I learned the hard way myself. I had two x8s in my 2019 silverado. I wanted them just to say I had x8. Big mistake! The amount of money I spent after that was ridiculous to push them. Buddy came with 2 sa 8 and hit harder than mine. I felt sick. Professor is really speaking the truth! Please listen folks!👏👏💯💯💪💪
Fuck! Never seen anyone speak facts about car audio like you MBE, damn! You giving out free knowledge like a teacher that’s getting paid thousands of dollars to teach for free!!! Mad respect to you Boss!👌🏼
I think the problem is, alot of the information out there isn't in terms we understand. So, I'm glad that you're putting good info out there that a beginner like me can grasp and apply.
Not 1 amp can put out rated power without current supplied by car.....most unfun thing in car audio......alt. and power upgrades should be first part of big install...instead of last..
I love it!! Especially when he said google and look it up for yourself. People want you to do the research for them but yet will stay on stay on social media all day instead of finding it out for themselves. I deal with the same issues performing mechanical work on cars. Another awesome informational video. Great content.
20 years ago I bought the sub first then with left over money bought the amp and never upgraded the charging system. Now I know and do the reverse order. When I do small builds people dont believe it. Keep up the great work.
You know what would be awesome to see is, buying super cheap subwoofers that ppl dont want and putting then in your bad ass enclosures and listen to them pound ..MB
An that's a FACT ..listen to MB..I did upgrade my electrical my H2 Hummer,,OFC, 1 Stinger Relay 500 amp , 1 Alternator Mechman 370 , 2 Oddessy AGM Extreme. What a big difference of POWER more efficiency .. My next step is to custom build box 1 15L7 by MB .. in a few months from now ...Will keep you posted MB....
Cheapest way. Grab a good fosgate amp. Grab a few kicker comps with a large box sealed or ported. Something with something fused for like 40-50 amps. Feed it a clean signal. Get good factory replacements amped for like 50 watts. Everything will pull a reasonable clamp and it will sound amazing. The volume between 50-150 watts clean in the car is not noticeable. Go like 3 to 1 on the factory to sub power and your good. 50-60 watts on the replacements and like 350-500 on the sub in the best box you can find crossed over where crossed the highs. Good starting point. All that craziness just sound like crap and it opens up nothing but problems.
A lesson for some hard headed people man. Keep up those videos man. Appreciate the content. Not everyone has the patience to teach people about car audio and how it works
I think this is one of the few videos we can agree with one another on, most people don't have the electrical or space to push the subs in their vehicle
Thank you for putting out all this knowledge what you're doing is important for the culture👊🏽 I'm a DJ so I play on sound systems but this will be the first time I'm putting one in a car and I know it's completely different so I'm learning as much as I can lol keep doing what you're doing and Nuff respect🔊 from the 6ix🇨🇦 aka Toronto✈️🔥🔥🔥
You know you just hurt a lot of peoples feelings. There used to be a sign in this beat shop I used to go, “Just because it sounds good in your friends car doesn’t mean its going to sound good in yours” Keep putting out these videos your doing your thing.
You right bruh.i been at this for over 30yrs and I try to educate the youth but they still believe in the bigger is better logic.i tell them 2 12s in the right box will sound better than 4 in a undersized enclosure.i may as well talk to the wall..lol good channel bruh✊🏾
Got a honda civic 170a s series mechman and a d5100r. paired with 12 SA classic 750 rms, morel fronts 2 way, c vega rear coaxial horns. jp95 amp. You are preaching the truth.
I have a single JL TW1 10 on a Rockford prime R500. The sub is 4 ohm, in a custom enclosure built to JL specs, so it only sees about 300 watts. It doesn’t do hair tricks, it doesn’t distort the sheet metal of the car, but with proper tuning, sound deadening and a few old school tricks it gets pretty loud. I am happy for now, may add a second on and go sealed, and increase the power by running at two ohms.
The knowledge is always appreciated for sure, but this guy right here also knows and has good taste in tires. I see them Falken Wildpeak AT3W's in the background! Wheels and tires is what I do for a living in North GA.
It's good to be re assured what i built my setup for is correct. 2 8s and a 8 ohm Kenwood 12 series parallel, Kenwood 300watt amp clamping 517watts. Group 65 agm, limitles 5k and old school 10 farad cap. Figured I would do 128-130db. I got 131.4 on music. 135 on a 46hz tone. Trunk of a Civic. Sealed with .4 ohm rise max. And honestly as a daily I'm more than happy with it. Also tried to keep my build period correct.
Your knowledge is helping brother, I can assure you it is! Keep it real, sometimes you have to hurt some feelings to get people to change. Keep up the good content.💯
@JAM210 facts bro I take this knowledge to these audio shop guess and they are so baffled when I tell them some shit they thought I didn't know or some shit they didn't know 😂
Thank you so much I'm about to share the hell out of this video because I'm tired of answering and trying to explain this exact scenario thank you so much
This Video bro it feels like u were talking about me/to me, I got 15inch comp subs and my Alt Amperage is 80amps I know it's extremely underpowered but I'm actually impressed with the performance. I am thinking of getting a 2nd battery thoe!! Love your work bro all the way from South Africa NUZ🇿🇦
I'm curious your opinion on manufacturer prefab boxes like the kicker dual L7 ported. Are they designed around SQ or SPL or maybe a middle ground between the two. Do you tend to recommend larger volume enclosures when compared to the manufacture loaded prefabs?
Yep! People whole plan change when they figure out they’re going to need a $700+ mechman elite 370 AND 2-3 120ah agm batts or a large lithium…not to mention 2-3 runs of some reputable OFC 1/0. Plus all the lugs, grounds, jumps of wire from batt to batt and batt to amps etc, dual inputs, quad and six input battery terminals and so on and so forth. Shit adds up to $2-3000 to power a SINGLE $600 sundown x12 or ZV5. But real talk it is what it is to do it RIGHT! 💯💯 anyways, rant over haha. I guess I should’ve watched more than two minutes of the video before I commented LOL… That’s how my first comment ended up posted. Anyways like I said keep up the great work and correct knowledge… Definitely need more people spreading the truth in our industry as you already know!
So I'll give you my setup I've got a single 390amp alt running 15.9v charging it clamps 411amps I built a 60cell yinglong bank that's 350ah of lithium that bank will power 50,000 watts of continuous and peak pulls of over 100,000 watts for 30 second bursts I'm running 2 Orion hcca 17,000.1dsplx each amp will clamp 22,000 watts of power per amp after rise my subs are 2 18inch deaf bonce apocalypse dbsa418d1s im running 0.5 ohm on each sub and wired to each amp they are in a 6th order series tuned wall I built. The hole build costed me over $20,000 the reason I tell you this is cause you are absolutely correct you can't have big subs and a big powerful amp without having a big reserve in power and you have to have the proper amount of air space for your woofers if you adequately want to use them I see it all too often dude by a ton of woofers and they want to cram it all in there but they don't have the power to back at and they don't have the room for the enclosure that they need and then they wonder why it sounds like garbage or they're blowing their stuff up.
MB dammm, you speak truth....I'm sitting here right now with a banging ass quality system nasty ass electrical upgrade , but my box is choking my dam subs to death cause I have not got the proper space for true dominions box build......
MB speaking truth... i am constantly trying to convince people that 2 8's under a truck seat will sound much better than 4 8's...its about the box, air space, efficiency...and what amp are you using....here is a prime example. I have a stock GMC Sierra 1500 truck 2015...my stock alternator put out 160 amps of current max. My amps are Audio Control LC 1.1500 and a Audio Control LC 4.800...The 1500 watt amp has 4 30 amp fuses and the 4.800 has 2 40 amp fuses. add that together you get 240 of current draw if the voltage is correct and everything is tuned correctly. I have a 4 AWG kit running from the stock battery with an 85 amp fuse (stinger) I have never blown that fuse.....think about that. I am drawing less than half the current these amps will produce....so i haven't even heard what these amps can do actually and it sounds great...very high quality speaker all around including subs. Eventually i will upgrade the alternator and go to a zero gage wiring to get more performance but the point is MB is speaking truth...it takes power to make power and in Car Audio its called voltage and the ability to store amperage in droves. out....peace MB
I have learned a lot from your videos, even tho I’ve been doing this for decades. My question is about my subs efficiency, I understand the electrical needs, I understand the TS parameters give me the info I need to figure out the efficiency, but I’m not sure how to arrive at the answer of their efficiency. 2021 version Kicker comp R 12’s seemed to be a good choice for my application, I admit that my crew cab truck presents challenges for two 12” subs, but I am willing to sacrifice seating for BASS.
If your going to pull the backseats out I’d get a high output Alt big as you can afford then go from there. Build a good audio foundation and you can’t go wrong. But those kickers you should sell once you realize what you can power ie get the subs/ box to match LAST And is go custom made subs -Robot Underground
I just subscribed to you my friend and I thank you for putting this information out there as far as knowing your sub and it’s requirements. In the past I have had go elsewhere because I told them that you can get better performance from 2-eights rather than using those 2-twelves in a sub par enclosure. But also you have guys that would rather brag about the size and don’t care about optimum performance. Great channel keep it going my friend.
I feel you on that, I have two sundown x12 v3 but only one is in a custom box about to get another box made for both,but my electrical system is 320 amp mechman, big 4 ,xs power D3400 under the hood and Kinetic 2400Hc in the back and about to upgrade to xs power D3100 in the back
I agree. But also just 1 sub at mod power (say 750w) should be good. Those subs are heavy weight thus hit hard if powered right. U can daily them, but might be a bit much. Also, people are generally not running full tilt.
You are right however Some of us that are on budgets buy theses high rms comp subs because we like the craftsmenship that goes into them along with the durability and the reliability of them lasting a very long time it is perfectly OK to underpower theses subs as long as we're keeping the signal clean, we're also ok with having plenty of room for improvements in away it keeps the hobby moving forward for us, and thoes not on a budget buy this stuff because they can this kinda ties into your other video but opposite meaning of it...anyways if we buy 2 500rms subs and 1 1500rms amplifer a proper box and extra battery upgraded alt the build is now over and the only way to gain more improvements is to just throw it all out and start over again some of us build without throwing it all out and thats where the reliability of thoes subs come into play ,, the money is going to be spent either way there is no right or wrong way to spend the money on equipment unless you have a certain set goal of something to be acheaved right away which I beleave to be your point in this video
Yea. I learned this stuff the hard way. I have a 4000 RMS sub with a 2000 Watt Amp on a stock Alternator and I can confidently say that I am heavily disappointed because I didn't do it right or know how to do it right when I bought. Now I am left with a starving system and Parts that I just can't afford to buy at the moment. Listen to what this man has to say. Or learn it the hard way yourself. Do your research. Don't just go out and buy top of the line Subs thinking you have what it takes to push it when you're making min. wage because I guarantee that most of you don't.
Did another test swapped custom cvx one 12 box tuned 33hz with a custom one sa12 tuned 33hz the radio goes to 50/63 clean. I keep my volume at around 22 to 28 daily its plenty loud I can feel all lows and highs hear all dynamics with cvx and its impactful. That Sa 12 is the most inefficient sub I ever owned had to turn volume up well into the 40s just to hear and boy was it sloppy non dynamic sluggish not musical at all. I immediately took that bullcrap out. How did sa get in the game this inefficient crap awful terrible never will run that garbage they got these people fooled who don't know anything about bass! Sa 84 senstivity yeah right more like 78 they some liars. Love your work MB God Bless!
Thank you for all the info your putting out here for us.. I’ve been designing and building sub boxes recently for family members. Learning the ropes to what really makes a good vs bad build. I’d like your opinion on how accurate the term pro software is in regards to the plotted SPL graph. I don’t have an spl meter to test the actual spl vs what the software says. For example: I watched a RUclips give his box design dimensions and tuning while showing the spl meter hit 150 but I went to compare in the term pro software and the build claimed 125 SPL so where would this extra 25 SPL come from? Over powering the subs briefly or cabin gain??
Love the real live knowledge. I have just one Sundown SA classic 12 in a ported store box. Rated 1.77 cubs. Real cubs after everything is removed from the 1.77 cubs. Real is close to 1.55 cubs. Should be around 1.7 . Sounds fine. But I could only imagine one from you 🙂 Talk your shit and enlighten us.
I went from kicker L7 15’ with kicker amp all stock electrical to sundown. Is sundown louder? Hell yes. What did it take to make it louder? About 3k in electrical alone. Also a 4.5cf sounds best IMO with the x12’s if you run enough power to them. Peace
Nicely put! Big wallets don't mean big power! But everyone eyes are bigger than their heads, and FB isn't helping this situation get better they making it worse! I've been in this game for over 30+ years seen and owned/installed the top brands everyone has to have, just so they can keep up with the Joneses! "Try keeping up with your electrical first then maybe the equipment you can produce what it was designed for, then you might- just might have bragging rights" I've got people showing up to my garage with 4000/3000/2000/ even 1500 watts quality amps with 4 guage CCA kits, bragging thier buddies hitting big numbers with a stock alternator, stock battery, prefab box no baffle 5/8" thick and tell me they are gonna hit 150's plus! ""Pshhhitt please ! your dreaming and your bragging buddy is an idiot believing hype from online media" I'm in Maine and we have a severe lack of education in bass and audio systems due to poor salesman and chain stores who gotta make their nut! Most philosophy is taillight give a shit! As soon as the taillights pass the corner and can't be seen they(dealers) don't give 2 shits what happens to you! Thanks for making your videos and helping the poorly educated hopefully get correct! Congrats on the Kicker recognition! that's huge a acknowledgement from the real OG's
Hey bro u are awesome I got the b2 rage 15 an I don't know what kind of box to put it in the spec call for 5 cubes I have a 530 xi.wagon I'm thinking about a horn if possible
I learned the hard way myself. I had two x8s in my 2019 silverado. I wanted them just to say I had x8. Big mistake! The amount of money I spent after that was ridiculous to push them. Buddy came with 2 sa 8 and hit harder than mine. I felt sick. Professor is really speaking the truth! Please listen folks!👏👏💯💯💪💪
I’m shocked there aren’t more views on this video. Great information
Fuck! Never seen anyone speak facts about car audio like you MBE, damn! You giving out free knowledge like a teacher that’s getting paid thousands of dollars to teach for free!!! Mad respect to you Boss!👌🏼
Finally someone who can break this shit down I ain’t found no one that’ll break down a subject so we can understand like this
500 to 1000rms is enough power for me in car audio!!!!!💯👍!
Yep, especially in a daily driver.
I think the problem is, alot of the information out there isn't in terms we understand. So, I'm glad that you're putting good info out there that a beginner like me can grasp and apply.
HellcatD your right , that's how I found this channel to understand more about car audio
It's like being in a sermon. Preach my man preach. Everything that comes out your mouth is genius...I learn so much...
Another great video brought to you by Professor MBEnclosures!!! Keep it it up sir, knowledge is power!!!
I’m upset it took me so long to understand this concept, I’ve could have had me dream system by now. Great info MB!
I don’t trust all subwoofer amplifiers I believe all subwoofer amplifiers lie
@@patrick7799 Only 4 companies I trust when it comes to amps: DD Audio, Kicker (KX line), Rockford Fosgate and Alpine
@@michaelgray668 Modern Korean amps typically don't lie. Its all about the $.
Not 1 amp can put out rated power without current supplied by car.....most unfun thing in car audio......alt. and power upgrades should be first part of big install...instead of last..
@@loudelvis610 Lol your tellin me My battery alt ,wires and fuse block are about dead even with the cost of my amp and subs.
This is one smart man on car audio!! So proud I found this channel on RUclips I’ve gained so much knowledge from his videos!!! Thanks MBE
I love it!! Especially when he said google and look it up for yourself. People want you to do the research for them but yet will stay on stay on social media all day instead of finding it out for themselves. I deal with the same issues performing mechanical work on cars. Another awesome informational video. Great content.
20 years ago I bought the sub first then with left over money bought the amp and never upgraded the charging system. Now I know and do the reverse order. When I do small builds people dont believe it. Keep up the great work.
An alternator and big 3 upgrade is a must for almost any setup along with a custom box build specifically for your sub. If not you're wasting money
You know what would be awesome to see is, buying super cheap subwoofers that ppl dont want and putting then in your bad ass enclosures and listen to them pound ..MB
Hell yea get some walmart subs or some $20 pyles 🤣
An that's a FACT ..listen to MB..I did upgrade my electrical my H2 Hummer,,OFC, 1 Stinger Relay 500 amp , 1 Alternator Mechman 370 , 2 Oddessy AGM Extreme. What a big difference of POWER more efficiency .. My next step is to custom build box 1 15L7 by MB .. in a few months from now ...Will keep you posted MB....
I have learned more watching your channel for two days than I ever have watching others for 5 years. Appreciate it. keep it up.
This is exactly why I'm keepin it smart and simple! Just get an entire daily driver package to include a DSP from you!
I really appreciate the way you explain things.
Cheapest way. Grab a good fosgate amp. Grab a few kicker comps with a large box sealed or ported. Something with something fused for like 40-50 amps. Feed it a clean signal. Get good factory replacements amped for like 50 watts. Everything will pull a reasonable clamp and it will sound amazing.
The volume between 50-150 watts clean in the car is not noticeable.
Go like 3 to 1 on the factory to sub power and your good.
50-60 watts on the replacements and like 350-500 on the sub in the best box you can find crossed over where crossed the highs. Good starting point.
All that craziness just sound like crap and it opens up nothing but problems.
Can’t argue with physics. Takes power to make power. But there is real magic in audio-it’s in the box being made RIGHT.
Man I really like your channel, thank you for being honest and informative.
Hahaha! I'm dead bubba! Ya got me with the "How" how you makin' that power ain't no way! I appreciate ya bubba.
Your right. A lot of boxes aren’t big enough. I see it all the time. I just have one 10 and it is LOUD. Proper box.
A lesson for some hard headed people man. Keep up those videos man. Appreciate the content. Not everyone has the patience to teach people about car audio and how it works
I think this is one of the few videos we can agree with one another on, most people don't have the electrical or space to push the subs in their vehicle
Facts. Definitely don’t want inefficient subs in a daily driver since the extra electrical power comes with a loss in fuel mileage.
Or do like me and put a 320 amp alternator under the hood ($360) and 48 ah lithium bank (250) and I can support a lotta watts. Cheaply
Thank you for putting out all this knowledge what you're doing is important for the culture👊🏽 I'm a DJ so I play on sound systems but this will be the first time I'm putting one in a car and I know it's completely different so I'm learning as much as I can lol keep doing what you're doing and Nuff respect🔊 from the 6ix🇨🇦 aka Toronto✈️🔥🔥🔥
Stand your ground. Don’t build something you wouldn’t be happy with. Much respect for keeping that real
I agree he is just saving his customers disappointment. It's about bumping all day not for 20mins cause ur coils are too hot
You know you just hurt a lot of peoples feelings. There used to be a sign in this beat shop I used to go, “Just because it sounds good in your friends car doesn’t mean its going to sound good in yours” Keep putting out these videos your doing your thing.
Just finished my first custom box today thank you for all the tips and information it sounds exactly how i wanted the program works great
Sound engineer always to me to start with your budget. Then you can determine which direction to go got. He’s definitely on point!
You right bruh.i been at this for over 30yrs and I try to educate the youth but they still believe in the bigger is better logic.i tell them 2 12s in the right box will sound better than 4 in a undersized enclosure.i may as well talk to the wall..lol good channel bruh✊🏾
Facts he does really ask your setup y’all! He knows his shit and his boxes are the truth! Would happily pay it all again! Worth the money!
I appreciate your videos boss. Loaded with information that helps me out.
Got a honda civic 170a s series mechman and a d5100r. paired with 12 SA classic 750 rms, morel fronts 2 way, c vega rear coaxial horns. jp95 amp. You are preaching the truth.
I've learned a lot from watching your videos man, keep doing you..
I appreciate that!
Speaking truth. Thank you for the knowledge. Killer channel.
I have a single JL TW1 10 on a Rockford prime R500. The sub is 4 ohm, in a custom enclosure built to JL specs, so it only sees about 300 watts. It doesn’t do hair tricks, it doesn’t distort the sheet metal of the car, but with proper tuning, sound deadening and a few old school tricks it gets pretty loud. I am happy for now, may add a second on and go sealed, and increase the power by running at two ohms.
Speaking facts. Some get into the game but don’t do the research.
The knowledge is always appreciated for sure, but this guy right here also knows and has good taste in tires. I see them Falken Wildpeak AT3W's in the background! Wheels and tires is what I do for a living in North GA.
this information and your channel is priceless. listen up! love your channel.
I love this channel. This guy tells it like it is.
It's good to be re assured what i built my setup for is correct. 2 8s and a 8 ohm Kenwood 12 series parallel, Kenwood 300watt amp clamping 517watts. Group 65 agm, limitles 5k and old school 10 farad cap. Figured I would do 128-130db. I got 131.4 on music. 135 on a 46hz tone. Trunk of a Civic. Sealed with .4 ohm rise max. And honestly as a daily I'm more than happy with it. Also tried to keep my build period correct.
Your knowledge is helping brother, I can assure you it is! Keep it real, sometimes you have to hurt some feelings to get people to change. Keep up the good content.💯
@JAM210 facts bro I take this knowledge to these audio shop guess and they are so baffled when I tell them some shit they thought I didn't know or some shit they didn't know 😂
MB great content every video I click,im absorbing so much !! IDk how your phone be blowing up I can’t wait call you for my box 💯💯💯
Thanks for your channel. Ive learn so much👍🏿
Thank you so much I'm about to share the hell out of this video because I'm tired of answering and trying to explain this exact scenario thank you so much
Nothing but FACTS here! Love it.
Game tight! I'm learning here folks....Blessings.
Cheers watching getting great info thanks
This Video bro it feels like u were talking about me/to me, I got 15inch comp subs and my Alt Amperage is 80amps I know it's extremely underpowered but I'm actually impressed with the performance. I am thinking of getting a 2nd battery thoe!!
Love your work bro all the way from South Africa NUZ🇿🇦
You got a great market strategy
The knowledge u drop is priceless!! Truly appreciate u fam!!
I'm curious your opinion on manufacturer prefab boxes like the kicker dual L7 ported. Are they designed around SQ or SPL or maybe a middle ground between the two. Do you tend to recommend larger volume enclosures when compared to the manufacture loaded prefabs?
Yea this channel is for me my girl gettingtired of me watching these on the big screen
Me so I just go in the man cave it’s a long story!
Ready to hear the wetness of RF PUNCH difference from power acoustik 2500.1..
spitting out that real knowledge, BOOMSHAKALAKA
Yep! People whole plan change when they figure out they’re going to need a $700+ mechman elite 370 AND 2-3 120ah agm batts or a large lithium…not to mention 2-3 runs of some reputable OFC 1/0. Plus all the lugs, grounds, jumps of wire from batt to batt and batt to amps etc, dual inputs, quad and six input battery terminals and so on and so forth. Shit adds up to $2-3000 to power a SINGLE $600 sundown x12 or ZV5. But real talk it is what it is to do it RIGHT! 💯💯 anyways, rant over haha. I guess I should’ve watched more than two minutes of the video before I commented LOL… That’s how my first comment ended up posted. Anyways like I said keep up the great work and correct knowledge… Definitely need more people spreading the truth in our industry as you already know!
💯keeping it 💯 that’s what’s up.
So I'll give you my setup I've got a single 390amp alt running 15.9v charging it clamps 411amps I built a 60cell yinglong bank that's 350ah of lithium that bank will power 50,000 watts of continuous and peak pulls of over 100,000 watts for 30 second bursts I'm running 2 Orion hcca 17,000.1dsplx each amp will clamp 22,000 watts of power per amp after rise my subs are 2 18inch deaf bonce apocalypse dbsa418d1s im running 0.5 ohm on each sub and wired to each amp they are in a 6th order series tuned wall I built. The hole build costed me over $20,000 the reason I tell you this is cause you are absolutely correct you can't have big subs and a big powerful amp without having a big reserve in power and you have to have the proper amount of air space for your woofers if you adequately want to use them I see it all too often dude by a ton of woofers and they want to cram it all in there but they don't have the power to back at and they don't have the room for the enclosure that they need and then they wonder why it sounds like garbage or they're blowing their stuff up.
Thanks for the knowledge brother🙌
ayo u da fkn man son , im in NYC , i only introduce YOUR vids to niggas out here tryna upgrade they trunk ... keep it up OG
MB dammm, you speak truth....I'm sitting here right now with a banging ass quality system nasty ass electrical upgrade , but my box is choking my dam subs to death cause I have not got the proper space for true dominions box build......
Everything he said is 💯 true 💯 👍
I love love this channel
MB speaking truth... i am constantly trying to convince people that 2 8's under a truck seat will sound much better than 4 8's...its about the box, air space, efficiency...and what amp are you using....here is a prime example. I have a stock GMC Sierra 1500 truck 2015...my stock alternator put out 160 amps of current max. My amps are Audio Control LC 1.1500 and a Audio Control LC 4.800...The 1500 watt amp has 4 30 amp fuses and the 4.800 has 2 40 amp fuses. add that together you get 240 of current draw if the voltage is correct and everything is tuned correctly. I have a 4 AWG kit running from the stock battery with an 85 amp fuse (stinger) I have never blown that fuse.....think about that. I am drawing less than half the current these amps will produce....so i haven't even heard what these amps can do actually and it sounds great...very high quality speaker all around including subs. Eventually i will upgrade the alternator and go to a zero gage wiring to get more performance but the point is MB is speaking truth...it takes power to make power and in Car Audio its called voltage and the ability to store amperage in droves. out....peace MB
I have learned a lot from your videos, even tho I’ve been doing this for decades. My question is about my subs efficiency, I understand the electrical needs, I understand the TS parameters give me the info I need to figure out the efficiency, but I’m not sure how to arrive at the answer of their efficiency. 2021 version Kicker comp R 12’s seemed to be a good choice for my application, I admit that my crew cab truck presents challenges for two 12” subs, but I am willing to sacrifice seating for BASS.
If your going to pull the backseats out I’d get a high output Alt big as you can afford then go from there. Build a good audio foundation and you can’t go wrong. But those kickers you should sell once you realize what you can power ie get the subs/ box to match LAST And is go custom made subs -Robot Underground
Facts took me awhile to learn and I'm still learning.
You happen to know wire colors at the radio for a 2022 ford escape?
I just subscribed to you my friend and I thank you for putting this information out there as far as knowing your sub and it’s requirements. In the past I have had go elsewhere because I told them that you can get better performance from 2-eights rather than using those 2-twelves in a sub par enclosure. But also you have guys that would rather brag about the size and don’t care about optimum performance. Great channel keep it going my friend.
I've got more money in my electrical than my audio most people don't realize that
Rule number 1💯💯💯💯
Great info thanks
Glad I found you brother 🙏 much respect. Do you make boxes and ship for your viewers?
Yes sir
MB💪😂😂I ain't got no pixi dust
I got single resilient sounds team 15 on a mechman 240 and a 180ah Cmax 15.5v in a 2012 accord trunk on a bass 8k and don’t drop less than 14.6v.
I feel you on that, I have two sundown x12 v3 but only one is in a custom box about to get another box made for both,but my electrical system is 320 amp mechman, big 4 ,xs power D3400 under the hood and Kinetic 2400Hc in the back and about to upgrade to xs power D3100 in the back
5000 watts on a 110amp alternator🤣🤣🤣Guys be killing me🤣🤣‼️just know they gone make it home🤣🤣🪫🪫😳
So true
I agree. But also just 1 sub at mod power (say 750w) should be good. Those subs are heavy weight thus hit hard if powered right. U can daily them, but might be a bit much. Also, people are generally not running full tilt.
Kickers are underrated but ima rock with them. And I can afford the so called top of the line.
Hahaha "im not making these videos so you can see my face"
I worked at a shop in 1996. And have argued this so many times
mb always keeps it real
💯 explained very well
LOVE YA BROTHER MUCH LOVE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Putting people to shame with that truth, and here I am thinking I'm banging with my JL Audio 12s on stock electrical system
You are right however Some of us that are on budgets buy theses high rms comp subs because we like the craftsmenship that goes into them along with the durability and the reliability of them lasting a very long time it is perfectly OK to underpower theses subs as long as we're keeping the signal clean, we're also ok with having plenty of room for improvements in away it keeps the hobby moving forward for us, and thoes not on a budget buy this stuff because they can this kinda ties into your other video but opposite meaning of it...anyways if we buy 2 500rms subs and 1 1500rms amplifer a proper box and extra battery upgraded alt the build is now over and the only way to gain more improvements is to just throw it all out and start over again some of us build without throwing it all out and thats where the reliability of thoes subs come into play ,, the money is going to be spent either way there is no right or wrong way to spend the money on equipment unless you have a certain set goal of something to be acheaved right away which I beleave to be your point in this video
OG spitting knowledge!!!!! Let’s go!!!!
Yea. I learned this stuff the hard way. I have a 4000 RMS sub with a 2000 Watt Amp on a stock Alternator and I can confidently say that I am heavily disappointed because I didn't do it right or know how to do it right when I bought. Now I am left with a starving system and Parts that I just can't afford to buy at the moment. Listen to what this man has to say. Or learn it the hard way yourself. Do your research. Don't just go out and buy top of the line Subs thinking you have what it takes to push it when you're making min. wage because I guarantee that most of you don't.
Great knowledge drop!
Did another test swapped custom cvx one 12 box tuned 33hz with a custom one sa12 tuned 33hz the radio goes to 50/63 clean. I keep my volume at around 22 to 28 daily its plenty loud I can feel all lows and highs hear all dynamics with cvx and its impactful. That Sa 12 is the most inefficient sub I ever owned had to turn volume up well into the 40s just to hear and boy was it sloppy non dynamic sluggish not musical at all. I immediately took that bullcrap out. How did sa get in the game this inefficient crap awful terrible never will run that garbage they got these people fooled who don't know anything about bass! Sa 84 senstivity yeah right more like 78 they some liars. Love your work MB God Bless!
I subscribed
ALL FACTS BIG FACTS!!!!
Thank you for all the info your putting out here for us..
I’ve been designing and building sub boxes recently for family members. Learning the ropes to what really makes a good vs bad build.
I’d like your opinion on how accurate the term pro software is in regards to the plotted SPL graph.
I don’t have an spl meter to test the actual spl vs what the software says.
For example: I watched a RUclips give his box design dimensions and tuning while showing the spl meter hit 150 but I went to compare in the term pro software and the build claimed 125 SPL so where would this extra 25 SPL come from? Over powering the subs briefly or cabin gain??
Wish I found this channel a min ago
Take these kats to skool my brother 👍 like i have to tell my ole lady sometimes you doin 2 much😆
Love the real live knowledge. I have just one Sundown SA classic 12 in a ported store box. Rated 1.77 cubs. Real cubs after everything is removed from the 1.77 cubs. Real is close to 1.55 cubs. Should be around 1.7 . Sounds fine. But I could only imagine one from you 🙂
Talk your shit and enlighten us.
I went from kicker L7 15’ with kicker amp all stock electrical to sundown. Is sundown louder? Hell yes. What did it take to make it louder? About 3k in electrical alone. Also a 4.5cf sounds best IMO with the x12’s if you run enough power to them. Peace
Nicely put! Big wallets don't mean big power! But everyone eyes are bigger than their heads, and FB isn't helping this situation get better they making it worse! I've been in this game for over 30+ years seen and owned/installed the top brands everyone has to have, just so they can keep up with the Joneses! "Try keeping up with your electrical first then maybe the equipment you can produce what it was designed for, then you might- just might have bragging rights" I've got people showing up to my garage with 4000/3000/2000/ even 1500 watts quality amps with 4 guage CCA kits, bragging thier buddies hitting big numbers with a stock alternator, stock battery, prefab box no baffle 5/8" thick and tell me they are gonna hit 150's plus! ""Pshhhitt please ! your dreaming and your bragging buddy is an idiot believing hype from online media" I'm in Maine and we have a severe lack of education in bass and audio systems due to poor salesman and chain stores who gotta make their nut! Most philosophy is taillight give a shit! As soon as the taillights pass the corner and can't be seen they(dealers) don't give 2 shits what happens to you!
Thanks for making your videos and helping the poorly educated hopefully get correct! Congrats on the Kicker recognition! that's huge a acknowledgement from the real OG's
Hey bro u are awesome I got the b2 rage 15 an I don't know what kind of box to put it in the spec call for 5 cubes I have a 530 xi.wagon I'm thinking about a horn if possible