You mentioned 'nibs' originating from your gun, well, you're sorta' right. Your problem is at the mixing bench (I knew it would be). Use TWO (in your case) of the same mixing cups, measure your components in these, primer base in one reducer/activator in the other. Add the activator slowly AS you STIR. Dumping solvents into your base causes over reduction/activation in the center of your cup like an upside down mushroom, then when you stir what's left, the blending can't happen because it's been absorbed in the over reduced part. Thus you have created KICK-OUT, straining will not remedy the problem, you'll have chunks or a seedy finish every time. Also, tack-cloth everything including the air hose (it's likely been laying on the floor). Carry on
ya, once activated and reduced you've got hours of pot time with these pants so you don't need to rush either, that's why some people goof the mixing part. I've left my waste epoxy primer out all night and was still able to brush some of it on in the morning.
WOW after 3 years of relentlessly trying to learn about painting i just came across this video. These algorithms are just not doing me justice when i want to find a person whom i can connect with. The other guys i just caint figure out if they are telling us all about painting or they go into so much detail that were not there yet. This was an excellent starting video on painting and do not be afraid about painting.
I have watched a lot of your video's. I must say, I admire your work ethic, your tenacity to get things done. I wish I had the same, but I don't have the patience. Great work in all your video's. Continued success.
I am building an RV12...contemplating painting it myself because its about 20k to have it professionally done...although penny-wise and pound foolish...important to have a nice finish to a 110k project...thanks for the video...very helpful.
One thing I would recommend is to place a filter on your outlet. It catches any suspended paint in the air and makes you "more environmentally friendly". My brother-in-law does this for his shop and just uses cheap 20x20x1 furnace filters. Enough of me telling you what to do. Thanks as always for showing the process one goes through to go from bag of rivets to flying.
Awesome video. I wish you would post your tip size and pressures and whether or not you reduced the primer. I am not a professional painter by any means but I love the 3. accu spray system.
Nice. Believe me that when you sent your plane to get painted by a workshop, they dont spend that much time into details. They just polish the final paint and thats all. Great job!
I’m using the Stewart Systems products for the environmental issues you mention and also for personal protection. Their waterborne products require no nasty solvents or thinners. The nastiest thing is a mild acid, but that is fine to rinse onto the ground as it is quite dilute to start with and more so after you rinse it off. I have only used their single part primer thus far and it isn’t nearly as robust as the epoxy products, but much more convenient to use on the interior as you don’t need as robust a surface and being able to pour the leftover paint in the gun back into the can is super convenient. I will use their two-part epoxy primer on the exterior where the more robust product is needed.
Well constructed video. Good information, good reasoning. I have also used SPI, and love their product. The only question I would ask is, that was a short time before a second coat, that is usually where painters pick up their sags and runs. It's fun at that point and easy to get carried away. Excellent point about the silicon/wax in the tack rag. Do not use the tack rag to clean (i.e. no pressure) seriously just wisp it along. Last thought....use your garage door to practice painting, (the inside portion, duh). Also....H.F. cloth garage makes a perfect paint booth.
Wow I love the way u do your preparation , I am painter in Aerospace company but I really to build my skill because really I love painting thank u so much for the lesson .
Nice job, best tip I can give is that the cup lid has a hole on top. Constantly check to make sure paint doesn't plug it up especially when spraying clear coat. If it plugs up you will be dry spraying and newbies think the gun is defective.
Very true. I learned this lesson! I always knew that the vent hole has to be remain unclogged, but once when I was painting something on the Cruzer my paint gun was acting weird and it took a few minutes to figure out it was because the hole got clogged. Cleaned the hole, gun worked perfect!
Have you looked at the 3M Accuspray and PPS paint system? Very good guns with little cleaning required and eliminate the need to buy strainers and mixing cups. Greatly reduces hazmat waste.
we just put the polyspray and aerothane on at the crack of dawn outside here in florida when the wind, temps and bugs are down a bit, beware of painting with isocyanates without proper equipment
Great job... I used to paint motorcycles and looking to fix up a plane soon. Your video was helpful. I also subscribed... your producing quality stuff.
Is the Epoxy Primer you are using a closed cell or open cell primer.....from what I can tell it is a closed cell primer due to your comments on the toughness.....closed cell primers are great but the downside is that unless you apply the paint within hours of applying the primer you may have some adhesion issues with the paint. I think the ultimate is to use the closed cell epoxy primer then a light coat of an open cell primer so your paint adhesion is optimal.
The paint I used isn't really a "system". It's Dupont Nason single stage paint. I was going to use Uteck 500 paint, but I went with the Nason because I could get the specific Blue Angels blue and yellow mixed locally. For my Super Duty, I'm fairly certain my paint scheme will be white and black with red trim so I can buy those colors in the Uteck 500 without needing special mixing.
Great paint booth set up! I'm aware of your non alodine situation, has anyone mentioned that you should not gloss out your primer? I used to do that with Deft mil primer ( the yellow / green stuff you see on new mil parts). One of my mentor painters was giving me instruction on light primer application. A lighter coat of primer produces a more porus surface for topcoat paint to grip onto ( was the lesson). He was a senior painter so I complied. We sprayed a 1:1 ratio poly top coat. Not currently painting, but hope to get back at it. I'm doing panel removal and installation for hourly inspections at this time. You appear to have a great plan of action and are able to great things. Just a question about you opinion on primer application.
If you could show more close ups of the paint being sprayed. It would would be good for me to see what you are seeing as the paint ksyes out on the part
I don't care what the label says, not etching the surfaces will make an inferior bond. You should use an etching solution within a couple of hours of painting. Alumiprep is my favorite.
Very nice work, an impressive setup too. Man, you had me laughing at the stack of plastic cups scene!! One of the many things I love about your videos...the little side jokes you play. Keep up the great work...
Great videos. Just found your channel and watched all your videos. Looking forward to your new build. Thank you so much for taking time away from building to share your experience and educate. Much appreciated!
Nice job but do I go about painting the inside of an unprimed metal wing from a 1947 Luscombe who’s wings were assembled unprimed as they were back then.
Hi Mark, how many gallon kits of primer and paint for the 750? Crazy small world as I used to live not too far away in Grand Blanc and Metamora before moving to AZ.
Ok, I’m in process to buy my DeVilbiss paint gun. Is it better to buy the flg 670 or Flg-671 for solvent or water base considering your choice of primer and Nason topcoat? Did you apply a polyurethane topcoat?
@@KitplaneEnthusiast ok, I bought the solvent one. Another question. You said that you add some reducer to your primer and paint. Is it the same reducer that you use for both and what mixing ratio you use with your paint and primer. I bought the same SPI epoxy primer and the Nason fuel-thane that you use?
I have watched thru all your painting videos and might have missed it, but what color did you go with your single stage BaseCoat? I assume the color was chosen to match the final vinyl, but am in the process of choosing paint for my product and really like the blue. Thanks
Hello Mark! It looks as if you primered the inside of the airplane parts - could you make a video about that? or least comment how you did it and what you used. Thank you! Great videos!!!
@@KitplaneEnthusiast Thank you so much for your prompt reply! I am just in the beginning phases of an Outbound S-21 build. and it is my first build. I live on the coast of Ca. So I am trying to figure out what is the best way to protect it...
If you filling a paint chip my guess is you’re fine. Keep in mind, when aircraft painters repaint flight controls they are required to rebalance them. So if you’re doing anything more than filling a couple chips I’d consult with an A&P.
Amazing timing! I sorted by recently uploaded and stumbled upon your video. I am looking to see what would be needed to paint my Cessna 177 I just purchased. I will have to hire a qualified aircraft painter but will be cheaper at $55 an hour than $12,500 for paint locally.
Awesome video, we just got a quote to respray our plane, it was big $$$$, I was wonder how much you spent? manly on disposables, looks like this could be done for under $1000 buck if you already have lightly, extraction fans, spray gun, compressor, etc.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast Oh that's still pretty good, so allow about 3k, our quotes ranged from 20k to 45k so still a massive saving. Thanks for the info :-)
Dont forget about the weight. Alot of reason it takes so long for planes is trippong thenold stuff off. Alot of aircraft have the total weight with allowed paint into consideration.
Thanks for the videos, I am learning a lot by watching them. I am also very interested in the Z750Cruzer, and intend to order the rudder kit for Christmas. I live in West Michigan, (Rockford) and would love to visit your hangar someday to meet you and study your build Thanks again for sharing! Andy Greever
Right, and every single one of those people have never ever done any testing without alodyne. When I was painting the Cruzer I had one guy who kept arguing with me and insisting that if I don't alodyne the paint will fall off. He even said that he "knew" a guy who painted a Cherokee and didn't use alodyne and the first time he washed it all the paint fell off. Of course that's BS. I explained to him my process of prep and painting and he still insisted. Finally I got it out of him that he had never painted anything, but 20 years ago his A&P told him that planes needed prepped with alodyne. Ask any one of those who tell you it needs alodyne what specific testing they have personally done to determine that alodyne is needed! I don't mean this as 'cocky' but I don't care what the internet keyboard warriors say about it-I have done my own research and testing and and have three airplanes to prove the results. I'll go by my real-life testing any day rather than what someone else says they heard 20 years ago. Even my RANS S-10 which has a lot of aluminum parts still looks today like it did the day I painted it and it's 20 years old. Also, remember no swimming within an hour of eating! My great great great grandmother told my great grandmother who told my grandmother who told my mom who told me....so now I must never swim within one hour of eating! LOLOL
We were debating the same, but eventually decided against it as the Zenith with all its rivets, corners and hard to access areas would be a paint to do right.
Wow...you must have really different paint than I’m using. I have the Nason system and my ratios are 8/2/1...Paint/reducer/activator. No cooking time. Humph. I’m just doing various parts on an old 182 but it comes out beautiful.
Think of it as the number of restrictions. An ideal setup has zero reductions/restrictions on airflow so the gun is the only part controlling volume/fan size etc. A lack of sufficient flow can lead to the paint not applying correctly.
cool paintshop. Don't you want to have air filters to your main air intake vent? Also Wouldn't it be better to have the fan on the intake vent rather than outlets, in order to keep an always positive pressure inside the shop, which would let air naturally escape on the outlets? (this way, it forces the air to come from the filtered intake and not from any crevices and other window gaps which would be unfiltered).
@@KitplaneEnthusiast the video shows blower blowing outward, which is creating negative pressure inside the shop, and forcing new air coming wherever and unfiltered. I was suggesting having filters on the inlets rather than outlets, and blowers on the inlet too, creating slightly positive pressure inside the shop, so that the new air coming in is forced to be filtered from the inlet. This would reduce the amount of particles you would introduce in the shop from the outside. You could filter the air outward too for good measures, but probably not necessary considering it's a big shop and paint should not be airborne by the time it hits the outlet.
Great video, and a really nice job on the paint. I’m curious why you didn’t Alodine the aluminum before you primed it. Super job on cleaning and preparing, but after you have cleaned it, your last step before applying the primer should be to apply a light coat of Alodine, especially in mating areas. The Alodine shouldn’t have any effect on your primer, but it does create a protective barrier between the primer and aluminum. It also helps to prevent corrosion. And from my experience, a little reducer will help 8n the spray process, depending on what paint you use. Reducer and Activator are two totally different things. Just my two cents as an A&P.
Great video, but I'm sure you didn't know to never use Dawn dish soap on aluminum. First you scothbrited the pure aluminum coating on your alclad sheets of aluminum. Alcoa says the pure aluminum coating is 5% the thickness of the material if it's less than .062" thick. So if you scotchbrite some .020" 2024, the pure aluminum coating is .001" thick. That means you've just ruined / removed the aluminums best defense against corrosion and exposed the other elements in the metal that give it strength, the copper, manganese, and magnesium. Galvanic corrosion is present when dissimilar metals (Remember you've removed the 100% aluminum coating and exposed the alloy elements the aluminum, copper, manganese, magnesium, and other metals) are in the presence of an electrolyte and moisture. So what you've done is opened the metal to corrosion. You see, the Dawn dish soap is chlorinated and when you put chlorine on aluminum, the chlorine atoms embed into the aluminum / alloy atoms and changes the atomic structure of the metal and that causes filiform corrosion. You've put so much work into your painting and I know you didn't know this, but I can tell you this. I graduated at the top of my (A&P) class, my IQ is 140, I also hold other degrees from N.C. State. Other A&P's didn't graduate at the top of their class, they don't have a very high IQ, and they didn't even pay attention in class or read. I've found the OVERWHELMING majority of A&P's working on airplanes don't read manuals, they don't have a fundamental knowledge of material science, they aren't curious and really couldn't care less about their jobs. That's why so many of us build our own airplanes - and I can tell you that aircraft from Cessna, Beechcraft, Gulfstream, etc have rivet holes that crack, they're riviting sucks, their craftsmanship sucks in general - and they know it and couldn't care any less. They're are airplanes out there with a great amount of craftsmanship - some are the homebuilts and others were built in the 1940's If you ever get a chance look at the original riveting work on a B-17, C-47, DC-6 - any of those era airplanes. I could write a book on how bad aviation sucks these days - and maybe I will.
I will check with zenith .You are on the ball with alclad..It's surface is pure aluminium and is fragile .60 61 is 2/3 the strength of 2024 and is regarded as corrosion resistant .Some kit plane makers use alclad some don't .Im sure you know this but other readers won't .Kit plane makers are careful not give their customers things they can't cope with ,like soft surfaces.I saw a 737 being painted a few years back ,they were sanding it with 80 grit power sanders . Alclad off epoxy on I guess.
use you vilbis gti 50$ gun or 1000 $ gun same work can do, or buy cheap 30$ gun or 4000$ gun same work can do, not matter what gun cost. this is true. important lot have you have good compressor and gun nozzle size right. not too big. if can paint home you car you can paint you plane full same tools. only garage need be biggest and old paint need remove outside garage and use chemicals.
und weshalb? Bau doch ein einfacher zu bauendes Flugzeug wie eine Rans oder Sonex? Die Zenith sind auch „relativ“ einfach zu bauen.. Und mit 69 haste ja mehr Zeit als z.B ein 40 Jähriger mit Familie und Job etc..
Okay, Okay, stop right now, Please, and go purchase a Clip-On microphone set-up. You know, just like Professionals use. You sound as if you are in the Camp Broadcreek (Boy Scouts of Amurka) latrine. I am guessing you can afford at Least a Lavaliere type of you are too penurious to buy a Clip-on.
You mentioned 'nibs' originating from your gun, well, you're sorta' right. Your problem is at the mixing bench (I knew it would be). Use TWO (in your case) of the same mixing cups, measure your components in these, primer base in one reducer/activator in the other. Add the activator slowly AS you STIR. Dumping solvents into your base causes over reduction/activation in the center of your cup like an upside down mushroom, then when you stir what's left, the blending can't happen because it's been absorbed in the over reduced part. Thus you have created KICK-OUT, straining will not remedy the problem, you'll have chunks or a seedy finish every time. Also, tack-cloth everything including the air hose (it's likely been laying on the floor). Carry on
ya, once activated and reduced you've got hours of pot time with these pants so you don't need to rush either, that's why some people goof the mixing part. I've left my waste epoxy primer out all night and was still able to brush some of it on in the morning.
WOW after 3 years of relentlessly trying to learn about painting i just came across this video. These algorithms are just not doing me justice when i want to find a person whom i can connect with. The other guys i just caint figure out if they are telling us all about painting or they go into so much detail that were not there yet. This was an excellent starting video on painting and do not be afraid about painting.
I have watched a lot of your video's. I must say, I admire your work ethic, your tenacity to get things done. I wish I had the same, but I don't have the patience. Great work in all your video's. Continued success.
watching from Brazil, while my skyhawk is being prepared to paint. thank you for sharing uour knowledge
Thanks for the video... done prefectly and easily understandable!
I am building an RV12...contemplating painting it myself because its about 20k to have it professionally done...although penny-wise and pound foolish...important to have a nice finish to a 110k project...thanks for the video...very helpful.
One thing I would recommend is to place a filter on your outlet. It catches any suspended paint in the air and makes you "more environmentally friendly". My brother-in-law does this for his shop and just uses cheap 20x20x1 furnace filters. Enough of me telling you what to do. Thanks as always for showing the process one goes through to go from bag of rivets to flying.
Awesome video. I wish you would post your tip size and pressures and whether or not you reduced the primer. I am not a professional painter by any means but I love the 3. accu spray system.
Nice. Believe me that when you sent your plane to get painted by a workshop, they dont spend that much time into details. They just polish the final paint and thats all. Great job!
I’m using the Stewart Systems products for the environmental issues you mention and also for personal protection. Their waterborne products require no nasty solvents or thinners. The nastiest thing is a mild acid, but that is fine to rinse onto the ground as it is quite dilute to start with and more so after you rinse it off. I have only used their single part primer thus far and it isn’t nearly as robust as the epoxy products, but much more convenient to use on the interior as you don’t need as robust a surface and being able to pour the leftover paint in the gun back into the can is super convenient. I will use their two-part epoxy primer on the exterior where the more robust product is needed.
Hi, I'm from Costa Rica, thank you for sharing your excellent Zenith work. Thank you.
Well constructed video. Good information, good reasoning. I have also used SPI, and love their product. The only question I would ask is, that was a short time before a second coat, that is usually where painters pick up their sags and runs. It's fun at that point and easy to get carried away. Excellent point about the silicon/wax in the tack rag. Do not use the tack rag to clean (i.e. no pressure) seriously just wisp it along. Last thought....use your garage door to practice painting, (the inside portion, duh). Also....H.F. cloth garage makes a perfect paint booth.
Finally an airplane paint video! Thank you!
Wow I love the way u do your preparation ,
I am painter in Aerospace company but I really to build my skill because really I love painting
thank u so much for the lesson .
Great seeing the process. The walk through of your materials and equipment was really helpful.
great vid. Lots of good info in there about painting. Love the mushroom cloud. Got me going for a second
Nice job, best tip I can give is that the cup lid has a hole on top. Constantly check to make sure paint doesn't plug it up especially when spraying clear coat. If it plugs up you will be dry spraying and newbies think the gun is defective.
Very true. I learned this lesson! I always knew that the vent hole has to be remain unclogged, but once when I was painting something on the Cruzer my paint gun was acting weird and it took a few minutes to figure out it was because the hole got clogged. Cleaned the hole, gun worked perfect!
Have you looked at the 3M Accuspray and PPS paint system? Very good guns with little cleaning required and eliminate the need to buy strainers and mixing cups. Greatly reduces hazmat waste.
No I haven't. I'll have to check it out.
Nice work, thanks!
we just put the polyspray and aerothane on at the crack of dawn outside here in florida when the wind, temps and bugs are down a bit, beware of painting with isocyanates without proper equipment
Nice job Mark....can you put something out about keeping your gun clean after painting.
Thanks !
Your videos are very useful, even for people who are not building an airplane. Good info. Thanks!
Thanks for the info!!!! Much appreciated!!!
Just what I need to see! Thanks!
As a long time painter, white tarps give you more light and better color clarity.
awesome content! look like you are well over your 1000 sub goal. I am getting ready to paint my Cessna 120 and do touch ups on my 172.
Great job... I used to paint motorcycles and looking to fix up a plane soon. Your video was helpful. I also subscribed... your producing quality stuff.
Is the Epoxy Primer you are using a closed cell or open cell primer.....from what I can tell it is a closed cell primer due to your comments on the toughness.....closed cell primers are great but the downside is that unless you apply the paint within hours of applying the primer you may have some adhesion issues with the paint. I think the ultimate is to use the closed cell epoxy primer then a light coat of an open cell primer so your paint adhesion is optimal.
Is clearcoat necessary? Are there advantages to adding it?
Well done!
Great video! After using this system on the Cruzer, do you plan to use it on the SD as well?
The paint I used isn't really a "system". It's Dupont Nason single stage paint. I was going to use Uteck 500 paint, but I went with the Nason because I could get the specific Blue Angels blue and yellow mixed locally. For my Super Duty, I'm fairly certain my paint scheme will be white and black with red trim so I can buy those colors in the Uteck 500 without needing special mixing.
Great paint booth set up! I'm aware of your non alodine situation, has anyone mentioned that you should not gloss out your primer? I used to do that with Deft mil primer ( the yellow / green stuff you see on new mil parts). One of my mentor painters was giving me instruction on light primer application. A lighter coat of primer produces a more porus surface for topcoat paint to grip onto ( was the lesson). He was a senior painter so I complied. We sprayed a 1:1 ratio poly top coat. Not currently painting, but hope to get back at it. I'm doing panel removal and installation for hourly inspections at this time. You appear to have a great plan of action and are able to great things. Just a question about you opinion on primer application.
My favorite parts of an plane is the noses they look very cool
If you could show more close ups of the paint being sprayed. It would would be good for me to see what you are seeing as the paint ksyes out on the part
I don't care what the label says, not etching the surfaces will make an inferior bond. You should use an etching solution within a couple of hours of painting. Alumiprep is my favorite.
@9:48. Dawn is chlorinated. Chlorine corrodes metal/aluminum and causes hydrogen embrittlement. That's about the worst cleaner you could ever use.
It’s a few years old but great vid
Very nice work, an impressive setup too. Man, you had me laughing at the stack of plastic cups scene!! One of the many things I love about your videos...the little side jokes you play. Keep up the great work...
Great videos. Just found your channel and watched all your videos. Looking forward to your new build. Thank you so much for taking time away from building to share your experience and educate. Much appreciated!
What fabric are you covering the wings with and will you use the same primer for these surfaces?
This entire airplane is aluminum.
Nice video, very helpful. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
The one thing I see that could be a problem is having the electric fan motors inside the booth area where you will be spraying flammable products.
Love your vids! I’m ready
Wash, then degrease wipe, then roughen with scotchbrite seems a more logical sequence. Degrease wipe probably works best on a shiny surface.
Ground all metal parts before spraying... unless you like static build-up attracting every piece of airborne debris with a mile.
excelente vídeo
Nice job but do I go about painting the inside of an unprimed metal wing from a 1947 Luscombe who’s wings were assembled unprimed as they were back then.
Where does fresh air enter the shop to replace the air exhausted by the fans is it filtered and heated or cooled
Hi Mark, how many gallon kits of primer and paint for the 750? Crazy small world as I used to live not too far away in Grand Blanc and Metamora before moving to AZ.
Not sure exactly. I’d say at least two gallons of primer. Paint would depend on your scheme.
After you scuff the primer do you need to use cleaner again?
I do. Once I scuff the primer I wipe it again with alcohol.
I have a LPH-400 😊 love it!!!!!
Ok, I’m in process to buy my DeVilbiss paint gun. Is it better to buy the flg 670 or Flg-671 for solvent or water base considering your choice of primer and Nason topcoat? Did you apply a polyurethane topcoat?
I am no where even close to an expert on painting or on paint guns. Sorry I can't answer your question.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast ok, I bought the solvent one. Another question. You said that you add some reducer to your primer and paint. Is it the same reducer that you use for both and what mixing ratio you use with your paint and primer. I bought the same SPI epoxy primer and the Nason fuel-thane that you use?
I have watched thru all your painting videos and might have missed it, but what color did you go with your single stage BaseCoat? I assume the color was chosen to match the final vinyl, but am in the process of choosing paint for my product and really like the blue. Thanks
Thanks!
@@KitplaneEnthusiast
How about a HVLP system? I see these are being used in automotive applications now.
I painted my first two airplanes with the Citation HVLP system and I really liked it. I’m considering buying that system again to paint my Super Duty.
Hello Mark!
It looks as if you primered the inside of the airplane parts - could you make a video about that? or least comment how you did it and what you used.
Thank you! Great videos!!!
@@KitplaneEnthusiast Thank you so much for your prompt reply!
I am just in the beginning phases of an Outbound S-21 build. and it is my first build. I live on the coast of Ca. So I am trying to figure out what is the best way to protect it...
Is it ok to paint your own plane say it needs some touch up or you want to throw a little paint on it or shall I say touch it up?
If you filling a paint chip my guess is you’re fine. Keep in mind, when aircraft painters repaint flight controls they are required to rebalance them. So if you’re doing anything more than filling a couple chips I’d consult with an A&P.
Amazing timing! I sorted by recently uploaded and stumbled upon your video. I am looking to see what would be needed to paint my Cessna 177 I just purchased. I will have to hire a qualified aircraft painter but will be cheaper at $55 an hour than $12,500 for paint locally.
What other kitplanes have you built?
Awesome video, we just got a quote to respray our plane, it was big $$$$, I was wonder how much you spent? manly on disposables, looks like this could be done for under $1000 buck if you already have lightly, extraction fans, spray gun, compressor, etc.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast Oh that's still pretty good, so allow about 3k, our quotes ranged from 20k to 45k so still a massive saving. Thanks for the info :-)
Dont forget about the weight. Alot of reason it takes so long for planes is trippong thenold stuff off. Alot of aircraft have the total weight with allowed paint into consideration.
Thanks for the videos, I am learning a lot by watching them. I am also very interested in the Z750Cruzer, and intend to order the rudder kit for Christmas. I live in West Michigan, (Rockford) and would love to visit your hangar someday to meet you and study your build
Thanks again for sharing!
Andy Greever
Can you paint an aluminum aircraft with automotive paint?
soooooo , you did or didn't go with alidine
Great video! Can you send me a picture of your attitude poster?!
Every where I turn someone is saying you have to use alodine on aluminum. How is your paint holding up without the alodine prep?
Right, and every single one of those people have never ever done any testing without alodyne. When I was painting the Cruzer I had one guy who kept arguing with me and insisting that if I don't alodyne the paint will fall off. He even said that he "knew" a guy who painted a Cherokee and didn't use alodyne and the first time he washed it all the paint fell off. Of course that's BS. I explained to him my process of prep and painting and he still insisted. Finally I got it out of him that he had never painted anything, but 20 years ago his A&P told him that planes needed prepped with alodyne. Ask any one of those who tell you it needs alodyne what specific testing they have personally done to determine that alodyne is needed! I don't mean this as 'cocky' but I don't care what the internet keyboard warriors say about it-I have done my own research and testing and and have three airplanes to prove the results. I'll go by my real-life testing any day rather than what someone else says they heard 20 years ago. Even my RANS S-10 which has a lot of aluminum parts still looks today like it did the day I painted it and it's 20 years old. Also, remember no swimming within an hour of eating! My great great great grandmother told my great grandmother who told my grandmother who told my mom who told me....so now I must never swim within one hour of eating! LOLOL
🤣 All true! I think your plane looks great! I can’t wait to see a finished super duty!
Where did you pick up the wax and grease remover?
Any auto paint supply shop should have it.
I'm debating paint vs vinyl...
We were debating the same, but eventually decided against it as the Zenith with all its rivets, corners and hard to access areas would be a paint to do right.
Wow...you must have really different paint than I’m using. I have the Nason system and my ratios are 8/2/1...Paint/reducer/activator. No cooking time. Humph. I’m just doing various parts on an old 182 but it comes out beautiful.
whats going on with the can at ? 14:16
the paint just sneaks off lol
Neat !
Why high flow on the air hose?
Think of it as the number of restrictions. An ideal setup has zero reductions/restrictions on airflow so the gun is the only part controlling volume/fan size etc. A lack of sufficient flow can lead to the paint not applying correctly.
You have mention the Blues a few times, any experience with them?
cool paintshop. Don't you want to have air filters to your main air intake vent? Also Wouldn't it be better to have the fan on the intake vent rather than outlets, in order to keep an always positive pressure inside the shop, which would let air naturally escape on the outlets? (this way, it forces the air to come from the filtered intake and not from any crevices and other window gaps which would be unfiltered).
Why the comment? You obviously didn't even watch the video!
@@KitplaneEnthusiast the video shows blower blowing outward, which is creating negative pressure inside the shop, and forcing new air coming wherever and unfiltered. I was suggesting having filters on the inlets rather than outlets, and blowers on the inlet too, creating slightly positive pressure inside the shop, so that the new air coming in is forced to be filtered from the inlet. This would reduce the amount of particles you would introduce in the shop from the outside. You could filter the air outward too for good measures, but probably not necessary considering it's a big shop and paint should not be airborne by the time it hits the outlet.
Hello, a question here. Is breathable air system a requirement for spray painting or a respirator mask is equally good?
sarosh muhammad I have a 3 m 4000 series mask, Its rated for spraypaint and it isnt too expensive. It works good.
Some aircraft paints are poisonous to breath. For those, you must have forced air system or you will die.
Thank very useful information Iran
Great video, and a really nice job on the paint. I’m curious why you didn’t Alodine the aluminum before you primed it. Super job on cleaning and preparing, but after you have cleaned it, your last step before applying the primer should be to apply a light coat of Alodine, especially in mating areas. The Alodine shouldn’t have any effect on your primer, but it does create a protective barrier between the primer and aluminum. It also helps to prevent corrosion.
And from my experience, a little reducer will help 8n the spray process, depending on what paint you use. Reducer and Activator are two totally different things.
Just my two cents as an A&P.
Great video, but I'm sure you didn't know to never use Dawn dish soap on aluminum. First you scothbrited the pure aluminum coating on your alclad sheets of aluminum. Alcoa says the pure aluminum coating is 5% the thickness of the material if it's less than .062" thick. So if you scotchbrite some .020" 2024, the pure aluminum coating is .001" thick. That means you've just ruined / removed the aluminums best defense against corrosion and exposed the other elements in the metal that give it strength, the copper, manganese, and magnesium. Galvanic corrosion is present when dissimilar metals (Remember you've removed the 100% aluminum coating and exposed the alloy elements the aluminum, copper, manganese, magnesium, and other metals) are in the presence of an electrolyte and moisture. So what you've done is opened the metal to corrosion. You see, the Dawn dish soap is chlorinated and when you put chlorine on aluminum, the chlorine atoms embed into the aluminum / alloy atoms and changes the atomic structure of the metal and that causes filiform corrosion.
You've put so much work into your painting and I know you didn't know this, but I can tell you this. I graduated at the top of my (A&P) class, my IQ is 140, I also hold other degrees from N.C. State. Other A&P's didn't graduate at the top of their class, they don't have a very high IQ, and they didn't even pay attention in class or read. I've found the OVERWHELMING majority of A&P's working on airplanes don't read manuals, they don't have a fundamental knowledge of material science, they aren't curious and really couldn't care less about their jobs. That's why so many of us build our own airplanes - and I can tell you that aircraft from Cessna, Beechcraft, Gulfstream, etc have rivet holes that crack, they're riviting sucks, their craftsmanship sucks in general - and they know it and couldn't care any less. They're are airplanes out there with a great amount of craftsmanship - some are the homebuilts and others were built in the 1940's If you ever get a chance look at the original riveting work on a B-17, C-47, DC-6 - any of those era airplanes.
I could write a book on how bad aviation sucks these days - and maybe I will.
Yes but this guy knows things that nobody else knows! Including Boeing! Follow his advice!
2024 is clad with pure aluminium . This aircraft is made from 6061 .
@@jamesbarber2882 AlClad (aluminum clad) isn't just 2024. Where do you get your information?
I will check with zenith .You are on the ball with alclad..It's surface is pure aluminium and is fragile .60 61 is 2/3 the strength of 2024 and is regarded as corrosion resistant .Some kit plane makers use alclad some don't .Im sure you know this but other readers won't .Kit plane makers are careful not give their customers things they can't cope with ,like soft surfaces.I saw a 737 being painted a few years back ,they were sanding it with 80 grit power sanders . Alclad off epoxy on I guess.
"There are..." Not "they're".
use you vilbis gti 50$ gun or 1000 $ gun same work can do, or buy cheap 30$ gun or 4000$ gun same work can do, not matter what gun cost. this is true. important lot have you have good compressor and gun nozzle size right. not too big. if can paint home you car you can paint you plane full same tools. only garage need be biggest and old paint need remove outside garage and use chemicals.
Those gloves don't fit hulk hands... Keep it up, good work.
we did a painting job to a cessna 150 Trabajo de pintura avion Cessna 150 - A cabeza de trapo ruclips.net/video/OgCatuuhGZQ/видео.html
fake or genuine no matter both can paint car or plane good.
Do not forget inside the airframe or you end up in few years with a beautiful plane that is corroded inside primer will do for that nicely.
You forgot the airplane......
Am liebsten würde ich auch anfangen und mir ein Flugzeug zu bauen,aber mit 69 Jahren= Too late! Shi...
und weshalb? Bau doch ein einfacher zu bauendes Flugzeug wie eine Rans oder Sonex? Die Zenith sind auch „relativ“ einfach zu bauen.. Und mit 69 haste ja mehr Zeit als z.B ein 40 Jähriger mit Familie und Job etc..
Money money man
Okay, Okay, stop right now, Please, and go purchase a Clip-On microphone set-up. You know, just like Professionals use. You sound as if you are in the Camp Broadcreek (Boy Scouts of Amurka) latrine. I am guessing you can afford at Least a Lavaliere type of you are too penurious to buy a Clip-on.
As Paul Bertorelli said in one of his AvWeb Channel videos several years ago: good Audio makes good Video...and this is Not good Audio.
Sounds fine to me. Maybe your hearing aids need new batteries.
What is this hocus-pocus shit with the paint can, show us how you did that. 14.16
It's magic!
It’s all in the wrist when you set down the can. It takes years of practice to get that just right.
“Getting paint on your parts?”
Gross.