly on the right line, but the more you increase the feed rate and/or thickness, the more you have to get it on line.
Great review. I found a saw here in Europe which looks exactly same as this one - It is the RECORD POWER Sabre 350 S. Subscribed !
I just got a Rikon bandsaw and the blade tracks extremely far forward on the lower wheel, the teeth are hanging off. I’m going to try this adjustment.
I am struggling with getting my Rikon Bandsaw wheels co-planar. It seems that the upper tracking adjustment is in conflict w the small adjustments you make for the lower wheel. Appreciate you comments
great video. I've been having trouble resawing with 10-326 and your video has answered many of my questions. when you have time could you answer some questions: 1. do you use the resaw bar? 2. do yyou resharpen your blades? 3. do you have a preference for blade size and manufacture for blades.
I've received some recycled wood that's old and very dry but hard to cut. Thanks.
I have only re-sawed for a project one time since making the video. I did not use the bar, but blade drift was a problem so I think I will try it next time. For Re-sawing, use the largest blade that will fit on your saw. I bought the Timber Wolf which worked well.
Try blades from Olson. Well-priced, decent quality.
Thanks for this man. My wheels are out too.
I just purchased a 10-326. Did you use a coarse, fine or extra fine on the blade. I am getting that tink tink noise and would love to get rid of it
How's the Rikon bandsaw holding up after 3 years? Thanks
Aside from the dual voltage motor try and find a bandsaw that will rip larger than 12in. What a beast. Me likey.
i bought this bandsaw about 2 yrs ago and never used it,,i went out earlier and tried to rip a 2 inch piece of maple and it did nothing,,,what little bit it did rip vered so far off it wasnt even funny,,any suggestions,,,,,looks like im going to sell it
suggestion for the future, instead of a 'two man lifting competition' in order to place the upper section onto the lower stand, you could lay the lower stand on its side and mate the upper section, already laying on its side, to the stand. insert bolts then lift the entire bandsaw upright . . .
I’m considering getting this but I have a question if you can help me. I will primarily use this to cut logs to make bowl blanks, these may be up to 12” thick. Do you think this saw can handle that workload?
Great video. Excellent job troubleshooting. I'm curious as to what was your second choice in bandsaws. (There are no Rikon distributors in Alaska.)
Laguna was my second choice, but I saw some videos about the ceramic guides wearing out quickly which made me go with Rikon.
Great Video! What do you think about the single trunnion? Is it strong and rigid enough? Thanks
Those of us who've been playing with bandsaws for a "while" don't fall for the co-planer hog wash. Really, do people believe companies that have been in business longer than most have been alive don't know anything about the tools they manufacture?
I should qualify this with that my Powermatic's lower wheel does not adjust, like the Rikon's does. I also have never had problems with the PM, like those that JUST developed with the Rikon (until I get the beast adjusted).
As others pointed out, I run the gullet on or as much to center as is reasonably possible. Of course, with a 3/4" blade, that isn't happening. Set up like this, I get no drift.
My Rikon started throwing the belt. Checking, I found a bad bearing, though the saw didn't have ten to twelve hours of run time on it. New bearings installed, it still tosses belts, and is tracking questionably. Clearly, the lower wheel needs to be adjusted to closer center the blade back from the door. It may need a bit of left and right adjustment too.
Very nice! Would have been a good idea to see the blade weld before you flattened it down!
Put the top blade gullet in the center of wheel and that will eliminate drift. I also had to adjust my sear's bottom wheel to allow the top setting. Carters Snodgrass is best I have seen on bandsaw setup.
David Davis has a good idea: Watch the Snodgrass videos.
I just got a 10-353 and if I don't remember to engage the blade tensioner the saw doesn't turn on. Nice blade saver feature. I guess yours doesn't have that. And if you want to get more confusion about blade placement, watch the guy from Carter tools describe where the blade should be on bandsaws. Got some good tips for my new saw from this video though , thank you.
Your welcome. You know, I've never actually tried to turn on the saw with the blade de-tensioned.
I have the same saw but I am having vibrating issues.
Do you have any vibration the saw is turned off and slowing down?
Great video. I am looked at a floor model today and was hoping that I liked it but I'm not crazy about the fence, seems like a lot of unnecessary slop adjustment and fooling around with it just to get it square to the table. How do you like yours? Also I played with adjusting the guide bearings on it and they would touch the blade at the back and be open toward the gullet no matter how much i messed with them. Do your bearings ride true and square with the blade?
The problem is you can't set the wheels straight because the cabinet doesn't allow you to set a straight edge against the side of the wheels that gives you proper alignment
Good video
Hi David! Have you had to replace the bearing guides yet? Do they seem to be staying in top shape? (For me this is one of the determining factors between going with the Rikon 10-326 and Laguna 14-12)
No, I haven't had any trouble with the bearing guides yet. Though, to be fair, I'm far from a production shop.
Thanks! I won't be running a production shop either... so that's still helpful!
just to say thanks
putting one together as I watch... My trunnon is too tight, moves a tooth at a time.
Yeah, I agree. The rack and pinion could be a little smoother. Then again, I don't think I've tilted the table at all since I filmed this.
Awaiting a reply from Rikon before I proceed.
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