Pfocus B is a cheaper variant of this (the print files are paid but the WA adapter in use is much cheaper). If money is a big issue, this could also be a solution
@@Henchproductions in theory, yes. Never did so much sanding in my life LOL. Buy maybe not enough. One thing i did not do and am now considering is using grease like Tito.
@@Henchproductions in theory, yes. Never did so much sanding in my life LOL. Buy maybe not enough. One thing i did not do and am now considering is using grease like Tito.
@@mmixo because this video is members only I share my secret to know when it's sanded enough with you. First I use the tip of my finger and feel it, and usually that is not "fine" enough and it still rattles a bit. The best organ to check smoothness is you tongue. But make sure that a) you clean before you check (not that this happened to me and I had plastic-dust in my mouth) and b) that no one sees you (I love alone, thank god)
that lens element is crazy expensive for a wide converter. $585-2,037 on ebay. for a wide converter... which are usually not great pieces of glass, i don't know about this, maybe that's why the price...
Damn, is there any way Lucas can attempt the same mod with more commonly found Century Optics wide adapters made in Germany too, actually I think? Alternately, will any Fujinon 0.8 wide-angle converter lens work?
@ImhotepTheGameLION so, let me paint you a picture with words. The only reason the Pfocus exists is because fellow anamorphic shooter Tim Linssen bought two of these Fujinon WA adapters, with the means to rehouse it to a focusser. After I started fiddling with 3D printing and fixing tiny issues here and there, he approached me if I was interested in the challenge. It took some time till I said yes, because I couldn't wrap my head around how to easily make a helicoid. Starting this project I realized very soon that this is indeed no easy project. I recall the moment where I went into my local home improvement store, saw the domed nuts and had this very proud "HEUREKA" moment; at first I used printed feet cylinders which sucked badly. It fixed a lot of issues as well, as I could make the helicoid round instead of using edges, which allowed for printing without support. Anyway, while I got on quite fast with it, from start to finish it took some serious time (also writing that manual). As a "thank you", Tim let me keep the glass and I printed an enclosure for him, so we both got something out of it. Now, a dream of mine is to have a DIY solution with readily available parts. Of course not FVD or HCDNA quality, but maybe Rangefinder quality. Or even Pfocus 1.0 quality, if that means that it's a straight forward off-the-shelf thing. The sad truth is, even though the Century Optics converters to pop up here and there, it is still based on luck to get one, or get one for a good price. And if I ever made a project like this again, I don't want it to be only accessible to the few lucky people who got a Fujinon, but to everyone and their dog. This is the first issue with Century. The 2nd is, which version? There are SO many. I actually own two Century Optics converters, one that doesn't work at all and a 0.6x one that I think would be a waste to work on (too wide). For example, there are two 0.8x Centurys I see on eBay at the moment. One for roughly 100€ (shipped), one for 300€ shipped. When I search for the 0.75x version (widest I would do), the prices are in the same ballpark. And while I love the tinkering, a say 150€ investment plus all the time it takes to design, print, re-design and document it only that a few who may already have this thing can gain from it is not really attractive in my opinion. Plus, what if it's a converter with three or four elements? That brings quite some headache into the construction, because I'd first need to find out how the relation of the elements must change for a better performance. I thought about trying a Raynox converter, because these are widely available still. But then we talk about a ~290€ investment, and then you can already get a Rangefinder or better save up for an FVD. The latter question, if any Fujinon works, I can't tell. There's a JVC with the same name that will, though.
We can make this a drinking game, always taking a shot when Tito says "THESE NUTS"
YOU AND BLAKE WITH THE NUTS JOKES!
Lol
Could've used this video years ago, but better late than never I guess. Great work tito
This video was made for members years ago. Now memberships are done and these exclusive videos are going out for everyone. ;)
@@AnamorphicOnABudget ah I see. Thanks again tito!
Gosh that lens price will skyrocket. But so much value in this video. This is the real solution to the budget!
when i just clicked the link, the first one was showing over $800, cheapest is $350
@@theBaron001 Same in my case. Sad I though this solution was gonna be on a budget. Maybe on a cinema budget hahaha.
It's like you read my mind. I was just yesterday trying to find the cheapest single focus variable diopter solutions!
Pfocus B is a cheaper variant of this (the print files are paid but the WA adapter in use is much cheaper). If money is a big issue, this could also be a solution
@@LucasPfaff thanks, that sounds ideal!!
Love the pfocus
Great! I just assembled mine. The focusing is not smooth, but it works. Lucas, thanks for the great work! Tito, você é foda, companheiro 🍀
Did you sand the guides in the helicoid enough?.
@@Henchproductions in theory, yes. Never did so much sanding in my life LOL. Buy maybe not enough. One thing i did not do and am now considering is using grease like Tito.
@@Henchproductions in theory, yes. Never did so much sanding in my life LOL. Buy maybe not enough. One thing i did not do and am now considering is using grease like Tito.
@@mmixo because this video is members only I share my secret to know when it's sanded enough with you. First I use the tip of my finger and feel it, and usually that is not "fine" enough and it still rattles a bit. The best organ to check smoothness is you tongue. But make sure that a) you clean before you check (not that this happened to me and I had plastic-dust in my mouth) and b) that no one sees you (I love alone, thank god)
@@LucasPfaff that's the best tip LOL
awesome video tito
Also, Tito has the fastest growing hair on RUclips.
Hey Tito! Will you be reviewing the Blazar Remus set? I’d love to hear your thoughts!
Yes I will! Stay tuned! :)
Long live Anamorphic On A Budget
that lens element is crazy expensive for a wide converter. $585-2,037 on ebay. for a wide converter... which are usually not great pieces of glass, i don't know about this, maybe that's why the price...
Damn, is there any way Lucas can attempt the same mod with more commonly found Century Optics wide adapters made in Germany too, actually I think?
Alternately, will any Fujinon 0.8 wide-angle converter lens work?
I don't think even Lucas can answer that question! :(
@ImhotepTheGameLION so, let me paint you a picture with words.
The only reason the Pfocus exists is because fellow anamorphic shooter Tim Linssen bought two of these Fujinon WA adapters, with the means to rehouse it to a focusser. After I started fiddling with 3D printing and fixing tiny issues here and there, he approached me if I was interested in the challenge. It took some time till I said yes, because I couldn't wrap my head around how to easily make a helicoid. Starting this project I realized very soon that this is indeed no easy project. I recall the moment where I went into my local home improvement store, saw the domed nuts and had this very proud "HEUREKA" moment; at first I used printed feet cylinders which sucked badly. It fixed a lot of issues as well, as I could make the helicoid round instead of using edges, which allowed for printing without support. Anyway, while I got on quite fast with it, from start to finish it took some serious time (also writing that manual). As a "thank you", Tim let me keep the glass and I printed an enclosure for him, so we both got something out of it.
Now, a dream of mine is to have a DIY solution with readily available parts. Of course not FVD or HCDNA quality, but maybe Rangefinder quality. Or even Pfocus 1.0 quality, if that means that it's a straight forward off-the-shelf thing. The sad truth is, even though the Century Optics converters to pop up here and there, it is still based on luck to get one, or get one for a good price. And if I ever made a project like this again, I don't want it to be only accessible to the few lucky people who got a Fujinon, but to everyone and their dog.
This is the first issue with Century. The 2nd is, which version? There are SO many. I actually own two Century Optics converters, one that doesn't work at all and a 0.6x one that I think would be a waste to work on (too wide). For example, there are two 0.8x Centurys I see on eBay at the moment. One for roughly 100€ (shipped), one for 300€ shipped. When I search for the 0.75x version (widest I would do), the prices are in the same ballpark. And while I love the tinkering, a say 150€ investment plus all the time it takes to design, print, re-design and document it only that a few who may already have this thing can gain from it is not really attractive in my opinion.
Plus, what if it's a converter with three or four elements? That brings quite some headache into the construction, because I'd first need to find out how the relation of the elements must change for a better performance. I thought about trying a Raynox converter, because these are widely available still. But then we talk about a ~290€ investment, and then you can already get a Rangefinder or better save up for an FVD.
The latter question, if any Fujinon works, I can't tell. There's a JVC with the same name that will, though.
also, Century Optics was american and got acquired by Schneider Kreuznach in 2000. I don't know where the WAs came from, though
Where can people watch the film projects you have DP’d or done BTS footage on?
Most of it shows up on this channel in one way or another. Bucketheads is one of my favorites for BTS work. :)