Still one of the best build on youtube as I mentioned in the previous video, but seems like a lot of people have their own opinions. S2SLA, Formula Supra, project binky, Cleetus's Mullet etc. Those are all great builds but they have a large amount of resources and people behind those build, where Mike is on his own with a little help here and there and limited resources, and still builds this amazing vehicle on his own. So i stand with my statement of "the best build on youtube". Thanks Mike for the great videos!
@@onnokonemann9326 That build started like 8 years ago. This one not so much. And yes 2 blokes in a shed is not a lot of resources but experience is also a resource in my mind.
I’d recommend using acetone to clean your parts before welding. Using brake-cleaner has the potential to cause very serious health effects or kill you quickly. The issue is from the vapors from the residue being heated thus creating phosgene (nerve) gas. Many people think because the brake cleaner evaporates so quickly that it isn't an issue, but it has more to do with the residual left behind getting hot and vaporizing vs. the brake cleaner itself before it vaporizes. Great build though. Keep it up.
I personally know someone that was put in hospital with lung issues a few years ago and almost died from using brake clean for welding. Doesn’t matter how much ventilation it won’t stop it.
Sir, you probably want to rubbermount the intercooler. The pedestal in the trans tube is cool but vibration could be detrimental to such a complex aluminum part.
Working midnights, coming home and seeing you posted 15 minutes ago is one of the best things. Love the build, the attention to detail is mind blowing.
judging by the quality of the content, boldness of the projects and video editing quality, the subscriber count will probably grow exponentially... Kudos for all the hard work that's clearly involved in putting all this together!
For the roof- Use the existing headliner parts to cover the pillars and the ugly bit at the back corners, then cover it in foam backed faux suede/alcantara. I have used cheap stuff to re do two headliners, one by bonding to the original liner backing and another straight to insulation material on the roof. I am no kind of upholstery genius but both came out pretty well. It glued in tight and stretches where you need it to, the foam backing is about 3-4mm thick and does smooth out some imperfections in the sub surface. I think you could make it look great in there with a dark grey or black alcantara roof, better than carpet and still giving you free height.
Man it is moving along. I built a car back in the late 1970s and another in 1990. It's the bloody little odds and sods that take the time. Then once it is 95% ready it seems to take forever. Once you fire up the motor all sorts of unforeseen surprises pop up. It is happening. Cheers from OZ.
Headliner idea i had but didnt post Do the gurney bubble in the headliner only. This can easily be made out of a single layer of fiberglass, kevlar, or carbon the mold for it can easily be made out os a single piece of 2" pink insulation foam from the local box box store. Then bond it to the backside of the headliner after it's trimmed. Then recover it. A fairing cover can also be made at the same time to wire tuck the harness for the switch panel.
Hey Mike, good to see the build coming along so well. I'll bet we all still drool over the carbon fibre PracWorks intake manifold. It's so choice. The consensus down below seems to be for a Stance Work logo to be applied to the top of the intercooler chamber.In a contrasting (black_silver) color scheme it might look pretty trick.
Hey! Not fair bringing the awesome puppy into the mix! Just too darn cute. Thanks. Rubber mounts for intercooler that take into account the engine movement and chassis vibrations, of course, just like you said you were going to do on the past episode....;-)
Alcantara headliner panel, which follows the perimeter of the roll cage up there - suspended by strong magnets so you can remove it easy for track use. If you leave a small gap between the headliner panel and the rollcage, then add some LED mood lights behind it up there, the light would leak through and add some accent lighting and could also act as a modern solution to a dome light :)
When making flanges like the adapter for the throttle body, machine in O-ring grooves, someone with a CNC can do it easily especially if you have the CAD drawing of the plates. You can by o-ring stock material in various diameters and lengths and glue… just cut to length (at a 45%+ angle to increase surface area being glued), job done and better than a paper gasket 👍
Spice up that intercooler by putting your S/W logo on it! Cut it out of sheet metal, use a mesh or tempered design behind it, and place it right on top to really make it stand out.
Of all the car modders, drifters, car enthusiast, channels that I watch, I have to say hands down I'm waiting for this Ferrari build with the most anticipation. Looks good my man, and can't wait to see it rip!
Cork. Believe it or not that's how I lined my Jaguar XJS roof when the interior shell fell apart. Just that shelf-lining cork installed by Weld-Bond. It looked good alone but it became both the base for my new headliner install, but also sound deadening, low thickness liner, and new surface. I drew a middle line and installed the rolls out to the sides from there. It'll add less than 1/8" thickness and look great.
Charge pipe and intercooler set up look great! Your inspiring me to learn to weld and maybe I'll work on getting rid of the silicone in my charge pipe system as a learning experience once I get the basics down.
Couple issues you may want to look into before proceeding. One is the mounting for the intercooler. Because it is a solid piece of metal it will not play around when needed especially because hard mounted the cooler to the intake. when you apply gas and the engine moves on the engine mounts it will tear something apart. most probably the quick couplers will break first. you will need some sort of flex in that area. you only problem is not vibrations and movements but also heat. The intercooler will work and it will be hot on oneside and cooler on the other and things will move around due to expansion. Another thing I see is you built the solid hose without the gaaskets. but you have 2 adapter plates which means you will use 3 gaskets which will be atleast 3 mmm each. for a total of 9mm. unless you are using 0mm crush gaskets then you can disregard this but if not you are going to be off to oneside. Watching this series with great pleasure. Awesome work.
i think the best and least amount of work would be drop the seat. this way you keep the oem headliner and roll cage. you drop the seat no one will ever be able to tell from the inside only if they got under the car and looked at your floorboard. plus i'm sure it still would not be the lowest part of the car. 1.5 -2" and your set.
Gotta love the times where you can just close yourself off from the world and focus on your passion projects undisturbed. You definitely got a ton of work done! Just keep chipping away man. Every day is just one step closer to being able to rip around the track. I hope to be able to see this thing in person one day. I do think the original headliner was great aesthetically. I'm not sure where the rivets connected to the roof but my idea would've been to install rivnuts or something similar to have 1/4 turn or other bolts to thread into for easy removal/reinstall. I get that the roll cage gap would probably bug you once you took it out for the track though. Hopefully you can steal ideas/measurements from the original headliner to make your own custom one that works better in all situations. And you'll probably be able to sell it to fund the new one (and more?) too!
When you mention the use of foam for finishing the headliner, that was what came to mind for me. A spray foam that will adhere that can be sanded and contoured to hide the ugly and give a smooth clean surface to cover with your headliner, which I would go with suede. Just my 2 cents. Love this build!
Thoughts for the headliner. What if you glue a matching headliner fabric directly to the roof's sheetmetal and make an opening in your OE headliner that runs over the driver and passenger seat. The opening sides would meet up with your upholstered roof sheet metal and look pretty clean. This would be a permanent solution and would also allow you to retain the current roll bar since the opening in the headliner can start past your roll bar and short of the metal bracing near the windshield. I personally think it would look pretty good and have that functional look to it. Anyways, really enjoying this build and hopefully this idea is a plausible solution.
This is the only channel I'd consider buying merch from. 1) love your build and 2) love your style. Keep up the good work, I have no doubt you'll be a 1M channel soon.
Hi Mike, With the head liner out and there's now a gap between roll bar and roof, rather than re make the roll bar you could weld in a gusset from the Roof to the bar? Connecting the bar to the roof would increase chassis rigidity. The gusset could be bolted to the roll bar or welded, you could also cover the gusset in the same material used for the roof covering. Just a thought.
You have the CAD drawing of the ECU cross ‘brace’ you mounted on the bulkhead… why not get another cut and add to the top of the intercooler just for aesthetic’s 👍
The whole headliner issue and which route to take to fix the seating position plus a helmet clearance is mind boggling! However with ur chosen path, of remaking the hoop and diagonals, thats alot of work and fittment plus coming up with solution of headliner that is still not tackled yet. Way i think perhaps cutting carpet under ur very own seat, and going lower a couple of inches (if not obstructed by anything down below), patch panel, welded and small patches of sound deadening is much easier if u d ask me! And just keep a roll cage u made as it is! Also stock headliner covering all that OEM welding monstrosity! And definitely dont screw with body lines, go down rather than up is what im suggesting! Great progress and following up closely on that amazing build!
I know you said you were going to use different materials to make up for the head liner, but if you were to make the head liner removable why don’t you use 1/4 turn self ejecting fasteners? We use them everywhere on AV8B harrier (aircraft I fix for a living). In my head I could see it working very well
In the 1889’s we took a 77 308GTB fiberglass unit and created a GT-2 SCCA race car. The structure was a mish mash if small rectangular tubes which we largely trashed saving the oval tube backbone and structural cradle for the engine and front suspension. The remainder was chrome molly tubing. While the fiberglass roof remained, all body panels were molded hand laid thin fiberglass
Would be cool to put fiberglass filler in the seams of the roof rails and then cover the whole roof in alcantara. I actually think the frame at the front of the roof (just above the windshield) looks really cool. It'd look good with alcantara stretched over that frame so that it looks embossed. I also love your idea to have the control pad coming out of the roof. Doubtless whatever you go with will look superb. Keep up the good work!
Idea for intercooler...What about a StanceWorks pentagram shield laser cut and tack welded down to the top? It would be almost like it's embossed atop the intercooler body.
All I was thinking about as soon as it was gone. It would look super dope but i think without a rotisserie it would be a struggle to get that to adhere in a uniform pattern. But my attitude is....because racecar do it.
2 questions / comments: how are you cooling the intercooler? Are there end tanks to go on yet? Also, if you are dispensing with the stock headliner why not go full cage with removable door bars? Great series, one of the best in YT!
It’s a water to air intercooler, not an air to air intercooler. It’s cooled by the second radiator we put at the front of the car. I don’t want to go full cage because of the head room problem discussed. It’s not safe at all for a street car.
@@stanceworks Yeah, I guess having to wear a lid every drive would be a pain. So, is there water end tanks still to go on the cooler or am I missing something fundamental?
I understand how you feel about those interior parts. I would feel the same. Last video I suggested to apply (with vinyl top adhesive) diamond stitched alcantara or vinyl right to the inside of the top as a headliner and I still think that's the answer, maybe with a thin layer of foam. As with the a pillars and similar areas, why not just body-work those areas with fiberglass and light weight body filler to smooth them out? Then you could either vinyl wrap, or (now bear with me), you could use SEM spray texture in those areas and apply spray vinyl dye. I have used that technique on custom a pillars for speakers. It really looks pretty factory and its durable.
For your headliner, I would find an upholsterer and see if they can make you a headliner that has a step/bump in it around the head area. Kinda of like how the FD RX7 has the molded in bumps for the driver and passenger. Now that I think about it, the FD RX7 and 308 probably have similar size interiors, you may even be able to cut up one and use it as a mock up or something. Just throwing ideas out there, I'm sure you'll come up with a slick solutions that makes you happy. Keep up the good work!
on top of your intercooler you can put an aluminum plate with your logo on it and powder coat it, space it like 1/8 or so for effect and cooling.... Great work love the videos
Keep the a pillar and rear sections of the headliner with the centre cut out, cover them in stretch fabric, then cover the now exposed sections of roof/roof support in the same fabric.
You do a great job mashining als the parts in shape. I found only one issue, the intercooler mount to the bodyshell. The vibrations will crack the aluminium structure if its to stiff. Better rest it on rubber mounts
Hi Mike, I really enjoy watching your build and don't want it to come to an end. . .as such I suggest you move the brake cleaner further from your welding! I think that stuff is either chlorinated (off gases nasty stuff during welding) or flammable. Maybe there is a non-chlorinated AND non-flammable version, but I don't think so!
Looking great, I would mount the intercooler on some rubber or silicon pads ... And to liven it up how about some long cooling fins on top with an oval relief with a logo on show 👍 Great job 👍
Would you consider putting an O ring on the bottom of the intercooler support leg? It might be a useful "bump stop" to prevent vibrations traveling up and the weight of the water causing cracks in that neat cooler. Just my thoughts compiled from incomplete data because I don't know your plans for the top mounts and I know you always have a plan
Cut the bottom corner of the seat (where your butt won't fit) off on an angle to allow lowering the seat even more, glass the hole of course. More Vid Please!
Mike I have stopped watching the Shmee150 and JWWs on RUclips and have been focusing on your channel for this build and Home Built By Jeff whose putting a Ferrari V8 in to a Alfa Romeo GT Junior. The reason is the genuinely unique content explaining the extent of work required to have something truly unique. Onwards and upwards indeed
Isn’t it possible to use LIDAR on the iPhone to get the curves on the back panel of the interior? And with that make a 3D part to cover it up? It’s gonna suck in that smalle place and with all the curves and such to make a decent part by hand.
the camera work on the intro is much better, might be worth opening up the aperture another stop so when your moving in the frame and the camera is keeping focus the focus breathing will be less noticeable and it wont impact the nice soft background to much. (that arguably might be to out of focus to some folks) the B-roll shots are looking much better too. You might slow the movement down and make sure to stabilize them so they are really locked down. great work I am loving watching the progress.
Its getting close!!! Loving the vids Mike, its like catching up with a friend (something we can't really ATM here in Auckland, NZ due to the COVID Lockdown).
Speaking of intercooler piping... I think with the catch can relocated, the piping will be a lot nicer to look at (although it will require complicated piping fabrication be it stay there or not)
not an expert, but i believe that blow off valve position is aerodynamically inefficient, possibly bad. air compresses on the outside of a bend within a tube, leaving a lower pressure on the inside than the outside. the air will also not flow well to the blow off valve from this T-junction you have made. the best place from what I have seen on most turbocharged racecars is on the outside of a bend, with a Y-junction to allow a lot of airflow to the BOV. this allows very precise boost control according to the mechanics and engineers that built them. your work is fantastic and i'm absolutely in love with this build, and i've watched every episode so far. I just want to point out something that may need to be changed so you may not hurt your motor when you turn up the boost
As an upholsterer I would just do exactly as you said put in foam shave it down put material over it one thing I can tell you do not use regular spray adhesive it'll reactivate at a hundred degrees and let go of anything it's holding make sure you you use headliner spray adhesive
Love your videos, I find them really inspiring, to always think outside the box, and find creative an beautiful ways to things the right way; no matter how hard. Cheers! Excited to see the finished masterpiece.
Great video, and love how the build is coming along. For the intercooler - tubular end tanks could help make it look better aesthetically. Other option is to think about finishes, such as crackle black/red. 👍🏽
I feel like a lovely glossy black on the intercooler itself would add just enough variation to make things interesting. Plus also it wouldn't be too hard to mask or spray up
Maybe you could sell the rollbar, somebody might be interested in one for their classic race car?! I love how detailed you are man, its amazing to watch. Thanks for the content.
Still one of the best build on youtube as I mentioned in the previous video, but seems like a lot of people have their own opinions. S2SLA, Formula Supra, project binky, Cleetus's Mullet etc. Those are all great builds but they have a large amount of resources and people behind those build, where Mike is on his own with a little help here and there and limited resources, and still builds this amazing vehicle on his own. So i stand with my statement of "the best build on youtube". Thanks Mike for the great videos!
it's this, bad obessions' binky and anything taylor ray builds. that's it.
Thinking Binky has a lot of resources 😂 it is just 2 blokes in a shed
@@onnokonemann9326 That build started like 8 years ago. This one not so much. And yes 2 blokes in a shed is not a lot of resources but experience is also a resource in my mind.
Speaking of binky...
That project is as old as my daughter... Lol...
Every build is unique...
So i watched them all...
Good stuff
I’d recommend using acetone to clean your parts before welding. Using brake-cleaner has the potential to cause very serious health effects or kill you quickly. The issue is from the vapors from the residue being heated thus creating phosgene (nerve) gas. Many people think because the brake cleaner evaporates so quickly that it isn't an issue, but it has more to do with the residual left behind getting hot and vaporizing vs. the brake cleaner itself before it vaporizes.
Great build though. Keep it up.
Woah shit. Interesting.
I second this!! Brake clean before welding = 🤢🤮😵
3rd this No Brake Clean man, Acetone!
I personally know someone that was put in hospital with lung issues a few years ago and almost died from using brake clean for welding. Doesn’t matter how much ventilation it won’t stop it.
He is using the non chlorinated version so it's the safer bet but yeah I'd just rock something else if I was doing that much welding consistently.
Sir, you probably want to rubbermount the intercooler. The pedestal in the trans tube is cool but vibration could be detrimental to such a complex aluminum part.
Agreed 100%. This is a great bit of advice.
Was totally thinking the same thing.. just a little cushion needed.. like being lifted up by a little ring of rubber or something along those lines.
Agree'd a rubber o-ring seat would help. Additionally maybe a pin or grub screw to actually locate it.
On the ever-growing list of things you do right, I also want to add, the music you choose for your videos is ALWAYS on point!
Working midnights, coming home and seeing you posted 15 minutes ago is one of the best things. Love the build, the attention to detail is mind blowing.
Living the progress. One note though, never use Brakekleen to prep for welds. It is highly toxic when heated. Use Acetone instead.
Only when it’s chlorinated brake cleaner. But you are correct.
judging by the quality of the content, boldness of the projects and video editing quality, the subscriber count will probably grow exponentially... Kudos for all the hard work that's clearly involved in putting all this together!
For the top of the intercooler, a STANCEWORKS plate across the top could look pretty cool imo.
Yep
For the roof- Use the existing headliner parts to cover the pillars and the ugly bit at the back corners, then cover it in foam backed faux suede/alcantara. I have used cheap stuff to re do two headliners, one by bonding to the original liner backing and another straight to insulation material on the roof. I am no kind of upholstery genius but both came out pretty well. It glued in tight and stretches where you need it to, the foam backing is about 3-4mm thick and does smooth out some imperfections in the sub surface.
I think you could make it look great in there with a dark grey or black alcantara roof, better than carpet and still giving you free height.
Man it is moving along. I built a car back in the late 1970s and another in 1990. It's the bloody little odds and sods that take the time. Then once it is 95% ready it seems to take forever. Once you fire up the motor all sorts of unforeseen surprises pop up. It is happening. Cheers from OZ.
Headliner idea i had but didnt post Do the gurney bubble in the headliner only. This can easily be made out of a single layer of fiberglass, kevlar, or carbon the mold for it can easily be made out os a single piece of 2" pink insulation foam from the local box box store. Then bond it to the backside of the headliner after it's trimmed. Then recover it. A fairing cover can also be made at the same time to wire tuck the harness for the switch panel.
Wow that looks really good great job! Maybe put a 3-D StanceWorks logo on the cooler? And happy birthday Chloe!
Hey Mike, good to see the build coming along so well. I'll bet we all still drool over the carbon fibre PracWorks intake manifold. It's so choice.
The consensus down below seems to be for a Stance Work logo to be applied to the top of the intercooler chamber.In a contrasting (black_silver) color scheme it might look pretty trick.
For sure one of the best build channels here! Love this build and the way you explain so good everything
I think this channel is one of the best out there not only he provides enough information about the build but go beyond it part by part
Hey! Not fair bringing the awesome puppy into the mix! Just too darn cute. Thanks.
Rubber mounts for intercooler that take into account the engine movement
and chassis vibrations, of course, just like you said you were going to do on the past episode....;-)
Alcantara headliner panel, which follows the perimeter of the roll cage up there - suspended by strong magnets so you can remove it easy for track use. If you leave a small gap between the headliner panel and the rollcage, then add some LED mood lights behind it up there, the light would leak through and add some accent lighting and could also act as a modern solution to a dome light :)
When making flanges like the adapter for the throttle body, machine in O-ring grooves, someone with a CNC can do it easily especially if you have the CAD drawing of the plates. You can by o-ring stock material in various diameters and lengths and glue… just cut to length (at a 45%+ angle to increase surface area being glued), job done and better than a paper gasket 👍
We discussed adding an o-ring groove but there’s not quite enough room to add one.
Adapter comes with a rubberized gasket that fit between the two flanges
Spice up that intercooler by putting your S/W logo on it! Cut it out of sheet metal, use a mesh or tempered design behind it, and place it right on top to really make it stand out.
Of all the car modders, drifters, car enthusiast, channels that I watch, I have to say hands down I'm waiting for this Ferrari build with the most anticipation. Looks good my man, and can't wait to see it rip!
Cork. Believe it or not that's how I lined my Jaguar XJS roof when the interior shell fell apart. Just that shelf-lining cork installed by Weld-Bond. It looked good alone but it became both the base for my new headliner install, but also sound deadening, low thickness liner, and new surface. I drew a middle line and installed the rolls out to the sides from there. It'll add less than 1/8" thickness and look great.
Charge pipe and intercooler set up look great! Your inspiring me to learn to weld and maybe I'll work on getting rid of the silicone in my charge pipe system as a learning experience once I get the basics down.
Couple issues you may want to look into before proceeding. One is the mounting for the intercooler. Because it is a solid piece of metal it will not play around when needed especially because hard mounted the cooler to the intake. when you apply gas and the engine moves on the engine mounts it will tear something apart. most probably the quick couplers will break first. you will need some sort of flex in that area. you only problem is not vibrations and movements but also heat. The intercooler will work and it will be hot on oneside and cooler on the other and things will move around due to expansion. Another thing I see is you built the solid hose without the gaaskets. but you have 2 adapter plates which means you will use 3 gaskets which will be atleast 3 mmm each. for a total of 9mm. unless you are using 0mm crush gaskets then you can disregard this but if not you are going to be off to oneside.
Watching this series with great pleasure. Awesome work.
Putting the CAN pad up top was what I mentioned in the comments on the last episode! Stoked it may end up there
i think the best and least amount of work would be drop the seat. this way you keep the oem headliner and roll cage. you drop the seat no one will ever be able to tell from the inside only if they got under the car and looked at your floorboard. plus i'm sure it still would not be the lowest part of the car. 1.5 -2" and your set.
Gotta love the times where you can just close yourself off from the world and focus on your passion projects undisturbed. You definitely got a ton of work done! Just keep chipping away man. Every day is just one step closer to being able to rip around the track. I hope to be able to see this thing in person one day.
I do think the original headliner was great aesthetically. I'm not sure where the rivets connected to the roof but my idea would've been to install rivnuts or something similar to have 1/4 turn or other bolts to thread into for easy removal/reinstall. I get that the roll cage gap would probably bug you once you took it out for the track though. Hopefully you can steal ideas/measurements from the original headliner to make your own custom one that works better in all situations. And you'll probably be able to sell it to fund the new one (and more?) too!
Intercooler doesn’t need anything else to spice it up
You’re buggin
It’s 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
StanceWorks is one of those channels i can't miss an upload. Love your videos and wish you the best.
this is so cool, I like your methodic and well planed work, right from the start, bit by bit, and it all looks awesome !
That tapered intake tube is a work of art, like the rest of the car, but man you really nailed that piece. I know how hard that is!
When you mention the use of foam for finishing the headliner, that was what came to mind for me. A spray foam that will adhere that can be sanded and contoured to hide the ugly and give a smooth clean surface to cover with your headliner, which I would go with suede. Just my 2 cents. Love this build!
Thoughts for the headliner. What if you glue a matching headliner fabric directly to the roof's sheetmetal and make an opening in your OE headliner that runs over the driver and passenger seat. The opening sides would meet up with your upholstered roof sheet metal and look pretty clean. This would be a permanent solution and would also allow you to retain the current roll bar since the opening in the headliner can start past your roll bar and short of the metal bracing near the windshield. I personally think it would look pretty good and have that functional look to it. Anyways, really enjoying this build and hopefully this idea is a plausible solution.
This is the only channel I'd consider buying merch from. 1) love your build and 2) love your style. Keep up the good work, I have no doubt you'll be a 1M channel soon.
You gained a subscriber by saying that you’re not afraid to ask for help. That’s maturity.👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Hi Mike, With the head liner out and there's now a gap between roll bar and roof, rather than re make the roll bar you could weld in a gusset from the Roof to the bar? Connecting the bar to the roof would increase chassis rigidity. The gusset could be bolted to the roll bar or welded, you could also cover the gusset in the same material used for the roof covering. Just a thought.
You have the CAD drawing of the ECU cross ‘brace’ you mounted on the bulkhead… why not get another cut and add to the top of the intercooler just for aesthetic’s 👍
The whole headliner issue and which route to take to fix the seating position plus a helmet clearance is mind boggling! However with ur chosen path, of remaking the hoop and diagonals, thats alot of work and fittment plus coming up with solution of headliner that is still not tackled yet. Way i think perhaps cutting carpet under ur very own seat, and going lower a couple of inches (if not obstructed by anything down below), patch panel, welded and small patches of sound deadening is much easier if u d ask me! And just keep a roll cage u made as it is! Also stock headliner covering all that OEM welding monstrosity! And definitely dont screw with body lines, go down rather than up is what im suggesting! Great progress and following up closely on that amazing build!
I know you said you were going to use different materials to make up for the head liner, but if you were to make the head liner removable why don’t you use 1/4 turn self ejecting fasteners? We use them everywhere on AV8B harrier (aircraft I fix for a living). In my head I could see it working very well
One of the better soundtracks for a build series. Excellent music choice.
In the 1889’s we took a 77 308GTB fiberglass unit and created a GT-2 SCCA race car. The structure was a mish mash if small rectangular tubes which we largely trashed saving the oval tube backbone and structural cradle for the engine and front suspension. The remainder was chrome molly tubing. While the fiberglass roof remained, all body panels were molded hand laid thin fiberglass
Would be cool to put fiberglass filler in the seams of the roof rails and then cover the whole roof in alcantara. I actually think the frame at the front of the roof (just above the windshield) looks really cool. It'd look good with alcantara stretched over that frame so that it looks embossed. I also love your idea to have the control pad coming out of the roof. Doubtless whatever you go with will look superb. Keep up the good work!
congrats on almost 75k subs been here since 25k subs keep up the great work can't wait to see you hit that 100k mark ;)
Your content is so superior to some of the other RUclips car videos. Keep up the great work. Love the details, your thought process explanations.
There must be a fabric fronted sound deadening material you could use for the headliner, but great location for the control switches.
Getting so excited for this car. I am glad you didnt rush the build for a sema deadline. Build it at your pace, create a masterpiece.
Idea for intercooler...What about a StanceWorks pentagram shield laser cut and tack welded down to the top? It would be almost like it's embossed atop the intercooler body.
Let’s go!!!
Definitely my favorite build right now on the tube.
You deserve so much more subscribers. It is the best build out there, no questions.
That transition tube to the throttle body is some sexy fabrication. Well done.
Chloe Cam ftw!!
Love the content and build as always. +1 vote for stance|works logo etched or laser cut and welded onto the intercooler
You should lasercut the SW logo out of thin aluminum and weld it to the top of the intercooler core. Will make it pop and be the maker's stamp.
First time I've seen someone mentioning a snack without running a sponsored ad for Factor. So happy I haven't heard you mention AG1 once.
flocking after cleaning the “scabs” and welds on the roof could be a super simple solution to the lack of headliner.
Scrolling the comments thinking I shouldn't be the only one thinking about this!
All I was thinking about as soon as it was gone. It would look super dope but i think without a rotisserie it would be a struggle to get that to adhere in a uniform pattern. But my attitude is....because racecar do it.
Happy Birthday Chole!🤗😀
2 questions / comments: how are you cooling the intercooler? Are there end tanks to go on yet? Also, if you are dispensing with the stock headliner why not go full cage with removable door bars? Great series, one of the best in YT!
I thought the same thing for the intercooler
It’s a water to air intercooler, not an air to air intercooler. It’s cooled by the second radiator we put at the front of the car.
I don’t want to go full cage because of the head room problem discussed. It’s not safe at all for a street car.
@@stanceworks Yeah, I guess having to wear a lid every drive would be a pain. So, is there water end tanks still to go on the cooler or am I missing something fundamental?
You are correct. I mentioned adding them in the end of the episode.
@@stanceworks Ahh, trying to watch with the kids playing in the background again!!
Body sealer and paint on top will make those A-pillar look clean and it won't crack.
I understand how you feel about those interior parts. I would feel the same. Last video I suggested to apply (with vinyl top adhesive) diamond stitched alcantara or vinyl right to the inside of the top as a headliner and I still think that's the answer, maybe with a thin layer of foam. As with the a pillars and similar areas, why not just body-work those areas with fiberglass and light weight body filler to smooth them out? Then you could either vinyl wrap, or (now bear with me), you could use SEM spray texture in those areas and apply spray vinyl dye. I have used that technique on custom a pillars for speakers. It really looks pretty factory and its durable.
My favorite built of the entire youtube! This is gonna be a so sick man! Keep it up bro!
For your headliner, I would find an upholsterer and see if they can make you a headliner that has a step/bump in it around the head area. Kinda of like how the FD RX7 has the molded in bumps for the driver and passenger. Now that I think about it, the FD RX7 and 308 probably have similar size interiors, you may even be able to cut up one and use it as a mock up or something. Just throwing ideas out there, I'm sure you'll come up with a slick solutions that makes you happy. Keep up the good work!
It also helps to use a hose clamp on your tubing to get a straight cut on a bend.
Alcantara roofliner black, and thinn foam witch you can add on there you would like to hide something...
Art in motion. Poetic watching this come together.
on top of your intercooler you can put an aluminum plate with your logo on it and powder coat it, space it like 1/8 or so for effect and cooling.... Great work love the videos
On the intercooler you should add a layer of aluminum stood off the surface by 1/8” and put the Stance works logo on it.
Keep the a pillar and rear sections of the headliner with the centre cut out, cover them in stretch fabric, then cover the now exposed sections of roof/roof support in the same fabric.
You do a great job mashining als the parts in shape. I found only one issue, the intercooler mount to the bodyshell. The vibrations will crack the aluminium structure if its to stiff. Better rest it on rubber mounts
Hi Mike,
I really enjoy watching your build and don't want it to come to an end. . .as such I suggest you move the brake cleaner further from your welding! I think that stuff is either chlorinated (off gases nasty stuff during welding) or flammable. Maybe there is a non-chlorinated AND non-flammable version, but I don't think so!
Looking great, I would mount the intercooler on some rubber or silicon pads ...
And to liven it up how about some long cooling fins on top with an oval relief with a logo on show 👍
Great job 👍
Looking so damn good! Can’t wait to see what you do to spice up the inner cooler..3D S/W logo would be sick
Would you consider putting an O ring on the bottom of the intercooler support leg? It might be a useful "bump stop" to prevent vibrations traveling up and the weight of the water causing cracks in that neat cooler.
Just my thoughts compiled from incomplete data because I don't know your plans for the top mounts and I know you always have a plan
I just love these videos so much. They represent exactly what I want to do for a living
Cut the bottom corner of the seat (where your butt won't fit) off on an angle to allow lowering the seat even more, glass the hole of course. More Vid Please!
You're journey is amazing - I WISH I had a space like what you have for fun projects!
Honeslty one of the best builders I’ve ever watch, very clean with his ideas! Keep it up Brotha! Love the content!
This car is so dope !!! And that engine bay is killer bro!!!! I'm looking forward to the running videos when it's done.
Mike I have stopped watching the Shmee150 and JWWs on RUclips and have been focusing on your channel for this build and Home Built By Jeff whose putting a Ferrari V8 in to a Alfa Romeo GT Junior. The reason is the genuinely unique content explaining the extent of work required to have something truly unique. Onwards and upwards indeed
Isn’t it possible to use LIDAR on the iPhone to get the curves on the back panel of the interior? And with that make a 3D part to cover it up? It’s gonna suck in that smalle place and with all the curves and such to make a decent part by hand.
Whats up with the 90deg intercooler exit end tank...flow no no. And the 45 deg step in the throttle adapter too steep. 15 deg is ideal.
pro tip: when doing you BOV flange, weld the flange in place first then drill out the hole
For the headliner use carbon sections leave the front frame exposed the pillars you can use the original parts on them.
The production quality on this channel is just 👌
the camera work on the intro is much better, might be worth opening up the aperture another stop so when your moving in the frame and the camera is keeping focus the focus breathing will be less noticeable and it wont impact the nice soft background to much. (that arguably might be to out of focus to some folks) the B-roll shots are looking much better too. You might slow the movement down and make sure to stabilize them so they are really locked down.
great work I am loving watching the progress.
You should re-use the x brace design from the firewall ecu mount on the cooler.
Its getting close!!! Loving the vids Mike, its like catching up with a friend (something we can't really ATM here in Auckland, NZ due to the COVID Lockdown).
Pro and expert are words I’d use when talking about what you do. Clean work. 👍🏼
Speaking of intercooler piping...
I think with the catch can relocated, the piping will be a lot nicer to look at (although it will require complicated piping fabrication be it stay there or not)
StanceWorks, maybe 2 parts head carpet, one for ugly places and second only for clearing the roof
You work so hard and your videos are so professionally done and you always upload you deserve every bit of 75k sub
awesome work, that transition in charge pipe size would have been extremely difficult - kudos ! also great to see doggo getting screentime too ;)
I hope the throttle body pipe still fits when you add the gaskets.
not an expert, but i believe that blow off valve position is aerodynamically inefficient, possibly bad.
air compresses on the outside of a bend within a tube, leaving a lower pressure on the inside than the outside. the air will also not flow well to the blow off valve from this T-junction you have made.
the best place from what I have seen on most turbocharged racecars is on the outside of a bend, with a Y-junction to allow a lot of airflow to the BOV. this allows very precise boost control according to the mechanics and engineers that built them.
your work is fantastic and i'm absolutely in love with this build, and i've watched every episode so far. I just want to point out something that may need to be changed so you may not hurt your motor when you turn up the boost
Some type of raised SW logo could look sick on top of intercooler imo
As an upholsterer I would just do exactly as you said put in foam shave it down put material over it one thing I can tell you do not use regular spray adhesive it'll reactivate at a hundred degrees and let go of anything it's holding make sure you you use headliner spray adhesive
Love your videos, I find them really inspiring, to always think outside the box, and find creative an beautiful ways to things the right way; no matter how hard. Cheers! Excited to see the finished masterpiece.
Why didn’t you weld the insides of the end tanks? How much boost do you plan on running?
I think flocking the roof would look sick.
Why did you choose not to add a bushing the the water to air intercooler mount?
Because the tube it’s mounted to is bushed.
@@stanceworks scrolled back now I see it 👍
Great video, and love how the build is coming along. For the intercooler - tubular end tanks could help make it look better aesthetically. Other option is to think about finishes, such as crackle black/red. 👍🏽
I feel like a lovely glossy black on the intercooler itself would add just enough variation to make things interesting. Plus also it wouldn't be too hard to mask or spray up
Maybe you could sell the rollbar, somebody might be interested in one for their classic race car?! I love how detailed you are man, its amazing to watch. Thanks for the content.