It happens in most Squiers too. The easiest fix, if not the nut & bridge and assuming the fret is straight, is the neck alignment. I loosen the guitar neck screws and put only the High-E and Low-E strings with enough tightness for them to pull the neck. I simply tilt the neck sideways until the high & low E are balanced and then tighten the neck screws.
You are right, on some bolt-on neck guitars it is possible to just tilt the neck into correct alignment. But on this one, both E strings were too close to both edges. This bridge string spread is too wide for that neck. They make these 2-1/16 inch string spread bridges specifically to fix this problem.
Nah, it's just that the vintage Fender spec is these 55-56 mm wide bridges, which is why they all have the strings running very close to the edge of the fingerboard, especially in higher positions. You have to be very careful when beveling the fret ends on these guitars, making sure you don't remove any working area of the fret. Squiers come with narrow bridges, so you can only have this issue on one side if the neck is misaligned. Same for more modern Fender bridges.
Mr Quackery... I've turned in recently to your channel...i must say that it's very addictive. Your sence of humour is rather good...i find myself chuckling at a number of comments... this is good!! I will continue to watch you as i find your honesty rather refreshing in an otherwise bogus world. Very good... best to avoid farming unless you want to get muddy...
Welcome aboard! I don't mind getting muddy, actually... but since I only wash on Thursdays, it is not very practical for me to grow my own food. So, I decided to build a RUclips video library, to make good use of my "free" time. Hopefully it helps the guitar playing community.
Speaking of spacing, another thing that Fender has not corrected until today is the distance between the poles of the neck pickup. For them to be aligned, the distance should be 50mm (and not 52mm).
And another annoying thing is the cutout on the on the back plate. That cutout is supposed to give us easy access to the trem block, so that you we put the strings into the holes of the trem block, without removing the plate.
Talking about other annoying things, the G-string pole is higher than it should and the guitar has two tone pots (in 20 years I never found a single custumer that used them both on a Strat).@@GuitarQuackery
@@rodolfoamaralguitaryou have never found a customer that uses both tone controls? There is no way that is a true statement 🤣. That's one of the best features for a Strat.
Hi. Please make a video about string breaking at the tuning post. This is really common especially with the 1st string and locking tuner. It would be interesting to see this under the microscope.
It looked like your low E string was pretty close too, but if there's more space between the edge of the fretboard on the low E side than on the high E side, then your neck has shifted and loosening the neck and pulling it into place and then retightening it is all that's needed to fix it. Happens during shipping on some guitars. Happened to my Charvel and this simple fix has fixed it. 👍👍
Yes, this is something that I forgot to talk about, as I was working late hours and falling asleep editing. I will either make a follow up video or perhaps redo this one and include the neck angle (center line) issue, which can be the culprit on some guitars, but was not the case on this one. I don't know... do you think I should make a follow up video, or do you think it's better to redo this video?
Hmmm. When I got my Charvel, and I looked for videos about the problem, I found some where they actually removed the bridge and rerouted the bridge cavity to move the bridge over. Luckily, I found one (and only one) explaining the simple fix of loosening, adjusting, and retightening the neck. I was freaking out till I found that one video. I even had a friend who got a new guitar last month and he thought the bridge was mounted wrong too. I explained the easy fix and it worked for him. So, maybe it would be good to have another video out there that might save someone from freaking out like me and my friend. I feel sorry for the ones moving their bridges. Whatever you decide, I'll thank you now on behalf of all the worried people with out of wack necks. ✌Subbed ya. ✌
If you have just a few frets that the string slips off the side, you may be able to fix that by putting a dab of solder on the end of the fret and rounding it over to make it smooth. I've used Silver solder, a slightly harder form of solder, to do this on a couple of my guitars and it's worked quite well. I came up with this idea after seeing how much solder has an affinity for fret wire. It's easy to do, and just takes a few minutes.
@@GuitarQuackery Yes, definitely the case on the guitar you were working on. 👍 I just wanted to share a tip/fix regarding the occasional fret with string slippage.
@@picksalot1 Of chorus, thank you for sharing your tip. I have heard of a similar fix for other types of fret repair needs. I have never tried it myself. Thanks. Much appreciated.
Don't forget there's not only the string spacing, but the bridge screw spacing issue also. Not every bridge will fit your guitar without re-drilling! I had to hunt for the Higway One bridge to accommodate the US-sized saddles from graphtech to a Mexican fender with the wider screw spacing, for example.
I think I should make a follow up video that shows other reasons for string slippage. Or maybe I should re-edit those video and include the other reasons in this video.
There are occasional discrepancies that happen at factories, that later get discovered. I am soon posing a review video of a Fender American Professional II Strat, with some issues.
@@GuitarQuackery Fender must turn out thousands of guitars annually. I'm sure there are going to be some "discrepancies". I look forward to that video.
@@dugbert5 Correct. And I don't want to come across as someone that is just trashing the manufacturers (unless it's Harley Benton, LOL). A brand is just a name, but it all boils down to the factory workers that worked on a specific guitar. And it all ends (or should end) with QC, which is in most cases just fiction.
GREAT VID...however...I fixed my high E string from slipping off he fretboard by loosening the screws on the neck and actually aligning the neck by shifting it towards the LOW E string side. You really never play the low E up high and it had no effect on the nut side so it can be a little closer. I will be measuring my bridge on all of my strats though. Never even considered there could be that much difference.
As some other viewers have pointed out, it is actually true that on some guitars, the neck is simply tilted a little bit. I should have mentioned that in the video. This was not the case on this guitar. Both E strings were too close to the fretboard edge, on this particular guitar. And this is an issue that we see with some runs of Fender guitars.
Thanks for the info. I should really make a follow up video, or re-edit this one, as plenty of viewers pointed out that I left out this kind of information (which I really should have included). But my time is spread out really thin, between the work that I have to do on my customers' guitars and the RUclips efforts. I'm just a one-person operation, so there's only so much I can do... and for every video that I publish I later think of details I should have included.
Every MIM tele/start I own had this problem' usually tweek the neck to fix it. You should invent some kinda small devise that sits on top of the saddles that pulls the saddles together and locks them in place.
@dingusfuzzk 1:36 lonnkt2755 this bridge is basically a Babicz idea, make large walls and rounded square saddles with rolling pinion centers would be better still like current Babicz bridges. Cool designs, there is a 2 point trem for strats now, and it's on the Aerodyne nobody bought from last year that's a secret sleeper.
I need to make a follow-up video, because I honestly forgot to mention that the string slippage could be caused by another issue, which a few of you have pointed out, which is the misalignment of the neck.
@@GuitarQuackeryon one of my Strats the first string (alto E) saddle wants to sit tilted away from the others. It appears the hole for the saddle screw, while located correctly, is not flush on one side and when the saddle is pulled or pushed toward the headstock the screw-head actually counter sinks slightly into that hole at one side. I can think of a couple ways to remedy this without replacement of any hardware but I am interested if you have any suggestions? Many thanks! And I am enjoying your channel a lot it is quite valuable. All the best!
@@leewalton6882 I've seen this on quite a few bridges. Sometimes the holes are not evenly spaced and sometimes the saddle, screw & spring assembly sits crooked. I've even seen bent screws. I can't really suggest what would be the best solution in your case, without having the opportunity to see it in person.
If your bridge is a 6-point mounting system with 2-7/32" spacing, then the part is amzn.to/48BwQ1h (affiliate link) which is the exact part used in this video. But please, before ordering, make sure your mounting spacing is 2-7/32" to make sure this is the correct part. Hope this helps.
It is true that one might never run into this issue. But I do see it often on the workbench. I wouldn’t be able to tell you what percentage of guitars have this issue. It seems to be just on some runs of Fender guitars, but I am not sure which period of production.
I personasll, just losen the screws on the neck and nudge the neck until the spacing is better, however MIM and American guitars have different spacing, so a bridge change might be necessary, its not a hard task.
Ive had this with Gibson les pauls twice , guess they got the nut carve wrong, with gibson you surely expect much better, was able to sort one to extent by adjusting the wrap around bridge to compensate, guess the other standard will need a nut job. I have one fender thar does this and the bridge is the issue after all that time the caliper is obvious , thanks i have another bridge somewhere , hopefully the screws are in the right place lol is the only solution on a les paul to re do the nut ?
I would have to see the guitar in person to really advise you. Sometimes Gibson folks notch the saddles at the wrong places and sometimes they install the bridge posts at the wrong place. There are more possibilities than just the nut. In fact, I think it is unlikely that the nut is causing this.
Sure, this is the exact Fender bridge assembly used in this video is amzn.to/48BwQ1h (disclaimer - this is an affiliate link that pays me commission at no extra cost to you). Hope this helps. Thanks.
I think it’s this video, The Issue No One Talks About when Filing the Nut on a Guitar or Bass ruclips.net/video/HvUR7PGbQ7c/видео.html I plan on making at least one more video that explains this issue, in a better way.
Do you have a guitar with the Floyd, that has this issue? In this video, I am only addressing the issue of a bridge with a string spread that is too wide for the neck. As some other viewers have pointed out in the comments, this is not the only possible reason why a string might be slipping.
@GuitarQuackery I did so just after I left the comment. Listen, I'm a stickler for my guitars being set up and playing perfect. I'm from Boston but moved to Virginia ten years ago. Back home, I had no issues with finding good techs. I had choices. Here, there's one shop an hr away from me that does questionable work. I'll never take my guitars back there again. So I'm stuck doing my own work. I have all the tools, but I just don't trust my work. I'll get everything set up, play the guitar, and find some issue (i.e., too much/not enough relief, action/ radius of action, isn't right, etc). I always feel like somethings wrong and could be better. That cycle just repeats itself. I've been playing for over 25 years. I never used to even think of this. I knew when I needed a setup but that was it. I never cared about the particulars like measurements and specs. I suppose I'm being delusional, but it's really taken the joy from playing my guitars. Having a competent tech is vital for me now. I wish there was a way for me to get my guitars in your hands.
I can see that you’re a big fan of The Who. Oh, course, I’m really happy to hear that you think I would be a good match for your needs, but I’m not sure what I can do to help you remotely. I do understand that finding a tech that is a good match can be a journey.
@GuitarQuackery yeah Doc, The Who are the gods of rock, in my opinion. I don't feel that's even up for debate, lol. It was leaving Boston and coming here that I began to stress over every little aspect of a setup. Before that, I'd get a setup every few shows and carry on. Never even bothering to check neck relief check, never mind adjusting it. I've learned how to do everything. I'm meticulous with it all. I just feel I play guitars better than I do fix them, lol. Anyway, it is what it is. There's no sense in moaning. I'll get over it eventually. Cheers, doc!
Make sure you don't mistakenly buy the wrong one. First, you have to identify if it's a 6-point or a 2-point system. Here are some affiliate links. The 6-point system - amzn.to/3JN792V The 2-point system - amzn.to/3QxKjAl I just installed the 2-point system on another Strat and it worked out, too. BTW, these are affiliate Amazon links, so I do get a small commission if you purchase through those links, but it is at no additional cost to you (or anyone else). Hope this helps.
Although, I personally prefer the metric system, these measurements are in inches, because it is a US product. When you look around to buy this bridge, you have to specify 2-1/16 inch.
Cheep eastern import guitars put together without care and import taxes is the problem.. You gets what you pay for. These issues are become more widespread… Cheep skate factories chasing your CHEEP bucks. And they arrive off the AMAZONb buss every day..
This occurs on USA Gibsons, Fenders, G&Ls, you name it. A nut cut the smallest fraction too big on the high e and you'll have slippage, #1 culprit that is a hard to deal with- guitars from custom shops thats necks shoulders and frets have been rounded over too aggressively to facilitate the broken in feel. One fret can ruin a guitar neck. The cheap junk from China is raw, they don't attempt to finish a neck.
The solution is, buy a guitar from a decent manufacturer that still cares about quality, instead of charging for the brand name. So your saying that FENDER make a over priced guitar with a part that does not function correctly ! and the only way to solve it, is to buy another part from Fender? American manufacturering, probably the worst in the world.
The video is supposed to be about fixing string slip, not hoiw to (badly) set up a guitar. Incidentally, they are designed to have a break angle on the nut - wrapping the strings down the post provides this, not your way. This is a waste of time and bad instruction.
The brake angle on the low E string, is too severe. that potentially presents some other issues, if you look into subtleties. I do mention this and a couple other videos.
It happens in most Squiers too. The easiest fix, if not the nut & bridge and assuming the fret is straight, is the neck alignment. I loosen the guitar neck screws and put only the High-E and Low-E strings with enough tightness for them to pull the neck. I simply tilt the neck sideways until the high & low E are balanced and then tighten the neck screws.
You are right, on some bolt-on neck guitars it is possible to just tilt the neck into correct alignment. But on this one, both E strings were too close to both edges. This bridge string spread is too wide for that neck.
They make these 2-1/16 inch string spread bridges specifically to fix this problem.
Nah, it's just that the vintage Fender spec is these 55-56 mm wide bridges, which is why they all have the strings running very close to the edge of the fingerboard, especially in higher positions. You have to be very careful when beveling the fret ends on these guitars, making sure you don't remove any working area of the fret.
Squiers come with narrow bridges, so you can only have this issue on one side if the neck is misaligned. Same for more modern Fender bridges.
Mr Quackery... I've turned in recently to your channel...i must say that it's very addictive. Your sence of humour is rather good...i find myself chuckling at a number of comments... this is good!! I will continue to watch you as i find your honesty rather refreshing in an otherwise bogus world. Very good... best to avoid farming unless you want to get muddy...
Welcome aboard! I don't mind getting muddy, actually... but since I only wash on Thursdays, it is not very practical for me to grow my own food. So, I decided to build a RUclips video library, to make good use of my "free" time. Hopefully it helps the guitar playing community.
Speaking of spacing, another thing that Fender has not corrected until today is the distance between the poles of the neck pickup. For them to be aligned, the distance should be 50mm (and not 52mm).
And another annoying thing is the cutout on the on the back plate. That cutout is supposed to give us easy access to the trem block, so that you we put the strings into the holes of the trem block, without removing the plate.
Talking about other annoying things, the G-string pole is higher than it should and the guitar has two tone pots (in 20 years I never found a single custumer that used them both on a Strat).@@GuitarQuackery
Most Fenders are like that...
My Tokai is perfect 😍
70s Strats have a lot of issues.
@@rodolfoamaralguitaryou have never found a customer that uses both tone controls? There is no way that is a true statement 🤣. That's one of the best features for a Strat.
A very good teacher, and I dig his sense of humor and how he comes across.......subbed!
Thanks for the kind words.
Hi. Please make a video about string breaking at the tuning post. This is really common especially with the 1st string and locking tuner. It would be interesting to see this under the microscope.
Good idea. I should remember to do that next time I encounter this issue on the workbench.
It looked like your low E string was pretty close too, but if there's more space between the edge of the fretboard on the low E side than on the high E side, then your neck has shifted and loosening the neck and pulling it into place and then retightening it is all that's needed to fix it. Happens during shipping on some guitars. Happened to my Charvel and this simple fix has fixed it. 👍👍
Oh, I see others have already said what I said. 🤦♂🤷♂🤣✌
Yes, this is something that I forgot to talk about, as I was working late hours and falling asleep editing. I will either make a follow up video or perhaps redo this one and include the neck angle (center line) issue, which can be the culprit on some guitars, but was not the case on this one.
I don't know... do you think I should make a follow up video, or do you think it's better to redo this video?
Hmmm. When I got my Charvel, and I looked for videos about the problem, I found some where they actually removed the bridge and rerouted the bridge cavity to move the bridge over. Luckily, I found one (and only one) explaining the simple fix of loosening, adjusting, and retightening the neck. I was freaking out till I found that one video. I even had a friend who got a new guitar last month and he thought the bridge was mounted wrong too. I explained the easy fix and it worked for him. So, maybe it would be good to have another video out there that might save someone from freaking out like me and my friend. I feel sorry for the ones moving their bridges. Whatever you decide, I'll thank you now on behalf of all the worried people with out of wack necks. ✌Subbed ya. ✌
@@mikeshanermusic That’s interesting. I’ll have to look for those videos. It does sound like a very extreme way to fix a problem.
If you have just a few frets that the string slips off the side, you may be able to fix that by putting a dab of solder on the end of the fret and rounding it over to make it smooth. I've used Silver solder, a slightly harder form of solder, to do this on a couple of my guitars and it's worked quite well. I came up with this idea after seeing how much solder has an affinity for fret wire. It's easy to do, and just takes a few minutes.
In case the entire geometry was off. The string spread at the bridge was simply too wide, in my opinion.
@@GuitarQuackery Yes, definitely the case on the guitar you were working on. 👍 I just wanted to share a tip/fix regarding the occasional fret with string slippage.
@@picksalot1 Of chorus, thank you for sharing your tip. I have heard of a similar fix for other types of fret repair needs. I have never tried it myself. Thanks. Much appreciated.
@@GuitarQuackery The idea popped into my head as something perhaps worth trying. I was shocked how well it worked.
@@picksalot1 Very interesting.
Don't forget there's not only the string spacing, but the bridge screw spacing issue also. Not every bridge will fit your guitar without re-drilling!
I had to hunt for the Higway One bridge to accommodate the US-sized saddles from graphtech to a Mexican fender with the wider screw spacing, for example.
Correct, but in this case, we were talking about a US Fender and a US bridge for a US Fender.
@@GuitarQuackery for sure, just a note for others to consider.
I think I should make a follow up video that shows other reasons for string slippage. Or maybe I should re-edit those video and include the other reasons in this video.
I can see this happening with a Partscaster but it should never happen on a factory guitar.
Fender occasionally mixes parts on some lines. It's baffling it's allowed.
There are occasional discrepancies that happen at factories, that later get discovered. I am soon posing a review video of a Fender American Professional II Strat, with some issues.
@@GuitarQuackery Fender must turn out thousands of guitars annually. I'm sure there are going to be some "discrepancies". I look forward to that video.
@@dugbert5 Correct. And I don't want to come across as someone that is just trashing the manufacturers (unless it's Harley Benton, LOL). A brand is just a name, but it all boils down to the factory workers that worked on a specific guitar. And it all ends (or should end) with QC, which is in most cases just fiction.
I always learn something cool watching your videos
Glad to hear it.
GREAT VID...however...I fixed my high E string from slipping off he fretboard by loosening the screws on the neck and actually aligning the neck by shifting it towards the LOW E string side. You really never play the low E up high and it had no effect on the nut side so it can be a little closer. I will be measuring my bridge on all of my strats though. Never even considered there could be that much difference.
As some other viewers have pointed out, it is actually true that on some guitars, the neck is simply tilted a little bit. I should have mentioned that in the video. This was not the case on this guitar. Both E strings were too close to the fretboard edge, on this particular guitar. And this is an issue that we see with some runs of Fender guitars.
"I'm not going to show you everything, but I can make a make a separate video." Quite the character.
Did I really say that?
Glad I found your channel. I greatly appreciate what you do. Please keep doing it..
Thank you! Will do!
I used a Kluson bridge. They have a model with the vintage style screw pattern and the narrower string spacing.
Thank you for the tip, definitely.
Thank you, really saved me.
Glad it helped!
Excellent! Don't forget there are different width saddles. 10.5....10.8...etc. Different nut spacings,too. Fender Strats can drive you crazy
Thanks for the info. I should really make a follow up video, or re-edit this one, as plenty of viewers pointed out that I left out this kind of information (which I really should have included).
But my time is spread out really thin, between the work that I have to do on my customers' guitars and the RUclips efforts. I'm just a one-person operation, so there's only so much I can do... and for every video that I publish I later think of details I should have included.
@@GuitarQuackery Well,you "left in" a whole lotta good stuff! Enjoyed the video,cheers👍
Thanks... your feedback helps... because any positive criticism is ultimately going to help me make better videos in the future.
Every MIM tele/start I own had this problem' usually tweek the neck to fix it. You should invent some kinda small devise that sits on top of the saddles that pulls the saddles together and locks them in place.
G&L saddle lock bridge
@dingusfuzzk 1:36 lonnkt2755 this bridge is basically a Babicz idea, make large walls and rounded square saddles with rolling pinion centers would be better still like current Babicz bridges. Cool designs, there is a 2 point trem for strats now, and it's on the Aerodyne nobody bought from last year that's a secret sleeper.
I need to make a follow-up video, because I honestly forgot to mention that the string slippage could be caused by another issue, which a few of you have pointed out, which is the misalignment of the neck.
@@GuitarQuackeryon one of my Strats the first string (alto E) saddle wants to sit tilted away from the others. It appears the hole for the saddle screw, while located correctly, is not flush on one side and when the saddle is pulled or pushed toward the headstock the screw-head actually counter sinks slightly into that hole at one side. I can think of a couple ways to remedy this without replacement of any hardware but I am interested if you have any suggestions?
Many thanks!
And I am enjoying your channel a lot it is quite valuable.
All the best!
@@leewalton6882 I've seen this on quite a few bridges. Sometimes the holes are not evenly spaced and sometimes the saddle, screw & spring assembly sits crooked. I've even seen bent screws.
I can't really suggest what would be the best solution in your case, without having the opportunity to see it in person.
Seen this problem before with strats now I know how to solve it, neat!
The other solution is, buy a Squire.
Exactly which fender bridge is the replacement you're using?
If your bridge is a 6-point mounting system with 2-7/32" spacing, then the part is amzn.to/48BwQ1h (affiliate link) which is the exact part used in this video. But please, before ordering, make sure your mounting spacing is 2-7/32" to make sure this is the correct part. Hope this helps.
Had the same problem on a squire telecaster.
That's why you should have all your guitars inspected by the Department of Guitars www.youtube.com/@GuitarDepartment
Nice! I subscribed. Cheers.
Awesome, thank you!
Thank you for video!!!
You’re welcome.
Yaknow what fixed my problem?
I stopped bending the high e string the wrong direction lol
LOL.
I’ve been playing Strats for 35 years and never had this problem
It is true that one might never run into this issue. But I do see it often on the workbench. I wouldn’t be able to tell you what percentage of guitars have this issue. It seems to be just on some runs of Fender guitars, but I am not sure which period of production.
Buying a better bridge like Kluson can ensure the quality problem?
The correct string spread measurement across the saddles is the key element to improve this particular situation.
I've had this happen but only with a Gibson LP and an Epiphone 335
You had a bit of bad luck to have two guitars with that problem.
I personasll, just losen the screws on the neck and nudge the neck until the spacing is better, however MIM and American guitars have different spacing, so a bridge change might be necessary, its not a hard task.
This guitar did not have a misaligned neck.
Ive had this with Gibson les pauls twice , guess they got the nut carve wrong, with gibson you surely expect much better, was able to sort one to extent by adjusting the wrap around bridge to compensate, guess the other standard will need a nut job. I have one fender thar does this and the bridge is the issue after all that time the caliper is obvious , thanks i have another bridge somewhere , hopefully the screws are in the right place lol is the only solution on a les paul to re do the nut ?
I would have to see the guitar in person to really advise you. Sometimes Gibson folks notch the saddles at the wrong places and sometimes they install the bridge posts at the wrong place. There are more possibilities than just the nut. In fact, I think it is unlikely that the nut is causing this.
Can you give the Fender number part of the replacement bridge you used?
Sure, this is the exact Fender bridge assembly used in this video is amzn.to/48BwQ1h (disclaimer - this is an affiliate link that pays me commission at no extra cost to you).
Hope this helps. Thanks.
Do you explain the slight break angle in another video?
I think it’s this video,
The Issue No One Talks About when Filing the Nut on a Guitar or Bass
ruclips.net/video/HvUR7PGbQ7c/видео.html
I plan on making at least one more video that explains this issue, in a better way.
@@GuitarQuackery Thanks, yes, that's the video. Very interesting. Looking forward to more insightful videos!
Thanks!
Thank you very much for your Super Thanks. I have your Les Paul on my bench as we speak, BTW.
But what if you have a Floyd Rose trem?
Do you have a guitar with the Floyd, that has this issue?
In this video, I am only addressing the issue of a bridge with a string spread that is too wide for the neck. As some other viewers have pointed out in the comments, this is not the only possible reason why a string might be slipping.
Yes,- it’s 30 years old but had the problem since day 1.
That's happened to me several times on stage to ! UGHHHHHH
I can feel your pain.
A replacement bridge isn't necessary and your string instalation gets an F.
People will have different opinions and of course this is the place to discuss. I’d be curious to know a little bit more about what you’re thinking.
I hate when that happens!
You’re not alone.
I didn’t know Peter Falk was a guitar luthier…
LOL.
Where are you located?
NYC midtown Manhattan. Feel free to check out the video Guitar Repair Shop at the Center of the World
ruclips.net/video/hc9ZYB2alPQ/видео.html
@GuitarQuackery I did so just after I left the comment. Listen, I'm a stickler for my guitars being set up and playing perfect. I'm from Boston but moved to Virginia ten years ago. Back home, I had no issues with finding good techs. I had choices. Here, there's one shop an hr away from me that does questionable work. I'll never take my guitars back there again. So I'm stuck doing my own work. I have all the tools, but I just don't trust my work. I'll get everything set up, play the guitar, and find some issue (i.e., too much/not enough relief, action/ radius of action, isn't right, etc). I always feel like somethings wrong and could be better. That cycle just repeats itself. I've been playing for over 25 years. I never used to even think of this. I knew when I needed a setup but that was it. I never cared about the particulars like measurements and specs. I suppose I'm being delusional, but it's really taken the joy from playing my guitars. Having a competent tech is vital for me now. I wish there was a way for me to get my guitars in your hands.
I can see that you’re a big fan of The Who.
Oh, course, I’m really happy to hear that you think I would be a good match for your needs, but I’m not sure what I can do to help you remotely.
I do understand that finding a tech that is a good match can be a journey.
@GuitarQuackery yeah Doc, The Who are the gods of rock, in my opinion. I don't feel that's even up for debate, lol. It was leaving Boston and coming here that I began to stress over every little aspect of a setup. Before that, I'd get a setup every few shows and carry on. Never even bothering to check neck relief check, never mind adjusting it. I've learned how to do everything. I'm meticulous with it all. I just feel I play guitars better than I do fix them, lol. Anyway, it is what it is. There's no sense in moaning. I'll get over it eventually. Cheers, doc!
I have to buy a new bridge?! FNA!!!
Make sure you don't mistakenly buy the wrong one. First, you have to identify if it's a 6-point or a 2-point system. Here are some affiliate links.
The 6-point system - amzn.to/3JN792V
The 2-point system - amzn.to/3QxKjAl
I just installed the 2-point system on another Strat and it worked out, too.
BTW, these are affiliate Amazon links, so I do get a small commission if you purchase through those links, but it is at no additional cost to you (or anyone else).
Hope this helps.
Use mm. Please.
Although, I personally prefer the metric system, these measurements are in inches, because it is a US product. When you look around to buy this bridge, you have to specify 2-1/16 inch.
Cheep eastern import guitars put together without care and import taxes is the problem..
You gets what you pay for.
These issues are become more widespread…
Cheep skate factories chasing your CHEEP bucks.
And they arrive off the AMAZONb buss every day..
This occurs on USA Gibsons, Fenders, G&Ls, you name it. A nut cut the smallest fraction too big on the high e and you'll have slippage, #1 culprit that is a hard to deal with- guitars from custom shops thats necks shoulders and frets have been rounded over too aggressively to facilitate the broken in feel. One fret can ruin a guitar neck. The cheap junk from China is raw, they don't attempt to finish a neck.
This one was used guitar that the customer bought, I believe on Reverb.
This problem is actually most common on vintage spec American Fenders.
The solution is, buy a guitar from a decent manufacturer that still cares about quality, instead of charging for the brand name.
So your saying that FENDER make a over priced guitar with a part that does not function correctly ! and the only way to solve it, is to buy another part from Fender?
American manufacturering, probably the worst in the world.
Yup by Ibanez the JS model for you Fender neck lovers. I had a Malmsteen strat briefly and it had the same problem.
There are a few issues that offer an opportunity for improvement, with Fender guitars, as well as with some other manufacturers.
The video is supposed to be about fixing string slip, not hoiw to (badly) set up a guitar. Incidentally, they are designed to have a break angle on the nut - wrapping the strings down the post provides this, not your way. This is a waste of time and bad instruction.
The brake angle on the low E string, is too severe. that potentially presents some other issues, if you look into subtleties. I do mention this and a couple other videos.