Are there any benefits to removing this canister beyond just making room in the engine bay? I've been thinking of removing mine, but the car is finally running consistently and I don't want to start messing around with the vacuum hoses if there's literally no good reason to.
Not really, but there is no benefit in keeping your canister either because after 25+ years it doesn't do it's job anymore and can even get clogged. Several people have reported that this caused idling problems. If I were you I would remove it (weight reduction bro) and if you run into any problems reinstalling is pretty easy!
See?? This is what I needed to hear. The white one doesn't idle very reliably after it's been running and restarted. I guess the next project will be an easy one. Thanks!!
Ik kwam een half bos tegen onder dat ding. Uiteindelijk links en rechts van de motor alles los gehaald zodat ik wat beter kon schoon maken. Vervolgens 2 dagen bezig geweest om het allemaal netjes te krijgen. En bedankt he ! :)
Man..... you kinda saved me. I have a 323F BA, and it has the same annoying anti-emission system. I removed the assembly, but I didn't have any plug, so I decided to plug the solenoid hoses and tie one of them so it would pull a vacuum. I hope now I can pass emissions without cheating it.
@@MiataMods Kinda. It did the job, yeah, I mean, the canister was shot, but my problem is actually not having an EGR. I will swap the engine anyway this month, but what you said in the video, it worked kinda well, not enough (because of the EGR and many vacuum problems), but to reduce the emisions, so with a healthy engine and a good EGR, your trick might've worked for me, 100% sure.
Tbh, besides the other problems, I was first thinking of re-activating the carbon by burning it, but the foam in it was literally falling apart. I've checked for that kind of special foam, and it's: 1) expensive 2) even more expensive to even ship it considering they make it mostly in the US, and I live in Spain.
After watching this video I decided to give this a go on my 2002 Protege. The system seems similar enough. I am having to do this as Mazda discontinued the canister for my car and no one has one. It has failed and will not allow the gas tank to be filled at a reasonable pace. I also keep getting the check engine light every 50 or so miles due to a leak in the evap system. So far so good after bypassing it and plugging the line to the crank case. Thanks for the information.
Good job on these videos, they are all really well put together. Very informative and thorough. As an auto tech by trade, I didn't need to watch the video but I just couldn't stop watching. Thanks for putting them together. Take care, Zoom-Zoom!
Damn dude, you did an engine swap? You got some skills! Glad I could pass on the knowledge, even though you clearly have a higher skill level compared to me, that's for sure haha ☺️
Great video! Tho I would mention if your ever going to lube up rubber hoses to make sliding them on easier(which works great!) its best to use a silicon spray lube and not normal WD-40 as it can cause the rubber to wear out much quicker by eating it up and drying it out.
Thanks for sharing! I just did this to my 94 model. It has 176k miles and was having a couple of issues. One was a problem when starting a warmed up engine, it would stumble a little and eventually clear out in a few seconds. The other was an old gas smell when parked or even idling. The person I bought it from didn't drive it much and it must have had old gas. Once I got it 6 months ago I made sure to drive it enough to keep fresh gas going through it. Hopefully the procedure you described will fix both my issues!
@@MiataMods 99% sure it's fixed, I haven't had the hot start issues. I did have an old gas smell, so I'm going to see if the injector o rings are leaking.
Thanks for another great vid. I took your instructions to the car and removed mine within a short 10 mins. I particularly like how much room this creates.
Removing the solenoid will cause a check engine like on OBD II models, or at least it did on my 97. The solution is the just leave the solenoid in, and loop it to itself.
Reminder to California residents. Evap canisters are required for inspection.(I’m getting a smog and found out the hard way after following this tutorial a year ago).
Thanks Derek! I stopped using the memes because I wanted to 'mature' my video making skills but it's still funny to see my old videos filled with memes haha!
@@MiataMods I took off the hole evap under the trunk off and connect a ruber from the tank to the line that goes to purge valve .. if it’s stuck opens and connects the hose to the intek manifold will it blow the engine or something plz help
Thanks dude, did this yesterday and you vid' was really really useful. Would like to add that you can also remove the bracket that the solenoid is mounted on, by removing the 2 bolts that hold it in place, and then replacing the bolt that holds the fuse box in place.
Hi. Thanks for making this video. After watching this I decided to remove the one on my NB. It is a similar process and your walk through helped make thjngs easy. Much appreciated. Good job. 👍👍
I'm currently having a vacuum leak as well, getting about 7 inches.. i might try this out even tho i put new hoses from the canister all around to the purge control valve too
Did this to my NB as well. I also had a vacuum line coming from the fuel pressure regulator, which I connected directly to my throttle body (instead of through the solonoid).
Yep! In my case I actually had to find a vacuum port for my megasquirt ECU :) Along with removing the MAF and air piping my engine bay is pretty clean now, haha
Hey man, I don't know if you're still reading comments, but did you ever check your diagnostics? I recently did that out of curiosity, long after I followed the instructions in this video, and now I'm getting the error code 26 "Solenoid valve (Evaporative canister purge)". Do you get that code, too?
Ok so, before I did this job, I had a CEL code 26, for faulty purge solenoid. I followed this guide almost to a T, including removing the solenoid. I still have this code 26, even after disconnecting the battery for some time to clear codes. I believe the code could also be a bad gas cap? So maybe I'll get another cap and see if that helps. Do you have any insight, Miata Mods?
Another high quality video. Thanks man. My Miata turns 20 this year, and I often thought that whatever charcoal element was originally in there, must be gone by now. Any way to open the canister up to see what the inside looks like? Is it serviceable, or is it completely sealed? By the way, the video looks great...are you shooting in 4K 60fps or what? lol
From what I've read the canister is still full of charcoal but it doesn't absorb the fumes anymore. It's completely sealed and if you want to service it you need to buy a new canister. If you want to take a look inside you can use an angle grinder to cut the top of the canister. Be carefull with that tho.. there is a video on RUclips where they do this so you don't have to 😛
Ow and I'm not shooting 4K although the camera is capable of that but I do shoot 1080p 60fps and the 60fps makes the video look a lot smoother! Thanks for the compliment tho! 👍
You can certainly FAIL an emissions test in the USA. Many states have whats called a "Visual" i.e. does the car have ALL the OEM equipment. If you fail this they will not even do the tailpipe test. If your lucky enough to live where there is no emissions, like me, then no problem, but please save the can for the next owner.
I agree...in California specially, they will do a visual check and you can fail based on that...I had this one shop fail my 90 Miata because I had the wrong BRAND of muffler. He didn't even start the actual test - just on visual. Mind you this car had passed with this muffler for several years, but he said they changed the laws and it was the reason mine was no longer legal. Luckily it was a "test only" shop so it was not like he was trying to make money off me and he did offer one free retest. He also looked at my charcoal canister and he said it probably needed to be replaced or the hoses replaced in case of vacuum leak but he would not failed me based on the current look of it. I decided to replace it along with a legal muffler because I didn't want to fail again. The canister was a dealer item only so it was not cheap. The hoses turned out to still be ok and when he looked at it, he said it looked ok and "passed it". The rest of the car test were also okay.
This is the reason the EPA needs to be shutdown. Inspection for emissions is total bullshit. Brand has shit to do with function. Compliance is a communist concept!
@@fabioqa Sounds like your shop had no idea what they were doing. You can have whatever brand muffler you want. If you change your cat converter then it has to have a CARB approval stamp
I have 98 NB 1.8 liter MX-5, I believe the removal is the same as NA. But I wonder if any check engine light will come on if I'll do it exactly as you done it?
Yeah it's roughly the same. If you get a check engine light you can reconnect the solenoid and use one line to make a loop between the two connectors of the solenoid, that should clear the check engine light. After that you can move the solenoid out of the way.
super handige video, mijn mazda ruikt aardig naar benzine maar hij is dus al geloopt alleen heeft de vorige eigenaar niet het filter weg gehaald en de lucht omgeleid ....
Good video. Wasn't planning on doing this today but why not? Btw I like your taste in music. You should check out Kondor. Same style and was literally playing him when I stumbled across your videos haha
So where are we now sending the fuel vapour? Because that shit is flammable... Just wondering where the new pipe leads to Edit: Can you blank the vapour release pipe or is it required?
Well it's vented to the same place the canister vents to; the front wheel well on the passenger side. I get your point but it vents a very little amount of vapor so it's not a fire hazard. Do you mean block the pipe? Don't do that; your gas tank needs to vent the excess vapors!
If you have a NA you will not have any problems, no check engine light whatsoever. The NB is a different story, but if you do it the right way it is also possible to do this job on an NB!
At 3:45 There is a red circle around the solenoid. For the NB that solenoid needs to stay there, with the connector still connected to the solenoid. You then cap off any open ports with a piece of rubber or tape. The final step is to secure the solenoid to the wiring harness so it looks clean. Good luck!
The lines that come from under the car needs to be linked, the one that runs to your engine block needs to be blocked off and the two from the sensor needs to be connected to each other
Hey hopefully u can reply but , i recently bought an NA & i did the whole diagnostic thing and the Solenoid valve (Evaporative canister purge) code number 26 came on , & i don’t have one I️ guess the recent owner removed I️t or sum , but i read ur comments u said I️t shouldn’t cause the cel to come on , is I️t possible the did I️t wrong ? And that’s why the cel is on
I still don't see the point of removing the EVAP canister. I have had 2 Miata's one '96 for 13 years and a '99 from 2013 to now and never heard of removing the EVAP canister.
Well that's easy, a cleaner engine bay. Also there is no benefit in keeping your canister either because after 25+ years it doesn't do it's job anymore and can even get clogged. Several people have reported that this caused idling problems.
I thought part of those gases get recirculated into the engine via the intake? Or is that not the case here? (Had that on a mid 80’s dual sport motorcycle)
I did this to my mustang today and everyone told me to not to do it because it will cause my engine to vapor lock but the vent line going to my canister has cracks and air leaks and my car has a vacuum leak because of this so I capped off the canister at the intake and it seemed to fix the problem
@@A-SM1TH smith save me what you did I looped the purge and disconnect the hose in tank and switch it with rubber hose and she seems like holding pressure in the tank
Quick question - hope you can respond. I've got a 24 year old MX5 NA, and I want to do this just so I can clear up the engine bay. Will this decrease fuel efficiency? Is it bad for the environment? Will it make my car stink of petrol?
In correct response. Yes it is bad for the environment that’s why cars come with them. It could possibly decrease fuel efficiency although your stock canister is probably not doing to much for fuel economy anymore. And yes of course what everyone wants to know... yes your car will most definitely stink when you remove this. It may already stink if your canister has failed. This Miata mods guy also said that “you will pass emissions test everywhere” false this guy must not live in the United States and must have no clue about California air resource board Aka carb compliance’s
Ow please, I removed it and a lot of my friends did that as well and nobody has any ‘stink’ issues. Do you even own a Miata? Show me an example of somebody failing a emissions test in Cali because they only removed the canister..
will this cause a check engine light to turn on? if you already have a check engine light on due to the fule evap canister or solenoid, will this turn the check engine light off?
The issue I have is that I have a smell of gas when under load in high gears sustained for a long time. I have never been able to figure out what it is (this is on my '99) I thought this video might be related to that.
Is it a NA or a NB? I would suggest following my video and remove the canister. By rerouting the lines the fumes will end up in the wheel well and not the engine bay. Maybe that will help!
The little valve at the fender you removed is part of the system for reliable warm starts, could cause issues trying to keep it idling on a warm start :)
You mean the canister solenoid? I highly doubt it as it's only function is to let fuel vapors enter the intake of the engine and they do that to vent the canister.. it has nothing to do with the idle of the engine. But hey, maybe I'm wrong so where did you get that info? Do you have website link? Thanks in advance 👍
Awesome straightforward video! I just did this on my '97 and the thing feels like it's running smoother than ever! I just have one question: I ended up getting engine code P0443 - EVAP canister purge valve circuit malfunction. I cleared the code x3 but it keeps coming back. Any idea what could be going wrong??
That seems to have fixed the issue! I just put the solenoid back in place and used a spare hose to loop it back into itself... Kinda unfortunate that now it's sitting in there doing nothing, but at least my trouble codes are clear again. I'll try later this week to get some extra plugs to put on the ends of the solenoid valve to clean up the look. Thanks!
Yeah I figured this would help because NB drivers have the same problem. What I would do is try to hide it somewhere underneath the wiring harness. I'm happy to hear it fixed your problem!
It could be, it didn't with my car but other people reported some problems. If so, reconnect the solanoid and loop a line between the two ports on the solanoid.
Correct me if im wrong but removing this would actually give you a small gain in HP due to it being one less place where air can slighly suffocate your engine? Im in now way saying im right im just asking?
I did this and my engine light came on😒, but my solenoid is actually broken too lol. Is there a way to get the engine code to go away without buying a new solenoid?
@@MiataMods went well not sure what improvement it’s made to the car. At least it creates space to reroute my K&N cone filter from the hot to the cold side
When I did this, I got a evap purge control valve cel. Can I pass inspection with the cel, or can I pass if I clear the code, or is there a way to fix this?
Unfortunately no, but I will be at JapFest on circuit Assen! I will also be hosting my own meeting ☺️ you will receive an email about that in the near future!
Aw, okay. I'll sure try to visit your meeting then! Maybe I'll go to JapFest, too, it's closer for me than Sevenum. But I'm mostly interested in meeting other Miata owners. Btw, Mia is leaking green fluid atm, she really needs to visit a mechanic.
I will be with at least 60 other Miata's at JapFest so enough Miata drivers you can meet 😉 O no dude! Is your radiator or cooling hose broken? Good luck with that!
Bij 3:45 is een sensor omcirkelt. Deze sensor haal ik weg maar bij een NB moet je deze laten zitten. De connector laat je er ook aan vast zitten, maar de twee leidingen die er naartoe lopen moet je afdoppen. Vervolgens kan je de sensor wel loshalen en ergens verstoppen onder de kabelboom zodat het er netjes uit ziet. Succes!
😭.. miata mods!!!! God damn it!!! and got nothing to do my next off day neither!!! I told you you got me doin shit I'm not even thinking about!!! Shit! 😁😁😁👍
Your bottom line? You mean the rubber hose that's runs to your gas tank or the one that runs to your wheel well? No problem for both of the hoses because they are not essential
@@MiataMods yeah found out it's just to wheel well. My cars turbo and was giving me issues but that's was just in correct vacuum line routing. Had to go back and look at my work
@@MiataMods Yeah like I said just re did some vacuum lines. Granted the cars kinda sloppy from the previous owner so im kinda just doing threw and fixing little bit by bit. Got my catch can on the way, gonna re clocl the waste gate accurator so its better lined. Re locate the cruise control. Get a radiator air dam to cover the hole area up. Shes got aways to go yet
@@MiataMods hahaha LOL, yeah my miata is running stupid rich. replaced fuel filter, pump, regulator, injectors, plugged up vacume lines, redid timing, spark plugs, and now I'm about to the my coils. probably gonna hot smog it tbh
@@MiataMods I can only rev up to like 4k. once it goes up to 4k rpm, it just sputters out and drops down in rpm while back firing and shooting black puffs out the exhaust. took out the cat and theres a lotta black soot. idk, what do you think?
Turns out it was completely unrelated. My clutch started slipping. Now it’s on jack stands waiting for somebody to remove my rusty PPF bolts so I can drop the transmission. 😂🦆💩
Get used to using a 10mm on the engine bay. Nearly every nut and bolt inside and out is 10mm on a miata haha. You need to get used to the expression "while you're in there" While you're in there you should clean the debris and junk out of your engine bay. Give her a good bath.
If you care about the aesthetics of your engine bay, it's not useless at all because it gives a much cleaner look. The added bonus is that you have a nice place to install a catch can.
Are there any benefits to removing this canister beyond just making room in the engine bay? I've been thinking of removing mine, but the car is finally running consistently and I don't want to start messing around with the vacuum hoses if there's literally no good reason to.
Not really, but there is no benefit in keeping your canister either because after 25+ years it doesn't do it's job anymore and can even get clogged. Several people have reported that this caused idling problems. If I were you I would remove it (weight reduction bro) and if you run into any problems reinstalling is pretty easy!
See?? This is what I needed to hear. The white one doesn't idle very reliably after it's been running and restarted. I guess the next project will be an easy one. Thanks!!
Good luck and I hope it helps!
I really like how two Miata-youtubers help eachother out! Subbing to you both!
I actually did mine too recently, but I’m having an idle problem where it jumps up and down, what do you believe is the problem?
I never comment on videos, but im really thankful for such a well made informative video, its really hard to find this quality vids on youtube!
Thanks man, that really means a lot!
Ik kwam een half bos tegen onder dat ding. Uiteindelijk links en rechts van de motor alles los gehaald zodat ik wat beter kon schoon maken. Vervolgens 2 dagen bezig geweest om het allemaal netjes te krijgen. En bedankt he ! :)
Geen dank!
Man..... you kinda saved me. I have a 323F BA, and it has the same annoying anti-emission system. I removed the assembly, but I didn't have any plug, so I decided to plug the solenoid hoses and tie one of them so it would pull a vacuum. I hope now I can pass emissions without cheating it.
Did it work?
@@MiataMods Kinda. It did the job, yeah, I mean, the canister was shot, but my problem is actually not having an EGR. I will swap the engine anyway this month, but what you said in the video, it worked kinda well, not enough (because of the EGR and many vacuum problems), but to reduce the emisions, so with a healthy engine and a good EGR, your trick might've worked for me, 100% sure.
Tbh, besides the other problems, I was first thinking of re-activating the carbon by burning it, but the foam in it was literally falling apart. I've checked for that kind of special foam, and it's: 1) expensive 2) even more expensive to even ship it considering they make it mostly in the US, and I live in Spain.
it worked out on all of MY TRUCKS. runs much better. thank, you for you're helpful video.
Ah nice! Great to hear!
Excellent, I did the opposite as I am restoring mine and didn't know where the downpipe exited, now I know, thanks.
No problem. I hope you bought a new unit tho?
After watching this video I decided to give this a go on my 2002 Protege. The system seems similar enough. I am having to do this as Mazda discontinued the canister for my car and no one has one. It has failed and will not allow the gas tank to be filled at a reasonable pace. I also keep getting the check engine light every 50 or so miles due to a leak in the evap system. So far so good after bypassing it and plugging the line to the crank case. Thanks for the information.
No problem, glad my video was helpful 💪
Good job on these videos, they are all really well put together. Very informative and thorough. As an auto tech by trade, I didn't need to watch the video but I just couldn't stop watching. Thanks for putting them together. Take care, Zoom-Zoom!
Thanks man, that really means a lot! I put a lot of effort in making my videos so it's great to hear that people like them! 👍
I just did a 1.8 swap and considered removing the canister. I didn't even think about looping the line together. Learn something new every day.
Damn dude, you did an engine swap? You got some skills! Glad I could pass on the knowledge, even though you clearly have a higher skill level compared to me, that's for sure haha ☺️
Just a 1.8 from a 97 into my 93. Used the Flyin' Miata swap kit. Love Flyin' Miata stuff!
Great video! Tho I would mention if your ever going to lube up rubber hoses to make sliding them on easier(which works great!) its best to use a silicon spray lube and not normal WD-40 as it can cause the rubber to wear out much quicker by eating it up and drying it out.
I did not know that, thank you for that piece of information!
I am also using silicon spray fo a job. I spray not into a tubing, but on pipe, result is the same but tubing is clean. Great vids, subscribed! :)
Nope WD40 is safe on rubber
Thanks for sharing! I just did this to my 94 model. It has 176k miles and was having a couple of issues. One was a problem when starting a warmed up engine, it would stumble a little and eventually clear out in a few seconds. The other was an old gas smell when parked or even idling. The person I bought it from didn't drive it much and it must have had old gas. Once I got it 6 months ago I made sure to drive it enough to keep fresh gas going through it. Hopefully the procedure you described will fix both my issues!
Hey Jason, did it help?
@@MiataMods 99% sure it's fixed, I haven't had the hot start issues. I did have an old gas smell, so I'm going to see if the injector o rings are leaking.
Alright good luck 👍
Ik heb geen eens een MX5, maar ik kijk toch voor de gezelligheid en de humor haha. Nette video weer
Haha thanks man, dat is echt leuk om te horen! ☺️
Thanks for another great vid. I took your instructions to the car and removed mine within a short 10 mins. I particularly like how much room this creates.
Good to hear man! 👍
Do you notice any fuel smell getting into the cabin? Getting mixed responses when I look this up.
Removing the solenoid will cause a check engine like on OBD II models, or at least it did on my 97. The solution is the just leave the solenoid in, and loop it to itself.
That is correct 👍
or add a resistor of the same value to that of the solenoid?
Yes but that requires some electronic skills but that would indeed be a better solution
Assuming this doesnt affect NA6?
You assumed correctly Ben
Someone had covered mine with a tin can cut to shape. Ugliest thing in the engine bay until I removed it lmao. Thank you
Good job!
I feel like oil filter changes just got a lot easier
Yeah they do!
Reminder to California residents. Evap canisters are required for inspection.(I’m getting a smog and found out the hard way after following this tutorial a year ago).
Really? Damn that sucks... good luck my CA viewers!
Great video as always! Did this yesterday and it really looks much better in my enginebay right now. Thanks for this!
No problem! Thank you for your order!
Thanks homie. Easy to follow. Chill music. Bro kept them trolls going.
Thanks Derek! I stopped using the memes because I wanted to 'mature' my video making skills but it's still funny to see my old videos filled with memes haha!
Perfect little project for a beautiful California Sunday! 👌
Exactly! Good luck, should be an easy job! 👍
and a South Carolina Sunday on the old Z32. 😎
How do you rid of the CEL after removing it?
I did not have that problem but if you do, just connect the solenoid and loop the tubes together
@@MiataMods will the loop work even if the selenoid is faulty ?
Not sure, but there is only one way to find out 😉
@@MiataMods I took off the hole evap under the trunk off and connect a ruber from the tank to the line that goes to purge valve .. if it’s stuck opens and connects the hose to the intek manifold will it blow the engine or something plz help
Thanks dude, did this yesterday and you vid' was really really useful.
Would like to add that you can also remove the bracket that the solenoid is mounted on, by removing the 2 bolts that hold it in place, and then replacing the bolt that holds the fuse box in place.
did you get a check engine from that?
Thanks for showing where to get the free extra plugs from.
No prob man, I'm always on the hunt for free stuff
What do you do about the check engine light? Thanks in advance.
Just wanted to say thank you so much for making this video, this helped a lot!
No problem Nick!
Hi. Thanks for making this video. After watching this I decided to remove the one on my NB. It is a similar process and your walk through helped make thjngs easy. Much appreciated. Good job. 👍👍
Glad my video was helpful!
Excellent video, I'll be doing this when I get home tonight!
Cool! Was it a success?
i have always wondered what that canister do
I'm currently having a vacuum leak as well, getting about 7 inches.. i might try this out even tho i put new hoses from the canister all around to the purge control valve too
7 inches of what?
@@MiataMods You know what ;)
What shall I put into my search bar to find those plugs you found on your lights, my eunos doesn't have them
AutoZone has a kit with various sizes.
Did this to my NB as well. I also had a vacuum line coming from the fuel pressure regulator, which I connected directly to my throttle body (instead of through the solonoid).
Cleans up the engine bay real nice right?
Yep! In my case I actually had to find a vacuum port for my megasquirt ECU :) Along with removing the MAF and air piping my engine bay is pretty clean now, haha
Haha so a win-win situation!
Hey man, I don't know if you're still reading comments, but did you ever check your diagnostics? I recently did that out of curiosity, long after I followed the instructions in this video, and now I'm getting the error code 26 "Solenoid valve (Evaporative canister purge)". Do you get that code, too?
You need to connect the Solenoid and loop a hose to fix it.
I did not check for codes but if you want to fix that you can do what BlackSkimmer suggested
Ok so, before I did this job, I had a CEL code 26, for faulty purge solenoid. I followed this guide almost to a T, including removing the solenoid. I still have this code 26, even after disconnecting the battery for some time to clear codes. I believe the code could also be a bad gas cap? So maybe I'll get another cap and see if that helps. Do you have any insight, Miata Mods?
Hey Skyler, no I’m sorry, I don’t have any experience with that code. Good luck 👍
Another high quality video. Thanks man. My Miata turns 20 this year, and I often thought that whatever charcoal element was originally in there, must be gone by now. Any way to open the canister up to see what the inside looks like? Is it serviceable, or is it completely sealed? By the way, the video looks great...are you shooting in 4K 60fps or what? lol
From what I've read the canister is still full of charcoal but it doesn't absorb the fumes anymore. It's completely sealed and if you want to service it you need to buy a new canister. If you want to take a look inside you can use an angle grinder to cut the top of the canister. Be carefull with that tho.. there is a video on RUclips where they do this so you don't have to 😛
Ow and I'm not shooting 4K although the camera is capable of that but I do shoot 1080p 60fps and the 60fps makes the video look a lot smoother! Thanks for the compliment tho! 👍
Good job. But why did Mazda put the canister there in the first place? If the emissions arent that different?
To help with emissions, but after 25+ years it doesn’t do anything anymore
That plug you remove from back lights is the same as famous cursed water plug?
Haha no, that's a bit bigger
You can certainly FAIL an emissions test in the USA. Many states have whats called a "Visual" i.e. does the car have ALL the OEM equipment. If you fail this they will not even do the tailpipe test. If your lucky enough to live where there is no emissions, like me, then no problem, but please save the can for the next owner.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts on this topic. I think that's a good piece of advice; save you canister so you can place it back when needed.
I agree...in California specially, they will do a visual check and you can fail based on that...I had this one shop fail my 90 Miata because I had the wrong BRAND of muffler. He didn't even start the actual test - just on visual. Mind you this car had passed with this muffler for several years, but he said they changed the laws and it was the reason mine was no longer legal. Luckily it was a "test only" shop so it was not like he was trying to make money off me and he did offer one free retest. He also looked at my charcoal canister and he said it probably needed to be replaced or the hoses replaced in case of vacuum leak but he would not failed me based on the current look of it. I decided to replace it along with a legal muffler because I didn't want to fail again. The canister was a dealer item only so it was not cheap. The hoses turned out to still be ok and when he looked at it, he said it looked ok and "passed it". The rest of the car test were also okay.
This is the reason the EPA needs to be shutdown. Inspection for emissions is total bullshit. Brand has shit to do with function. Compliance is a communist concept!
@@fabioqa Sounds like your shop had no idea what they were doing. You can have whatever brand muffler you want.
If you change your cat converter then it has to have a CARB approval stamp
Edward Jones yup. Careful California peeps. Don’t do this...
I have 98 NB 1.8 liter MX-5, I believe the removal is the same as NA. But I wonder if any check engine light will come on if I'll do it exactly as you done it?
Yeah it's roughly the same. If you get a check engine light you can reconnect the solenoid and use one line to make a loop between the two connectors of the solenoid, that should clear the check engine light. After that you can move the solenoid out of the way.
I'm doing the same for a Toyota Pickup now. So where does your fuel tank vent to now? Into the air intake? Or just into the open air?
Into the open air below the wheel well
super handige video, mijn mazda ruikt aardig naar benzine maar hij is dus al geloopt alleen heeft de vorige eigenaar niet het filter weg gehaald en de lucht omgeleid ....
Wat een pannenkoek! Gelukkig is het makkelijk te verhelpen 😉
how is the line from the tank not the "inlet" on the cannister? where do the vapors come out by doing this?
It IS the inlet on the canister. The port on top of the canister is the inlet and that line runs to your fuel tank.
so, where do the vapors actually come out by doing this?
One of the wheel wells
Would you make a video on Passenger Airbag Module replacement
Sorry but mine does not have a Passenger airbag. It doesn’t have any airbags 😂
what is the size of those plug ? 6mm or 8mm ?
I think it's 5mm but I'm not sure. If you want to be sure, messure the two ports on your throttle body
Me driving my miata: *farts super long* *grins* "weight reduction mods boiii"
I should make a how to video on that!
After removing the canister and solenoid I bet that Miata flies! With more torque, horsepower and better gas mileage it's a no-brainer!
Hah u so funny omg soooo funny
Can I ask you if you're using a specific set of socket wrench?
I don't know what I need...and only for the car!
Just a cheap set.. you have to start somewhere and my budget was limited so.. and it works fine
Ok thanks :D
Metric - 8, 10 and 12mm are a good start.
I, also removed both smog pumps. no extra belts to turn.
What's a smog pump?
what are those plugs called that you find on the taillights? mine doesnt have them:(
Good question.. miata rear light rubber caps?
Good video. Wasn't planning on doing this today but why not? Btw I like your taste in music. You should check out Kondor. Same style and was literally playing him when I stumbled across your videos haha
Thanks for the tip Dustin!
So where are we now sending the fuel vapour? Because that shit is flammable... Just wondering where the new pipe leads to
Edit: Can you blank the vapour release pipe or is it required?
Well it's vented to the same place the canister vents to; the front wheel well on the passenger side. I get your point but it vents a very little amount of vapor so it's not a fire hazard. Do you mean block the pipe? Don't do that; your gas tank needs to vent the excess vapors!
It doesn’t throw a code after you disconnect the connector?
There have been some problems reported if you do this on a NB, but on a NA you're 100% fine.
Mine sure did
what code did it show
Threw an egr code but only once. Then Went back to normal
Did it mine a few weeks ago it gives the 26 code
Videos are so informative really helpful 👍🏽
Thanks man 🤙
Doesn't this cause a check engine light?
If you have a NA you will not have any problems, no check engine light whatsoever. The NB is a different story, but if you do it the right way it is also possible to do this job on an NB!
MiataMods I need to do this on my nb. The solenoid that you remove is clicking and driving me nuts. Its got to go. How do I prevent a cel?
At 3:45 There is a red circle around the solenoid. For the NB that solenoid needs to stay there, with the connector still connected to the solenoid. You then cap off any open ports with a piece of rubber or tape. The final step is to secure the solenoid to the wiring harness so it looks clean. Good luck!
MiataMods hi my NB has a diffrent looking canister with 3 pipes on the top and none on the bottom, any idea which pipe goes where? Thanx G
The lines that come from under the car needs to be linked, the one that runs to your engine block needs to be blocked off and the two from the sensor needs to be connected to each other
Hey hopefully u can reply but , i recently bought an NA & i did the whole diagnostic thing and the Solenoid valve (Evaporative canister purge) code number 26 came on , & i don’t have one I️ guess the recent owner removed I️t or sum , but i read ur comments u said I️t shouldn’t cause the cel to come on , is I️t possible the did I️t wrong ? And that’s why the cel is on
Hey man, from what year is your NA? Did you check if the previous owner removed it completely? Maybe left the solenoid in the engine bay.
I still don't see the point of removing the EVAP canister. I have had 2 Miata's one '96 for 13 years and a '99 from 2013 to now and never heard of removing the EVAP canister.
Well that's easy, a cleaner engine bay. Also there is no benefit in keeping your canister either because after 25+ years it doesn't do it's job anymore and can even get clogged. Several people have reported that this caused idling problems.
I thought part of those gases get recirculated into the engine via the intake? Or is that not the case here? (Had that on a mid 80’s dual sport motorcycle)
Very good video. Clear precise instructions!
Thanks!
Hey thanks man. Very helpful tutorial. Youve earned a sub!
Thanks for the compliment Jay! 👍
would this cause a CEL on a 1992 1.6?
Nope!
This would be great for relocating for a oil catch can.
Yes that’s a great idea! Perfect place for a catch can!
I did this to my mustang today and everyone told me to not to do it because it will cause my engine to vapor lock but the vent line going to my canister has cracks and air leaks and my car has a vacuum leak because of this so I capped off the canister at the intake and it seemed to fix the problem
Do u think my engine will vapor lock?
@@A-SM1TH smith save me what you did I looped the purge and disconnect the hose in tank and switch it with rubber hose and she seems like holding pressure in the tank
Quick question - hope you can respond. I've got a 24 year old MX5 NA, and I want to do this just so I can clear up the engine bay. Will this decrease fuel efficiency? Is it bad for the environment? Will it make my car stink of petrol?
In short; Definitely not, no and no
MiataMods thank you so much. Great videos btw
No problem! Thanks man!
In correct response. Yes it is bad for the environment that’s why cars come with them. It could possibly decrease fuel efficiency although your stock canister is probably not doing to much for fuel economy anymore. And yes of course what everyone wants to know... yes your car will most definitely stink when you remove this. It may already stink if your canister has failed. This Miata mods guy also said that “you will pass emissions test everywhere” false this guy must not live in the United States and must have no clue about California air resource board Aka carb compliance’s
Ow please, I removed it and a lot of my friends did that as well and nobody has any ‘stink’ issues. Do you even own a Miata? Show me an example of somebody failing a emissions test in Cali because they only removed the canister..
Just to let you know (ego boost), you do an excellent job on your Miata videos.
Haha thanks man!
spot on fella mines coming off tmorrow
Cool man, I hope my video was helpful!
will this cause a check engine light to turn on? if you already have a check engine light on due to the fule evap canister or solenoid, will this turn the check engine light off?
It can, just try it and if causes problems you can reinstall everything within 10 minutes
Just put the ace plug back ?
Ace plug?
The issue I have is that I have a smell of gas when under load in high gears sustained for a long time. I have never been able to figure out what it is (this is on my '99) I thought this video might be related to that.
Is the charcoal canister removed and do you smell gas in- or outside the car?
I can smell it inside the cabin when going 55-66 mph. It happens mostly when I have the throttle down most of the way for long periods of time.
It is not removed.
Is it a NA or a NB? I would suggest following my video and remove the canister. By rerouting the lines the fumes will end up in the wheel well and not the engine bay. Maybe that will help!
Took me 15-20 Minutes, easy job, even without the rubber plugs (i had to loop my hoses).
Yeah that's fine as well 👍
The little valve at the fender you removed is part of the system for reliable warm starts, could cause issues trying to keep it idling on a warm start :)
You mean the canister solenoid? I highly doubt it as it's only function is to let fuel vapors enter the intake of the engine and they do that to vent the canister.. it has nothing to do with the idle of the engine. But hey, maybe I'm wrong so where did you get that info? Do you have website link? Thanks in advance 👍
Oops I had this mixed up the PRC solenoid which is actually on the intake manifold and on only 1.8 cars, my bad!
No problem dude, thanks for the reply!
Great Vid as always 👌🏽
Thanks dude! 👍
Hey buddy, yea doesn't pass here in the state of California us, they are pretty strict
Really? Will they even notice on an old car like these?
@MiataMods yep, but fortunately I moved to a different state and no emissions here so back on it goes 😀
Did you move to CA or move out?
@MiataMods I moved to Tennessee, California has the most strictest emissions in the US.
@MiataMods just rolled over 178k on the odo still getting 30mpg
Awesome straightforward video! I just did this on my '97 and the thing feels like it's running smoother than ever!
I just have one question: I ended up getting engine code P0443 - EVAP canister purge valve circuit malfunction. I cleared the code x3 but it keeps coming back. Any idea what could be going wrong??
Hmm try reconnecting the solenoid and see if that prevents the code. If so, leave it connected and put a short rubber hose on the two hose-endings.
That seems to have fixed the issue! I just put the solenoid back in place and used a spare hose to loop it back into itself... Kinda unfortunate that now it's sitting in there doing nothing, but at least my trouble codes are clear again. I'll try later this week to get some extra plugs to put on the ends of the solenoid valve to clean up the look. Thanks!
Yeah I figured this would help because NB drivers have the same problem. What I would do is try to hide it somewhere underneath the wiring harness. I'm happy to hear it fixed your problem!
Mr Cabot stfu
@Mr Cabot is your life so sad that you feel the need to go around and police random RUclipsrs? My god man.. chill out
Does doing this throw a CEL?
It could be, it didn't with my car but other people reported some problems. If so, reconnect the solanoid and loop a line between the two ports on the solanoid.
Correct me if im wrong but removing this would actually give you a small gain in HP due to it being one less place where air can slighly suffocate your engine? Im in now way saying im right im just asking?
Yes if you would measure it in hundreths
Might be a dumb question but would doing this bring up my check engine light?
It could, but just try it and if it does, reconnect the solanoid
I did this and my engine light came on😒, but my solenoid is actually broken too lol. Is there a way to get the engine code to go away without buying a new solenoid?
Nice will do this today 👍
How did it go?
@@MiataMods went well not sure what improvement it’s made to the car. At least it creates space to reroute my K&N cone filter from the hot to the cold side
Awesome video bro! always wondering what's the little black tank does. keep it up!
Thank you! I will!
So much cleaner now 👍👌
Thanks dude, I think so too!
When I did this, I got a evap purge control valve cel. Can I pass inspection with the cel, or can I pass if I clear the code, or is there a way to fix this?
Year and model?
@@MiataMods I have a 96 na
Was There A Way To Fix This? Having Same Issue.
I would reconnect the solanoid and loop the two lines with a small piece of rubber hose
I’m just gonna put the charcoal canister back in for smog, then take it back off
My NA doesn't have those little rubber stop end things. What are they called so I can buy one? Great videos btw, keep up the good work
Thanks! I'm not sure but if you go to a big hardware store and show them a picture of it I'm sure they can help you out.
Did you ever find out what they're called? Looking to do this in the next few days. :)
Is a strong fuel smell normal after doing this?
No. Did you follow every step?
@@MiataMods Yes, looped the lines and can smell vapors from the passenger side of the car when its running/after its stopped
Dude, are you gonna be at Sevenum this September?
Unfortunately no, but I will be at JapFest on circuit Assen! I will also be hosting my own meeting ☺️ you will receive an email about that in the near future!
Aw, okay. I'll sure try to visit your meeting then! Maybe I'll go to JapFest, too, it's closer for me than Sevenum. But I'm mostly interested in meeting other Miata owners.
Btw, Mia is leaking green fluid atm, she really needs to visit a mechanic.
I will be with at least 60 other Miata's at JapFest so enough Miata drivers you can meet 😉 O no dude! Is your radiator or cooling hose broken? Good luck with that!
Well, the mechanic discovered that the problem is much worse...
What's the problem? 😱
Very useful videos!
Thanks man, that's great to hear!
Awesome video dude! Thanks!
Thanks man!
Topfilmpjes!👍🏻 Gelijk ook ff dat lelijke ding weggehaald! Haha
Dank je Jurn!
Para que sirve lo que has quitado ,que mision tiene?
Queeeee????
On my 97’ this cause a cel
Newer models need the solenoid apparently. Just reconnect the solenoid and loop the input and output with a short piece of hose
We don't even have emissions in Florida.... or inspections... so this is complete pointless to keep
Nice vid man!
Same process on NA6?
This is a NA6 😉
MiataMods I would say on NA8 :D
Yes, same process on a NA8
MiataMods Thanks man! 👍
Hoi Miatamods, krijg je geen check engine light doordat de connector niet meer ingeplugt is?
Ik zie dat je YT naam ‘NB Miata’ is. Op een NB werkt het iets anders.. klopt het dat je een NB hebt?
Ja, ik heb een NB (net gekocht). Welke aanpassing moet ik maken zodat er geen check engine light zal verschijnen?
Bij 3:45 is een sensor omcirkelt. Deze sensor haal ik weg maar bij een NB moet je deze laten zitten. De connector laat je er ook aan vast zitten, maar de twee leidingen die er naartoe lopen moet je afdoppen. Vervolgens kan je de sensor wel loshalen en ergens verstoppen onder de kabelboom zodat het er netjes uit ziet. Succes!
Bedankt voor het snelle antwoord. Nog een klein ding, weet jij toevallig waar je vacuum lines en zulke dopjes kan halen?
Nee helaas, ik ben die nog niet tegengekomen. Misschien bij de lokale bouwmarkt of iets dergelijks..
Looks like a room for cold air intake :) nice job.
Haha thnx dude! I'm working on a DIY Cold Air Intake right now! How-to video will be coming soon 😉
😭.. miata mods!!!! God damn it!!! and got nothing to do my next off day neither!!! I told you you got me doin shit I'm not even thinking about!!! Shit! 😁😁😁👍
Haha it's really easy bro, even you can do this 😉😂
you already know I'm gonna 😂😂😂👍
my bottom line busted off doing this and for the love of god i dont know where this hose runs to fix it
Your bottom line? You mean the rubber hose that's runs to your gas tank or the one that runs to your wheel well? No problem for both of the hoses because they are not essential
@@MiataMods yeah found out it's just to wheel well. My cars turbo and was giving me issues but that's was just in correct vacuum line routing. Had to go back and look at my work
Did you fix the problem?
@@MiataMods Yeah like I said just re did some vacuum lines. Granted the cars kinda sloppy from the previous owner so im kinda just doing threw and fixing little bit by bit. Got my catch can on the way, gonna re clocl the waste gate accurator so its better lined. Re locate the cruise control. Get a radiator air dam to cover the hole area up. Shes got aways to go yet
really noice👌
Thanks dude!
I just bent the little hose from the outlet to the engine one hahaha
Haha yeah that works too 😛
So I followed this video exactly and then drove six miles and now the car wont start :( not sure what I did wrong if I'm honest
not sure it is related, did you get it fixed? what was the issue?
Was it the cause?
I live in california though, and I think they actually check for the EVAP stuff :/
I doubt it. The guy who checks it probably doesn't even know you're missing the canister.
@@MiataMods hahaha LOL, yeah my miata is running stupid rich. replaced fuel filter, pump, regulator, injectors, plugged up vacume lines, redid timing, spark plugs, and now I'm about to the my coils. probably gonna hot smog it tbh
How you know it’s running stupid rich?
@@MiataMods I can only rev up to like 4k. once it goes up to 4k rpm, it just sputters out and drops down in rpm while back firing and shooting black puffs out the exhaust. took out the cat and theres a lotta black soot. idk, what do you think?
@@N-JOEI hmm seems pretty weird to have this problem after all that stuff you replaced.. does it idle okay?
I just did this to my Miata and suddenly I’m getting a horrible rotten egg smell in the cabin. Did this happen to anybody else?
Stop farting in the car
Turns out it was completely unrelated. My clutch started slipping. Now it’s on jack stands waiting for somebody to remove my rusty PPF bolts so I can drop the transmission. 😂🦆💩
Thank you for the video.
P.S. I know what I'm doing tomorrow 😀
Easiest job ever, you are done within 15 minutes! All the tools you need are in the video description!
MiataMods thank you,hope for more videos soon
More how-to video's are on the way!
Get used to using a 10mm on the engine bay. Nearly every nut and bolt inside and out is 10mm on a miata haha.
You need to get used to the expression "while you're in there"
While you're in there you should clean the debris and junk out of your engine bay. Give her a good bath.
good job
Thank you!
A pointless mod really , it was put in for a reason , but good vid for those who want to take it out!
If you care about the aesthetics of your engine bay, it's not useless at all because it gives a much cleaner look. The added bonus is that you have a nice place to install a catch can.
MiataMods when You doing another vid buddy?
Hopefully next week!