Thank you for your video. I have this problem for the first time and I have 170,000 miles on my Hemi Challenger, so your methods will help in changing them out..!
Lots of videos out there but I picked and subscribed to your channel because I like the fact that you wrench, race and fix your own shit. I just got my solenoids from a vendor on Amazon for about $160 for the full set (4) So I'll be working on getting these taken care of on my wife's 2006 Daytona R/T. Your video was pretty straight forward and simple which I liked. Not too many surprises other than the old solenoids being a pain in the butt to remove. But engineers design things the way they do so mechanics and specialists have jobs i suppose. Only the brave few that are willing enough enjoy busting their fingers open and swearing to themselves in their garage.....lol Thank you brother....🤙
Yes I changed all of them, with these i notice that when one fail the others will fail soon after. So it's better to change them all after the 1st one goes.
I've got a P3449. My 2007 Dodge 1500 has a little over 190,000 miles. I'm thinking I might go ahead and replace all 4 solenoids and cross my fingers. I figure even if the problem isn't the solenoid, they probably don't have much life left in them anyways.
@@57LHemi I replaced all 4 solenoids with the upgraded Dorman parts and so far the truck runs great. It kept dying on me when it threw that P3449 code. I also replaced the intake gaskets.
Hey I got code P3400 Cylinder Bank 1 Deactivation. Do I just need to replace the one cylinder solenoid or all of them also do you need to replace the intake manifold when doing this job?
It's better to replace all 4 while your in there. When 1 go the rest will soon follow and no you don't have to replace the intake manifold to do this job
No I didn't replace the harness, I knew my solenoids were bad.... but replacing the harness could fix the problem, labor cost would probably be about the same and the solenoids would be an extra $70, I would just make it a 1 and done because the solenoids will fail sooner or later.
Iv looked on rock auto and can’t find the harness either... has anyone had any luck? I’m on attempt number 2 to fix this problem and starting to think I need to replace the harness
@@michaelhakes5845 try your local pick and pull or a salvage yard to see if you can find one there. I haven't had to replace a harness yet so I'm not sure if they sell them in the parts stores. Good luck
We did replace all MD s's cold. Still come up now we're replacing the wire Harness we did see oil Which we put dye in. Do they supposed to spin in their holes? After you insert them before you lock them down in the with the Bolt it's been a headache
Hello, I have a trouble code P1411, and cylinder 1 has start control performance issues, with the car shaking violently. Is this caused by the trouble code?
Hey I got a p3401 and a P3425, can you help me? Just let me know which one to replace I’m am confused on how the solenoids are numbered with the cylinders.
@@tyronedavis3157 yea the 6.1 have a 90mm tb. I did the relearn thing over and over and it still gave me problems lol. It's a bad ass tb when it's working but when it start tripping it's game over...
@@57LHemi well I did have to end up pulling another solenoid to compare if that hole was normal and to my surprise the other solenoid will had exactly the same hole same position same location. So it's normal. Just replace the solenoids and it's working good
I have an 08 jeep grand Cherokee. I was told I have a misfire in cylinder 6, the harness and plugs 2400. A friend told me to remove the intake and change solenoid, he doubted the harness needs fixed. What do you think?
Ok check to see if any of it broke off and stuck inside the hole. If nothing is in the hole blocking the new one fron going in I would take a block of wood like 6 inches of a 2x4 put it on top of the solenoid and tap it in with a hammer. It will pop in.
I’m having a hard time with these. Leaking oil like crazy! I ready tapped it down with a wood block, however I’m not sure if the MDS head is supposed to turn (while in). Not sure where to go from here. Any help will do!
Phil Johnson yea mines leaking too... has been for weeks but it hasn’t even dropped a quart yet. Iv been told when you hit it with a block you can hear the sound change and it’s seated.... I almost gave 2 shits today and started to pull everything off but.... the night is still young and tomorrow is another day!
michael hakes Man, I’m an expert at taking the intake off at this point! However, mine is leaking pretty bad! I’m wondering if there’s such a thing as tapping it too much. I’m taking a break to regroup and get advice. I know if I take it (4) out, that’s another $250. Geesh!
Phil Johnson did you hear the sound change? I didn’t and at that point I didn’t care... but now yes it’s leaking. I would highly advise on not pulling them out.. that sounds like a expensive mistake. I did run another diagnostic and the problem moved to another cylinder so I’m pretty sure I only have the one leaking... I plan on drinking a lot tonight and round up tools and get ready for tomorrow... the hard part is over buddy it’s the other 100 of little engineering problems... take a break and hit it tomorrow.
Take them off and found solenoid upper and lower screens full of craps sludge when that happens your lifters don't get full oil pressure and the 4 cylinder mode does not work correct and when it passes thru the hole port it will lose power plus you get that loud clicking lifter not extending to the pushrod to the rocker intake for complete combustion cycle Crazy setup down fall to DODGE myself will delete the MDS system if you got the time or delete with a tuner again dodge negligence myself want all 8 eight horses and full mode with non-mds lifters and cam and all ways keep the oil clean or else wear and tear on your cam roller lifters
I hate these things, they never go in all the way and then leak oil after you put it all together. Once they are installed they break coming out and these arent cheap.
5.7L Hemi Is there anyway to tell it’s actually seating? I’m getting a pretty bad leak. Had to take the intake off again just to check it. The mds top is spinning. So I keep tapping it with the hammer hoping it stops spinning.
@@2nvproductions I can tell yopu right now that they will pop down in you will feel it go thunk. and I had to press HARD. One of mine didnt feel like it went in all the way, I guess itll probably leak oil...
@@2nvproductions i wouldnt tap them, they are just made to cheap. All I know is it was a pain in the a$$... just get some leverage and push as hard as you can until that clip you bolt down is flush. I put a skim coat of silicone on my top oring as a lubricant. and I mean a very tiny bit.
Usually I'd agree, but the MOPAR solenoids are made of plastic which is why they fail. They also cost twice as much. Dormans and other auto parts store brands are made of all aluminum
your solenoid installation video was very helpful. your instructions with details was easy to follow.
No problem man
Thank you for your video. I have this problem for the first time and I have 170,000 miles on my Hemi Challenger, so your methods will help in changing them out..!
Yes
Fantastic video! Helped me with my 5.7 on a 2012 Ram 1500. Please keep up with the quality videos.
Thanks man
Lots of videos out there but I picked and subscribed to your channel because I like the fact that you wrench, race and fix your own shit.
I just got my solenoids from a vendor on Amazon for about $160 for the full set (4) So I'll be working on getting these taken care of on my wife's 2006 Daytona R/T.
Your video was pretty straight forward and simple which I liked. Not too many surprises other than the old solenoids being a pain in the butt to remove. But engineers design things the way they do so mechanics and specialists have jobs i suppose. Only the brave few that are willing enough enjoy busting their fingers open and swearing to themselves in their garage.....lol
Thank you brother....🤙
No problem man and it's not that hard, just steps to take that's all
How do I remove them there hard af
Really helped me to understand what's in there. Thanks.
No problem bro glad I could help out
Thanks! I have to do the same job this weekend!! Keep the videos coming
Yep yep
Bolt Torque specs: 11 Nm (97 in.lbs).
Thanks
Thanks a lot. I’m about to go change my solenoids out.
No problem man, just trying to save you guys some buck's
Did you replace all of them and did it fix your problem. Thanks for helping folks
Yes I changed all of them, with these i notice that when one fail the others will fail soon after. So it's better to change them all after the 1st one goes.
Good job. I have to do mine. I've been putting it off.
I've got a P3449. My 2007 Dodge 1500 has a little over 190,000 miles. I'm thinking I might go ahead and replace all 4 solenoids and cross my fingers. I figure even if the problem isn't the solenoid, they probably don't have much life left in them anyways.
It's a very smart thing to do while your there.
@@57LHemi I replaced all 4 solenoids with the upgraded Dorman parts and so far the truck runs great. It kept dying on me when it threw that P3449 code. I also replaced the intake gaskets.
@@AGreedyTree awesome, good fix
Awesome! Thanks
No problem
Will this pull a code p1416 on a 2007 charger RT and thank you for your videos i just subscribed to your Chanel
Thanks man and yes it will
Thanks for the great informative videos
Thanks man I appreciate it
Hey I got code P3400 Cylinder Bank 1 Deactivation. Do I just need to replace the one cylinder solenoid or all of them also do you need to replace the intake manifold when doing this job?
It's better to replace all 4 while your in there. When 1 go the rest will soon follow and no you don't have to replace the intake manifold to do this job
I have a 5.7 police pursuit, will this problem cause a crank no start??
Yes, rough idling also
Thanks for the video it was very helpful
Any time
What codes were you having ? How can I diagnose this issue? I have p0305 and p3449
Please, you changed all 4 solenoids or only one? Thank you!
All 4
Did you replace the Wiring harness?
I had a shop tell me that it may or may not may need to be replaced when replacing the solenoids.
No I didn't replace the harness, I knew my solenoids were bad.... but replacing the harness could fix the problem, labor cost would probably be about the same and the solenoids would be an extra $70, I would just make it a 1 and done because the solenoids will fail sooner or later.
@@57LHemi I'm just having a hard time finding the wiring harness for this. And the shop quoted me the harness being $1100.
@@carolinapatriot7522 that's ridiculously too much. You would be better off getting one from a salvage yard.
Iv looked on rock auto and can’t find the harness either... has anyone had any luck? I’m on attempt number 2 to fix this problem and starting to think I need to replace the harness
@@michaelhakes5845 try your local pick and pull or a salvage yard to see if you can find one there. I haven't had to replace a harness yet so I'm not sure if they sell them in the parts stores. Good luck
We did replace all MD s's cold. Still come up now we're replacing the wire Harness we did see oil Which we put dye in.
Do they supposed to spin in their holes? After you insert them before you lock them down in the with the Bolt it's been a headache
I'm not sure but I think so. The o2 sensors can make them run funny also.
if a solenoid is bad can it keep a lifter from geting the proper oil?
Yes
should I replace all 4 solonoids? Yes... Am I going to? No
Oh yeah replacing all 4 is not required lol it's totally up to you.
Hello! When a solenoid MDS doesn’t work correctly can stop always the fuel injector corresponding ? Thanks
It's possible...
5.7L Hemi Thanks for your help!! 😊
Hello, I have a trouble code P1411, and cylinder 1 has start control performance issues, with the car shaking violently. Is this caused by the trouble code?
Yes you cylinder 1 MDS solenoid is bad
What is the solenoid in the front called the one that is sideways I pulled that one out and need to replace it
Not too sure about that one
Hey I got a p3401 and a P3425, can you help me? Just let me know which one to replace I’m am confused on how the solenoids are numbered with the cylinders.
They will be the front 2
@@57LHemi ok thank you and can you check this comment daily I might have to ask you something again or anyway I can get in contact with you
My 2013 dodge charger rt has deactivated cylinder 7. Should i replace solenoid also??
Yes I would
Have you heard of someone "clipping" solenoid 7 wire to disable the mds?
No I can't say that I have
Hey bro long time...did you change the throttle body back to the original?
Aye what's good bro and yeah I changed it back to the stock throttle body. The bbk gave me a lot of problems.
@@57LHemi interesting... I was thinking about doing a 6.1 intake...I think the throttle is bigger. My boy from Dodge say do a PCM relearn?
@@tyronedavis3157 yea the 6.1 have a 90mm tb. I did the relearn thing over and over and it still gave me problems lol. It's a bad ass tb when it's working but when it start tripping it's game over...
the mds well/holes at the bottom have like a round lid, they seem to have like 1/4 of the circumference missing or chipped? is this normal?
That doesn't sound normal as oil passes through them. They should fit snug to prevent oil leakage
@@57LHemi well I did have to end up pulling another solenoid to compare if that hole was normal and to my surprise the other solenoid will had exactly the same hole same position same location. So it's normal. Just replace the solenoids and it's working good
@eb6522 cool I'm glad it worked out for you.
Have you changed the intake gaskets
No my intake gaskets are like new, just clean the good with brake cleaner and you'll be fine
Is the MDS solenoid the same as an deactivation solenoid?
Yes
I have a 2007 300c hemi 5.7 does mine have 4? I’m getting the same deactivation solenoid messages
Hey does this work for dodge durango 2006 5.7 hemi
Yes
U ever get youts fixed
@@korinatate7986 yes
I know that it’s pricey but changing all 4 at the same time saves future headaches
Definitely
Which one control Cylinder 6
Passenger side rear
a buddy I'm having to do mine ever outher weekend keeps leaking
It's sounds like your MDS gaskets are bad bro. New MDS should come with new gaskets
What numbers are this solenoids
It's a doorman Dorman part and the part # is 916-511
I have a Dodge Charger RT 2006 Hemi I want the man that want to Cylinder 6
Passenger side rear
I have an 08 jeep grand Cherokee. I was told I have a misfire in cylinder 6, the harness and plugs 2400. A friend told me to remove the intake and change solenoid, he doubted the harness needs fixed. What do you think?
Can you tell me which one is number one number two number three number four
Driver side front 1, 2 driver rear. 3 pass front, 4 pass rear
Thanks
which is is bank 1? P3400 on my 300🤦🏽
Driver front is bank 1
Mine ain’t going in all the way... no matter how hard I push... even lubed the o rings...
Ok check to see if any of it broke off and stuck inside the hole. If nothing is in the hole blocking the new one fron going in I would take a block of wood like 6 inches of a 2x4 put it on top of the solenoid and tap it in with a hammer. It will pop in.
I’m having a hard time with these. Leaking oil like crazy! I ready tapped it down with a wood block, however I’m not sure if the MDS head is supposed to turn (while in). Not sure where to go from here. Any help will do!
Phil Johnson yea mines leaking too... has been for weeks but it hasn’t even dropped a quart yet. Iv been told when you hit it with a block you can hear the sound change and it’s seated.... I almost gave 2 shits today and started to pull everything off but.... the night is still young and tomorrow is another day!
michael hakes Man, I’m an expert at taking the intake off at this point! However, mine is leaking pretty bad! I’m wondering if there’s such a thing as tapping it too much. I’m taking a break to regroup and get advice. I know if I take it (4) out, that’s another $250. Geesh!
Phil Johnson did you hear the sound change? I didn’t and at that point I didn’t care... but now yes it’s leaking. I would highly advise on not pulling them out.. that sounds like a expensive mistake. I did run another diagnostic and the problem moved to another cylinder so I’m pretty sure I only have the one leaking... I plan on drinking a lot tonight and round up tools and get ready for tomorrow... the hard part is over buddy it’s the other 100 of little engineering problems... take a break and hit it tomorrow.
Mine is popping up that reactive cylinder 7 ,6,4
That mean it's time to replace them.
Why not just turn them off with a diablo tuner?
That's an option but that would cost you more money than replacing them if you don't have a Diablo
how long did it take to do these
About an hour
Take them off and found solenoid upper and lower screens full of craps sludge when that happens your lifters don't get full oil pressure and the 4 cylinder mode does not work correct and when it passes thru the hole port
it will lose power plus you get that loud clicking lifter not extending to the pushrod to the rocker intake for complete combustion cycle
Crazy setup down fall to DODGE myself will delete the MDS system if you got the time or delete with a tuner
again dodge negligence myself want all 8 eight horses and full mode with non-mds lifters and cam
and all ways keep the oil clean or else wear and tear on your cam roller lifters
That's a fact
I have a p1416 code how do I fix it
Is that a o2 sensor code?
I hate these things, they never go in all the way and then leak oil after you put it all together. Once they are installed they break coming out and these arent cheap.
Exactly man, I feel your pain.
5.7L Hemi Is there anyway to tell it’s actually seating? I’m getting a pretty bad leak. Had to take the intake off again just to check it. The mds top is spinning. So I keep tapping it with the hammer hoping it stops spinning.
@@2nvproductions I can tell yopu right now that they will pop down in you will feel it go thunk. and I had to press HARD. One of mine didnt feel like it went in all the way, I guess itll probably leak oil...
Rip Saw I’ll keep tapping, but is there such a thing as it going too far down?
@@2nvproductions i wouldnt tap them, they are just made to cheap. All I know is it was a pain in the a$$... just get some leverage and push as hard as you can until that clip you bolt down is flush. I put a skim coat of silicone on my top oring as a lubricant. and I mean a very tiny bit.
When it comes to electronics, stick with OEM only.
Usually I'd agree, but the MOPAR solenoids are made of plastic which is why they fail. They also cost twice as much. Dormans and other auto parts store brands are made of all aluminum
😅😮
Stop smacking
Lol