Bruh, 8:00 is the cleanest wirenut "redo" I've ever seen. I've never thought about unwinding the original wires like that. Although I'm a DIY person, not a certified electrician my mom was an electrician for 30 years and taught me a lot. Love your videos, keep 'em coming.
It's my life, it's my house, judge away, fuck off...words to live by 😂😂😂 Also, I love the fact you have the screw holes up and down. Thanks for the upload, keep'em coming.
Very interesting to know about the metal tabs used for heat dissipation. I’ve always taken the minimum off, but never realized the purpose behind that. Maybe not quite as important with LED lighting, but great to know.
@@boogermeats those will get warmer the more watts they need to dim down, and the metal acts as a heatsink. Remove some of the metal, the thermal capacity won't be the same and may get too warm while dimming high watt loads. It makes sense to me.
@@boogermeats I would presume the documentation that comes with these lists how much derating happens per piece of metal removed. Would be best to see what the manufacturer says.
Hi, Even better than a timer, the DewStop moisture sensing switch is fully automatic AND has an adjustable timer (settable between 3 and 15 minutes) function when you need to run it manually. Since the switch is being replaced anyway, this is the best approach. I installed one several years ago and love having it run as long as I'm in the shower and then it will turn off automatically when the humidity is low enough. On a different note, I've implemented the Lutron Caseta system, including the bathroom light switch, anytime I leave the house, all the lights, including the bathroom light, go off. The system is also programmed to turn off all lights (not including the bedrooms) at midnight. All switches are dimmers, so I'm not blinding myself when I need the bathroom late at night. Wish you well with your videos. Bruce
There are a few of them around, I use a similar Leviton product that has an even longer timer range, and will also run periodically - say 5 minutes every hour, great if you're venting a litterbox.
Great video! It is aggravating when those before you don’t leave enough wire. I appreciated the fun fact about copper clad aluminum and about how removing the tabs decreases the rating.
The electrician I worked with told me, just because something can be done (from code) doesn't mean it should be done. Since we worked in a retirement home, switches and outlets were constantly going bad or getting destroyed and would need to be replaced often. As such, we never stripped a mid conductor to create a connecting point. Reason was that exposed hot could accidently get jumped from someone working in the box. It's safer to run a separate pigtail to each switch instead of having that unnecessary exposed conductor.
@@sylvesterstewart868 I like and use the lever ones. Cost more, but a big time saver and easy to change things later. I've seen too many wire nuts loose.
@@JasonW.I Was taught to make a mechanical connection by twisting the wire and the wire nut just insulates the connection. I have some I've used for temporarily connecting this solar panel set up I have. It seems like they could be good for where you might not want to risk breaking old wires by twisting them.
@@sylvesterstewart868 The loose ones I've seen are where the wires were not twisted, and the wire nut was all that was holding things together. Wire insulation was usually blackened/charred close to the nut.
Great video as always! I just put in something like this a few months back, except I went with a Leviton IPHS5-1LW since my problem is more people forgetting to turn it ON when getting in the shower. It turns on/off at a button press, for 30 minutes of runtime, then auto off. It will also turn on when above spec humidity and until spec is reached. Humidity sensitivity and runtime are configurable with dials under the cover so there are options and still a neat and simple operation.
I also get great satisfaction from cleaning up a janky junction box when I change or upgrade a switch or receptacle. And yeah... It's nice to just be able to turn the fan on and let it automatically "courtesy vent" after you leave without having to remember to come back and turn it off later. 🤣
I feel like it'd be insanely educational to watch you put in a subpanel, and discuss the code behind all your choices. I recognize you're super busy, but if there's ever an opportunity for you to do that and record it, it'd be the absolute best one on RUclips.
this was 1 item I added when I bought my house, when upgrading the electrical, I added the 30 minute keywound switch in all the bathrooms.great idea! and now its taken care of....
Finally got a good answer in why a timer is code required, at least here. Fire code requires it due to a rash of attic fires from old fans running endlessly
I just installed a fan unit with build in moisture sensor in conjunction with timer so unit turns on automatically while taking a shower or in some cases were some bathrooms have washer dryer unit works great
I've done that in the past too, but sometimes you have some extra stink and need to keep that thing on for a long time lol - I guess a lot of motion sensors let you program time delays though too. Solid option, you're right
Even though, I was looking for another timer, I was so entertained, I kept watching. Great job keeping us laughing. I am looking for a timer, that I can plug in my big fan, so it can dry out my shower, then turn off after 1 1/2 hours. I figured, I would plug a timer in the outlet, plug my big fan into the timer, and have a remote control mounted next to my shower. Any thoughts on this? Thanks, Glenn
So the switches in this bathroom are a vertical unit ie there’s 2 switches with one on top of the other and they flip left and right to turn on and off. I’m sure you’re familiar with this as an electrician.. so what do you recommend I do for that situation? PLEASE! 🙏
I have seen old neutral pigtails from the 1950s where they left one leg long, skinned a section and twisted it with the other neutrals. Then they soldered it and covered with friction tape.
@@kevinpoore5626 It can possibly clear a ground fault if the hot wire in the metal box happens to become exposed and touches the box. Better than nothing at all if the box is metal.
When you put the cover plate on, you can see the green LED next to the "ON' label is illuminated (you can see it better at 16:38). Why is it on already? Was the power not turned off, or does this device have a battery-backup to maintain the setting if the power goes out?
We don't find separate fan switches very often over this side of the Atlantic, usually only very old or very poorly retro-fitted installations. More common is having the fan on the light-switch with a delay timer cut-off. Switch the light on, the fan comes on. Switch the light off and the fan stays on for anything from 5 up to 30 minutes afterwards. The good parts are that the fans always come on when the bathroom is in use (unless you do your business in the dark) and there's no permanently on option. The bad part is that this does no good if the kid also leaves the light on all the time!
I have a Panasonic FV-0511VQ1. Have you ever had issues with these timers not work with certain bath fans? I see the bath fan slowly startup and then shut off on its own before the timer expires. Changing the timer to the always on setting does not remedy the situation. Thanks.
In fairness, there are times.... like when you eat *White Castle* for example... that you do *_need_* to leave that bathroom fan running for *8 to 10 hours* (12 hours if that burger had cheese). Commenting for a friend.
If you loose power does the switch default back to on? Kick the breaker off wait and min and kick it back on. Wondering if you will have to re-program after.
Random question I have 3 different porch lights in 3 different places around the perimeter of the house is it possble to connect all 3 porch lights to 1 timer or does each 1 need a seperate timer switch??
I am new to your channel and I am learning as much as I can on switches and such and learning from others(like yourself), I was curious why you use regular twist connectors and not Wago connectors?
Or change out the fan with one of those humidity-sensing ones. Ours was super old and noisy and barely moved air anyways. Replaced with a model that was quieter, higher CFM, Auto on with humidity (showering) and can manually trigger it on for 15 min with flicking it on-off-on quickly. Also was FORCED to do this since the switch controls the bathroom wall light as well, no extra switch leg in the box for just the fan. Yay old homes.
Even better than a timer is a humidity sensor switch. Leviton makes one (PN IPHS5-742-0LW) which works well. Simplifies use by removing an actual duration selection (thereby removing the decision from my kids), but allows manual turning on with a single button, or automatic turning on of fan when humidity rises (no longer need to yell at my kids to turn on the fan when they take a shower!). I've replaced all my digital timer switches with the humidity sensing switch, which should just be a code requirement because of its benefits.
Hey great video but get yourself a voltclaw to push those wires back into the box. Also to get the plate lined up and level stick it on backwards and put a level on it. Finally turn off the power unless you like buying $30 timers that blow up when you push them in.(I usually tape up the timer it it has exposed screws)
Great video! I have two questions out of curiosity: 1. Can you give me a ballpark estimate what an electrician would charge to do something like this? 2. What does it mean that the wattage rating will go down if you need to clip those tabs off...is that a safety concern? Thanks!
Can you still turn the vents when the light switch it’s Off or when the dimmer it’s at low or half way? My Fan doesn’t come on until my light switch dimmer is at high or at On position.
Mine always left the garage lights on because the washer/dryer were in there. Annoyed the shit out of me, so I put an occupancy sensor in there...problem solved.
Thanks for the vid. Like the comment about the tabs you broke off. Would've liked a mention about what happens, what do it mean... great vid over all 👍 👍 thank you.
Look through his channel, generally for most places you must be licensed to do commercial and industrial, but you may work under someone for residential, call around to your local chain and individual residential electrician services and ask if they could use help and are willing to train. It’s usually that easy and since it’s a construction job for the most part unless you do service calls, you may not even need to do an application. Good luck.
I’m new too, I went the trade school route and just finished last month. I just started calling a bunch of companies in my area after I graduated and I start next week
15 min is fine to destink the room! Interesting about the heat sink on the switch. Speaking of heat, I just learned that there is code for thermal expansion of pvc conduit and an expansion coupling to handle this. Made me think of the wire in the conduit. I'm running 1 1/2 PVC 90 feet to a subpannel. Using 2-2-2-4 aluminum wire. The PVC will expand and contract about 3" in a 100degree temp change. What about the wire? Can't find anything on this, but it will expand with the temperature changes. Would it be a good idea to put a pull box in the middle and loop the wire in a circle to make room for the expansion and contraction? Also, a video on different types of wire would be cool. I learned a lot looking for what type of wire to use for this.
I have a bathroom fan controlled by 2 x 3 way switches. One in the bathroom and the other on the lower floor to use the same fan as an exhaust for kitchen fumes. (Open concept floor). How do I install a timer in the bathroom? Cannot find a 3 way timer switch.
So, since you mention DIY, I do electrical work professionally, but in RVs. I am wanting to become a certified/licensed electrician. The catch, I’ve recently gone into business for/with myself, and don’t have time for an apprenticeship. Do you know any way to get certified/licensed without an apprenticeship? I will only be doing electrical work the pertains to RVs, such as hooking up 50 amp service plugs at peoples homes for their RV.
I installed this very switch and it just flashed. Instructions noted the load is either to small or to big. Is there another timer switch that might work.
Do you know of a timer switch that gives you the option of constant power (no timer) as well as timed? My wife likes to run the fan as a white noise sound while going to sleep and needs to run for a long period of time.
Hey Justine would you. Explain. tell us if someone wants to be an electrician what is the first step. Or just say an electrician helper. Do you want a diploma? We need a video for that subject pls big man thank very much
In residential, how many 14/2 can fit through a 3/4” hole in joist? I understand the hole is not allow to > than 1/3 of the size of the joist and stay 2” away from the sides. Please help
Hole has to be 1 1/4" from the edge. We run no more than 3 14-2 through a 7/8"s hole if the circuit is on an arc fault breaker and up to 5 14-2 on a standard breaker.
Don't be a dope like me. When I had my bathroom remodeled I went to a.large supply house who told.me on the phone that they stock 2 different batroom fans with moisture senser to turn fan on. When I got there of course they were.out if stock and carpenter was sheet rocking ceiling & walls next morning so I had to purchase a regular ceiling fan but with a night & regular light. Turned power.off the next night and wired in a 10 20 30 &.60 second timer. Turned power back on and fan did not work. Of course as a sparky with over 40 years in the trade I don' t need to tead instructions. Pulled timer.out of wall to check that I had power. Da never moved very little slide switch to on position. Thanks for another informative vid.
Do you know what a window cut is? U dont need a knife and it actually can make hooking up boxes alot faster cause it allows you to premake double gang outlets
Are you experiencing access issues on your website? Cannot log in to the practice exam I bought late December. Also, I am unable to reach out to you through your regular contact methods for assistance.
An average bathroom fan runs at ~20W, or .02 kW. In Colorado we pay $0.13 per kW-hr so it costs $0.0026 per hour. Say you let the fan just run an hour each day and eventually get around to turning it off - just like most of us do. That's less than $1 per year. Can you guess how long it takes to offset the cost of this $30 switch? And a lot of people will pay a contractor to do this. What's your hourly rate? Add that to the $30. Now you probably have more than 1 bathroom so multiply that $30 by that number. This switch is as useless as an electric pencil sharpener.
My bathroom fan is on two three-way switches five feet from each other. WTF were they thinking. There are also two doors to the room. How do I wire a timer switch to this mess.
Um...Copper Clad Aluminum isn't "dipped" in copper...LOL... it's metallurgically bonded from AA8000 Aluminium and a copper veneer. In fact, that bond has to take place prior to being drawn into appropriate conductor sizing. Now, back in the time you are speaking the issue was AA 1350 Alumimum and it was more an issue with the terminations rather than the AA 1350 Aluminum. It was all about the terminations and the expansion and contraction differences of the terminals and the aluminum, less ductile AA 1350. Just for some additional information of course. Now turn off the exhaust fans JOSH.
Bruh, 8:00 is the cleanest wirenut "redo" I've ever seen. I've never thought about unwinding the original wires like that. Although I'm a DIY person, not a certified electrician my mom was an electrician for 30 years and taught me a lot. Love your videos, keep 'em coming.
It's my life, it's my house, judge away, fuck off...words to live by 😂😂😂 Also, I love the fact you have the screw holes up and down. Thanks for the upload, keep'em coming.
I prefer screw holes up/down.
They collect dust when sideways and show how little I dust my outlets.
Very interesting to know about the metal tabs used for heat dissipation. I’ve always taken the minimum off, but never realized the purpose behind that. Maybe not quite as important with LED lighting, but great to know.
@@boogermeats those will get warmer the more watts they need to dim down, and the metal acts as a heatsink. Remove some of the metal, the thermal capacity won't be the same and may get too warm while dimming high watt loads. It makes sense to me.
@@boogermeats I would presume the documentation that comes with these lists how much derating happens per piece of metal removed. Would be best to see what the manufacturer says.
Hi,
Even better than a timer, the DewStop moisture sensing switch is fully automatic AND has an adjustable timer (settable between 3 and 15 minutes) function when you need to run it manually. Since the switch is being replaced anyway, this is the best approach.
I installed one several years ago and love having it run as long as I'm in the shower and then it will turn off automatically when the humidity is low enough.
On a different note, I've implemented the Lutron Caseta system, including the bathroom light switch, anytime I leave the house, all the lights, including the bathroom light, go off. The system is also programmed to turn off all lights (not including the bedrooms) at midnight. All switches are dimmers, so I'm not blinding myself when I need the bathroom late at night.
Wish you well with your videos.
Bruce
There are a few of them around, I use a similar Leviton product that has an even longer timer range, and will also run periodically - say 5 minutes every hour, great if you're venting a litterbox.
😂 The power was still on @ 13:05 for a split second... I appreciate all the info man it’s helping me a lot in my class in Killeen.
Thank You
I noticed that too. 😂
Great video! It is aggravating when those before you don’t leave enough wire.
I appreciated the fun fact about copper clad aluminum and about how removing the tabs decreases the rating.
I did this in my house after watching this video (I’m an apprentice electrician in TX). It works great!
I didn't realize those tabs dissipate heat. Thanks for the info. Great video! We put these in all our bathrooms when we wired our house.
The electrician I worked with told me, just because something can be done (from code) doesn't mean it should be done.
Since we worked in a retirement home, switches and outlets were constantly going bad or getting destroyed and would need to be replaced often.
As such, we never stripped a mid conductor to create a connecting point. Reason was that exposed hot could accidently get jumped from someone working in the box.
It's safer to run a separate pigtail to each switch instead of having that unnecessary exposed conductor.
run the fan exhaust into his room he'll remember to turn it off lol
aaaahhhahahaha that's an outstanding suggestion! hahaha
@@ElectricianU What are your thoughts on wagos? Really enjoyed your transformer video, thanks.
@@sylvesterstewart868 I like and use the lever ones. Cost more, but a big time saver and easy to change things later.
I've seen too many wire nuts loose.
@@JasonW.I Was taught to make a mechanical connection by twisting the wire and the wire nut just insulates the connection. I have some I've used for temporarily connecting this solar panel set up I have. It seems like they could be good for where you might not want to risk breaking old wires by twisting them.
@@sylvesterstewart868 The loose ones I've seen are where the wires were not twisted, and the wire nut was all that was holding things together. Wire insulation was usually blackened/charred close to the nut.
Great video as always! I just put in something like this a few months back, except I went with a Leviton IPHS5-1LW since my problem is more people forgetting to turn it ON when getting in the shower. It turns on/off at a button press, for 30 minutes of runtime, then auto off. It will also turn on when above spec humidity and until spec is reached. Humidity sensitivity and runtime are configurable with dials under the cover so there are options and still a neat and simple operation.
I also get great satisfaction from cleaning up a janky junction box when I change or upgrade a switch or receptacle. And yeah... It's nice to just be able to turn the fan on and let it automatically "courtesy vent" after you leave without having to remember to come back and turn it off later. 🤣
I feel like it'd be insanely educational to watch you put in a subpanel, and discuss the code behind all your choices. I recognize you're super busy, but if there's ever an opportunity for you to do that and record it, it'd be the absolute best one on RUclips.
this was 1 item I added when I bought my house, when upgrading the electrical, I added the 30 minute keywound switch in all the bathrooms.great idea! and now its taken care of....
Finally got a good answer in why a timer is code required, at least here. Fire code requires it due to a rash of attic fires from old fans running endlessly
I just installed a fan unit with build in moisture sensor in conjunction with timer so unit turns on automatically while taking a shower or in some cases were some bathrooms have washer dryer unit works great
Great video like always.
I just went with motion sensors, so I don't have to even touch them.
I've done that in the past too, but sometimes you have some extra stink and need to keep that thing on for a long time lol - I guess a lot of motion sensors let you program time delays though too. Solid option, you're right
I’ve been watching your videos for awhile now and I have to tell you Dustin that your contents are getting better and better.
Good job.
Loved this video! Dustin my dude, this channel is the reason I'm becoming an electrician. YOU ROCK.
Even though, I was looking for another timer, I was so entertained, I kept watching. Great job keeping us laughing. I am looking for a timer, that I can plug in my big fan, so it can dry out my shower, then turn off after 1 1/2 hours. I figured, I would plug a timer in the outlet, plug my big fan into the timer, and have a remote control mounted next to my shower. Any thoughts on this? Thanks, Glenn
I see your drywall guys also love giving texture to the wires.
I'll be doing this soon for all three of the bathrooms in my house. I'll be using Wagos. Love em.
The model in your vid is MA-T51-WH (60 minutes). Your description is linking to the Lutron MA-T530GHW-WH (30 minutes). Thx for the install tips!
So the switches in this bathroom are a vertical unit ie there’s 2 switches with one on top of the other and they flip left and right to turn on and off. I’m sure you’re familiar with this as an electrician.. so what do you recommend I do for that situation? PLEASE! 🙏
In regards to copper cladding you mentioned, a wire could even be hollow w/o loss of conductivity due to AC skin effect.
I have seen old neutral pigtails from the 1950s where they left one leg long, skinned a section and twisted it with the other neutrals. Then they soldered it and covered with friction tape.
That sounds old school and ugly and most likely there is no Earth conductor involved LOL :-) :-) don't stick a fork in it or you will be done
@@kevinpoore5626 Sometimes there is a thin ground wire to the back of the box.
Yeah if that's what you want to call that but sometimes very rare and if it is there it's so short it does no good lol :-) :-)
@@kevinpoore5626 It can possibly clear a ground fault if the hot wire in the metal box happens to become exposed and touches the box. Better than nothing at all if the box is metal.
me too lol
he did it all with the power on ☺
When you put the cover plate on, you can see the green LED next to the "ON' label is illuminated (you can see it better at 16:38). Why is it on already? Was the power not turned off, or does this device have a battery-backup to maintain the setting if the power goes out?
Power was definitely on. At 13:03 he hits the switch and the light comes on momentarily.
We don't find separate fan switches very often over this side of the Atlantic, usually only very old or very poorly retro-fitted installations. More common is having the fan on the light-switch with a delay timer cut-off. Switch the light on, the fan comes on. Switch the light off and the fan stays on for anything from 5 up to 30 minutes afterwards.
The good parts are that the fans always come on when the bathroom is in use (unless you do your business in the dark) and there's no permanently on option.
The bad part is that this does no good if the kid also leaves the light on all the time!
I have the same issues with my daughters. I like this idea but will this timer work with a fan with a single bulb heat lamp combo?
I have a Panasonic FV-0511VQ1. Have you ever had issues with these timers not work with certain bath fans? I see the bath fan slowly startup and then shut off on its own before the timer expires. Changing the timer to the always on setting does not remedy the situation. Thanks.
In fairness, there are times.... like when you eat *White Castle* for example... that you do *_need_* to leave that bathroom fan running for *8 to 10 hours* (12 hours if that burger had cheese). Commenting for a friend.
If you loose power does the switch default back to on? Kick the breaker off wait and min and kick it back on. Wondering if you will have to re-program after.
Good to know this model of timer exists that doesn't require a neutral wire. Thanks.
LEARNED A LOT MAN GREAT INSTRUCTION FOR A HOME OWNER
Random question I have 3 different porch lights in 3 different places around the perimeter of the house is it possble to connect all 3 porch lights to 1 timer or does each 1 need a seperate timer switch??
When was your house built our house was built in 1996 and they never connected ground wires to the light switches
I am new to your channel and I am learning as much as I can on switches and such and learning from others(like yourself), I was curious why you use regular twist connectors and not Wago connectors?
"Judge away, fuck off". Too funny.... lol
Or change out the fan with one of those humidity-sensing ones. Ours was super old and noisy and barely moved air anyways. Replaced with a model that was quieter, higher CFM, Auto on with humidity (showering) and can manually trigger it on for 15 min with flicking it on-off-on quickly. Also was FORCED to do this since the switch controls the bathroom wall light as well, no extra switch leg in the box for just the fan. Yay old homes.
Even better than a timer is a humidity sensor switch. Leviton makes one (PN IPHS5-742-0LW) which works well. Simplifies use by removing an actual duration selection (thereby removing the decision from my kids), but allows manual turning on with a single button, or automatic turning on of fan when humidity rises (no longer need to yell at my kids to turn on the fan when they take a shower!). I've replaced all my digital timer switches with the humidity sensing switch, which should just be a code requirement because of its benefits.
Hey great video but get yourself a voltclaw to push those wires back into the box. Also to get the plate lined up and level stick it on backwards and put a level on it. Finally turn off the power unless you like buying $30 timers that blow up when you push them in.(I usually tape up the timer it it has exposed screws)
"Turn the power back on" me like the power was on the whole time lol
🤣🤣
Exactly!! You can turn it off ?? Lol
Great video! I have two questions out of curiosity: 1. Can you give me a ballpark estimate what an electrician would charge to do something like this? 2. What does it mean that the wattage rating will go down if you need to clip those tabs off...is that a safety concern? Thanks!
Can you still turn the vents when the light switch it’s Off or when the dimmer it’s at low or half way?
My Fan doesn’t come on until my light switch dimmer is at high or at On position.
Is there a bathroom timer like this with a remote switch? Re 1 central fan pulling from 2 locations. Ty
@8:05 that was butter Marine!
Ayyyy! Appreciate you making this Dustin! You're the best
Great video.. I was just telling the wife to start turning off the fan!!
Mine always left the garage lights on because the washer/dryer were in there. Annoyed the shit out of me, so I put an occupancy sensor in there...problem solved.
This is exactly my problem. 👏👏👏👏
Thanks for the vid. Like the comment about the tabs you broke off. Would've liked a mention about what happens, what do it mean... great vid over all 👍 👍 thank you.
What's the deal with the intermittent timed exhaust fans I'm seeing in some new houses?
Do you have a video on how to get started as a electrician? This is something I want to get into but I just don’t know where to go
Look through his channel, generally for most places you must be licensed to do commercial and industrial, but you may work under someone for residential, call around to your local chain and individual residential electrician services and ask if they could use help and are willing to train. It’s usually that easy and since it’s a construction job for the most part unless you do service calls, you may not even need to do an application. Good luck.
I do, check out my other channel Journey 2 Master - there's a ton of perspective type videos that I top about topics like that
I’m new too, I went the trade school route and just finished last month. I just started calling a bunch of companies in my area after I graduated and I start next week
Good job Dustin I liked this and I think you’ve improved since the boot review
What’s the difference between these timer switches vs the Intermatic timer switches? Can they both be used for pools ?
Good job Brad 👏 👍 👌
Why do U have 20 amp breaker but you have 14 2 wire
I thought you use 15 amp break for 14 gauge
I think that was stock footage meant to highlight shutting off the breaker first. But, you’re right about the 20amp/12ga relationship.
@@boogermeats Good point! Was wondering the same thing. I think Battle is right about the footage highlighting the shutoff.
Yes if you watch at 13:00 you realize the power is actually still on.
15 min is fine to destink the room!
Interesting about the heat sink on the switch.
Speaking of heat, I just learned that there is code for thermal expansion of pvc conduit and an expansion coupling to handle this.
Made me think of the wire in the conduit.
I'm running 1 1/2 PVC 90 feet to a subpannel. Using 2-2-2-4 aluminum wire. The PVC will expand and contract about 3" in a 100degree temp change. What about the wire?
Can't find anything on this, but it will expand with the temperature changes.
Would it be a good idea to put a pull box in the middle and loop the wire in a circle to make room for the expansion and contraction?
Also, a video on different types of wire would be cool. I learned a lot looking for what type of wire to use for this.
I have a bathroom fan controlled by 2 x 3 way switches. One in the bathroom and the other on the lower floor to use the same fan as an exhaust for kitchen fumes. (Open concept floor). How do I install a timer in the bathroom? Cannot find a 3 way timer switch.
Is this good to auto off for a room Air Condition unit?
I feel this in my soul, thank you for the solution
I've got a Klein tracer that works well but, the thing is too thick to insert it into an outlet. What's up with that?
Great tutorial!
Looks like this is my next home project
Thank you for the upload
I did it for you my dude
Great video. Not only educational but also fun to watch. One question: is there supposed to be a neutral line? Or is that optional?
Thanks for watching! Depends on if the equipment requires a neutral. (More often than not it does require one.)
So, since you mention DIY, I do electrical work professionally, but in RVs. I am wanting to become a certified/licensed electrician. The catch, I’ve recently gone into business for/with myself, and don’t have time for an apprenticeship. Do you know any way to get certified/licensed without an apprenticeship? I will only be doing electrical work the pertains to RVs, such as hooking up 50 amp service plugs at peoples homes for their RV.
Very interesting, so so much different than what I’m used to !
Nice work bro
Thank you, my exact setup to replace.
I love it. Thanks.
I installed this very switch and it just flashed. Instructions noted the load is either to small or to big. Is there another timer switch that might work.
"no bare copper passing the back of the device." I can hear the old mans voice now lmao
I have a question. Are 10ka 120 or 240 volt circuit breakers ok in residential installations? Thank you.
@@boogermeats ok thank you.
Do you know of a timer switch that gives you the option of constant power (no timer) as well as timed? My wife likes to run the fan as a white noise sound while going to sleep and needs to run for a long period of time.
You can use it manually as well as timed
Changing mine out this weekend Wife leaves it on all the time...
Hey Justine would you. Explain. tell us if someone wants to be an electrician what is the first step. Or just say an electrician helper. Do you want a diploma? We need a video for that subject pls big man thank very much
In residential, how many 14/2 can fit through a 3/4” hole in joist? I understand the hole is not allow to > than 1/3 of the size of the joist and stay 2” away from the sides. Please help
Hole has to be 1 1/4" from the edge. We run no more than 3 14-2 through a 7/8"s hole if the circuit is on an arc fault breaker and up to 5 14-2 on a standard breaker.
Thank you and god’s blessings u
Did you figure that circuit for a constant load?
where did you get that shelving cube from start of video?
Don't be a dope like me. When I had my bathroom remodeled I went to a.large supply house who told.me on the phone that they stock 2 different batroom fans with moisture senser to turn fan on. When I got there of course they were.out if stock and carpenter was sheet rocking ceiling & walls next morning so I had to purchase a regular ceiling fan but with a night & regular light. Turned power.off the next night and wired in a 10 20 30 &.60 second timer. Turned power back on and fan did not work. Of course as a sparky with over 40 years in the trade I don' t need to tead instructions. Pulled timer.out of wall to check that I had power. Da never moved very little slide switch to on position. Thanks for another informative vid.
Right on! It’s your home. No one has any right to ridicule you on this website👍🏻😉.
Best music ever
Love these vids. Thanks!
Do you know what a window cut is? U dont need a knife and it actually can make hooking up boxes alot faster cause it allows you to premake double gang outlets
Thanks for the video, very helpful =)
If power is off at the braker, why is the ON led flashing?
Can I add a timer if there are 3 switches controlling one fan?
"judge away, fuck off" lololololololol
Are you experiencing access issues on your website? Cannot log in to the practice exam I bought late December. Also, I am unable to reach out to you through your regular contact methods for assistance.
"A clean freak" 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Plus the switches that were added after our house was built were all grounded
I was diggin the porn music while you were rewiring that box.
Good ole Lutron
How can you tell incoming from out going to the load?
An average bathroom fan runs at ~20W, or .02 kW. In Colorado we pay $0.13 per kW-hr so it costs $0.0026 per hour. Say you let the fan just run an hour each day and eventually get around to turning it off - just like most of us do. That's less than $1 per year. Can you guess how long it takes to offset the cost of this $30 switch? And a lot of people will pay a contractor to do this. What's your hourly rate? Add that to the $30. Now you probably have more than 1 bathroom so multiply that $30 by that number. This switch is as useless as an electric pencil sharpener.
Awesome video!
Thank you!
My bathroom fan is on two three-way switches five feet from each other. WTF were they thinking. There are also two doors to the room.
How do I wire a timer switch to this mess.
Um...Copper Clad Aluminum isn't "dipped" in copper...LOL... it's metallurgically bonded from AA8000 Aluminium and a copper veneer. In fact, that bond has to take place prior to being drawn into appropriate conductor sizing. Now, back in the time you are speaking the issue was AA 1350 Alumimum and it was more an issue with the terminations rather than the AA 1350 Aluminum. It was all about the terminations and the expansion and contraction differences of the terminals and the aluminum, less ductile AA 1350. Just for some additional information of course. Now turn off the exhaust fans JOSH.
My wife's the same way looks like I have 3 fans to do thanks for the class...
This bright too u by Milwaukee lol