This is a jetta tdi we are having oil cooler failure 2 new one and a use one we are replacing it with a original one from vw and see if it is going to last more thant a year
This cooler is subjected to alternate pressure loads, first from the thick oil when the engine is started cold. That presses the oil passages with around 70 PSI for a while, until the engine oil warms and the oil pressure goes down somewhat. BUT, when the engine is shut down, the warm coolant is up to 16 or so PSI, when the oil pressure goes to zero. This alternate pressurizing to one side then the opposite side fatigues the joints of the stacked plates enough to fail open, In their search to optimize the heat transfer (stoopidly enough), the cooler designers went too far, so the plates are too thin and flex back and forth until it fails allowing the intermixing of oil and coolant and coolant and oil, BOTH WAYS. So, when someone sees the oil pressure light come on, it means that either the oil filter or the cooler or the oil pump already failed, and you need to immediately shut down the engtine and quickly (BUT CAREFULLY) open the coolant cap to avoid a severe contamination of both circuits, but by then, the damage is already done, and you will need to comletely flush BOTH circuits. The coolant circuit will need a strong washing with detergent to remove the oil coating from the engine block, and probably, the radiator wil be best cleaned removed from the car and degreased with some MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone or, more cheaply, with paint thinner!). The oil circuit would be cleaned by using n "Oil System Cleaner" or engine flush a t least twice with full oil and filter change, no less.this is an example of how badly designed ans built are cars today, as the automakers search for cutting every penny from costs. As VW (and other German auotmakers) face strong competition from asian fabricators, they are going to use cheapo parts even more aggressively. So much for the previously famous "German Engineering"... HA HA.
How long was this on the car before it failed? I had brown coolant, so I flushed and replaced my oil cooler with a new one including filter and o-ring, then flushed coolant. Drove 5 miles, black oil in coolant again. Figure its a new oil cooler, so the problem must be the dreaded head gasket. Changed that after uncertain pressure / sniff test results and had it checked by local garage. Flush again. Drive 5 miles… black oil in coolant again, like I just poured oil right in there. Next morning oil and water patch on the ground under the cooler, can see it dripping. I'll test it tomorrow but it's looking like it was the oil cooler, after all that work. I will buy OEM in future… right now I think I have the worlds most expensive broken brand new oil cooler. Thanks for the video.
Great video. Here a new subscriber. I have exactly the same car . It keeps pushing coolant out of the reservoir. Looks like the cooling system has over pressure. I noticed that there is a bit of oil in the reservoir tank. Also the heater stopped working. It blows cold air only. Some people told me that it has a blown head gasket but your video makes more sense to me. Any suggestions.? Thanks
Hi there I’m trying to test a oil cooler on a 2006 GSXR 600 motorcycle. I have the parts to make a similar set up as yours. I haven’t been able to find much info on the internet on how to test them and what parts I needed. What’s the best way to cap off one of the ends ? And do you have to run a certain amount of psi at a time or can you do just quick blast of air and check for any bubbles and that will tell you that oil cooler is no good?
I’ve just had a camshaft changed with belt and water pump on a mk4 golf pd150 arl engine and week later I’ve got thick black oil in my coolant tank. I’m in process of taking oil cooler off hoping that’s the culprit….
Did the new cooler from the dealer fix the issue, or did you find something else wrong that was causing the cooler to fail? I have replaced mine 5 times, they only last about 3 months....I even got one from the dealer....
+Travis Wills what is your oil weight? the more weight the higher the pressure, and most if not all of the water cooled VW have an oil cooler, and high oil pressure. use the factory recommended oil to keep pressure where it should be, a restriction in the oil flow will also cause higher pressure. be sure to run a good brand oil filter, with plenty of filtering plus flow.
Oh yeah, i used a dealer cooler and 5-30 oil and a premium filter.... they ended up changing out my turbo, said that it was leaking internally... causing the oil to get into the coolant... well... we shall see..thanks :)
Just changed my cooler, VR6 none turbo. First oil in the antifreeze, blew the bottom radiator hose off. Then when i turned the car off, oil pressure went to 0 and 16psi or so on the coolant, leaked coolant into the oil through the same failure. Found one in the Junk Yard for 4$ it was a 12v Vr6 and mine is a 24v but it looked like the exact same part. changed it and so far so good, Been about a week. The job wasnt that hard if you have jack stands and a Jack and a few basic tools, although i must say, it took quite a while to get all of that oil out of the coolant. ended up running the car with the lid off of the ball, and every time the thermostat cycled, i would use my shop vac and suck the "oil / water" out and then refill it from a 5 gallon bucket. about 15 gallons of this finally made it well enough to top it off and get down the road. still tiny signs of it here and there. Currently running rad flush and will probably run another bottle through before winter and G12.
I have the same problem in a Peugeot 301 Allure, yesterday I woke up with a large oil leak in my garage, I took the representative and now I have to buy the entire automatic transmission, $5000 E, for them to guarantee their work, God this car does not have more than 2 years, any suggestions?
It's made in Germany the company is called Neussbaum they are available in the US and Canada the head office is states side they make different kind also
Hello sir, i have a passat 2001 year petrol engine( alz code) whit same problem.I was change the oil cooler twice in 3 years, last one ( Nissens) was working about 6 months after that all the oil was jump in the coolant reservoir, now i order one from Hella, hope will be good.Beware of aftermarket low prices on this oil coolers, they could destroy your engine.My question for you is this: can it be clean perfect the instalation from oil? Or it is compromised for good?untill now no hoses broken
rangeman it depends if the has been in The cooling system for a long time then it could affect the rubber hose if they feel much softer than normal then replace the one that looks bad.
I ordered it from US it’s a German made the name of the company is Neussbaum they are not cheap I don’t have it anymore because it was rusted and not safe anymore I live where they put lots of salts on the roads.
Technically you’re beetle should have pink in colour coolant G12 but if it’s not mixed and fully green coolant then it ok I actually have the same problem in a 1999 gas beetle that I’m driving right now . But yes the oil and coolant should stay the normal color and not mixing buy the way make sure that the oil cooler seal is not too old because last week it broke last week on my beetle it lost most of it’s oil but did not damage the engine as soon I saw and heard the low oil pressure warning I shut the the right away.
I have a 2.0 mk4 jetta I have the same situation but could the coolant find it way in the oil tank from the oil cooler because I see oil on the oil cap
Hi I always thought that the system with the most pressure would get into the other system but now If think more about it the oil pressure is certainly higher than the cooling system but a rest with the engine stopped and cooling system hot then there’s a possibility that the coolant could mix with the oil hopefully this helps.
We changed the oil cooler o ring on my 97 jetta and some how we broke something inside the oil cooler and oil got mixed into the cooling system. So I went to pick n pull and got another oil cooler. And I've replaced the radiator the radiator hoses the water pump and and I had the head gasket pressure tested and there is still a lot of oil in the cooling system. Do you think the second oil cooler that I got from pick n pull is the problem?????k
timbo slice HI is your're Jetta with the 1.9 L TD engine if it is then the head gasket could be the issue but I think in those years the head gasket were mostly a steel sandwich witch were very good but if it had a fiber type gasket then it could be the gasket I remember back then when I worked on a lot of 1.6 TD they were more prone for mixing the engine oil and coolant did the engine over heat ? did you test the oil cooler like I did in the video ? the old and the use replacement one if it is a gas engine I haven't seen this problem before but if it has a automatic transmission then there is a cooler too on the transmission .
V10PDTDI my jetta is the 2.0 GLS. It did overheat once but the oil was in the Cooling system before it overheated. We took it To a shop and they pressure tested it and they said the head gasket was good. It all started when we broke The first oil cooler. I haven't had it tested yet because I don't no where to get it done.
does anyone know what exactly it is that fails in these. Is there some design sheet available online. I suppose some are made with different internal materials or thinner materials. Or does the coolant corrode a part which brings up the thought of using the wrong coolant.
If I live in a warm climate all year (socal), why not just bypass it? If anyone could please provide some feedback. I can't find much answers online. I'm thinking of connecting the 2 rubber hoses (oil supply) together and capping off the oil cooler. I have a nice chocolate milkshake in the coolant right now. and it seems the risk is not worth the benefit of having the ATF fluid heat-up in my area. Thx
+Tom Nouri warm climate and deleted oil "cooler" is bad. the cooler cools the oil because most water cooled VW engines have one because without it the oil would have too much heat in it to be fully effective.
@@AGuysGarage late reply but this is not an oil cooler. It is actually a heat exchanger put there to stabilize the temperature of the oil and coolant. Bypassing it doesn't do anything, temps remain in the safe range but there might be a slight gap between the coolant and oil temp. Also, TDIs even modded don't produce enough heat to overheat the oil when the cooling system is fully operational. And finally max temp for 5W40 oil is 140C, way beyond that TDI will ever get to. My 2.0TDI reaches 103-105C at maximum when driven hard without the "oil cooler"
@@ddaniel987 been years since i had my VR6, don't remember the oil temps compaired to the coolant temps. but mine went bad and ruined a 60 dollar syn oil change. had to go to the junkyard and pull one to fix it. didn't know it was a TDI. i had the gasoline VR6. It ran at 210 to 215 F when everything was working right. that is the coolant...miss my VR6 was a fun little car. All i know about that piece is it has oil and coolant running through it, and when it fails, while the car is running you leak oil into the coolant and when you turn it off you leak coolant into the oil, makes a big mess of things and takes a long time to flush all of the oil out of the coolant P.S. on down in the comments is your own comments talking on this subject calling it an oil cooler and how u hate them. the man under me calls it a cooler. so lets not split hairs.
Okay so im having no bubling in my expansion tank, no oil in my coolant. Just coolant in my oil and a very little is going into. When i blow into my cooler it shoots out milky coolant. Does that mean my oil cooler is shot?
Daniel Jovanovski check your head gasket. open your oil filler cap and check if theres any coolant or discoloration on the cap, if so you most likely have a blown head gasket
Not 100% but I think it was millage and time that made this cooler fail it’s a pretty rare failure from what I see personally I had replaced it with a German aftermarket but did not last I later replaced it with a genuine VW and it was okay after.
It happens BOTH WAYS AT THE SAME TIME: First, when the cooler fails, the oil pressure is much greater than the coolant pressure, as the engine is cold, the oil is thick, and the coolant is noy yet warm, so the oil gets into the coolant. THEN, when the engine is shut off, the oil pressure goes to zero, but now the engine is hot and the coolant is pressurized to about 16 PSI, depending on the pressure of the coolant cap, but then it is the coolant going to the oil sump. SOO, you get the complete failure: now you HAVE TO clean the mess inside the coolant circuit AND clean all traces of coolant from the entire engine insides.Great way to goo, VW; you make me think german designers of today are dumb (or they are so greedy that they PLAN and seed a failure to happen.
I fucking hate oil coolers on TDIs. First time it broke it filled my coolant with oil, cleaned that, replaced with OEM cooler and 2 months later the same thing.. replaced it, cleaned and 1 week later the same thing. I started wondering if maybe the head is cracked, we pulled it off, pressure checked it and it was absolutely fine. I replaced the oil cooler for the final time and... 1 month later it filled the coolant with oil again. I bypassed it and forgot about it.
@@wisemanzungu4934 no issues whatsoever. Oil temp never goes beyond 100C on a 230hp tdi, car heats up as usual.. I have no idea whats the purpose of this part
Hi Daniel. Please can you take a Pic of your oil cooler bypass. I tried by looping the two ends together with a strong pipe. But it's leaking on the side.
@@wisemanzungu4934 Hi, I found a random U turn pipe with the same diameter from a mercedes truck. It starts directly from the block, does a U turn and goes into the heater core pipe using just one connection. Try to do it like me with as short as possible hose so it doesn't hang, without kinks and using OEM clamps. I did it a long time ago and it is still holding strong
Emil Persson it depends on what type of climate the car is being driven and how fast it’s been driven in cold weather it helps the oil get to normal temperature faster and in hot climate it help maintain a constant temperature but I don’t think it would be that bad if it’s remove but the oil quality would have to be good and the oil change interval would have to be reduced a little bit I remember older non turbo diesel did not have any cooler but since 1983 or 1984 all TD cars had coolers even performance version of gas engines but I bet it was mostly designed for high speed like on the German Autobhan .
This cooler is subjected to alternate pressure loads, first from the thick oil when the engine is started cold. That presses the oil passages with around 70 PSI for a while, until the engine oil warms and the oil pressure goes down somewhat. BUT, when the engine is shut down, the warm coolant is up to 16 or so PSI, when the oil pressure goes to zero. This alternate pressurizing to one side then the opposite side fatigues the joints of the stacked plates enough to fail open, In their search to optimize the heat transfer (stoopidly enough), the cooler designers went too far, so the plates are too thin and flex back and forth until it fails allowing the intermixing of oil and coolant and coolant and oil, BOTH WAYS. So, when someone sees the oil pressure light come on, it means that either the oil filter or the cooler or the oil pump already failed, and you need to immediately shut down the engtine and quickly (BUT CAREFULLY) open the coolant cap to avoid a severe contamination of both circuits, but by then, the damage is already done, and you will need to comletely flush BOTH circuits. The coolant circuit will need a strong washing with detergent to remove the oil coating from the engine block, and probably, the radiator wil be best cleaned removed from the car and degreased with some MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone or, more cheaply, with paint thinner!). The oil circuit would be cleaned by using n "Oil System Cleaner" or engine flush a t least twice with full oil and filter change, no less.this is an example of how badly designed ans built are cars today, as the automakers search for cutting every penny from costs. As VW (and other German auotmakers) face strong competition from asian fabricators, they are going to use cheapo parts even more aggressively. So much for the previously famous "German Engineering"... HA HA.
How long was this on the car before it failed? I had brown coolant, so I flushed and replaced my oil cooler with a new one including filter and o-ring, then flushed coolant. Drove 5 miles, black oil in coolant again. Figure its a new oil cooler, so the problem must be the dreaded head gasket. Changed that after uncertain pressure / sniff test results and had it checked by local garage. Flush again. Drive 5 miles… black oil in coolant again, like I just poured oil right in there. Next morning oil and water patch on the ground under the cooler, can see it dripping. I'll test it tomorrow but it's looking like it was the oil cooler, after all that work. I will buy OEM in future… right now I think I have the worlds most expensive broken brand new oil cooler. Thanks for the video.
Great video. Here a new subscriber.
I have exactly the same car . It keeps pushing coolant out of the reservoir. Looks like the cooling system has over pressure.
I noticed that there is a bit of oil in the reservoir tank.
Also the heater stopped working. It blows cold air only.
Some people told me that it has a blown head gasket but your video makes more sense to me.
Any suggestions.?
Thanks
love that lift its pretty compact. What make is it?
Exactly what I needed!
You’re welcome
Mine is slobbering a little bit of oil in the top, should i change all cooler or just change the Oring? Thank you
Hi there I’m trying to test a oil cooler on a 2006 GSXR 600 motorcycle. I have the parts to make a similar set up as yours. I haven’t been able to find much info on the internet on how to test them and what parts I needed. What’s the best way to cap off one of the ends ? And do you have to run a certain amount of psi at a time or can you do just quick blast of air and check for any bubbles and that will tell you that oil cooler is no good?
I’ve just had a camshaft changed with belt and water pump on a mk4 golf pd150 arl engine and week later I’ve got thick black oil in my coolant tank. I’m in process of taking oil cooler off hoping that’s the culprit….
Did the new cooler from the dealer fix the issue, or did you find something else wrong that was causing the cooler to fail? I have replaced mine 5 times, they only last about 3 months....I even got one from the dealer....
The problem did not com back
+Travis Wills what is your oil weight? the more weight the higher the pressure, and most if not all of the water cooled VW have an oil cooler, and high oil pressure. use the factory recommended oil to keep pressure where it should be, a restriction in the oil flow will also cause higher pressure. be sure to run a good brand oil filter, with plenty of filtering plus flow.
Oh yeah, i used a dealer cooler and 5-30 oil and a premium filter.... they ended up changing out my turbo, said that it was leaking internally... causing the oil to get into the coolant... well... we shall see..thanks :)
Just changed my cooler, VR6 none turbo. First oil in the antifreeze, blew the bottom radiator hose off. Then when i turned the car off, oil pressure went to 0 and 16psi or so on the coolant, leaked coolant into the oil through the same failure. Found one in the Junk Yard for 4$ it was a 12v Vr6 and mine is a 24v but it looked like the exact same part. changed it and so far so good, Been about a week. The job wasnt that hard if you have jack stands and a Jack and a few basic tools, although i must say, it took quite a while to get all of that oil out of the coolant. ended up running the car with the lid off of the ball, and every time the thermostat cycled, i would use my shop vac and suck the "oil / water" out and then refill it from a 5 gallon bucket. about 15 gallons of this finally made it well enough to top it off and get down the road. still tiny signs of it here and there. Currently running rad flush and will probably run another bottle through before winter and G12.
I have the same problem in a Peugeot 301 Allure, yesterday I woke up with a large oil leak in my garage, I took the representative and now I have to buy the entire automatic transmission, $5000 E, for them to guarantee their work, God this car does not have more than 2 years, any suggestions?
Hello friend, the output of bubbles through which circulates the oil and signal that the play is already defective , it is necessary to return?
It's made in Germany the company is called Neussbaum they are available in the US and Canada the head office is states side they make different kind also
You bought a used part? Did you try a brand new dealer part?
auxmike Hi I can’t remember if I tested the new one from the dealer but after I replaced it with a original new one the problem never came back.
Hello sir, i have a passat 2001 year petrol engine( alz code) whit same problem.I was change the oil cooler twice in 3 years, last one ( Nissens) was working about 6 months after that all the oil was jump in the coolant reservoir, now i order one from Hella, hope will be good.Beware of aftermarket low prices on this oil coolers, they could destroy your engine.My question for you is this: can it be clean perfect the instalation from oil? Or it is compromised for good?untill now no hoses broken
rangeman it depends if the has been in The cooling system for a long time then it could affect the rubber hose if they feel much softer than normal then replace the one that looks bad.
Where did you get that lift? That thing is Rad!
I ordered it from US it’s a German made the name of the company is Neussbaum they are not cheap I don’t have it anymore because it was rusted and not safe anymore I live where they put lots of salts on the roads.
So as long as my coolant is green and my oil is normal I'm okay? 2000 Beetle, 256K, thanks, Dave.
Technically you’re beetle should have pink in colour coolant G12 but if it’s not mixed and fully green coolant then it ok I actually have the same problem in a 1999 gas beetle that I’m driving right now . But yes the oil and coolant should stay the normal color and not mixing buy the way make sure that the oil cooler seal is not too old because last week it broke last week on my beetle it lost most of it’s oil but did not damage the engine as soon I saw and heard the low oil pressure warning I shut the the right away.
thank's, this will help me alot ;)
I have a 2.0 mk4 jetta I have the same situation but could the coolant find it way in the oil tank from the oil cooler because I see oil on the oil cap
Hi I always thought that the system with the most pressure would get into the other system but now If think more about it the oil pressure is certainly higher than the cooling system but a rest with the engine stopped and cooling system hot then there’s a possibility that the coolant could mix with the oil hopefully this helps.
We changed the oil cooler o ring on my 97 jetta and some how we broke something inside the oil cooler and oil got mixed into the cooling system. So I went to pick n pull and got another oil cooler. And I've replaced the radiator the radiator hoses the water pump and and I had the head gasket pressure tested and there is still a lot of oil in the cooling system. Do you think the second oil cooler that I got from pick n pull is the problem?????k
timbo slice HI is your're Jetta with the 1.9 L TD engine if it is then the head gasket could be the issue but I think in those years the head gasket were mostly a steel sandwich witch were very good but if it had a fiber type gasket then it could be the gasket I remember back then when I worked on a lot of 1.6 TD they were more prone for mixing the engine oil and coolant did the engine over heat ? did you test the oil cooler like I did in the video ? the old and the use replacement one if it is a gas engine I haven't seen this problem before but if it has a automatic transmission then there is a cooler too on the transmission .
V10PDTDI my jetta is the 2.0 GLS. It did overheat once but the oil was in the Cooling system before it overheated. We took it To a shop and they pressure tested it and they said the head gasket was good. It all started when we broke The first oil cooler. I haven't had it tested yet because I don't no where to get it done.
V10PDTDI p.s. I'm Timbo Slice using my wife's phone lol
Whats the make of that vacuum and pressure pump?
It's the expensive rebuildable version of the MityVac. NAPA had a sale price of $80 on them a while back & I picked one up, theyre GREAT
does anyone know what exactly it is that fails in these. Is there some design sheet available online. I suppose some are made with different internal materials or thinner materials. Or does the coolant corrode a part which brings up the thought of using the wrong coolant.
I 'm not sure why they go bad but it 's not that common to go bad I would say the constant heat cycles. And age .
If I live in a warm climate all year (socal), why not just bypass it? If anyone could please provide some feedback. I can't find much answers online. I'm thinking of connecting the 2 rubber hoses (oil supply) together and capping off the oil cooler. I have a nice chocolate milkshake in the coolant right now. and it seems the risk is not worth the benefit of having the ATF fluid heat-up in my area. Thx
Tom Nouri My car is having the same problem right now, did you find something that could help?
+Tom Nouri warm climate and deleted oil "cooler" is bad. the cooler cools the oil because most water cooled VW engines have one because without it the oil would have too much heat in it to be fully effective.
@@AGuysGarage late reply but this is not an oil cooler. It is actually a heat exchanger put there to stabilize the temperature of the oil and coolant. Bypassing it doesn't do anything, temps remain in the safe range but there might be a slight gap between the coolant and oil temp. Also, TDIs even modded don't produce enough heat to overheat the oil when the cooling system is fully operational. And finally max temp for 5W40 oil is 140C, way beyond that TDI will ever get to. My 2.0TDI reaches 103-105C at maximum when driven hard without the "oil cooler"
@@ddaniel987 been years since i had my VR6, don't remember the oil temps compaired to the coolant temps. but mine went bad and ruined a 60 dollar syn oil change. had to go to the junkyard and pull one to fix it. didn't know it was a TDI. i had the gasoline VR6. It ran at 210 to 215 F when everything was working right. that is the coolant...miss my VR6 was a fun little car. All i know about that piece is it has oil and coolant running through it, and when it fails, while the car is running you leak oil into the coolant and when you turn it off you leak coolant into the oil, makes a big mess of things and takes a long time to flush all of the oil out of the coolant
P.S. on down in the comments is your own comments talking on this subject calling it an oil cooler and how u hate them. the man under me calls it a cooler. so lets not split hairs.
Okay so im having no bubling in my expansion tank, no oil in my coolant. Just coolant in my oil and a very little is going into. When i blow into my cooler it shoots out milky coolant. Does that mean my oil cooler is shot?
Daniel Jovanovski have you tried it like I did under water?
Daniel Jovanovski check your head gasket. open your oil filler cap and check if theres any coolant or discoloration on the cap, if so you most likely have a blown head gasket
Is it over heating? If so it's your head gasket!
Mrssea Sea never over heating i drive it all dqy everyday
And did you ever find the root cause?
Not 100% but I think it was millage and time that made this cooler fail it’s a pretty rare failure from what I see personally I had replaced it with a German aftermarket but did not last I later replaced it with a genuine VW and it was okay after.
@@V10PDTDI I just replaced mine, I had a ton of oil in the water and water in the oil. But with a brand new head gasket… 🤷♂️
Did you test the oil cooler on your car ?
@@V10PDTDI yeah it passed, I literally just bought a new engine today for my 2000 A4 1.8T
It's not as bad as coolant in the sump.
sacheus you're right coolant in the oil is way worst it would affect all the bearing surfaces
It happens BOTH WAYS AT THE SAME TIME: First, when the cooler fails, the oil pressure is much greater than the coolant pressure, as the engine is cold, the oil is thick, and the coolant is noy yet warm, so the oil gets into the coolant. THEN, when the engine is shut off, the oil pressure goes to zero, but now the engine is hot and the coolant is pressurized to about 16 PSI, depending on the pressure of the coolant cap, but then it is the coolant going to the oil sump. SOO, you get the complete failure: now you HAVE TO clean the mess inside the coolant circuit AND clean all traces of coolant from the entire engine insides.Great way to goo, VW; you make me think german designers of today are dumb (or they are so greedy that they PLAN and seed a failure to happen.
I fucking hate oil coolers on TDIs. First time it broke it filled my coolant with oil, cleaned that, replaced with OEM cooler and 2 months later the same thing.. replaced it, cleaned and 1 week later the same thing. I started wondering if maybe the head is cracked, we pulled it off, pressure checked it and it was absolutely fine. I replaced the oil cooler for the final time and... 1 month later it filled the coolant with oil again. I bypassed it and forgot about it.
Howzit. I'd like to know... Have you ahd any issues after bypassing the cooler??
@@wisemanzungu4934 no issues whatsoever. Oil temp never goes beyond 100C on a 230hp tdi, car heats up as usual.. I have no idea whats the purpose of this part
Thank you. Will give it a try. This when this oil cooler gives up it leaves you with soo much to clean. Thanks again.
Hi Daniel. Please can you take a Pic of your oil cooler bypass. I tried by looping the two ends together with a strong pipe. But it's leaking on the side.
@@wisemanzungu4934 Hi, I found a random U turn pipe with the same diameter from a mercedes truck. It starts directly from the block, does a U turn and goes into the heater core pipe using just one connection. Try to do it like me with as short as possible hose so it doesn't hang, without kinks and using OEM clamps. I did it a long time ago and it is still holding strong
Oil cooler delete! 😩😤✌😁🗿
I want an onest opinion. Can you actually bypas this shit cooler. Mine are broke.
Emil Persson it depends on what type of climate the car is being driven and how fast it’s been driven in cold weather it helps the oil get to normal temperature faster and in hot climate it help maintain a constant temperature but I don’t think it would be that bad if it’s remove but the oil quality would have to be good and the oil change interval would have to be reduced a little bit I remember older non turbo diesel did not have any cooler but since 1983 or 1984 all TD cars had coolers even performance version of gas engines but I bet it was mostly designed for high speed like on the German Autobhan .