I like that Partscaster. I already knew about threadlocker but I had never thought of putting heat shrink tubing on the hex tool. Great idea for handling and identification of your hex tools.
I’m sure there must be an applicable old Chinese proverb about the use of Thread Locker on Fender saddles. I’m going to have to look it up in the encyclopedia of old Chinese proverbs, by Dr. Randy Andy.
@@frankentronics Notice this was on the traditional Fender-style individual steel saddle piece that is stamped from flat stock and formed to shape, then heat treated for strength. When this piece is drilled for string height adjustment screws, the resulting area of thread contact in the hole is limited to just that small curved thin part of the saddle. Compare this to a cast or machined alloy saddle where the drilled hole is in an intentionally massive part of the metal, so the area of thread contact is much greater, providiing higher grip and vibration resistance for the adjustment screw. So, an alloy saddle is usually less likely to need thread locker to stay put once you string up and play because you have more friction for the screw, provided the hole was drilled and tapped within normal tolerances with accurate tools. If you DO need to use the Loctite trick on alloy saddles (aluminum, brass, etc.) with 'loose' thread contact, put a small drop in the hole, run the height adjustment screw all the way in and back out to distribute a thin film of Loctite on the threads of the hole and screw, and let these dry separately before reassemby and setup. The hole will grip better to help the saddle resist vibration-induced vertical movement but the Loctite will still be flexible enough to allow your final setup adjustment to be made before the parts take a 'set' to each other under string tension. Use the blue 222 Loctite to allow remedial adjustment and be able to easily take the pieces apart later. The choice of saddle material (steel vs. other materials) is another discussion, relating to perceived sound quality or other personal preferences such as parts authenticity on an older, valuable guitar. The Loctite trick is a good secret tech setup weapon for the Fender-type stamped steel saddles.
Oh, I was actually asking @lisaayers1975 this question, as she was saying that she only uses blue thread locker. But, in any case, going back to your answer, does that mean that you do tech work as a side business?
@@GuitarQuackery Me? I was selling MIRC guitars for a while and doing a setup on everyone I sold. I also built a few "Barncaster" style guitars using rusted tin or license plates for pickguards. But now I only work on my own or friends' guitars. These days I'm not doing much of anything.
what about loctite 222 ?
Oh, I don’t even know about 222. What is that one like? I should pin your comment.
@@GuitarQuackery It is a thread-locker fluid that is not permanent. It will hold threaded joints well, but can be "broken loose" with some effort.
@@k9er233 I'll definitely add it to the arsenal. Thanks.
Yes! More on strlng action adjustments and other nit-picky topics, please? And, thank you 🎵
You bet. More videos on those topics coming up. Make sure you click like, share and subscribe.
I like that Partscaster. I already knew about threadlocker but I had never thought of putting heat shrink tubing on the hex tool. Great idea for handling and identification of your hex tools.
it’s actually still in the shop. The owner is going to pick it up on Saturday.
There is also a pink thread lock that has less strength than the blue. It's purposed for small hardware like that of which you are working with.
Thanks for this information. I am now finding out through these comments that there are in fact, quite a few different kinds.
Awesome video! Learned a lot about how to maintain a setup on a fender bridge! Blondie looks like an cool well talken cared for guitar!
I’m sure there must be an applicable old Chinese proverb about the use of Thread Locker on Fender saddles. I’m going to have to look it up in the encyclopedia of old Chinese proverbs, by Dr. Randy Andy.
I've been using thin C.A. glue on screw threads for many years. I feel it resonates better than lock tite and still breaks off when needed.
I’ve heard of people using CA glue. I guess it doesn’t grip all the way if the threads are not 100% clean.
@@GuitarQuackery I typically put one tiny drop on the removed screw mid thread, let it dry then screw into place.
Interesting. I’m glad you pointed out the procedure. Is this for vintage style Fender saddles, like those on the Strat in this video?
@@frankentronics I've used it in this situation and others
@@frankentronics Notice this was on the traditional Fender-style individual steel saddle piece that is stamped from flat stock and formed to shape, then heat treated for strength. When this piece is drilled for string height adjustment screws, the resulting area of thread contact in the hole is limited to just that small curved thin part of the saddle. Compare this to a cast or machined alloy saddle where the drilled hole is in an intentionally massive part of the metal, so the area of thread contact is much greater, providiing higher grip and vibration resistance for the adjustment screw. So, an alloy saddle is usually less likely to need thread locker to stay put once you string up and play because you have more friction for the screw, provided the hole was drilled and tapped within normal tolerances with accurate tools. If you DO need to use the Loctite trick on alloy saddles (aluminum, brass, etc.) with 'loose' thread contact, put a small drop in the hole, run the height adjustment screw all the way in and back out to distribute a thin film of Loctite on the threads of the hole and screw, and let these dry separately before reassemby and setup. The hole will grip better to help the saddle resist vibration-induced vertical movement but the Loctite will still be flexible enough to allow your final setup adjustment to be made before the parts take a 'set' to each other under string tension. Use the blue 222 Loctite to allow remedial adjustment and be able to easily take the pieces apart later. The choice of saddle material (steel vs. other materials) is another discussion, relating to perceived sound quality or other personal preferences such as parts authenticity on an older, valuable guitar. The Loctite trick is a good secret tech setup weapon for the Fender-type stamped steel saddles.
Good ideas. I don't get the Darth Vader mist in the background, but all good.
The mist is a humidifier that runs in the winter when the air tends to get dry. Dry air damages musical instruments.
Thanks for watching.
are you making barbecues there? :) what is smoking behind you?
It’s the humidifier.
All my guitars are named "Samonanbatch". Don't ask.
I won’t tell.
@@GuitarQuackery It's not them, It's Me.
Isn't thread-locker just overpriced nail polish?
I always thought nail polish was just overpriced Thread Locker, LOL.
Yep. Just curious, are you a guitar tech?
Just a shade tree guitar tech.@@GuitarQuackery
Oh, I was actually asking @lisaayers1975 this question, as she was saying that she only uses blue thread locker.
But, in any case, going back to your answer, does that mean that you do tech work as a side business?
@@GuitarQuackery Me? I was selling MIRC guitars for a while and doing a setup on everyone I sold. I also built a few "Barncaster" style guitars using rusted tin or license plates for pickguards. But now I only work on my own or friends' guitars. These days I'm not doing much of anything.