How to Install a Bathtub...Acrylic Kohler Archer (Step-by-Step)
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- Опубликовано: 6 июн 2016
- If you want to learn how to install an acrylic tub you're in the right place. This video walks you through our Kohler Archer bathtub installation.
For more home improvement tips visit www.homerepairtutor.com/👍🏼
Helpful Links
32" x 60" Kohler Archer Tub (lefthand) -- amzn.to/2Xa7lQj
32" x 60" Kohler Archer Tub (righthand) -- amzn.to/2EgZCs8
Kohler Archer Drain Assembly (chrome) -- amzn.to/2jPUvYh
Kohler Archer Drain Assembly (brushed) -- amzn.to/2hWJbZL
Clear silicon sealant -- amzn.to/2iHd9yh
Tub Drain Wrench -- amzn.to/2iGr4Vl
Here's what you'll see
-how to build the main wall
-how to build a knee wall
-how to plumb the bathtub
-how to set the tub in mortar
-how to secure the tub to stud framing
This is a pretty darn good tutorial. If you have any questions please ask them in the comments. We'd be happy to help. 
Хобби
To anyone watching and thinking, “haha, dude is out of breath!” You’re not alone. I was giggling at it and commenting about it to my wife. Then I installed my tub per this video. I totally get it. Lots of heavy breathing and sweating. Great video! Thanks for posting this! It helped me a great deal!!!!
So thankful for the videos you guys make! As a fellow Pittsburgher, I often run into the same exact problems. Thank you so much!!
Used this video to negotiate with my contractor on a new acrylic tub installation (specifically on the mortar vs no mortar) after removing a cast iron tub. My main concern was how it would be supported. Plastic is not iron. The video definitely helped me as a client/consumer understand what they are doing/not doing. Also liked how straight forward the filming was. Super job!
I always put a backing rail on rear wall,never nail or screw drip ledge.
Install a level 1x4 cleat along the back wall studs and dry-fit the tub first. Most install instructions provide the under rim to floor dimension. Mix the mortar looser and push the tub down until it rests on the front apron and cleat in the back. Do not step in the tub before the bedding mortar sets up or you may create a void between the top of the mortar bed and the tub bottom.
kohler does not recommend a cleat to be installed with this tub. However, I'm sure it wont hurt. Would recommend placing a heavy bead of silicon on top of cleat when installing tub.
@@treystills recommended or not, cleat it ! jeesh
Actually.......
I didn't step on the floor for a shower install I did and ended up with a slight high spot. I will always use a stiff mortar mix and step around to ensure that the mortar isn't pushing up the floor. Not going to jump up and down or pound on it, but stepping to set it is something I will always do.
A cleat works on a tub that was made level for it, but many manufacturers don't cast or grind the underside precisely, so it is difficult to level a cleat on remodels or new installs where there is no access to both sides of an open stud wall.
Great video. Just what I needed to know since I'm installing a Kohler Acrylic tub just like that one . Thanks
Amazing video! This is the exact tub in the exact setting I needed to know about. You took your time to explain it for a DIYer and now I feel both confident and excited to tackle the job. I’ll be checking out all your other videos too. Thanks!
I was going to say the same thing - we're getting the same tub, and we have a 100 year old "nothing is square" house. This was a VERY informative video. So was the Kerdi board video.
ruclips.net/video/OTf2gG-J-o8/видео.html
I had a new tub in new construction where the overflow leaked like a sieve due to improper installation and the tub spout has at least a 1/4 in gap ...after installation by a "professional". Those are the things that make me do things myself. This is one of the few bathtub install videos that actually cover the overflow and drain PVC construction and the mortar bed. Thanks.
Very detailed with a lot of time & stress saving tips. thanks !
Thanks for great video. I suck in this kind of work. I really admire your work guys. Thanks again.
Within a few minutes of listening, I could tell yinz were from SW Pennsylvania.
Thanks guys! Awesome content and excellent advice. I haven't ever installed a new acrylic bathtub and this covered all the areas I had questions about. I really appreciate the high quality details discussed. They will improve my installation! I am also very impressed with the fast pace and high level of meaningful content. Your videography was great and Steve's work is the best!
This is one of the better videos I've seen to help me in a diy install.
Fun watching you work 😁 typically, unless you are a part of the crew, one could never see such up close craftsmanship and get so many details explained calmly along the way 💆😁🤭🙏👌✨
Sweet Jesus you've never actually seen craftsmanship if you think this clown is good
Great information! Thank you both for your expertise!
First off, mucho thanks to you for making a video as thorough as this was and dos muchos for having a guy like Steve to do the walk through and being clear with what he's doing, why and then showing us how it's done at a "pro speed" fast pace. That would have taken me 3 days but he did it practically before lunch. I really need to step my game up. LOL
I came here to watch, because I will be installing a tub in the near future, ie, hopefully within a year, but anyways, the silicone had me cracking up. My late uncle taught me the wonders of silicone, and how I can do all things through silicone which strengthens me.
A plumber after my own heart!
Great educational video that gave me everything I need to do an installation correctly. Thank you.
It's a challenge (sometime nightmare lol :P) working with old houses!Great video guys!!Thanks for sharing the informations!
This is a wonderful tutorial, that I will use in my Habitat houses and avoid split tubs. Thanks for detailed procedures and very useful thoughts.
+Jim Stephens wonderful, glad this will help 👍
No wonder you lost your hair jim. Milking cows too long love Habitual bitchin house repairs group
Thanks, I thought it to be very well explained. I fell a lot more confident.
Great video. Thanks for the walkthrough
Great work. Thank you. We already have ours cleaned out to the studs. Just needed a little guidance and hints on what to look for to put the tub in. This really helps. I never considered the mud bed but it makes sense on why to use it!
+Billy Bob glad it helped 👍
Thank you for the video! I love it when people do things properly by triple checking. Thank you very much. Someone understands precision.
Guy is good, I'll give him that. This is a much bigger job than you think.
Splendide vidéo. Thank you ! Question: my first layer is also planks. The floor is , naturally irregular (0-3/8 gap from one end to the other one, with laser). Want to screw all old planks to joist, use PL after with 3/4 plywood. And use self levelling so I can put Ditra Heat. Self leveling necessary? Ok
I agree with Steve 100% on the silicone. I do the same thing. I also use silicone on new Construction windows just for the extra insurance.
+Brad Smith silicone is great for plumbing, gives me more faith the job will last
Great Video, thank you. I had the exact same tub installed (by a professional) without a mortar bed. During remaining construction, it cracked at the rim from the (framed in) wall to the tub wall, all the way through. When I contacted Kohler they advised the mortar bed is very important due to the stresses on the acrylic, which makes sense. If the stress starts at the bottom of the tub (when not set in mortar) and then transferred all the way up to the ledge it might (and did in my case) meet its maximum tensile strength and crack. 3 attempts as repair with epoxy were quick fails. I now believe that if a mortar bed was used to remove the stress level in the base, a large downward stress on the rim might have held up (there is no sign of impact). There was also a few cracks around the screws mounting the tub to the studs which is a sign of another stress (not shimmed). I agree with using this video and other's experience to make sure it is done right!
Using a mortar bed under a tub (even an acrylic) is not standard as most tubs come with a support system from the manufacturer. Not having this support system is like buying a table without legs...
With that said, there are some tubs that require a mortar bed because the manufacturer did not provide a support system for their tub.
Additionally, a ledger board should be installed along the long edge of the tub as when you get in and out of the tub this is what you will use to support your weight and not doing so can lead to cracking or flexing along the long back side of the tub.
Excellent explanations and great to see someone working through any issues that arise with levelling.
Thank you for this video! We installed this same exact tub and followed your recommendations.
Rae Marie helllo
Clean video, thanks!
+QUICKDRAW PRO TAPES 👍
Best DIY videos for sure
+Randy Nachoman Savage thanks man. Totally appreciate your kind words
The guy Steve was very skilled - nice video.
+Jerod Matlock he's fantastic and has a great profile over on Houzz...but only does work north of Pittsburgh 👍
What is steve"s last name or his company name? I live north of pittsburgh and have some work that needs done
Eric Benton his company is SRW Contracting. Here's his site www.srwcontractinginc.com
What kind of work do you need?
coincidentally I just purchased a kohler archer 60x32 tub and I stumbled on this video. Changing a shower stall to full bath shower. Carpentry is about done and I was going to try to do this myself, but after watching this may consider a pro.
Jerod Matlock you can tell he was seasoned thats fir sure.... he did a nice job
MUST NOTE!!!! According to the manufacturer, the Mapei 4 to 1 mortal mix isn't supposed to be used directly on top of wood/OSB subfloor. The mortar mix is supposed to be used on top of concrete or at least prep the wood surface with polymer modified tile mortar before placing the cement mix on top or it'll crack and wont bond to the wood. You should never pound/step in the tub that'll create a gap and the mud mix should be direr than presented for proper installation.
just to clarify, we did speak with Mapei today about this installation and it brought up a lot of good technical questions. It definitely helps to add a 1/4" x 1/4" bond coat with modified thin-set mortar, e.g. Mapei's Ultraflex LFT. Then set the 4-to-1 mud bed mix on top. The issue we have with not stepping in the tub is the concern of not having the tub properly set in the mud bed. We've never had an issue with this methodology. That said, we're always open to new concepts and respect an open dialogue about installation techniques. So thank you for bringing this up.
@@HomeRepairTutor This might help clarify the potential issues. ruclips.net/video/i9kv3NWAU8g/видео.html
I love the videos! Very informative! Great work. One request. Steve, wear breathing protection! Dust and insulation fibers and fumes from PVC glue are really hard on your lungs!
Very nice video!
Thank you I really wanted an answer to the tile part 🙏
what's your tile question?
@@HomeRepairTutor I should have said you answered my tile question 👍 I have a heritage home and the hardwood on the floor and I was really worried about it you know cracking or breaking so now I know I can't use it yay lol
@@KarenCookKC excellent, happy the video was helpful :)
Great video thank you
Well done!
Awesome explanation guys. I came here to find out the best type of mortar to use to set the tub, as I am helping my plumber on a house rebuild set the tub, and I'm supplying materials. Great information and keep up the good work! You deserve the almost half a million views you've received as the information is spot on! Thanks again!
Mortar mix. Type N or S.
great video
Thank you
Great video
Excellent
Can you go to the next step and show us the plumbing for the tub/shower? Any photos of the finished job?
Structolite work great under tub beds.
dang mate... wiping a solvent cement joint with your finger! never seen that before.
Great video.
Do you know if it's possible to order just the slip nut that has some pivot to it somewhere?
I love how he used tons of silicone to prevent leaks & then goes with ABS to PVC which could end up leaking. LOL. I wonder if a ferco fitting with silicone would have worked in that situation. :P
This was very interesting. It came up when I was looking at how to do a mortar bed, but I found myself watching the entire video and enjoyed it. Thank you!
I need whatever that dude has. Hes to got damn happy.
yay good job
@ Jeff , good video job , is there follow up videos here on You tube from you and Steve doing the backer board and tiling it ?
+BadCat yep, we have KERDI-BOARD and Wedi tutorials
Let me know your questions
KERDI-BOARD
ruclips.net/video/cDQ-OgAvLFs/видео.html
Wedi
ruclips.net/video/Rzd9aU_xNJg/видео.html
Jeff Patterson thanks / those were also good to watch .
Super helpful! I will be hiring pros to do the install but I wanted to understand the details so that I could fully understand the pieces and the process. Thanks!
glad to help, what kind of tile are you installing?
Thanks, Steve i had to uninstall the tub because it wasn't level enough. The mortar bed worries me leaning towards self-leveling plus I'm only a 1/8 off in the back & limited access to the drain & overflow.
thank you
+mirooo Vuujjj glad to help
Thanks
Great video! I noticed you typically choose to install a ledger board on these tubs but not on this one. I also noticed that most manufacturers do not suggest a ledger board. Why is that?
You also never step in the tub after leveling with a mortar bed. The bottom will flex and push the mortar away. You leave it alone for the mortar to set.
Real Good Video
Thanks!
Great video, guys! Now I understand how it is that some people on the product reviews report problems with this type of tub cracking - the details matter to get it right, which you guys did a great job of showing and explaining.
Question: I'd like to have a toe-tap pop up drain on my Kohler acrylic tub, instead of the lever type. Do you know if those are pretty universal in terms of how they would fit the drain hole? The tub we're looking at is a Kohler Bancroft alcove tub - similar to the Archer, but an older design. Thanks!
Thank you Tom 🙏🏼 -Jeff
hey guys. Great vid! I have a question.....after you put down the 1/2 in ply on top of the hardwood. did you put down another type of sub before tiling? keep up the great content!
We added 1/8” Ditra over ply using modified thin-set (Kerabond + Keralastic). Many thanks for asking
@@HomeRepairTutor just wanted to say thanks again guys. i followed ur lead on my sub floor and kohler tub install. Watching ur vids gave me the confidence and knowledge to tackle this job. Keep up the great work and I look forward to more Videos!!
@@HomeRepairTutor Did you put the Ditra under the bathtub?
Great video. Getting ready to install an acrylic tub. What’s the best way to level my subfloor? Doesn’t seem like you can shim the Kohler tub. Thanks
if the subfloor isn’t level we recommend inspecting the joists for structural damage. Then sistering new 2x material to old joists and leveling the structure. But you can also self level with Ardex Liquid BackerBoard or Laticrete NXT leveler. But there are several other steps like priming they floor and adding 1/8” perimeter joints that are very important
Isn't the beauty of a two inch thick mortar bed? You place the tub into it and then level the tub in the bed of mortar. So a mildly unlevel subfloor shouldn't be an issue.
@Home Repair Tutor Do you all have detailed video that steps through the prep and pour of the self-leveling compound, specifically including where to end the long bounding edge for an apron front/alcove tub? Please provide link. Note: I’m interested in the 60” x 30” or 60” x 32” Left-drain Kohler Archer Alcove Tub in Acrylic and intended to simply use a mortar bed to address the difference and ensure proper support.
I love the idea of using silicone sealer on the tub shoe.... I have tried it and its not to good however with the rubber o-ring ... they always squeeze out
very good explanations how to install of the tub. I study plumbing , I still work in plumbing , in new home and civil work, .
thanks a lot for you knowledge and skill and purpose given to us..
jose Vilca
Do you cover that new tub or just walk all over it unprotected ? Total hackjob IMO
Great job. I was thinking about using cement board underneath the plywood since my current subfloor under whirlpool tub has some rot. Is 1.2 inch plywood subfloor good enough to place whirlpool tub on?
Curious as to why no stringer was used to ensure level. Is this optional? Not necessary at all? Thanks for another great video.
Can the tub drain be installed without having access from the ceiling below? If so, how is that done? Also, if you are connecting into an ABS trap, is Kohler's brass Clearflo drain preferable to the PVC version in a situation where you don't have access from below (and in areas where the ABS to PVC glue isn't code compliant)? Thanks!
Hi, I know this video is really old, but what about insulating the tub? Is it only worthwhile if using a cast iron or steel tub? Thanks.
In case the customer is watching.... "We did not compromise the structural integrity of the joist" ..... Lol
Question: @19:37, I would like/want a membrane/waterproofed material (like waterproofing cement board with redguard or something similar) on that wall to attach the tub to. Why didn't you include that? Or am I just going beyond necessary by desiring to include the waterproofing typical for a shower install? Beyond necessary, or is that supposed to be attached on top of the tub flange?
Bingo. Just what I wanted.
what should the height of the knee wall be? I am installing the exact same tub. Thanks.
I want to do a drop in tub but the tub I have is 45 centimeters from the floor on one end, and 44 on the other end. Should i use shims on the bath cradle?
Great video. Thanks for posting it. We are installing the exact same bath tub and this was great to watch. Just a question - I was wondering why you didn't put some kind of waterproof barrier between the mortar and the plywood. We were thinking of maybe a thick piece of plastic (like a piece of plastic tarp or something) so the moisture of the mortar would not sink into the plywood. Just wondering if that is needed. Thanks for a great video. Very nice.
Keep in mind he used a drier mix of the mortar and didn't moisten the plywood before so there shouldn't be great adhesion there. That said, I do plan on putting down a plastic sheet myself, because why not make it an easy cleanup down the road?
would you make the 2 ends slightly high on the outer side so that water doesn't run out onto the floor? or would you also make the 2 ends level?
suggestions for the plumbing when i dont have access to the other side or underneath?
Hello super good video but I have a problem all the plumbing is on the concrete foundation and the drain is located on the brick block (south florida constructions) I don't have access behind the wall to attach a drain like you in your video, I don't know if I need to attach everything to the drain fittings and then install the bath hahaha DIY! ( the old bathtub is 30" the new is 32", all the plumbing is all ready moved , any advice is welcome!!
What was the plywood under the tube for?? Thanks
Hi - great video - love how detail oriented he is and he goes the extra mile with silicone, etc. Wondering if you could answer a few questions. We are installing the 30x60 version of this tub.
1. He mentioned galvanized screws for attaching the flange to wall - what kind? Are they flat head or pan head (assume they are not tapered/bugle-head)? How long? Wood screws? Would appreciate input.
2. What if the subfloor isn't level - we have about 3/8" drop from side to side over the 5' length of the tub. So there is a 3/8" gap on one end of the apron. Plumber put a single shim under it - seems like that would not be sufficient. Any suggestions?
3. Noticed a strip of wood (plywood) attached to the apron side - is that a support for the apron? Does mortar go under that?
Thank you for the questions, galvanized wood screws and 1 1/2 to 2 inches are good. Ideally you'd want the subfloor to be as level as possible to allow for proper drainage of the tub. Also, we like to see the joists to ensure they weren't hacked by plumbers or other contractors and therefore compromising the structural integrity of the bathroom. The 3/8" isn't bad but it raises the question of 'why' is it sloping that much. Did you plumber show you the joists?
Mortar goes directly under the tub per the Kohler directions and not necessarily under the apron. Hope this helps
Can you do an update on the corner tub you did 6 years ago? You use kerdi band
Installed an acrylic tub and have some squeak issues at drain end. Wonder how to stabilize existing installation without removing tub. No mortar involved. Used 2X4 and bolted that to tub and floor. only minimal side to side movement at drain end. Want to re.-brace so as to eliminate movement & squeaking. Thinking better placement of 2x4s. Any suggestions? JT
Learned some useful stuff...but DO protect your precious 😎
eyeballs guys...2 windows to the world is all we get! 🙈
What i taught my sons.
I agree, but I've observed that most workers hardly ever use protective gear probably because it just adds to the number of tools they have to keep track of, and would also be uncomfortable in hot places. I don't do jobs like this for a living so when I do I always use goggles, masks, etc. Makes for less irritation on the body.
If you needed to remove the tub someday, how hard would it be to free it from the mortar?
Great video. Some don't use the mortar in their videos. Must be a mistake. Mine is a complete fiberglass bath and shower , one unit. When you connected the plumbing it looked like the P trap was sideways? Where is the P trap?
24:05 it's hard to see since it's black pipe but the p-trap is connected to the white vertical pipe from the tub.
baby wipes work great for cleaning up silicone
Great video -- but I'd love to see how you prep the walls for backerboard and install the backerboard. Do you follow the instructions of running furring strips down to the flange? And how does that work on the exterior wall side -- do you run furring strips on the studs along the whole length of the wall to avoid having a 1/4" lip between the tile backer and the drywall? I'm about to install this same tub, and this is an issue I'm struggling with. Thanks for the video!
+BrightEye Studio I'll be installing Schluter KERDI-BOARD in this surround. That'll go on top of the tub lip/flange then to the ceiling. Schluter recommends filling the gap between the tub and KERDI with KERDI-FIX, applying a thin layer of unmodified thin-set to the first 3" of KERDI-BOARD and embedding KERDI-BAND into it. Very watertight seal. If you're using cement board the setup depends on the gap between the tub lip and framing. Send me some pictures at jeff@homerepairtutor.com
Hey Jeff. Great Video! I'm just learning about bathtub installation and I see sometimes a ledger board is used to support the back side of the tub. Is this just dependent on the tub installed or are there other factors used to determine when to use a ledger board?
+Robert Shook thanks for asking and yes, each tub will have different instructions. For example, this Kohler tub didn't need a ledger board. But we just installed an American Standard Americast and it required a ledger. That video will be up in a few weeks.
Shrimp Quarantine probably better to add the mortar as that's in the instructions
Some advice from a licensed plumber , pipe rector seal and plumbers puddy is what your suppose to use on your drain assemblies not silicone. the expansion and contraction of the PVC will crack that silicone overtime like butter
I’m installing this tub with drain soon. The instructions say to use silicone on overflow and drain but also use putty on drain.
21:23 He just undid his work by stepping into the tub. The tub will flex and push mortar down and then flex back up creating a void in the process.
That was my thought watching it too.
It's a fiberglass tub, not acrylic. Does not flex nearly as much as a plastic tub. His larger screw up was not having a clear under the sides. If someone steps on the edges, it's going to crack.
@@djtheg6819 No, its a Kohler acrylic tub.
If I understand this correctly he used the mapei 4 to 1 mud bed mix to not only set tub in but as a leveling method as well since I didn't see him use any shims etc but only the cement mix. I guess he doesn't like setting tub in plaster of paris like the old timers used to do. Maybe this special mud mix is superior.
"We did not compromised the joist structural integrity"
Yes you did!
Carving out any part of the side of a joist will automatically compromise it's structure!
how many remodel/fixes do you think have happened in that bathroom since it was first built?
+Alex KC great question, rough guess is at least 5-6. It was a mess
I wish I saw this video last summer when installing a new bath as it started squeaking again
Great video. But I did not see what did you do with those two pieces of plywood attached to the bottom. Did you remove them before installing on mortar, or may be you put mortar a little bis a side and it did not go under plywood. Also when you put tub on mortar bed does it goes all the way down to the subfloor or it is a little bit raised on mortar?
I have a special case. I am installing 19" tub next to window and have only 21 1/2 " of the wall. So I need every millimeter of that space to set up tile.
+Yuriy Us we followed the Kohler directions (in terms of the wood) and the tub rested on top of the mortar, so it was raised. Keep in mind the finished floor, it should cover the gap between the tub and subfloor.
Why not use 30lb. felt/tar paper as a vapor barrier over the entire sub floor as well as under the tub? I think he works a bit TOO FAST for me.
Can you use rapid set mortar?
What kind of screws do you use when u screw tub to studs? Deck? Self tappers? Can drywall screws work?
You will use galvanized or stainless screws.
just curious. should you fill the tub with water to help it set on the mortar bed? thoughts on using spray foam instead of mortar( due to weight)?
+Rod Orchard Photography instructions call for mortar, so that's the best option for warranty purposes. We didn't fill the tub with water but did secure it to the studs since it's acrylic and the screws could be drilled through the tub lip
I think the plywood will suck the water from the mortar and will shrink away from the tub. I think the spray foam would be best if no tar paper is used. Set the tub dry, then reach in both ends with a couple cans of Great stuff foam. The mortar is going to shrink.
be careful with the great stuff. it is low density (1lb/cft or less) for it not to give over time, use at least 5lb density foam. this only comes in pour (2 part) or pro spray, no aerosol cans. also, if you you an adhesive foam, good luck getting the tub out later.
Do you always take off the sheet rock the walls when installing a new tub?
My Mirabelle bathtub instructions recommends installing "stringers", lengths of wood that underlie and support the three alcove wall sections of the tub, and NOT to drill through the lip of the tub, but to install screws and washers over the lips. Why do you use no stringer? BTW, I installed a Kohler previously and they recommended installing stringers as well.
+J Burke every bathtub is different and should be installed per the directions. Kohler doesn't require a stronger for this Archer model. It's set in mortar, which provides a solid base for the tub. In case you're interested here are the instructions
www.us.kohler.com/webassets/kpna/catalog/pdf/en/1084213_2.pdf
I also am concerned at his process of DRILLING through the lip instead of using fender washers above the lip.
Drilling will decrease the waterproofing. After experiencing water damage, I want ALL the watershed possible.
Silicone is fine for the overflow plumbers putty for the drain
Plumbers putty will harm the acrylic tub.
@@megankimble7497
WROOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG.
There is an acrylic compatable non staining putty.
@@keithtomczyk4730 yes....silicone
@@pvb9964
for the overflow ,yes
Drain =putty
rubber or silicone gasket is what most kits ship with these days
I put in an acrylic tub. The front bottom continues to move. I tried a very good silicone bead along the bottom front and it came loose. Any suggestions?