Thank you for sharing your knowledge and talent! Researching how to attach a broken statue to new cement for hours because I was told not to do that…never did I expect to hit lotto and click on your page…less alone ever think I would actually have the materials needed! Well bond for mosaics and adding strength to cement…and the fresh Qt. SikaLatex bonding adhesive I add to my pouring medium for acrylic paint pouring!!! Now to hope that the statue lasts for decades!!! Thank you!! I knew it could be done! 😂
My wife and I are about to extend our patio and the idea of just putting new concrete down and nothing to bond the existing concrete with didn’t sit well with us. So thank you for this video!
Appreciate the knowledge. I just finished my prep on a fairly large public swimming pool and was looking for a proper slurry coat application to fact check my knowledge. Can’t have kiddos in the pool and patches flaking off now can we 😅. Keep posting and remember folks, a clean trowel, is a happy trowel.
Thanks for your video really useful information. How long do I leave the slurry bonding coat before applying the concrete does the slurry coat need to be wet or dry?
If you start with the water bottle and take that bottle to measure your glue, it would make more sense. Anyhow, this was just the information I was looking for! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much for your excellent and very informative videos! After viewing most of your videos related to the bonding of old and new concretes, I think I found what I should do to keep my small, about 5"x7"x0.4", flagstones bonded to the top edges of my concrete pool to prevent them from falling down sections by sections into the pool. First, I should choose Latex slurry according to you instructions. Since the stones needs to be bonded to vertical walls, should I add metal screens, such as gutter screens, by pressing it between the old and new slurries? To prevent the stone from separating from the slurries by falling down from its own weight when the slurries are still wet, I am also considering to bend the bottom of 90 degree outward to support the stone when it is sticked to the slurry convering the old concretes. From your practical experienece, please advise if adding metal screens is necessary.
Hello. Love all of your vids. I'm OD-ing on them!- Can you Please tell me if i can use this bonding agent with an EXPANDING cement for use in filling cracks in concrete Basement wall ? ie will it impede the Expansion?
If you have a corner of a house step 2 inch ish in size that broke off.. can you reattach it back in place with this slurry ? and idealy make it so yo udon’t see the crack seem too much ?
That's what I was wondering for my concrete patio, which has a puddle of 1/2" max feathering out to 0. He says you can't feather with patching materials. (I'll be painting over this repair.)
thks so much for your detail information. i am planning resurface my driveway. after i apply my bonding slurry, how long should i wait until i can put my skim coat concrete on top? thks for sharing
You probably already know this since it's been a year. A comment in another video said, the slurry should be wet. Don't let the slurry dry. Apply slurry to damp repair area and then apply your patch product.
your video was great and thank you for it. i had a tile repair done a few years ago(by Coronado's for $2,000) and it all fell off. I noticed that the concrete behind the tile needed repair. Thanks to your video and some hard work(some concrete repair,cracks, etc.) I THINK I am ready to tile. My question is, can I tile over the slurry? The whole space did not need concrete repair, so some is just slurry surface now. Your answer would be greatly appreciated. Again thank you!
Can i use this to glue two pieces of broken concrete planter together? It split almost perfectly in two pieces, so i was thinking it would make sense to use cement based slurry to glue it back together rather than purely polymer adhesive.
Thank you for this. Can it be used on a vertical surface given it is pretty runny? Any harm in using the bonding agent over white glue when not a water related repair?
Help! That’s what I want to know?? It’s my first time working with cement. The video was a great help but I need an answer to this question I wish you would’ve told us.
1. wet cement... 2. paint on slurry 3. spread the top coat, no waiting. Do one area at a time. Just make sure to re wet the surface if needed. This isn't rocket science.
how would you use this to attache pavers to the top of open cinder blocks? Slurry on top of the blocks then mortar? Slurry on the pavers too? I only ask because the last time I did this on a lake sea wall... the pavers did not adhere well at all to the cinder blocks with just plain mortar.
Great Video. Am looking to add 60-70mm to an existing slab, 5m x 3m to build up an existing 75mm slab for a backyard shed. Due to site access complications, I'd probably have to use readymix concrete bags in a cement mixer, and add water, which would make the slab pour more gradual, so I'd be worried about the bonding slurry drying in some areas before they receive the actual pour on top. Could I add a bonding agent direct to the premix and water in the cement mixer maybe?
Never used portland or concrete. When you finished hand mixing, there are still some clumps. Are those small stones or just maybe in need of a bit more mixing and breaking them down? Or perhaps, they are small enough clumps that while smearing it onto a surface the smearing tool can be used to further smoosh those lumps into uniform paste?
Great video, I have patched my pool that had surface holes and very small pinholes as well. The pool was built in 1988 and just now needed some attention. I am wanting to use white portland cement and this bonding agent seems to be a great idea. Paint it on two coats and dry for 48 hours. Is this something that can be done? I see a company that sells a roll-on plaster - but to do my pool their product will cost me a little over $2,000 for two coats. Any suggestions are welcomed - thank you.
you need a plaster on top of the concrete. If RollOn plaster is expensive, you can make you own plaster by mixing 1:2 Portland concrete with marble dust
I just made some slurry using PVA glue, water and cement. I painted it in with a brush and then cemented over it. I hope it works. Because if it doesn't I'm up shit creak without a paddle.
You lay the new topping immediately. FYI since you mentioned plaster, PVA or modified PVA is usually used for plaster renders as opposed to latex as shown is the video above. Both could work depending on your application, but plaster is commonly associated with PVA. ruclips.net/video/ElNThXvtJ18/видео.html&lc=z23bsjswkxexwbbfxacdp433ho1pdyuoq03xptfo3tpw03c010c
@@treepro100 Thanks for the suggestion Brian. What we did was to clean and saturate the surface of the old concrete with a pressure washer. This produces the condition known as "saturated surface dry" or SSD. While still damp we brushed on an SBR and cement grout and while that was still tacky applied the render mix to the walls of our pool. It's vital not to let the grout dry but as long as it doesn't the bond is really good. Not cheap and a bit fussy but SBR sticks like nobody's business. For the final skim coat of render I used an SBR and cement grout again then a thin coat of mortar made from fine paving sand, SBR, cement and water. This coat was only a few millimetres thick but because of the SBR it has stuck and hasn't cracked. I think a skim coat using white cement, white sand, SBR and a cobalt pigment might be an alternative to pool paint. Needs testing though as UV affects SBR over time. Perhaps grout with SBR but don't use it in the final coat
Is bonding slurry used in addition to products like liquid bonding adhesives that you can roll on old damp concrete? (such as Quickcrete makes) Or is applying bonding slurry of this kind sufficient on its own before pouring new concrete on top of old?
We have a concrete patio that was poured (1965'ish) right up against the foundation footer of our home to the walkout basement. Up until this year, it was not covered and exposed to the elements for all those years. Right where the footer meets the patio at the doorway, there are quite a few large holes where pieces of the footer have broken off and are deep crevices where even a couple weeds are growing through. Once I get the area cleaned up (figuring chipping away some of the old concrete, then TSP and water), should I use acrylic latex or PVA for this application? It may get some moisture, but is fully covered now. I tried to repair it a couple of years ago and just used a vinyl concrete repair product, and that caused an even bigger looking mess. Thanks for your vidoes!! These have helped a lot and hopefully, this type of application will work for me.
Yes you can. If the concrete patch is located in a permanently dry area then this would work fine. However in wet areas the glue will re-emulsify. You can find products similar to PVA (white glue) but are modified to not re-emulsify when exposed to water. Preferably for water applications use the latex method shown in this video above.
Anyone know where I can find "regular old Portland powder"? I've searched the Internet and all I can find is Portland cement (with additives) or Quikcrete with even more additives such as sand. Thanks.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve what happens if you're like me and think you have to let the slurry dry first? I did that yesterday. Can I just wet it down with water and, in my case, mortar up my foundation crack or do I have to put more slurry on and then fill the crack with the mortar mix the same day?
I ended up adding 70% water + 30% of the acrylic fortifier to quikrete multipurpose high strength concrete to fix a concrete slab and increase its water proof properties...so far it looks good but we will see if it last!
Hello and thank you for the information. I am planning on a garage re model and one of the main problem areas is the floor. One question I have is if the slurry should be wet or dry when I apply the new concrete? My garage is almost 500sqft so I really dont want to make a simple mistake like that that might cause it to fail. Also would love your opinion on what brand/type I should use for the final surface that can take a lot of abuse. I plan to paint the floor as well. It is a very busy garage, having built over 5 cars within the last 4 years and I have another two builds starting this september. Thank you for your time and have a great day.
I hope this isn't too late. In another video he said the slurry should be wet. So clean the area of debris/dust, then wash with 50/50 muriatic acid and water. Dampen the area to be repaired with water, apply the slurry and right away apply your patch cement product.
Nice video, what do you suggest to level the floor (concrete slab), as there is a sink in part ( around 1-2 inches) towards the edge of the slab! If I use self leveling it will be very costly as the area is quite large ( 4 by 6 feet into 2 inches!!).
You could form up the area and place and finish the concrete just like you would any other floor. The only problem is the new mix should not zero out, which means it can not blend down to zero thickness. It really should be laid at 1/2" minimum thickness so this must involve cutting or chipping out some of the existing slab.
hello i am a 69 year old female unable to pay a mason to repair. I have a painted cement two step kind of well to the back door of my raised ranch house. the cinderblocks are painted but have large chips in places. That I would like to repair. I will attempt your video instructions. i've always been handy to it may not turn out a work of art but i will give it a try. Will the slurry adhere to the painted areas?? Any suggestions would be appreciated. thank you.
Say you want to bond a old concreted statue to concrete. Could you just use 100% slurry mix only without also adding new concrete if you mixed it thicker
The slurry helps the concrete to grab onto the surfaces, but slurry is not strong like mortar or concrete is so I would say that you need to slurry both sides but you do want some mortar in between to hold the sandwich together. 1" probably the minimum I would use for any appreciable strength.
Please Steve I am trying to make a waterproofing agent for my Pool before tiling the Surface of the Pool,what do you think about Portland Cement, Acrylic will it work well?
Absolutely not! You will not be able to make a waterproof coating for your pool. You DEFINITELY should buy a product for this like Basecrete, Hydroban or Redgard and the right one will depend on the detail of your pool. What you are doing will absolutely not make this pool waterproof or anything approaching waterproof. Another possible solution is Xypex which can be integral in the mix or applied topically after the fact. Good luck !
Hello Alexander, you will need to get your old concrete wet. Next, you will add the slurry. Then, you will add brick. Make sure you are only adding enough slurry to put on 1 maybe two brick. Then apply more slurry then a few more bricks and repeat
Portland cement. In this cade type 10 portland cement. The name will be different depending on your location. Type 1, type 10, type N (normal) and type GU (general use) would all work for this application
50% acrylic adhesive to 50% water (500ml adhesive + 500ml H2O) plus Portland cement powder added until it looks like he shows in the video. It's not runny or thick.
White concrete seems to be more privileged than other concretes. I would refrain from using it and maybe give another minority concrete the opportunity instead.
You neglect to mention what to do AFTER pasting the wet slurry on to the damp concrete (to receive the bonded patch)--which is kind of the point of your video, no? Apply the concrete patch to the slurry layer while it remains damp, or after it dries completely? This is why this question is asked so often in the comments for this video.
You got all those lumps because you added the portland into the water instead of starting with it add water then bonding agent it would have been smooth, like custard.
If you are using a specialty mix or proprietary blend then you must follow the use instructions that they give you. Anything else would be risking a process or chemical that conflicts with something they use in their mix design.
Infact... never use PVA as a primer/bonding slurry/admixture with cement in any outdoor application... or indoor even. I just dont see the point when you can use an SBR. Thats why all the retail purchased slurrys/additives/2 part mixes from Mapei or Laticrete etc.. are all Latex based.. PVA is wood glue, end of story. Ive seen some companys try and sell a slurry compound and it has been cheaper and i rang and asked... PVA based... just dont bother.
SBR latex will outperform latex acrylic or PVA under some conditions, but it is also the least UV stable and can not be exposed to direct sunlight. It needs paint or mechanical cover or it will fail like an elastic band left out in the sun. PVA is also less of a problem when using modified concrete mixes where acrylic latex and SBR latex can both conflict with admixtures such as accellerants and other polymers. There is no one use fits all application with concrete or concrete bonding, and that is why there is not just one bottle of SBR latex on the shelf.
I had a paper towel soaked with water and wood glue from doing cleanup on a wood project. I threw the paper towel down on the concrete floor, figuring I would pick it up later. Well that paper towel was stuck to my garage floor for at least a year before I took some brute force to get it off from there, it was unsightly. But for a whole year I had been nagging at it, hahaha. It was wood glue ment for outdoor use and sub zero temperatures...
@@Swimmingpoolsteve my front yard is 466sq ft I want to level it with a color in the cement for the drive way which is 198 sq ft. The rest of the yard I want to tile with porcelain non skid. Please direct me on the procedure. Thanks
@@Swimmingpoolsteve Hello, Could you advise please, I want to tile my rooms with porcelain in my country PVA bond is available to mix with Portland cement mortar , Do you think PVA is best or SBR to be used for mortar please?
chunky cake batter in this video but that is because I was using up some old portland cement that had been sitting for a few years. It was not actuated yet and the drill and whip got it looking like cake batter.
What i can do to my work at my Chimney crown is to scrub with wire brush and shop vac the surface, would it be good for? Its an old crown made wrong years old, it had not rain overhang edges, so i will make another crown on top with the edges
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and talent! Researching how to attach a broken statue to new cement for hours because I was told not to do that…never did I expect to hit lotto and click on your page…less alone ever think I would actually have the materials needed! Well bond for mosaics and adding strength to cement…and the fresh Qt. SikaLatex bonding adhesive I add to my pouring medium for acrylic paint pouring!!! Now to hope that the statue lasts for decades!!! Thank you!! I knew it could be done! 😂
SPSteve should be on those mainstream hardware store commercials! much better and right to the point.
U r the champion and honest advice for people 😊
My wife and I are about to extend our patio and the idea of just putting new concrete down and nothing to bond the existing concrete with didn’t sit well with us. So thank you for this video!
If you are extending a pad you would want to dowel into the existing pad with steel pins to help anchor one pad to the other.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve do you have a video on this?
Thanks a lot from Kazakhstan! Your suggestions is very useful!!!
Say hi to borat
Appreciate the knowledge. I just finished my prep on a fairly large public swimming pool and was looking for a proper slurry coat application to fact check my knowledge. Can’t have kiddos in the pool and patches flaking off now can we 😅.
Keep posting and remember folks, a clean trowel, is a happy trowel.
Thanks for your video really useful information. How long do I leave the slurry bonding coat before applying the concrete does the slurry coat need to be wet or dry?
I saw other videos and they say don't let Slurry dry so I'm thinking the thin consistency will dry fast ..so apply right away
Very well explained. 👍
.... Especially so, the difference between the two types of bonding agents.
If you start with the water bottle and take that bottle to measure your glue, it would make more sense. Anyhow, this was just the information I was looking for! Thanks for sharing.
thank you swimming pool Steve
Thank you so much for your excellent and very informative videos! After viewing most of your videos related to the bonding of old and new concretes, I think I found what I should do to keep my small, about 5"x7"x0.4", flagstones bonded to the top edges of my concrete pool to prevent them from falling down sections by sections into the pool. First, I should choose Latex slurry according to you instructions. Since the stones needs to be bonded to vertical walls, should I add metal screens, such as gutter screens, by pressing it between the old and new slurries? To prevent the stone from separating from the slurries by falling down from its own weight when the slurries are still wet, I am also considering to bend the bottom of 90 degree outward to support the stone when it is sticked to the slurry convering the old concretes. From your practical experienece, please advise if adding metal screens is necessary.
Hello. Love all of your vids. I'm OD-ing on them!- Can you Please tell me if i can use this bonding agent with an EXPANDING cement for use in filling cracks in concrete Basement wall ? ie will it impede the Expansion?
Very helpful. Thanks!
can you add some coarse sand to your mix ?
If you have a corner of a house step 2 inch ish in size that broke off.. can you reattach it back in place with this slurry ? and idealy make it so yo udon’t see the crack seem too much ?
I wondered if this mixture would have the strength to use as floor leveling compound ( which is expensive)
That's what I was wondering for my concrete patio, which has a puddle of 1/2" max feathering out to 0. He says you can't feather with patching materials. (I'll be painting over this repair.)
thks so much for your detail information. i am planning resurface my driveway. after i apply my bonding slurry, how long should i wait until i can put my skim coat concrete on top? thks for sharing
You probably already know this since it's been a year. A comment in another video said, the slurry should be wet. Don't let the slurry dry. Apply slurry to damp repair area and then apply your patch product.
@@DonnaShanks thks so much for yr infomration
Thanks for the explanation. Does the technique work with fast cement too ?
Thanks for sharing this tips! 🙏
your video was great and thank you for it. i had a tile repair done a few years ago(by Coronado's for $2,000) and it all fell off. I noticed that the concrete behind the tile needed repair. Thanks to your video and some hard work(some concrete repair,cracks, etc.) I THINK I am ready to tile. My question is, can I tile over the slurry? The whole space did not need concrete repair, so some is just slurry surface now. Your answer would be greatly appreciated. Again thank you!
Excellent information.
Can i use this to glue two pieces of broken concrete planter together? It split almost perfectly in two pieces, so i was thinking it would make sense to use cement based slurry to glue it back together rather than purely polymer adhesive.
Thank you for this. Can it be used on a vertical surface given it is pretty runny? Any harm in using the bonding agent over white glue when not a water related repair?
Aproxometly how long after you paint this slurry on do you need to apply the new concrete?
Help! That’s what I want to know?? It’s my first time working with cement. The video was a great help but I need an answer to this question I wish you would’ve told us.
1. wet cement...
2. paint on slurry
3. spread the top coat, no waiting. Do one area at a time.
Just make sure to re wet the surface if needed.
This isn't rocket science.
@@johnherian781 Go Dude!...better without the rocket science but thanks
how would you use this to attache pavers to the top of open cinder blocks? Slurry on top of the blocks then mortar? Slurry on the pavers too? I only ask because the last time I did this on a lake sea wall... the pavers did not adhere well at all to the cinder blocks with just plain mortar.
Great Video. Am looking to add 60-70mm to an existing slab, 5m x 3m to build up an existing 75mm slab for a backyard shed. Due to site access complications, I'd probably have to use readymix concrete bags in a cement mixer, and add water, which would make the slab pour more gradual, so I'd be worried about the bonding slurry drying in some areas before they receive the actual pour on top. Could I add a bonding agent direct to the premix and water in the cement mixer maybe?
How’d it work
Never used portland or concrete. When you finished hand mixing, there are still some clumps. Are those small stones or just maybe in need of a bit more mixing and breaking them down? Or perhaps, they are small enough clumps that while smearing it onto a surface the smearing tool can be used to further smoosh those lumps into uniform paste?
That was due to old cement. New will not do that. It will be smooth
Can you use quickrete 5000? I don't have just Portland
What about using a concrete penetrant before applying the slurry? That would work also, right?
Great video, I have patched my pool that had surface holes and very small pinholes as well. The pool was built in 1988 and just now needed some attention. I am wanting to use white portland cement and this bonding agent seems to be a great idea. Paint it on two coats and dry for 48 hours. Is this something that can be done? I see a company that sells a roll-on plaster - but to do my pool their product will cost me a little over $2,000 for two coats. Any suggestions are welcomed - thank you.
you need a plaster on top of the concrete. If RollOn plaster is expensive, you can make you own plaster by mixing 1:2 Portland concrete with marble dust
Do you wait until the bonding slurry is dry before applying the new layer of concrete?
Does covering concrete/ concrete slurry slow the curing at all for more working time? or is the issue only avoiding sun/ heat?
steve - could you possibly use silica pool filter sand with regular portland to make pool plaster? cant find fine white silica around here.
Will this work on a flat roof that is slow to drain during the monsoon season?
Do you have a link to this product? I can see it is from Quckcrete but the label is covered by glare.
50/50 thank you sir.for the information.
I just made some slurry using PVA glue, water and cement.
I painted it in with a brush and then cemented over it. I hope it works. Because if it doesn't I'm up shit creak without a paddle.
did it work?
@@southbridgeforestHOA yes it did.
@@Billy_Bull_Sheeter I didnt use a bonding agent and had to chip and grind off three big staircase walls fml
@@alansabrosky3244 I have done that. In the past I've used a hammer and chisel. But more recently an SDS with a chisel attachment.
@@Billy_Bull_Sheeter Do you have to apply the new concrete when the slurry is still wet? That would be tricky. Cheers from Perth, Australia.
How does one dampen an old concrete that is vertical without the water simply running down to the base?
thank, the explanation is clear
Do you plaster over it immediately or can you leave it dry.
You plaster over it before it cures or you are screwed. Or at least so I heard in another video, haha. Search for Cement Slurry on RUclips.
You lay the new topping immediately. FYI since you mentioned plaster, PVA or modified PVA is usually used for plaster renders as opposed to latex as shown is the video above. Both could work depending on your application, but plaster is commonly associated with PVA. ruclips.net/video/ElNThXvtJ18/видео.html&lc=z23bsjswkxexwbbfxacdp433ho1pdyuoq03xptfo3tpw03c010c
Thanks Steve, I've been searching for information on how to bond to old concrete and at last I've found it
You can also put down A 1/2 inch wet mortar bed before Pouring on existing concrete
@@treepro100 Thanks for the suggestion Brian. What we did was to clean and saturate the surface of the old concrete with a pressure washer. This produces the condition known as "saturated surface dry" or SSD. While still damp we brushed on an SBR and cement grout and while that was still tacky applied the render mix to the walls of our pool. It's vital not to let the grout dry but as long as it doesn't the bond is really good. Not cheap and a bit fussy but SBR sticks like nobody's business. For the final skim coat of render I used an SBR and cement grout again then a thin coat of mortar made from fine paving sand, SBR, cement and water. This coat was only a few millimetres thick but because of the SBR it has stuck and hasn't cracked. I think a skim coat using white cement, white sand, SBR and a cobalt pigment might be an alternative to pool paint. Needs testing though as UV affects SBR over time. Perhaps grout with SBR but don't use it in the final coat
Is bonding slurry used in addition to products like liquid bonding adhesives that you can roll on old damp concrete? (such as Quickcrete makes) Or is applying bonding slurry of this kind sufficient on its own before pouring new concrete on top of old?
I used just bonding thing from Home Depot about 7 years ago. Still holding (knock on a wood).
if using for an application that will not be exposed to moisture can the PVA used be the "regular or school glue" rather than the water proof PVA?
Hi Janet, l make mosaic substrates like this, yes. Fast setting mortar mixed with [water + school PVA]. Works a treat! 😊
Yes! Mosaic substrates! Perfect! 😊
Good info, thanks.
We have a concrete patio that was poured (1965'ish) right up against the foundation footer of our home to the walkout basement. Up until this year, it was not covered and exposed to the elements for all those years. Right where the footer meets the patio at the doorway, there are quite a few large holes where pieces of the footer have broken off and are deep crevices where even a couple weeds are growing through. Once I get the area cleaned up (figuring chipping away some of the old concrete, then TSP and water), should I use acrylic latex or PVA for this application? It may get some moisture, but is fully covered now.
I tried to repair it a couple of years ago and just used a vinyl concrete repair product, and that caused an even bigger looking mess. Thanks for your vidoes!! These have helped a lot and hopefully, this type of application will work for me.
for a cracked concrete chimney would this slurry be suitable for bonding when applying concrete to fill the cracks? thank you
can you use mortar mix instead?
Basicaly looks like a good quality modified thinset
Can you use timber glue with portland, I saw it somewhere?
irishguy200007
No.
Yes you can. If the concrete patch is located in a permanently dry area then this would work fine. However in wet areas the glue will re-emulsify. You can find products similar to PVA (white glue) but are modified to not re-emulsify when exposed to water. Preferably for water applications use the latex method shown in this video above.
Anyone know where I can find "regular old Portland powder"? I've searched the Internet and all I can find is Portland cement (with additives) or Quikcrete with even more additives such as sand. Thanks.
Portland cement powder. Sorry for the confusion. Type normal/ general use
Great information! Thanks for sharing!
Good information. Thanks. Do I need to wait until the slurry is dried before pouring the concrete?
Specifically no. The slurry must still be damp when the new layer of concrete is applied.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve what happens if you're like me and think you have to let the slurry dry first? I did that yesterday. Can I just wet it down with water and, in my case, mortar up my foundation crack or do I have to put more slurry on and then fill the crack with the mortar mix the same day?
Do you let bonding agent dry before adding the new concrete ?
Specifically no. The bonding slurry needs to be wet / damp when the new concrete goes on.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve : Thanks .
I ended up adding 70% water + 30% of the acrylic fortifier to quikrete multipurpose high strength concrete to fix a concrete slab and increase its water proof properties...so far it looks good but we will see if it last!
Hello and thank you for the information. I am planning on a garage re model and one of the main problem areas is the floor.
One question I have is if the slurry should be wet or dry when I apply the new concrete? My garage is almost 500sqft so I really dont want to make a simple mistake like that that might cause it to fail. Also would love your opinion on what brand/type I should use for the final surface that can take a lot of abuse. I plan to paint the floor as well.
It is a very busy garage, having built over 5 cars within the last 4 years and I have another two builds starting this september.
Thank you for your time and have a great day.
I hope this isn't too late. In another video he said the slurry should be wet. So clean the area of debris/dust, then wash with 50/50 muriatic acid and water. Dampen the area to be repaired with water, apply the slurry and right away apply your patch cement product.
Nice video, what do you suggest to level the floor (concrete slab), as there is a sink in part ( around 1-2 inches) towards the edge of the slab! If I use self leveling it will be very costly as the area is quite large ( 4 by 6 feet into 2 inches!!).
You could form up the area and place and finish the concrete just like you would any other floor. The only problem is the new mix should not zero out, which means it can not blend down to zero thickness. It really should be laid at 1/2" minimum thickness so this must involve cutting or chipping out some of the existing slab.
Great stuff, Steve!
Do you let the pasted on bonding slurry set before adding your new concrete?
No you must put the new concrete on before the slurry dries
@@Swimmingpoolsteve
hello i am a 69 year old female unable to pay a mason to repair. I have a painted cement two step kind of well to the back door of my raised ranch house. the cinderblocks are painted but have large chips in places. That I would like to repair. I will attempt your video instructions. i've always been handy to it may not turn out a work of art but i will give it a try. Will the slurry adhere to the painted areas?? Any suggestions would be appreciated. thank you.
Can i use 1/2 SBR for 1 water ?
Can I use bonding in stucco ?
Say you want to bond a old concreted statue to concrete. Could you just use 100% slurry mix only without also adding new concrete if you mixed it thicker
The slurry helps the concrete to grab onto the surfaces, but slurry is not strong like mortar or concrete is so I would say that you need to slurry both sides but you do want some mortar in between to hold the sandwich together. 1" probably the minimum I would use for any appreciable strength.
What’s name the poring paver
Please Steve I am trying to make a waterproofing agent for my Pool before tiling the Surface of the Pool,what do you think about Portland Cement, Acrylic will it work well?
Absolutely not! You will not be able to make a waterproof coating for your pool. You DEFINITELY should buy a product for this like Basecrete, Hydroban or Redgard and the right one will depend on the detail of your pool. What you are doing will absolutely not make this pool waterproof or anything approaching waterproof. Another possible solution is Xypex which can be integral in the mix or applied topically after the fact. Good luck !
I am planning to put a brick column on existing concrete. Do I still use the slury, or could u explain me the process please?
Hello Alexander, you will need to get your old concrete wet. Next, you will add the slurry. Then, you will add brick. Make sure you are only adding enough slurry to put on 1 maybe two brick. Then apply more slurry then a few more bricks and repeat
@@tarah917 hello when would you add the motor for the brick?
What is Portland powder?
Portland cement. In this cade type 10 portland cement. The name will be different depending on your location. Type 1, type 10, type N (normal) and type GU (general use) would all work for this application
Does the instructions on the additive say to add portland cement to it like you did? or No?
Depends on which one you buy. And also what you are using it for.
So this bonding slurry is to be applied instead of the bonding agent alone? Then you apply the concrete on top afterward?
That is correct.
Sorry, I couldn’t get it. The formula? Thanks
50% acrylic adhesive to 50% water (500ml adhesive + 500ml H2O) plus Portland cement powder added until it looks like he shows in the video. It's not runny or thick.
What is Portland power
Portland cement powder, type general use
Can you use white concrete?
White concrete seems to be more privileged than other concretes. I would refrain from using it and maybe give another minority concrete the opportunity instead.
Wow ... Voice over by James Earl Jones!! And interesting, useful information too!
Thank You
Please send a video
You neglect to mention what to do AFTER pasting the wet slurry on to the damp concrete (to receive the bonded patch)--which is kind of the point of your video, no? Apply the concrete patch to the slurry layer while it remains damp, or after it dries completely? This is why this question is asked so often in the comments for this video.
The answer is to immediately add the patch material. It shouldbe premixed and ready to go already. Good luck.
You got all those lumps because you added the portland into the water instead of starting with it add water then bonding agent it would have been smooth, like custard.
@truehighs7845 no the cement was old - that is why it had lumps in this case
Do I still need this Concrete Bonding Slurry, if I am using Re-cap concrete resurface?
If you are using a specialty mix or proprietary blend then you must follow the use instructions that they give you. Anything else would be risking a process or chemical that conflicts with something they use in their mix design.
Holy shit, metric units, that's so rare on YT *-*
Man you need to watch out for that snake ready to bite your left foot!!
Infact... never use PVA as a primer/bonding slurry/admixture with cement in any outdoor application... or indoor even. I just dont see the point when you can use an SBR. Thats why all the retail purchased slurrys/additives/2 part mixes from Mapei or Laticrete etc.. are all Latex based.. PVA is wood glue, end of story. Ive seen some companys try and sell a slurry compound and it has been cheaper and i rang and asked... PVA based... just dont bother.
SBR latex will outperform latex acrylic or PVA under some conditions, but it is also the least UV stable and can not be exposed to direct sunlight. It needs paint or mechanical cover or it will fail like an elastic band left out in the sun. PVA is also less of a problem when using modified concrete mixes where acrylic latex and SBR latex can both conflict with admixtures such as accellerants and other polymers. There is no one use fits all application with concrete or concrete bonding, and that is why there is not just one bottle of SBR latex on the shelf.
I had a paper towel soaked with water and wood glue from doing cleanup on a wood project. I threw the paper towel down on the concrete floor, figuring I would pick it up later. Well that paper towel was stuck to my garage floor for at least a year before I took some brute force to get it off from there, it was unsightly. But for a whole year I had been nagging at it, hahaha. It was wood glue ment for outdoor use and sub zero temperatures...
@@Swimmingpoolsteve my front yard is 466sq ft I want to level it with a color in the cement for the drive way which is 198 sq ft. The rest of the yard I want to tile with porcelain non skid. Please direct me on the procedure. Thanks
@@Swimmingpoolsteve Hello,
Could you advise please, I want to tile my rooms with porcelain in my country PVA bond is available to mix with Portland cement mortar , Do you think PVA is best or SBR to be used for mortar please?
@@saudalbulushi5205 tile should be set with thin set not with mortar that you modify yourself. For sure you want to find thin set for porcelain tile.
That goo oooo man......
Cake batter.
chunky cake batter in this video but that is because I was using up some old portland cement that had been sitting for a few years. It was not actuated yet and the drill and whip got it looking like cake batter.
I've watched a few videos on this subject, NO ONE TELLS YOU DO YOU LET IT DRY NEXT! Concrete goes on before the slurry dries.
same thing ass latex paint
Talks 2 much bc I'm interested in SHOWING all step by step!
What i can do to my work at my
Chimney crown is to scrub with wire brush and shop vac the surface, would it be good for? Its an old crown made wrong years old, it had not rain overhang edges, so i will make another crown on top with the edges
Can i mix this in motar for waterline tile?
Thank you
Can i mix a little of both of the acrylic and adhesive glue ?