I have the same issues, works ok for 1/10 rears but is not good for 2WD/4WD fronts. I’m actually using acetone to remove quite a few mounted tyres done with this jig and will redo them by hand….I’d say it needs a clamping system (large diameter) or similar to hold the wheel flat while it turns.
Thanks for the comment! As I mentioned, it has been quite the adventure, and it won’t likely be the last update. Rears in general have given me good results, so the jig is not a total wash. If you run 8th scale, I totally encourage you to check out the link to Rajaa111’s video in the description, which shows that Jig in Use. The results of this attempt also led to some other conclusions which I will update the description with. The tires tested in this video were JConcepts Ellipse Greens, which is a pretty soft and “gummy” compound. I also have a set of Pro-Line Positron S3’s, which although pretty soft themselves, are a bit firmer than the JCon Greens. I also have the Ellipse in the Blue compound, so this is something I will keep experimenting with. It has become apparent with all the dry runs that the consistency of the compound could factor in as well, as even by manipulating the tire in my hands, it was pretty easy to unseat the bead from the groove.. In either case, stay tuned. This story may not be over quite yet.
Rediscovering RC how do you think it would do on 1/10 2.2/3.0 short course tires & wheels? I do run 1/8 buggy and bashers so i will definitely checkout video you recommended . Great knowledge here , appreciate you sharing
norcalrc TBH, that is a good question. Raceform currently offers a Lazer Jig for SCT that also includes an 1/8th buggy conversion. As SCT wheels have different diameter beads between their inner and outer faces, It basically allows the center post to move over a bit. I happen to like the use of the small disc with a bearing, which would eliminate the issue I have with the 1/10th nut. I think that the SCT wheel is wide enough that this wouldn’t be a problem, but without trying it for myself, I wouldn’t be able to tell you for sure. One interesting feature is that they also include a sleeve that slides over the 4mm threaded post to slide 1/8th scale wheels on. Change the spacing on the post and roller, and you should have a 1/8th jig as well. Again, I can’t say how this would perform vs. the dedicated 1/8th jig, but here’s the link to Raceform’s product video, and you can judge for yourself: ruclips.net/video/qDIMObRKkl4/видео.html
Thank you for your neutral review. From what we see here, it would be best to reduce the disc stack, probably another 2R disc or more to make it work. As there are too many different compounds and tires, thus different configuration of stacked discs and we will record it down once it worked, so when we repeat the same tire and compound, the same configuration will work again. Main concept is that the disc stack height has to be right, then adjust the M3x8 grub screw to make it open more or less during gluing. Hope to see a success the next review! Do feel free to contact us directly if you still face any problem and we will do our best to get it work for everyone.
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I have the same issues, works ok for 1/10 rears but is not good for 2WD/4WD fronts. I’m actually using acetone to remove quite a few mounted tyres done with this jig and will redo them by hand….I’d say it needs a clamping system (large diameter) or similar to hold the wheel flat while it turns.
cool video, never seen the tire tool before. Sucks that it didn’t work for you
Thanks for the comment! As I mentioned, it has been quite the adventure, and it won’t likely be the last update. Rears in general have given me good results, so the jig is not a total wash. If you run 8th scale, I totally encourage you to check out the link to Rajaa111’s video in the description, which shows that Jig in Use. The results of this attempt also led to some other conclusions which I will update the description with.
The tires tested in this video were JConcepts Ellipse Greens, which is a pretty soft and “gummy” compound. I also have a set of Pro-Line Positron S3’s, which although pretty soft themselves, are a bit firmer than the JCon Greens. I also have the Ellipse in the Blue compound, so this is something I will keep experimenting with. It has become apparent with all the dry runs that the consistency of the compound could factor in as well, as even by manipulating the tire in my hands, it was pretty easy to unseat the bead from the groove.. In either case, stay tuned. This story may not be over quite yet.
Rediscovering RC how do you think it would do on 1/10 2.2/3.0 short course tires & wheels? I do run 1/8 buggy and bashers so i will definitely checkout video you recommended . Great knowledge here , appreciate you sharing
norcalrc TBH, that is a good question. Raceform currently offers a Lazer Jig for SCT that also includes an 1/8th buggy conversion. As SCT wheels have different diameter beads between their inner and outer faces, It basically allows the center post to move over a bit. I happen to like the use of the small disc with a bearing, which would eliminate the issue I have with the 1/10th nut. I think that the SCT wheel is wide enough that this wouldn’t be a problem, but without trying it for myself, I wouldn’t be able to tell you for sure.
One interesting feature is that they also include a sleeve that slides over the 4mm threaded post to slide 1/8th scale wheels on. Change the spacing on the post and roller, and you should have a 1/8th jig as well. Again, I can’t say how this would perform vs. the dedicated 1/8th jig, but here’s the link to Raceform’s product video, and you can judge for yourself: ruclips.net/video/qDIMObRKkl4/видео.html
Rediscovering RC thx i will check it out
Thank you for your neutral review. From what we see here, it would be best to reduce the disc stack, probably another 2R disc or more to make it work. As there are too many different compounds and tires, thus different configuration of stacked discs and we will record it down once it worked, so when we repeat the same tire and compound, the same configuration will work again. Main concept is that the disc stack height has to be right, then adjust the M3x8 grub screw to make it open more or less during gluing. Hope to see a success the next review! Do feel free to contact us directly if you still face any problem and we will do our best to get it work for everyone.
Fail