I've generally just started judging components by the wire gauge that they come with. A 50A esc that comes with 18GA wire is a pretty good indication that the current rating is BS.
I've been looking for a video like this, thank you! Being new at (wanting to) build isn't easy when there are hundreds of numbers and options everywhere. I'll probably need to rewatch a few times to grasp everything as I'm still a bit confused on things, but thanks for making this!
Thank you! I agree it is a lot to learn and I hope some of my other tutorial videos can make things a bit easier. I'm also working on compiling more resources for new builders into one place that can be linked on my website.
Nice video, I feel sad for the dfrobot esc that you put > 12v into. The dfrobot integrated escs I'm sure are really intended for arduino-y non-combat applications which run at 5v or 6v, which they do ok. I designed the BBB "Red ESC" because we felt that the dfrobot ones were a bit unsuitable for robot combat, often failing after a while on 2S voltages. But the Red ESC really isn't intended for 12 volts, that's about the absolute maximum rating for its components.
Great video, I am currently trying to build a 150 gram ant weight (us fairy weight) and I am looking for a small lipo battery that I can recharge any advice?
Probably you want a 2S lipo pack between about 120 - 300mAh - Hobbyking have stopped doing the really nice 180mah packs they used to have. There are some suppliers around, componentshop.co.uk have a 120mah pack which looks nice but I haven't tried it (I still have stock of the discontinued HK ones). Remember to use a balance charger for all packs with more than one cell.
Since bots usually have metal chassis with good heat conducting properties, would it make sense to mount the ESC's to the chassis with a thermal compound to transfer the heat away from the ESC? Or wouldn't it really matter unless you have some active cooling?
Maybe! In theory anything that helps removes heat can help. But you would need a way to ensure that contact remains in place throughout a fight which could be harder than it sounds. It's not something I would rely on per se
I've been looking for a video like this for a while! A lot of the N20 motors I find online are rated for 6 volts, but I am using a 2s lipo battery (7.4 V). Would running this setup burn out the motors?
Brushed motors are generally able to deal with more voltage than their rating up to roughly 150%, but the higher you go the shorter the lifespan will be. Will it still survive a number of fights? Probably. How many? No clue.
Chain Saw Leg Armour ..Chainsaw protective fabric works on a number of principles .Clogging TThe fibres of your chainsaw protective garments’ material are drawn into the drive sprocket by the chain, blocking chain movement and keeping you unharmed. Beneath these, long, loose fibres of polyester, Avertic , ballistic nylon, or Kevlar is laid in layers .....ie clog the motor up Armour lol
Hey Great video thank you!! I have a question… do u use a board or something to code the motors speed and direction? I mean, where is the software? Do u code something or the remote control does the work? I do t understand. Thank you 😊
I’m a drone builder/flyer that are thinking of getting into this hobby.. most motors are no longer cw or CCW. Do you use any specific receiver? I am assuming you just go receiver to esc via pwm signal?
What is better? Is it better to run your robot at a higher voltage with lesser current draw/ thinner wires, or a lower voltage battery with more current flowing, assuming the same amount of motion/ work is done.
The wires themselves are usually not the thing that dictates the voltage And you're going to save an inconsequential amount of weight, oftentimes, by using a thinner gauge wire. Running at higher voltages with the same motor, if it can actually handle that without burning up, will mean you get more output power because you're going to get more speed and similar or slightly better torque from an electric motor at a higher voltage. But you will also use more current and the motor will get hot and could burn up. If you use a lower KV brushless motor of the same size and higher voltage to get about the same speed and torque as before at a lower voltage, then you are probably running more efficiently and using less current which means your motor doesn't get as hot and might last longer.
I just killed an esc I thought was the right rating (45a esc/1800kv 3530 motor on a rc rock crawler on 3s. The esc was for a drone and worked well til it didn’t. I’m thinking I need a higher amp rating esc, it was a heat issue or my bullet connectors touched. Any tips would be helpful.
You can always try a different ESC and make sure to tape over the bullets to eliminate that possible issue. Otherwise getting a $20 IR thermometer can help to determine if parts are overheating. Just run for a little while and check the temps on the motor and ESC. Need to use masking tape on the motor to ensure the reflective metal is read accurately.
It's almost definitly a heat issue. I've got 40a esc from skystars (talon32 slim). The switching mosfets are rated for ~250A continous and ~730A peak currents, but the esc is really tiny. Without the direct airdraft from a drone propeller (which can be easily 100kph or higher) those things just melt.n
@@JustCuzRobotics Depends heavily on the individual cell. I have Samsung 40T cells (21700 size), rated at 40 amps continuous current from 4.2V to 3V. That's per cell. You get what you pay for with Li Ion. I would say though that they are no more safe than LiPo. The danger from LiPo comes from people not understanding proper battery care. Always balance charge each cell against the rest, charge cold, not after running the pack warm, and do not leave them full or dead for extended periods. Ions are just as dangerous if you misuse them. Check all the footage of people's vapes exploding in their pockets for example.
In probably 99% of cases the super oversized esc's are not worth it. But if you really aren't tight on weight or space at all they will definitely work
![Diggy Graves - Red Vineyard [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8Ro085T0mnQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I've generally just started judging components by the wire gauge that they come with. A 50A esc that comes with 18GA wire is a pretty good indication that the current rating is BS.
No, it just comes with built-in fuses :).
Great vid. There aren’t enough sources that explain stuff like this in an approachable way
I've been looking for a video like this, thank you! Being new at (wanting to) build isn't easy when there are hundreds of numbers and options everywhere. I'll probably need to rewatch a few times to grasp everything as I'm still a bit confused on things, but thanks for making this!
Thank you! I agree it is a lot to learn and I hope some of my other tutorial videos can make things a bit easier. I'm also working on compiling more resources for new builders into one place that can be linked on my website.
So much to learn!!! I've got most of everything figured out on my 150g build. Weapon motor has been giving me a fit, so more research for me.
Nice video, I feel sad for the dfrobot esc that you put > 12v into. The dfrobot integrated escs I'm sure are really intended for arduino-y non-combat applications which run at 5v or 6v, which they do ok.
I designed the BBB "Red ESC" because we felt that the dfrobot ones were a bit unsuitable for robot combat, often failing after a while on 2S voltages. But the Red ESC really isn't intended for 12 volts, that's about the absolute maximum rating for its components.
Great video, I am currently trying to build a 150 gram ant weight (us fairy weight) and I am looking for a small lipo battery that I can recharge any advice?
I have not built any 150g bots but Bristol Bot Builders has you covered: bristolbotbuilders.com/guides.html
Probably you want a 2S lipo pack between about 120 - 300mAh - Hobbyking have stopped doing the really nice 180mah packs they used to have. There are some suppliers around, componentshop.co.uk have a 120mah pack which looks nice but I haven't tried it (I still have stock of the discontinued HK ones). Remember to use a balance charger for all packs with more than one cell.
Since bots usually have metal chassis with good heat conducting properties, would it make sense to mount the ESC's to the chassis with a thermal compound to transfer the heat away from the ESC? Or wouldn't it really matter unless you have some active cooling?
Maybe! In theory anything that helps removes heat can help. But you would need a way to ensure that contact remains in place throughout a fight which could be harder than it sounds. It's not something I would rely on per se
I've been looking for a video like this for a while! A lot of the N20 motors I find online are rated for 6 volts, but I am using a 2s lipo battery (7.4 V). Would running this setup burn out the motors?
Brushed motors are generally able to deal with more voltage than their rating up to roughly 150%, but the higher you go the shorter the lifespan will be. Will it still survive a number of fights? Probably. How many? No clue.
@@JustCuzRobotics Cool! Thanks for the information
Awesome video, great info!
Thank you!
Chain Saw Leg Armour ..Chainsaw protective fabric works on a number of principles .Clogging
TThe fibres of your chainsaw protective garments’ material are drawn into the drive sprocket by the chain, blocking chain movement and keeping you unharmed. Beneath these, long, loose fibres of polyester, Avertic , ballistic nylon, or Kevlar is laid in layers .....ie clog the motor up Armour lol
Hey Great video thank you!! I have a question… do u use a board or something to code the motors speed and direction? I mean, where is the software? Do u code something or the remote control does the work? I do t understand. Thank you 😊
This is such a good video!
I’m a drone builder/flyer that are thinking of getting into this hobby.. most motors are no longer cw or CCW. Do you use any specific receiver? I am assuming you just go receiver to esc via pwm signal?
Plenty of drone or RC plane/car receivers will work for robots. Any that take PWM can work with almost any ESC.
What is better? Is it better to run your robot at a higher voltage with lesser current draw/ thinner wires, or a lower voltage battery with more current flowing, assuming the same amount of motion/ work is done.
The wires themselves are usually not the thing that dictates the voltage And you're going to save an inconsequential amount of weight, oftentimes, by using a thinner gauge wire.
Running at higher voltages with the same motor, if it can actually handle that without burning up, will mean you get more output power because you're going to get more speed and similar or slightly better torque from an electric motor at a higher voltage. But you will also use more current and the motor will get hot and could burn up.
If you use a lower KV brushless motor of the same size and higher voltage to get about the same speed and torque as before at a lower voltage, then you are probably running more efficiently and using less current which means your motor doesn't get as hot and might last longer.
26:20 "Gear reduction err uhhh pulley reduction"
I do this constantly. Constantly constantly constantly.
Doesn't help when the same bot uses both... 😅
Generally, for motors of the same size, if the KV goes down, the amps go up
Power may go up but current should not. Lower KV motors sometimes can use higher voltages.
I just killed an esc I thought was the right rating (45a esc/1800kv 3530 motor on a rc rock crawler on 3s. The esc was for a drone and worked well til it didn’t. I’m thinking I need a higher amp rating esc, it was a heat issue or my bullet connectors touched. Any tips would be helpful.
You can always try a different ESC and make sure to tape over the bullets to eliminate that possible issue. Otherwise getting a $20 IR thermometer can help to determine if parts are overheating. Just run for a little while and check the temps on the motor and ESC. Need to use masking tape on the motor to ensure the reflective metal is read accurately.
@@JustCuzRobotics thanks for the tips.
It's almost definitly a heat issue. I've got 40a esc from skystars (talon32 slim). The switching mosfets are rated for ~250A continous and ~730A peak currents, but the esc is really tiny. Without the direct airdraft from a drone propeller (which can be easily 100kph or higher) those things just melt.n
Will a lithium ion battery also work? Because of the burning danger lipos have i don't want to use them.
If your robot has no spinning weapon maybe. But Li Ion is limited to
@@JustCuzRobotics Depends heavily on the individual cell. I have Samsung 40T cells (21700 size), rated at 40 amps continuous current from 4.2V to 3V. That's per cell. You get what you pay for with Li Ion.
I would say though that they are no more safe than LiPo. The danger from LiPo comes from people not understanding proper battery care. Always balance charge each cell against the rest, charge cold, not after running the pack warm, and do not leave them full or dead for extended periods. Ions are just as dangerous if you misuse them. Check all the footage of people's vapes exploding in their pockets for example.
Can you also make a video wher jou show how to build featherweights ?
One video showing the entire build process would be like 16 hours long lol. That's not possible.
@@JustCuzRobotics mebay you can make more video's
Thank u :)
Sure!
I'm really late to the party but a lithium polymer battery uses a polymer electrolyte, the prismatic cell being plastic is unrelated
Oh really? I have read that ages ago somewhere and didn't question it. Whoops.
“Big Chungus here”
But was I wrong though?
@@JustCuzRobotics Never said you were wrong, it is indeed big chung
so basically trust big boys if you don't mind the weight
In probably 99% of cases the super oversized esc's are not worth it. But if you really aren't tight on weight or space at all they will definitely work
Wait, im 1 of 4? im 35th Like
The average viewer is watching less than a third of the video, I think most people hit 'like' near the start
@@JustCuzRobotics for whatever it's worth, I'm putting off watching until I can focus on it properly.