I've made another mod/improvement to my FET, I've enlarged the suction hose orifice with some 12mm drill holes. Now the saw table stays clean and inside there is a 6*4 clean dust suction area which is better than the original 2*2.
Har du en vejledning til hvordan du har lavet den? Den ser rigtig god ud! Har selv samme problem med at jeg selv skal 'opfinde' måder at holde træet på osv - især rundstokke.
Carsten Dippel Aagaard Hej Carsten, der er desværre ingen tegninger men det er en meget enkel konstruktion, længde og højde er ikke vigtig men den skal passere fuldstændig stramt på det oprindelige og så skal du også lave en ny indækning omkring savbladet. Du bør også overveje at lave en Cross Cut Sled, det er det bedste jeg har lavet til min sav. ruclips.net/video/CtsqUJVeCJc/видео.html
Complimenti ! però non ho capito a cosa serve il taglio fatto nello strumento, che si vede nel punto 5:09. Grazie Compliments ! but I did not understand what the cutting done in the instrument is for, which is shown in 5:09. Thanks
Anacondor1965 Thank you for your comment. It was only meant to show that it is easier to make precise cuts if you make a few changes to the saw. The last block in the video I have subsequently used as a stop block in my cross cut sled. ruclips.net/video/DuZO9utfyRg/видео.html Hope the answer makes sense, my English is based on help from Google translator :-)
Hello Mr Harris. Sorry my ignorance about this subject. Recently I acquired a P. Fet and I have little experience in woodworking. I'm in the process of making a Throat plate/saw insert and a fence like yours (my fence is L shape). About the throat plate, what thickness should it be? Beside cutting the plate format you do any milling on the side in contact to the Fet base? Can I use light plywood? About the fence, do you have any advice? ;-)
Due to my inability in English I use Google translate and the translations it provides are not always easy to understand sorry if I misunderstand some questions. The thickness of the plate around the saw blade you have to measure on your own saw, I have two P FETs and they have different measurements. You can make the high MDF block I use on my guide rail in plywood, but you have to find a way to mount it on the new L-shaped guide rail. If you mostly work with small things, I would recommend that you make a Cross Cut Sled or Side Cut Sled, here you can easily develop the Jiks that fit what you make.
@@Harris-DIY I make mine, your words about English and G Translate. :-) I'm using 2mm ply for the plate, and for the fence 10mm (left) and 19mm (right)mdf. :-)
Mr Harris, My I just call you Harris? About the cross cut sled, and Fet fence, what wood do you use for rails and fence spacers? It looks like beech for rails and mdf for spacers. Also, what you do about expansion and contraction of wood with humidity and temperature? I mean, how do you cut the rails when humidity is high (80°c)?
The materials in the Cross Cut Sled are mostly MDF and plywood and here movements in the materials are not a problem as the movements that are most are parallel to the saw blade or perpendicular to the saw blade. For the guide rails under the sledge I use oak but I have heard that bamboo should be suitable but I have not yet had time to try it. The guide rails are very sensitive to fluctuations in air humidity, here I am very aware of the weather the day I make them and that I find wood where the years are right. The sled I use now can be used without problems 90% of the year. Have you seen this video ruclips.net/video/HrHpoKlRJDw/видео.html
Хобби
Ваши, приспособления позволяют добиться потрясающей функциональности, спасибо за идеи!
I've made another mod/improvement to my FET, I've enlarged the suction hose orifice with some 12mm drill holes. Now the saw table stays clean and inside there is a 6*4 clean dust suction area which is better than the original 2*2.
smart ideas. Making them as well. Thanks for the vid.
Genius
Always a good video, thank you!
Thank you very much for your comment
Big like!👍👍👍👍👍✅💪Felicitări! Great video 👍👍👍
Thanks for your comment, here you can find all my videos about Proxxon FET ruclips.net/p/PLo4W2syiAHwAWarCul47E1w1wnTPZKbUE
Har du en vejledning til hvordan du har lavet den? Den ser rigtig god ud! Har selv samme problem med at jeg selv skal 'opfinde' måder at holde træet på osv - især rundstokke.
Carsten Dippel Aagaard Hej Carsten, der er desværre ingen tegninger men det er en meget enkel konstruktion, længde og højde er ikke vigtig men den skal passere fuldstændig stramt på det oprindelige og så skal du også lave en ny indækning omkring savbladet. Du bør også overveje at lave en Cross Cut Sled, det er det bedste jeg har lavet til min sav. ruclips.net/video/CtsqUJVeCJc/видео.html
Complimenti ! però non ho capito a cosa serve il taglio fatto nello strumento, che si vede nel punto 5:09. Grazie
Compliments ! but I did not understand what the cutting done in the instrument is for, which is shown in 5:09. Thanks
Anacondor1965 Thank you for your comment. It was only meant to show that it is easier to make precise cuts if you make a few changes to the saw. The last block in the video I have subsequently used as a stop block in my cross cut sled. ruclips.net/video/DuZO9utfyRg/видео.html Hope the answer makes sense, my English is based on help from Google translator :-)
Hello Mr Harris.
Sorry my ignorance about this subject. Recently I acquired a P. Fet and I have little experience in woodworking.
I'm in the process of making a Throat plate/saw insert and a fence like yours (my fence is L shape). About the throat plate, what thickness should it be?
Beside cutting the plate format you do any milling on the side in contact to the Fet base?
Can I use light plywood?
About the fence, do you have any advice? ;-)
Due to my inability in English I use Google translate and the translations it provides are not always easy to understand sorry if I misunderstand some questions. The thickness of the plate around the saw blade you have to measure on your own saw, I have two P FETs and they have different measurements. You can make the high MDF block I use on my guide rail in plywood, but you have to find a way to mount it on the new L-shaped guide rail. If you mostly work with small things, I would recommend that you make a Cross Cut Sled or Side Cut Sled, here you can easily develop the Jiks that fit what you make.
@@Harris-DIY I make mine, your words about English and G Translate. :-) I'm using 2mm ply for the plate, and for the fence 10mm (left) and 19mm (right)mdf. :-)
Mr Harris, My I just call you Harris?
About the cross cut sled, and Fet fence, what wood do you use for rails and fence spacers? It looks like beech for rails and mdf for spacers.
Also, what you do about expansion and contraction of wood with humidity and temperature? I mean, how do you cut the rails when humidity is high (80°c)?
The materials in the Cross Cut Sled are mostly MDF and plywood and here movements in the materials are not a problem as the movements that are most are parallel to the saw blade or perpendicular to the saw blade. For the guide rails under the sledge I use oak but I have heard that bamboo should be suitable but I have not yet had time to try it. The guide rails are very sensitive to fluctuations in air humidity, here I am very aware of the weather the day I make them and that I find wood where the years are right. The sled I use now can be used without problems 90% of the year. Have you seen this video ruclips.net/video/HrHpoKlRJDw/видео.html
@@Harris-DIY how do you check "wood where the years are right"?