Hi, great video review. Any idea how to silence the annoying voice saying every time ...The blue tooth devices is...blablabla? ! Is very loud and annoying.
hi ive just come across this video, i'm looking to fit some kind of bluetooth device in my classic pickup and think this might do the job for me, can i connect it direct to a 12v battery via a small fuse, so it comes on when the ignition is turned on?
Yes you can, just make sure thay there are 2 wires to each speaker, no common ground. Many older car radios used the car chassis as the ground return for the speakers. You need to isolate the speaker ground terminal if this is the case.
Friend, today at 8:30 pm, I'm going to post a short video about a project I set up for the new electronics magazine, the project was saved for a few years and was almost completely finished, I'm going to do a restoration soon, clean up and finish what I missed to finish it. In the video I will only present what was set up at the time, the way it was until today. Original Language Português
When I first started watching this video, I was expecting you to say that the class D amp and the class A amp sounded the same. I was so glad that you didn't. My system consists of a Hafler 110 pre-amp (watched your video on that just prior to watching this one), a Hafler 220 power amp (both the amp and pre-amp were built from kits), and Snell Type E Series II speakers. I prefer the sound of the Hafler to that of the tube equipment. It was good to see one of your Chevy Volts in the garage. But where was the second one?
My volts are model years 2012 and 2019. Go look at the publish date and figure out for yourself where the second one is? (Hint, it hadn't been built yet)
Another great video!!! I noticed you did'nt test the line in on the amplifier. Just wondered if there were any problems such as interference or general noise using the line in instead of the bluetooth? Thanks
Works as described. Plug in a 3.5 and she says "line inn" remove the plug and she says "the bluetooth device is a ready to pair" When it is plugged in, holding the play/pause button switches between line in and bluetooth. Sound quality is the same.
Thanks for the quick reply :) Shame they do not use a native english speaker for the notifications or even record voice synthesizer. The comedy value will get old quick in a nice speaker enclosure... or maybe not :)
you could consider an incremental rotary encoder, this would simulate the button presses. perhaps something like : nz.element14.com/alps/ec12e2420802/encoder-vertical-12mm-24det-24ppr/dp/2065067
One of the biggest differences I always hear between good quality and poor quality is channel separation. The class D amp sounds like a mono button was pushed in. I hear the same thing with cheap verses expensive CD players.
Anders Hammer This is known as imaging. A good system will deliver excellent imaging. With a good system with a proper recording you should be able to place where the musicians were during the session. I have a few CDs that were recorded direct to digital tape. A live session recorded with only 2 microphones suspended in the studio and fantastic studio musicians recording "HOT". You can close your eyes and place where the drums, bass, acoustic guitar, piano and vocalists are standing in the studio. I have a demo disk that was released by Boston acoustics called of all things " the Boston acoustics imaging disk" and it is an example of impeccable recording and when I play that disk on my Sony es cd player into my little tube amp and listen on either my altec Lansing speakers or better still headphones you can pick out where each player is in the studio. The only downside of my little tube amp is power. Even in ultrainear mode it is only 9 watts / channel. Great for general listening but it isn't going to rattle the China cabinet in the next room like a big ss amp, but it is extremely musical.
Yes I'm aware as I listen to CD and Vinyl on my Acoustat electrostatic speakers and Audio Research electronics. I once did a careful comparison of live unamplified classical music to my system playing a good recording of the same music and I could hear where every instrument was with the right size and shape. It sounded the same to me as the live music.
If I set this amp up with a 3.7 1100mAh Li-ion Battery and a MT3608 bust it up to 5.0 volt what do you think would be the out put in wattage to the speakers?
Looking to build this board into a pair of Minimus 7 speakers. What 12V power brick are you using? Did it already have the required 5.5 x 2.1mm plug? Thanks!
Hi there, Awesome Video first of all. i have a random question i have one of the TDA7492P bluetooth boards and just wanted to ask, what setting should the gain dip switches be set at? they are currently both down and when i crank the volume it starts skipping. i have 2 x 4 ohm speakers connected. powered by a 19V 3Amp laptop charger. any advice would be greatly appreciated.
That is why they are still in production. Nothing produces audio like a tube. They are expensive, but those with an ear for quality will continue to buy them. I have 4 tube amps. 2 I built, a Chinese push pull, and an vintage McIntosh that I will be re-capping hopefully soon.
Class D amplifiers are the ones with the best efficiency. But are they suitable for HiFi? I think not, I remember they have the worst waveform reproduction of all amplifier types...
Yes it is impressive for it's size, but it is rubbish in comparison to the class A valve amplifier. im rather old fashoned, so ill stick to the traditional amplifiers.
Agreed - I am quite happy to be classed as old fashioned in this case, as the difference between the two was pronounced, even via RUclips and headphones! Sadly, I do not currently own a valve amp - I do have two class A transistor units (one is a stereo Sony, the other is a Yamaha 9.1 that weighs about the same as a small town!), but I aim to get myself a nice valve amp when funds permit. Maybe a nice vintage Leak that wants a bit of TLC.....
fulwell1, "Weighs about the same as a small town" LOL i had to laugh :-D. I have an old signal generator in a large cast iron safe, well it's made like a safe, all valve and gives you a hernia to move it. One of those grey german made beasts, "emperfanger mess sender" printed on the front, it just made me laugh "mess sender" :-D I have a silly sense of humor.
I am pretty sure that it was Dave that said that the best way to judge an amplifier is by its weight, and I completely agree - that same philosophy applies to most electronics in my opinion. When I bought my last load of audio kit, the final tally was a smidge over £4000 - most of my colleagues thought I was mad spending that sort of money, but I will have the last laugh, because in 10 years time when they are on their third or fourth audio system, I will sill have mine working perfectly and have had better sound to boot! I like your sense of humour too - I have a feeling we could swap stories for hours over a pint or five.
yep as ive always said with hi vs whatever crap they make today , one is loud, it has bass, whatever, it has no soul, its a wall of noise, the other, it has space, real textures to the sound it has control and realism, ive just this week bought a 20 year old nad amp and mission speakers, with a bluetooth to line out box, using my dvd as mp3 on disc or smart tv or phone via bluetooth, i am super happy again, sounds sooo much better than the 'denon hifi system' that i used before
Jusb1066, Yes the nad was the top notch of hi-fi, but they were a bit bare of controls, someone said that they spend the money inside. Or they were playing a game of hunt the knob... oow that sounded naughty :-D. I repaired just one of those nad's, it was a minor bypass job, the speaker switch had died, no cleaning made it worse so i removed it and put wire jumpers in the pcb holes. The owners didnt bother with a new switch as it worked again :-D Yes i bodge things :)
correct and no swicthing distortion because there isn't any, and I am not ever referring to the pwm switching of this. I am referring to switching distortion on push pull when it switches from pust to pull and back.
Already have done that. that little red board I showed before. The one that I removed the amp chips and put the RCA cords on. That one is actually attached directly to my class A. The sound you heard was going through that board fro the same phone. So the results for the compare were exactly the same, with the exception to the amplifier. It was sent via bluetooth to the amp in both demo.
8 ohm is a good one for tube amps. Most class D amps work better into 4.
Hi, great video review. Any idea how to silence the annoying voice saying every time ...The blue tooth devices is...blablabla? ! Is very loud and annoying.
hi ive just come across this video, i'm looking to fit some kind of bluetooth device in my classic pickup and think this might do the job for me, can i connect it direct to a 12v battery via a small fuse, so it comes on when the ignition is turned on?
Yes you can, just make sure thay there are 2 wires to each speaker, no common ground.
Many older car radios used the car chassis as the ground return for the speakers. You need to isolate the speaker ground terminal if this is the case.
@@12voltvids thanks I'll prob buy a new speaker... can you buy a waterproof enclosure for this unit?
Thanks your video has been a great help
How can I purchase this 50wx2 board
Friend, today at 8:30 pm, I'm going to post a short video about a project I set up for the new electronics magazine, the project was saved for a few years and was almost completely finished, I'm going to do a restoration soon, clean up and finish what I missed to finish it. In the video I will only present what was set up at the time, the way it was until today.
Original Language Português
When I first started watching this video, I was expecting you to say that the class D amp and the class A amp sounded the same. I was so glad that you didn't.
My system consists of a Hafler 110 pre-amp (watched your video on that just prior to watching this one), a Hafler 220 power amp (both the amp and pre-amp were built from kits), and Snell Type E Series II speakers. I prefer the sound of the Hafler to that of the tube equipment.
It was good to see one of your Chevy Volts in the garage. But where was the second one?
My volts are model years 2012 and 2019. Go look at the publish date and figure out for yourself where the second one is?
(Hint, it hadn't been built yet)
@@12voltvids I had considered that, but I couldn't remember the model years for them.
Good Day sir
That can be work on 12v and 2A power adapter?
And my speakers is 8ohms and 30w?
a small Slim Jim antenna designed for 2304mhz will give you a much better range.
Nice video like always Dave! That amplifier board does not have a Play button but a Paly button haha
And she says "The bootooth device is a ready to pairr
Nice video. Tell me, do you have to manually increase the volume or can it be done with your phone's volume?
Phone can control
Another great video!!!
I noticed you did'nt test the line in on the amplifier.
Just wondered if there were any problems such as interference or general noise using the line in instead of the bluetooth?
Thanks
Works as described. Plug in a 3.5 and she says "line inn" remove the plug and she says "the bluetooth device is a ready to pair"
When it is plugged in, holding the play/pause button switches between line in and bluetooth. Sound quality is the same.
Thanks for the quick reply :)
Shame they do not use a native english speaker for the notifications or even record voice synthesizer.
The comedy value will get old quick in a nice speaker enclosure... or maybe not :)
You should try out the class D bluetooth audio amplifier board - TSA8498 4x100W
how to add "Volume Control KNOB" To This AMP.. because its so tiring to always push the buttons..thank you...
can anyone help me.. pls...
you could consider an incremental rotary encoder, this would simulate the button presses. perhaps something like : nz.element14.com/alps/ec12e2420802/encoder-vertical-12mm-24det-24ppr/dp/2065067
is there a way.. to directly input audio signal to the ic.. i would like to bypass the bluetooth and use it as.. standalone amplifier..
One of the biggest differences I always hear between good quality and poor quality is channel separation. The class D amp sounds like a mono button was pushed in. I hear the same thing with cheap verses expensive CD players.
Anders Hammer
This is known as imaging.
A good system will deliver excellent imaging. With a good system with a proper recording you should be able to place where the musicians were during the session. I have a few CDs that were recorded direct to digital tape. A live session recorded with only 2 microphones suspended in the studio and fantastic studio musicians recording "HOT".
You can close your eyes and place where the drums, bass, acoustic guitar, piano and vocalists are standing in the studio. I have a demo disk that was released by Boston acoustics called of all things " the Boston acoustics imaging disk" and it is an example of impeccable recording and when I play that disk on my Sony es cd player into my little tube amp and listen on either my altec Lansing speakers or better still headphones you can pick out where each player is in the studio. The only downside of my little tube amp is power. Even in ultrainear mode it is only 9 watts / channel. Great for general listening but it isn't going to rattle the China cabinet in the next room like a big ss amp, but it is extremely musical.
Yes I'm aware as I listen to CD and Vinyl on my Acoustat electrostatic speakers and Audio Research electronics. I once did a careful comparison of live unamplified classical music to my system playing a good recording of the same music and I could hear where every instrument was with the right size and shape. It sounded the same to me as the live music.
If I set this amp up with a 3.7 1100mAh Li-ion Battery and a MT3608 bust it up to 5.0 volt what do you think would be the out put in wattage to the speakers?
Awesome video project, thank you very much, Dave~ ^_^
I want to ask, I have a TPA3116D2 50W, I use speaker 20w 4ohm 2pcs.
How many volts and amperes are needed?
Looking to build this board into a pair of Minimus 7 speakers. What 12V power brick are you using? Did it already have the required 5.5 x 2.1mm plug? Thanks!
Yes the power plug was already attatched. I am just using a generic tip positive 2.5 amp power brick, but a 19v laptop one will work even better.
Thanks! I probably have an old laptop supply I can repurpose.
Hi there, Awesome Video first of all. i have a random question i have one of the TDA7492P bluetooth boards and just wanted to ask, what setting should the gain dip switches be set at? they are currently both down and when i crank the volume it starts skipping. i have 2 x 4 ohm speakers connected. powered by a 19V 3Amp laptop charger. any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I think tube make a better sound,and I am a guy that like high-tech stuff,but tube are a better sounding amp.
That is why they are still in production. Nothing produces audio like a tube.
They are expensive, but those with an ear for quality will continue to buy them.
I have 4 tube amps. 2 I built, a Chinese push pull, and an vintage McIntosh that I
will be re-capping hopefully soon.
listening to class A output through an iPad speaker 😆
it's like comparing cat's piss with champagne. the tube amplifier ALWAYS wins.
You got that right.
Class D amplifiers are the ones with the best efficiency. But are they suitable for HiFi? I think not, I remember they have the worst waveform reproduction of all amplifier types...
I have always felt this way.
Yes it is impressive for it's size, but it is rubbish in comparison to the class A valve amplifier.
im rather old fashoned, so ill stick to the traditional amplifiers.
Agreed - I am quite happy to be classed as old fashioned in this case, as the difference between the two was pronounced, even via RUclips and headphones! Sadly, I do not currently own a valve amp - I do have two class A transistor units (one is a stereo Sony, the other is a Yamaha 9.1 that weighs about the same as a small town!), but I aim to get myself a nice valve amp when funds permit. Maybe a nice vintage Leak that wants a bit of TLC.....
fulwell1, "Weighs about the same as a small town" LOL i had to laugh :-D.
I have an old signal generator in a large cast iron safe, well it's made like a safe, all valve and gives you a hernia to move it.
One of those grey german made beasts, "emperfanger mess sender" printed on the front, it just made me laugh "mess sender" :-D
I have a silly sense of humor.
I am pretty sure that it was Dave that said that the best way to judge an amplifier is by its weight, and I completely agree - that same philosophy applies to most electronics in my opinion.
When I bought my last load of audio kit, the final tally was a smidge over £4000 - most of my colleagues thought I was mad spending that sort of money, but I will have the last laugh, because in 10 years time when they are on their third or fourth audio system, I will sill have mine working perfectly and have had better sound to boot!
I like your sense of humour too - I have a feeling we could swap stories for hours over a pint or five.
yep as ive always said with hi vs whatever crap they make today , one is loud, it has bass, whatever, it has no soul, its a wall of noise, the other, it has space, real textures to the sound it has control and realism, ive just this week bought a 20 year old nad amp and mission speakers, with a bluetooth to line out box, using my dvd as mp3 on disc or smart tv or phone via bluetooth, i am super happy again, sounds sooo much better than the 'denon hifi system' that i used before
Jusb1066, Yes the nad was the top notch of hi-fi, but they were a bit bare of controls, someone said that they spend the money inside.
Or they were playing a game of hunt the knob... oow that sounded naughty :-D.
I repaired just one of those nad's, it was a minor bypass job, the speaker switch had died, no cleaning made it worse so i removed it and put wire jumpers in the pcb holes.
The owners didnt bother with a new switch as it worked again :-D
Yes i bodge things :)
class a more bass sound
correct and no swicthing distortion because there isn't any, and I am not ever referring to the pwm switching of this. I am referring to switching distortion on push pull when it switches from pust to pull and back.
Man, the bluetooth chick is annoying ... Anyone ever tried programming these chips ?
Most of these amps work best at 19 - 24 volts
Now add a Bluetooth module to your class a amplifier and you got a winner
Already have done that. that little red board I showed before. The one that I removed the amp chips and put the RCA cords on. That one is actually attached directly to my class A. The sound you heard was going through that board fro the same phone. So the results for the compare were exactly the same, with the exception to the amplifier. It was sent via bluetooth to the amp in both demo.