10:00 I really appreciate your note about the wood type. This is basically the first thing I will be building in terms of woodworking. I didn't know what wood to get at all and what's good and not. Guess 3/4 in Birch it is.
Thanks for that! Normally when a guy welds something, he doesn't use a TIG... that was kind of impressive, as my attempts to do so have been abject failures :-) Very nice commentary by the way. I appreciated that you shared your experience with the cheaper plywood. That has exactly been my experience in the past, and it made me feel a bit better to see that someone else has experienced the same. I guess misery loves company... anyway, thanks for the great video!
+David Kennedy I have a mig welder as well but the TIG welds are way more precise and beautiful. I spent many years welding race car chassis roll cages. All that work is TIG welded or it won't pass inspection. MIG isn't allowed in race cars, or airplane tube frames. There's a reason for it. Once you learn TIG, you won't want to mig or stick ever again. You can do it.... just a little practice. I have a mig welder but rarely use it. Especially for small stuff that requires precision. The TIG is sooooo satisfying! As for the cheap plywood. Its a learning experience. Never again! My dad always had an old Cuban saying... "Lo barato vale caro." Translated, it means, cheap stuff costs more. Thanks for your kind comments and I hope you have a great new year!
Since I watched this video, I check my inbox each five minutes for notifications of the following videos. I can not wait to see how the project ends, to start mine. Please, do not be late.
+Carlos Mayer believe me... I can't wait to get it done myself! I can't wait to put this to use. So many projects I want to do. Christmas has really slowed me down because I'm really busy at work and preparing for the holidays. The honey-do list never ends. As soon as the holiday stuff is over I'm going to be back to work on it. I haven't forgotten.
I know this is old, and I haven't searched through all of the comments to see if anyone else talked about the Sande plywood, but it's a marine grade plywood that uses water resistant glue so it's good for areas where there may be some moisture issues. Yes it is more splintery, but with a good sanding or round-over, it works really well.
Looks good Special thanks for the tip on the sanded plywood. I was in Home Depot and looking at plywood for a wall of bookcases and had the same thought process as you!
Well, thank you! I love the tig machine. I learned to tig when i was building race cars for a living. Now i do it for fun. I really enjoy welding. I know that might sound crazy. As for stock welding. I was never too good at that process. Stick welders here in Texas make big money on the pipeline.
Hey, first off, I love your miter table. I have watched A LOT of you tube videos(even Jay Bates) on how to make them and I like yours best of all. I only have a 7ft space to make one and I'll have to put wheels on it cause I have a one car garage. Do you have a plan that I can buy with all the sizes to make it. This will be my first DIY project. I'm a beginner. My saw sits on the floor. Really need a table. Thanks.
Nice job man. I'm in the process of building my miter saw station also. I've also been burned by the sandewood ply from HD. Same problems, splinters everywhere. Live and learn.
OK, Watching video so far and liking it. But If I may make a comment about pocket jointing,? If you are doing a several screw joint I find it to be a better joint if you start with the middle screw and work outward from center back and forth. Nice Saws by the way.
Lol. I have no clue who Scott Phillips is. I'll have to look him up. I don't do much gluing on plywood because it doesn't hold much on end grain. I don't have much faith in pocket screws either, so that's why i use a bunch. Thanks for commenting!
as far saving money with a lesser grade of ply wood , who going see it but , remember this they in your shop over time they nick and cut and all kinds scratches , so it all save that money it help in the long run
I like how easy this looks, but why did you make the cabinets so high? They come up to your chest! Just one other thing, I was glad to see you wearing a mask while cutting the wood, but do you realize what you are setting yourself up for by not using a riving knife? I know, I know you've been using the table saw without one for years and you never had an issue right? Your nieve to think nothing will happen because one day you won't be prepared when a piece of wood shoots back and into your gut. It happened to me and if the piece of wood had been narrower it would have impaled me. I had a nasty bruise for months and I never use the table saw without a riving knife again.I look forward to part 2.
When you do a really light cut going backwards, it scores the top of the board. Then when you do the full cut, the top of the board won't chip out. When you do the full cut, the teeth are coming up through the board and will splinter out. If it was already scored, it doesn't do that. It's the easiest way to get a clean cut. I hope that made sense.
Shooting a Brad nail in to A metal washer with no safety glasses, your chancing fate bro, I do some silly things on the shop to but protect your peepers.
Hey man, how do you like that saw? I'm on the market and I almost bought it, until I realized that the sliders on all the display I could find are stiff as can be. Too difficult to push through. Compared to other options. Are you happy with it and do you think the pros outweigh the cons? The pros, too me as a shopper are the space saving design, a straight down the middle handle to even out pressure, and the biggest thing I've noticed is that the miter detents and stops seem to really hold it snug and solid. Almost as good as the 600$ Dewalt. I've been going towards, Ridgids version (but huge), what you have, or the 10in hitachi (which seems to be under powered, but the smoothest glide and most space saving of all, but apparently is WAY under powered) or this delta Cruze that I could buy at menards right now for under 500$ (but no laser OR shadow lights of any sort) or lastly, this kobalt 12 in was overpriced at 300$ but it just dropped to 200$ and now it's messing me up on my decision. I bought the 12in Chicago electric on Black Friday for 130$, set it up and realized it's not straight, never gonna be straight, inaccurate angles and deflected glideing and it's boxed up and going back. Now the kobalt which I wasn't even considering, now seems like easily twice the saw for 200$. That hitachi is 369$ right now with a stand, except I already bought the MSUV. I need to buy before holiday prices end, and I am at about a 400$ budget. As you can see, I'm driving myself crazy. Wondering your opinion on yours. Thank you sir and great work!
+Steven Ayles ... man, I LOVE this saw! #1. My last saw took up way too much space with the sliders going out the back. The space savings is a huge thing for me. 2. This thing is powerful! It rips through anything I can throw at it. Nothing bogs it down. 3. The cuts are straight and accurate. I will admit that I had to spend a bunch of time fiddling with the fences to get EXACT 90 degree cuts. But from then after, the cuts are always exact. 4. The detents on the miter are good. I have learned a little trick on it though. When you release the handle in a detent, I have to push it to the right and then lick down the handle to get it exact. There is just a wee bit of slop in the detent but it's no big deal. 5. The sliders might seem a little stiff on the shelf. I can see what you mean. But in the day to day use, I don't notice it. It slides fine and I don't really feel that its binding or anything. I have zero issue with the sliding mechanism. Also, I have found that the sliding mechanism is perfectly true to the blade. I have seen some saws that cut straight at the fence, but as you slide it out, it doesn't track true with the blade. This saw is perfectly straight from one end of the slider to the other. 6. If you do crown moulding, this thing is awesome. It has all the detents for the weird moulding angles and a high fence that holds the moulding perfectly with no jigs or anything. 7. Reliability.... I've had this saw for about a year and a half, maybe two. Not a lick of trouble. It has been very reliable. 8. The blade.... most times you buy any kind of a saw, you just throw away the blade it comes with because its terrible. This blade cuts very smoothly. It rips right through the material but leaves a pretty smooth finish and no tear out. I've had this saw for a year and a half I think, and I still have the original blade on it. It really saved me from going out and buying a $100 blade right away. Unlike my table saw that came with a junk blade. Now... The three things on this saw that suck... 1. Dust collection.... GARBAGE. completely and totally useless. That's why I'm going to build a cabinet around it and collect dust in the cabinet. This thing makes a huge mess and hooking up a hose does nothing to help. 2. Laser... useless. I'm not much for lasers anyways, so I don't much care about it. The laser has a neat feature that you can adjust it left and right so you can put the laser on either side of the blade. That's kinda cool, except for one thing... The laser is not set in there parallel to the blade. It's kinda cock eyed, so it's inaccurate. As you slide the saw out, the blade gets further away from the laser. Useless. 3. Weight! For me, it doesn't matter how heavy it is. I'm setting it oon this miter station and it will never move again. If you're the type of guy that takes the saw to the job site, it's a monster. I wouldn't want to be moving it around. Overall, I'm super happy with this saw. I think its probably the best value for the money out there. The only two other saws that I would consider are the Bosch glide because of the space savings, or the Festool Kapex. The problem with both of those saws is they are out of my price range. For the features that you get in this saw, I can't find another saw in the price range that can compete. The Makita was inaccurate. The Dewalt sliders go back into the wall and needs too much space. Same with the Ridgid. Oh, and don't even bother with the 10 inch saws. You'll regret it. They are under powered and you will always find yourself wanting more capacity. I'll put it this way.... If I woke tomorrow morning and my saw had been stolen, I wouldn't even spend time shopping around. I would drive down to the store and I would buy the exact same saw without hesitation. I hope this helps you out with your decision. If you buy the saw, let me know what you think!
+Steven Ayles oh... and i also had that Chicago electric saw from harbor freight. It was my first saw. It had good power, I'll give it that. But I agree with what you said. Its not straight. Its great if you're building houses, but not furniture. 45 degree cuts were like 46.5 degrees. Definitely not the saw for woodworkers unless you're just using it to rough cut your lumber.
@termite yeah 1 or 2, but dude you took it to the next level of what not to do and unsafe practices. Read the comments and maybe you’ll realize that you’re not setting a good sample for others specially newby woodworkers. You should take this video down.
10:00 I really appreciate your note about the wood type. This is basically the first thing I will be building in terms of woodworking. I didn't know what wood to get at all and what's good and not. Guess 3/4 in Birch it is.
That would be perfect. Home depot birch or maple or oak plywood is just fine for a shop project. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for that! Normally when a guy welds something, he doesn't use a TIG... that was kind of impressive, as my attempts to do so have been abject failures :-) Very nice commentary by the way. I appreciated that you shared your experience with the cheaper plywood. That has exactly been my experience in the past, and it made me feel a bit better to see that someone else has experienced the same. I guess misery loves company... anyway, thanks for the great video!
+David Kennedy I have a mig welder as well but the TIG welds are way more precise and beautiful. I spent many years welding race car chassis roll cages. All that work is TIG welded or it won't pass inspection. MIG isn't allowed in race cars, or airplane tube frames. There's a reason for it. Once you learn TIG, you won't want to mig or stick ever again. You can do it.... just a little practice. I have a mig welder but rarely use it. Especially for small stuff that requires precision. The TIG is sooooo satisfying!
As for the cheap plywood. Its a learning experience. Never again! My dad always had an old Cuban saying... "Lo barato vale caro." Translated, it means, cheap stuff costs more.
Thanks for your kind comments and I hope you have a great new year!
Since I watched this video, I check my inbox each five minutes for notifications of the following videos. I can not wait to see how the project ends, to start mine. Please, do not be late.
+Carlos Mayer believe me... I can't wait to get it done myself! I can't wait to put this to use. So many projects I want to do. Christmas has really slowed me down because I'm really busy at work and preparing for the holidays. The honey-do list never ends. As soon as the holiday stuff is over I'm going to be back to work on it. I haven't forgotten.
I know this is old, and I haven't searched through all of the comments to see if anyone else talked about the Sande plywood, but it's a marine grade plywood that uses water resistant glue so it's good for areas where there may be some moisture issues. Yes it is more splintery, but with a good sanding or round-over, it works really well.
Did not know that. Interesting. I just didn't like it because the splintering made it difficult to get clean cuts.
Fantastic job!!!
Looks good
Special thanks for the tip on the sanded plywood. I was in Home Depot and looking at plywood for a wall of bookcases and had the same thought process as you!
Sometimes the cheap stuff just ends up costing more in the long run.
nice tig job clean and neet puddles i at one time was a welder stick only we had no tig
Well, thank you! I love the tig machine. I learned to tig when i was building race cars for a living. Now i do it for fun. I really enjoy welding. I know that might sound crazy.
As for stock welding. I was never too good at that process. Stick welders here in Texas make big money on the pipeline.
Hey, first off, I love your miter table. I have watched A LOT of you tube videos(even Jay Bates) on how to make them and I like yours best of all. I only have a 7ft space to make one and I'll have to put wheels on it cause I have a one car garage. Do you have a plan that I can buy with all the sizes to make it. This will be my first DIY project. I'm a beginner. My saw sits on the floor. Really need a table. Thanks.
I know what you mean! My shop time is very limited and having to move and set up as well as looking for everything takes up all my time..
Very nice so far, good job
Nice job man. I'm in the process of building my miter saw station also. I've also been burned by the sandewood ply from HD. Same problems, splinters everywhere. Live and learn.
+zimsjeep definitely not worth the $10 savings.
OK, Watching video so far and liking it. But If I may make a comment about pocket jointing,? If you are doing a several screw joint I find it to be a better joint if you start with the middle screw and work outward from center back and forth. Nice Saws by the way.
Nice miter station! I'm guessing you are a Scott Phillips fan, twice as many screws/pocket hole screws as necessary. Glue is your friend!
Lol. I have no clue who Scott Phillips is. I'll have to look him up. I don't do much gluing on plywood because it doesn't hold much on end grain. I don't have much faith in pocket screws either, so that's why i use a bunch.
Thanks for commenting!
@@termitewoodwerx5896 Scott Phillips is the host of the American Woodshop on PBS
Looking good man. Can't wait for more.
Thank you sir! I am super excited about getting it done. Wish I could work faster on it, but my real job just gets in the way.
beautifully made but never turn around when the sawing machine is running
It might get away?
@@termitewoodwerx5896
no if someone does not see it and touches the saw blade then he must be lucky if he still has his hand
Nice job!!
+Wood & Screw Thrones Too Thank you!
as far saving money with a lesser grade of ply wood , who going see it but , remember this they in your shop over time they nick and cut and all kinds scratches , so it all save that money it help in the long run
I like how easy this looks, but why did you make the cabinets so high? They come up to your chest! Just one other thing, I was glad to see you wearing a mask while cutting the wood, but do you realize what you are setting yourself up for by not using a riving knife? I know, I know you've been using the table saw without one for years and you never had an issue right? Your nieve to think nothing will happen because one day you won't be prepared when a piece of wood shoots back and into your gut. It happened to me and if the piece of wood had been narrower it would have impaled me. I had a nasty bruise for months and I never use the table saw without a riving knife again.I look forward to part 2.
Hey TW, I really enjoyed that, thanks for sharing. I cant find the next part, did you ever publish it?
Just did today. I've been really behind.
@@termitewoodwerx5896 👍
Some dangerous moves in this video, but thankfully you used a glue brush :-)
and no riving knife, standing directly behind in case something gets shot back... natural selection
Any reason you don't use wood glue?
I normally do. But i felt the screws were enough in this case.
Where did you get the zero clearance insert for your table saw?
I made it out of a piece of plexiglass and plywood.
Termite Woodwerx awesome, looks like it was machine built
When you are using drop saw y do u do that cut backwards 1st?
When you do a really light cut going backwards, it scores the top of the board. Then when you do the full cut, the top of the board won't chip out. When you do the full cut, the teeth are coming up through the board and will splinter out. If it was already scored, it doesn't do that. It's the easiest way to get a clean cut. I hope that made sense.
Cool, Nice tip. thanks for your help.
Any time!
Shooting a Brad nail in to A metal washer with no safety glasses, your chancing fate bro, I do some silly things on the shop to but protect your peepers.
do you remember what the base assembly depth was?
+Cody Langdon 24 inches. But the top is much larger and the base is offset from the wall about 6 inches.
my mistake, i meant height of the base, it looks like it's somewhere around 4 inches?
sandy plywood? Do you mean sanded?
The label at home depot said "Sande plywood. " no clue what that means. But it was bad.
Nice man, need to build one for my channel. One more subscriber
Good job buttttt, was that drywall screws used? They do not have the same strength for this sort of job. Ciao
Drywall screws are plenty strong.
Hey man, how do you like that saw? I'm on the market and I almost bought it, until I realized that the sliders on all the display I could find are stiff as can be. Too difficult to push through. Compared to other options. Are you happy with it and do you think the pros outweigh the cons? The pros, too me as a shopper are the space saving design, a straight down the middle handle to even out pressure, and the biggest thing I've noticed is that the miter detents and stops seem to really hold it snug and solid. Almost as good as the 600$ Dewalt. I've been going towards, Ridgids version (but huge), what you have, or the 10in hitachi (which seems to be under powered, but the smoothest glide and most space saving of all, but apparently is WAY under powered) or this delta Cruze that I could buy at menards right now for under 500$ (but no laser OR shadow lights of any sort) or lastly, this kobalt 12 in was overpriced at 300$ but it just dropped to 200$ and now it's messing me up on my decision. I bought the 12in Chicago electric on Black Friday for 130$, set it up and realized it's not straight, never gonna be straight, inaccurate angles and deflected glideing and it's boxed up and going back. Now the kobalt which I wasn't even considering, now seems like easily twice the saw for 200$. That hitachi is 369$ right now with a stand, except I already bought the MSUV. I need to buy before holiday prices end, and I am at about a 400$ budget. As you can see, I'm driving myself crazy. Wondering your opinion on yours. Thank you sir and great work!
+Steven Ayles ... man, I LOVE this saw!
#1. My last saw took up way too much space with the sliders going out the back. The space savings is a huge thing for me.
2. This thing is powerful! It rips through anything I can throw at it. Nothing bogs it down.
3. The cuts are straight and accurate. I will admit that I had to spend a bunch of time fiddling with the fences to get EXACT 90 degree cuts. But from then after, the cuts are always exact.
4. The detents on the miter are good. I have learned a little trick on it though. When you release the handle in a detent, I have to push it to the right and then lick down the handle to get it exact. There is just a wee bit of slop in the detent but it's no big deal.
5. The sliders might seem a little stiff on the shelf. I can see what you mean. But in the day to day use, I don't notice it. It slides fine and I don't really feel that its binding or anything. I have zero issue with the sliding mechanism. Also, I have found that the sliding mechanism is perfectly true to the blade. I have seen some saws that cut straight at the fence, but as you slide it out, it doesn't track true with the blade. This saw is perfectly straight from one end of the slider to the other.
6. If you do crown moulding, this thing is awesome. It has all the detents for the weird moulding angles and a high fence that holds the moulding perfectly with no jigs or anything.
7. Reliability.... I've had this saw for about a year and a half, maybe two. Not a lick of trouble. It has been very reliable.
8. The blade.... most times you buy any kind of a saw, you just throw away the blade it comes with because its terrible. This blade cuts very smoothly. It rips right through the material but leaves a pretty smooth finish and no tear out. I've had this saw for a year and a half I think, and I still have the original blade on it. It really saved me from going out and buying a $100 blade right away. Unlike my table saw that came with a junk blade.
Now... The three things on this saw that suck...
1. Dust collection.... GARBAGE. completely and totally useless. That's why I'm going to build a cabinet around it and collect dust in the cabinet. This thing makes a huge mess and hooking up a hose does nothing to help.
2. Laser... useless. I'm not much for lasers anyways, so I don't much care about it. The laser has a neat feature that you can adjust it left and right so you can put the laser on either side of the blade. That's kinda cool, except for one thing... The laser is not set in there parallel to the blade. It's kinda cock eyed, so it's inaccurate. As you slide the saw out, the blade gets further away from the laser. Useless.
3. Weight! For me, it doesn't matter how heavy it is. I'm setting it oon this miter station and it will never move again. If you're the type of guy that takes the saw to the job site, it's a monster. I wouldn't want to be moving it around.
Overall, I'm super happy with this saw. I think its probably the best value for the money out there. The only two other saws that I would consider are the Bosch glide because of the space savings, or the Festool Kapex. The problem with both of those saws is they are out of my price range. For the features that you get in this saw, I can't find another saw in the price range that can compete. The Makita was inaccurate. The Dewalt sliders go back into the wall and needs too much space. Same with the Ridgid. Oh, and don't even bother with the 10 inch saws. You'll regret it. They are under powered and you will always find yourself wanting more capacity.
I'll put it this way.... If I woke tomorrow morning and my saw had been stolen, I wouldn't even spend time shopping around. I would drive down to the store and I would buy the exact same saw without hesitation.
I hope this helps you out with your decision. If you buy the saw, let me know what you think!
+Steven Ayles oh... and i also had that Chicago electric saw from harbor freight. It was my first saw. It had good power, I'll give it that. But I agree with what you said. Its not straight. Its great if you're building houses, but not furniture. 45 degree cuts were like 46.5 degrees. Definitely not the saw for woodworkers unless you're just using it to rough cut your lumber.
I am glad you are not filming a Shop Class Safety video.
Safety is at your discretion.
How about some safety techniques.
OUCH! Gonna loose a finger not using a pusher bar...
Uses a respirator ... yet for some reason I can't get how you have all 10 fingers, dude. Push sticks!!!!
I typically do on smaller pieces.
I’ve Gotta ask “Pinkeye”, why do you feel the need to make a comment about the measures this man takes to ensure he’s own safety?
Look at every single woodworking video on RUclips. No matter what, there's always someone that has to make a post about "you're not being safe. "
@termite yeah 1 or 2, but dude you took it to the next level of what not to do and unsafe practices. Read the comments and maybe you’ll realize that you’re not setting a good sample for others specially newby woodworkers. You should take this video down.
Well I hope your screws budget leaves you enough money to eat ! Every 6 to 8 inches for pocket holes !!!! Not every 2 inches ffs !
Personal preference, my guy. No need to fret or curse over a couple extra screws...
Jay Bates, I'll just go watch his channel I don;t need yours
Jay bates is great. I'm sorry you feel that way.
Unreasonably harsh, guy, dang.