It literally states IN THE MANUAL to trailer and transport on that bracket!!! Im gonna go with what the manufacturer states not some guy on a RUclips short...
It’s not very uncommon for these guys to act like professionals and it catches the algorithm. Agree you with you entirely. The manufacturer states it should be like that for a reason!
@theboyali_gae2062 you won't listen to the manufacturer who spends millions in R&D anf literally writes you a manual on how its supposed to be used but you'll listen to some random guy on a you tube short... makes perfect sense...🙄
Please review the owners manual that came with your outboard engine for how to stow your engine properly during transport. There is NO chance, of a material stress induced failure as described in this video.
Look at the mounting location for the end of the hydraulic ram. Now look at the pivot of the transom. That service flap is an inch away from the and of the pin holding the ram. This is bs coming from a mechanic that probably went to tech school before he ever changed a spark plug on a lawnmower
Not true at all try hitting pot hole at 65 mph and look what happens to that tab it is designed to support to motor while change or rebuilding the trim unit not for trailering I've seen alot of people come to my shop with them broke and think warranty would cover it lol
@@therealsaltyc I don't doubt it bends when hitting pot holes. Hitting a hole in the road is exactly why it's made from light gauge steel. It's designed to fail in that case
No that's not what is designed for its designed to be used when rebuilding or changing seals in the trim unit that's it. That's the only reason you will not find anything written by yamaha saying that tab is made for trailering my boat lol 😆
Had a 200 HP Yammy on the back of our Key West. Trailered it for 10 years before we finally sold her. Used that bracket because the manual and the dealer said to. Never broke nothing and used to make 500 mile runs down to FL a lot.
I have trailered every boat I have owned for my entire life with that kickstand and have never had a problem with any parts “failing” because of it. Quit buying stupid gimmicks because the internet told you to
You are wrong. Yamaha literally recommends buying a bracket. They even make a Yamaha branded one. It should be common sense that you don’t want to transport your outboard tilted up, just use your brain
The engine puts much more load on all those parts when it is running down the lake. The engine puts way more torque into the water than its own weight.
Don’t know about a Yamaha but my Johnson 150 has these (both sides, 1 solid unit) but it rests on the actual mounting plate. Mechanic specifically told me that’s what it’s designed for, to use while trailering, when I tried to buy an after market transom saver. Asked me “why do u wanna spend money on that? This engine has one built in.
The ram is still holding the weight the bracket just stops bouncing possibly blowing a seal, it is made to transport. There are no crazy forces on the assembly
As someone who grew up working on boats, I can confirm it does in fact stress it. But it's so little that it won't be an issue for at least 50 years. I've seen those brackets break on boats from the 60s and 70s if they have them but even then, it was always the little arm that broke which can easily be repaired with a welder. I have yet to see them broken on anything newer unless a major even occurred such as flipping the boat into a ditch. The owners manual says to use them for a reason. It's designed for transport. Many boats now have one on each side. Trust the manufacturer when they say to use it.
The guy with the inboard outboard who forgets to raise his lower unit and drags a line all the way up the boat ramp proved that lower units are strong as hell.
I had a 1980 Johnson 115hp outboard I purchased new with the power tilt and trim. That bracket was the exact method to be used for transporting the boat and motor on the trailer! You tilted the motor to the full up position, toggled the bracket into place, then lowered the motor until the trim rods fully retracted and tightened the motor against the bracket. Then you turned the motor to the side to let it rest against a turn stop. That securely held the motor in place for transport. No need for any type of transom savor. In fact the owners manual said not to use a transom saver device as structural damage to either the boat or motor could take place due to in compatible movements caused by the transom saver. By the way, that rotating rod as you are calling it is designed to do exactly carry all the stress that motor can put against it as it is transferring every bit of stress and force the motor is generating vertically, laterally and horizontally to the engine bracket and then to the transom of the boat. That is its sole purpose in life.
I mean the Manual on my called that the tilt trailer lever. It has been used to hold the engine in place from 1974 to current use with no issues. all the add on gadgets are just that add on sales for companies. Yes some engines need a extra part since the outboard does not has a lock
This is to relieve the stress on the transom not the bracket. The weight of the engine is in the power head or engine block itself. When it’s all the way up it’s over the pivot pin. That bracket can withstand WAY more force and vibration than the trailer can put on it.
I have been trailering boats for 89 years and i always take the motor off and lay it down in bottom of boat never broke any brakets, never stressed the lower section you are pointing to. 35 hp to 250 hp, 1 mile or 1,000 miles doesn't matter its coming off.
Yall literally trying to solve a problem Johnson and Evinrude solved 40 years ago. OMCs had trailering brackets also to be used as service brackets. Even the later models had the lower trailer bracket and a higher up service bracket.
Very interesting. When I bought my Lund rebel SS with a 50 horse Mercury four-stroke back in 2018, the merchant, I don't recall if it was the salesperson or the service person, instructed me to use that service bracket to transport the boat and motor, specifically saying that I did not need anything else.
I don’t understand why any of this is done other than to sell products. I have been leaving my outboards in the down/running position (slightly trimmed up for good ground clearance) for 30 years. I have never had an issue with this and 90% of the boats in Florida I see are transported this way 😂
Just put an appropriately sized piece of timber across between the mounting bracket and the tilt and drop the tilt on it. Just make sure it doesn't fall out if the tilt isn't hydraulic.. Anyway, far less stress transporting your engine up and down, like it's designed to be used, as long as you have enough road/ prop clearancel.
I have always trailered and stored the motor on that bracket. Except Instead of just resting on the bracket I bottom out the hydraulics so it clamps down. Never had an issue and don't see any signs of one
Perhaps you should talk to outboard manufacturers who instruct in their manuals the bracket MUST be used to transport the outboard....I guess they dont know anything on outboard design...
No it's not. 2017 yamaha 150 manufacturer book says DO NOT trailer it on this. Because it could flip when hitting a bump and motor would drop down causing damage. Says right in manual also to use a motor support device aka.Transom Saver
Transom savers that you first described are valuable for small/old boats with big motors. Takes a ton of leverage off the transom if trailering down rough roads. Most big boat's with 100+ HP probably have well made transoms to deal with all that power and don't need to worry beyond the little factory kickstand.
trim rams defeat the purpose and doesn’t save stress on your transom during transport. transom saver bracket mounted to your trailer is the only way to go especially if you have a fiberglass boat. it’s very important and if you don’t think so you will learn the hard expensive way.
I noticed the brand name "Motor Stik" was facing the camera. He prolly made a stick one day and now producing it for sale....by the way....I invented the "Chip-Clip".
The stress is on the head of that rotating rod which should be the strongest point. The weight of the motor head is also forward again putting the weight on the head of that component and on the transom.
The only thing I can say is, the reason is not for that bracket but TO SAVE YOUR TRANSOM! I have a 400lbs engine yanking on my transom and on puddles in the road, trust me, 400lbs yanking up and down doesn't sound so great for your transom.
This is also one of the leading causes of cable binding and harness failure. Especially If you have a shallow splash well. I show all my customers that bring in boat with motors stowed like this.
I’ve driven down a bad dirt road 3 times for 6 hours with the engine brackets shown here What I did have to fix was the fibreglass pod the motor sits on
So if you don’t have a motor stick. How do recommend trailering? I personally would rather use the service bracket then put stress on the tilt mechanism.
My 2006 T50 manual says NOT to use this lever to transport with. Apparently some Yamaha motors you can but mine says it is really a safety when working on the motor. YMMV
What a joke. I have been towing boats for 30 plus years on that bracket. Every owners manual has stated to tow on that bracket. All these folks wasting money on stuff they don't need.
Even my 1969 bayliners original user manual that came with the boat which js rare to get with a antique boat says to transport with it on the service bracket but i also use a oitboard motor support and lockdown system and ratchet strap so ot doesnt put any strain on transom motor and brackets and ect. Its bad to drove a oit board sith oit sometime of lock down system yo keep it from bouncing snd movong wien in town especially dowm interstates.
This right here is called a Jack Wagon. You never want to listen to a Jack Wagon. Jack Wagons can do serious damage to all sorts of things on your boat. I’ve always put my motors down after trailering them. I don’t know if it’s true or not but it made sense when I heard that the oil will seep over the rings with the motor sitting on its side like that for to long. I did also invest in a motor prop that connected to my trailer after my last boat with a 300 on it. Just seemed to bounce around way less.
Bro the actual fuck are you talking about? Driving around with it locked is not going to put any more stress on the internals than you would by using the engine, theyre not made of glass, thats like saying dont lower the vehicle service lift on to the service locks because you can stress the lift arms, ITS DESIGNED FOR THAT EXACT PURPOSE
It literally states IN THE MANUAL to trailer and transport on that bracket!!! Im gonna go with what the manufacturer states not some guy on a RUclips short...
😂 but you mustve been looking for this video
It’s not very uncommon for these guys to act like professionals and it catches the algorithm. Agree you with you entirely. The manufacturer states it should be like that for a reason!
Manufactures don’t give you the best service advice I would never listen to a manufacture about what they tell me you do with any motor vehicle
@theboyali_gae2062 you won't listen to the manufacturer who spends millions in R&D anf literally writes you a manual on how its supposed to be used but you'll listen to some random guy on a you tube short... makes perfect sense...🙄
@@bee2333Its a youtube short bud. Not how that works.
Please review the owners manual that came with your outboard engine for how to stow your engine properly during transport.
There is NO chance, of a material stress induced failure as described in this video.
Look at the mounting location for the end of the hydraulic ram. Now look at the pivot of the transom. That service flap is an inch away from the and of the pin holding the ram. This is bs coming from a mechanic that probably went to tech school before he ever changed a spark plug on a lawnmower
Not true at all try hitting pot hole at 65 mph and look what happens to that tab it is designed to support to motor while change or rebuilding the trim unit not for trailering I've seen alot of people come to my shop with them broke and think warranty would cover it lol
@@therealsaltyc I don't doubt it bends when hitting pot holes. Hitting a hole in the road is exactly why it's made from light gauge steel. It's designed to fail in that case
No that's not what is designed for its designed to be used when rebuilding or changing seals in the trim unit that's it. That's the only reason you will not find anything written by yamaha saying that tab is made for trailering my boat lol 😆
@@therealsaltyc okay you win. I'll keep that in mind when I'm around outboards skifs from now on
Had a 200 HP Yammy on the back of our Key West. Trailered it for 10 years before we finally sold her. Used that bracket because the manual and the dealer said to. Never broke nothing and used to make 500 mile runs down to FL a lot.
Used that braket for many years for transport no problems was also told by Yamaha dealer when bought to use for transpoting.
Thank you for this comment
I’ve been transporting our 1984 OMC Seadrive on that bracket since day one. Zero issues. It takes the pressure off the hydraulic cylinders.
That stick of yours still puts the stress on the same component
Don't be silly troll. LoL of course it still has stress but stick moves its pressure point. Reverse lever bro
I have trailered every boat I have owned for my entire life with that kickstand and have never had a problem with any parts “failing” because of it. Quit buying stupid gimmicks because the internet told you to
Your pretty green to the outboard world I take it
You are wrong. Yamaha literally recommends buying a bracket. They even make a Yamaha branded one. It should be common sense that you don’t want to transport your outboard tilted up, just use your brain
@@couchpotatoes5158how is it common sense when it says to do so in the manual
The engine puts much more load on all those parts when it is running down the lake. The engine puts way more torque into the water than its own weight.
Don’t know about a Yamaha but my Johnson 150 has these (both sides, 1 solid unit) but it rests on the actual mounting plate. Mechanic specifically told me that’s what it’s designed for, to use while trailering, when I tried to buy an after market transom saver. Asked me “why do u wanna spend money on that? This engine has one built in.
Just saying the Yamaha like in this video has that bracket on both sides also, it’s one solid piece as well.
That's actually called a trailer lock. It's meant to be used while trailering the boat. Been using it 40 years
Most of all it puts stress on your wallet.buying junk you don't need.
Top comment
The ram is still holding the weight the bracket just stops bouncing possibly blowing a seal, it is made to transport. There are no crazy forces on the assembly
This video is the reason why youtube should bring back the dislike count
As someone who grew up working on boats, I can confirm it does in fact stress it. But it's so little that it won't be an issue for at least 50 years. I've seen those brackets break on boats from the 60s and 70s if they have them but even then, it was always the little arm that broke which can easily be repaired with a welder. I have yet to see them broken on anything newer unless a major even occurred such as flipping the boat into a ditch. The owners manual says to use them for a reason. It's designed for transport. Many boats now have one on each side. Trust the manufacturer when they say to use it.
I usually just pinch a 2x4 inbetween so my motor is closer to the running position... Less bounce on the bracket that bolts to my (very old) transom
Wrong...that's YOUR Idea! The owners manual begs to differ
Nope, the owners manual my of my Yamaha literally says to buy a Yamaha transport bracket like shown in the video
@@couchpotatoes5158then you put too much stress on one trim ram
@@wazup3333 the trim ram is meant to take much more stress than that
The guy with the inboard outboard who forgets to raise his lower unit and drags a line all the way up the boat ramp proved that lower units are strong as hell.
That fancy piece of pipe is literally stressing the same exact part as what the service bracket is doing....
Actually, it's not.
I had a 1980 Johnson 115hp outboard I purchased new with the power tilt and trim. That bracket was the exact method to be used for transporting the boat and motor on the trailer! You tilted the motor to the full up position, toggled the bracket into place, then lowered the motor until the trim rods fully retracted and tightened the motor against the bracket. Then you turned the motor to the side to let it rest against a turn stop. That securely held the motor in place for transport. No need for any type of transom savor. In fact the owners manual said not to use a transom saver device as structural damage to either the boat or motor could take place due to in compatible movements caused by the transom saver.
By the way, that rotating rod as you are calling it is designed to do exactly carry all the stress that motor can put against it as it is transferring every bit of stress and force the motor is generating vertically, laterally and horizontally to the engine bracket and then to the transom of the boat. That is its sole purpose in life.
Been transporting outboards like this for 50 years! Never a problem!
I usually stick a piece of wood with a bungee cord for support, works great 👍
30 years doing this, but I should buy a system that wasn't even invented when my motor was made? Good grief, I'll just keep rolling the dice!
The swivel bracket is literally the component that is supposed to take the stress.
I used a 2x4 and the trim pinches it. Then run a strap corner to corner around the leg to prevent any bouncing. Works like a charm
That’s crazy. I’ve always transported my boat with the motor on the service bracket.
Because that is its intended purpose
WRONG been transporting at 75mph with every one I've had for 40yrs on no less than 7 different rigs
That's what it's there for, I've trailered motors like this for 30 plus years, never had an issue.
Benn doing it this way for 20 years and my grandfather before me. My 2019 etec literally states to do it this way in the owners manual.
I've had my boat transported for 20 yrs...never had an issue using the manufacturer's recommendation
You are wrong. The dealer actually shows you to trailer it that exact way.
I got scared until I read the comments and realized I’ve been doing it the same way as everybody else and now I feel better.
I’ve always used it.
I thought it was the travel bracket.
I think tension while towing dont put any pressure compared to pressure while on the water that little component lifts the whole boat.
I mean the Manual on my called that the tilt trailer lever. It has been used to hold the engine in place from 1974 to current use with no issues. all the add on gadgets are just that add on sales for companies. Yes some engines need a extra part since the outboard does not has a lock
This is to relieve the stress on the transom not the bracket. The weight of the engine is in the power head or engine block itself. When it’s all the way up it’s over the pivot pin. That bracket can withstand WAY more force and vibration than the trailer can put on it.
That bull. It says in the manual to transport it on sevice bracket.
I have been trailering boats for 89 years and i always take the motor off and lay it down in bottom of boat never broke any brakets, never stressed the lower section you are pointing to. 35 hp to 250 hp, 1 mile or 1,000 miles doesn't matter its coming off.
Trailered outboards for years using the bracket in the down position and no issues, read the manual.
(Video sponsored by motor stik)
That component still has stress on it. Use both of your methods to purchase things you do not need.
Yall literally trying to solve a problem Johnson and Evinrude solved 40 years ago. OMCs had trailering brackets also to be used as service brackets. Even the later models had the lower trailer bracket and a higher up service bracket.
Says you. I’ve been doing this 40 years and absolutely nothing has ever happened to my engines shafts or anything else
Very interesting. When I bought my Lund rebel SS with a 50 horse Mercury four-stroke back in 2018, the merchant, I don't recall if it was the salesperson or the service person, instructed me to use that service bracket to transport the boat and motor, specifically saying that I did not need anything else.
I don’t understand why any of this is done other than to sell products. I have been leaving my outboards in the down/running position (slightly trimmed up for good ground clearance) for 30 years. I have never had an issue with this and 90% of the boats in Florida I see are transported this way 😂
Just put an appropriately sized piece of timber across between the mounting bracket and the tilt and drop the tilt on it.
Just make sure it doesn't fall out if the tilt isn't hydraulic..
Anyway, far less stress transporting your engine up and down, like it's designed to be used, as long as you have enough road/ prop clearancel.
Sounds like my friends who tell me not to start my car with the A/C running cuz somehow it will mess it up
I have always trailered and stored the motor on that bracket. Except Instead of just resting on the bracket I bottom out the hydraulics so it clamps down. Never had an issue and don't see any signs of one
Perhaps you should talk to outboard manufacturers who instruct in their manuals the bracket MUST be used to transport the outboard....I guess they dont know anything on outboard design...
That is literally what that lever is made for..no such thing as a "service bracket"
Some trailers aren't equipped with a roller in back to use a Transom Saver. I would suggest using that support bracket than nothing at all, thank you.
I just put a peace of wood between where the mount and the ”engine” is
It doesnt stress anything dude. Thats what its there for 🤣
No it's not. 2017 yamaha 150 manufacturer book says DO NOT trailer it on this. Because it could flip when hitting a bump and motor would drop down causing damage. Says right in manual also to use a motor support device aka.Transom Saver
Explain how that useless thing you bought doesn’t put stress on the same component as the bracket? Lmao
Transom savers that you first described are valuable for small/old boats with big motors. Takes a ton of leverage off the transom if trailering down rough roads. Most big boat's with 100+ HP probably have well made transoms to deal with all that power and don't need to worry beyond the little factory kickstand.
Transport on the service bracket, got it 👍
trim rams defeat the purpose and doesn’t save stress on your transom during transport. transom saver bracket mounted to your trailer is the only way to go especially if you have a fiberglass boat. it’s very important and if you don’t think so you will learn the hard expensive way.
So bouncing down the road puts more stress on the midsection than what my 300hp can put on it while pushing my 3500 pound boat through the saltwater?
Been doing it my whole life..no problem yet
I noticed the brand name "Motor Stik" was facing the camera. He prolly made a stick one day and now producing it for sale....by the way....I invented the "Chip-Clip".
The stress is on the head of that rotating rod which should be the strongest point. The weight of the motor head is also forward again putting the weight on the head of that component and on the transom.
That was always my emergency stop gap in case something happened with my transom saver. I’d never trust it for long periods of time. Good share!
Me with two chunks of PVC pipe: 🤓
Boat accessory manufacturers: 💀
You absolutely transport on that bracket but after you continue to trim down until those two cylinders suck all the way in.
Also! This vs well over 100hp pushing a 18' boat tgrough water, waves, current and wind vs stowing it like this... common!
Those motor sticks for the cylinder we make the seals go out I used one on mine and now I have to repack the cylinder
All the information I'd seen said to use that bracket for transport. I got a transom saver anyway.
I’ve been in the marine industry for over 20 years. And what this gentleman is saying is spot on.
Guess I’ve been doing it all wrong for 24 years and no problems. I better stop
Yep 2010 Yamaha F50 manual says "do not trailer with bracket down as a support. Use other devices if engine can not be trailered in the down position
That’s putting to much stress on the trim ram
Lmao
The only thing I can say is, the reason is not for that bracket but TO SAVE YOUR TRANSOM! I have a 400lbs engine yanking on my transom and on puddles in the road, trust me, 400lbs yanking up and down doesn't sound so great for your transom.
This is also one of the leading causes of cable binding and harness failure. Especially If you have a shallow splash well. I show all my customers that bring in boat with motors stowed like this.
Trailered my 50 johnson 25 years on that bracket.
...No problems
That bracket is NOT for transporting the motor. Period.
I wonder how much “motor stix” payed him to make this 🤣
I’ve driven down a bad dirt road 3 times for 6 hours with the engine brackets shown here What I did have to fix was the fibreglass pod the motor sits on
If you have two pins, you need two sticks.
I was literally waiting on Run DMC to kick off it’s tricky tricky tricky with the critters in the background
So if you don’t have a motor stick. How do recommend trailering? I personally would rather use the service bracket then put stress on the tilt mechanism.
That the way I do it and have installed over 300 outboard engines..we ship them like that .never hurt anything
Yamaha does make a stick like that for the larger v6 outboards. 250 - 350. Of course it is expensive, but they do say to use them
I kept anticipating " This speech is my recital" to start playing
No more stress than than normal operation
It will also put a ton of stress on your transom.
Really no more stress then just trimming up the engine up
It won't hurt the motor but it does put stress on the transom. I use a transom saver.
Thanks for telling us this cause I was shown this by a place that sold me my boat .cheers
😂 I hope no one takes this seriously 😂
My 2006 T50 manual says NOT to use this lever to transport with. Apparently some Yamaha motors you can but mine says it is really a safety when working on the motor. YMMV
Not true....I'm sure there is a video of him at a boat ramp somewhere on RUclips
😂😂😂
I always put the little kickstand down every time I leave the ramp
What a joke. I have been towing boats for 30 plus years on that bracket. Every owners manual has stated to tow on that bracket. All these folks wasting money on stuff they don't need.
block wood works in there done for years never had issue
Even my 1969 bayliners original user manual that came with the boat which js rare to get with a antique boat says to transport with it on the service bracket but i also use a oitboard motor support and lockdown system and ratchet strap so ot doesnt put any strain on transom motor and brackets and ect. Its bad to drove a oit board sith oit sometime of lock down system yo keep it from bouncing snd movong wien in town especially dowm interstates.
I use both for extra security to protect the transom and the trim.
Bro I was waiting for the "Ice Ice baby" beat to go off!
I have never had a problem with it.....
This right here is called a Jack Wagon. You never want to listen to a Jack Wagon. Jack Wagons can do serious damage to all sorts of things on your boat.
I’ve always put my motors down after trailering them. I don’t know if it’s true or not but it made sense when I heard that the oil will seep over the rings with the motor sitting on its side like that for to long. I did also invest in a motor prop that connected to my trailer after my last boat with a 300 on it. Just seemed to bounce around way less.
Bro the actual fuck are you talking about? Driving around with it locked is not going to put any more stress on the internals than you would by using the engine, theyre not made of glass, thats like saying dont lower the vehicle service lift on to the service locks because you can stress the lift arms, ITS DESIGNED FOR THAT EXACT PURPOSE
Use a block of wood
I use a transverse 2x6 about 16" long right there where it comes together. Pinch down on it and you’re good to go.
Anyone else thought those bug noises in the back was "tricky" by run dmc? 💀