First I will say, that's a great design. BUTTTTTT no one is talking about your incredible grasshopper skills!!! That's insane! I use Rhino daily and grasshopper ever so often at work at a yacht company, but you're on another level! Very impressed.
@@g45h96 Grasshopper is the wire diagram dynamic modeling tool that he’s using, but the software is called Rhinoceros 3D, grasshopper is just built into it. I use rhino every day, but I’ve yet to really learn or use grasshopper. Crazy powerful tool once you learn it though
Hi - suggested improvement; add a dust costver to the main gear: main gear hole at 03:41, need to be slightly bigger; grey cap at 03:48 may have a wall that reach the below grey item. In this way, you will have a dust proof cylinder and the black gear will also be able to be greased inside; moving better and protected.
I had designed something like this when I first got a 3D printer and then I sat down and figured out the time to print (MY time) and cost of materials and realized it was cheaper to just buy an actual router lift and print some attachments for it like a better dust hood and templates. Aluminum is just so much more durable than plastic or plastic embedded with aluminum powder - aka the metal version of MDF. 3D printing has its place in the shop and while this is impressive from a 3D design standpoint it's ultimately just a silly waste when a much better product can be had for roughly the same money.
Thats a great idea, especially with the low cost / high power magnets you can get. Your comment made me rethink a design choice I made for a pretty important project lol
Man, this is so great tool. I will definitely have a look at your shop. Thank you. Also i am also an everyday user of Rhino, but your grasshopper skills seemfar higher than mine. Would love to learn more grasshopper. But need the good teacher... Wish you the best.
Klasse Fräserlift, gut gedruckt ist das eine sehr stabile Konstruktion, Habe mir gleich neue Version heruntergeladen. Werde Heute anfangen mit dem Drucken.
пц какой-то. с одной стороны первоклассная инженерная работа, с другой стороны куча потраченного времени на полную хрень: нет нормальной аспирации, фрезер будет перегреваться и забиваться пылью - долго не проживет, лифт будет со временем клинить, огромный перерасход материалов и времени. мне хватило для подобного лифта двух болтов м8 и 3 гаек и 15мин работы. тут же неделю проектировать, несколько дней печатать, потом снова проектировать и еще печатать. ну нахер.
@@TheShura2 от части согласен с вами Но я как инженер понимаю его. И первоначально это всё таки прототипы, перед производством. Все выше сказанные не достатки могут встретиться в данной работе. Но как по мне автор хотел показать свои способности не только инженера но и дизайнера. Ваш вариант без спорно работоспособен , но красив ли он так же как его? А получить удовольствие от собственно созданного устройства во время работы с ним по мне без ценно
How do you not have more subscribers? I honestly once thought I wanted to start a channel but looking at your work, the time and effort you put in. the amazing projects and editing. i just don't think I have something to offer. THEN to see you only have this many subscribers, is wild to me. You are doing amazing work my friend. keep it up I am a huge fan!!!
This is really great, nice work! These are the types of things that I like 3D printing for. Printing figurines can be cool but this definitely takes the cake in my opinion. I've always wondered if it would be tough to make the height adjustment come out the side, attach a motor to it (or an old drill gun), and hook it up to a switch. That way you can have a button on the side of the router table that operates height adjustment. Thanks for sharing!
I've been wanting to get into 3d printing, but it seems most are in the hobby so they can mess around and print knickknacks rather than "useful" items. something like this might put me over the top.
That's what i'm curious about. PLA is pretty sensitive to warmer temps. So much so, that if you put something in your car during the summer it softens and deforms.
Hey, this is a very nice video and I think it's a great design. Just a small hint for next time: maybe you should put some notes in the video explaining what kind of optimization you are doing, so the viewer can better understand what you are doing.
You've inspired me to learn Grasshopper and I have to say -- your definitions are a mess >.< I strongly recommend implementing some grouping and 'good practices', it makes coming back to your code so much more pleasant. Anyways, GH is such a powerful tool, after a month of daily practice I still feel like I've barely scratched the surface of what's possible. I never considered it as a 3D printing design environment before I saw your videos - so THANK YOU for that!
Man! A few more ideas. 1. To make the block with gears more rigid, you need to make an analogue of the bearing, not with balls. Something like sliding, with lubrication. Make the shaft on which the small bearing is located longer. Add top and bottom on the cylinder. And in the case, in the upper and lower parts, also make holes. The shaft will be clamped between these holes. And will not "hang out" to the left and to the right. If it is possible to process the mating surfaces of the shaft and the hole by cutting (turning from a drill and several clamps will also work), or at least with sandpaper - the plastic will become very smooth (ps do not forget to leave an allowance for processing, 0.1 - 0.3 mm will be enough) . 2. If you need to firmly fix the router in the device, think about a metal collar, with a screw, for ventilation or plumbing pipes with a diameter of 90-150 mm. You need to make (preferably 2) a cylinder (or rather a pipe), with a diameter of 1-2 mm more than the router, with a cut along the entire height, then insert the router into it and put on the clamp. A metal clamp, when tightened, will be able to clamp not only such a small, but also a healthy milling cutter (with a power of 2-3 kW). As I said, it is better to make 2 such "clamps", top and bottom. How to combine the "clamp" with the lifting device .... you're an engineer!) 3. For the lifting device, it may be worth using a different thread profile (thrust, trapezoidal, ...)
This version 2 looks great, will give it a try but I have just competed and using version 1 with great results. Will wait till or if I get problems thx again. Plans now include hardware list this is just getting better will keep supporting you 😀
Where did you source all your hardware from? Mines becoming more expensive than buying an all metal one as there's a ton of bits that are just 1 quantity and odd sized bearings etc
I saw the fence video before this, and my conclusion is that you should build the vacuum system in this element. You just need an opening in the external wall, and it doesn't matter if the inner slide blocks it while you change the tool. You could also make the yellow pads thicker and build some inner channels to pull a vacuum trough. The best thing about the vacuum pads, is that will pull air from the motor too, cooling and preventing saw dust ever getting in, and will not mix with the vaseline you used on your inner slide.
Génial encore une évolution, et une bien belle évolution. A quand une production des grosses pièces des différentes kits en plastique ou aluminium ? Car pour sûr je serai client. Bonne continuation
Nice....tried to go look at the plans but it appears this simpler version of the router lift is no longer available. I see the newer, more complex ones but I would have preferred this one for my use.
Not only does selling digital downloads go against the very core of the maker community foundation, but 99% of the time a quick Internet search will turn up the same or similar designs that are available for free. I found CAD files for multiple versions of an electronic, motor driven router lift just like this, including two that were 6-8 years old. Hopefully the US can bring their laws into the 21rst century sooner than later
I printed myself a big collet chuck for this. My dust collector is beneath the surface, also vents the router. I planned to use the original gear hight adjustment but just kept sliding it manually.
Incredible build. How much time does one of these projects take you start to finish. I'm sure there are many trial and errors, failed prints, etc. Great work!!
Really nice update! Is it stable enough? The router doesn't flex in the holder when pushing wood against it? Also for next version, the locking feature could perhaps be accessible from the top like some of the top brands?
Plastic is well sufficient for router table. I made simple plate where I can just attach my Makita and it's been working without any issues at all. It's all about infill, perimeters and correct material. I made it from simple PLA as it's very rigid material.
Very nice & great design changes. You should try a generous portion of dry lubricant such as graphite powder, your wet lube will be quite the mess fairly quickly and may cause unwanted binding or sticking. In the least it would be less gooey and smoother operation.
You have such GLORIOUS supports, are those modelled manually, or something your slicer software does for you? Great project, thanks for sharing! I already have a pretty good commercial router table, but this video made me think that maybe one isn’t enough… :-)
Thank you, I used prusa slicer and cura 4.4 in this project. For prusa kept default settings for supports for cura changed pattern to lines, density 40%, 0.3 tolerance from bottom 0.2 from top (for the second print)
It just misses one thing. @11:45 you are using two spanners and as we all know that's a bugger to use. Why not design a spanner that will lock in the pocket below it? perhaps a locking pin in the middle for added strength?
JessEm rout-r-lift: $219 Canadian ... This, $40 US ($55 Canadian), about $40 of filament and about $50 of hardware = $145 ... I think that the aluminum plate, all metal construction and peace of mind knowing that it is perfect and far more durable make the JessEm worth the extra $74
What is the size of the plate and the router guide to make the hole for the plate? I just want to know if I can print all the parts in my Ender 3 Pro printer.
Great work, I love the design!.. I know you say its a temporary solution but it looks pretty solid to me. Can you give an update on how this thing has been going after prolonged use?
Holy crap, this was designed in GRASSHOPPER OF ALL THINGS? Great for being parametric to the last detail, I’ll give you that. But talk about spaghetti.
Great ideas! 80% there. Why not use low cost ball screw kit instead of printed threads? Low cost linear bearing and bar race too. Minimize the parts printed. Maximize accuracy. Have a world class router lift of your own.
Hmm. I might actually update my current simple plate with this. Are cad models included as I definitely would like to keep my current plate sizing? Stl's are annoying to edit if needed.
First I will say, that's a great design. BUTTTTTT no one is talking about your incredible grasshopper skills!!! That's insane! I use Rhino daily and grasshopper ever so often at work at a yacht company, but you're on another level! Very impressed.
Is grasshopper the work flow/modeling software he was using? I was super interested in that.
@@g45h96 Grasshopper is the wire diagram dynamic modeling tool that he’s using, but the software is called Rhinoceros 3D, grasshopper is just built into it. I use rhino every day, but I’ve yet to really learn or use grasshopper. Crazy powerful tool once you learn it though
Hi - suggested improvement; add a dust costver to the main gear: main gear hole at 03:41, need to be slightly bigger; grey cap at 03:48 may have a wall that reach the below grey item. In this way, you will have a dust proof cylinder and the black gear will also be able to be greased inside; moving better and protected.
Can I just buy this from you. This looks amazing. And the colour choices are spot on. You're a serious talent.
people like yourself will change the world!
Freaking amazing. This is what 3d printing is all about.
Just found this video by accident. Holy hell, you are a very talented guy. This is awesome engineering.
I had designed something like this when I first got a 3D printer and then I sat down and figured out the time to print (MY time) and cost of materials and realized it was cheaper to just buy an actual router lift and print some attachments for it like a better dust hood and templates. Aluminum is just so much more durable than plastic or plastic embedded with aluminum powder - aka the metal version of MDF. 3D printing has its place in the shop and while this is impressive from a 3D design standpoint it's ultimately just a silly waste when a much better product can be had for roughly the same money.
thank you, please share a link of the product
Absolutely incredible, i applaud your thoroughness and quality of the build. Your makers skill are off the chart
Nice use of 3D printing. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
how anyone uses grasshopper like that is beyond me. incredible!
A beautiful and efficient device definitely ! It deserves a better protection and dust collection system…
i rarely comment , but you are genius and deserve like ! and subscribe ! your design and printing skills are amazing
Incredibly clean design and build. I like this a lot.
absolutely amazing!
ever thought about using magnets for the dustcollector / inlays?
Thats a great idea, especially with the low cost / high power magnets you can get. Your comment made me rethink a design choice I made for a pretty important project lol
@@tigermafia2100 glad I could help a bit ;-)
Was about to suggest the same thing... using a screw driver would get old fast.
I would also add some bearings to the spur gear....
Good lord this is some clean cad and design work
Man, this is so great tool. I will definitely have a look at your shop. Thank you. Also i am also an everyday user of Rhino, but your grasshopper skills seemfar higher than mine. Would love to learn more grasshopper. But need the good teacher... Wish you the best.
thank you
Klasse Fräserlift, gut gedruckt ist das eine sehr stabile Konstruktion,
Habe mir gleich neue Version heruntergeladen. Werde Heute anfangen mit dem Drucken.
First time seeing someone use GH like its solidworks. 👏
Потрясающая работа
Уже которое видео смотрю с восторгом
Вы талантливый инженер 👍
пц какой-то. с одной стороны первоклассная инженерная работа, с другой стороны куча потраченного времени на полную хрень: нет нормальной аспирации, фрезер будет перегреваться и забиваться пылью - долго не проживет, лифт будет со временем клинить, огромный перерасход материалов и времени.
мне хватило для подобного лифта двух болтов м8 и 3 гаек и 15мин работы. тут же неделю проектировать, несколько дней печатать, потом снова проектировать и еще печатать. ну нахер.
@@TheShura2 от части согласен с вами
Но я как инженер понимаю его. И первоначально это всё таки прототипы, перед производством. Все выше сказанные не достатки могут встретиться в данной работе. Но как по мне автор хотел показать свои способности не только инженера но и дизайнера. Ваш вариант без спорно работоспособен , но красив ли он так же как его?
А получить удовольствие от собственно созданного устройства во время работы с ним по мне без ценно
@@leonidkorshunov52 я же говорю - первокласная инженерная работа, но чисто для работы и видео. В быту бесполезная и неудобная. Но красивая.
Что за CAD он юзает?
он дизайнер, а не инженер.
What settings for the supports since they seem so easy to remove?
A friend is cool ! I made grease from a candle rubbed wax stearin effect 1000% better than oil and does not stick garbage! Good luck!
How do you not have more subscribers? I honestly once thought I wanted to start a channel but looking at your work, the time and effort you put in. the amazing projects and editing. i just don't think I have something to offer. THEN to see you only have this many subscribers, is wild to me. You are doing amazing work my friend. keep it up I am a huge fan!!!
impossible.. This level of grasshopper skills suppose to be forbiden for an ordinary human bean.
His builds are amazingly good
i love that you show mistakes as well!
Just found this channel. I’m very impressed. I’m looking forward to seeing your other videos.
This is really great, nice work! These are the types of things that I like 3D printing for. Printing figurines can be cool but this definitely takes the cake in my opinion. I've always wondered if it would be tough to make the height adjustment come out the side, attach a motor to it (or an old drill gun), and hook it up to a switch. That way you can have a button on the side of the router table that operates height adjustment. Thanks for sharing!
I've been wanting to get into 3d printing, but it seems most are in the hobby so they can mess around and print knickknacks rather than "useful" items. something like this might put me over the top.
Отличная разработка, даже задумался о покупке модели.
Fabulous craftsmanship! Some narration to go along with the video would be lovely…
Wow! That 's grate man! But when the router gets hot, doesn’t it affect (deform, melt) the PLA?
Anyway, incredible work!
That's what i'm curious about. PLA is pretty sensitive to warmer temps. So much so, that if you put something in your car during the summer it softens and deforms.
Hey, this is a very nice video and I think it's a great design. Just a small hint for next time: maybe you should put some notes in the video explaining what kind of optimization you are doing, so the viewer can better understand what you are doing.
You've inspired me to learn Grasshopper and I have to say -- your definitions are a mess >.< I strongly recommend implementing some grouping and 'good practices', it makes coming back to your code so much more pleasant. Anyways, GH is such a powerful tool, after a month of daily practice I still feel like I've barely scratched the surface of what's possible. I never considered it as a 3D printing design environment before I saw your videos - so THANK YOU for that!
Amazing design. Very cool, thanks for showing the updated design.
Man! A few more ideas.
1. To make the block with gears more rigid, you need to make an analogue of the bearing, not with balls. Something like sliding, with lubrication. Make the shaft on which the small bearing is located longer. Add top and bottom on the cylinder. And in the case, in the upper and lower parts, also make holes. The shaft will be clamped between these holes. And will not "hang out" to the left and to the right. If it is possible to process the mating surfaces of the shaft and the hole by cutting (turning from a drill and several clamps will also work), or at least with sandpaper - the plastic will become very smooth (ps do not forget to leave an allowance for processing, 0.1 - 0.3 mm will be enough) .
2. If you need to firmly fix the router in the device, think about a metal collar, with a screw, for ventilation or plumbing pipes with a diameter of 90-150 mm.
You need to make (preferably 2) a cylinder (or rather a pipe), with a diameter of 1-2 mm more than the router, with a cut along the entire height, then insert the router into it and put on the clamp. A metal clamp, when tightened, will be able to clamp not only such a small, but also a healthy milling cutter (with a power of 2-3 kW). As I said, it is better to make 2 such "clamps", top and bottom. How to combine the "clamp" with the lifting device .... you're an engineer!)
3. For the lifting device, it may be worth using a different thread profile (thrust, trapezoidal, ...)
This version 2 looks great, will give it a try but I have just competed and using version 1 with great results. Will wait till or if I get problems thx again. Plans now include hardware list this is just getting better will keep supporting you 😀
Where did you source all your hardware from? Mines becoming more expensive than buying an all metal one as there's a ton of bits that are just 1 quantity and odd sized bearings etc
what a border on obsession. Nice work man!
I love this kind of engineering
I saw the fence video before this, and my conclusion is that you should build the vacuum system in this element. You just need an opening in the external wall, and it doesn't matter if the inner slide blocks it while you change the tool. You could also make the yellow pads thicker and build some inner channels to pull a vacuum trough. The best thing about the vacuum pads, is that will pull air from the motor too, cooling and preventing saw dust ever getting in, and will not mix with the vaseline you used on your inner slide.
yeah, thats exactly what I designed, should be posted in two weeks
Good to know, even a pro make some parts twice :)
just ordered this router ... might head over to the local print shop and get a few rolls of filament to start printing LOOL
The green F-91 W 😍
Next step, a digital version with encoders, display and a remote app for your mobile phone 😜 Great job!
🤯🤯🤯🤯 bravo incroyable comme conception
Man...U R Genius...I got 1.0...but 2.0 is for purchase 2.
What software are you using for CAD?
Amaizing work! Very cool video 🙂
I wouldn't suggest pla, but that looks really cool!
Great work, beautifully modelled 🔥🔥
Es lo mejor que he visto en mi vida. gracias totales
Belíssimo projeto, greetings from Brazil!
Génial encore une évolution, et une bien belle évolution.
A quand une production des grosses pièces des différentes kits en plastique ou aluminium ?
Car pour sûr je serai client. Bonne continuation
Nice....tried to go look at the plans but it appears this simpler version of the router lift is no longer available. I see the newer, more complex ones but I would have preferred this one for my use.
What a brilliant design!
Awesome design!
Not only does selling digital downloads go against the very core of the maker community foundation, but 99% of the time a quick Internet search will turn up the same or similar designs that are available for free.
I found CAD files for multiple versions of an electronic, motor driven router lift just like this, including two that were 6-8 years old. Hopefully the US can bring their laws into the 21rst century sooner than later
I printed myself a big collet chuck for this.
My dust collector is beneath the surface, also vents the router.
I planned to use the original gear hight adjustment but just kept sliding it manually.
Node based modeling.... Interesting
Incredible build. How much time does one of these projects take you start to finish. I'm sure there are many trial and errors, failed prints, etc. Great work!!
Great work! Enjoyed the video.
What size is the router bit used to cut the openings in the table for the lift?
7.9mm makita router bit
That is dope! Great job
What modeling software did you use? I’ve never seen software like that.
ı wonder also
Awsome design 😊👍🏻
Really nice update!
Is it stable enough? The router doesn't flex in the holder when pushing wood against it?
Also for next version, the locking feature could perhaps be accessible from the top like some of the top brands?
thank you, router does not flex. Will definitely think about locking feature
Plastic is well sufficient for router table. I made simple plate where I can just attach my Makita and it's been working without any issues at all. It's all about infill, perimeters and correct material. I made it from simple PLA as it's very rigid material.
Killer! 2.0 is so so nice!
Wow, this has to be one of the best examples of 3d printing i've seen. commercial quality. Do you have vid on the printer, and or the software?
I’m curious as to the software you are using to make your designs. It looks very intriguing.
what are the recommendations for printing and what plastics to use?
Holy cow. This is awesome!
Very nice & great design changes. You should try a generous portion of dry lubricant such as graphite powder, your wet lube will be quite the mess fairly quickly and may cause unwanted binding or sticking. In the least it would be less gooey and smoother operation.
Hi, I have a question. What modeling program are you using?
Grasshopper
@USSA: Woodworking+3D Printing
Hello!
Amazing design and realization!
Could you please write what the CAD did you use for?
What program is this? I use Solidworks and I found it interesting.
Great video! It shows creativity and good editing! New subscriber!
yoo very cool
what cad package did you use to design this and get the parametric values chart?
You have such GLORIOUS supports, are those modelled manually, or something your slicer software does for you? Great project, thanks for sharing! I already have a pretty good commercial router table, but this video made me think that maybe one isn’t enough… :-)
They look a lot like normal slicer supports to me. A lot of things can be customized in the slicer to make the supports nice for the model.
Thank you, I used prusa slicer and cura 4.4 in this project. For prusa kept default settings for supports for cura changed pattern to lines, density 40%, 0.3 tolerance from bottom 0.2 from top (for the second print)
@@ussadesign Thanks a lot, much appreciated!
Would be interesting trying to use some round magnets to fit these yellow parts at 10:00
It just misses one thing. @11:45 you are using two spanners and as we all know that's a bugger to use. Why not design a spanner that will lock in the pocket below it? perhaps a locking pin in the middle for added strength?
What do the side clamps do? Are they for vibration or to keep the router from moving up and down?
Have you seen the Open Lift from "Nachdenksport" who also has a youtube chanel?
JessEm rout-r-lift: $219 Canadian ... This, $40 US ($55 Canadian), about $40 of filament and about $50 of hardware = $145 ... I think that the aluminum plate, all metal construction and peace of mind knowing that it is perfect and far more durable make the JessEm worth the extra $74
Really good man! Aren't you having problems with heat of the router? My old mount for my cnc it just deformed drastically
Hello! Can you tell me, what's the programme do you used?
What is the size of the plate and the router guide to make the hole for the plate? I just want to know if I can print all the parts in my Ender 3 Pro printer.
Great work, I love the design!.. I know you say its a temporary solution but it looks pretty solid to me. Can you give an update on how this thing has been going after prolonged use?
Does a link to the hardware and stuff come with the model?
hey dude, nice job!, a question... that´s PLA?
Holy crap, this was designed in GRASSHOPPER OF ALL THINGS?
Great for being parametric to the last detail, I’ll give you that. But talk about spaghetti.
Amazing! 👍🤓
Can I just buy the routerlift project ready to use?
What is that node programming designing stuff? what software you used to design this it is amazing!!!
That's sick man!
Great ideas! 80% there. Why not use low cost ball screw kit instead of printed threads? Low cost linear bearing and bar race too. Minimize the parts printed. Maximize accuracy. Have a world class router lift of your own.
I wish you could think about a mechanism that handle a heavy box or cylinder and turn it up side down though a crank.
my wife wants to build one too but she needs her router to lift alot faster and further would that be possible with modification
Great stuff. That software you were using... I was so lost
que software utiliza?
Hmm. I might actually update my current simple plate with this. Are cad models included as I definitely would like to keep my current plate sizing? Stl's are annoying to edit if needed.
Okay but why are your supports so supportive and also easily removed?!
Nifty stuff! Hands should have more nicks and cuts on them 🤣