Great videos John. I appreciate the time you take and the wisdom you share in doing these reviews. Your honest and casual take on the in-depth explanations you provide make it fun and easy to learn and understand, even for a novice. You are the inspiration for my new hobby and I can't thank you enough. Please keep the videos coming!
Hello friend IAM using the PAM Amplifier since last 6 months and I had no problems and no noise at all they are so nice after all , IAM getting very good clarity..
I really appreciate this video, John. After buying a real ho-hum board online, I was scared off buying pre-builts. Your insights and thorough testing have changed that. Thank you.
I just found your channel, very appealing. Also, if you need content, maybe could you try and show some common mods you found to common problems on amplifiers, keep going, your way of explaining is great, now, go more indepth, I will watch probably all your videos, they look good, I keep in mind this is a 5yo video so let's see if you continued and everything went great, as always does, in the final
I'd be interested in an amp troubleshooting series, perhaps how to use a scope to troubleshoot ground loops, reduce noise, determining if distortion is audible. How to determine what component to mod/upgrade for better amp performance. Maybe even go into power supply design, linear vs PWM. Keep up the great work!
Hey cool. I live about an hour from you. That’s awesome. Next time I’m at WrightPat I’ll try to reach out and drop you off some items instead of mailing them. Thanks for your great, honest reviews and help. God Bless
Hello John, that bloke from across the pond again. Yours is the only channel regarding amps I watch. I trust your knowledge and I prefer your presentation. I do wish you would dispell the myth that ALL D Class are noisy, there are good and bad in all amps. Many of the amps I bought as kits or ready built because you felt they were pretty good, no doubt some are fake. I'm glad you picked the TPA3116 as my little £3.70 ($4.70) one off EBAY although the cheapest is rather nice once the gain is fixed - 5 minutes. (On another RUclips vid). At that price I would recommend it to get started with. My most expensive amp was £14.43 ($18.43), it's the TDA7498E 2 x 160W (?). Not tried that yet. I have a 2 x 100W twin TPA3116 bridged amps that is OK. Incidently John there is a TDA7498 - 2 x 100W (?) at $7.84 on EBAY if you fancy testing a 'biggy'. I try to choose those with gain adjustment. I still miss my EL34's. Regards
2.1 Bluetooth Boards is what everyone is looking for - that could help with your views. Also consider doing a shootout. So always test two boards at a time and then declare the winner. You could also reuse the winner and make shootout with the next challenger. You could also start a pointing system awarding points for low noise, linearity, power, features, heat dissipation, handling lower impedance loads, efficiency and so on. Just a few thoughts - maybe it helps.
@@bobert4522 I need an advice: can I take an audio amplifier board and sold a female 3.5 jack connector to left and right output contacts (to play the audio through headphones instead of speakers)? Thanks in advance.
Your channel is amazing, I always come here first before buying an amplifier from eBay (And I also love the LM1875, I just don't have enough speakers to use so many of them haha)
I bought a stereo board from Taobao where it says the board was from a acassette player. Said to be 80wpc, dual 18 to 22vac source, most significantly, 4 pcs of Hitachi 2SD1185 transistors. My best buy so far incl tda 7498, lm3886, Stk4050 V etc. I use it to driver my quad jbl 4320 16 ohm rig. Really impressive, leaving my high end amps behind, e. g. NAKamichi p7, and tube amps McIntosh mc 240 and my trusted Ampex 6973 monoblocs. John's channel is superb and most credible one in terms of his analyses and comments. But even he says he's a bit weird huh?
Found your channel while looking for small individual amps to replace an OEM factory amp. The big problem is the need for over 12v to get adequate performance. You might consider expanding into videos about solving usage problems like that: testing cheap DC-DC converters with amps, testing line level crossovers for driving bi and tri ampped separates, etc. Once someone has chosen the small amp they need, there isn't a big need to watch more other than morbid curiosity 😄
I bought a couple three amps after watching your reviews actually four two kinter's one had the fm stereo with remote love it and the small board with the single volume knob works good not perfect but ok anyway I think your channel is a great service.
Thank you John for all your efforts on these modules. There's such a mass of stuff coming out of China and you just don't know if the description is all its cracked up to be. Recently my bookshelf sized computer speakers (active Microlab) speakers stopped working due to the silly remote control input selection. in the end it was easier to disconnect the stupid amp inside the one with it and added some external terminal posts wired direct to the x-over. The original amp remains inside for now... All i needed was a simple external amp and i came here to your channel for a suggestion. Because i have a few parts and pieces to hand i cobbled up a TDA7377 and its doing well enough. Will be following your own amp build...for sure.
peteb2 I have some PC speakers that ALSO have ‘lost’ their internal amp. I have considered doing exactly as you have - making an external amp and simply putting terminals on the back of each speaker.
Great...Gr8...Job! All contenders in one place! And the winner is 1.LM1875, 2.TDA7293 3.PAM8403 (for low vol. 5v)! Can you tell me where to buy from best online service? I want to see your next videos on, "How to assemble Amp. (mentioned above) to the Bluetooth MP3 player/Receiver!
Hey John, awesome channel! I have the PAM8403 and the LM1875 and I agree with you. They are really nice sounding amps for their designed purpose. Keep up the great work!
@Tenus123 First and foremost, be sure to use DC power. For the PAM8403 amp, I use a 5V LM7805 voltage regulator chip with a 9V battery. For the LM1875, I used bench power supply. For the LM1875, I suppose you could use a old power brick from something like a laptop. They usually output around 18V DC and 3A.
I once built a stereo amp using the LM1875's and I supplied it with split rail +/- 30VDC at around 3 amps. I'm pretty sure the LM1875 needs split rail supply.
great video as always John. I went from knowing nothing about chip amps to knowing enough to build my own from you. enjoying the discrete amp build as well.
One amplifier I think that deserves serious attention, and I dont know whether you have tested one, or are familiar with, is one I purchased recently, the Wuzhi Audio ZK-1002L. I was exceptionally impressed with it's sound and performance. It boasts 100W RMS x 2, and utilizes dual 3116 chips. I don't know whether it's advertised power is exaggerated and sensationalized, as I believe most of these amplifiers coming out of China are, but I would very be curious to see actual dyno results for it's actual power results, because it does perform quite well considering it's modest price of about $8.00 USD. I mounted it with hot glue on a .5 cubic foot box I built out of 3/4" MDF, with a pair of older Jensen coaxial 6.5" 4 ohm car speakers I had laying around in the garage, and powering it with a 4.74A 19V DC power supply adapter, which I also hot glued onto the top of the enclosure. (It is designed to be used with a power supply between 12V and 24V.) I built this portable bluetooth speaker in all of about two hours for my wife, who complained about the poor sound quality, and low volume levels that could be achieved with the several bluetooth speakers we had purchased, that were not working well for her. Of course, she has been spoiled by listening to music on my expertly restored, vintage Marantz 2253b receiver, and Advent heritage speakers with a JBL powered subwoofer. And she is very satisfied with the exceptional sound quality of this home built project, and takes it everywhere she goes with her. Many people have remarked about the rich sound, and I could not possibly fill the many orders from friends asking me to build them one similar. I just simply provide the link for the amplifier on Aliexpress, outline a basic construction plan, and refer them to buy any decent 6-1/2" car speakers. Otherwise this would be my full time occupation, filling orders for bluetooth speakers. LOL! I built this for my wife, who wanted something portable that she could carry around with her, and plug into an AC 110V receptacle anywhere, (which I mounted a leather carrying strap made from an old belt) that would provide decent bass, and good quality, true stereo sound, and would conveniently connect to her cellphone for playing music. If you have the opportunity, I would highly recommend this versatile bluetooth amplifier board, that comes presoldered, with only one pot for a simple volume control, a plug for the adapter, simple screw down speaker wire connectors, and a top lid that you assemble with screws provided. I think you would be quite impressed with it's quality and value.
Hi John. I really appreciate all your videos. Don't get discouraged about your ad revenue, these things happen and they have their fluctuations. Hope to see more awesome content from your channel.
Recently made an art-project with seven diy speakers. So glad I found your channel. Went with the TPA3116 D2 mono because of the single supply. Subscribed! :D
TPA8610, i just pput that inside a desktop pc speaker along with battery, a boost converter and a bluetooth module. WOrks like A CHARM, not a shred of noise even at full load. It is driving a 4ohm speaker at 12v but I hope to replace it with an 8 ohm soon. It is VERY loud, especially for its size.
Just to let you and others know I tried few of your winners. Two different versions of TPA3116D2 mono which you had until the end. TDA7492 (Stereo), TDA2050, TDA 7498 (Stereo). To my ears and overall experience TDA7492 was clear winner. TPA3116D2 ranked second in terms of audio quality and noise, which you had in your winner list. I tested all of these with 8Ohms Onkyo speakers different center channel front, left and surrounds all combinations. Skm-200 and Skc-200. Aah also kinter ma-180 which produced decent clean sound but may be lacked a notch liitle power.
Forgot to mention I didn’t get any hiss with TDA7492. All my chips were sourced from aliexpress and I was running all of them with 4 pack of panasonic ncr18650b batteries. ~ 15.8 - 16.2V
Great review as always. I've used a bunch of boards myself for many projects but this saved me a lot of time having to play the lottery with all these boards that are available. I've used the TPA3116 myself and it's for sure a great little board. I'll have to check out that tiny one to make a small super portable speaker! Thanks again!
I built the little TDA7297 15w x2 stereo amp kit and i was kind of impressed for the price, under $5 USD. .And even though its only 8 ohm, most smaller speakers are only 8 ohm.
Thanks for the review of the TDA 7293. I, TOO, foud it to be a ount sized powerhouse I did, however, find one VERY serious design fault in both it & the TDA 7294 IC'S IT is a design issue i believe where in the entire wattage of EITHER or both rails were load dumped into the loudspeakers Initially i thought it was a thermal shutdown flaw. Fortunately, with both ic's, it happened whilst driving 200 watt, 8 ohn, non-inductive resistors during an extended 40% load curve for 6 hrs. Assisted cooling was provided along with a prototype device specific hear removal system. It was tested that way to simulate vehicular applications. I used2 fuses, both rails, plus BOTH A remote breaker & a 3.5 a skoblo @the speaker. Later on, a dc offset sensor relay circuit was added 30a, 250v dpst onron. NO BLOWN drivers or fuses. A few breaker pops, though. Thanks ahmgain. BRIAN.
I have the TA2024 at 7:20 for some years now and is connected to a TV Tuner (Winfast TV PRO II) and large speakers. When the power drops it make that "squeak" very loud. I've thought maybe mine is faulty somehow but now i heard you about that squeak and yes, it's the board fault :) (worked at least 5 years plugged nonstop - no heatsink added, just the plain board)
Thanks for the video. This clears up a lot of questions about these amps. I have a couple of the TDA7293's and also a few of the LM1875's. I thought they would be good for homebrew desktop monitors.. From your process of elimination it looks like I picked good ones. I guess I'll go ahead and finish the projects now that I know they should sound pretty good and not start a fire. LOL Thanks again.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Unfortunately, good content do not attract many views. If you make videos without relevant informations, you gonna have tons of views.
Renato Brant ola Grande Renato Brand. Um abraço mas tu veio parar aqui curioso kkk igual eu... Mas eu preciso aprender estudar muito ainda kkk já vc ta apenas assistindo como se fosse uma brincadeira de criança kkk. Abração sou seu inscrito e adoro seus vídeos valew. Viu se pode me dizer se posso ligar essa tal placa descodificadora bluetooth usb radio etc made china aliexpress comprei uma recebi gostei dela na descrição só fala 7.5v a 12.8c dc mas não sei nada sobre corrente nela etc... Será possível eu ligar ela em uma bateria 12v ex de moto ou de carro to com medo de queimar ela sr. Renato e aí qual a sua dica? Resistor? Diodo? Fusível? Como posso ligar ela no carro por exemplo... Ou em uma bateria 12v grande etc... Acha possível como posso fazer mestre?...
Renato Brant viu eu adoro o som do tda7293 não sei porque gostei de ouvir achei boa a qualidade apenas não atende bem abaixo de 40hz... Mas do resto pra entusiasta como eu tá bom de mais kkk. Mas eu montei um ab puro com os famosos toschibas dois pares c5200 e a1943 etc esse sim bota qualidade e potência cara do céu esse eu não troco não vendo por nada amo ele e montei meu ab puro já faz uns 10 anos uso até hoje... Fiz até o trafo etc tudo manual placa etc foi pura bucha mas tenho até hoje 2ohms suporta dando risada nunca queimou e o trafo é 2x 34v 6A ficou um luxo só... Pena só fiz mono... Ná época foi o que deu pra fazer... Grana e eu nem tinha computador internet etc eu ia na lanhouse pagar 3horas de estudos e éra tudo leitura e fóruns kkk não tinha youtube passo a passo como hoje os novatos estão no céu e não sabem disso kkk
Thanks John, I appreciate all your info from your reviews. When you spoke of the -7293 I was intrigued by TDA'S data sheets which on g. #11. In the BTL Paragraph it states that both the -7293 & -7294 I.C.S work better into 16 & 32 ohm loads than 4 ohms. Super for me as I own 2pair of Bose 301-2' & 2 pair of Yamaha 8" 3 ways. When using the '93 mono locks, as you stated it approached 95 watts power @1 pct. the Bravo for your review I use my 2 -7294 stereo amps with line level converters with my Sansui QRX 6501. I use the line converters to A): unload the Sansuis aged amps & not over load the 7294 front end & I added a Polk PW-10 powered sub. And both amps now drive 16 ohm loads with ease. Thanks for the info . .an LM 1875 is next on the buy sheet Happy memorial day festivities to you & all here. Brian
I can understand eliminating the 1969 board because of the cap fix you had to do with the ringing. But it is a class A amp and ought to sound quite a bit better than those class D chip amps, yes? Before the 12k distortion fix you remarked that it sounded very good...
It shows me, he isnt a good engineer. Jlh is totally different amp from others. He may get a wrong one, but its for hifi enthusiast, not for household typical amp. It must have the best sound of these cheap and dirty AB, and D amps. BTW I tested and use most of it. My opinion is, some tuning must have for D amps, following datasheets! The chinese circuits the base, cheap versions, with poor elements (like JLH panel)!
Pertaining to the Kinter MA-170: Hogwash. I routinely push 4 ohm loads with my 170s (I have four around the house) and have done so, sometimes for hours on end, for getting on five years now. I wouldn't have thought to try it, either, if the spec sheet hadn't specifically said it could.
I opened my MA-170 and found it uses the TDA7266 amplifier IC. Looking at the datasheet for that IC, it has a limited current rating and is not specified to handle 4 ohm loads. In older versions of this amplifier, they used a better IC that could handle 4 ohm speakers with no problem.
@@JohnAudioTech Fair enough... I've opened one of mine, and apart from the case doubling as the heat sink, had no complaints. Any idea when they switched over? Been thinking of buying a couple more of them, possibly going back to the red case version, if it's old stock.
@@LarryTheTubaBoy I reviewed one a few years ago. Someone else reviewed one before I did and it had a different IC. It could have changed yet again if it is still in production.
Class D shines on its output power and efficiency. Perfect for subwoofers. Class AB has some warmer highs but requires bulky heatsinks to cool it. I had genuine TDA7294 witch required like a 1kg of heatsink to say cool without fans witch in my opinion creates unwanted windy sounds when you try to enjoy quality. I'm not sure if blindfolded I could actually tell difference between class AB or D. Those chinese amps usually are poorly designed with lower ratings parts like capacitors, too small heatsinks, missing some parts that IC manufacturer recommends so sellers could keep price low. I have like 20 different amps. Most of them are class D because they are cheaper and smaller. Some amps with integrated bluetooth has buzz sound. But most class D amps works fine and sound quality is really good for like 10$. Power supply and good signal cables is very important too to get clear sound as well as decent quality speakers. And we usually feed low bit rate digital audio signal to them so even class A or AB can't show its best anyway since signal is already bad quality.
well....I like the sorting and all that...great job. For replacement of the TDA2822 amplifier board, you can try out TEA2025 ic, it has 16 pins, it is a stereo class AB chip, gives clean 2.5w+2.5w power and 5w in bridge mode (it can be bridged very easily)....and the quality is very good compared to TDA2822....I had made the board(TEA2025) previously and satisfied by the results.
I would love to buy TPA3116D2 mono board. Excellent quality, pcb with ground plane, high current capable shielded chokes, Large heatsink, higher quality caps and of course those chunky connectors for better and noise proof connections - package comes in cheap like $6 here in Bangladesh. Class D is more efficient than class A so this might be the board for home and party applications and sound systems.
Problem playing with diy amp is you'll always wonder off to something better, thus keep changing out. Rather than that route get to the endgame at first try rather than climbing the better ladder. Your endgame amp will be based on latest greatest scientifically measured Purifi 1ET400A Amplifier 850-1k though.
That 100w class D and 5 others didn't pass my tests but a different version of that 150w class D did and it did not require any mods for bass...it also has 2 instead of 1 power input diodes...it looks almost identical and has HW-446 instead of V4 printed on it. Still only 60 watts into 4 ohms @ 24 vdc though...
Many Thanks, I'm just in the process of buying one of these prebuilt boards or kits & looking around for pointers to the very best of the many out there now, i see a massive range on eBay from China. I'll be checking up your other vids as i'm new here p.s. i.m.o. even for 8 ohm or 16 ohm speakers ....amps that can't easily handle 4 ohm speakers are to be avoided, if all else is right, it seems to be that the power supply isn't stiff enough as in ultra-budget stuff, i've always gone to the power supply first to upgrade an amplifiers sound quality. Gr8 vid & very informative
I can confirm that the cased "Breeze Audio" amplifier is a very good product. At least the later versions with 35V rated capacitors inside. The earlier versions with 25V rated caps, could cause some problems with a 24V power supply. Run them at 19V, and they will go on for a long time. I use the Breeze amp for my TV-set, and it has been turned on for more than 3 years now. And no problems so far. The only drawback (at least for me) is the typo-error in the back. How is it possible to write "SPERKERS" when it should be "SPEAKERS", on a such nice piece of aluminium chassis?
What's wrong with my amplifier/receiver? Speakers having buzzing or humming sounds. However, I can't hear it already when the amplifier is already in use, it's only while on idle and turned on.
Have you tried or tested the JLM L20 V9.2 board?. I think you will find they are the most natural, low distortion, "straight wire with gain" amps around. They are based on Douglas Self's amplifier design. Thanks for all your videos and testing.
A video on where to source suitable power supplies (ready made or kits). I have no problem obtaining the amps but power supplies seem to be more difficult to source.
Hi what would you recommend for clean lowest distortion amp at lower/higher volumes for best audio between your winners or any other DIY amp module available?
Have you ever tested a TPA3255 board from the likes of AliExpress? Specced for 260W / 4 ohm, distortion 1% (per channel) | 150W / 8 ohm, distortion 1% (per channel)
Wow, the amp kits I bought for my 2.1 set up made it in your eliminations. TDA7293 on woofer and LM1875s per channel. Got a beefy 120W toroidal transformer, dual rail rectifier kit, 2.1 pre-amp mixer, fuses on all voltage rails for each board and mains input, beefy radiators. Total cost excluding the case was around 100$. But my god, does it sound good. Driving 2 8" old russian paper cone full range drivers per channel on a open baffle design and a 10" W250 woofer in a closed box. Only missing a decent tweeter. If anyone has a suggestion for a low power flat response tweeter in the 90-92db range, I would be quite appreciative.
im building a system for fun. to use my self taught knowledge. i have a friend in russia, a bonafide engineer, and a friend and fellow audio enthusiast and I are putting our heads together. i cant help but often dream about making something that people love and want to have.
great video John, but would you consider selling the TDA8946 mixer board. I looked around and couldn't find one, that would fit perfectly for what I want to do. thanks mike
I have some old (real authentic )Sony IC chips somewhere I don't even know if they're good? I Salvage them. I'm wanted to see if you would be interested in them?
I saw those two direct-coupled class-AB boards there from the start and guessed you would be keeping those ones. Most of the industrys' leading PAs are direct-coupled.
I dont have any problem with pam8610 no noise clear sound but not very detail😅 ,i think thats enough powerfull amplifier ,only 12v 3@ can handle twin 10in speaker (@8ohm 300w) very well n balance sound output
Hey John..how can I reach you ? As a newbie, I have a question about using 1 power supply to feed two mono boards. I understand I can runn parallel lines to each board (v+ 0 v-) but the trouble I have is sizing. The boards and how much power I need seems vague and I dont knwo enough about sizing - plus it doenst help when they say you need 36V 18-0-18 but people call it (and how you order) is 18V center tap. So magnify that if I am looking to size two mono amps that say it takes 24V. is that 12-0-12 each , or 48 (24-0-24)...Very confusing
I guess that why impedance matching transformers are use. also it help effecnicy of the amplifier when it diving low impedance loads that it is not design for.
And suggestion which one of these would be a great replacement for the onboard amps in these chinese suitcase turntables (like that Crosley Cruiser) because the onboard amps seem to generally cut off low frequencies (not just for the speakers, which makes sense but EVEN through the RCA and headphone output. Which is insane. So i'd love to mod one of these little suitcase turntables to get at least a BIT of better sound out of them. Especially with a swapped pickup & cartridge.
Hey John, I have a couple questions. 1. have you tried the Hifiberry Amp4? I've been using this and I like it a lot. I power it with a 15V audio grade power supply, and use it on 8 ohm speakers. It does not seem to get hot. 2. why do you prefer 4 ohm speakers?
Is there any significant difference between these amps and a PA amp (aside from wattage)? Like the type that musicians use for performances -- they mic their smaller guitar/bass amps and send that through a larger power PA.
@xTheDarkSiderx Yes， Class A is not efficient. I have some very old 2N2055 left , they are good sounding transistor, and the newer 2N3055 are not as good as old one. I must agree with your point. A well designed class AB with slightly higher quiescent current can sound very good too. I also built ACA class A amp designed by Nelson Pass, a small 5 watter, and of course , some tube amps and also experimental magnetic amplifiers. :-)
Hey man, I got a zk-ht21 (wuzhi audio) and I wanted to know if there’s a way to remove the high pass filter. Little too high for me (around 225 hz). Where would it be in the amp board? Thanks man
the power (3 wire) caused me more trouble then the effort... I'm a total novice so found a board that suited 9v - 24v jack input more suited to my pull apart and re-build stuff.... anyway, cheers. love ya work
As I have been lurking the Class-D toob world for quite a while... I am slowly discovering that the DIY low-cost advantages are being negated by power supply costs (e.g. 20VDC 5A+ notebook power bricks) ... FWIW, my benchtop is 30V 5A... perhaps some guidance on power supplies for these nifty little widgets. (have also used 2@ 12VDC (12.6V) for a good, stable 24VDC current source).
is it possible to attach a mini amp (let's say 50w) just before the speaker? either individually or in pair,what would you recommend. I have a motorcycle..
I have an assembled JLH Class A Chi-Fi amp from AliExpress and I don’t have an idea if they measure and perform well. There’s no noise and didn’t distort except when played loud. But to my ears they don’t sound right.
Hi jhon please help me I am testing my class d amp board and I found some issues,I will try to explain it as clearly as possible. 1)it plays well for 20 mins or so and after that it pauses every 2 seconds or so(like-play..thump..play... Thump...play..thump so on...) 2)if I unplug power supply and replug it,playtime depends on how long I unplugged the supply(max30 mins play time) and after that issue persists again. 3)as some people here suggested and I too thought it was a heat issue and pulled heatsink (it is not getting hot at all to touch).then I found that there is no thermal paste on it,it is just super glued.I thought that is the issue and pasted some thermal paste and put the heatsink on the chip(just pressed on to it ,not glued).the problem still exists!!! 4)I am running it on 24v supply and about 1 amp current.is this issue?power adapter isnt getting hot to touch.I powered it using car battery stepped up to 24 v and still having same issue 5)I am running board with recommended ohm load speakers,4 ohm 50w.this happens even at low volume. The board is tpa3116d2.
I too would have guessed a thermal issue, but you seem to have eliminated that as a cause. Since it happens at low volume, that could eliminate a supply current issue, although I'd still make sure the amp is getting the current it needs. Monitor the supply voltage with a fast responding meter while using the amp. It could just be a bad board. They are cheap and could have bad/failing parts. I'd try a new one if you can.
@@JohnAudioTech thank you very much John,I just think I found the problem,when I touch one of the capacitors at input the music keeps playing(when music actually breaks,it continuous to play if I touch one of the caps) and when I touch the other input cap it stops playing.should I replace those caps?its definitely not a heat issue.its the bad cap as you said
Hey John, Great review! I needed some advice from you though: i Had a single TDA7498 AMp that worked well on it's own (3+years) Then i decided to add one more with a common power supply and added 2 pre amps one for each. But issue is both amps burnt off when my rca cables moved and made some noise. I never had this problem when running a single amp. I suppose it's some grounding issue? All connections done were the same as the single amp setup except now both amps sit on the same PSU TIA
Hi! I'm building a small Bluetooth speaker, and don't quite know what amp I should use.. The 3.3" speakers I want to use is either: 20w 4ohms 10w 4ohms 10w 8ohms And I'm gonna pick the battery after what is most suitable for the amp to get a decent nomber of battery life. The size of the Bluetooth speaker is around 6x3.5x2 inches. Any suggestions?
The PAM8403 is a good start. If you need more loudness, an amp that will run on 12 volts would be better. An amp with built in bluetooth capability would simplify the construction. I haven't tested any yet.
@@JohnAudioTech Hi! Thanx! Is is possible to run a 3.7v battery, and step up to 12v? Or just buy a 12v battery? Choosing between 1800 mAh 12V or, 6000 mAh 3.7V And I plan on using a CSR8635 bluetoothchip
You must keep it up!!! We are supporting you! I love your videos.I'm 16 years old and I am learning new things with every video you upload!
Great videos John. I appreciate the time you take and the wisdom you share in doing these reviews. Your honest and casual take on the in-depth explanations you provide make it fun and easy to learn and understand, even for a novice. You are the inspiration for my new hobby and I can't thank you enough. Please keep the videos coming!
Hello friend IAM using the PAM Amplifier since last 6 months and I had no problems and no noise at all they are so nice after all , IAM getting very good clarity..
I really appreciate this video, John. After buying a real ho-hum board online, I was scared off buying pre-builts. Your insights and thorough testing have changed that. Thank you.
I just found your channel, very appealing. Also, if you need content, maybe could you try and show some common mods you found to common problems on amplifiers, keep going, your way of explaining is great, now, go more indepth, I will watch probably all your videos, they look good, I keep in mind this is a 5yo video so let's see if you continued and everything went great, as always does, in the final
I'd be interested in an amp troubleshooting series, perhaps how to use a scope to troubleshoot ground loops, reduce noise, determining if distortion is audible. How to determine what component to mod/upgrade for better amp performance. Maybe even go into power supply design, linear vs PWM. Keep up the great work!
Hey cool. I live about an hour from you. That’s awesome. Next time I’m at WrightPat I’ll try to reach out and drop you off some items instead of mailing them.
Thanks for your great, honest reviews and help.
God Bless
I appreciate your service @John thanks for what you are doing for us.
Hello John, that bloke from across the pond again. Yours is the only channel regarding amps I watch. I trust your knowledge and I prefer your presentation. I do wish you would dispell the myth that ALL D Class are noisy, there are good and bad in all amps. Many of the amps I bought as kits or ready built because you felt they were pretty good, no doubt some are fake. I'm glad you picked the TPA3116 as my little £3.70 ($4.70) one off EBAY although the cheapest is rather nice once the gain is fixed - 5 minutes. (On another RUclips vid). At that price I would recommend it to get started with. My most expensive amp was £14.43 ($18.43), it's the TDA7498E 2 x 160W (?). Not tried that yet. I have a 2 x 100W twin TPA3116 bridged amps that is OK. Incidently John there is a TDA7498 - 2 x 100W (?) at $7.84 on EBAY if you fancy testing a 'biggy'. I try to choose those with gain adjustment. I still miss my EL34's. Regards
2.1 Bluetooth Boards is what everyone is looking for - that could help with your views.
Also consider doing a shootout. So always test two boards at a time and then declare the winner. You could also reuse the winner and make shootout with the next challenger.
You could also start a pointing system awarding points for low noise, linearity, power, features, heat dissipation, handling lower impedance loads, efficiency and so on.
Just a few thoughts - maybe it helps.
Bluetooth boards can be bodged in if needed, which I think is a viable solution if youre into the DIY market anyways.
Confusedsoul24 you are provided good advise! John' videos are providing a valuable service for tech builders.
I'm actually looking for an amp with a built in phono stage.
@@bobert4522
I need an advice: can I take an audio amplifier board and sold a female 3.5 jack connector to left and right output contacts (to play the audio through headphones instead of speakers)?
Thanks in advance.
I'm not sure if the bluetooth is good in the frequency response compared to wired connections... I could be wrong though
Your channel is amazing, I always come here first before buying an amplifier from eBay
(And I also love the LM1875, I just don't have enough speakers to use so many of them haha)
I bought a stereo board from Taobao where it says the board was from a acassette player. Said to be 80wpc, dual 18 to 22vac source, most significantly, 4 pcs of Hitachi 2SD1185 transistors. My best buy so far incl tda 7498, lm3886, Stk4050 V etc. I use it to driver my quad jbl 4320 16 ohm rig. Really impressive, leaving my high end amps behind, e. g. NAKamichi p7, and tube amps McIntosh mc 240 and my trusted Ampex 6973 monoblocs. John's channel is superb and most credible one in terms of his analyses and comments. But even he says he's a bit weird huh?
im glad that my board make it to the final 5 haha. ive waited till the end
Found your channel while looking for small individual amps to replace an OEM factory amp. The big problem is the need for over 12v to get adequate performance. You might consider expanding into videos about solving usage problems like that: testing cheap DC-DC converters with amps, testing line level crossovers for driving bi and tri ampped separates, etc.
Once someone has chosen the small amp they need, there isn't a big need to watch more other than morbid curiosity 😄
I bought a couple three amps after watching your reviews actually four two kinter's one had the fm stereo with remote love it and the small board with the single volume knob works good not perfect but ok anyway I think your channel is a great service.
Thank you John for all your efforts on these modules. There's such a mass of stuff coming out of China and you just don't know if the description is all its cracked up to be. Recently my bookshelf sized computer speakers (active Microlab) speakers stopped working due to the silly remote control input selection. in the end it was easier to disconnect the stupid amp inside the one with it and added some external terminal posts wired direct to the x-over. The original amp remains inside for now... All i needed was a simple external amp and i came here to your channel for a suggestion. Because i have a few parts and pieces to hand i cobbled up a TDA7377 and its doing well enough. Will be following your own amp build...for sure.
peteb2 I have some PC speakers that ALSO have ‘lost’ their internal amp. I have considered doing exactly as you have - making an external amp and simply putting terminals on the back of each speaker.
Great...Gr8...Job! All contenders in one place! And the winner is 1.LM1875, 2.TDA7293 3.PAM8403 (for low vol. 5v)! Can you tell me where to buy from best online service? I want to see your next videos on, "How to assemble Amp. (mentioned above) to the Bluetooth MP3 player/Receiver!
Hey John, awesome channel! I have the PAM8403 and the LM1875 and I agree with you. They are really nice sounding amps for their designed purpose. Keep up the great work!
How do you power the amp? I was looking around for a AC/AC power brick but the amperage was only 100 - 300mA.
@Tenus123 First and foremost, be sure to use DC power. For the PAM8403 amp, I use a 5V LM7805 voltage regulator chip with a 9V battery. For the LM1875, I used bench power supply. For the LM1875, I suppose you could use a old power brick from something like a laptop. They usually output around 18V DC and 3A.
I once built a stereo amp using the LM1875's and I supplied it with split rail +/- 30VDC at around 3 amps. I'm pretty sure the LM1875 needs split rail supply.
Lots of people are running ad blockers now. I've seen the same thing happen to me.
Keep up the good videos, I appreciate them.
Cheers!
I use unblock origin but I disable it for youtube in order to support content creators.
great video as always John. I went from knowing nothing about chip amps to knowing enough to build my own from you. enjoying the discrete amp build as well.
One amplifier I think that deserves serious attention, and I dont know whether you have tested one, or are familiar with, is one I purchased recently, the Wuzhi Audio ZK-1002L. I was exceptionally impressed with it's sound and performance. It boasts 100W RMS x 2, and utilizes dual 3116 chips. I don't know whether it's advertised power is exaggerated and sensationalized, as I believe most of these amplifiers coming out of China are, but I would very be curious to see actual dyno results for it's actual power results, because it does perform quite well considering it's modest price of about $8.00 USD.
I mounted it with hot glue on a .5 cubic foot box I built out of 3/4" MDF, with a pair of older Jensen coaxial 6.5" 4 ohm car speakers I had laying around in the garage, and powering it with a 4.74A 19V DC power supply adapter, which I also hot glued onto the top of the enclosure. (It is designed to be used with a power supply between 12V and 24V.)
I built this portable bluetooth speaker in all of about two hours for my wife, who complained about the poor sound quality, and low volume levels that could be achieved with the several bluetooth speakers we had purchased, that were not working well for her. Of course, she has been spoiled by listening to music on my expertly restored, vintage Marantz 2253b receiver, and Advent heritage speakers with a JBL powered subwoofer. And she is very satisfied with the exceptional sound quality of this home built project, and takes it everywhere she goes with her. Many people have remarked about the rich sound, and I could not possibly fill the many orders from friends asking me to build them one similar. I just simply provide the link for the amplifier on Aliexpress, outline a basic construction plan, and refer them to buy any decent 6-1/2" car speakers. Otherwise this would be my full time occupation, filling orders for bluetooth speakers. LOL!
I built this for my wife, who wanted something portable that she could carry around with her, and plug into an AC 110V receptacle anywhere, (which I mounted a leather carrying strap made from an old belt) that would provide decent bass, and good quality, true stereo sound, and would conveniently connect to her cellphone for playing music.
If you have the opportunity, I would highly recommend this versatile bluetooth amplifier board, that comes presoldered, with only one pot for a simple volume control, a plug for the adapter, simple screw down speaker wire connectors, and a top lid that you assemble with screws provided. I think you would be quite impressed with it's quality and value.
And what about 7294 board?? And how is lm 3886 audio compared to Tpa 3255? Which sound best??
16:16 "and here you go, the 5 winners"
Thank you 🙏🙏🙏
Hi John. I really appreciate all your videos. Don't get discouraged about your ad revenue, these things happen and they have their fluctuations. Hope to see more awesome content from your channel.
Super intrested on your amp build,.... Can't wait...
Congrats for the video! I'm from Brazil and I learned so much about amps here! Keep this stuff dude, do what you like to do...
Recently made an art-project with seven diy speakers. So glad I found your channel. Went with the TPA3116 D2 mono because of the single supply. Subscribed! :D
TPA8610, i just pput that inside a desktop pc speaker along with battery, a boost converter and a bluetooth module. WOrks like A CHARM, not a shred of noise even at full load. It is driving a 4ohm speaker at 12v but I hope to replace it with an 8 ohm soon. It is VERY loud, especially for its size.
Just to let you and others know I tried few of your winners. Two different versions of TPA3116D2 mono which you had until the end. TDA7492 (Stereo), TDA2050, TDA 7498 (Stereo). To my ears and overall experience TDA7492 was clear winner. TPA3116D2 ranked second in terms of audio quality and noise, which you had in your winner list. I tested all of these with 8Ohms Onkyo speakers different center channel front, left and surrounds all combinations. Skm-200 and Skc-200. Aah also kinter ma-180 which produced decent clean sound but may be lacked a notch liitle power.
Forgot to mention I didn’t get any hiss with TDA7492. All my chips were sourced from aliexpress and I was running all of them with 4 pack of panasonic ncr18650b batteries. ~ 15.8 - 16.2V
Great review - Thank you.
The only chip I see missing was the LM3886. I would have liked to have seen that in the list.
Yes, that is one of my favorite audio ICs but hadn't tested a board with one at the time.
@@JohnAudioTech No problem - Thanks for your reponse. Best wishes from the UK
Great review as always. I've used a bunch of boards myself for many projects but this saved me a lot of time having to play the lottery with all these boards that are available. I've used the TPA3116 myself and it's for sure a great little board. I'll have to check out that tiny one to make a small super portable speaker! Thanks again!
I've never liked class D amp got to love the older amplifier. Great video
yes class ab FTw
I built the little TDA7297 15w x2 stereo amp kit and i was kind of impressed for the price, under $5 USD. .And even though its only 8 ohm, most smaller speakers are only 8 ohm.
Worthwhile review John. I have a couple of these little buggers. Lots of fun for little outlay...
Nice round-up of amp modules John, thanks for your effort again.
Thanks for the review of the TDA 7293.
I, TOO, foud it to be a ount sized powerhouse
I did, however, find one VERY serious design fault in both it & the TDA 7294 IC'S
IT is a design issue i believe where in the entire wattage of EITHER or both rails were load dumped into the loudspeakers
Initially i thought it was a thermal shutdown flaw.
Fortunately, with both ic's, it happened whilst driving 200 watt, 8 ohn, non-inductive resistors during an extended 40% load curve for 6 hrs.
Assisted cooling was provided along with a prototype device specific hear removal system.
It was tested that way to simulate vehicular applications.
I used2 fuses, both rails, plus BOTH A remote breaker & a 3.5 a skoblo @the speaker.
Later on, a dc offset sensor relay circuit was added
30a, 250v dpst onron.
NO BLOWN drivers or fuses.
A few breaker pops, though.
Thanks ahmgain.
BRIAN.
My aoologies for the TYPOS.
Thanks so much for your insight full comparison. Would love to see a comparison of stereo only boards in the future if you can.
I have the TA2024 at 7:20 for some years now and is connected to a TV Tuner (Winfast TV PRO II) and large speakers.
When the power drops it make that "squeak" very loud.
I've thought maybe mine is faulty somehow but now i heard you about that squeak and yes, it's the board fault :)
(worked at least 5 years plugged nonstop - no heatsink added, just the plain board)
Thanks for the video. This clears up a lot of questions about these amps. I have a couple of the TDA7293's and also a few of the LM1875's. I thought they would be good for homebrew desktop monitors.. From your process of elimination it looks like I picked good ones. I guess I'll go ahead and finish the projects now that I know they should sound pretty good and not start a fire. LOL Thanks again.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Unfortunately, good content do not attract many views. If you make videos without relevant informations, you gonna have tons of views.
btw, what's your opinion about the LM3886?
What?? Are you here too ? I Watch your vids too, there's few guys interested in sharing knowledge in audio diy. You're one of the best in Brazil!
I'm everywhere. kkkkk
Renato Brant ola Grande Renato Brand. Um abraço mas tu veio parar aqui curioso kkk igual eu... Mas eu preciso aprender estudar muito ainda kkk já vc ta apenas assistindo como se fosse uma brincadeira de criança kkk. Abração sou seu inscrito e adoro seus vídeos valew. Viu se pode me dizer se posso ligar essa tal placa descodificadora bluetooth usb radio etc made china aliexpress comprei uma recebi gostei dela na descrição só fala 7.5v a 12.8c dc mas não sei nada sobre corrente nela etc... Será possível eu ligar ela em uma bateria 12v ex de moto ou de carro to com medo de queimar ela sr. Renato e aí qual a sua dica? Resistor? Diodo? Fusível? Como posso ligar ela no carro por exemplo... Ou em uma bateria 12v grande etc... Acha possível como posso fazer mestre?...
Renato Brant viu eu adoro o som do tda7293 não sei porque gostei de ouvir achei boa a qualidade apenas não atende bem abaixo de 40hz... Mas do resto pra entusiasta como eu tá bom de mais kkk. Mas eu montei um ab puro com os famosos toschibas dois pares c5200 e a1943 etc esse sim bota qualidade e potência cara do céu esse eu não troco não vendo por nada amo ele e montei meu ab puro já faz uns 10 anos uso até hoje... Fiz até o trafo etc tudo manual placa etc foi pura bucha mas tenho até hoje 2ohms suporta dando risada nunca queimou e o trafo é 2x 34v 6A ficou um luxo só... Pena só fiz mono... Ná época foi o que deu pra fazer... Grana e eu nem tinha computador internet etc eu ia na lanhouse pagar 3horas de estudos e éra tudo leitura e fóruns kkk não tinha youtube passo a passo como hoje os novatos estão no céu e não sabem disso kkk
Thanks John,
I appreciate all your info from your reviews.
When you spoke of the -7293 I was intrigued by TDA'S data sheets which on g. #11.
In the BTL Paragraph it states that both the -7293 & -7294 I.C.S work better into 16 & 32 ohm loads than 4 ohms.
Super for me as I own 2pair of Bose 301-2' & 2 pair of Yamaha 8" 3 ways.
When using the '93 mono locks, as you stated it approached 95 watts power @1 pct. the
Bravo for your review
I use my 2 -7294 stereo amps with line level converters with my Sansui QRX 6501. I use the line converters to A): unload the Sansuis aged amps & not over load the 7294 front end & I added a Polk PW-10 powered sub.
And both amps now drive 16 ohm loads with ease.
Thanks for the info . .an LM 1875 is next on the buy sheet
Happy memorial day festivities to you & all here.
Brian
I can understand eliminating the 1969 board because of the cap fix you had to do with the ringing. But it is a class A amp and ought to sound quite a bit better than those class D chip amps, yes? Before the 12k distortion fix you remarked that it sounded very good...
It shows me, he isnt a good engineer. Jlh is totally different amp from others. He may get a wrong one, but its for hifi enthusiast, not for household typical amp. It must have the best sound of these cheap and dirty AB, and D amps. BTW I tested and use most of it. My opinion is, some tuning must have for D amps, following datasheets! The chinese circuits the base, cheap versions, with poor elements (like JLH panel)!
Pertaining to the Kinter MA-170: Hogwash. I routinely push 4 ohm loads with my 170s (I have four around the house) and have done so, sometimes for hours on end, for getting on five years now. I wouldn't have thought to try it, either, if the spec sheet hadn't specifically said it could.
I opened my MA-170 and found it uses the TDA7266 amplifier IC. Looking at the datasheet for that IC, it has a limited current rating and is not specified to handle 4 ohm loads. In older versions of this amplifier, they used a better IC that could handle 4 ohm speakers with no problem.
@@JohnAudioTech Fair enough... I've opened one of mine, and apart from the case doubling as the heat sink, had no complaints. Any idea when they switched over? Been thinking of buying a couple more of them, possibly going back to the red case version, if it's old stock.
@@LarryTheTubaBoy I reviewed one a few years ago. Someone else reviewed one before I did and it had a different IC. It could have changed yet again if it is still in production.
Class D shines on its output power and efficiency. Perfect for subwoofers. Class AB has some warmer highs but requires bulky heatsinks to cool it. I had genuine TDA7294 witch required like a 1kg of heatsink to say cool without fans witch in my opinion creates unwanted windy sounds when you try to enjoy quality. I'm not sure if blindfolded I could actually tell difference between class AB or D. Those chinese amps usually are poorly designed with lower ratings parts like capacitors, too small heatsinks, missing some parts that IC manufacturer recommends so sellers could keep price low. I have like 20 different amps. Most of them are class D because they are cheaper and smaller. Some amps with integrated bluetooth has buzz sound. But most class D amps works fine and sound quality is really good for like 10$. Power supply and good signal cables is very important too to get clear sound as well as decent quality speakers. And we usually feed low bit rate digital audio signal to them so even class A or AB can't show its best anyway since signal is already bad quality.
well....I like the sorting and all that...great job.
For replacement of the TDA2822 amplifier board, you can try out TEA2025 ic, it has 16 pins, it is a stereo class AB chip, gives clean 2.5w+2.5w power and 5w in bridge mode (it can be bridged very easily)....and the quality is very good compared to TDA2822....I had made the board(TEA2025) previously and satisfied by the results.
John really appreciate your channel... would you be able to do a bluetooth amp showdown?
I would love to buy TPA3116D2 mono board. Excellent quality, pcb with ground plane, high current capable shielded chokes, Large heatsink, higher quality caps and of course those chunky connectors for better and noise proof connections - package comes in cheap like $6 here in Bangladesh. Class D is more efficient than class A so this might be the board for home and party applications and sound systems.
The first amp you chucked I did build but I did change the inductors and a couple of capacitors. For what it is was OK for what I wanted at the time
Hi, can you tell me if if you need an insulater on the back of the TDA 7294 and the heatsink to ground regards John.
Problem playing with diy amp is you'll always wonder off to something better, thus keep changing out. Rather than that route get to the endgame at first try rather than climbing the better ladder. Your endgame amp will be based on latest greatest scientifically measured Purifi 1ET400A Amplifier 850-1k though.
That 100w class D and 5 others didn't pass my tests but a different version of that 150w class D did and it did not require any mods for bass...it also has 2 instead of 1 power input diodes...it looks almost identical and has HW-446 instead of V4 printed on it. Still only 60 watts into 4 ohms @ 24 vdc though...
I would agree. The 3116 are very quiet with clean power supply. I would like to see more. Headphone and maybe some preamps.
Many Thanks, I'm just in the process of buying one of these prebuilt boards or kits & looking around for pointers to the very best of the many out there now, i see a massive range on eBay from China. I'll be checking up your other vids as i'm new here p.s. i.m.o. even for 8 ohm or 16 ohm speakers ....amps that can't easily handle 4 ohm speakers are to be avoided, if all else is right, it seems to be that the power supply isn't stiff enough as in ultra-budget stuff, i've always gone to the power supply first to upgrade an amplifiers sound quality. Gr8 vid & very informative
I can confirm that the cased "Breeze Audio" amplifier is a very good product. At least the later versions with 35V rated capacitors inside. The earlier versions with 25V rated caps, could cause some problems with a 24V power supply. Run them at 19V, and they will go on for a long time. I use the Breeze amp for my TV-set, and it has been turned on for more than 3 years now. And no problems so far. The only drawback (at least for me) is the typo-error in the back. How is it possible to write "SPERKERS" when it should be "SPEAKERS", on a such nice piece of aluminium chassis?
What's wrong with my amplifier/receiver? Speakers having buzzing or humming sounds. However, I can't hear it already when the amplifier is already in use, it's only while on idle and turned on.
John, we desperately need a 2024 version of this
Have you tried or tested the JLM L20 V9.2 board?. I think you will find they are the most natural, low distortion, "straight wire with gain" amps around. They are based on Douglas Self's amplifier design. Thanks for all your videos and testing.
A video on where to source suitable power supplies (ready made or kits). I have no problem obtaining the amps but power supplies seem to be more difficult to source.
If you have the space you could use computer power supply’s. I use two to get 24 volts not the most elegant solution but it works perfect
Another test , would be to increase the voltage, past the specifications to see if you can get more power before destruction
Hi what would you recommend for clean lowest distortion amp at lower/higher volumes for best audio between your winners or any other DIY amp module available?
what is the best tda chip for 4ohm - 2 ohm load?
Any chance to see DIY mic pre-amps with 12v DC videos?
Have you ever tested a TPA3255 board from the likes of AliExpress? Specced for 260W / 4 ohm, distortion 1% (per channel) | 150W / 8 ohm, distortion 1% (per channel)
Wow, the amp kits I bought for my 2.1 set up made it in your eliminations. TDA7293 on woofer and LM1875s per channel. Got a beefy 120W toroidal transformer, dual rail rectifier kit, 2.1 pre-amp mixer, fuses on all voltage rails for each board and mains input, beefy radiators. Total cost excluding the case was around 100$. But my god, does it sound good. Driving 2 8" old russian paper cone full range drivers per channel on a open baffle design and a 10" W250 woofer in a closed box. Only missing a decent tweeter. If anyone has a suggestion for a low power flat response tweeter in the 90-92db range, I would be quite appreciative.
Nice long comment, could go a little longer on the old Russian speakers, sounds like fun. Pre USSR or post USSR?
im building a system for fun. to use my self taught knowledge. i have a friend in russia, a bonafide engineer, and a friend and fellow audio enthusiast and I are putting our heads together. i cant help but often dream about making something that people love and want to have.
what im saying is that i appreciate you do reviews and that you engage with your audience.
Can you advise a pre-amp & amp boards to drive two 8ohm speakers in a 1960 record player. There is 18v AC but O could fit a small DC PSU if required
great video John, but would you consider selling the TDA8946 mixer board. I looked around and couldn't find one, that would fit perfectly for what I want to do. thanks mike
I have some old (real authentic )Sony IC chips somewhere I don't even know if they're good? I Salvage them. I'm wanted to see if you would be interested in them?
I saw those two direct-coupled class-AB boards there from the start and guessed you would be keeping those ones. Most of the industrys' leading PAs are direct-coupled.
I dont have any problem with pam8610 no noise clear sound but not very detail😅 ,i think thats enough powerfull amplifier ,only 12v 3@ can handle twin 10in speaker (@8ohm 300w) very well n balance sound output
The Internet is seasonal. Here in the northern hemisphere it is the season to get out and do things too. But that will change.
Keep it up please John. Your stuff is really appreciated.
Hey John..how can I reach you ? As a newbie, I have a question about using 1 power supply to feed two mono boards. I understand I can runn parallel lines to each board (v+ 0 v-) but the trouble I have is sizing. The boards and how much power I need seems vague and I dont knwo enough about sizing - plus it doenst help when they say you need 36V 18-0-18 but people call it (and how you order) is 18V center tap. So magnify that if I am looking to size two mono amps that say it takes 24V. is that 12-0-12 each , or 48 (24-0-24)...Very confusing
I have a question, I have 2- 3116 60 watt boards. Can I use 1 24v dc to DC to power both boards? I'm a little new to this. Thank you
For the price it is what it is, I've had a few that worked fine but most just fail on me and I use the proper voltage.
Can you count ready made amps as kits ?
i want to know from where do the hissing sound come, does it came from the bluetooth!? it's difficult to find amp boards with no hissing sound.
I guess that why impedance matching transformers are use. also it help effecnicy of the amplifier when it diving low impedance loads that it is not design for.
And suggestion which one of these would be a great replacement for the onboard amps in these chinese suitcase turntables (like that Crosley Cruiser) because the onboard amps seem to generally cut off low frequencies (not just for the speakers, which makes sense but EVEN through the RCA and headphone output. Which is insane. So i'd love to mod one of these little suitcase turntables to get at least a BIT of better sound out of them. Especially with a swapped pickup & cartridge.
Which can power speakers with shared ground stereo (3.5mm)
Great video, thank you very much! Was waiting for this one.
Hey John, I have a couple questions.
1. have you tried the Hifiberry Amp4? I've been using this and I like it a lot. I power it with a 15V audio grade power supply, and use it on 8 ohm speakers. It does not seem to get hot.
2. why do you prefer 4 ohm speakers?
what amp would you recommend for single subwoofer,speaker wattage,300 watts and below?
Which one will you recommend to make Bluetooth surrounding rear speakers? And what transmitter can pair up together
Awesome work brother
Is there any significant difference between these amps and a PA amp (aside from wattage)? Like the type that musicians use for performances -- they mic their smaller guitar/bass amps and send that through a larger power PA.
Great video! I bought JLH1969 class A boards and sounds really good , need a huge heatsink though.
@xTheDarkSiderx Yes， Class A is not efficient. I have some very old 2N2055 left , they are good sounding transistor, and the newer 2N3055 are not as good as old one. I must agree with your point. A well designed class AB with slightly higher quiescent current can sound very good too. I also built ACA class A amp designed by Nelson Pass, a small 5 watter, and of course , some tube amps and also experimental magnetic amplifiers. :-)
xTheDarkSiderx (
Have you tried the 600W at 2ohms 32-46V? TPA3255
Hey man, I got a zk-ht21 (wuzhi audio) and I wanted to know if there’s a way to remove the high pass filter. Little too high for me (around 225 hz). Where would it be in the amp board? Thanks man
the power (3 wire) caused me more trouble then the effort... I'm a total novice so found a board that suited 9v - 24v jack input more suited to my pull apart and re-build stuff.... anyway, cheers. love ya work
I have a tpa3118 board power on but no sound after input signal
As I have been lurking the Class-D toob world for quite a while... I am slowly discovering that the DIY low-cost advantages are being negated by power supply costs (e.g. 20VDC 5A+ notebook power bricks) ... FWIW, my benchtop is 30V 5A... perhaps some guidance on power supplies for these nifty little widgets. (have also used 2@ 12VDC (12.6V) for a good, stable 24VDC current source).
New power supplies can be costly. I look for old notebook supplies.
is it possible to attach a mini amp (let's say 50w) just before the speaker? either individually or in pair,what would you recommend. I have a motorcycle..
Sir can u please tell me snr of Tda 7294 ic??? Its not specified on data sheet.
I have an assembled JLH Class A Chi-Fi amp from AliExpress and I don’t have an idea if they measure and perform well. There’s no noise and didn’t distort except when played loud. But to my ears they don’t sound right.
Change the 2n3055 to mjl1302
Hi jhon please help me I am testing my class d amp board and I found some issues,I will try to explain it as clearly as possible.
1)it plays well for 20 mins or so and after that it pauses every 2 seconds or so(like-play..thump..play... Thump...play..thump so on...)
2)if I unplug power supply and replug it,playtime depends on how long I unplugged the supply(max30 mins play time) and after that issue persists again.
3)as some people here suggested and I too thought it was a heat issue and pulled heatsink (it is not getting hot at all to touch).then I found that there is no thermal paste on it,it is just super glued.I thought that is the issue and pasted some thermal paste and put the heatsink on the chip(just pressed on to it ,not glued).the problem still exists!!!
4)I am running it on 24v supply and about 1 amp current.is this issue?power adapter isnt getting hot to touch.I powered it using car battery stepped up to 24 v and still having same issue
5)I am running board with recommended ohm load speakers,4 ohm 50w.this happens even at low volume.
The board is tpa3116d2.
I too would have guessed a thermal issue, but you seem to have eliminated that as a cause. Since it happens at low volume, that could eliminate a supply current issue, although I'd still make sure the amp is getting the current it needs. Monitor the supply voltage with a fast responding meter while using the amp. It could just be a bad board. They are cheap and could have bad/failing parts. I'd try a new one if you can.
@@JohnAudioTech thank you very much John,I just think I found the problem,when I touch one of the capacitors at input the music keeps playing(when music actually breaks,it continuous to play if I touch one of the caps) and when I touch the other input cap it stops playing.should I replace those caps?its definitely not a heat issue.its the bad cap as you said
@@JohnAudioTech here is the problem-ruclips.net/video/IdBZxToUAHo/видео.html
Hey John, Great review!
I needed some advice from you though: i Had a single TDA7498 AMp that worked well on it's own (3+years)
Then i decided to add one more with a common power supply and added 2 pre amps one for each.
But issue is both amps burnt off when my rca cables moved and made some noise.
I never had this problem when running a single amp.
I suppose it's some grounding issue?
All connections done were the same as the single amp setup except now both amps sit on the same PSU
TIA
Did you also try a LM3886? It's use by some big name brands
Nice .. is there a decent 4.1 amp that is bluetooth with bass and treble controllers.. I want it for my car ..
Hi!
I'm building a small Bluetooth speaker, and don't quite know what amp I should use..
The 3.3" speakers I want to use is either:
20w 4ohms
10w 4ohms
10w 8ohms
And I'm gonna pick the battery after what is most suitable for the amp to get a decent nomber of battery life.
The size of the Bluetooth speaker is around 6x3.5x2 inches.
Any suggestions?
The PAM8403 is a good start. If you need more loudness, an amp that will run on 12 volts would be better. An amp with built in bluetooth capability would simplify the construction. I haven't tested any yet.
@@JohnAudioTech
Hi!
Thanx!
Is is possible to run a 3.7v battery, and step up to 12v?
Or just buy a 12v battery?
Choosing between 1800 mAh 12V or, 6000 mAh 3.7V
And I plan on using a CSR8635 bluetoothchip
Just started watching your vids great info don't change your format.