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Electronic Throttle Body Testing and Replacement | P0222 P0223 P2135
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- Опубликовано: 13 авг 2024
- How to test and replace and electronic throttle body. Common trouble codes include P0122, P0123, P0222, P0223 and P2135.
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P0122: Throttle Position Sensor A Circuit Low Voltage
P0123: Throttle Position Sensor A Circuit High Voltage
P0222: Throttle Position Sensor B Circuit Low Voltage
P0223: Throttle Position Sensor B HIgh Voltage
P2135: Throttle Position Sensor A/B Voltage Incorrect Correlation
This particular throttle body is a single-barrel side draft type. The lower portion of the throttle valve is heated by engine coolant to prevent icing of the throttle plate. The throttle position sensor a/b and throttle actuator are built in to the throttle body.
Common issues with a failing throttle body include:
- Engine stalls (check throttle body gasket)
- Rough idle
- Poor acceleration
- Engine hesitation
- Engine surging
- Engine does not return to idle (check damage throttle valve)
Note:
Any attempt to repair automotive parts and/or systems carries risk of personal injury. Always adhere and follow safe practices when working on vehicles. Such as, safety glasses, jack stands, no loose clothing, etc. No guarantee or warranty is implied. Use the information in this video at your own risk. Carsntoys is a member of the Amazon Influencer Program.
Publication, reproduction or distribution of this film is strictly prohibited.
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#throttlebody #throttlepositionsensor
Guys.. how come this guy, Mr. CarsNToys does not have 1000,000 followers? Thank you for an amazing video, clear, short, and educational in a language that I can understand and follow. Your advise is priceless at the end of the video with "Relearning" process! Again, THANK YOU!
Maybe because he doesn't respond.
Best video of the MODERN throttle body, and wire testing! I'm going to subscribe CarsNToys channel now, thank you!
I have a JDM 2005 Honda Accord Euro 2.4 and my car threw a check engine light and VSA and triangle (!) symbol and also went into limp mode. I was driving on the highway and instantly panicked as I couldn't accelerate at all and pulled over to turn off the engine. Waited 5 mins and turned the ignition back on and the VSA and triangle (!) symbol disappeared but the check engine light still appeared. Luckily my car was able to drive the way it did before this incident occurred and I managed to reach home (30km highway driving). As soon as I got home I plugged in my OBD2 scanner and the diagnostics read P2135 code and I came across this video. My first suspicion was bad/dirty connectors since this happened the same day I took my family out for a road trip. It made sense that this could be related since I had to drive off road to enter into a campsite for our day hike (and it was extremely dusty too). After a while the check engine light disappeared on its own the very same day as I had been driving it often. I was relieved but when I plugged the scan tool again I saw the code still existed. I waited till the next day and decided to clear the code manually using my OBD2 scanner. Unfortunately, as soon as I stepped on my gas pedal, the same incident occurred but luckily I was just at a parking lot. I turned off engine and back on and it worked just fine again and eventually the engine light disappeared on its own again but still showing the code when I used my scan tool. I decided to buy CRC contact cleaner and disconnected my negative battery and unplugged the connectors to the APP and the TPS and sprayed it many times and used a Q tip as well. I let it air dry for at least 30 mins before reconnecting everything and made sure the electrical connectors were tightly fitted (a decent click sound heard). I test drove it around for 30 mins and then checked my scan tool and the code was gone. So far haven't come across any issues but that was the cheapest fix ever.
Only needed a contact cleaner thankfully and not a replacement of APP or TPS..
Sorry for long message but just thought I could share my experience with p2135 code
Any more issues since then?
Thank you very much sir ❤
Good evening sir hope your day is going well! I like your video content it's very well detailed and explained step by step awesome job!
If you are using a throttle body that doesn’t belong on your car, could you test and find which corresponding wires open the throttle body and make them match up in the harness to make it work? Or is there more to it
There’s more to it. The throttle bodies are designed for specific year, make and models.
Im having issues while shifting my manual transmission my rpm’s drop all the way to 1k. I think its the idle air control valve but I think my car doesn’t have that
Maybe I missed something, but how does this test show if the throttle body is bad?
yehh same...
The change in voltage shows that the potentiometer in the throttle body is working therefore it is sending a signal to the ECU. As far as the motor that controls the butterfly, it is easy to check too. Simply remove the intake hose so that you can actually see it, turn key ignition to the on position, (no need to start the engine) and press the accelerator pedal down or ask someone else to do it while you see, you should see it moving. If it doesn't move there is a problem with it. Also as it moves it should be according to the pedal movement and the electric motor should sound smooth too.
@@carlosestrada298
Thanks for the info I'll give that a try. Should the valve be open all the way when the pedal is down?
@@dhalsim-1 yes the flap or butterfly should be completely open when the pedal is down.
Because when he put his hand in the throttle plate and moved it the meter changes if there is no change then the body is no good
Are these the only codes for throttle body? My cars throwing P1239 for TPS Circuit Range/Performance
I changed out throttle body and gas pedal still getting p0122 and p0222. Starting to assume it’s the wiring but not very good with testing though how would I go about doing that. It has 6 wires 2008 ford Taurus
I replaced my throttle body and gas pedal assembly as well but I noticed that the wiring for the connector was loose so this video helped with confirming that’s probably my issue
Could you do a video on ECM/ECU Replacement on your 2010 Subaru Impreza? You've helped me so much with my Impreza.
Great video and well explained
most fly "drive" by wire throttle bodys have at least 2 TP sensors and the ECM "computer" monitors both plus two more TPs on the gas pedal..if any of those 4 TPs are out of range the ECM will put the car in limp mode "no power" or very limited power. This keeps the throttle body from getting you killed should it malfunction and you can't control the speed of the engine!
When he tested the plug (going to the actuator)in the wire harness it said 11.3 on the multimeter. How much voltage should be going from the wiring harness to the actuator on the side of the throttle body? Mine is reading only 4 volts. Any suggestions??
Dead battery?
@@DavidJackson-zg5my battery is reading over 14 v.
Why turn on AC, is that to cause possible compressor cycling and idle changes?
Just DO what the man says.
The car needs to relearn a proper idle, with the ac on, it helps the computer to look idle a bit higher to be able to take the ac into consideration
Thank you sir well explained.
Can you say how much volt must be on black and red(+). I see you have around 12V. In my case I have 5V.
Did you ever figure out your issue? I don't think this guy that makes the video responds
@@giantkilla_ In my case 5v it's ok
@@user-jx7ve7ju7l I press the Accelerator and nothing happens. So I bought a Accelerator Pedal position sensor and it still did the same thing. So I tested the Throttle Body and everything seems good. Idk what it could be. The plug that goes to my (actuator )Throttle Body is pushing about 4.2 Volts. I'm just lost.
@@giantkilla_ I changed connector to pedal, changed map and unplugged sencor for the cooler. After those manipulation something was work. It's start to work good. But still have liths on dashboard
But is it normal not being able to move that plate with fingers?
Wish these people that made these videos would respond. Doesn't make any sense.
Hmm, I thought you shouldn't push on that butterfly thingy on a electronic throttle body
If it's disconnected, moving the valve (carefully) is fine, you're just moving the same cog wheels as the electric motor. Don't push against resistance though.
I was thinking same out of experience I had to buy a new throttle body because I pushed it open! But I could've gotten throttle body cleaner into electronics too but ya was always told to have someone press the pedal instead. Tps motor I believe is supposed to move the butterfly not the other way around supposedly!? 🤔
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻