How to bond new concrete to old concrete
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2018
- I have a new RUclips channel entirely dedicated to concrete - Please subscribe to Creating Concrete (with Steve) / @creatingconcrete
From www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pag... - In this video Steve explains how to make a bonding slurry for bonding new concrete to older, existing concrete. For a follow up video of making a slurry watch this one:
How To Make A Concrete Bonding Slurry - • How To Make A Concrete...
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Introduction To Concrete Bonding - • Introduction To Concre...
Bonding New Concrete To Oily Concrete - • Bonding New Concrete T...
How To Prepare Old Concrete For Bonding - • How To Prepare Old Con...
How To Acid Wash Concrete - • How To Acid Wash Concrete
How To Bond New Concrete To Old Concrete With A Latex Slurry - • How To Bond New Concre...
Bonding New Concrete To Old Concrete With SBR Latex - • Bonding New Concrete T...
How To Bond New Concrete To Old Concrete With PVA Slurry - • Bond New Concrete To O...
4 Ways To Bond New Concrete To Old Concrete - • 4 Ways To Bond New Con...
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How To Make Red Concrete - • How To Make Concrete Red
How To Make Black Concrete - • How To Make Concrete B...
Colored Concrete Results - • Colored Concrete Results
#swimmingpoolsteve #concrete 
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This is an excellent example of a proper "how to" presentation - very informative, easy to understand, no unnecessary chit chat or attempts at humour. Thanks ever so much!!
And no dam blaring guitar at the beginning !
It absolutely is. I've got it bookmarked for use as an example to show students.
I agree. To the point and informative. Thank you.
Yes, very good. Clear instruction with no "filler" chit, chat.
Unnecessary attempts at humor? Wow you sound like you’re fun to be around 🙄
Straight forward, quick, clear. Holy cow, a rarity on youtube. Thanks.
As a structural engineer who has worked in concrete industry I can verify the information as accurate and succinct!
***Thanks***
Not in structural compression or shear only for cover applications.
Still considered a "cold joint" as per ACI ASCE etc.
No white glue or any organic based material is ever allowed in any certified job...
There are products engineered for this .
Hello Steve thanks for sharing your knowledge, could anyone please advise on whether same technique could be used for spalled concrete ceilings ?
@@arthurdavis3365 I have question if U don’t mind. There is a vault of a friend that the headstone was knocked over and cracked, the concrete top. I’m no concrete man by far but have used sealants that don’t hold up well. I was thinking fill crack which is pretty big it split the concrete top and fill with foam then come over with a mortar of some type. I realize it won’t look great but I’m trying to stop rain water from entering vault... it seems the immediate family isn’t going to do anything and I’m limited to what I can do. Thanks for any suggestions!!!
My hero...
I've been building, repairing and servicing gunite swimming pools for 23 years yet I'm still learning so much watching your videos. These are great tips that will come in handy with my everyday job. Thanks a ton Steve.
Since your an expert what type of in ground pool is best for northeast climates?
Vinyl liner ?
Thanks
I've done many patches in the last 45 years. You got it. Be sure your slurry is still tacky when you put your new concrete down. I patched a floor in 1977 it's still holding.
Excellent you added the point he skipped. Awesome. In adding a glass stepping design in top , what could I pour over too to give a protective clear coat ? Would well bond on top work do you think, or do they make an acrylic clear over coat for concrete ??
@Mike Palacios It means that slurry is still wet. You mix it and apply it to the old concrete and then apply your new concrete right away before the slurry becomes dry.
@Mike Palacios my thoughts as well
@@Swimmingpoolsteve How much glue?
By far one of the best how-to videos I've seen on RUclips. Clear and concise. A big thumbs up.
Dude explained the instructions better than watching actual vid tutorials. Your thought process and info delivery is insanely clear
This is literally the issue I'm facing, and you've answered the query beautifully. Thank you tons! I feel confident enough to tackle the problem. Well done. Great video :)
Excellent video, perfect for the layman or experienced contractor alike, don't miss a step here. This is critical for any concrete fill work where you have to add new concrete to existing. In my case, during initial foundation plumbing pipe-set for a slab, the plumber missed a few floor drains and set other pipes in the wrong place, so when it came time for plumbing rough-in, The plumber had to break up a lot of concrete. This video was perfect for detailing how the concrete should be replaced in those holes to ensure a strong bond and continuity.
Back in the 90's I often did exactly as Steve explained, sort of. I would make a mix of Burke bonder (or Dymalite, depending on the color I was looking for) and water and saturate the concrete. Then I would put dry Portland in a burlap sack and "slap" the prepared surface leaving a thin layer. Spritz that layer with more Burke and water and repeat. When the coating was thick enough I left it alone for a few then buffed it with the Portland bag as it went off. The final finish shined like a freshly sealed shop floor with an eye-catching swirl pattern. Haven't thought of that in years, thanks. Subbed.
I had to look ALL OVER for this info. THANK YOU! Seven to one muriatic acid and then dampen down and then bonding slurry. Ugh! You’re the only one giving these steps in an easy to follow steps. THANK YOU
After acid you wither need to wash it like 10 times to neutralize the pH, or just wash it with TSP after acid washing it and this will stop the concrete from being super acidic which would likely cause a patch failure some point in the future
You’re a good teacher! Clear instructions and repetition. Great video. Thanks
Most informational video I've seen yet on concrete bonding old to new... thank you
That's how we patch small divots on our state bridges, great job. For large repairs, epoxy rebar into the existing concrete making sure there's the specified rebar clearances.
What are rebar clearances?
@@mar4380 basically the space between the rebar and the existing concrete and also the distance of the rebar from the outer edge of the concrete. The idea being that new concrete or slurry should surround the rebar at a specified distance.
That distance varies depending on the application.
Excellent job on this video. Clear, concise, to the point and no BS or comedy attempts.
Thanks ! I need to repair my Mothers sidewalk so again thank you for your time and generosity to assist. That is really cool of you to help and thank you for the post.
Precise and concise! Bravo for such a well rounded out explanation all in one take!
On my own I came up with a similar method that worked. Of course clean the old concrete thoroughly (I used only water and a wire brush). Wet it down again. Mix your wet concrete and slurry at the same time. The slurry is a liquidy combination of portland cement and water. Apply the slurry to the old, wet concrete. Then I vigorously WIRE BRUSH the slurry into the old concrete, in essence, trying to force the slurry into its pores. Pour the new concrete immediately, before the slurry shows any signs of drying.
This worked for me under some pretty severe flooding conditions - no failure or delamination. Glad to hear I wasn't too far off in my method.
Thank you so much!.me and My old man have been faffing on trying to repair a small patch on our house.what a relief to have found you .
i agree with your advice. An uncle of mine plastered over hollow tile and it's lasted 40+ yrs. with polyvinylacetate
Well done! I do some concrete work (General Contractor) and I will remember this. Also, good job not blowing your own horn at the beginning and end of your video! You got right to the point!
I was wondering if I can ask a question. I have a concrete patio that has 3 old peeling layers of peeling paint. I'm looking for an inexpensive way to beautify the concrete. Do u think I can apply a layer of epoxy or bondo on peeling paint, let harden, add 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of concrete paint I will have a lasting finish?
Kudos to you for this informative and targeted video! And thanks for not turning this into a 20-minute rambling video like some RUclipsrs do
Steve. Thank you very much for your video and respect for time. Clean, no ads, straight to the point, no fluff and blim blim to add on. You just resume years of someone experience in less than 5 min. Keep content coming. New subscriber here!
Cheers and thanks for commenting.
blim blim? wha dat?
All "how to" videos should be this good. Nicely done- thank you
The new old school look = respect,Steve.
Your videos are solid !
Thank you :)
So muriatic acid, damp and slurry with glue before concrete. Got it.
And thank you for getting straight to the point.
Really well explained and thought through. Thanks Steve for being crystal clear
Thank you for commenting. Cheers.
Usually, a talking head approach is not effective; however, you made it work. You explained it so well in a forward moving yet repetitive fashion that it stuck!!!
Clear concise and no nonsense, excellent. Thank you.
Excellent video. Sometimes muriatic acid isn't possible to use and can be dangerous. You can also scarify the concrete using a grinder with a cupwheel. If you're working inside, a vacuum attachment shroud can be used on the grinder. A slurry of tile thinset mortar can also be used as a bonder between the new and old concrete. It's important that the slurry is still wet when you put the new concrete down.
This was added to my suggested videos on my RUclips home page. I don't own a swimming pool, but I do have a concrete driveway and garage floor. I will save this video so hopefully, I can find it again when and if I ever have to repair any of my concrete. Thank you for the tips.
Thanks for commenting. I figured that youtube must be showing this video to a lot of people since the views went up from a few hundred per day to a peak of just over 10,000 in a 24 hour period. When looking at the video analytics you can see like a light switch turning on when youtube decides to start showing it as a recommended video because the viewers suddenly increase by orders or magnitude.
Thank you so much for posting this video. I m dealing with porous rock called Coquina that was cemented to other porous Rock and now the cementing needs to be redone because plants are growing between the cracks. So now I have a much better idea what I need to do to correct this problem
Between the video and the remarks, this is a great resource
Most helpful. Also good sound quality and well-spoken. Wish all instructional videos were like this.
I do everything u described, instead of a cement slurry I use tile setting material(super flex) tec product for a bonding agent works very well for me. Thank you .
Excellent advice and explanation. I particularly liked the recipe for the prep slurry mix. Really useful and direct. Cheers!!
A great video, straight to the point
And very informative.
Thank you very much 👍
Nicely done and in just 4 minutes! And actually helpful. thanks
Thank you so much. I have learned the most from your videos. I am petrified to go do my project and have been putting it off though its just recornering a chipped slab and repointing a stone table and seats. I have watched your videos about 5 times now and I hope I have got it. I've never touched concrete before in my life. I said the same about the wrought iron fence I just refurbished too but I managed that. I guess I should trust myself more. Anyway, thank you for making this all far less scary. Wish me luck. :)
Very helpful. I was going to put new concrete onto my dry shower floor. I watched this right before I started and will be sure to dampen the old concrete
Something to mention just because some people don't know this, apply your final patch cement immediately after apply applying the slurry. Don't let the slurry dry at all.
You answered the very question that popped into my head when the video ended, thank you!
Thankyou I was looking for this exact question to be answered appreciated
Yup.
Thanks! last bit of info i needed
That was my 1st question..thanks!
I use a good high quality polymer modified thinset for my slurry and have had great success.
good video Steve .... right to the point ..... didn't spend 10 minutes telling us everything you did this morning ..... "How to patch concrete , but first , this is my kitchen table , I got it at a garage sale yesterday ..... blah blah blah"
This is by far the quickest most professional video I have ever seen. And, I watch 100+ videos a day. LOL Thank you friend
Great video and tips, glad that I read through a lot of the comments and responses.
I feel confident enough to rip out a small pipe someone laid across my garage door entrance and cemented in that is all cracked up now.... I got this 💪 pro style.
Thanks.
If you have to skip the slurry, due to a lack of pure portland, the concrete adhesive or thinned PVA glue can be brushed directly onto the wet/damp surface that you intend to bond to. Apply your first skim coat before the PVA dries.
I really like how right to the point you are. Very efficient ! Other youtubers might want to take tips on how to give a how to.
This is the information I am looking for. You have explained this clearly. I definately going to try this. Thank you so much sir. I salute you.
Something I never knew I am more educated now to this thanks👍
I am happy this was able to help you - cheers
The terminology that's missing is "bonding agent" and it's commonly available. (I suspect that it may actually be glorified white glue.) It's used by painting it onto clean concrete (critical point of yours) and applying new concrete or mortar to it. I've had good results with it. It can also separately be used as an additive to the concrete's water mix to enhance the integrity of the concrete. (Not as an alternative to applying bonding agent to an old surface.) Another technique for bonding new concrete to old is by scrubbing the new concrete into the surface of the old concrete with a stiff brush before finishing the repair normally. That also does the trick. Great video, thank you.
Yep, multi bond here in NZ. Awesome for tiles or anything you wanna make stick
Just got the recommendation for this today. Fantastic video. Concise and covers everything!
Excellent! Clear and concise. I need to add a bump strip on my garage entrance to channel water from the garage door. Obviously when dealing with water you need a strong bond.
I would probably drill pins in for something like this so the new concrete is secured to the old very well. For water permeation I would use a latex additive for the slurry, like the one I make in this video: ruclips.net/video/DA-fCRRxYCw/видео.html
IMPORTANT UPDATE - This video is a simplified explanation of how to bond concrete. In response to how popular this video is I created a much deeper article about concrete bonding, using many of the comments and products mentioned in the comments here. PLEASE READ the full article: www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/bond-concrete.html
This video is suddenly getting a lot of views. Here is a question that was asked by quite a few people so far - WHEN do you apply the new concrete? Do you let the slurry set up or slurry then concrete right away. Here is the answer I gave to someone else down further in the comments:
Do NOT let the bonding slurry set. If it sets, you need to add more bonding slurry and wet it up again, so try not to let that happen. On a technical note, if I were to describe the PERFECT situation, it would not be putting concrete over wet slurry either. If you had to err on the side of caution, add the new cement over wet slurry, never dry, but the magic middle zone is to watch the slurry. When you apply it, it looks wet. Sheen even. The perfect time to apply the new layer of concrete is when the slurry begins to have a haze look, as opposed to wet sheen. This is the ideal point at which to add the patch. NEVER over dry slurry though so be careful.
When It is more effective in summer or rainy season?
@@kamleshverma9761 I don't understand your question. Solid concrete working fundamentals apply regardless of the season or climate. If you are asking about optimal environment for doing this work, certainly cooler and damp is better than hot and dry.
I work for a place that hires modular formwork and we sell that bonding stuff. Customers get it on the plywood and it's almost impossible to get off without destroying the black film on the plywood.
@@OffGridInvestor You bet - it is a universal bonding agent which basically allows you to glue anything to anything - within reason. Glue glass together even! The bond on wood, much like with wood glue, creates a joint between two planed surfaces that is essentially as strong as one piece of wood. For this concrete bonding slurry you actually don't use very much. However much water you would be using just use 10% less water and make up that difference with Weldbond. It really is not just gluing concrete, but it does make a difference with how sticky the mix is, and how well it bonds. Further to this, for any other people reading this in the comments here, this is not my special trick or anything - a bonding slurry with Weldbond is the industry accepted practice for bonding new concrete to old concrete...that is unless you are like me and own a shotcrete company because then you can bond with shotcrete and no intermediary layer required and there is ZERO cold joint even under labratory conditions. If you don't want to spend $30,000 on a gunite rig then your next best option is this slurry. Thanks for reading and be sure to subscribe!
Swimming Pool Steve utter rubbish u forgot to cut and pva
I was going to say, PVA white glue every time with concrete...works a charm!
thanks for the tip (lesson) steve... I will apply what i learned from you to my friend's garage concrete floor.😊
He's a bad man in a good way , listening and doing it the way this gentleman said , you can't go wrong .
In California, we use a bushing hammer to rough up the old concrete and then epoxy in rebar to connect the old to new pours.
Well Done, I now can tackle my project with confidence. Very good Description of all contents needed. thanks and have a Great Day along with a high 5, and 2 thumb's Up!!
Mmpppnppppppppppolplpp lppplollpppplplplpplpllpppplpppplplpppkpñpppmlpppppp l well was p9lpplplpp9
Thankyou so so so much . I have failed many a times doing bonding but now I got the know- how . ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️ From Kerala, India.
Great advice. I would add, don't let the slurry dry before installing your concrete.
True. It seems obvious, but, many people don't even
Dumb and dumber if you mix glue with the slurry and let it dry it's not porus any my more nothing to bond to.
I believe I did hear him mention that the concrete needs to go on the slurry before it dries.
I'm want to do some resurfacing, thank you for the info. well explained
Jeez, this is one of the best 'how-to' videos on here ... almost makes me want to go and smash up the patio a little bit just so I can go and fix it
Great video!!! Every video to help some1 should be less than 5 minutes like this.
Except the ones REALLY explaining rocket science.
Thank You!!! this is exactly what I needed to know!!
Glad it helped you. Cheers.
The surface can then be prepared using one of a variety of methods, including acid etching, sand blasting, shot blasting, scarifying, or bush hammering. In most cases, the rougher the prepared substrate, the better the bond.
Two kinds of polyvinyl acetate (PVA) bonding agents I know of are re-emulsifiable and non-re-emulsifiable. White and Yellow Carpenter's glue respectively. White is not recommended for outdoors or damp situations but even Carpenter's glue is not exactly impervious to water either and is only "resistant".
That said, I use acrylics, SBR, latex-modified, or epoxy depending on the situation and would never advise otherwise. It is more important to me to have a product designed for that use and with a proven track record.
Thanks. Your channel is a Solomon's key of pool knowledge along with illuminaing knowledge of mortar.I now know my points of failure in my concrete patch. So many mistakes that I made. Thumbed up and subscribed.
Awesome tips, we actually do this on site. Only found out how to on the job, wished I'd knew when we were renovating our house back in the day. Gonna be useful when we self build another home in future!
Very well explained. Thanks for sharing professional information.
I am happy this info was helpful for you. Cheers.
My old father used white glue in concrete he poured 60 years ago and it's still good!
Great, straight-to-the-point video. I'm just a self-taught handyman around the house, and I've very successfully used a latex concrete additive for patching and building up concrete surfaces using about 1/3 additive to 2/3 water and topping compound. After I mix up enough patching material for the job I pour a small amount of the additive/water mix on top and stir it around into the top of the mix to form a loose slurry, which I then trowel onto the surface I'm patching or building up and then use a cheap stiff-bristle brush to scrub it well on the surface so it'll bond, then the rest of the material for that area/spot. I then trowel that back-and-forth to get it to mix with the slurry layer and finish as the task requires. If the area was oily or obviously dirty I would want to clean that kind of stuff away first. Doing more than about an inch thick I had to do it in layers. I used the latex additive because I just figured having a bit of flexibility would be a good thing as long as I had it well-bonded to the substrate.
About 5 years ago I had to recountour most of a 12'x12' concrete patio to get it to drain the right direction and the poured-concrete steps that led up to it, which all sloped noticeably to inside corners. The layers have held up perfectly and did not delaminate from the substrate so far. I'm in the UP of Michigan. I have to do this in larger-scale in my garage, and will definitely use the acid idea for the final clean on the surface since many decades of cars have been dripping oil on that floor!
Use TSP and a wire brush for oil before you use the acid. If super baked in do a soak with varsol to pull up the oil, then rinse, then TSP, then rinse, then acid wash, then TSP (I secretly work for TSP, apparently) and that is the best you will do for deep soaked oil concrete preparation for bonding a new layer. Or chip that old junk out and pour a thicker top coat. Your latex and water mix is right on the money for a super strong and oil / chemical resistant concrete bond that will not fail under constant water immersion. There are more than one way to do things and I would say your method is somewhere between the method disussed for DIY handy people, and how a professional concrete worker might approach the mix and slurry design. Cheers.
I've done your method on stucco and it works.
That was really useful. I just started making cement sculptures and since I have to do it in several stages (so the vertical does not end up horizontal on the floor) over several days, I need a good bond between different parts. From your experience, how much time do I have before this thin layer of slurry dries? Also, when replacing Weldbond with PVA glue, do you use the same proportion? Thanks in advance
Great video! From my understanding diamond grinding the area to be re-coated is superior for bonding new concrete over acid washing. Have you used this method before?
Sure do, especially for tile work but be sure to have a rough grit diamond cup as you do not want the concrete to be smooth at all. The rougher the better for adhesion of the new layer, and this is why there are so many comments in here about pinning, scarrifying and scabbling which are all intended to increase the texture and surface area of the old surface such that the new layer will adhere better.
Would this work on a concrete flat roof?
Thank you sir, I remembered this video since few months ago and now I need this
liked and subbed to a clear concise video. this gonna save me time on most applications. What i used to do was drill in mechanical fixings when doing a concrete seal over galvanized sheets when doing repairs to existing work but now i think the white glue would be a good option.
Recently tho i was doing gate posts and hit solid rock about 14 inches down so I anchored in a couple of sleeve anchors into the rock and screwed threaded rod into them . Worked great. Kinda like rebar coming up out of a foundation.
Do not use white glue/pva because it can re-emulsify under wet conditions. It needs to be an SBR Latex additive mixed with the cement. Best way is to scabble/gouge the surface with a chisel point to give it a roughness, acid wash, high pressure clean, use some form of 316 SS anchor/pins fixed to the existing substrate with resin, dampen the surface, use the slurry mix brushed on thick immediately prior to laying the new concrete.For best results use a polymer modified concrete patching compound with the same brand of primer. After poured use a concrete curing compound sprayed over the repair following manufacturers directions, or cover with a plastic sheet 👍
If you ask me this is by far the best repair technique that I could think of I was about to suggest the underpinning and gouging and or dovetailing but yes indeed you are spot on!
In most cases the concrete is beyond repair, fixing it would be temporary. The concrete beneath your patch job will most likely continue to deteriorate. A home owner can only hope it can be fixed, but your method is probably there best chance at prolonging the inevitable.
Great video. I particularly like the visual aids you provide, demonstrating the process.
Excellent content!
This is precisely what I was seeking today.
I tip my hat to you, good sir! Thank you!
Acid wash work very well with vinegar mixed w a little bit of dish soap.
@Oftin Wong .... I don't give Q that I did not test myself. It works !
Come back in 20 years and let us know. lol
I agree with everything you say, however as to PVA glue (white glue) there are two types one is of which is permanent set or waterproof, for use in heavy water saturation applications, the other is water soluble that will deteriorate when wet.
...so which one to use?
Yes. A very informative and to the point video.
Thank you. This is very helpful.
I got a few pits in my in-ground pool I need to fix. This video has helped me.
You should read this article as I think an underwater repair would be better suited for an acrylic latex modified bonding agent: www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/bond-concrete.html
*Thank you very much for sharing your wisdom !!!*
Allow me to ask:
1. After acidifying the old surface, do you need to wait for some time before proceeding to the next step (wetting it thoroughly)? If yes, then for how long?
2. What is the *ratio of Portland cement: water: white glue ?*
Please read the full article that contains this information here: www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/bond-concrete.html
Muriatic acid = Hydrochloric acid .
Portland = cement.
White glue = PVA = (polyvinylacetate).
If you are interested in more technical breakdowns of bonding agents please read the full article: www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/bond-concrete.html
Oh, come on people, I thought you only changed the name of football to soccer, now you are messing up with the hydrochloric acid name? 😁 Why?
@D Mills We are mighty pissed off, you cant even spell colour you call a podger an Irish spanner, you call a split pin a cotter pin, god only knows what you call an actual cotter pin. Chips become fries and what you call chips we call crisps, trunk for boot, you put light switches up, we put them down, you wear your pants on the outside, we wear them on the inside. And I have to add lol :/)
@@MrHughk1 But you chaps (folks) drive on the wrong side of the road.
@D Mills Fuck you, I was just joining in the joke but you turned out to be a fuckwit.
My dad taught me the WeldBond trick many, many years ago. It really does work!
Very good and correct information. The same goes for painting concrete, it must be clean and must be slightly damp.
In some cases, instead of acid washing, mechanically abrading with a wire brushes, or grinding the concrete can expose clean material, that can them be vacuumed and washed to prepare for a slurry. Thanks for the video!
I use an acrylic latex bonding agent that has been around since the 60's. It really works great and its inexpensive . You treat the concrete surface to be repaired with diluted Muratic acid, rinse it off then put some bonding agent in some water brush it on the concrete to be repaired. You can then add some of it to a slurry brush it on . Then apply the mix for the resurface / crack fill. Portland and sand mix add a little bonding agent to that with the water then apply to cracks then resurface let it dry and it works great. It sticks like crazy and looks great for years. Put some sealer on it to help it last and resist salt. I use fiberglass drywall tape strips for some cracks stuffed in the crack with a putty knife sometimes if it is over 1/4 inch wide.
I wrote a more detailed follow up article here that includes info on the latex acrylic options: www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/bond-concrete.html
Thanks for the great info. I'm going to be working on resurfacing some messy concrete areas and this is awesome info.
Excellent practical, no-nonsense tips. Thank you.
Scabble the surface, flush the dust with plain water, dab treated surface so it is only damp, then apply new concrete. No chemicals, no corrosion, no nuetralisation worries.
Hey Steve. How thicker should the new layer of concrete be in order to NOT crack - considering it’s a driveway?
Are you fixing a hole or rebuilding the structure? With a topping layer I do not believe that you would want to go any thinner than 1/2" but this is called an overlay and is different than fixing a pothole in a concrete driverway, for example. Overlays need to be modified with acrylic latex and I would not want to use a latex modified topping mix with a PVA based slurry like in this video. Better to use an acrylic slurry with an acrylic topping mix...but for overlays, again this is a specialty process and different from patching concrete. I suspect epoxy based adhesives would be the recommendation of engineers.
Excellent video. Clearly explained and easy to follow. Thank you!
nice one .. learning something every day 75 years young ..
When you're wetting down the old concrete, add a little dish soap to the water. It acts as a surfactant and will help everything bond even better.
I have used a tiny bit of dish soap in with my vermiculite concrete mixes to help to be a little slicker on the trowel for finishing. I have never heard of soap being used at any point of the bonding process before - very interesting and unique comment. I will have to look into this further. Cheers.
Dont forget keeping the new concrete moist/covered for the first 30 days.
Great tip that nobody mentioned yet. Cheers.
@MARC D. Yup.
30 days???
@@porthugiz1 Yep, Google "cure time for concrete". And methods to help cure.
That is a fact, but I've never seen anybody do it for more than a few days.
Great informations! And it was free! I had my stoop redone with the contractors using your technique and it looks great after multiple seasons.
Damn right I'm subscribing. Hit that notification bell. Just what I needed Steve thank you.
After using marantic acid, you rinse with TSP or Ammonia to neutralize the surface back to a neutral PH of 7. Other wise the acetic PH of the surface will interfere with the bonding. Period. Don't forget to neutralize after using Marantic wash solution.
Marantic acid? Ammonia (NH3)??
*Acetic* PH???
Marantic acid, again?
My heart...
@ You forgot to inhale deeply during the process
@ to much to handle? Then simply just hire a pro....!:-)