My charger stopped working recently, ended up using my lab bench supply to charge my battery.. After looking for a manual and coming across your videos instead, I just cracked it open to see any obvious issues. There definitely was. The 60N06 MOSFET gave up the ghost and all of it's white smoke at some time. The board was definitely darker around it but couldn't find any other issues. I didn't have an exact replacement for it , but I had one with lower gate demands as well as about twice the current capacity, but only rated 55V instead of 60V.. figured since it theoretically only should get to just under 30V on the output shouold be good.. It charged a battery that's on it's last season without any issues. Then I gave it a shot at a battery that's completely shot to shit. I think two of the cells in it are shorted and pretends to be an 8V battery. I let the charger have a shot, then the wife informed me later on about the electronic smell in the garage. It had killed the MOSFET after a few hours and have self heated until it unsoldered itself AND the heatsink and dropped out of the board. Also decided to test the caps that are next to the heat sink...definitely bad placement next to something that gets hot. Ended up testing way out of spec.
If the MosFet undergoes catastrophic failure, it necessitates a thorough evaluation of the components within the gate drive circuit. Has you charger a a cooling fan? Some units I have seen the FAN has been omitted to save cost. Without an adequate cooling mechanism, excessive heat generation that can degrade the MosFet under heavy operational loads. Substituting MosFets requires meticulous scrutiny of their datasheets due to variations in gate capacitance and switching characteristics, which must be directly matched by adjustment of the associated components. Attempting to replace a MosFet with a near-equivalent without proper consideration often results in heightened power dissipation and compromised reliability, manifesting as decreased efficiency. This design lacks inherent reliability, pushing the FET stage perilously close to imminent failure.
The newer units dated 2020-12 on the back of the clamshell have an updated power supply board which is labelled as "V1.6". The component layout from the top side is basically the same except for they placed the 7812 on a heatsink, rotated it which displaced a couple of the capacitors and forced the fan connector and the resistor R34 to exchange places. On the bottom side of the board, things get a bit more interesting... The 6-pin chip in question from the video is labelled "840L 41" on the first line and the second line "035 P". The other components surround the chip hasn't changed.
@@razenby My "Jinfeng Electronics Motherboard First Generation V1.6" (literal translation from the text on the board) has U1 on the bottom of the board labeled "840K35" on the first line and "630 p" on the second the 'p' is a different size font and off to the side.
Sorry I cant find it. I have had a good look on the internet. It is only a 6 pin controller and there are many on the market. You just need to trace the pins out and buy one with the same pin out. It is likely a chines domestic market part copied / equivalent to a western device. Very hard to find. Some values or the peripheral components may need to be adjusted to make it run at the correct switching rate.
Another interesting thing here, yours is 12/24v mine is identical outside but only 12v? and 6a I would be curious to know the difference. I did tempt fate and tried it across 18v (6v X 8, 48v battery bank) and all it did was indicate full battery and the fan ran faster. It's a pity I cant upload pics here for you to see.
Interesting I haven't sen that version. I think it is better to have 12V version as you don't get the mistaken identity on a very low 12V battery. 6A is better for car batteries unless you have a huge one.
@@razenby My batteries are huge, probably 50% bigger than a 110Ah car battery. There are 8 batteries in the car, each one is 6v at 200Ah. If all fails with the charger, then I will drain them and fill with a solution of Epsom salts, pass a low current through them for a couple of days before refilling with new acid and see if that does any good.
I do have intellectual curiosity and an engineer's desire to "fix it not 'frow it" if damaged just as you obviously have but I have to ask, at the price for these new, is beggaring about spending so much time trying to find components and effect a repair a viable proposition? Another new item is easy to locate, is still cheap, seems to have been updated so maybe could be again, and you would even be left with a blown board carrying a variety of original replacement parts. The Chinese marketing philosophy of design it cheap, make a billion, sell them cheap, chuck 'em when they go, does lend itself to our desire to not pay too much for anything nowadays. E-issues apart it does have it's attractions.
Up to your conscience as to whether it is worth it. I would imagine that less fortunate people with some skills and can't afford to run with the the 'Take , make and throw away' regime. Also you should consider the value of learning new skills, Pass in on Boys - Pass it on.
@@razenby "Also you should consider the value of learning new skills", yup, I concede that point absolutely. Self education and learning new skills is something I had not considered. Thanks for the info in the first place. Purely for reference, I have a more modern version of this unit than your original in the other vid. (Case date stamped: 2021-02, Make: E-Fast, Model: ZYX-J40, PCB: JF-12-72W (DC12-24) V1.6, more rounded case style). It too came fitted with a common mode choke L1 and capacitor CY2 but is still missing the varistor VR1 and high voltage cap CY1. The "UK plug" is just a clip on item over the original 2pin, crude but functional. However my mains leads are also wired the wrong way round. (What is it about our mains wiring they can't get?) The PCB layout is markedly different but the guts seem to remain pretty much the same.
Another pin another PWM. OB2532MP not 840K40 840L25, 840L28, 840 have these pin 1 - VDD, 2- SENSE, 3-GATE, 4-GND, 5-empty, 6-FB. Pwm Have not standart pin.
I know they are not the chip at Aliexpress. My point is that the format of the ident is the same. 2 rows of characters in the same font. The P means lead free ROHs. Since the chips in the picture have the same format it is very likely that these are from the same manufacturer. However the ident on the chips in the photo do not match the manufacturers datasheet so either they are a clone or they just used a random photo.
the PWM IC is OB3840MP and Ob2283 is equivalent they are relatively new! Datasheet is here for the OB2283 www.dianyuan.com/upload/community/2016/10/31/1477901030-33181.pdf
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
My charger stopped working recently, ended up using my lab bench supply to charge my battery.. After looking for a manual and coming across your videos instead, I just cracked it open to see any obvious issues. There definitely was. The 60N06 MOSFET gave up the ghost and all of it's white smoke at some time. The board was definitely darker around it but couldn't find any other issues. I didn't have an exact replacement for it , but I had one with lower gate demands as well as about twice the current capacity, but only rated 55V instead of 60V.. figured since it theoretically only should get to just under 30V on the output shouold be good.. It charged a battery that's on it's last season without any issues. Then I gave it a shot at a battery that's completely shot to shit. I think two of the cells in it are shorted and pretends to be an 8V battery. I let the charger have a shot, then the wife informed me later on about the electronic smell in the garage. It had killed the MOSFET after a few hours and have self heated until it unsoldered itself AND the heatsink and dropped out of the board. Also decided to test the caps that are next to the heat sink...definitely bad placement next to something that gets hot. Ended up testing way out of spec.
If the MosFet undergoes catastrophic failure, it necessitates a thorough evaluation of the components within the gate drive circuit. Has you charger a a cooling fan? Some units I have seen the FAN has been omitted to save cost. Without an adequate cooling mechanism, excessive heat generation that can degrade the MosFet under heavy operational loads. Substituting MosFets requires meticulous scrutiny of their datasheets due to variations in gate capacitance and switching characteristics, which must be directly matched by adjustment of the associated components. Attempting to replace a MosFet with a near-equivalent without proper consideration often results in heightened power dissipation and compromised reliability, manifesting as decreased efficiency. This design lacks inherent reliability, pushing the FET stage perilously close to imminent failure.
The newer units dated 2020-12 on the back of the clamshell have an updated power supply board which is labelled as "V1.6". The component layout from the top side is basically the same except for they placed the 7812 on a heatsink, rotated it which displaced a couple of the capacitors and forced the fan connector and the resistor R34 to exchange places.
On the bottom side of the board, things get a bit more interesting... The 6-pin chip in question from the video is labelled "840L 41" on the first line and the second line "035 P". The other components surround the chip hasn't changed.
Thanks for the info. Has anyone seen a truly reliable power supply that uses the 6-pin SOT-23-6 package? I don't recall seeing one.
@@razenby My "Jinfeng Electronics Motherboard First Generation V1.6" (literal translation from the text on the board) has U1 on the bottom of the board labeled "840K35" on the first line and "630 p" on the second the 'p' is a different size font and off to the side.
Hi - Great close-up video - any chance you could let us know what microscope camera you are using? Thanks
Thanks. It is a Scienscope MAK-PK5D-E1Q-AF. I bought it for an SMD assembly line inspection station.
Hello, can you tell me which PWM controller should be?
Sorry I cant find it. I have had a good look on the internet. It is only a 6 pin controller and there are many on the market. You just need to trace the pins out and buy one with the same pin out. It is likely a chines domestic market part copied / equivalent to a western device. Very hard to find. Some values or the peripheral components may need to be adjusted to make it run at the correct switching rate.
Another interesting thing here, yours is 12/24v mine is identical outside but only 12v? and 6a I would be curious to know the difference. I did tempt fate and tried it across 18v (6v X 8, 48v battery bank) and all it did was indicate full battery and the fan ran faster. It's a pity I cant upload pics here for you to see.
Interesting I haven't sen that version. I think it is better to have 12V version as you don't get the mistaken identity on a very low 12V battery. 6A is better for car batteries unless you have a huge one.
@@razenby My batteries are huge, probably 50% bigger than a 110Ah car battery. There are 8 batteries in the car, each one is 6v at 200Ah. If all fails with the charger, then I will drain them and fill with a solution of Epsom salts, pass a low current through them for a couple of days before refilling with new acid and see if that does any good.
@@johnlannigan9831 Are they standard wet cells with filler plug?
@@razenby Yes, Trojan T125 lead acid batteries.
@@johnlannigan9831 Can you see the plates - are they badly sulfated ?
PWM OB3840PM
Vlad Good job,. Thanks for the info.
@@razenby ok
I do have intellectual curiosity and an engineer's desire to "fix it not 'frow it" if damaged just as you obviously have but I have to ask, at the price for these new, is beggaring about spending so much time trying to find components and effect a repair a viable proposition? Another new item is easy to locate, is still cheap, seems to have been updated so maybe could be again, and you would even be left with a blown board carrying a variety of original replacement parts. The Chinese marketing philosophy of design it cheap, make a billion, sell them cheap, chuck 'em when they go, does lend itself to our desire to not pay too much for anything nowadays. E-issues apart it does have it's attractions.
Up to your conscience as to whether it is worth it. I would imagine that less fortunate people with some skills and can't afford to run with the the 'Take , make and throw away' regime. Also you should consider the value of learning new skills, Pass in on Boys - Pass it on.
@@razenby "Also you should consider the value of learning new skills", yup, I concede that point absolutely. Self education and learning new skills is something I had not considered. Thanks for the info in the first place. Purely for reference, I have a more modern version of this unit than your original in the other vid. (Case date stamped: 2021-02, Make: E-Fast, Model: ZYX-J40, PCB: JF-12-72W (DC12-24) V1.6, more rounded case style). It too came fitted with a common mode choke L1 and capacitor CY2 but is still missing the varistor VR1 and high voltage cap CY1. The "UK plug" is just a clip on item over the original 2pin, crude but functional. However my mains leads are also wired the wrong way round. (What is it about our mains wiring they can't get?) The PCB layout is markedly different but the guts seem to remain pretty much the same.
It's OB3840MP pwm controller! 840 is name, K year, numbers - week. Bottom row - lot. learn to google.
Cheers. It wasn't on line 18 months ago,
Another pin another PWM. OB2532MP not 840K40 840L25, 840L28, 840 have these pin 1 - VDD, 2- SENSE, 3-GATE, 4-GND, 5-empty, 6-FB. Pwm Have not standart pin.
I know they are not the chip at Aliexpress. My point is that the format of the ident is the same. 2 rows of characters in the same font. The P means lead free ROHs. Since the chips in the picture have the same format it is very likely that these are from the same manufacturer. However the ident on the chips in the photo do not match the manufacturers datasheet so either they are a clone or they just used a random photo.
OB3840MP
the PWM IC is OB3840MP and Ob2283 is equivalent they are relatively new!
Datasheet is here for the OB2283
www.dianyuan.com/upload/community/2016/10/31/1477901030-33181.pdf
Thanks.