How to make 2011-2014 Mustang 2ohm resistor (Drivers Seat Airbag Delete)
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- Опубликовано: 14 фев 2016
- This resistor mirrors the ohm resistance of the stock drivers seat airbag and is useful when installing aftermarket seats that do not have a side airbag installed.
The resistor itself goes plugged into the "yellow" pigtail on the wiring harness that is located underneath the seat itself.
Tested and proven to work on a 2011 & 2014 Mustang 5.0. Guaranteed. 
Авто/Мото
Make the resistor cap as shown in the video and just use that first with your original seat in to verify the cap was made properly. Then switch everything over to your new seat and if it doesn't work and the light comes on, you'll know it's not the cap you made that is causing the light to trip and it must be something else. I learned this the hard way. I have a 2011 Mustang GT and was putting my 2006 Roush Mustang seats in the 2011. The Roush seats didn't have seat airbags but the 2011 does. My Roush seats have the cap he is modifying in the video so I did the same thing. I removed the harness from the 2011 seat and put it in the Roush seat because the harness plug to the car was different for the seat but the yellow airbag plug is the same. I took the seat position sensor off the 2011 and put it onto the track of the Roush seat. The other 2 plugs on the bottom of the seats were the same plug. One goes to a little computer looking box for some airbag controller and the other plug goes to the seat sensor that reads the passengers weight which turns the passenger airbag off if not enough weight is read when the seatbelt is connected. Oh, and I swapped the seat belt latches because the plugs were different. Still had the airbag light on. I was pissed and assumed it was the resistor cap I made and thought it wasn't working but it ends up that it was working properly. I ended up swapping the whole underside frames of the seats so the Roush foam and leather is now on the bottom of the 2011 frame. That way I am using the same computer box sensor thing from the 2011. That part is riveted to the seat and it was easier to just swap the frame then to drill them out and use bolts or zip ties to swap over. Now it all works great. Before doing all that, I put my sock seat back in the car with stock wiring harness and hooked the seat airbag up as stock and the light went right out. No need to unplug the battery like I had previously tried multiple times. After I got the light back off with it back to stock, I unplugged the seat airbag and plugged in the resistor cap I made per this video. Light was still not on so I was positive the cap was working. Wish I would have done that first. So with the drivers seat, I made the cap and verified it worked with no light and then I switched everything over like I did on the passenger side and all is good. Figured I'd right this long comment to help you guys because I wish someone else would have. Just make sure you try the cap before you modify anything else to ensure the cap works. Hope this helps.
Thanks bro getting ready to put a set of 2010 GT leather seats into a 2011 GT but the driver side airbag was blown off in the driver seat and I can’t find one to replace it so I’m hoping this works.
I'm surprised that the aftermarket seat company or another company doesn't just make these and sell them so I don't have to do anything but plug the cap onto my wire. I appreciate your video bro. I now have a 2011 mustang that has airbags in the seat but I put in my Roush seats from my 06 mustang without airbag seats. The original 06 seats have that same cap that you modified. I was surprised that plugging the cap on my 2011 mustang didn't work and was hoping it was an ohm thing. Now I know exactly what to do. Thanks buddy. Hope it works.
Good tutorial. Thanks for posting.
I like that you started this off by saying "OK LADIES and Gentlemen".
I have read that before you do this you need to disconnect the battery. Then perform the resistor installation. Then reconnect the battery. I think I read it on a mustang forum somewhere.
Gregory Frech
Make the resistor cap as shown in the video and just use that first with your original seat in to verify the cap was made properly. Then switch everything over to your new seat and if it doesn't work and the light comes on, you'll know it's not the cap you made that is causing the light to trip and it must be something else. I learned this the hard way. I have a 2011 Mustang GT and was putting my 2006 Roush Mustang seats in the 2011. The Roush seats didn't have seat airbags but the 2011 does. My Roush seats have the cap he is modifying in the video so I did the same thing. I removed the harness from the 2011 seat and put it in the Roush seat because the harness plug to the car was different for the seat but the yellow airbag plug is the same. I took the seat position sensor off the 2011 and put it onto the track of the Roush seat. The other 2 plugs on the bottom of the seats were the same plug. One goes to a little computer looking box for some airbag controller and the other plug goes to the seat sensor that reads the passengers weight which turns the passenger airbag off if not enough weight is read when the seatbelt is connected. Oh, and I swapped the seat belt latches because the plugs were different. Still had the airbag light on. I was pissed and assumed it was the resistor cap I made and thought it wasn't working but it ends up that it was working properly. I ended up swapping the whole underside frames of the seats so the Roush foam and leather is now on the bottom of the 2011 frame. That way I am using the same computer box sensor thing from the 2011. That part is riveted to the seat and it was easier to just swap the frame then to drill them out and use bolts or zip ties to swap over. Now it all works great. Before doing all that, I put my sock seat back in the car with stock wiring harness and hooked the seat airbag up as stock and the light went right out. No need to unplug the battery like I had previously tried multiple times. After I got the light back off with it back to stock, I unplugged the seat airbag and plugged in the resistor cap I made per this video. Light was still not on so I was positive the cap was working. Wish I would have done that first. So with the drivers seat, I made the cap and verified it worked with no light and then I switched everything over like I did on the passenger side and all is good. Figured I'd right this long comment to help you guys because I wish someone else would have. Just make sure you try the cap before you modify anything else to ensure the cap works. Hope this helps.
What do u do if your seat Belt buckle has a plug ? My buckle has a white plug coming out of it and if it’s not plugged up then the airbag light comes on
Hi. I have read 2 ohms works for 11s. But someone else is telling me it has to be 2.2. always read 1.7-2.2 suffices. Do you know for sure?
What exact resistor is that? I’m trying to do the same thing in an 09. I have the factory cap (good through 07). Do you have a part number of Amazon link?
Hello i have the same issue. One resistor have Not enough Power. You have only 1/4 Watt. I Put 5x 10 ohms 1% metaloxid parallel and you have 2 ohms with 1,25 Watt and the Light goes Off.
wish there was one for a 2015...good info though
So my side airbag deployed, I'm fixing the car myself and don't want to have to buy a new inflator. I need to take it in to get inspected after it's fixed. Will they be able to tell I didn't put in a new inflator?
Good day, what about for the passenger side seat?
Same 2ohm for both driver and passenger side??
Today i try i 2.2 ohm 1% resistor. The airbaglight is off. After three days the light goes on. Can anybody Tell me what the Problem is?
Does this work for 2012 ford explorer?
Okay, so I do the resistor for the airbag, anything else I need to do with the other wires/sensors? What you are doing on the video, is that the only thing I need to do?
Lenard Ebihara
Make the resistor cap as shown in the video and just use that first with your original seat in to verify the cap was made properly. Then switch everything over to your new seat and if it doesn't work and the light comes on, you'll know it's not the cap you made that is causing the light to trip and it must be something else. I learned this the hard way. I have a 2011 Mustang GT and was putting my 2006 Roush Mustang seats in the 2011. The Roush seats didn't have seat airbags but the 2011 does. My Roush seats have the cap he is modifying in the video so I did the same thing. I removed the harness from the 2011 seat and put it in the Roush seat because the harness plug to the car was different for the seat but the yellow airbag plug is the same. I took the seat position sensor off the 2011 and put it onto the track of the Roush seat. The other 2 plugs on the bottom of the seats were the same plug. One goes to a little computer looking box for some airbag controller and the other plug goes to the seat sensor that reads the passengers weight which turns the passenger airbag off if not enough weight is read when the seatbelt is connected. Oh, and I swapped the seat belt latches because the plugs were different. Still had the airbag light on. I was pissed and assumed it was the resistor cap I made and thought it wasn't working but it ends up that it was working properly. I ended up swapping the whole underside frames of the seats so the Roush foam and leather is now on the bottom of the 2011 frame. That way I am using the same computer box sensor thing from the 2011. That part is riveted to the seat and it was easier to just swap the frame then to drill them out and use bolts or zip ties to swap over. Now it all works great. Before doing all that, I put my sock seat back in the car with stock wiring harness and hooked the seat airbag up as stock and the light went right out. No need to unplug the battery like I had previously tried multiple times. After I got the light back off with it back to stock, I unplugged the seat airbag and plugged in the resistor cap I made per this video. Light was still not on so I was positive the cap was working. Wish I would have done that first. So with the drivers seat, I made the cap and verified it worked with no light and then I switched everything over like I did on the passenger side and all is good. Figured I'd right this long comment to help you guys because I wish someone else would have. Just make sure you try the cap before you modify anything else to ensure the cap works. Hope this helps.
Can an ODB scan detect it?
Did not work, everything is plugged in and double and triple checked. I checked the resistance after install before plugging in, it showed 2.0 ohms. The bladder is installed in the passenger seat and all sensors are plugged in
Excellent video! One question. Which year is your car? Mine is a 2014. I made one myself. The resistance measures 2.2 ohms. Unfortunately, the airbag light stays on. I even tried to depower and repower the whole airbag system but the issue continues. Do you know what I might did wrong? Thanks!
When changing seats did you transfer over the position and seatbelt sensor?
Liqing Jiang
Make the resistor cap as shown in the video and just use that first with your original seat in to verify the cap was made properly. Then switch everything over to your new seat and if it doesn't work and the light comes on, you'll know it's not the cap you made that is causing the light to trip and it must be something else. I learned this the hard way. I have a 2011 Mustang GT and was putting my 2006 Roush Mustang seats in the 2011. The Roush seats didn't have seat airbags but the 2011 does. My Roush seats have the cap he is modifying in the video so I did the same thing. I removed the harness from the 2011 seat and put it in the Roush seat because the harness plug to the car was different for the seat but the yellow airbag plug is the same. I took the seat position sensor off the 2011 and put it onto the track of the Roush seat. The other 2 plugs on the bottom of the seats were the same plug. One goes to a little computer looking box for some airbag controller and the other plug goes to the seat sensor that reads the passengers weight which turns the passenger airbag off if not enough weight is read when the seatbelt is connected. Oh, and I swapped the seat belt latches because the plugs were different. Still had the airbag light on. I was pissed and assumed it was the resistor cap I made and thought it wasn't working but it ends up that it was working properly. I ended up swapping the whole underside frames of the seats so the Roush foam and leather is now on the bottom of the 2011 frame. That way I am using the same computer box sensor thing from the 2011. That part is riveted to the seat and it was easier to just swap the frame then to drill them out and use bolts or zip ties to swap over. Now it all works great. Before doing all that, I put my sock seat back in the car with stock wiring harness and hooked the seat airbag up as stock and the light went right out. No need to unplug the battery like I had previously tried multiple times. After I got the light back off with it back to stock, I unplugged the seat airbag and plugged in the resistor cap I made per this video. Light was still not on so I was positive the cap was working. Wish I would have done that first. So with the drivers seat, I made the cap and verified it worked with no light and then I switched everything over like I did on the passenger side and all is good. Figured I'd right this long comment to help you guys because I wish someone else would have. Just make sure you try the cap before you modify anything else to ensure the cap works. Hope this helps.
It didn't work for a 2011 Mustang. Tried to even do a car reset by unplugging the battery for a bit
Chad Krause
Make the resistor cap as shown in the video and just use that first with your original seat in to verify the cap was made properly. Then switch everything over to your new seat and if it doesn't work and the light comes on, you'll know it's not the cap you made that is causing the light to trip and it must be something else. I learned this the hard way. I have a 2011 Mustang GT and was putting my 2006 Roush Mustang seats in the 2011. The Roush seats didn't have seat airbags but the 2011 does. My Roush seats have the cap he is modifying in the video so I did the same thing. I removed the harness from the 2011 seat and put it in the Roush seat because the harness plug to the car was different for the seat but the yellow airbag plug is the same. I took the seat position sensor off the 2011 and put it onto the track of the Roush seat. The other 2 plugs on the bottom of the seats were the same plug. One goes to a little computer looking box for some airbag controller and the other plug goes to the seat sensor that reads the passengers weight which turns the passenger airbag off if not enough weight is read when the seatbelt is connected. Oh, and I swapped the seat belt latches because the plugs were different. Still had the airbag light on. I was pissed and assumed it was the resistor cap I made and thought it wasn't working but it ends up that it was working properly. I ended up swapping the whole underside frames of the seats so the Roush foam and leather is now on the bottom of the 2011 frame. That way I am using the same computer box sensor thing from the 2011. That part is riveted to the seat and it was easier to just swap the frame then to drill them out and use bolts or zip ties to swap over. Now it all works great. Before doing all that, I put my sock seat back in the car with stock wiring harness and hooked the seat airbag up as stock and the light went right out. No need to unplug the battery like I had previously tried multiple times. After I got the light back off with it back to stock, I unplugged the seat airbag and plugged in the resistor cap I made per this video. Light was still not on so I was positive the cap was working. Wish I would have done that first. So with the drivers seat, I made the cap and verified it worked with no light and then I switched everything over like I did on the passenger side and all is good. Figured I'd right this long comment to help you guys because I wish someone else would have. Just make sure you try the cap before you modify anything else to ensure the cap works. Hope this helps.
Will this work on a 05 mustang
Did it work?
come on, man