While it's not my favorite aircraft or even my favorite version of it, I do like Spitfires and its WNW lineage is pretty obvious. That and these epic build videos demonstrating the brilliant engineering convinced me to buy one, despite the price. I think it's a great investment.
Hi Steve, absolutely loving this build and all your work. Thanks for taking the time to show us the build and explain everything you do. You don’t need soft music in the background of your videos, you have the sounds of all the birds. Jase 🇬🇧
Good afternoon Steve, The last time we communicated, I was having problems in using liquid glue and asked you for advice. I thank you for the time you took in helping me sort out my problems. I used your suggestions and annualized as to what I was doing wrong. In the mean time, I watched your build on HMS HOOD a second time and then I started to practice on some of my older disasters . Your work on that warship is incredible. Anyway, I was able to come up with and found a number of issues that was causing my problems. I Thank you once again. I know there different ways in stripping old paint from my models of disrepute. I just don’t know the safe ones. How do I strip the paint without sanding? Forever in His service
Looking good. No grizzling about lack of engine or price. Just get on with it and knock it out of the ball park. Few short weeks and its done. Would say keep up the good work but your going to anyway. Deserve more subs you
Hi Steve, great work on this build. Really like the tips regarding the pre shading on the underside. Can’t help thinking a Hurricane in 1/32nd might be next, considering the current build and the box behind you! lol
This is looking quite good. Also…at 20:23, thank you for not cutting out that “mistake!” I’m brand new to using an airbrush and was having this exact issue. Seeing you solve it was very helpful. Very interested to see how adding the decals affects the shading you’ve done. I’ve heard that adding bright colors tends to even out shading that looks more stark at this stage?
Hi steve, been working on the farm, your hand is sporting a few cuts, the kit is looking good pity about the rivets but I think you did a great job reinstating them.
Your preshading worked beautifully, especially on the black. I have been wondering how to pull that scheme off and I think you nailed it. You can even see the different tones you preshaded with. As you said, knowing when to stop is key, but until I saw this I wasn’t sure if it would work with black.
Nice job with Mr surface nice to learn that Thank you Your the best Friday content 👍 If somebody interest Artscale do mask for Kotare very nice brand very fast delivery
Looking good Steve! One question I have is what Mr surfacer did you use to build up the rivets on the underside? 1500,500 or 1200? Thanks again for your attention to detail and providing your viewers with such great instruction!
That looks again superb. I following your work for a while. It's always fun to watch and learn so much from you. Two questions: You did on this model more used and dirty look than on you other aircrafts (e.g. BF109)...is there a reason? Do you know whether the random stencils are still available somewhere? Thank you for letting us share your work and talent.
It's coming along nicely, the pre-shading you did to the underside gives a worn look to it. I'm not sure how far you will go with the paint chipping on the wing root(s) but I have the Squadron Spitfire in action book that shows extensive paint wear on the port wing root by the pilot entry door and lessens slightly towards the front of the wing. Will be interested to see your take on this.
Hi Steve...kit is coming along nicely. I see you added streaking for the ejector ports on the black side. Was there a reason the white side wasn't done?
The join of the supercharger intake looks like it could use some filler to me. Reference photos should show if there was really a join there at all, or was it moulded in one piece, then added to the lower cowling? The effect you achieved with the build up of layers in the paintwork is masterful. Good luck with the camo.
Thanks. I rarely do paint the insides - what I did here was to paint the visible edges of the canopy with the interior green but left the internal frames alone. I prefer to mess around with canopies as little as possible to preserve their clarity and shine: a better trade off imo.
Paul I’m pretty fussy. I blow a cup full of cellulose thinners through most times unless I’m using say a Matt black flowed by a satin or gloss black or very dark grey. I have a different airbrush for metallics so there’s no risk of metallic flakes getting into pure colours. I leave a half cup of cellulose in the brush for next use.
While it's not my favorite aircraft or even my favorite version of it, I do like Spitfires and its WNW lineage is pretty obvious. That and these epic build videos demonstrating the brilliant engineering convinced me to buy one, despite the price. I think it's a great investment.
I’m sure you’ll enjoy it Kevin it’s a wonderful kit.
Hi Steve, absolutely loving this build and all your work. Thanks for taking the time to show us the build and explain everything you do.
You don’t need soft music in the background of your videos, you have the sounds of all the birds.
Jase 🇬🇧
Thanks Jase that’s a nice comment about the birds - more soothing than the loud rock on some modelling videos. 👍
Your in a different league steve....those rivet heads !!!!!!!
👍 Jerry
You have such a steady hand Steve! Lovely work as usual.
Thanks Phil
Lovely jubbley. Thanks again for the videos. Love these WWII Fighter builds of yours.
Thanks Johnboy 👍
Greetings my friend, that is some excellent progress on the Spitfire it is looking fantastic, best regards from Australia 👍👍👍👍
Cheers Les
Loving the build, really great techniques and very well executed - superb. Can't wait for the next episode :)
Thank you Andrew
Absolutely brilliant.
Once again I have learned something new on today's presentation.
Thank you Mr Steve for another lesson learned.
You’re welcome David
Good afternoon Steve,
The last time we communicated, I was having problems in using liquid glue and asked you for advice. I thank you for the time you took in helping me sort out my problems. I used your suggestions and annualized as to what I was doing wrong. In the mean time, I watched your build on HMS HOOD a second time and then I started to practice on some of my older disasters . Your work on that warship is incredible. Anyway, I was able to come up with and found a number of issues that was causing my problems. I Thank you once again. I know there different ways in stripping old paint from my models of disrepute. I just don’t know the safe ones. How do I strip the paint without sanding?
Forever in His service
Alex I use isopropyl alcohol if I need to strip paint
@@TheModelShed thanks
Looking good. No grizzling about lack of engine or price. Just get on with it and knock it out of the ball park. Few short weeks and its done. Would say keep up the good work but your going to anyway. Deserve more subs you
Thanks Geoffrey 👍
Great tutorial Steve.
Thank you 👍
Hi Steve, great work on this build. Really like the tips regarding the pre shading on the underside. Can’t help thinking a Hurricane in 1/32nd might be next, considering the current build and the box behind you! lol
A hurricane would be well in the future - lots more in the queue before.
Can’t wait to see it either. Really enjoy your builds. Some great work and marvellous final results.
I always love it when I learn something, nice work as always, 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Cheers Pete
This is looking quite good. Also…at 20:23, thank you for not cutting out that “mistake!” I’m brand new to using an airbrush and was having this exact issue. Seeing you solve it was very helpful.
Very interested to see how adding the decals affects the shading you’ve done. I’ve heard that adding bright colors tends to even out shading that looks more stark at this stage?
Samuel I can’t see your comment - there’s an intermittent glitch on RUclips for some reason. 🤨
Thanks Mick
Thankyou for the updates, I have the same model that I am starting. So far very nice going together. So I really enjoy the heads up on fit problems.
You’re welcome
Hi steve, been working on the farm, your hand is sporting a few cuts, the kit is looking good pity about the rivets but I think you did a great job reinstating them.
Not the farm John - I replaced a door latch on my car and grazed my hands and arm reaching inside - not a lot of room in there 😬🤕
@@TheModelShed Yes I've been there a few times.
Great work. Eagerly following this build as I just got this kit.
You’ll enjoy it 👍
excellent work on the rivets and the underside camo
Thanks Mick
Your preshading worked beautifully, especially on the black. I have been wondering how to pull that scheme off and I think you nailed it. You can even see the different tones you preshaded with. As you said, knowing when to stop is key, but until I saw this I wasn’t sure if it would work with black.
Thanks Doug it works if you’re careful with the top coat - nice and thinned
Steve, some hard core nuts paint the inside of the canopy frames!
They can carry on with that - even I don’t have the patience for that
Nice job with Mr surface nice to learn that Thank you
Your the best Friday content 👍
If somebody interest Artscale do mask for Kotare very nice brand very fast delivery
Thank you Laurent
Fantastic paint job!!!!
Thanks Paul
You can drop those brass templates (masks) into some Isopropyl Alcohol and they clean up like new!😁
Will do - thanks
Looking good Steve! One question I have is what Mr surfacer did you use to build up the rivets on the underside? 1500,500 or 1200? Thanks again for your attention to detail and providing your viewers with such great instruction!
I used 500 - I used it from the lid where is was thickening a bit but it’s a process of trial and error
That looks again superb. I following your work for a while. It's always fun to watch and learn so much from you. Two questions: You did on this model more used and dirty look than on you other aircrafts (e.g. BF109)...is there a reason? Do you know whether the random stencils are still available somewhere?
Thank you for letting us share your work and talent.
Here Chris www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/trinity-splatter-airbrush-stencils-set-uschi-van-der-rosten
I got the pre-order kit with the resin exhausts. I think I saw somewhere the Kotare ard going to sell them separately at some point.
Yes plus Eduard will go some very soon
It's coming along nicely, the pre-shading you did to the underside gives a worn look to it. I'm not sure how far you will go with the paint chipping on the wing root(s) but I have the Squadron Spitfire in action book that shows extensive paint wear on the port wing root by the pilot entry door and lessens slightly towards the front of the wing. Will be interested to see your take on this.
I’m not going to go too far - I’ll jus t experiment until I’m happy with it.
Hi Steve...kit is coming along nicely. I see you added streaking for the ejector ports on the black side. Was there a reason the white side wasn't done?
The black side is more forgiving Marcel: I’ll do the white side with oils later on
The join of the supercharger intake looks like it could use some filler to me. Reference photos should show if there was really a join there at all, or was it moulded in one piece, then added to the lower cowling? The effect you achieved with the build up of layers in the paintwork is masterful. Good luck with the camo.
There was a very obvious panel join there on the real aircraft.
The front of the intake isn’t glued yet John - I dry fitted it so I could remove it to get the demarcation on the hidden upper face
Hello, thanks for all these amazing movies on the Kotare Spit. Just have started mine.
Short question, why didn't you paint the inside of the canopy?
Thanks. I rarely do paint the insides - what I did here was to paint the visible edges of the canopy with the interior green but left the internal frames alone. I prefer to mess around with canopies as little as possible to preserve their clarity and shine: a better trade off imo.
Why was the underside of those early Spits in 50/50 black and white? Was it for IFF purposes or another reason?
I’m not sure - I’d always assumed it was a means of disorientating an attacker as to the attitude and orientation of the target.
It was for identification purposes for British AA artillery
How meticulous are you about cleaning your airbrush between colours? What do you do if you know you aren’t going to use your airbrush for awhile?
Paul I’m pretty fussy. I blow a cup full of cellulose thinners through most times unless I’m using say a Matt black flowed by a satin or gloss black or very dark grey. I have a different airbrush for metallics so there’s no risk of metallic flakes getting into pure colours. I leave a half cup of cellulose in the brush for next use.
@@TheModelShed thanks, what is a cellulose product…
I think - but not sure that it’s lacquer thinners in the US
@@TheModelShed that makes sense!
ASK do a masking set
👍