For everyone leaving a good dive watch on the shore (or in the drawer) and taking only the dive computer: have mercy on the watch! If you listen carefully you’ll hear your dive watch crying, accompanied with muttering: “but I’ve been trained to dive right from my mechanical birth, why isn’t s/he taking me?!?” 😢 Seriously now, a good dive watch can simply be used as backup to the computer, allowing you “at a glance” to see when to start ascending, assuming you adjust the “triangle” to the planned bottom-time, rather than to the start of the dive.
@@ceebee-j5x Some famous lines of dive watches are quartz, for example the Citizen Promaster Dive based on Eco-Drive is solar powered quartz (solar, so no battery change for a long long time)
I've got terrible luck with dive comps, suunto zoop and mares puck failed on me mid dive (suunto started reading 10m deeper than actual depth, and the puck gave me the boot error screen) So I always have my turtle on my wrist as backup - redundancies are important! as well as knowing your dive plan in case your hardware decides to brick on you
Met a guy with a rolex submariner in komodo about a decade back. At the safety stop, he was messing with buoyancy and he got the watch caught in his BCD and it subsequently floated down. He tried going after it, but DM caught him and checked his psi, it was low enough that he had to hang on to him and stop him from diving down to grab it. They got into a punch up on the boat. That was our 3rd dive, and there were no spare tanks to make a rescue search. Went back out the next day to search for it at first light, but no luck. Guy was inconsolable, plus was banned from any further dives due to him attacking the DM. Don't dive with your luxury dive watches friends.
@@chrisp.5272 Yeah or a Citizen Promaster Diver if you want better lume and ISO certification and if you lose it you're not losing thousands (and time on a waiting list).
9:54 "Do not pour running water directly from the faucet" - Every time after swimming in salt water in my Casio AE1500WH I thoroughly rinse it under tap water to remove salt water. Been running perfectly for years now.
I'm not a diver, but I wear my Citizen Promasters (auto and Eco-Drive) almost every day, for gardening, swimming, everything, because I don't feel like worrying about my watch. It does everything and is reliable. That's what I expect from my divers.
99% of people who purchase dive watches are not certified divers and will take them off when they wash their hands. That being said, no one today who is a certified diver depends solely upon a dive watch and very few people even wear them diving.
I remember when Timex said that while their Ironman Watch purchasers may enjoy biking, swimming or cycling, almost none of them have done a triathlon. Nonetheless, people appreciate a tough, durable watch. And many divers have stated that they still wear their dive watches as a backup.
I rarely take my watch off, shower in it, wash the dishes. Swim in it. Wash the cars. This applies to my Rolex, Seiko’s and Tudors. If they can’t hack it they ain’t worth having.
It's certified for diving in Russia by the Russian military and standards organisation. Also by being fastened to the outside of Russian nuclear submarines by Russian sailors proving a point.
My first dive watch was a $45 Casio Duro(the "Marlin") and I wore it on over 800 dives. Mostly as a backup to the computer, or simply force of habit. I still have it but it's long since been retired. It has withstood a horrendous beating and it shows. I have an Omega Seamaster as well, but it's far too pretty(and expensive) to subject to that kind of torture. My current active diver is a Citizen Promaster but it's getting older every year and I'll soon be looking for a replacement for it. p.s. at 3:45 that's a GMT bezel, which is bi-directional, and serves a completely different function.
I started working as a commercial diver in early '99. I've only ever used a watch as a backup, and as a actual piece of equipment I've always chosen ISO rated watches - I did buy a Sub, a Sinn, a Rado Captain Cook, a Squale etc - however my working watches were (I rarely dive for work now) always ISO rated. My 2c - avoid the hype. Citizen and Seiko's ISO rated divers are more than you will ever need.
I have a few ISO watches, but when I hit the water, I will use either a Citizen ProMaster EcoDrive ($180), or a Casio Duro ($50). There's no way I'd risk taking a multi-thousand dollar watch into an environment where anything can happen, and a breakage or a loss, could be a huge hit to the wallet.
Thank you! I’m a diving instructor for many many years and I tell people you can’t dive with a certain watch and they argue about WR. I do use a dive watch as my second device and have had some fail on me. I learned the hard way that 200 WR means nothing. In my early life I was a saturation diver, as I moved away from that job due to having a family I turned to being an instructor of recreational diving, I like the simplicity of using a watch to dive with but you have to have the right watch. I wear a sub, but there are plenty of nice watches out there that qualify as a diving watch, just do your research. P.s. some watches do not have “divers 300m” on them but are still divers watch’s such as the sub.
The timing bezel feature isn't for timing the dive - although it can. It is for timing the duration - at depth - for the purpose of informing the diver to resurface before the necessity to decompress. Hence the reason Doxa, for example, provides the additional track of numerals on their bezels. That is one of the most common misperceptions of the rotating bezel's purpose.
Exactly. The bezel is to show when your dive expires, and time your subsequent ascent. When the dive bezel was first invented, dive times were strictly regulated by decompression tables. So before you started a dive, you knew exactly how long the dive was going to be before you even hit the water. When you descended you set your Bezel to 60-Divetime. (Example: For a 40 minute dive, you line up the minute hand to 60-40=20.) When your minute hand hits the 0 marker, that's when your bottom time is up. This is why the lume pip and big triangle is at the zero. When your minute hand lines up with the zero mark, you begin your controlled ascent and decompression/safety stops. That's why the first 10 to 15 minutes of some bezels are marked every minute where the rest of the watch isn't. You're not worried about elapsed dive time, you want to know when to start your ascent, and you want to control how many feet per minute, and how long your safety/decompression stop should be.
Well, that depends on how you use the watch, but yes, RBT (remaining bottom time- the phrase you were describing) is the most common inital use of the watch. And then timing hangs, or timing deco stops, and in some cases timing intervals when running stage bottles. And it's amazing how many watch manufacturers and youtube "watch experts" don't know this.
@@EmeraldHill-vo1cs I have one, threw it on the timegrapher and it was running 0s/d, at least in two positions, problem is the bracelet is total crap. Put it on a NATO with heavy spring bars and it'll treat you right, but not me I hate acrylic glass.
Seriously, I had a Vostok Amphibia. It would fog up in the shower. lol. Sent it back for another one it also fogged up a lot. Even when going from Air conditioned house to outdoors.
I have a Vostok Komandirskie which I used daily for 1.5 years can say it's reliable and well built but the glass is not scartch resistant as I would expect.
Actually Casio is wishy-washy about that. They say that as “a general rule, all G-SHOCK watches can be safely used for swimming, snorkelling, and other water activities at a depth of up to 200 meters.” But then they say, “It's important to note that G-SHOCK watches are not designed for deep-sea diving and should not be used for activities such as scuba diving or free diving. The Master of G FROGMAN is a specialized diving watch designed specifically for scuba diving, and it is the most water-resistant model in the G-Shock line-up, ISO diver standard certified for water resistance up to 200-meter, including button operability underwater, making it the perfect companion for any diver.” So you can dive with any G-shock, and it’s probably fine, but they aren’t taking responsibility if you do.
@@WondersofWatchdom It’s for that reason I don’t own a g shock but rather a variety of more than capable Seiko and a Vostok g shock killers as batteries and electronics not required.
@@cmdrflint9115i'm wore my g shock to swim 3 time a week and also to fishing in saltwater, i never had water damage on any of my gshock, in fact my first gshock from 20 years ago still alive today with battery change
Thank you for clarifying. I haven't gone into the ocean since watching Jaws but it's good to know. My watches are mollycoddled like a Beverly Hills Pomeranian-- they are kept in their boxes and handled with kid gloves. A mallet doesn't go within 50 miles of them.
Appreciate taking the effort to explain them. Being a lazy RUclips subscriber that I am, may ask for your clarification (You can also ignore mine for being lazy to look for it elsewhere 😆) 1. I came across message that not all watches need to be tested individually to be certified? Only randomly or some portion of the production unit will be tested? 2. When the watch is certified and it stated 200m water resistance, it means it must pass 300m static water pressure test, which is 50% more than the WR declaration on the watch? Thank you!
Good questions! Every watch is fully tested. According to ISO, it’s always 125% of the stated rating. So, a 200M water resistance watch will be tested to 250M. They give that specific example. Another part of the pressure test I didn’t mention is that during the test, the crown or buttons are pressed sideways with a force of 5 newtons to ensure they don’t bend, break off or leak.
I believe for 'water resistant' rating a only sample of watches are tested, I've searched for more information on this (sample size etc. but can't find it). For ISO6425 (the 'diver's' rating) every single watch is tested. You can read the specs and testing yourself.
I was a Dive instructor with over 1200 dives in my free time. I use a Seiko and Citizen Dive Watch without any problems. In my time in the 80ths they had only pro-dive watches later, they became mainstream.
Goes back to at least the 60's for Seiko. Not sure about Citizen. The first Citizen I bought for diving was the one with air integration that they discontinued, it had a sender that screwed into the first stage (and broke twice, that's another story)
Fun story: I had a Seiko 5 (SRPD51) for 7 months, it went through everything, hard shocks and vibrations, water... Never had any problem with it. I also had Seiko 5 DressKX (SRPE53) for 12 months. It also went through everything without any problem. Then I had Seiko Turtle (SRP773) which is a certified dive watch. After 1 week of wearing it, it got hit by a ball (small kids were playing football and one of them shot it right at my watch) and even though it wasn't really a hard shot, the watch stopped working. All 3 watches had the same movement inside. It was probably bad luck but the biggest problem with "automatic dive watches" is that they use the exact same movements as any other "normal" watches. I don't know about any brand, that would make any kind of special dive movements. So the watch durability comes down to your movement durability at the end, whether it's ISO certified or not. And mechanical/automatic watches will always be less durable than quartz.
Have to disagree. Generally speaking, you’re right in saying that quartz movements are tougher than mechanical movements, all other things being equal (I did a video about this). However, there are plenty of quartz watches by known brands with bands that routinely break, parts that fail and gaskets that leak. So, I definitely would not say that the durability of a watch comes down to the movement. Also, a Seiko diver movement breaking because of being hit by a football is unusual (as you said, bad luck). They’re designed to take hits like this.
@@WondersofWatchdom Yeah, I agree with you. The case along with things like gaskets, spring bars and the strap/bracelet are very important to the overall durability. I just think that in terms of shock and vibrations resistance, the case can't do much in terms of durability. And since they use the same movements in "normal" watches and dive watches, you don't get a better shock resistant watch just because it's a certified diver. Just my humble opinion
7:54 My watches are mostly on NATOs as I nearly lost a couple of watches with springbar failure, it happened when I was climbing into the boat and I was so happy that it fell inside the boat
At 58, I've exclusively worn Casio watches, utilizing them for snorkeling and diving up to 30m depths without incident. Prior to each use, I verified their waterproofing and subsequently cleaned them with mild hand soap after exposure to seawater. Annual maintenance consisted of inspecting and conditioning the rubber seal. While underwater, I employed my torch to illuminate the time.
great video that fully explains what makes a divers watch a diver. My everyday watch is the Orient Triton/Neptune Divers shown near the end of the video, it takes a lot of punishment and just doesn't show it, a true tool watch.
Great video, very informative. Citizen's Promaster diver series somehow feels like a big ommission as a watch that has been ISO tested and was endorsed by the U. S. marine corps.
Why do i have a diver, i get asked this from time to time specially because we’re 1000 miles from any ocean, i tell them I use it for timing my burritos in the microwave, checking on the parking meter and occasionally sneaking into my neighbors swimming pool when they’re not home and I forget to remove my divers watch.
Vostok is awesome. I saw some channel that tested actual water resistance and it went to something ridiculous like 800 meters before it popped. To think it is "just" Soviet tech and costs like 70 bucks is quite a thought. Love mine.
My cheapo Invicta ProDiver ($59.95 when I bought it years ago on Amazon) is a great dive watch :D I'm not afraid to take it in the water, that's for sure.
I have dove with all my “dive” watches all the way down to 80 feet and had no issues. I just do it for fun not saying to do it. I’ve even taken a cheap Casio diver down and it still works great. Just clean them good after use in salt water.
4:05 - 4:12 You’ve got it backwards. If bumped or moved, you would read a shorter dive time, not a longer one, prompting you to surface sooner for safety purposes
I love my Samurai but I agree both these models are Good, the Turtle is always £25 cheaper for a comparable model Sammy and I must bit the bullet one day and get the Turtle model, to see how it wears and the cushion case would age more gracefully I would have thought with it's provenance and dings along the way.
Can I take my kamasu watch snorkelling wothout risking rust? I have put the watch in salt water before but i made sure as soon as I got back home, to soak the watch in bottled water in order to dissolved any salts left on the watch. I had no vissible issue with rush but i know the watch is not ISO certified. Can you give me some info regarding using the watch or not for snorkelling?
@@WondersofWatchdom Good know. I will continue using the watch when I'll go snorkeling this summer. You had me worried there for a moment. Great stuff btw.
I was told the reason 100 or even 200m depth rating despite dives rarely exceeding 30 meters is due the types of pressure that are applied: just static pressure applied to the watch would apply if it were simply face up on the sea bed at 200meters, but dynamic pressures from the watch moving through and under the water at depth can multiply the pressure. Hope that makes sense 😊
In the ninties I worked as a member of a NSW team. Funnily enough, we were issued a Timex Ironman for diving (and everything else). I think they were $45. I drooled over Subs, but the digital features of the Ironman were actually better for our use case.
Swum in the sea daily to temps of 3C for 3 years with a casio f91. Unbelievably, it still works perfectly. Cost £10. Good watch if your budget is lower and it looks retro cool if you like that.
Nice summary of the standards and the markings that differentiate those standards! Your explanation of the reason for the one-way rotating bezel was seemingly a little contradictory and I think it could be stated more clearly. All products are a compromise between features and cost. I understand that the Chinese watches I favor are not true "diver's" watches because it is much more likely that my budget will be limited than I will have money to blow on dive trips and true Diver's Watches.
I have not tested the Seestern -Doxa Homage, or the Steeldive Rolex Homage, but read on the internet that these Chinese watches (with Seiko movements), can be used for diving. Can you kindly confirm or otherwise?
@@WondersofWatchdom I watched the video, but I asked in case you or your followers have direct experience with the specific Chinese brands that I have mentioned.
One key difference between certified and non-certified dive watches is that for a non-certified watch (i.e. 200 m, but no "Diver"), only the product range needs to be certified to withstand a pressure of 20 bar, whereas for certified 200m divers, every single watch will be tested to function at 220 m for a specified period of time. And because that test costs time and money, many companies skip the certification.
Casi Frogman has an interesting way around the timing bezel. A dive mode where both hands go to12,and the minutes elapsed past 12 is your dive time,with a subdial changing into your clock. Pretty neat.
I dive with all of my watches pretty frequently and most are not ISO certified. My Sinn U50, Omega Seamaster 300 and CWC are all more than capable, despite not meeting some of the requirements. Funny enough I have had a ISO diver bracelet fail during a dive and it was a Seiko Tuna. Thankfully I was at the bottom anyway and felt it as soon as it detached from my wrist.
Great video. Not sure why you were using a watch with a 24 hour bezel to illustrate how an elapsed time bezel works though. I have not dived for a few years, but i used to wear a Seiko Turtle quite similar to that one (gilt hands, indices and bezel markings).
Someone else mentioned that. I’m confident that my viewers can figure out 5 minute intervals, even on a GMT bezel, but you’re correct - a regular bezel would have been more straightforward. Glad that you enjoyed the video!
It may not be a "diver's watch", but my Casio Blue Duro has been on several dives, as deep at 100', since I bought it. At the price I won't be too upset if it craps out on me and it's a great looking watch.
Thanks for this great information ! I bought a Duro for all the craze around it (and I’m a Casio fanboy) and I’m not planning to use it for diving anyway 😄
Nothing wrong with a Duro but unfortunately I am sensitive to the battery and my arm aches, other than that when I did wear it I had real watch people acknowledge it when in company
I don't dive but I am hard on watches (broken several of them). I use the divebezel multiple times a day. I like chronographs even more but usually they are less waterproof and less sturdy. Divewatches are the best allround sturdy watch, not only for divers.
4:00 that's not a dive bezel, it's a GMT. And it's worth pointing out ND limits for sport divers is just over 50M. And thermal shock test isn't relevant if you are diving in the caribbean- nor will a corrosion test be a big deal, open circuit dives are generally limited to around 90 minutes max and then your watch is going in the rinse tank- you can get a lot of dives in before the equivant of 80 hours, and I have never had anything corrode except the springs in spring bars. I have been sport diving with most of the dive watches I own- from a Chris Ward Makaira Pro to a Tissot - BTW that Vostok is a super compressor case, it can handle something like 800M, there is a hydro test of one under insane pressure here on RUclips somewhere. Unless you are diving for COMEX, certification means very little. About the only watches you show that I wouldnt dive with are the Casio (buttons will push in, LCD can blank out) and the Invicta (quality concerns). People that wear around Submariners but have never even been diving in a resort course or anything deeper than a swimming pool are way overpaying for what they need in terms of capability.
Thermal shock is absolutely relevant. They aren't testing at those temps because they think you will be diving in very cold water necessarily, but there is still a huge temperature swing between even "warm" ocean water and "I set my watch on my chair in the sun for a few hours" kind of thing.
Bronze typically develops a patina that protects the watch. The exception is divers or workers who work under abrasive conditions that wear off the patina, and then bronze cases can oxidize and pit. Look at any old Russian chrome-plated bronze watch used by a mechanic and you’ll see huge pitting. But I was talking about a couple of Chinese watches I had. Leaving a fingerprint in humid conditions attracted enough moisture to make fingerprint-shaped rust stains. Cheap stainless steel cutlery does the same.
One thing you forgot to mention is that Omega uses Metas and now, so does Tudor! Therefore, along with its own testing methods, this is a ‘second’ certification, certifying the watches reliability, durability, waterproofness and ‘accuracy’ during these testing methods. I can assure you that Omega’s ‘twice’ tested certifications are ‘more’ than what ISO requires. I had to point that out because you said that Omega and Rolex are so well made, it’s well known and they don’t bother with ISO testing. It’s misleading to people watching this video who may not know! Rolex and Omega go ‘way’ beyond ISO testing. Diving is in their heritage, they take great pride in their divers watches and these watches are their bread-and-butter! Also, as you pointed out, Omega was the ‘first’ commercially available ‘dive’ watch that could be used for saturation diving and maintain the watches functionalities accurately and durably! That was 1929. Most Rolex enthusiasts are mistaken that Rolex invented the dive watch! Hans Wilsdorf, founder of Rolex, purchased ‘oyster’ technology from two inventors in I believe, 1926. It was the first waterproof watch but was only worn around an English swimmers neck as she swam the English Channel. It was not ‘submerged!’ In 1929 as I mentioned, Omega ‘invented’ the ‘first’ ‘fully’ submersible saturation watch! Period! As you pointed out, there is ‘water-resistant’ and ‘saturation’ watches! There is a difference and people should know! Your video was very good and informative. I just wanted to add this.
Metas follows ISO standard 2281 for water resistance, not 6425. Do NOT dive with a non-ISO 6425 watch. Ideally, for the safest experience, use a dive computer, but an ISO 2281 watch is absolutely NOT guaranteed to function at the rated depth.
Nonsense. METAS is its own testing system. Each Omega water resistance test includes testing the watch at 125% of stated depth, being taken out of the water and heated to 40C, and then a drop of cold water put on the glass to test for condensation. They’re absolutely dive-worthy.
I have sort of given up on getting a Seiko Turtle because I struggle to justify the price even though I do need some of the toughness for my job which has some lung diving and a lot of manual work. I even found a nice Vostok Amphibia I could settle for. But damn the Turtle is a good looking watch….
10:08 this is a common misconception. There is no ISO certification for 6425. ISO does not provide certification for any of their standards. ISO certification can be provided by independent certification body, but no one certifies 6425. We can only assume companies are compliant if they're marking their watches as "driver's". If anyone is skeptical, just email the manufacturer and ask them for a copy of their ISO 6425 accreditation. I've done this years ago and not a single company had any.
“The watch is ISO 6425 certified” refers to the fact that the watch passed the International Organization for Standardization tests, completed by a laboratory. The certification is issued by a testing lab. The manufacturer will never be able to provide a copy of their ISO 6425 certification because the factory doesn’t pass a diving test! There are ISO certifications that factories can obtain for reliable manufacturing techniques and processes, such as ISO 9001.
You hinted china watches are from lower grade stainless steel and corrode in salt water. Does that mean Invicta corrodes? I can't find any info on them
Good video sir. 2 things i think you should mention. 1) if you want to wear your watch when doing water sports with high impact you need 200m wr as the impact on the surface of the water during a fall may result in high pressure on the watch. It is stated by casio for their models. 2) Your watch is water resistant as long as your gaskets work. An iso divers watch with the same gaskets for 10 years is more likely to leak. In fact most manufacturers recomend to change the gaskets every 3 years. As for me, i do snorkelling,some water sports and lots of playing with the sand and small rocks with my child so i use a casio mtd 1053(50$ -200m wr-ISO 2281 ). The dangers for a watch in such enviroment are many, so i love the piece of mind a cheap tough watch gives me. I take the scraches on it's cheap mineral crystal as battle scars while i would go crazy if that happened to my more expensive "desk divers". Cheers!
I own a Seamaster300 (because i like the look of it), and all my other mechanical watches have a screw down crown. When i go into water i usually use one of mine Gshock 5000 series - i'm not rich enough to risk a luxury watch on that.
Hobby divers no longer use traditional diving watches. I have never ever seen anyone using those but me ... For some reason I still have mine on my wrist (a cheap Citizen automatic watch) and I turn the bezel to show the time I jumped into the water. The watch has been on my wrist over 100 feet. I don't think we'll ever go 100 meters deep. Actually, I use the watch more to measure parking time... Sometimes I have tried to calculate the used diving time with the help of a watch, but when diving you have to take several things into account, so a diving watch is useless and only brings problems. The dive computer shows everything essential on one screen, and when you look at it, you immediately see what is important.
Since you already own a dive watch, surely there’s no harm in using it as a backup to the computer during the dive. By the way, you can set the “triangle” to the *end* of the planned bottom-time (rather than the beginning of the dive), to allow you very quick “at a glance” indication that you must begin to ascend.
On my last video (Seiko Turtle review) I mentioned that most divers use dive computers instead of watches these days, so I didn’t repeat it this video. But of course you’re correct. Nonetheless, I love having super-tough mechanical watches. Glad to hear you still use yours during your dives! Several others have said the same.
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For everyone leaving a good dive watch on the shore (or in the drawer) and taking only the dive computer: have mercy on the watch! If you listen carefully you’ll hear your dive watch crying, accompanied with muttering: “but I’ve been trained to dive right from my mechanical birth, why isn’t s/he taking me?!?” 😢
Seriously now, a good dive watch can simply be used as backup to the computer, allowing you “at a glance” to see when to start ascending, assuming you adjust the “triangle” to the planned bottom-time, rather than to the start of the dive.
mechanics suck
I agree witrh you! Computer on one wrist, watch on the other.
@@ceebee-j5x Some famous lines of dive watches are quartz, for example the Citizen Promaster Dive based on Eco-Drive is solar powered quartz (solar, so no battery change for a long long time)
Dive watches just look better than a dive computer.
I've got terrible luck with dive comps, suunto zoop and mares puck failed on me mid dive (suunto started reading 10m deeper than actual depth, and the puck gave me the boot error screen)
So I always have my turtle on my wrist as backup - redundancies are important! as well as knowing your dive plan in case your hardware decides to brick on you
Met a guy with a rolex submariner in komodo about a decade back. At the safety stop, he was messing with buoyancy and he got the watch caught in his BCD and it subsequently floated down. He tried going after it, but DM caught him and checked his psi, it was low enough that he had to hang on to him and stop him from diving down to grab it. They got into a punch up on the boat. That was our 3rd dive, and there were no spare tanks to make a rescue search. Went back out the next day to search for it at first light, but no luck. Guy was inconsolable, plus was banned from any further dives due to him attacking the DM. Don't dive with your luxury dive watches friends.
I guess those tugging test that is part of iso serve actual purpose, which rolex think is below them
Maybe he learned to take a Casio Duro next time.
@@folksurvival100% The Duro can hang with the best of Rolex.
@@chrisp.5272 Yeah or a Citizen Promaster Diver if you want better lume and ISO certification and if you lose it you're not losing thousands (and time on a waiting list).
@@syeikhsyamil6761 Exactly, Rolex doesn't carry the ISO certification because it would never pass the test.
9:54 "Do not pour running water directly from the faucet" - Every time after swimming in salt water in my Casio AE1500WH I thoroughly rinse it under tap water to remove salt water. Been running perfectly for years now.
That was a warning from the Seiko 5 manual with a push-pull crown. Your Casio doesn’t have one.
@@WondersofWatchdom Thanks for the clarification.
Casios are tough like Nokia
Took my Casio Duro for a swim during a visit to a swimming pool. The Duro is a thing of beauty. I'm wearing it right now as I type this.
I'm not a diver, but I wear my Citizen Promasters (auto and Eco-Drive) almost every day, for gardening, swimming, everything, because I don't feel like worrying about my watch. It does everything and is reliable. That's what I expect from my divers.
… and my g-Shocks too :-)
You're good to go! My wife and I regularly dive (we're certified) with the Eco-Drive versions and they do well!
Orient star diver. Check its lume. @@m39fan
99% of people who purchase dive watches are not certified divers and will take them off when they wash their hands. That being said, no one today who is a certified diver depends solely upon a dive watch and very few people even wear them diving.
I remember when Timex said that while their Ironman Watch purchasers may enjoy biking, swimming or cycling, almost none of them have done a triathlon.
Nonetheless, people appreciate a tough, durable watch. And many divers have stated that they still wear their dive watches as a backup.
I wear my gshock on every dive. Not a dive watch, but I wear it.
I rarely take my watch off, shower in it, wash the dishes. Swim in it. Wash the cars. This applies to my Rolex, Seiko’s and Tudors. If they can’t hack it they ain’t worth having.
I don't wanna get soap in my nice watches, but I would swim with them. I guess it's all about the style.
@@Yorkshiremadmick good news a 10 euro Casio can handle all of this
I am using $70 Vostok Amphibia for snorkeling from the year 2016. Couldn't care for the "certification" less. It is perfect diver watch.
It's certified for diving in Russia by the Russian military and standards organisation. Also by being fastened to the outside of Russian nuclear submarines by Russian sailors proving a point.
My first dive watch was a $45 Casio Duro(the "Marlin") and I wore it on over 800 dives. Mostly as a backup to the computer, or simply force of habit. I still have it but it's long since been retired. It has withstood a horrendous beating and it shows. I have an Omega Seamaster as well, but it's far too pretty(and expensive) to subject to that kind of torture. My current active diver is a Citizen Promaster but it's getting older every year and I'll soon be looking for a replacement for it. p.s. at 3:45 that's a GMT bezel, which is bi-directional, and serves a completely different function.
I started working as a commercial diver in early '99. I've only ever used a watch as a backup, and as a actual piece of equipment I've always chosen ISO rated watches - I did buy a Sub, a Sinn, a Rado Captain Cook, a Squale etc - however my working watches were (I rarely dive for work now) always ISO rated. My 2c - avoid the hype. Citizen and Seiko's ISO rated divers are more than you will ever need.
Just a note that Sinn follows German DIN standards which are equivalent to ISO rating for divers.
Do you recommend quartz or mechanical?
@@psdelport8893 Quartz for work, Auto for play.
@@psdelport8893absolutely quartz lol 😂
Comm divers don’t wear watches during dives. Time keeping is the dive supervisor’s responsibility
I have a few ISO watches, but when I hit the water, I will use either a Citizen ProMaster EcoDrive ($180), or a Casio Duro ($50). There's no way I'd risk taking a multi-thousand dollar watch into an environment where anything can happen, and a breakage or a loss, could be a huge hit to the wallet.
You are aware that the Promaster is ISO rated?
You can take citizen challenge NY0129 that is ISO and its cheap
I took my casio duro for a dive in Guam with no issues. I would never take my Breitling Superocean to do the same thing.
Absolutely a smart move.
Absolutely a smart move. Though I have to wonder how many of those insanely-priced Swiss dive watches are actually ISO compliant.
Thank you! I’m a diving instructor for many many years and I tell people you can’t dive with a certain watch and they argue about WR. I do use a dive watch as my second device and have had some fail on me. I learned the hard way that 200 WR means nothing. In my early life I was a saturation diver, as I moved away from that job due to having a family I turned to being an instructor of recreational diving, I like the simplicity of using a watch to dive with but you have to have the right watch. I wear a sub, but there are plenty of nice watches out there that qualify as a diving watch, just do your research. P.s. some watches do not have “divers 300m” on them but are still divers watch’s such as the sub.
Sub? Rolex Submariner?
Any time anyone sees a Rolex they wonder if it’s real LOL
@@Mark-sd7fc You are wrong, only small-minded people think that most people couldn't give a shit.
@@c4prantik No the vostock submarine. :}
no divers actually use dive watches these days, diving computers are far more useful in all cases
The timing bezel feature isn't for timing the dive - although it can. It is for timing the duration - at depth - for the purpose of informing the diver to resurface before the necessity to decompress. Hence the reason Doxa, for example, provides the additional track of numerals on their bezels. That is one of the most common misperceptions of the rotating bezel's purpose.
Exactly. The bezel is to show when your dive expires, and time your subsequent ascent. When the dive bezel was first invented, dive times were strictly regulated by decompression tables. So before you started a dive, you knew exactly how long the dive was going to be before you even hit the water. When you descended you set your Bezel to 60-Divetime. (Example: For a 40 minute dive, you line up the minute hand to 60-40=20.) When your minute hand hits the 0 marker, that's when your bottom time is up. This is why the lume pip and big triangle is at the zero. When your minute hand lines up with the zero mark, you begin your controlled ascent and decompression/safety stops. That's why the first 10 to 15 minutes of some bezels are marked every minute where the rest of the watch isn't. You're not worried about elapsed dive time, you want to know when to start your ascent, and you want to control how many feet per minute, and how long your safety/decompression stop should be.
Well, that depends on how you use the watch, but yes, RBT (remaining bottom time- the phrase you were describing) is the most common inital use of the watch. And then timing hangs, or timing deco stops, and in some cases timing intervals when running stage bottles. And it's amazing how many watch manufacturers and youtube "watch experts" don't know this.
What’s funny odd that the Vostok he showed is probably the most water resistant and best for salt water scuba diving yet it’s the most affordable.lol
Ive got the cheaper komandirskie and it can go just about anywhere,cept diving of course.
@@EmeraldHill-vo1cs I have one, threw it on the timegrapher and it was running 0s/d, at least in two positions, problem is the bracelet is total crap. Put it on a NATO with heavy spring bars and it'll treat you right, but not me I hate acrylic glass.
Seriously, I had a Vostok Amphibia. It would fog up in the shower. lol. Sent it back for another one it also fogged up a lot. Even when going from Air conditioned house to outdoors.
Don’t wear any watch in the shower, that will kill any well sealed watch eventually if not immediately.
I have a Vostok Komandirskie which I used daily for 1.5 years can say it's reliable and well built but the glass is not scartch resistant as I would expect.
When in doubt, a G-Shock is your best friend.
Actually Casio is wishy-washy about that.
They say that as “a general rule, all G-SHOCK watches can be safely used for swimming, snorkelling, and other water activities at a depth of up to 200 meters.”
But then they say, “It's important to note that G-SHOCK watches are not designed for deep-sea diving and should not be used for activities such as scuba diving or free diving. The Master of G FROGMAN is a specialized diving watch designed specifically for scuba diving, and it is the most water-resistant model in the G-Shock line-up, ISO diver standard certified for water resistance up to 200-meter, including button operability underwater, making it the perfect companion for any diver.”
So you can dive with any G-shock, and it’s probably fine, but they aren’t taking responsibility if you do.
@@WondersofWatchdom
It’s for that reason I don’t own a g shock but rather a variety of more than capable Seiko and a Vostok g shock killers as batteries and electronics not required.
Yes, actually used by Navy SEAL's.
Gshock are barely rainproof these days
@@cmdrflint9115i'm wore my g shock to swim 3 time a week and also to fishing in saltwater, i never had water damage on any of my gshock, in fact my first gshock from 20 years ago still alive today with battery change
thanks, you've rekindled my love for my Citizen Promaster auto.
Thank you for clarifying. I haven't gone into the ocean since watching Jaws but it's good to know. My watches are mollycoddled like a Beverly Hills Pomeranian-- they are kept in their boxes and handled with kid gloves. A mallet doesn't go within 50 miles of them.
Appreciate taking the effort to explain them.
Being a lazy RUclips subscriber that I am, may ask for your clarification (You can also ignore mine for being lazy to look for it elsewhere 😆)
1. I came across message that not all watches need to be tested individually to be certified? Only randomly or some portion of the production unit will be tested?
2. When the watch is certified and it stated 200m water resistance, it means it must pass 300m static water pressure test, which is 50% more than the WR declaration on the watch?
Thank you!
Good questions!
Every watch is fully tested.
According to ISO, it’s always 125% of the stated rating. So, a 200M water resistance watch will be tested to 250M. They give that specific example. Another part of the pressure test I didn’t mention is that during the test, the crown or buttons are pressed sideways with a force of 5 newtons to ensure they don’t bend, break off or leak.
I believe for 'water resistant' rating a only sample of watches are tested, I've searched for more information on this (sample size etc. but can't find it). For ISO6425 (the 'diver's' rating) every single watch is tested. You can read the specs and testing yourself.
Thanks for that thorough explanation. I’d no idea so much involved.
I was a Dive instructor with over 1200 dives in my free time. I use a Seiko and Citizen Dive Watch without any problems. In my time in the 80ths they had only pro-dive watches later, they became mainstream.
Goes back to at least the 60's for Seiko. Not sure about Citizen. The first Citizen I bought for diving was the one with air integration that they discontinued, it had a sender that screwed into the first stage (and broke twice, that's another story)
I’ve taken my casio duro with me while snorkeling on vacation, used the bezel to make sure I came Back to shore on time, it was great.
Very useful information and well explained. Thank you, your videos never disappoint.
Fun story: I had a Seiko 5 (SRPD51) for 7 months, it went through everything, hard shocks and vibrations, water... Never had any problem with it. I also had Seiko 5 DressKX (SRPE53) for 12 months. It also went through everything without any problem. Then I had Seiko Turtle (SRP773) which is a certified dive watch. After 1 week of wearing it, it got hit by a ball (small kids were playing football and one of them shot it right at my watch) and even though it wasn't really a hard shot, the watch stopped working. All 3 watches had the same movement inside.
It was probably bad luck but the biggest problem with "automatic dive watches" is that they use the exact same movements as any other "normal" watches. I don't know about any brand, that would make any kind of special dive movements. So the watch durability comes down to your movement durability at the end, whether it's ISO certified or not. And mechanical/automatic watches will always be less durable than quartz.
Have to disagree.
Generally speaking, you’re right in saying that quartz movements are tougher than mechanical movements, all other things being equal (I did a video about this).
However, there are plenty of quartz watches by known brands with bands that routinely break, parts that fail and gaskets that leak. So, I definitely would not say that the durability of a watch comes down to the movement.
Also, a Seiko diver movement breaking because of being hit by a football is unusual (as you said, bad luck). They’re designed to take hits like this.
@@WondersofWatchdom Yeah, I agree with you. The case along with things like gaskets, spring bars and the strap/bracelet are very important to the overall durability. I just think that in terms of shock and vibrations resistance, the case can't do much in terms of durability. And since they use the same movements in "normal" watches and dive watches, you don't get a better shock resistant watch just because it's a certified diver. Just my humble opinion
Fascinating - thank you (and I now have yet another way to try to organise my collection!!)
7:54 My watches are mostly on NATOs as I nearly lost a couple of watches with springbar failure, it happened when I was climbing into the boat and I was so happy that it fell inside the boat
At 58, I've exclusively worn Casio watches, utilizing them for snorkeling and diving up to 30m depths without incident. Prior to each use, I verified their waterproofing and subsequently cleaned them with mild hand soap after exposure to seawater. Annual maintenance consisted of inspecting and conditioning the rubber seal. While underwater, I employed my torch to illuminate the time.
Thanks for your... deep dive... on this topic.
Thanks, Caruso! 😎
great video that fully explains what makes a divers watch a diver. My everyday watch is the Orient Triton/Neptune Divers shown near the end of the video, it takes a lot of punishment and just doesn't show it, a true tool watch.
Beautiful watch. Nice choice!
Great video, very informative. Citizen's Promaster diver series somehow feels like a big ommission as a watch that has been ISO tested and was endorsed by the U. S. marine corps.
I have a link to the promaster in the recommended watches list of this video. You’re right - an excellent watch.
That stainless Casio WHD 1A is sweet. I have the resin one only $20 too. Another great video! 👍
Why do i have a diver, i get asked this from time to time specially because we’re 1000 miles from any ocean, i tell them I use it for timing my burritos in the microwave, checking on the parking meter and occasionally sneaking into my neighbors swimming pool when they’re not home and I forget to remove my divers watch.
love your videos man! Keep it up for the good work. I have been watching repeatly like a Harry Potter marathon now LOL
Ahhhhhh!!!!! Real watch content…… such a relief 🥳🥳🥳🥹🥹🥹
Vostok is awesome. I saw some channel that tested actual water resistance and it went to something ridiculous like 800 meters before it popped. To think it is "just" Soviet tech and costs like 70 bucks is quite a thought. Love mine.
Totally agree. It’s been used for submarine rescue, and gone to space.
I made a video about the unique engineering.
My cheapo Invicta ProDiver ($59.95 when I bought it years ago on Amazon) is a great dive watch :D I'm not afraid to take it in the water, that's for sure.
I have dove with all my “dive” watches all the way down to 80 feet and had no issues. I just do it for fun not saying to do it. I’ve even taken a cheap Casio diver down and it still works great. Just clean them good after use in salt water.
4:05 - 4:12
You’ve got it backwards. If bumped or moved, you would read a shorter dive time, not a longer one, prompting you to surface sooner for safety purposes
The bezel can only be bumped to the left (counterclockwise). The result of that is a longer elapsed time showing.
Seiko turtle had got to be one of the greatest bang for your buck watches ever. Looks great and does exactly what it says on the tin.
I love my Samurai but I agree both these models are Good, the Turtle is always £25 cheaper for a comparable model Sammy and I must bit the bullet one day and get the Turtle model, to see how it wears and the cushion case would age more gracefully I would have thought with it's provenance and dings along the way.
Wow all those tests past! i will never look at my Seiko SKX 007 the same way again (;
Great Video (:
I’m confused as to why you would show a GMT bezel when talking about the details of a dive bezel.
I have never seen one of your videos before and i must say i really liked this one👍
Can I take my kamasu watch snorkelling wothout risking rust? I have put the watch in salt water before but i made sure as soon as I got back home, to soak the watch in bottled water in order to dissolved any salts left on the watch. I had no vissible issue with rush but i know the watch is not ISO certified. Can you give me some info regarding using the watch or not for snorkelling?
I can confirm that Orient uses marine grade stainless steel. When I was researching my Ray II video, I asked them.
@@WondersofWatchdom Good know. I will continue using the watch when I'll go snorkeling this summer. You had me worried there for a moment. Great stuff btw.
I was told the reason 100 or even 200m depth rating despite dives rarely exceeding 30 meters is due the types of pressure that are applied: just static pressure applied to the watch would apply if it were simply face up on the sea bed at 200meters, but dynamic pressures from the watch moving through and under the water at depth can multiply the pressure. Hope that makes sense 😊
Good video! I am not a diver but I like my Citizen diver watch (ISO certified). I also have a Vostok Amphibia. Not perfect but cool. 🕐⚙️🍸🙃
In the ninties I worked as a member of a NSW team. Funnily enough, we were issued a Timex Ironman for diving (and everything else). I think they were $45. I drooled over Subs, but the digital features of the Ironman were actually better for our use case.
Thanks for the instructive video. Although I was aware of nearly everything you said, I enjoyed the vid nevertheless.
Fine sand and waves will turn a lot of dive watches into coffee grinders for a week. I learned that the hard way.
I once brought my Invicta watch near a picture of a glass of water. It flooded immediately 😂
Am a diver who dives with 2 computers but i also wear one of my dive watches and also take an analog depth guage as backups
Swum in the sea daily to temps of 3C for 3 years with a casio f91. Unbelievably, it still works perfectly. Cost £10. Good watch if your budget is lower and it looks retro cool if you like that.
The fact that it’s inexpensive, and the design has been unchanged for so long, makes it even better IMHO.
There was a video in RUclips with some diving with one quite deep and not only did it survive, but it thrived
"...over 100 meters or more..." that's a great clarification lmao 🤣
Great video. Loved the little history bit too 👍
Nice summary of the standards and the markings that differentiate those standards! Your explanation of the reason for the one-way rotating bezel was seemingly a little contradictory and I think it could be stated more clearly.
All products are a compromise between features and cost. I understand that the Chinese watches I favor are not true "diver's" watches because it is much more likely that my budget will be limited than I will have money to blow on dive trips and true Diver's Watches.
Love my Omega Seamaster
I have not tested the Seestern -Doxa Homage, or the Steeldive Rolex Homage, but read on the internet that these Chinese watches (with Seiko movements), can be used for diving. Can you kindly confirm or otherwise?
That’s literally what the video explains.
@@WondersofWatchdom I watched the video, but I asked in case you or your followers have direct experience with the specific Chinese brands that I have mentioned.
I used to dive for engineering surveys I rocked my Vostok still got it and still works 👌
One key difference between certified and non-certified dive watches is that for a non-certified watch (i.e. 200 m, but no "Diver"), only the product range needs to be certified to withstand a pressure of 20 bar, whereas for certified 200m divers, every single watch will be tested to function at 220 m for a specified period of time. And because that test costs time and money, many companies skip the certification.
Casi Frogman has an interesting way around the timing bezel.
A dive mode where both hands go to12,and the minutes elapsed past 12 is your dive time,with a subdial changing into your clock.
Pretty neat.
Excellent job.
Enjoy your travels, the pool in your open clip looks familiar…Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit Hotel Bangkok. Very nice!
Exactly right! Great hotel, loved it.
6:20 anyone knows what watch is that? It looks interesting
I dive with all of my watches pretty frequently and most are not ISO certified. My Sinn U50, Omega Seamaster 300 and CWC are all more than capable, despite not meeting some of the requirements. Funny enough I have had a ISO diver bracelet fail during a dive and it was a Seiko Tuna. Thankfully I was at the bottom anyway and felt it as soon as it detached from my wrist.
Which part of the bracelet failed?
@@dustycups pin and collar pin was inserted backwards
I've bought a Seiko PADI and used it while scuba diving many times
Very interesting. Thanks
Very informative video! I love my King Turtle (though the cyclops on my model is unnecessary). Will have to test it in a hot tub in the near future.
Great video. Not sure why you were using a watch with a 24 hour bezel to illustrate how an elapsed time bezel works though. I have not dived for a few years, but i used to wear a Seiko Turtle quite similar to that one (gilt hands, indices and bezel markings).
Using a GMT bezel when explaining a dive time bezel.🤦♂️ I’m being overly critical, overall this was a very good explanation.
Someone else mentioned that. I’m confident that my viewers can figure out 5 minute intervals, even on a GMT bezel, but you’re correct - a regular bezel would have been more straightforward. Glad that you enjoyed the video!
I have my first submariner rolex when 16 and dive for 20 years with it, until water began entering at 40 mts
You’re the best watch channel! Thank you for the explanation.
This feels like a video for someone Who is purchasing their very first watch ever. I feel most watch people already know all this info
Modern GMT Master II considered a dive watch, or certified? I assume the sub is?
thank you
You're welcome
It may not be a "diver's watch", but my Casio Blue Duro has been on several dives, as deep at 100', since I bought it. At the price I won't be too upset if it craps out on me and it's a great looking watch.
Thanks for this great information !
I bought a Duro for all the craze around it (and I’m a Casio fanboy) and I’m not planning to use it for diving anyway 😄
Nothing wrong with a Duro but unfortunately I am sensitive to the battery and my arm aches, other than that when I did wear it I had real watch people acknowledge it when in company
I don't dive but I am hard on watches (broken several of them). I use the divebezel multiple times a day. I like chronographs even more but usually they are less waterproof and less sturdy. Divewatches are the best allround sturdy watch, not only for divers.
I am a commercial diver and my dive watch isn’t a diver. It’s a cheap Casio.
Very informative video different from the norm
Thank you for a great video.
How does my Orient Mako 2 stack up? (I don’t even swim often.)
4:00 that's not a dive bezel, it's a GMT. And it's worth pointing out ND limits for sport divers is just over 50M. And thermal shock test isn't relevant if you are diving in the caribbean- nor will a corrosion test be a big deal, open circuit dives are generally limited to around 90 minutes max and then your watch is going in the rinse tank- you can get a lot of dives in before the equivant of 80 hours, and I have never had anything corrode except the springs in spring bars. I have been sport diving with most of the dive watches I own- from a Chris Ward Makaira Pro to a Tissot - BTW that Vostok is a super compressor case, it can handle something like 800M, there is a hydro test of one under insane pressure here on RUclips somewhere.
Unless you are diving for COMEX, certification means very little. About the only watches you show that I wouldnt dive with are the Casio (buttons will push in, LCD can blank out) and the Invicta (quality concerns). People that wear around Submariners but have never even been diving in a resort course or anything deeper than a swimming pool are way overpaying for what they need in terms of capability.
Thermal shock is absolutely relevant. They aren't testing at those temps because they think you will be diving in very cold water necessarily, but there is still a huge temperature swing between even "warm" ocean water and "I set my watch on my chair in the sun for a few hours" kind of thing.
Extremely informative video! Well done!
Than you
I like and own dive watch bcuz the versatility it possesses; formal, casual, sport, etc.
what kind of watches are rusted by a fingerprint?..
Bronze ones.......
@@saintsmccastle3521 bronze cannot rust
Bronze typically develops a patina that protects the watch. The exception is divers or workers who work under abrasive conditions that wear off the patina, and then bronze cases can oxidize and pit. Look at any old Russian chrome-plated bronze watch used by a mechanic and you’ll see huge pitting.
But I was talking about a couple of Chinese watches I had. Leaving a fingerprint in humid conditions attracted enough moisture to make fingerprint-shaped rust stains. Cheap stainless steel cutlery does the same.
10:42 have a vostock, it took water had to repair it twice
One thing you forgot to mention is that Omega uses Metas and now, so does Tudor! Therefore, along with its own testing methods, this is a ‘second’ certification, certifying the watches reliability, durability, waterproofness and ‘accuracy’ during these testing methods. I can assure you that Omega’s ‘twice’ tested certifications are ‘more’ than what ISO requires. I had to point that out because you said that Omega and Rolex are so well made, it’s well known and they don’t bother with ISO testing. It’s misleading to people watching this video who may not know! Rolex and Omega go ‘way’ beyond ISO testing. Diving is in their heritage, they take great pride in their divers watches and these watches are their bread-and-butter! Also, as you pointed out, Omega was the ‘first’ commercially available ‘dive’ watch that could be used for saturation diving and maintain the watches functionalities accurately and durably! That was 1929. Most Rolex enthusiasts are mistaken that Rolex invented the dive watch! Hans Wilsdorf, founder of Rolex, purchased ‘oyster’ technology from two inventors in I believe, 1926. It was the first waterproof watch but was only worn around an English swimmers neck as she swam the English Channel. It was not ‘submerged!’ In 1929 as I mentioned, Omega ‘invented’ the ‘first’ ‘fully’ submersible saturation watch! Period! As you pointed out, there is ‘water-resistant’ and ‘saturation’ watches! There is a difference and people should know! Your video was very good and informative. I just wanted to add this.
Excellent point, thank you for mentioning it.
I briefly covered METAS testing in my Omega Seamaster video but not to the same level of detail.
Metas follows ISO standard 2281 for water resistance, not 6425. Do NOT dive with a non-ISO 6425 watch. Ideally, for the safest experience, use a dive computer, but an ISO 2281 watch is absolutely NOT guaranteed to function at the rated depth.
Nonsense. METAS is its own testing system. Each Omega water resistance test includes testing the watch at 125% of stated depth, being taken out of the water and heated to 40C, and then a drop of cold water put on the glass to test for condensation. They’re absolutely dive-worthy.
Great video. Thanks.
A Sinn U50 is on my wish/lottery win list. … I do a serious amount of dishes!
Excellent class! 🌟
I have sort of given up on getting a Seiko Turtle because I struggle to justify the price even though I do need some of the toughness for my job which has some lung diving and a lot of manual work. I even found a nice Vostok Amphibia I could settle for. But damn the Turtle is a good looking watch….
10:08 this is a common misconception. There is no ISO certification for 6425. ISO does not provide certification for any of their standards.
ISO certification can be provided by independent certification body, but no one certifies 6425. We can only assume companies are compliant if they're marking their watches as "driver's".
If anyone is skeptical, just email the manufacturer and ask them for a copy of their ISO 6425 accreditation. I've done this years ago and not a single company had any.
“The watch is ISO 6425 certified” refers to the fact that the watch passed the International Organization for Standardization tests, completed by a laboratory. The certification is issued by a testing lab.
The manufacturer will never be able to provide a copy of their ISO 6425 certification because the factory doesn’t pass a diving test!
There are ISO certifications that factories can obtain for reliable manufacturing techniques and processes, such as ISO 9001.
I work in water, so cheers for that topic 👌🏻👍🏻
Wouldn't you want the watch to break off at a certain weight? Or at least have an easy way to remove it?
Welcome back boss!
You hinted china watches are from lower grade stainless steel and corrode in salt water. Does that mean Invicta corrodes? I can't find any info on them
Good video sir. 2 things i think you should mention. 1) if you want to wear your watch when doing water sports with high impact you need 200m wr as the impact on the surface of the water during a fall may result in high pressure on the watch. It is stated by casio for their models. 2) Your watch is water resistant as long as your gaskets work. An iso divers watch with the same gaskets for 10 years is more likely to leak. In fact most manufacturers recomend to change the gaskets every 3 years. As for me, i do snorkelling,some water sports and lots of playing with the sand and small rocks with my child so i use a casio mtd 1053(50$ -200m wr-ISO 2281 ). The dangers for a watch in such enviroment are many, so i love the piece of mind a cheap tough watch gives me. I take the scraches on it's cheap mineral crystal as battle scars while i would go crazy if that happened to my more expensive "desk divers". Cheers!
Worn at citizen eco dive for years. Before that citizen promaster..never had a drama..never been past 12/15 metres.
Very informative 👌! Thanks!
I own a Seamaster300 (because i like the look of it), and all my other mechanical watches have a screw down crown. When i go into water i usually use one of mine Gshock 5000 series - i'm not rich enough to risk a luxury watch on that.
Hobby divers no longer use traditional diving watches. I have never ever seen anyone using those but me ... For some reason I still have mine on my wrist (a cheap Citizen automatic watch) and I turn the bezel to show the time I jumped into the water. The watch has been on my wrist over 100 feet. I don't think we'll ever go 100 meters deep.
Actually, I use the watch more to measure parking time...
Sometimes I have tried to calculate the used diving time with the help of a watch, but when diving you have to take several things into account, so a diving watch is useless and only brings problems. The dive computer shows everything essential on one screen, and when you look at it, you immediately see what is important.
Same here...so tired of the hype. Divers use dive computers.but these are still fun to wear.
Since you already own a dive watch, surely there’s no harm in using it as a backup to the computer during the dive.
By the way, you can set the “triangle” to the *end* of the planned bottom-time (rather than the beginning of the dive), to allow you very quick “at a glance” indication that you must begin to ascend.
On my last video (Seiko Turtle review) I mentioned that most divers use dive computers instead of watches these days, so I didn’t repeat it this video. But of course you’re correct.
Nonetheless, I love having super-tough mechanical watches.
Glad to hear you still use yours during your dives! Several others have said the same.
@@WondersofWatchdom I’ll watch your Seiko Turtle video later. Cool
All of my watches have "DIVERS 200m" on them. Not only do I not dive, but I really don't like them getting wet when it rains.
Have a little faith.
I have Casio W168 and it is the perfect watch for me. Swimming and snorkling for few hours or anything like that was never a problem.
It's because it's a casio lol
If casio says 30m wr it means 100m wr literally under water
I can't say the same thing for other brands
Wow what a good video.