Sounds like you know this bandsaw inside and out. With that said, camera was too far away to see a lot of what you were doing. Please think about redo with being closer.
I just bought this bandsaw! Haven't even opened the crate yet. But when I get it setup right, i want it to cut like you cut the Cherry. Thanks for teaching us how to properly setup this bandsaw!!!
Alex is THE best instructor on Bandsaw in the world. He KNOWS it and he KNOWS how to teach us to make our bandsaw awesome and joyful. Thank Jesus for Alex's talents. For he is truly a "CUT" above. Thank you kind Sir.
This is by far the best setup video ive found for this saw. Thank you, you answered every question I had and after watching this video in the shop while dialing the saw in, i am good to go! Thank you!
Good to see you I have the green color of this saw or the old model your video has helped me many times thanks for all the information I would love to have one of those powermatics in the back of your shop
After watching you set up another bandsaw, I made adjustments on my Ridgid 14” and WOW! It is cutting better than it ever did. If I want to know anything about bandsaws, Alex is my go to source! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
Thanks Alex, I was having problem resawing with my 10-326. Going back to basics and following your guide, it now Saws dead true. I do wish the machine had a brake, and better dust collection, but over all it is a Great bandsaw. PS I attended your class in Nashville Mar 17, 2024. Great Class, you are an excellent teacher. Looking forward to Next years class. (DougB)
While putting my saw together initially, I noticed the saw to be a bit top heavy. I almost turned it over. Since I have a basement shop, I decided where I was going to put it. Then I got a screw eye bolt installed into the very top of saw and one into each floor joist overhead. Then I installed two turnbuckles connecting the three anchors. No movement, safe to use. Perfect!
I stopped by to say thank you for being the most awsome bandsaw instructer in the world today ;-) I installed and adjusted two low tear Bandsaws (most recently my Bas 261) the way you describe it and after that they work like a charm. Keep up the inspiring work ;-)
Great video. Just took your class in Woodcraft San Carlos and really great instruction. simple, straightforward with reasons why. My analytical mind appreciates this!
We just unboxed and assembled the Rikon 10-326 today. I wish I had found this video before we attached the table. Now I have to adjust the blade with the table in place. Very good video, thanks for doing it.
Hi Alex, I am mostly into hand tool woodworking (a beginner in that too) and desired to own a bandsaw but was always intimidated by this machine. I can't count how many times I have watched your instructional videos and that has given me a lot of confidence and knowledge to invest on one(this rikon model mainly because I got it on a sale). It seems so much unfair that I can only put a single like on this video considering the number of times I have watched it!!
I have this saw. I purchased a Carter Stabilizer. Do you have a video setting up this saw with the Stabilizer? Do you use the bottom guides? Thanks 27:18
Alex, I don't see a video on using the guide for the 1/4, 3/16 or 1/8 blades for this saw. I was looking at the website and couldn't find one. You mentioned there was going to be the additional video. So I am wondering if there is one of those guides for this blade?
I have that saw and love it, I wish I thought to remove the table before tuning the first time. And I can wait to use that table cit trick to check table level.
@Bandsaw Life How do you make sure the fence sits flat on the table? From front to back Great video, just picked up this saw. Nice to have a legend doing a setup video on my exact bandsaw !!!
I have this saw. I watched your previous set-up video often and I love having a set-up specifically for this saw. I am wondering if you have made/posted the video discussing installation and set-up of the Carter small blade guide you mentioned at the end of this video? I am having difficulty setting up.
Thanks for this video. It’s great and I have followed your advice. I have the Rikon 324TG and installed a 3/16” blade. I find it about impossible to get the blade where you suggest on the wheel. I can’t adjust the bottom bearings back far enough. The bearing assembly hits the table adjustment bolt. I have cut some things out with the blade riding forward on the wheels. It seems to work, but I wonder if I am hurting anything, shorting the blade life possibly .. thoughts? The saw says it can handle down to 1/8”. Thanks.
I am having trouble moving the lower guides back far enough that the bearings are not rubbing the teeth on the blade. I have it moved as far back as it will go. Maybe the lower wheel needs adjusted using the 4 bolts that adjust the shaft?
Thanks and I had to adjust it when first getting the saw. Now that I have put the Tool-Less guide upgrade on it there just does not seem to be enough room to move them back far enough. Ordered new tires to see if that might help.
I see that, surprisingly, you used only a 3/8” 3 TPI blade to resaw a big cherry board. I would’ve thought you would need a 3/4” blade to perform such an accurate resaw, or at least a 1/2’ blade. Why do I always see much wider blades used to perform a brilliant resaw as you did here? Is 3/8” the optimal width blade for this particular saw? Never mind, I just watched your video on how to select a bandsaw blade. Answered all my questions. Thank you, Alex!
Excellent video, although the blade tension check part could have been videographed a bit better. So. I partially dismantled the 10-326 that I've had for a couple of years to do the tweaks mentioned here. I'm a wood turner and don't use my bandsaw a whole lot. Other than adjusting the top and bottom roller guides now and then and keeping the unit clean, I hadn't done a deep dive. I removed the table with the blade still on. Upon close inspection, I found that the factory-installed roller guide assemblies (top and bottom) were fairly whomperjawed. Easy fix. The lesson I learned from this is: just because your saw arrives pretty much assembled, it's worth the time to break it down to check for things that might need adjustment. P.S. Getting the table back on the saw by yourself is not particularly fun or easy. 😬
Thanks for the video. I have this saw and I have a problem with the fence. Whenever I position the fence, then lock it down, the fence moves on the round bar by up 1/32” It seems to move a different amount based on how much force I use to tighten the handle. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
Does the Table Leveling Plate get forced into the table split? I can't figure out how to fit it. Diameter of the pin is larger than the split in the table top.
Thanks for this, very helpful. I got stuck - after putting the table back on and using FAST bars, I still have a 1/8" gap between distances and the table attachment holes don't allow me to compensate for the lack of squareness??
Best to get it as far back as possible with out overhanging the blade. I would never use anything but a 3/8” greenwood blade by Carter Products for general purpose and resaw for this saw. 3/4” is a waste in my opinion
@@bandsawlife2660 thanks, greatly appreciate the info. You are first person to give me a valid answer. 3/8”, have the wheel size, so gullet can ride in center.
@@Vancleave79 The specs on the saw saw it will handle a blade up to 3/4”. I don’t know how if the gullet is supported to be in the middle of the wheel.
Great video Alex. Any tips on getting the fence perpendicular to the table? I have to angle the fence rail down on the right to get it square, it works but just don't look right. The closer you get to the blade, the tighter it gets to the table. Thanks!
How do you make sure the fence sits flat on the table? From front to back Great video, just picked up this saw. Nice to have a legend doing a setup video on my exact bandsaw !!!
Refer to the online manual www.rikontools.com/manuals/10-326.pdf See page 38 of 44. Look at the drawing Fence Assembly Sheet F. Make sure you have part 23 Nylon Plate installed with set screw 25 installed on the bottom of the fence at the end opposite the Fence Carrier 9. If you reverse the fence, you have to move the Nylon Plate 23 to keep it on the end opposite the Fence Carrier 9. See the fence adjustment instructions on page 20 of 44.
Alex, this video was perfect for me. Thank you! With your help I just set up my new Rikon 10-326, but I've come up with a question. Wht do you do to level the table from front to back?
There are set screws next to bolts that hold down the trunnion. Hard to access but willing be able to square blade front to back. Rikons manual details it.
Great video. i have watched a few of yours. two dumb questions. It would seem to me that every time you change blade width you need to reset the thrust bearing? and does the blade need to be 90 degs to the table and the back of the blade in ( top to bottom of the cut0? Thanks
Hi Alex, I have a 5/8 blade installed on the UK version of this bandsaw. If I position the deepest part of the gullet to the center of the wheel, then the back of the blade will hang unsupported from the back of the wheel. How to proceed in that situation? Should I go no further than the back of the blade being aligned with the back of the wheel, even though the deepest part of the gullet will be slightly in the front of the centerline?
Alex love the content of your videos, thought they were recorded a while ago, but noticed some were shot recently this year. I’m an “OCD” part time sound engineer/reinforcer and have notice distortion, crackling or clipping from your boom mic. What type of microphone, transmitter body pack and remote receiver system are you using? You could have a “gain structure” issue at the belt/body pack itself, or the receiver unit and if using a small desk at the gain. Please contact me if I can advise.
Agreed. My money goes on the recording level of his recorder was set too high. If his recorder has an auto gain feature I would recommend that he uses it in the future.
The issue you mentioned about adjusting the thrust on the top wheel, where you untensioned and then tensioned it again, what is actually the issue? Can it be fixed? Does Rikon know? FYI, if you do read this, I was at the session you taught tonight at Knoxville Woodcraft, I won the apron.
im pretty sure every rikon saw is like that. I have this exact saw and that is pretty annoying. all research before purchase, I thought I would love it more then I do.
Thanks for the video. I have a 10" Rikon so a lot of what is here will also apply to the smaller saw. Question though, I am installing a 1/8" blade and it seems centred on the top but moves to the front of the wheel on the lower. What adjustments should be made?
Thank you so much for your training!!! You make it simple to understand. I have a Rikon 10-305 and am have a lot of issues with the tracking. I have it close to where it should be, and adjust the tracking just a hair it the blade will move all the way to the front or back until it almost comes off the wheel. Could it be that the top wheel is too loose. I know that when there isn't any tension on it, the wheel will wobble some. But, how much wobble is OK and when is it too much?
Hi Alex I have just fully restored a delta 14' band saw and have replaced the tires on the wheels with the Carter Urethane type. The inside width of the wheel is 1 inch and the tires are only 7/8ths wide. I don't understand how to center my bandsaw blade in the middle bevel of the wheel if the tire is either pushed fully to the front or to the rear of the wheel. These urethane tires don't fit the full 1' width of the wheel so how can I center the blade on the middle bevel so it doesn't run off. Could you explain what I am doing wrong with some detail please.
Push the urethane tire forward, urethane can spread as it heats up so that’s why Carter makes them just a bit narrow. If you wheel has a 1” gap then the deepest part of the gullet should be at the 1/2” mark. Hope this helps
I just got this saw yesterday and have been assembling it today. I'm having an issue with squaring the table to the blade. I can get it to where it is square, but tightening the bolts seems to cause it to shift significantly (as much as 1/4 inch). Is there a trick to avoiding this issue?
Thanks Alex for all the great information you share. Any tips for fence adjustments on my PM1500? Powermatic seems to be lacking in that department. I need to adjust my table every time I change the blade.
Thanks Alex….those don’t seem to get me enough adjustment. I think I have an issue with the blades tooth set which is causing such a drift problem. Appreciate all the great information you share!
I was considering the pmbs cs 14, but the riser block not installed at the factory is a problem for me. Looks like the rikon is ready to resaw max capacity from the factory. If i buy rikon bandsaw, i probably will buy a rikon dust collector too. My shopping list did have the pm turbo cone, the pmbs cs14 and a jet oscillating dpinfle sander. Powermatic and jet might not get my money for my current plans. I really like the ease if taking the powermatic table off and the rikon looks more difficult
I have just purchased this bandsaw and the oily grease on the cast iron table I am going to have to remove, do you have an answer for me on what should I use?
Great video; anyone have any advice for how to adjust the table locking lever? Mine came pre-assembled from woodcraft, and unfortunately it doesn't fully lock, allowing the table to move out of square if sawing heavy items.
Great video. My brand new Rikon is perfectly tuned up right and left, but there is no adjustment for front to back. The saw is out a good 1/8" over 13". Nothing is pushing the blade forward. The only solution I see is to shim between the trunnion and the table to square it up. Any thoughts?
The round rail the fence rides on. How does it mount so your fence sets flat on the table and I could not see where you pushed to test the tension on the blade. I just bought the same bandsaw for myself and am as green at this as could be.
Hi Alex, Thank you for all the nice videos explaining band saw setup! It’s a great help when you are new to band saws. I wanted to use your setup method with the deepest part of the gullet at the center of the wheel. The problem is that my 12” Metabo BAS 318 have wheels that are just under one inch wide and rubber tires less than ¾ inch wide. Putting a ½ inch wide blade (2240-13-0,5-4T, supplied with the saw) with gullet centered make the blade go to the edge or even slightly outside of the rubber on the back side. - Is this safe or is it a risk that the blade will spin off? - Is there a max width of blade (gullet centered) that you can use on a narrow wheel? - Do you have any advice or rule of thumb here? Regards/Mike from Stockholm, Sweden
Never overhang the blade always run it so the back edge is even with the edge of the tire. The largest blade you should use is a 5/8 inch so that the deepest part of the gullets in the center, but the back edge is even with the back edge of the wheel
Thank you so much for the fast response! I have ordered some 3/8 blades today and will see if they work better than the ½ “ I have today. I will also try to move my ½” blades back as much as possible but staying on the rubber surface.@@bandsawlife2660
Good video. Does stopping the blade with a piece of wood like you did dull or damage the blade at all? It must not or you wouldn't do it. I thought it would when I have seen others do it.....maybe just the noise is terrible. Thanks
Hey Alex! I bought this saw new in 2019 and I am having trouble adjusting the saw like you described! When I track the blade on the upper wheel like you advised, the blade on the lower wheel is tracking on the back edge of the lower wheel and when I try to adjust the upper and lower guides, I can’t get the bearings to the back edge of the gullets of the blades! They barely will go back past the front of the teeth! There’s a bolt on the cabinet that the lower carriage hits when I try to adjust it farther back! Do I need to adjust the lower wheel! Didn’t want to mess with that because I thought it was set at the factory!
Thanks very much for the video, I have watched all of them on your channel and find them very informative. I have a Canwood Model CV-305 14 inch I have been trying to get it tuned and have been have some success. The problem that I am having is adjusting the Thrust Bearing. When I raise and lower the blade guard, there is a gap of approx 1/16 over a span of 4” So when I raise and lower the guard, it will throw off the adjustment on the bearing. Do you have any suggestions on how to correct this issue?
I have a General International 90-270M1. I got it in a deal with a 5hp Delta Unisaw, Beisemeyer fence system, Rikon 60-200 dust collector and a couple delta jigs. I think the General bandsaw was in the deal just to get it out of the shop because it turns out the table is out of level parallel to the blade by about 5/8 inch, end to end. Even the tilt trunnion is not level with the base so I figure the machine may have fallen over at some point and the guy just wanted it hauled away. I didn't notice until later and am wondering if that trunnion can be bent back somehow. I don't expect so and I really appreciate your videos, so I am looking at that Rikon 14". Long story, but what do you think?
I've learned a lot watching your videos Alex, thank you. I have a Porter Cable 14" that I just put a riser block in and am interested in upgrading the guides as it came with blocks for the sides and the rear bearing is facing perpendicular to the blade instead of inline like the carter ones. Since there are no Porter Cable specific pieces on the Carter website, do you know which parts would fit the PC bandsaw? Thanks.
Can you help me? I have the Rikon 10-324 and the blade runs perfectly straight when viewed from the front, but when viewed from the right side, the blade oscillates front to back about 1/8" with each revolution. What is out of adjustment? Thank you!
Alex. I have a Delta shopmaster that vibrates at different times when using. What would you suggest checking first. I know it's not a quality saw. Maybe it's just the way it is. I enjoyed your videos very much. Thank you for your time. Regards Randall
I think this video came out about a month or two after I bought this saw. I tried resigning for the first time last night, and was a little disappointed in the results. It was through 7 1/2 inch walnut, and the blade curved inside the board so one of the boards had a hump and the other had a valley. Is that because I didn’t have a tension tight enough? I had a three-quarter inch four tooth per inch blade in it.
The tension was too low. I also got the size blade you recommended, and tuned it up. It cuts walnut like butter! This will eliminate a lot of planer passes in getting my rough stock down to final thickness. Thanks!
Alex I have the RIKON 14" Deluxe Bandsaw - 1-3/4 HP Model 10-326. I just watched you set up. I’m getting a sticky sound by the black idler pulley that the belt rides on. Any ideas. Thanks Marty Pyeatt
One of the best lesson videos I've ever seen. I just this band saw used and it came with a new 3/4" blade. Do I centre the whole blade on the wheel? Or get the deepest part of the gullet on the centre? I also had to switch the drive belt back to high speed. I tried to cut a 3/4" piece of oak and it was cutting extremely slow. I'll check my belt tension, and blade tension again. If that's wrong it has to be a complete shit blade or something is wrong with the motor or belt! Any ideas? It sure dulled my excitement to see this thing cut like sh!t on my first try!
It should always be in the highest setting for wood the lower setting is for non-ferrous metal. With a three-quarter inch blade you can only put it as far back as the back edge cannot overhang the back of the wheel, but this should still give you enough tension at the tooth to be able to re-saw good and straight.
Alex I’m buying my first bandsaw what would be better the rikon 10-326 or should I go with a jet I do a lot of co2 laser work and plan on doing a lot of resaw work to get my boards down thin enough to cut with the laser which saw would you recommend ?
Alex, I have the predecessor to this model, the 10-325. I have an issue that I have to readjust all of the bearings every time I adjust the cutting height of the guide post due to that forward/backward movement when you tighten the locking knob that you mention. Any suggestions to mitigate that?
Hi Alex, great video, by far the best one out there!. I watched it several times prior to the delivery of my 10-326 audit helped tremendously with the setup process. I installed a ¼" blade to cut some tight radius corners and it worked perfectly. The next day I noticed a high pitch squeal when the saw starts up. I only lasts for a second or two. I've rechecked all of the settings and everything looks good. Any idea what might be causing it?
@@bandsawlife2660 Alex, that fix the problem. I signed up for your seminar at Woodcraft in Raleigh in February. I'm looking forward to learning more about bandsaws from the expert!
What are the odds, I have a Rikon that's basically the same model you're using and my first shot at resaw will be 12" cherry. Great videos, changed the way I tune my bandsaws forever. Mine came with a resaw bar, do you like these or should I just use the fence as you did and is there an application for the resaw bar? Thank you.
Great video, thanks Alex! Can I ask you two questions? I have the 324 model (one step down from this). Recently when using my 3/16” 4tpi skip tooth blade for a bandsaw box, I was hearing a weird sound during cutting. I would describe it as wind howling or like a spooky ghost sound you hear at Halloween. I couldn’t figure out what that was, but I broke the blade at one point, tried a new one, and heard it again. I was sawing a box of mostly cherry with a Purple Heart accent. I’ve also really struggled with my 3/16” blade’s tracking. It will NOT sit still on the wheel unless it’s absolutely perfectly set. Any tips for that? Thanks again!
The sound your hearing is a bearing turning at full speed occasionally. One of them need to be repacked or replaced. If you don’t use a Blade stabilizer for blades 1/4” or smaller you’re not getting the most out of your blades or saw.
@@bandsawlife2660 thanks, I’ll check that out! I thought the thrust bearing should be turning at all times during cuts (anytime pressure is applied). Are you’re saying there’s a balance between simply turning and turning at full speed, and I just need to back it off slightly so there’s not as much direct contact on the bearing during cutting?
@@bandsawlife2660 I've been reading up about bearings and watched your how-to video on repacking, and I think I misunderstood what you were saying. Since the thrust bearing should be spinning during cuts, it wouldn't matter if it's spinning at full RPM or not right? So maybe you're saying increased FRICTION from a poor bearing is causing the sound, and exacerbated when the bearing is trying to spin at full speed? And that replacing or repacking is all I need to do. Do I have that right? Thanks again Alex!
@@MorrMedia1 when sawdust dries out the grease and the ball bearings ride on a dry surface this creates space which cause the bearing to vibrate at a certain speed and that is the noise being heard.
Great video, too bad there were no close-ups showing the bearing adjustments specifically the side bearings. At any rate, could you also comment on the proper tension of the drive wheel pulley?
I always suggest opening the door and checking tension on the left side by laying your finger on the frame so you have a consistent distance from the wheel. Tap as hard as you can, no more than a 1/4” of movement
Hey what would be the best blade for scroll sawing on my rikon 10-326 band saw and do I need a different guide on it I’m just starting out on a band saw so new to the hobby
Hello Mr. Alex. I am new to working with these tools. My desire is to make my own bowl blanks for turning. Would you recommend this saw for beginners ? Thank you
I’ve got the rikon 10-324.i’m assuming that it’s about the same.i have had problems with breakage of blades,set mine from your other video.i also am running the Kreg fence system.the only thing i don’t like about it is when you chance a blade,you have to take off the entire fence system.i bought the cheaper set of bearings,couldn’t afford the ones that are on the 10-326,which i really wanted.any feedback back?
I’m in the market for a new bandsaw upgrade from a craftsman 12 inch. I’ve watched all your videos on Rikon 10-326 the Jet 14SFX and the Laguna 14/12. Which of these three would you recommend? Thanks, I’m sure I’m not the only one wandering.
After watching your video again on the jet I decided to buy it. I’ve tried to call laguna for a week no answer and no call back and that was a big factor no service
@@bandsawlife2660 The only thing to keep in mind is that Jet Customer Service should be called Jet Customer Disservice. I've never had issue with Rikon or Laguna CS but Jet. . . .well that's another story.
I have this saw and loved the video but I would have liked some closeups of the blade tracking and guide adjustments.
Was in the comments section to say the exact same thing
Sounds like you know this bandsaw inside and out. With that said, camera was too far away to see a lot of what you were doing. Please think about redo with being closer.
Much appreciated your video. Not only did you instruct what to do but, even more importantly, "why". Golden. Thank you!
Thanks for doing this one, Alex. It’s nice to get a lesson from the master himself about the equipment that I own & operate.👏🏼🙌🏼👏🏼
Phenomenal info being passed along here, thank you Alex
I just bought this bandsaw! Haven't even opened the crate yet. But when I get it setup right, i want it to cut like you cut the Cherry. Thanks for teaching us how to properly setup this bandsaw!!!
Well, last weekend I took the Rikon Bandsaw to my property and put it together and set it up using your directions...It cut so smooth. I love it!!!
Alex is THE best instructor on Bandsaw in the world. He KNOWS it and he KNOWS how to teach us to make our bandsaw awesome and joyful. Thank Jesus for Alex's talents. For he is truly a "CUT" above. Thank you kind Sir.
This is by far the best setup video ive found for this saw. Thank you, you answered every question I had and after watching this video in the shop while dialing the saw in, i am good to go! Thank you!
Good to see you I have the green color of this saw or the old model your video has helped me many times thanks for all the information I would love to have one of those powermatics in the back of your shop
Thanks for the video. I have the 10-326 and your video is a nice refresher on setup. Added to my favorites on youtube.
Spot on Alex, you've been doing a lot of these.
I just assembled this saw today. I'll watch this video a couple times while I set it up properly to resaw some canarywood soon.
Thank you so much. You deserve all the respect you have earned.
After watching you set up another bandsaw, I made adjustments on my Ridgid 14” and WOW! It is cutting better than it ever did. If I want to know anything about bandsaws, Alex is my go to source! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
Thanks Alex, I was having problem resawing with my 10-326. Going back to basics and following your guide, it now Saws dead true. I do wish the machine had a brake, and better dust collection, but over all it is a Great bandsaw. PS I attended your class in Nashville Mar 17, 2024. Great Class, you are an excellent teacher. Looking forward to Next years class. (DougB)
While putting my saw together initially, I noticed the saw to be a bit top heavy. I almost turned it over. Since I have a basement shop, I decided where I was going to put it. Then I got a screw eye bolt installed into the very top of saw and one into each floor joist overhead. Then I installed two turnbuckles connecting the three anchors. No movement, safe to use. Perfect!
I stopped by to say thank you for being the most awsome bandsaw instructer in the world today ;-) I installed and adjusted two low tear Bandsaws (most recently my Bas 261) the way you describe it and after that they work like a charm. Keep up the inspiring work ;-)
Thank you
Set up my new Rikon today. This and other videos have helped make the job much easier. Thanks
Great video. Just took your class in Woodcraft San Carlos and really great instruction. simple, straightforward with reasons why. My analytical mind appreciates this!
I have this saw being delivered next week. Great video on set up and tips. Thanks much!!!!
Can't believe how much I learned from this video. Thanks. Going to set up my Rikon now.
Great video with tips and tricks….which I needed for my 325 Rikon. Thanks Alex!!!
Really detailed information! Will be watching your videos while waiting for my Laguna to be shipped.
i found this extremely informative and cannot wait to break mine in! thank you
This vid is so great !!! literally a game changer !!!thank you !!
We just unboxed and assembled the Rikon 10-326 today. I wish I had found this video before we attached the table. Now I have to adjust the blade with the table in place. Very good video, thanks for doing it.
Thanks for watching
Superb. That saw looks exactly like my Record Power sabre 350 here in the UK.
Hi Alex, I am mostly into hand tool woodworking (a beginner in that too) and desired to own a bandsaw but was always intimidated by this machine. I can't count how many times I have watched your instructional videos and that has given me a lot of confidence and knowledge to invest on one(this rikon model mainly because I got it on a sale). It seems so much unfair that I can only put a single like on this video considering the number of times I have watched it!!
Thank you very much for the support
I have this saw. I purchased a Carter Stabilizer. Do you have a video setting up this saw with the Stabilizer? Do you use the bottom guides? Thanks 27:18
Thanks for the info good job 😊
Great video Alex. I have the 10-325 and I am thinking that the set up is the same. Look forward to seeing you in Michigan
Alex! You’re my savior!
Lol
Alex, I don't see a video on using the guide for the 1/4, 3/16 or 1/8 blades for this saw. I was looking at the website and couldn't find one. You mentioned there was going to be the additional video. So I am wondering if there is one of those guides for this blade?
I have that saw and love it, I wish I thought to remove the table before tuning the first time. And I can wait to use that table cit trick to check table level.
When not using the saw is it best to relieve the tension on the blade?
SWEET CUT! That’s what I’m hoping my saw will do once I get that Carter blade installed.
Dang. Great video. And it matches my bandsaw so it was extra helpful. Going to check everything tonight.
@Bandsaw Life How do you make sure the fence sits flat on the table? From front to back
Great video, just picked up this saw. Nice to have a legend doing a setup video on my exact bandsaw !!!
The bolts that hold the front rail on should have some play.
I am shopping for a 14 inch bandsaw. The ease of removing and reinstalling the table is one of my concerns. Thanks for this video.
When will you release a video on the stabilizer for the Rikon 10-326? Great video on the setup and operation of the Rikon 10-326
It’s available
www.carterproducts.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Rik2
I have this saw. I watched your previous set-up video often and I love having a set-up specifically for this saw. I am wondering if you have made/posted the video discussing installation and set-up of the Carter small blade guide you mentioned at the end of this video? I am having difficulty setting up.
Thanks for this video. It’s great and I have followed your advice. I have the Rikon 324TG and installed a 3/16” blade. I find it about impossible to get the blade where you suggest on the wheel. I can’t adjust the bottom bearings back far enough. The bearing assembly hits the table adjustment bolt. I have cut some things out with the blade riding forward on the wheels. It seems to work, but I wonder if I am hurting anything, shorting the blade life possibly .. thoughts? The saw says it can handle down to 1/8”. Thanks.
I am having trouble moving the lower guides back far enough that the bearings are not rubbing the teeth on the blade. I have it moved as far back as it will go.
Maybe the lower wheel needs adjusted using the 4 bolts that adjust the shaft?
Yes, please consult the manual or the manufacturer and tiny tiny adjustments
Thanks and I had to adjust it when first getting the saw. Now that I have put the Tool-Less guide upgrade on it there just does not seem to be enough room to move them back far enough. Ordered new tires to see if that might help.
I see that, surprisingly, you used only a 3/8” 3 TPI blade to resaw a big cherry board. I would’ve thought you would need a 3/4” blade to perform such an accurate resaw, or at least a 1/2’ blade. Why do I always see much wider blades used to perform a brilliant resaw as you did here? Is 3/8” the optimal width blade for this particular saw? Never mind, I just watched your video on how to select a bandsaw blade. Answered all my questions. Thank you, Alex!
Excellent video, although the blade tension check part could have been videographed a bit better.
So. I partially dismantled the 10-326 that I've had for a couple of years to do the tweaks mentioned here. I'm a wood turner and don't use my bandsaw a whole lot. Other than adjusting the top and bottom roller guides now and then and keeping the unit clean, I hadn't done a deep dive. I removed the table with the blade still on. Upon close inspection, I found that the factory-installed roller guide assemblies (top and bottom) were fairly whomperjawed. Easy fix. The lesson I learned from this is: just because your saw arrives pretty much assembled, it's worth the time to break it down to check for things that might need adjustment.
P.S. Getting the table back on the saw by yourself is not particularly fun or easy. 😬
Thanks for the video. I have this saw and I have a problem with the fence. Whenever I position the fence, then lock it down, the fence moves on the round bar by up 1/32” It seems to move a different amount based on how much force I use to tighten the handle. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
Best advice I can give you is get it close and snug the handle on the left then use the cam to bring the fence in line
Does the Table Leveling Plate get forced into the table split? I can't figure out how to fit it. Diameter of the pin is larger than the split in the table top.
The table may be warped enough that you may need to pull up or down on one side of the split to start the pin
Thanks for this, very helpful. I got stuck - after putting the table back on and using FAST bars, I still have a 1/8" gap between distances and the table attachment holes don't allow me to compensate for the lack of squareness??
Loosen the bolts on the table, adjust the table, and then re-tighten the bolts
@@bandsawlife2660 I tried that but you can only adjust the table a few degrees, not enough to align the slots to the blade.
I have a 3/4” resaw blade. Does the gullet still sit in the center of the wheel? The back of the blade would hang off the back of the wheel.
Best to get it as far back as possible with out overhanging the blade. I would never use anything but a 3/8” greenwood blade by Carter Products for general purpose and resaw for this saw. 3/4” is a waste in my opinion
@@bandsawlife2660 thanks, greatly appreciate the info. You are first person to give me a valid answer. 3/8”, have the wheel size, so gullet can ride in center.
I thought it was funny Rikon ships it with a 5/8” blade. That blade seems way too wide for the wheels. Thanks for being the bandsaw goat!
@@Vancleave79 The specs on the saw saw it will handle a blade up to 3/4”. I don’t know how if the gullet is supported to be in the middle of the wheel.
Where can purchase the gauge that you used to make sure the table and blade are square.
Great video Alex.
Any tips on getting the fence perpendicular to the table? I have to angle the fence rail down on the right to get it square, it works but just don't look right. The closer you get to the blade, the tighter it gets to the table.
Thanks!
The fast or similar will tell you for sure. Best to ask Rikon for tips on their fence.
How do you make sure the fence sits flat on the table? From front to back
Great video, just picked up this saw. Nice to have a legend doing a setup video on my exact bandsaw !!!
Refer to the online manual www.rikontools.com/manuals/10-326.pdf See page 38 of 44. Look at the drawing Fence Assembly Sheet F. Make sure you have part 23 Nylon Plate installed with set screw 25 installed on the bottom of the fence at the end opposite the Fence Carrier 9. If you reverse the fence, you have to move the Nylon Plate 23 to keep it on the end opposite the Fence Carrier 9. See the fence adjustment instructions on page 20 of 44.
@@jerrykearns6344 I’m missing that nylon plate, part # 23. Never came with my saw or i Missed it. Thank you!!!! That would certainly help
Alex, this video was perfect for me. Thank you! With your help I just set up my new Rikon 10-326, but I've come up with a question. Wht do you do to level the table from front to back?
There are set screws next to bolts that hold down the trunnion. Hard to access but willing be able to square blade front to back. Rikons manual details it.
Great video. i have watched a few of yours. two dumb questions. It would seem to me that every time you change blade width you need to reset the thrust bearing? and does the blade need to be 90 degs to the table and the back of the blade in ( top to bottom of the cut0?
Thanks
Hi Alex, I have a 5/8 blade installed on the UK version of this bandsaw. If I position the deepest part of the gullet to the center of the wheel, then the back of the blade will hang unsupported from the back of the wheel. How to proceed in that situation? Should I go no further than the back of the blade being aligned with the back of the wheel, even though the deepest part of the gullet will be slightly in the front of the centerline?
Should be fine just try to run the blade as far back as you can.
Alex love the content of your videos, thought they were recorded a while ago, but noticed some were shot recently this year. I’m an “OCD” part time sound engineer/reinforcer and have notice distortion, crackling or clipping from your boom mic. What type of microphone, transmitter body pack and remote receiver system are you using? You could have a “gain structure” issue at the belt/body pack itself, or the receiver unit and if using a small desk at the gain. Please contact me if I can advise.
Agreed. My money goes on the recording level of his recorder was set too high. If his recorder has an auto gain feature I would recommend that he uses it in the future.
The issue you mentioned about adjusting the thrust on the top wheel, where you untensioned and then tensioned it again, what is actually the issue? Can it be fixed? Does Rikon know? FYI, if you do read this, I was at the session you taught tonight at Knoxville Woodcraft, I won the apron.
Just a bad pivot point.
im pretty sure every rikon saw is like that. I have this exact saw and that is pretty annoying. all research before purchase, I thought I would love it more then I do.
It’s a issue of where the pivot point is. It’s to low. It can’t be fixed, it’s a manufactured issue, sorry. Thanks for coming to the seminar
Thanks for the video. I have a 10" Rikon so a lot of what is here will also apply to the smaller saw. Question though, I am installing a 1/8" blade and it seems centred on the top but moves to the front of the wheel on the lower. What adjustments should be made?
Actually none. The blade should always be forward on the bottom wheel. It’s set that way from the factory
@@bandsawlife2660 Thanks.
Thank you so much for your training!!! You make it simple to understand. I have a Rikon 10-305 and am have a lot of issues with the tracking. I have it close to where it should be, and adjust the tracking just a hair it the blade will move all the way to the front or back until it almost comes off the wheel. Could it be that the top wheel is too loose. I know that when there isn't any tension on it, the wheel will wobble some. But, how much wobble is OK and when is it too much?
Take the tension off and reapply the tension whenever you adjust the tracking and it will move properly.
Hi Alex I have just fully restored a delta 14' band saw and have replaced the tires on the wheels with the Carter Urethane type. The inside width of the wheel is 1 inch and the tires are only 7/8ths wide. I don't understand how to center my bandsaw blade in the middle bevel of the wheel if the tire is either pushed fully to the front or to the rear of the wheel. These urethane tires don't fit the full 1' width of the wheel so how can I center the blade on the middle bevel so it doesn't run off. Could you explain what I am doing wrong with some detail please.
Push the urethane tire forward, urethane can spread as it heats up so that’s why Carter makes them just a bit narrow. If you wheel has a 1” gap then the deepest part of the gullet should be at the 1/2” mark. Hope this helps
@@bandsawlife2660 Thanks for the info Alex, very much appreciated.
I just got this saw yesterday and have been assembling it today. I'm having an issue with squaring the table to the blade. I can get it to where it is square, but tightening the bolts seems to cause it to shift significantly (as much as 1/4 inch). Is there a trick to avoiding this issue?
take the lock washer off of one side and tighten it. then tighten the other side. once its tight replace the lock washer and tighten
@@bandsawlife2660 Thanks for the information. I'll try this today.
What is the difference between the 10-326 and the 10-325. I have the 325 model?
Thanks Alex for all the great information you share. Any tips for fence adjustments on my PM1500? Powermatic seems to be lacking in that department. I need to adjust my table every time I change the blade.
There are two Allen screws on the front edge of the fence rail that are adjustable
Thanks Alex….those don’t seem to get me enough adjustment. I think I have an issue with the blades tooth set which is causing such a drift problem. Appreciate all the great information you share!
I was considering the pmbs cs 14, but the riser block not installed at the factory is a problem for me. Looks like the rikon is ready to resaw max capacity from the factory. If i buy rikon bandsaw, i probably will buy a rikon dust collector too. My shopping list did have the pm turbo cone, the pmbs cs14 and a jet oscillating dpinfle sander. Powermatic and jet might not get my money for my current plans. I really like the ease if taking the powermatic table off and the rikon looks more difficult
So by setting it up this way, you can keep your fence straight to the miter slot and not have to adjust for drift then?
As long as your table is square to the blade.
I have just purchased this bandsaw and the oily grease on the cast iron table I am going to have to remove, do you have an answer for me on what should I use?
Great video; anyone have any advice for how to adjust the table locking lever? Mine came pre-assembled from woodcraft, and unfortunately it doesn't fully lock, allowing the table to move out of square if sawing heavy items.
Give Rikon a call, they have great customer service. 877-884-5167
Don’t be a bitch and just tighten her down
Great video. My brand new Rikon is perfectly tuned up right and left, but there is no adjustment for front to back. The saw is out a good 1/8" over 13". Nothing is pushing the blade forward. The only solution I see is to shim between the trunnion and the table to square it up. Any thoughts?
I have the same saw and problem. I put a thin washer on two of the points where the trunions attach and that squared it up.
Great video
Thanks brother
What is the difference between the 25
The round rail the fence rides on. How does it mount so your fence sets flat on the table and I could not see where you pushed to test the tension on the blade. I just bought the same bandsaw for myself and am as green at this as could be.
Adjust the rail itself
Hi Alex,
Thank you for all the nice videos explaining band saw setup! It’s a great help when you are new to band saws.
I wanted to use your setup method with the deepest part of the gullet at the center of the wheel. The problem is that my 12” Metabo BAS 318 have wheels that are just under one inch wide and rubber tires less than ¾ inch wide. Putting a ½ inch wide blade (2240-13-0,5-4T, supplied with the saw) with gullet centered make the blade go to the edge or even slightly outside of the rubber on the back side.
- Is this safe or is it a risk that the blade will spin off?
- Is there a max width of blade (gullet centered) that you can use on a narrow wheel?
- Do you have any advice or rule of thumb here?
Regards/Mike from Stockholm, Sweden
Never overhang the blade always run it so the back edge is even with the edge of the tire. The largest blade you should use is a 5/8 inch so that the deepest part of the gullets in the center, but the back edge is even with the back edge of the wheel
Thank you so much for the fast response! I have ordered some 3/8 blades today and will see if they work better than the ½ “ I have today. I will also try to move my ½” blades back as much as possible but staying on the rubber surface.@@bandsawlife2660
Good video. Does stopping the blade with a piece of wood like you did dull or damage the blade at all? It must not or you wouldn't do it. I thought it would when I have seen others do it.....maybe just the noise is terrible. Thanks
No harm at all
I need a rip fence for a Delta 14 28 400 bandsaw. Any recommendations?
Hey Alex! I bought this saw new in 2019 and I am having trouble adjusting the saw like you described! When I track the blade on the upper wheel like you advised, the blade on the lower wheel is tracking on the back edge of the lower wheel and when I try to adjust the upper and lower guides, I can’t get the bearings to the back edge of the gullets of the blades! They barely will go back past the front of the teeth! There’s a bolt on the cabinet that the lower carriage hits when I try to adjust it farther back! Do I need to adjust the lower wheel! Didn’t want to mess with that because I thought it was set at the factory!
@@richardwilson9560 message me your number and I’ll try to call you tomorrow
Thanks! I don’t see your email address to message you!
@@richardwilson9560 hugedolphinfan@yahoo.com
Thanks very much for the video, I have watched all of them on your channel and find them very informative.
I have a Canwood Model CV-305 14 inch
I have been trying to get it tuned and have been have some success.
The problem that I am having is adjusting the Thrust Bearing.
When I raise and lower the blade guard, there is a gap of approx 1/16 over a span of 4”
So when I raise and lower the guard, it will throw off the adjustment on the bearing.
Do you have any suggestions on how to correct this issue?
This is a common problem. You will need to contact the manufacturer on how to adjust the saw. Sorry I can’t help you more.
I have a General International 90-270M1. I got it in a deal with a 5hp Delta Unisaw, Beisemeyer fence system, Rikon 60-200 dust collector and a couple delta jigs. I think the General bandsaw was in the deal just to get it out of the shop because it turns out the table is out of level parallel to the blade by about 5/8 inch, end to end. Even the tilt trunnion is not level with the base so I figure the machine may have fallen over at some point and the guy just wanted it hauled away. I didn't notice until later and am wondering if that trunnion can be bent back somehow. I don't expect so and I really appreciate your videos, so I am looking at that Rikon 14". Long story, but what do you think?
Send me some pics of what your talking about to Bandsawlife@yahoo.Com and I’ll see if I can help you.
I just bought a Rikon. Look forward to better cutting compared to the lousy King saw I originally purchased.
Best video ever
Did you ever make a video on the Shopsmith 11 inch bandsaw?
I've learned a lot watching your videos Alex, thank you. I have a Porter Cable 14" that I just put a riser block in and am interested in upgrading the guides as it came with blocks for the sides and the rear bearing is facing perpendicular to the blade instead of inline like the carter ones. Since there are no Porter Cable specific pieces on the Carter website, do you know which parts would fit the PC bandsaw? Thanks.
Give Kris a call, I believe the jet will work but he will know for sure.
888-622-7837
I have 14" porter cable and have carter guides on it. I bought it with them already installed so not sure which model it is, but I do know they work
@@AlexK07010 are there any part numbers on the guide mount that you can see?
@@johnpeters211 Don't see any part numbers but here are 2 pictures photos.app.goo.gl/NGUn4ZKeoSXFB6RY6
Can you help me? I have the Rikon 10-324 and the blade runs perfectly straight when viewed from the front, but when viewed from the right side, the blade oscillates front to back about 1/8" with each revolution. What is out of adjustment? Thank you!
This is not an adjustment issue, the blade has a bad weld.
Alex. I have a Delta shopmaster that vibrates at different times when using. What would you suggest checking first.
I know it's not a quality saw. Maybe it's just the way it is.
I enjoyed your videos very much.
Thank you for your time.
Regards
Randall
Try this little trick, place the saw on thin cardboard. You will be very amazed.
@Bandsaw Life my saw is a 9 inch delta shopmaster but I'll try that trick. Thanks for the quick reply.
Randall
I think this video came out about a month or two after I bought this saw. I tried resigning for the first time last night, and was a little disappointed in the results. It was through 7 1/2 inch walnut, and the blade curved inside the board so one of the boards had a hump and the other had a valley. Is that because I didn’t have a tension tight enough? I had a three-quarter inch four tooth per inch blade in it.
I would have to guess that the tension was to low or the blade was dull
The tension was too low. I also got the size blade you recommended, and tuned it up. It cuts walnut like butter! This will eliminate a lot of planer passes in getting my rough stock down to final thickness. Thanks!
Hey Alex, I have a 18" Jet bandsaw. Is there any hope for a tension release for this? And by the way thanks for helping my bandsaw run better.
Not that I know of
Very helpful thank you
Can you use a 4” to 2 1/2 adapter for the dust collection on this or the JET you reviewed awhile back. I’m trying to decide between the two.
You can but a 4” gives you more volume
Alex I have the RIKON
14" Deluxe Bandsaw - 1-3/4 HP
Model 10-326. I just watched you set up. I’m getting a sticky sound by the black idler pulley that the belt rides on. Any ideas. Thanks Marty Pyeatt
@@pyeattclan1 hmmmm sounds like the drive belt
Do these principles apply to smaller bandsaws? I have a 10” WEN that needs adjusting because the blade wanders all over.
Absolutely
Alex, would you personally recommend any Rikon Bandsaw? If so what model?
One of the best lesson videos I've ever seen. I just this band saw used and it came with a new 3/4" blade. Do I centre the whole blade on the wheel? Or get the deepest part of the gullet on the centre? I also had to switch the drive belt back to high speed. I tried to cut a 3/4" piece of oak and it was cutting extremely slow. I'll check my belt tension, and blade tension again. If that's wrong it has to be a complete shit blade or something is wrong with the motor or belt! Any ideas? It sure dulled my excitement to see this thing cut like sh!t on my first try!
It should always be in the highest setting for wood the lower setting is for non-ferrous metal. With a three-quarter inch blade you can only put it as far back as the back edge cannot overhang the back of the wheel, but this should still give you enough tension at the tooth to be able to re-saw good and straight.
Alex I’m buying my first bandsaw what would be better the rikon 10-326 or should I go with a jet I do a lot of co2 laser work and plan on doing a lot of resaw work to get my boards down thin enough to cut with the laser which saw would you recommend ?
I love the Powermatic 14” and serious step up would be the Powermatic 15”.
Alex, I have the predecessor to this model, the 10-325. I have an issue that I have to readjust all of the bearings every time I adjust the cutting height of the guide post due to that forward/backward movement when you tighten the locking knob that you mention. Any suggestions to mitigate that?
Give rikon a call, ask for Rod Burrow. If he doesn’t know it can’t be fixed!
www.rikontools.com/support#contact2
@tcbren83 having the exact same issue with my 10-325. Have you figured out a solution? Thanks
Hi Alex, great video, by far the best one out there!. I watched it several times prior to the delivery of my 10-326 audit helped tremendously with the setup process. I installed a ¼" blade to cut some tight radius corners and it worked perfectly. The next day I noticed a high pitch squeal when the saw starts up. I only lasts for a second or two. I've rechecked all of the settings and everything looks good. Any idea what might be causing it?
Check and tighten the drive belt.
@@bandsawlife2660 Alex, that fix the problem. I signed up for your seminar at Woodcraft in Raleigh in February. I'm looking forward to learning more about bandsaws from the expert!
What are the odds, I have a Rikon that's basically the same model you're using and my first shot at resaw will be 12" cherry. Great videos, changed the way I tune my bandsaws forever. Mine came with a resaw bar, do you like these or should I just use the fence as you did and is there an application for the resaw bar? Thank you.
Not a fan of the resaw bar. Thank you for validation.
Great video, thanks Alex! Can I ask you two questions?
I have the 324 model (one step down from this). Recently when using my 3/16” 4tpi skip tooth blade for a bandsaw box, I was hearing a weird sound during cutting. I would describe it as wind howling or like a spooky ghost sound you hear at Halloween. I couldn’t figure out what that was, but I broke the blade at one point, tried a new one, and heard it again. I was sawing a box of mostly cherry with a Purple Heart accent.
I’ve also really struggled with my 3/16” blade’s tracking. It will NOT sit still on the wheel unless it’s absolutely perfectly set. Any tips for that? Thanks again!
The sound your hearing is a bearing turning at full speed occasionally. One of them need to be repacked or replaced.
If you don’t use a Blade stabilizer for blades 1/4” or smaller you’re not getting the most out of your blades or saw.
@@bandsawlife2660 thanks, I’ll check that out! I thought the thrust bearing should be turning at all times during cuts (anytime pressure is applied). Are you’re saying there’s a balance between simply turning and turning at full speed, and I just need to back it off slightly so there’s not as much direct contact on the bearing during cutting?
@@bandsawlife2660 I've been reading up about bearings and watched your how-to video on repacking, and I think I misunderstood what you were saying. Since the thrust bearing should be spinning during cuts, it wouldn't matter if it's spinning at full RPM or not right? So maybe you're saying increased FRICTION from a poor bearing is causing the sound, and exacerbated when the bearing is trying to spin at full speed? And that replacing or repacking is all I need to do. Do I have that right? Thanks again Alex!
@@MorrMedia1 when sawdust dries out the grease and the ball bearings ride on a dry surface this creates space which cause the bearing to vibrate at a certain speed and that is the noise being heard.
Great video, too bad there were no close-ups showing the bearing adjustments specifically the side bearings. At any rate, could you also comment on the proper tension of the drive wheel pulley?
I always suggest opening the door and checking tension on the left side by laying your finger on the frame so you have a consistent distance from the wheel. Tap as hard as you can, no more than a 1/4” of movement
@@bandsawlife2660 sorry, I meant to say the drive belt on the pulley coming from the motor... is that what you're talking about?
No, I was talking about blade tension
Hey what would be the best blade for scroll sawing on my rikon 10-326 band saw and do I need a different guide on it I’m just starting out on a band saw so new to the hobby
1/8” Carter Products and a stabilizer guide, call Kris at 889-622-7837 and mention me and he will give you a discount and the proper guide
Hello Mr. Alex. I am new to working with these tools. My desire is to make my own bowl blanks for turning. Would you recommend this saw for beginners ? Thank you
Sure
Sure follow the directions on set up and you should be able to get a decent cut considering you use Décent Guides and a good Greenwood Blake
I’ve got the rikon 10-324.i’m assuming that it’s about the same.i have had problems with breakage of blades,set mine from your other video.i also am running the Kreg fence system.the only thing i don’t like about it is when you chance a blade,you have to take off the entire fence system.i bought the cheaper set of bearings,couldn’t afford the ones that are on the 10-326,which i really wanted.any feedback back?
Should be about the same. The bearings you have will work fine.
I’m in the market for a new bandsaw upgrade from a craftsman 12 inch. I’ve watched all your videos on Rikon 10-326 the Jet 14SFX and the Laguna 14/12. Which of these three would you recommend? Thanks, I’m sure I’m not the only one wandering.
Hands down the Jet SFX 14”
After watching your video again on the jet I decided to buy it. I’ve tried to call laguna for a week no answer and no call back and that was a big factor no service
@@bandsawlife2660 The only thing to keep in mind is that Jet Customer Service should be called Jet Customer Disservice. I've never had issue with Rikon or Laguna CS but Jet. . . .well that's another story.