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Silverado CV Axle Woes
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- Опубликовано: 8 мар 2023
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**that was supposed to be "drooped" not "droofed" 🤣
good mechanic would have seen it the first time and should have just replaced the boot instead of whole shaft.
@@benhuffington8482 good luck with that. It's cheaper on labor to just do the whole shaft and it's a part that can easily be guaranteed and is easy to warranty. It wasn't very expensive anyways. This is a for-profit business and we act accordingly. If you want the cheaper fix you do it yourself and there is nothing wrong with that. Nobody replaces boots anymore anyways. This is a throwaway society. I didn't write the rules.
@@TechnicianRed facts
The fact that you admitted it was an oversight on your part speaks volumes about you. Honest work!
And it's going to keep breaking until you bring those shaft angles down 😂 you need the drop kit on the front diff
Wrong. Dropping the front differential will only make this problem worse as the boots will be even closer to the lower control arm. The best solution is to limit the down-travel as it not only causes the boots to barely rub, it also binds the axle shafts which can destroy the axle or differential. The drop kit will solve the axle binding problem, but will worsen the boot clearance problem. Best solution: SAS if you absolutely want to lift your IFS truck.
@@TechnicianRed The best solution would be installing longer axles. AT4 and Trail Boss come with longer axles even with just the 2” lift.
@@TechnicianRed I think for the money they spent they could have gotten a trailboss and have a lift already lol
@@mauricemotors8207 A 2inch level is perfectly fine, If installed correctly. However, You would be much better off with something like Rough Country coil over shocks, and a a loaded strut 2inch lift.
The reason the boot gets pinched is because of how the lower control arm is now sitting. Stock height that control arm is relatively level. It looks like this lift kit was done by installing a 4" spacer on top of the spring. Now that control arm is sitting at let's say a 15 degree angle. The distance between the CV boot and control arm is now nothing. Dropping the diff, or longer axles will not change that cv boot clearance issue. The only way to cure this is to lower the control arm mount at the frame. It needs that control arm to sit relatively flat like it did at factory height. Any decent IFS lift kit will come with drop brackets for the control arm mounts. Without that drop the CV boot will always be an issue. A decent ,well engineered lift kit when installed properly will work flawlessly. I've done dozens of IFS lifts with zero issues. Like someone else stated, if you want a big lift to run 40 inch or bigger tires, ditch the IFS all together and do a SAS. You gotta remember, that IFS was designed for comfort. Do a SAS with leaf springs is the cheapest and easiest. A 4 link with coil over shocks will give you the best articulation. IMO, that's the best and only way to go.
That ball joint and UCA are screaming for their lives right about now.
I have a Rough Country 6” lift on mine and I have over an inch of clearance between the boot and the arm. Plenty of space. Excellent lift. Ran a 6” RC lift on a Silverado for 16 years without a single issue.
That's the readylift way
I was going to get a Readylift 9” lift kit, CustomOffsets made 2 entirely dedicated (sponsored) videos about that exact kit saying how great it is blah blah blah. Is ReadyLift known for this type of crap?
The additional angle doesn't help to transfer torque, either. Why do people do this to their vehicles?
You are correct. Leveling kits and lift kits that don't drop the front diff are ALLWAYS a bad idea on IFS 4x4s.
Because it's cheap. Proper IFS lifts are expensive. The type of guys who buy these have zero clue. They just want more lift than their equally ignorant buddy.
@Technician Red learned this the hard way. Added a 3" body lift on my 97 Nissan Pathfinder. My CV shafts hate it. Luckily, it doesn't rub like this, but they are definitely working harder.
One day, like 5 years from now, I'm planning on doing a sub frame drop on it to fix those issues. Or just get a 4runner... but I got the Pathfinder for pretty nothing...
BIGGER NUMBAH BETTAHHHH WRAOOGHHH
That’s why
@@mtnorgarda body lift doesn't affect CV angles tf
I had the same thing happen. I had chevy install eibach adjustable leveling strut and coil spring kit. Both boots were cracked and leaking afterward. They took care of it. I just had to wait for the parts
Well, when I worked as a mechanic technician, the first thing we were taught is to look for the reason why that part went bad that’s where you made your mistake you didn’t do your investigation on why the part went bad or what the problem really was so you probably got stuck eating that Job
Keep it as the manufacturer intended and you won’t have there problems😂😂😂
Well what’s the fun in that?
@@joshblubaugh6050 The fun is driving a vehicle that isn't broken!
@@joshblubaugh6050the fun of not paying the repair costs!
It seems weird that when you were done you didn't see how close it was. I mean it's touching!
Oh I saw that immediately. Not uncommon on lifted trucks when the suspension is drooped. When it is sitting on the ground the boots have plenty of clearance. CV axle boot damage will be the least of your worries anyways because at full droop the CV axles lock up 100% which can cause your CV axles or front differential to grenade if the tires keep spinning.
Not A GM issue. Aftermarket modified is the cause.
obviously rtard
“Lift kit” LOL😂 yeah, get what you pay for
Lift kits are like paying an entry fee, for the chance to spend twice as much on suspension work, three times as often.
If you don’t do them right or buy shitty parts.
@@connor4961 bro, _IT DOES NOT MATTER !_ They all allow bigger tires, and change the geometry of the suspension, thus accelerating wear on steering components, wheel bearings, and especially CV axles in 1/2 tons / all modern GM trucks. Bigger tires wear brakes out faster and increase duty cycle on transmissions, as 99% of morons don't regear. 30 years in the industry, several of them at ORI and a transmission / driveline specialty shop, these are facts, plain and simple. The amount of morons complaining that their 15 mpg truck now gets 10 mpg after a 6 inch lift and 35's has made me laugh my ass off, dozens, if not hundreds of times as well, like *NO SHIT* !
@@jamesgeorge4874 I’m not disagreeing with you, but You did exaggerate how much a lift actually wears the front end. It’s not like you’re going to be replacing front end parts every 50,000 miles, more like every 150,000 miles.
"A 4" lift fucked my truck up!" Amazing. Maybe don't do that.
I love my straight axels
Once you straighten out that issue do a boot stretch on the outer boot they will last a lot longer because the bellows will not be rubbing together constantly that ends up killing boots prematurely
I think those cv's will be smoked in no time with an angle like that.
Shoulda done a porta-axle swap, if going for clearance. Lifted IFS is bad on the axles and reduces torque getting to the wheels. And a solid axle swap will get you higher, but defeats lifting the truck as the diff will be your low point. Porta-axles will give you torque multiplication, strong axles, and all the clearance in the world.
Diff drop is provided on rough country kits. Don't understand how the "cheap" one has it but that spendy one dont. People hate on rough country but those guys really know what's goin on
Seems like someones eye balls failed to notice the rub aka the owner lmao
well buddy the first time was the customers fault and the second time was your fault I surely hope you are an honest tech and didn't charge the customer twice
Now take to the Dealer for warranty repair 😅
The problem is that lift is causing hardcore angle at that cv shaft. Its at full full. Recommend not doing lift to stupid IFS. keep her stock if you don't want problems
Good job, thanks for sharing 😃
This happened to my stock 2020 gmc😮
Modern problems require modern solutions
I see trucks lifted (after market) all over Chicago these days. Seems to be a new dck compensation trend. Glad I'm not paying to push those big ol tires around the city streets.
I had a two wheel drive truck and put big mud tires on there and then released that I won't even be going off-road so I took them off and put 20" wheels and street tires. Now I have a four wheel drive truck with a body lift ( I bought it like that) with big 35s off-road tires. I actually go off-road quite often now.
My point is, is that I only customize my truck if I see it necessary for what I'm going to use it for. I can't stand those big lifted pavement princesses.
Lift it or leave it alone... Leveling kits wear out everything
HAY SUPPER TECH YOU DONT LOOK AT YOUR WORK WHEN YOU'RE DONE MM. GM TECHNICIAN 😎✌
So this is a good question of who is responsible for the damages to the second axel? I could see the lift kit being the root cause vs the mechanics inexperience with the lift kit.
If it ain't a straight axle it ain't shitt.. .
Wish GM made solid axle 1500s like in the 80s
@@robcrossan6274 nope. IFS are best for 90% of their posh customers. Solid axle 1500s are great for offroad, but terrible for ride quality.
Death wobble, no thanks.
@@johnvang1592 That's the problem with trucks these days, they are made for people who don't need a truck!
@@phillhuddleston9445Well, if they’re paying the OEMs will gladly sell
How did you install that cv and not see that?
That ReadyLift has been on there for months look at the dirt bro come on!
Need them extended cv’s.
And thats why you don't mess with your shit.
so you and the guy installing lift are dingleberries?
That’s why god made solid axels not mini van cvs on “trucks”
If he is installing his own lift kit why is he paying you to install axles? This story doesn't make sense!
Because he was tired of messing with it
That’s what happen when you think you are a home made engineer. Leave it the way it was intended to be.
Putting on a lift kit is an art. Most idiots slap on the cheapest thing possible and call it a day. For this particular situation, the owner needs new lower control arms, sway links, longer tie rods, and steering braces.
I had two boots tears within a month of lifting my truck. I've just been putting grease in them every few hundred miles. I cannot be bothered to buy a new CV axle for something like a torn boot.
so why not just buy a new boot?
@carbonscale laziness I suppose. You'd be doing all the work of replacing the CV even for a new boot.
@@MF-rw3rb but its so much cheaper
@carbonscale it's definitely a good idea if you have the time and energy. But greasing them buys you time.
What happen is- you didn't pay attention to the first Shaft and catch the problem then, so you cost a customer another shaft-thats the problem
Another reason I’ll never own a truck with IFS. 👍🏻
I prefer IFS ONLY if you don't level it or lift it. Smoother ride (less unsprung weight), no chance of death wobble, cheaper to maintain/repair (most of the time), and alignment is not only easier to adjust- caster is no longer limited by pinion angle as it doesn't affect pinion angle (huge advantage).
Pole jack under lower solves that .
That's why you leave it factory!
So you didn't check thew clearance then!
If the cv boot is damaged i replace cv boot, not entire driveshaft 😉
Friends don't let friends drive Chevys
That's why you don't lift elcaminos. Chevy hasn't built a truck since mid 80s. Car front suspension and a pickup box yep that's an elcamino
I'm amazed that it seems to be SOP to replace the whole shaft, rather than just the boot. Why? Because it's awkward?
No money in it.takes longer,warranty.those are the reasons
Its honestly more labor to replace the boot on these new trucks versus yanking the whole shaft. The clamps that hold the boots on require a special tool, or to be cut to be removed and the new clamps in the boot kit require another special tool to crimp the new clamps onto the new boot and shaft. Pain in the ass all around tbh. So its not really a rip off for the customer in the end, also if all that grease got slung out that constant velocity joint could also possibly have been damaged or stressed too, unlikely but not impossible. So probably best to just replace the whole piece.
Heres what happened. That was actually the third torn rubber in this story.
2ND ONE WAS ON YOU DUDE!
OH NOOOOOOO!
Full new axle just because of the boot...
Any shop should not put any warranty on work done to driveline and suspension on anything that has a 'lift kit'. If the Pumpkin(s) don't get any higher off the ground all you are doing is making the vehicle more difficult to get into and wearing our shit faster for being at the wrong angle.
Wow
I bet the second repair that was unbillable, got just a boot lol
Nope warrantied the axle shaft
@@TechnicianRed Warrantied because of shitty lift kit?
@@5.43v yep! You expect me to eat the part? There's a reason that part is marked up from everybody who sells it to the next guy. To cover warranty is one of those reasons. We buy enough from GM I'm sure their quarterly earnings will recover.
Ever noticed that Chevys only have problems when the owners do something dumb like modified parts.
I hope I paint the instillation on the 3rd u messed up the 2nd How come u didn’t spot the mistake when fitting second boot ! Interesting…….
Mistake number one: Using a Readylift system.😂
I don't get those lift kits 😕
Helluva story
So what am supposed to do?
You what that means? It means that you nor the customer knows what you are doing.
That's why we leave them stock
Why not just leave the suspension as is?
Uh stock arm and axle with a 4" lift 😂
?Camber🤔 suspension drooft😅
That control arm angle is horrendous
Don't you have to change the length of the axles when lifting or lowering a truck? Noob question
Most of the time no. Some of the really tall IFS lifts come with axle spacers that bolt onto the CV axle drive flanges. But most of the time the differential is dropped far enough down on the bigger lifts to maintain a close-to-stock axle alignment which allows the stock axles to be used without spacers.
you seriously changed the whole thing just because the boot? wow
New boot goofin'
Shouldn’t be that close in the first place. Engineers suck sometimes. Needs to have enough clearance for small rocks and mud.
Why knock on a tech for doing it when you did the same. Should have known that lift had something to do with it……. Always does
Ford did this twice on my F150 before they got it right. Sucked I had to take it back and leave it multiple times, but I didn't pay anything.
Probably wears lifts in his shoes too
I guess u didn't realize this the first time u put a brand new boot?? Cuz u should've seen if u put it on that it was going to destroy that new boot I hope u customer isn't repaying for ur mistakes
New kids gotta be different... What next? Probably keeping it all original
Bah! Details... 😂
Shit...always something
As a machanic you should of seen this
I will call you for advice next time 👍
Did you not inspect gor a reason as to why the boot broke? Jesus
Probably should drop the dif at 4in.
So don’t buy cheap lifts….. got it
Take a grinder to it
I bet you still charged them, to fix your mistake.
So replace whole shaft when you can do a boot?
New CV instead of new boot? LOL
Right? Some mechanics are lazy/rip offs/don't want to get dirty. He'll probably just replace the boot now it's out of his pocket.
If grease has left cv boot I'm not going to be blamed for a bad cv later on.its just warranty stuff not being lazy.
Its honestly more labor to replace the boot on these new trucks versus yanking the whole shaft. The clamps that hold the boots on require a special tool, or to be cut to be removed and the new clamps in the boot kit require another special tool to crimp the new clamps onto the new boot and shaft. Pain in the ass all around tbh. So its not really a rip off for the customer in the end, also if all that grease got slung out that constant velocity joint could also possibly have been damaged or stressed too, unlikely but not impossible. So probably best to just replace the whole piece.
So you blame the customer than make the same mistake yourself. Why not just say that green bean
Fix it much as you want, it’s going to keep happening. Way to much angle. And why you ripping off customer, replace the cv boot and install heavy duty clamps. But customer needs buy a diff drop to decrease the angle of the cv axels
As far as i can tell that’s probably Readylifts SST Kit, which already comes with a differential drop spacer as part of the lift kit.
Why not just replace the boot
That's why we need to go back to straight axels again
Need spacers
Chvy owner doesn’t work in construction or hard labor 😂
That is a horribly designed lift kit
Good to know!
Here's my 05 2x4 Suburban's no tools front hub removal ruclips.net/user/shortsFmzK9odnD6E?
I can't believe you didn't notice the clearance problem in the first place and I really can't believe as a mechanic that you didn't look for the reason why the boot was torn in the first place. 🤦♂️
You both did the same thing :) Thats a annoying thing to have happen too..
So tighten axle first..huh
You replaced an entire axle instead of just replacing the boot.. ? Your an expensive mechanic
Who needs directions?
😂😂 not sure the the centrifical force. I know what the centrifugal force or the centripetal force is. I guess he’s mashed them together
If you lift it lift it right