Truthfully, this is why I don't like aftermarket mods like this. I'm guessing it's a 50k or so service item for the tranny fluid change. Why risk the integrity of the pan for something you're maybe going to do 3 or 4 more times at most? Plus, you can pick up a fluid extractor from HF for pretty cheap. Just run that down the dipstick tube and siphon it out. You'd be amazed how much that gets.
Hey bud. I must tell you. Your style of narrative and knowledge and filming. Makes for such great content. You are one if my favorite creators. Keep it up man ....
@@73xlh PLEASE STAY UNCLE LARRY..HIS CHANNEL WONT CONTINUE IF YOU LEAVE!! YOU ARE ESSENTIAL TO HIS CHANNEL " UNCLE LARRY",IT WILL FAIL IF YOU'RE NOT THERE!!
Well all things come to an end, I just finished all 17 episodes of this stunning project! The amount of detail and care that went into this restoration project is truly incredible, I enjoyed every single one of the videos. Many of your videos have helped me on my restoration process as I own an 85 Firebird T/A, It's clear that you have a deep passion for this vehicle and that you spared no effort in bringing it back to its former glory. This is a testament to your dedication and skill. You should be incredibly proud of yourself! My hat's off to you! 🤝
I bought a little 12 volt oil pump on amazon for about 10 bucks years ago... so you can easily suck out the fluid through the oil dipstick and don't deal with the oil mess when you remove the pan. Very handy.
Hello. I've seen all the episodes of the Pontiac Firebird 3 gen. Thank you so much for your tutorials. Your tutorials helped me a lot. Greetings from Europe from the city of Prague.
Originally started watching this series when I picked up a 91 firebird, I ended up selling mine but I keep coming back to this videos and it makes me wish I never let mine go.
I'd recommend putting the drain in the side of the pan. Point being to drain most of the fluid before dropping the pan. Unless you purchase a pan designed with a bottom drain you're never going to remove all of the fluid regardless if its a bottom drain or side drain.
In March I picked up the exact same firebird (even the color!) but a 92' and before I bought that one I had a 92' convertible(not all original when it came to the engine and interior) and I've been watching this series ever since and now, since I have the exact same one you have, these videos are extremely helpful when attacking problems in my new 92' firebird and a lot of things you've taken care of in this series I've done the same!
Thank you for a great new installment about your cars. Watching your work and hearing your calm and knowledgeable narration is almost like therapy. Keep up the good work!
I bought a 'kit' off Rockauto to repair the worn yoke. Basically it's a thin metal tube that covers the worn yoke bearing surface. Did that years ago, and so far it's worked well. For a drain plug brazing seems to be better than welding, and if ground clearance is a worry install it low on a pan side.
Some of their stuff is actually pretty good. Their 3100/3400 lower intake gasket is better than GM's improved gaskets and most other aftermarket version for example.
Go to Harbor Freight and get a 7-gallon mixing tub. Triple the size of any trans pan I've come across so you can drop it straight down into the tub without ever making a mess. Some of the best $6 I've ever spent.
I used the same welded nut setup on my friend's S10, worked great. Anything to avoid the accidental ATF baptism you get otherwise. If you want to replace that O ring with something better, you may be able to remove that drain plug without letting the oil out. I replaced the leaking copper washer on a Scout oil pan by hooking the shop vac to the oil fill (and blocking off the draft tube) before removing the plug. The air rushing in prevented the oil from rushing out. Worked great and saved me six quarts of Rotella! I think I saw it on AvE. I haven't tried it on a transmission, though.
Awesome videos dude. This is just how things go sometimes. awful lot of effort for not a lot of progress. I love how much care you take in filming and narrating. i died when I saw the JBWeld volcano!
Having a drain plug definitely makes oil changes easier and quicker. However, I think the reason why there isn't a drain plug installed from factory is because each time you change the oil you're supposed to change the filter as well, which would make a drain plug unnecessary or should I say just an additional potential source of oil leak. I'm planning on changing the oil and filter every five years. Taking the oil pan down twice every decade is okay for me. Anyway, great video, very good narrative as always.
Oh damn, i discovered this channel yesterday and i've been watching every episode of this Firebird nonstop pretty much, and now i have to wait for a new one which shocked me haha This has so far been an incredible journey, i just hope you will pay some more attention to areas with surface rust on them, not that it's super important at the moment, but for the looks ♥️
for the drain, cut a U into one flat of the nut, with the nut welded onto the pan with the open part of the U welded pan-side down. that way you can have all the ATF drain out without any issues with pan deformation.
Don't worry about the air deflector, it's the first thing to get tore up underneath. Simple plastic, easy to replace if needed. All it does is focus air up into the radiator, since 3rd gens had extremely poor radiator air flow from the front of the car, even with a grille.
Finally! Need to replace my pinion seal on my 91 Camaro and now there’s a great tutorial. Hopefully that’s the only thing that’s causing my leak and I don’t have the wear yours did.
Sometimes things like that just happen. Not your fault there was a bad groove in the pinion seal area. Keep up the great work. You put out some *fantastic* content 🙂👍
I have use the doorman kit in the past on a 4L60E. It leaked like yours did, and then one day magically stopped 🤷♂️ Also, for the pinion, don't be surprised if it's not torqued down enough. On my old dodge, it had so much play in it. If you can, get an analog (has like a needle on it) torque wrench and see how much drag you have when spinning the pinion freely. This can help determine if you are too loose or not (pre-load). Otherwise, gotta pop the cover off and determine what amount of backlash you have. Off the top of my head, I believe you do pre-load first and then backlash.
Great channel and great story telling for every car... im just concerned about the drain plug, specially when you say that there were some troubles with the car jack and your low car... maybe that oil pan doesn´t have a drain plug to avoid any bump, hole, rock, etc that can hit the pan or your new drain plug and transform it into a oil spill disaster! Considering how low sits the Firebird thats some real concern!
Why did you put the plug in the first place? From my experience, you don't change the transmission fluid but around 100k, and when you do you have to change the filter; therefore you have to take the pan off. I vote for no more plugs.
@@austindoud273 who told you that? a transmission flush and change place? unless you have catastrophic failure that puts shards of metal in the fluid, i say the perfect time for a fluid change is when you are forced to overhaul due to friction wear.. the exception being a tow rig where trans temps get super high.. i can guarantee that trans there was serviced in the recent past and at 200k, it's been overhauled along the way too.. 700r4's don't typically go 200k... my guess that unit was serviced by one of those jiffy flush and lube places that sucked the tranny fluid out and put in fresh.. the pan hadn't been opened since the overhaul.. hence the metal and no friction material...
Mentioned it before and just to top post, any home-made drain or fill ports should be an NPT. A bit of sealant and they'll never leak. Many sizes, styles and materials of plugs, plus you can add valves, elbows, extension nipples, etc. -- a lot options.
You can use a butterfly drain plug meant for stripped oil pans. They're dirt cheap, require next to no work to install, and the one I use for my oil pan has a soft and thick rubber gasket that'll seal to fairly uneven serfaces.
All you gotta do is remove pressure line from radiator and hang it in a bucket and run car till no fluid helps to have a friend to help dont wanna go past the fluid stopping from flowing
You should have put some lifted stops slipped in there as the last cord oil it helps those high mountain treatments live longer because it's higher filter strength and more stickiness to hold the fluid to the park
I drive a 2000 pontiac grand am and it has high miles when I change gas my fluid and filter this summer the guy who was helping me couldn't beleive how clean my fluid was...I couldn't eather
OMG im in love with your stuff. Watched the whole serie and it is perfect. Really quality content. You are an awesome person. You know what you are doing, really smart and cool jokes, really calm. Awesome. And the videos not only the content are really good. If you can, pls keep up the serie with this car and make it a good car. Thank you for the content.
18:00 if obligued to use that yoke, you can polish to mirror finish with a strip of canvas & gun polish paste, back & fort, up &;down aprox. 2 hours elbow grease. No need for lathe. I've done it times before.
Whenever I get a car that doesn't have a drain plug on the trans I just get a Dorman transmission pan. It comes with a drain plug already in it and it's thicker than most stock transmission pans. The best part is it usually runs only $20.
I have found that Constant Velocity joint grease with molybdenum helps significantly when applied to the contact surface of a new seal or the inside diameter. Especially when the rotating surface being sealed against has the witness marks or grooves from years of service. Rear main seals, final drives, CV flanges, cam seals etc. Just a suggestion
Most people use a little bit of RTV are on the outside edge of the seal to help seal it and when you see it and then it all would help steal any irregularities that might be there
You don't need to make a giant mess with draining the pan or spend (a lot of) time adding a drain plug. You can easily set up a siphon with a clear plastic tube into the trans fill tube that will drain a lot of the fluid out and make pan removal a snap. No suction needed, although, it is easier to start the tube empty and use a vacuum pump to pull fluid into the tube than it is to fill the clear tube before inserting it into the trans fill tube. Depending on the ID of your hose, you will probably suck the trans dry (enough) in under 15 minutes. Keep an eye on the can you're filling as you're quite likely to suck more than a gallon out. Once the siphon is started, it will continue so long as the submerged end of the tube inside the trans is higher than the end of the clear tube outside the trans. Your filter should NOT have stuck to the bottom of the pan. Replacing the filter grommet is imperative.
If you could change the gearbox oil once in 200 000miles, why on earth would you need a drain plug? Do you believe this weekend car will make 50 000miles in the foreseeable future? Even after 50k miles... Would you change the oil? How much time would you save by dropping the oil pan and changing the gasket, compared to ... making a drain plug? I think that in the long run you do not need a drain plug at all. Thanks for the video! Keep it up.
BAD SIGN IF THE FILTER CAME OFF WITH THE PAN!! That's an indication that the filter might have dropped into the pan at some point, meaning all the fluid cycling through was completely unfiltered!!
That aftermarket drain plug o ring sucks balls. I have one but the key is you use rtv when you put it back in and snug it up. Won't leak. Found that out the hard way
The drain plug kit is a good idea, it needs a chamfer put on it for the o'ring to go into then you can tighten the drain bolt all the way down, guessing that one got past quality control but i know you have a chamfer bit lol
Regarding the Dorman kit, I go by a saying "I'm too poor to buy cheap parts". And I especially try to avoid parts from China, if there's an alternative. I've had a few bad experiences with chinese parts myself. I'm not saying you should go expensive, but middle range, or simply non-Chinese is usually the way to go. Also, from experience, I can tell you, that chasing down small leaks on older cars like these often has the same result as in your case, since not only the seals, but the moving parts are worn as well, and it pays off only, if the leakage gets more severe (I have a BMW from the same period as your Firebird, and leaking oil is just widely accepted as a part of the normal ownership experience). A bit of an extreme case from the past, I've heard about (not to be taken as a general fact, nor advice..). In some old Zetor tractors in my country, transmissions were leaking so much, that they almost never needed to change the oil, they simply let the "old" oil leak out, and just added new oil once in a while. Which was also convenient, because the transmission held more than 25 liters of oil...so the oil change would be quite a bit more costly, than in a car.
You could try drilling a hole on the side of the nut so that it is flat on the bottom of the oil trans pan, but when the bolt is removed it can drain from the drilled hole in the nut? just a suggestion have never tried this.
On your transmission pan you could have welded a 1/2 not pipe coupling in the lower side right at the bottom of the pan and used a 1/2 not pipe plug. And a little Teflon thread sealer and no leaks
The doorman drain plug is fine as far as clearance.. I have a dual exhaust on my car that rides below the frame rails of the car and on stock suspension, doesn't hit the ground.
I've worked on plenty of blazers without the drain pan and the easiest way to drain the fluid is to steal one of your friends fluid vac's if you don't want to make a mess. Then go to the junk yard and buy a used pan off a 1999+ Chevy full size for 5 dollars with a factory drain plug. And then never use a Fram filter...
The person who desided to put an o-ring in that kit instead of a flat seal or crush washer should be fired.
Truthfully, this is why I don't like aftermarket mods like this. I'm guessing it's a 50k or so service item for the tranny fluid change. Why risk the integrity of the pan for something you're maybe going to do 3 or 4 more times at most? Plus, you can pick up a fluid extractor from HF for pretty cheap. Just run that down the dipstick tube and siphon it out. You'd be amazed how much that gets.
It's doorman. The company should be fired
Ah yes, thirdgen life. The story of doing mundane maintenance that yields absolutely no results. Still love mine, though
All the fun of catching up on maintenance the previous owner didnt do just so you can find out the shits beyond fucked anyway
4th gens are no different. Still love mine too!
4th gens too! love my rust bucket tho 😂
Ain’t that the truth!
2nd gens, too
Hey bud. I must tell you. Your style of narrative and knowledge and filming. Makes for such great content. You are one if my favorite creators. Keep it up man ....
It's just the necessary, nothing less, nothing more. A rare situation in RUclips this days.
Style of narration? He sounds like a broken, skipping record. This shit wore me out. Wont watch anymore of these vids
@@73xlh UNCLE LARRY DONT GO OUR CHANNEL WONT SURVIVE WITHOUT YOU IUNCLE LARRY-. Fuzzy dice
@@jquest43 I've seen 3 year olds that make more sense then you. Wtf
@@73xlh PLEASE STAY UNCLE LARRY..HIS CHANNEL WONT CONTINUE IF YOU LEAVE!!
YOU ARE ESSENTIAL TO HIS CHANNEL " UNCLE LARRY",IT WILL FAIL IF YOU'RE NOT THERE!!
Well all things come to an end, I just finished all 17 episodes of this stunning project! The amount of detail and care that went into this restoration project is truly incredible, I enjoyed every single one of the videos. Many of your videos have helped me on my restoration process as I own an 85 Firebird T/A, It's clear that you have a deep passion for this vehicle and that you spared no effort in bringing it back to its former glory.
This is a testament to your dedication and skill. You should be incredibly proud of yourself! My hat's off to you! 🤝
I’m not a car guy, I mostly just like how detailed and determined this guy is. But damn, some of these car terms are goofy!
Yep, I know that feeling. Overzealously fixing something only half broken only to create more problems. It's the pathological tinkerer's bane.
I bought a little 12 volt oil pump on amazon for about 10 bucks years ago... so you can easily suck out the fluid through the oil dipstick and don't deal with the oil mess when you remove the pan. Very handy.
Yes waking up to my favorite RUclipsr
Hello. I've seen all the episodes of the Pontiac Firebird 3 gen. Thank you so much for your tutorials. Your tutorials helped me a lot. Greetings from Europe from the city of Prague.
New 700-R4 pan with integrated drain plug is $30 on eBay
even cheaper at Jeg's. $21.33 before shipping
Originally started watching this series when I picked up a 91 firebird, I ended up selling mine but I keep coming back to this videos and it makes me wish I never let mine go.
I'd recommend putting the drain in the side of the pan. Point being to drain most of the fluid before dropping the pan. Unless you purchase a pan designed with a bottom drain you're never going to remove all of the fluid regardless if its a bottom drain or side drain.
20 Minutes of doing things worse and not fixing anything at all. I love it.
Loved watching you restore this. I just got a 1991 Firebird last Wednesday.
Just binge watched the entire series, and i still cant believe it..
In March I picked up the exact same firebird (even the color!) but a 92' and before I bought that one I had a 92' convertible(not all original when it came to the engine and interior) and I've been watching this series ever since and now, since I have the exact same one you have, these videos are extremely helpful when attacking problems in my new 92' firebird and a lot of things you've taken care of in this series I've done the same!
You could also make bigger ramps and you’d avoid the cost of a new Jack.
I've been in the process of resurrecting my new 86 K20 and seriously binging your stuff after discovering your channel 5 years ago. Kudo brother
Upside down castle nut on the inside of the pan for extra drainage?
Honestly a rivnut seems like the smartest, and easiest fix.
I understand those days when the vehicle fights back. They are pretty often in my case
Binge watched this about a week ago when I first found your channel
You are by far the best speaker on RUclips that I’ve ever come across. Well done.
Thank you for a great new installment about your cars. Watching your work and hearing your calm and knowledgeable narration is almost like therapy. Keep up the good work!
I love the honesty. Thank you so much for posting this video. It was very informative
I bought a 'kit' off Rockauto to repair the worn yoke.
Basically it's a thin metal tube that covers the worn yoke bearing surface.
Did that years ago, and so far it's worked well.
For a drain plug brazing seems to be better than welding, and if ground clearance is a worry install it low on a pan side.
Dorman products are bottom of the barrel quality .. from personal experience and reading comments from other youtubers on here..
Agreed. Only use them when there is absolutely zero other options.
Yea they're super junk, but sometimes they make that one weird plastic or rubber piece that hasn't been available OEM for years so.. you gotta use it.
@@sakumisan exactly.
Some of their stuff is actually pretty good. Their 3100/3400 lower intake gasket is better than GM's improved gaskets and most other aftermarket version for example.
i second that..i have never not regretted buying a doorman product. there oil lines for example will start leaking through the crimps in like a week .
dainplug.....please install a drain plug.....YES!!!!.......oh noooooo
Go to Harbor Freight and get a 7-gallon mixing tub. Triple the size of any trans pan I've come across so you can drop it straight down into the tub without ever making a mess. Some of the best $6 I've ever spent.
I used the same welded nut setup on my friend's S10, worked great. Anything to avoid the accidental ATF baptism you get otherwise. If you want to replace that O ring with something better, you may be able to remove that drain plug without letting the oil out. I replaced the leaking copper washer on a Scout oil pan by hooking the shop vac to the oil fill (and blocking off the draft tube) before removing the plug. The air rushing in prevented the oil from rushing out. Worked great and saved me six quarts of Rotella! I think I saw it on AvE. I haven't tried it on a transmission, though.
I feel your frustration. Keep up the good work. Trials and tribulations.
Awesome videos dude. This is just how things go sometimes. awful lot of effort for not a lot of progress. I love how much care you take in filming and narrating.
i died when I saw the JBWeld volcano!
Having a drain plug definitely makes oil changes easier and quicker. However, I think the reason why there isn't a drain plug installed from factory is because each time you change the oil you're supposed to change the filter as well, which would make a drain plug unnecessary or should I say just an additional potential source of oil leak. I'm planning on changing the oil and filter every five years. Taking the oil pan down twice every decade is okay for me. Anyway, great video, very good narrative as always.
Oh damn, i discovered this channel yesterday and i've been watching every episode of this Firebird nonstop pretty much, and now i have to wait for a new one which shocked me haha
This has so far been an incredible journey, i just hope you will pay some more attention to areas with surface rust on them, not that it's super important at the moment, but for the looks ♥️
for the drain, cut a U into one flat of the nut, with the nut welded onto the pan with the open part of the U welded pan-side down. that way you can have all the ATF drain out without any issues with pan deformation.
Good to see you doing car videos again!
Hope there’s more on the 91 Firebird enjoyed watching all of it
Don't worry about the air deflector, it's the first thing to get tore up underneath. Simple plastic, easy to replace if needed. All it does is focus air up into the radiator, since 3rd gens had extremely poor radiator air flow from the front of the car, even with a grille.
Definitely my favorite series so far 😁
I really enjoyed watching this project! I've looked it twice already :D Is there any new content upcoming? I would realy love to see more! Greets
I don't know why, but I love this freaking car! ❤️❤️❤️
Finally! Need to replace my pinion seal on my 91 Camaro and now there’s a great tutorial. Hopefully that’s the only thing that’s causing my leak and I don’t have the wear yours did.
Sometimes things like that just happen. Not your fault there was a bad groove in the pinion seal area. Keep up the great work. You put out some *fantastic* content 🙂👍
Extremely rare opening footage of the DC Beltway without epic gridlock
Great vid as always, respect the fact that you displayed flaws in the vid, can’t wait to see how you’ll fix them in future vids👍🏽
Don’t beat yourself up to much, Mike. We’ve all had those days.
Dorman products are garbage and that kit is on the bottom rung of their products.
I have use the doorman kit in the past on a 4L60E. It leaked like yours did, and then one day magically stopped 🤷♂️
Also, for the pinion, don't be surprised if it's not torqued down enough. On my old dodge, it had so much play in it. If you can, get an analog (has like a needle on it) torque wrench and see how much drag you have when spinning the pinion freely. This can help determine if you are too loose or not (pre-load). Otherwise, gotta pop the cover off and determine what amount of backlash you have. Off the top of my head, I believe you do pre-load first and then backlash.
Great channel and great story telling for every car... im just concerned about the drain plug, specially when you say that there were some troubles with the car jack and your low car... maybe that oil pan doesn´t have a drain plug to avoid any bump, hole, rock, etc that can hit the pan or your new drain plug and transform it into a oil spill disaster! Considering how low sits the Firebird thats some real concern!
good to see you again.
Cant wait to see this project finished.
Why did you put the plug in the first place? From my experience, you don't change the transmission fluid but around 100k, and when you do you have to change the filter; therefore you have to take the pan off. I vote for no more plugs.
I was thinking the same thing
Or buy a pan with a drain plug. I know the budget counts for something.
You're supposed to change the fluid every 20k
@@austindoud273 who told you that? a transmission flush and change place? unless you have catastrophic failure that puts shards of metal in the fluid, i say the perfect time for a fluid change is when you are forced to overhaul due to friction wear.. the exception being a tow rig where trans temps get super high.. i can guarantee that trans there was serviced in the recent past and at 200k, it's been overhauled along the way too.. 700r4's don't typically go 200k... my guess that unit was serviced by one of those jiffy flush and lube places that sucked the tranny fluid out and put in fresh.. the pan hadn't been opened since the overhaul.. hence the metal and no friction material...
@@austindoud273 it say 15,000 under extreme conditions 100,000 miles under normal driving conditions. I'm unsure of what your point is.
Mentioned it before and just to top post, any home-made drain or fill ports should be an NPT. A bit of sealant and they'll never leak. Many sizes, styles and materials of plugs, plus you can add valves, elbows, extension nipples, etc. -- a lot options.
You can use a butterfly drain plug meant for stripped oil pans. They're dirt cheap, require next to no work to install, and the one I use for my oil pan has a soft and thick rubber gasket that'll seal to fairly uneven serfaces.
I would definitely like to see more of this car
All you gotta do is remove pressure line from radiator and hang it in a bucket and run car till no fluid helps to have a friend to help dont wanna go past the fluid stopping from flowing
You should have put some lifted stops slipped in there as the last cord oil it helps those high mountain treatments live longer because it's higher filter strength and more stickiness to hold the fluid to the park
I drive a 2000 pontiac grand am and it has high miles when I change gas my fluid and filter this summer the guy who was helping me couldn't beleive how clean my fluid was...I couldn't eather
Thanks for the upload
OMG im in love with your stuff. Watched the whole serie and it is perfect. Really quality content. You are an awesome person. You know what you are doing, really smart and cool jokes, really calm. Awesome. And the videos not only the content are really good. If you can, pls keep up the serie with this car and make it a good car. Thank you for the content.
18:00 if obligued to use that yoke, you can polish to mirror finish with a strip of canvas & gun polish paste, back & fort, up &;down aprox. 2 hours elbow grease. No need for lathe. I've done it times before.
Episode 18?
Whenever I get a car that doesn't have a drain plug on the trans I just get a Dorman transmission pan. It comes with a drain plug already in it and it's thicker than most stock transmission pans. The best part is it usually runs only $20.
Thanks man your videos are really the best out i gathered so much knowledge on my 88’ Pontiac firebird
I have found that Constant Velocity joint grease with molybdenum helps significantly when applied to the contact surface of a new seal or the inside diameter. Especially when the rotating surface being sealed against has the witness marks or grooves from years of service. Rear main seals, final drives, CV flanges, cam seals etc. Just a suggestion
Why not just buy a pan with a drain plug?
Also, wouldn't this be a good time to replace the ujoints? Cheap insurance
This is a great series
Most people use a little bit of RTV are on the outside edge of the seal to help seal it and when you see it and then it all would help steal any irregularities that might be there
Been 2 years, hows she holding up?
Hey... hey come back!
Well the Video was fairly simple but at least it's all about CARS, Thanks Kid!
Any updates on the car?
I love this car at this point.
I don't recommend a drain plug in your transmission pan. The next time you'd need to change the fluid, you'd need a filter anyway.
You don't need to make a giant mess with draining the pan or spend (a lot of) time adding a drain plug. You can easily set up a siphon with a clear plastic tube into the trans fill tube that will drain a lot of the fluid out and make pan removal a snap. No suction needed, although, it is easier to start the tube empty and use a vacuum pump to pull fluid into the tube than it is to fill the clear tube before inserting it into the trans fill tube. Depending on the ID of your hose, you will probably suck the trans dry (enough) in under 15 minutes. Keep an eye on the can you're filling as you're quite likely to suck more than a gallon out. Once the siphon is started, it will continue so long as the submerged end of the tube inside the trans is higher than the end of the clear tube outside the trans.
Your filter should NOT have stuck to the bottom of the pan. Replacing the filter grommet is imperative.
If you could change the gearbox oil once in 200 000miles, why on earth would you need a drain plug? Do you believe this weekend car will make 50 000miles in the foreseeable future? Even after 50k miles... Would you change the oil? How much time would you save by dropping the oil pan and changing the gasket, compared to ... making a drain plug? I think that in the long run you do not need a drain plug at all. Thanks for the video! Keep it up.
Teflon tape woulda been the trick for this one
I assumed u filmed this before those jackstands were recalled
I hope you post the second part to your axel pinion seal issue, I’m currently having the exact same issue
You could use a castleated nut turned upside down inside the oil pan. This will solve the leftover fluid issue.
BAD SIGN IF THE FILTER CAME OFF WITH THE PAN!! That's an indication that the filter might have dropped into the pan at some point, meaning all the fluid cycling through was completely unfiltered!!
That aftermarket drain plug o ring sucks balls. I have one but the key is you use rtv when you put it back in and snug it up. Won't leak. Found that out the hard way
Good series
The drain plug kit is a good idea, it needs a chamfer put on it for the o'ring to go into then you can tighten the drain bolt all the way down, guessing that one got past quality control but i know you have a chamfer bit lol
why dont you weld a nut on the outside? so that the oil can drain properly
Have you considered a "Speedi-Sleeve"/repair sleeve journal saver such as what is used on a harmonic balance journal when a groove is present?
I've seen that Dorman "add-on" drain plug before, it works for about a year then leaks like crazy (saw it on a 2007 Camry).
Regarding the Dorman kit, I go by a saying "I'm too poor to buy cheap parts". And I especially try to avoid parts from China, if there's an alternative. I've had a few bad experiences with chinese parts myself. I'm not saying you should go expensive, but middle range, or simply non-Chinese is usually the way to go.
Also, from experience, I can tell you, that chasing down small leaks on older cars like these often has the same result as in your case, since not only the seals, but the moving parts are worn as well, and it pays off only, if the leakage gets more severe (I have a BMW from the same period as your Firebird, and leaking oil is just widely accepted as a part of the normal ownership experience).
A bit of an extreme case from the past, I've heard about (not to be taken as a general fact, nor advice..). In some old Zetor tractors in my country, transmissions were leaking so much, that they almost never needed to change the oil, they simply let the "old" oil leak out, and just added new oil once in a while. Which was also convenient, because the transmission held more than 25 liters of oil...so the oil change would be quite a bit more costly, than in a car.
I want more videoooooos. Two years later
@Fuzzy Dice Projects
At 5:00 minutes the dimple on your Silverado Pan is where the factory drain plug is installed on my pan.
You could try drilling a hole on the side of the nut so that it is flat on the bottom of the oil trans pan, but when the bolt is removed it can drain from the drilled hole in the nut? just a suggestion have never tried this.
welcome to fuzzy dice projects, today I completely fail.
On your transmission pan you could have welded a 1/2 not pipe coupling in the lower side right at the bottom of the pan and used a 1/2 not pipe plug. And a little Teflon thread sealer and no leaks
use a speedy sleeve next time you have a groove like that on a yoke
Where's episode 18???
Where's episode 18! How's the old girl doing now!
The doorman drain plug is fine as far as clearance.. I have a dual exhaust on my car that rides below the frame rails of the car and on stock suspension, doesn't hit the ground.
drill holes in the nut that you weld. or use a castle nut upside down for drainback.
I've worked on plenty of blazers without the drain pan and the easiest way to drain the fluid is to steal one of your friends fluid vac's if you don't want to make a mess. Then go to the junk yard and buy a used pan off a 1999+ Chevy full size for 5 dollars with a factory drain plug. And then never use a Fram filter...
Hay the power washer survived this time
even my low profile jack hits the deflector because you gotta get it so far underneath
Haha yeah those things happen, great video as always 💪🏻