My first Mora was the Garberg, 2nd Eldris, 3rd Woodcarving Basic, tied all three together as a wood working kit. 71, retired carpenter/wood worker 30+ years.
Not a survival knife? Are you kidding me. Dave Canterbury, Lilly, and top published Swedish survivalist say that this is one of the best survival knives on the market. Please note that the geometry of the tip is epic due to the fact it has a very minimal chamfer. Allowing the knife to be very strong at the tip. Other knives have long chamfers that ride up on the spine which makes the knife very weak. THIS IS MY GO-TO SURVIVAL KNIFE.
@David Munir I'm liking the carbon version. It doesn't have a paint job like the other Walmarts cheap ass knives. It's actually blued, impregnated bluing. I can't find a single flaw on this knife. And it is sharp as a scalpel.
Just got my second Mora Garberg in carbon steel. I cannot find one imperfection on this knife. I like how this knife is not painted, it is blued. Well guys and gals, I'm hooked on Mora.
There all great knifes. Have almost all there stainless steel options (humid climate that 1095 doesn't work in Florida well rusts if you don't oil it after every use)
Thank you for an excellent video, I was led to feel bad about having a rat tail knife, you pretty much answered every question I had about knives. I carry a hatchet and a bow saw anyway since I live in Scandinavia.
Great choice for a review . Didn't know they made the Garberg in carbon ; that's a bit of a game changer . Thanks , Aaron , for this fair and objective review of these Moras . Love the versatility and functionality of their modular sheath options . ATB
Great video, really enjoyed the comparisons and the very honest opinion. I have both carbon and stainless and absolutely love them both, both are tough as granite and have served me well camping in all seasons. I bought the stainless one when it first hit the stores in England, and bought the carbon a year later, there's not much difference tbh, it's as u say, what u prefer. I must disagree tho with one thing u said, about the stainless holding an edge longer than carbon, I've found the carbon holds an edge longer, not by a great deal but it does, and is faster to sharpen. I now use my stainless for fishing or diving, and my carbon for camping and I highly recommend both and for all to watch this video. Thank u
I think both models have the same hrc. The stainless 14c28n has about 0.62 carbon content and the carbon version c100 (1095) has about 0.95 carbon content. Thats why the carbon version holds an edge a bit longer then the stainless. If they have used lets say 440c , the s.v. would holde an edge for longer. Also an important aspect that many miss out is that the carbon steel in general is much tougher or better say "springy-er" then a stainless. Over all, in reality for normal knife use you wont feel a diffrence between the two. Both are great choices. Enjoy them !
I've had a Mora carbon HD companion rust on me while just sitting in the drawer. I cleaned it up but still. I'd have purchased the SS version if it had been available. So when this came on the market it was an even better version of that and I grabbed on in SS. I think we forget how much Stainless Steel is a wonder material. Elon is building his new Mars rocket out of it. And his pickup truck. The St. Louis Arch is built out of SS and has never rusted or needed any attention other than cleaning pollution off of it. Car chassis's would have been built almost entirely out of it decades ago had it been affordable. Now it is but sealing carbon steel has gotten much better so cars actually do last 10+ years now. We forget that not all that long ago it would have been unheard of to keep a car past 50k miles. It just didn't happen that much. You had a relationship with your car dealer because the turn-over was so much higher. People in the 1940s through the 1970s only kept cars for a few years. So Im a huge fan of Stainless. It gets too much hate in the knife community.
@@RJT80 I'm fully with you, the old ways were so much better. As for the knife, if you like the stainless steel better then great! It's amazing. I probably prefer the carbon version because of the maintenance, I have Zippos, pipes, cigars and just love the fact I have to work at them to keep them going. So for my carbon knife I always rap just a little vaseline on it after sharpening. Seems to do the trick.
I have the black carbon for 5 years. I live in NY with humidity being average. I have 4 very small circles of rust that don’t effect the knife. I’m still very happy with it.
I got my Mora Garberg yesterday in carbon steel, with the leather sheath and a Casström No.3 dangler. What a beautiful and functional set. The blade ripps threw hard wood like a beast and the handle sits very tight and comfortable in the hand. I put on a pinky lanyard so if hands get wet slipping onto the blade is almost impossible. I'm normally only in love with combat/utility knives.. But in this case this knife is somehow an exception. The scandy grind is a beast in cutting a chicken in pieces for dinner. The bones get cut in half like butter. The dangler gives the ability to wear the knife all day long with and without a heavy backpack. Even when sleeping it does not bother. Take a Fällkniven CC4 sharpening stone with you, some olive oil both for cooking and blade maintenance and this knife is a non nonsense option. I love my Steel Will dark angle 900.. and my Esee cm6/6.. But this little beast has a lot of potential and charm. Greetings from Germany
I went with the stainless because it's kinda unique for a knife and I think it's the only mora that uses that type of stainless and it's one less carbon blade I need to maintain and keep an eye on. I wanted a tough wood craft type knife that I didn't need to worry about corrosion as much
Dear Gideon’s Tactical: thanks for this review. I was looking for a full tang knife to carry on a six month hike of the CDT. I appreciate this review and it helped me in my choice (Garberg, stainless). More than many hikers will carry. However I won’t be having to borrow a knife like I’ve seen many do. Should meet any need or requirement I have on the trail. Thanks again.
I'm totally fine with a 85€ Mora... The Quality on all of them is awesome! So why not charge 85€ for such a great knife! In comparison to other knives it's a very good deal. I love all the Mora's :)
There are a couple of things here that are simply wrong.. The knife is not a zero grind.. It has a micro bevel.. If sharpening on a whetstone then it will remove that micro bevel and you will have a zero grind (probably a slight convexing as well). The performance with a zero grind will increase noticeably.. The carbon steel version will not need to be sharpened more frequently than the 14c28n Sandvik, it will hold an edge longer than the SS version, it's easier to sharpen and will actually take a sharper edge, it's also tougher. 14c28n especially when heat treated by Mora is a very good steel but if you are prepared to look after your knife and dry it after use then in every regard the carbon version will trump the SS version. As far as I know the carbon steel used by Mora is Uddeholm UHB 20C heat treated to 59-61..
@Gray Au Micro bevel= longer lasting sharpness.. ? What is your point? Did I say anything to suggest that a micro bevel was bad or that it doesn't help with longer lasting sharpness? You then go on to say a micro bevel is harder to sharpen?? What on earth are you on about. It's a micro bevel, you would sharpen the knife to what ever grind / angle you need and then apply the micro bevel freehand after using a ceramic rod, it's about the easiest part of it. Are you trying to say a larger"V" grind is harder to sharpen freehand and without convexing it than a zero grind? If you want to be particular about it then on a scandi grind I don't like a secondary bevel or micro bevel as it defeats the purpose, it's like putting off road tyres on a formula one car, Mora don't put it on on purpose either, it's the result of being machine sharpened. (This is common and not a problem as it can be removed easily or kept if you desire, some people like them and I understand why). If you want the edge stability that the secondary bevel gives then conxex it making it a scandivex and you have the lasting sharpness without loosing the performance of a zero grind. When you say it's impossible to have a knife sharpen easier and maintain an edge longer it's one or the other, well in a perfect world with clinical conditions yes this is correct (thank you for the lesson in basic physics and reality) but being out in the woods subjecting a blade to different stresses is hardly a laboratory with exact measurements and conditions. You don't think that grain structure plays a part, or how the molecules that give that hardness are held together and bind, or how they will react to slicing rope and meat or chopping wood or how these different energies stress different metals in different ways? You are saying the ONLY component is the hardness. So with that logic 8CR and REX45 both hardened to 60HRC will take exactly the same amount of time to sharpen and will both hold an edge the exact same? Oh and incidentally on just about every test where they test the Garberg in carbon against the stainless the carbon holds an edge about 30% longer and it will sharpen easier. Why do you think axes are made of carbon steel along with lawn mower blades, ploughs etc when you can harden cheap stainless to the same hardness and then not have to worry about maintenance? Why don't you get hold of Dave Canterbury and explain to him he needs to swap his carbon Garberg for a stainless one as the stainless will hold an edge longer even though it will also take a little longer to sharpen, I am sure he would like to know as it will save him having to worry about rust as seemingly the only component that matters is HRC. No I don't have a dislike for stainless blades and one of my favourite bush craft knives is in 14C28N which I like very much. Oh and "sigh"
@Gray Au In order to back up my claim that carbon would hold an edge longer than ANY other steel I would first have to make the claim which clearly I haven't. What I said was that Moras carbon steel will hold an edge better than their 14C28N. Also I did not say a micro bevel was bad, I did however say that you loose the performance of a zero grind. The primary use of a bushcraft knife is cutting and shaping wood, if you want to hard use the knife then a micro bevel will serve to protect the cutting edge from damaging beyond the micro bevel so it can serve a purpose and it's very quick and easy to put on a micro bevel, however convexing the edge will also strengthen the edge without loosing the performance of finer carving and shaping wood. Why don't you actually read what I write rather than trying to set up a straw man argument in order to validate your position. It's funny that you accuse me of "borderline aggressive-defensive commenting" while you revert to personal insults. I also have no doubt you can feel the mental trauma and I hope you get some really super upscale psychiatric treatment at an unreasonably low price... You deserve it..
@Gray Au Hmmm... when you consistently misinterpret what someone is saying it doesn't necessarily mean they are using semantics, there can be other factors that I suspect are present here.. Either you are showing signs of being a bit thick, or maybe it's just an ever present component of your personality that you are an irritating twit that struggles with life when someone has a different opinion than you.... the classic manifestation of narcissism... The first word of your first post was "sigh"... I think that was a pretty good indicator that you were more than likely an obnoxious self appointed guru of all things and can't stand it when some awful, awful man has a different view than you... " spewing bullshit semantics this and that, you're useless" booohooo, mmmwwwaaa... Try and eat some fruit, go for a walk or maybe do some exercise, play with a ball or something.
I wish I would have watched this before, I listened to someone else and upgraded to the leather sheath, I wish I would not have! Another great video Aaron, thank you!
It just occurred to me that in extended survival situations, the stainless may be better. I certainly wouldn’t want my blade to rust, and I don’t go into the woods with oil. I do have a small sharpening stone in my pack, though, to touch up blades that need it. I’ve always bought high-carbon, but I may change my ways! At the very least, I think it justifies another knife purchase...
Agreed I used to like carbon steel but, it rusts easily in a extended survival situation or a survival situation in general it could rain snow or if your in Texas like me it is very humid, one time I had the mora hd companion as my first knife when I first started getting into knives and survival stuff, I was making a few tent stakes and feather sticks when I was done i made sure the knife was clean and not wet in any way, I put it in the sheath and left to go get something to eat about 45min later I take it out the sheath and there was rust all over the knife.
I have a Mora companion I bought brand new, used it maybe 5 or so times around the campsite over the fall, and it had rust within weeks of purchase. It's still useable of course, no lasting damage. But still, way too sensitive for a survival knife.
@@DrewsReviews07any 90⁰ spine will strike a ferro rod. I strike ferro rods with sharp rocks. The carbon content of the knife has nothing to do with using a ferro rod.
Going to get one sooner or later. But for here in NC it will be S.Steel. Rains alot in the mountains here. Now got to go mess around with what my daughter got me for Father's Day. SP 10 Bowie knife. Love it!
Stainless Steel that's one I have as I live in Wales UK one of the wettest places in Britain. The Mora Garberg is incredible as I like to be outdoors as often as possible and I have battoned with my Garberg to prepare firewood for my hot tent stove and it works like a horse my sheaf has a sharpening stone on the side of it so keeping the edge sharp for any upcoming camp tasks is a breeze.
I got the stainless one .i live in a high humid area southern ill.. The sanvick steel is very fine stuff .but carbon steel is ok .old timers would take the carbon steel.great blades.i would trust my life to eather of them.long live Mora knives.
They may not be made for the harder tasks, but can they handle the harder tasks? I don't mean indefinitely but in a true emergency situation. And excellent review btw! Straight to point and no bush beating or bs.
I appreciate the like but what I asked was a legitimate question. Are they good for true survival circumstances? To make it shorter. Like if you were in the show lost but you were the only surviving passenger. Would that be a good knife to have until rescue?
I always wanted Mora carbon steal but when I got it, I found it was high maintenance, I forced a patina with mustard and hot vinegar and leave it as a back up with my other oddball moras, forgot about the sparks though. Looking at space force and san mai right now, should probably go sanmai before they’re gone
I have the stainless and I love it never thought I’d bother with the carbon but the more I think about it the more I probably will get the carbon version great blade.
Since the carbon Garberg came out, I've bought 2 SS garbergs "used"(but new never used) $50 range, and they are great bargains to me. SHocked I was at how sturdy they are!!! I like the blade and the handle. It feels twice the knife vs the bushcraft Black(I'd sell mine used, but never used, $30, lol. Garberg SS feels 4x the knife as a companion HD carbon, and at least twice as much knife as a Bushlore(and I like the bushlore). Don't now why, but the bushcraft Black never did it for me at the $40 new price. I don't think I'd pay any more than $60 for a garberg, only because I'm cheap, and you get into the $120USD range, you can score an LT Wright or Bravo1 for that. When camping or out dirt biking(and am back to camp) I put on a Garberg in a self made kydex sheath with a leather belt loop. I carry my spare in a backpack or gear bag in case one gets dull or dirty(Kids, lol) They sharpen easy, then I stropp on a small micro bevel. I was cutting cardboard, card board was resting on concrete, I would stop blade 4 feet from the concrete, then raise and finish the cut. Ya, I messed up and bounced the blade on the concrete, rolling the curved part of the blade, but no chipping, a 1000 grit shapton stone fixed me up in 3 minutes, love it! The kids are always asking if they can sharpen the garbergs, weird, they usually just burn through gasoline on the bikes. They are getting better, and then they cut any and all paper and cordage they can find. We use small gasification stoves, garberg SS is going to replace all the knifes in these kits(light battoning), the cheaper mora's and a bushlore are getting bounced. If I'm hunting or fishing in Alaska, I'm wearing more knife, a GNS usually in 3v. My last 2 A2 Genesis knifes came cheap(Kind of) $130 each new(I'd sell them too for the same $$), look on the fourms and score a cheap GREAT knife!!!!!!! I do want a Garberg carbon, but will wait until I can score one in the $50 range, they are to new now, and in vouge. Can't wait to see lots(BIG test) of cut tests of carbon vs SS, I'll wager the carbon blade is a good one cleaning fish with a SS blade is nice though(usually use SS companion, $10 goodness) I'll not buy a cheaper Mora ever again, Garberg spoiled me(I've even field dressed a big bull elk with a compainion HD) THANKS FOR SHOWING THEM BOTH IN THIS VIDEO!!
I was under the impression that a stainless knife would make sparks on a "firesteel" because it is a combination of flint and steel together in a rod. Stainless steel will not spark natural flint. Please correct me if I am wrong. I have seen a stainless Garberg throw sparks from a firesteel.
Nice knife but I don't see it replacing my Mora Bushcraft Black... I thought the BCB was a bit pricey at $40! I don't see why the Garberg is that much more, for just a little more steel on the end and combo sheath... I would pay maybe $15 dollars more for that... Not $40-$50 more... And I have done some light batoning with my BCB and it has done just fine...
Good video and analysis. I have Kabars and I like 1095 for it’s versatility and it is easier to sharpen.. I am waiting on my Garberg carbon steel to arrive.. I chose the survival sheath with the ferro rod and sharpener. Always thought that was a good field combination. Thanks for your help.
I use mine when I'm going light; plenty robust processing wood for a twig stove. My nod is toward the Carbon Black, although my fish filet knives I prefer stainless. Thanks for another informative video.
I enjoy your videos. You seem like a genuine and cool dude. I think I’ll pick one of these up. I have a Condor Bushlore and I really dislike that knife.
I've got them both and for me the stainless is just as good if not better. I love carbon but having the carbon made me want to make "flint and steel" type fires and ruin my spine... I don't have to worry about that with the stainless. Lol Also the coating is cool but I don't necessarily like it
one feature of carbon steel was not mentioned: accidental hit on stone with edge will "bend" point of impact thus repair will be eaier - stainless edges will chip
Hi Aron i got the Gerber made in Portland, OR , and made that choice when you made the video on the 3 top knives so i got the Gerber and i dont regret it, i like your reviews i know they are honest
Aaron I love the objectivity of your reviews and I'm a very happy original Garberg user. Mine sits in a double P90 pouch with my folding saw on my work/get home bag and is used almost daily. The only criticism of the Garberg when it came out that was that there was no carbon steel option, this seemed to be mainly from the States who have a deep mistrust of stainless steel. I'm happy this has now been remedied but the Mora stainless is such high quality that it is in my opinion the only option for a small edc fixed blade. Great work mate, keep on keeping on.
Every badass survival area is usually in pretty wet areas. For that I'd go with the stainless. Just wish they sold a coated stainless for the cool factor of the black alone, lol
Hey Arron did you happen to notice if the grind taper is thinner on the carbon esp on the upsweep of the belly? I've noticed when manufacturers make the same knife in stainless or carbon that sometimes the grind thickness is different. I know many reviewers that reviewed the Strongarm BDZ1 didn't notice that the saber grind was thinner esp on the belly to tip. I used the 420 hc strongarm a ton so when I got the BDZ1 it instantly felt different esp the belly sweep, the BDZ1 push cuts way better and pops out notches with a good clean cut. I carve a lot with my knives so I notice these small differences that some folks don't....Anyways brother great review and I was very surprised that you picked the 14C28N you're spot on man😉
Bought a carbon steel, used it two times for batoning some medium softness wood, didn't abuse it, didn't hit rocks with it, didn't chop anything, and I can already see a couple of micro chips on the edge, confirmed with my handheld microscope. Not sure what to make of it, would stainless be more durable for batoning?
I'm thinking about grabbing one.of these for my daily hiker, I don't want to worry about rust since I do hike through water sometimes. How does the Sandvik as far as throwing sparks off of a rod?
I chose the carbon steel one because Carbon steel had always been used in knives. I actually got the knife and leather sheeth brand new for under 25$. The knife was so sharp that it had cut trough the sheeth, it was easily fixed with leather glue. Then my blades spine towards the tip is not symetric, nothing that affects the knife at all.
I’m always going to go for HC over SS. Not that SS isn’t awesome, and a great choice. I just want a camp/field knife that can shaped up with a simple rasp.
I believe the full and exposed tang is an answer to a request from the bushcraft community; psychologically in the sense that "if it's full tang it's strong enough to baton with". I would go with the more practical application of the exposed tang; it can be used to hammer upon something (while in the sheath for safety reasons), that being to crack nuts or soften roots, but also the wood scraper tool option (I don't know the real name for it) used to smooth out the shallow side of a carved spoon or bowl.
Stainless is usually softer than carbon steel and dull faster in normal use, however in high moisture environment carbon will oxidize rather quickly in storage and lose its edge. Free chromium (not chromium carbide) in the steel matrix is what gives steel stain resistance but the down side, it's soft.
I think a better comparison might be the Kansbol as it has the same steel (the same as their $10 stainless knives). The Garberg has better steel. Or do all three!😁
The manufacturing overhead especially labour costs in Scandinavian countries are much higher than that in the US let alone China. A superior quality with the price this low, how much is Mora earning on their knives? 5 bucks each??
In Europe a Mora COMPANION HD costs 16€, and a Garberg 68€. Anyone see a problem here? They charge the difference for the rest of the tang? I know the sheath is different and all, but they could put a full exposed tang on HD as well.
Based on All of the reviews of these knives I have seen, I still dont know why I haven't bought one yet, instead I spent 220 bucks on a Steel Will gecko with leather sheath, amazing blade but tuff to sharpen.
I have the stainless version and have been using it for sometime. The only problem I have with it is that the spine edges and pommel are too sharp. Cut my palm several times. I think just an inch of the sharp patch on the spine would have been sufficient for fire-starting. Of course I have the option of filing the sharp edges. I was wondering if the carbon version also has the same issue.
hey i love ur videos BUT...when you list prices for ur knives you always list them 10 to 20 BUCKS cheaper then they actually are. the mora on amazon is 101$ and ive seen it for 99.99 other places. but for every knife you review you dont give accurate prices. every single knife you do costs much more then you say. so listing them like i said im just curious as to why??
I really am doubting between this one or the Steel Will Druid 205. The sheath on the Garberg seems better for me butt the 205 seems like a better handle.
My first Mora was the Garberg, 2nd Eldris, 3rd Woodcarving Basic, tied all three together as a wood working kit. 71, retired carpenter/wood worker 30+ years.
Not a survival knife? Are you kidding me. Dave Canterbury, Lilly, and top published Swedish survivalist say that this is one of the best survival knives on the market. Please note that the geometry of the tip is epic due to the fact it has a very minimal chamfer. Allowing the knife to be very strong at the tip. Other knives have long chamfers that ride up on the spine which makes the knife very weak. THIS IS MY GO-TO SURVIVAL KNIFE.
@David Munir I'm liking the carbon version. It doesn't have a paint job like the other Walmarts cheap ass knives. It's actually blued, impregnated bluing. I can't find a single flaw on this knife. And it is sharp as a scalpel.
The overbuilt foundation compared to other Moras is what appeals to me. I also like the taller blade profile and the slightly more pronounced belly.
Your comment is an appeal to authority. Also proves anyone can be a "Dr".
@@LubberKing Lol. Are you a doc? Did you serve two tours in United States army? I didn't think so.
@@dr.stevenpennym.d.3241 good comeback Lol
Just got my second Mora Garberg in carbon steel. I cannot find one imperfection on this knife. I like how this knife is not painted, it is blued. Well guys and gals, I'm hooked on Mora.
There all great knifes. Have almost all there stainless steel options (humid climate that 1095 doesn't work in Florida well rusts if you don't oil it after every use)
I love my esee 4 stainless steel its my most favorite knife its just perfect…. I just ordered a a mora garberg stainless steel too.
You nailed it 100% with the Ferrari comparison.
Thank you for an excellent video, I was led to feel bad about having a rat tail knife, you pretty much answered every question I had about knives. I carry a hatchet and a bow saw anyway since I live in Scandinavia.
Great choice for a review . Didn't know they made the Garberg in carbon ; that's a bit of a game changer . Thanks , Aaron , for this fair and objective review of these Moras . Love the versatility and functionality of their modular sheath options . ATB
Great video.
I have found that stainless steel and a flint also gets a spark just as well.
Great video, really enjoyed the comparisons and the very honest opinion. I have both carbon and stainless and absolutely love them both, both are tough as granite and have served me well camping in all seasons. I bought the stainless one when it first hit the stores in England, and bought the carbon a year later, there's not much difference tbh, it's as u say, what u prefer. I must disagree tho with one thing u said, about the stainless holding an edge longer than carbon, I've found the carbon holds an edge longer, not by a great deal but it does, and is faster to sharpen.
I now use my stainless for fishing or diving, and my carbon for camping and I highly recommend both and for all to watch this video. Thank u
I think both models have the same hrc. The stainless 14c28n has about 0.62 carbon content and the carbon version c100 (1095) has about 0.95 carbon content. Thats why the carbon version holds an edge a bit longer then the stainless. If they have used lets say 440c , the s.v. would holde an edge for longer.
Also an important aspect that many miss out is that the carbon steel in general is much tougher or better say "springy-er" then a stainless.
Over all, in reality for normal knife use you wont feel a diffrence between the two. Both are great choices. Enjoy them !
I've had a Mora carbon HD companion rust on me while just sitting in the drawer. I cleaned it up but still. I'd have purchased the SS version if it had been available. So when this came on the market it was an even better version of that and I grabbed on in SS. I think we forget how much Stainless Steel is a wonder material. Elon is building his new Mars rocket out of it. And his pickup truck. The St. Louis Arch is built out of SS and has never rusted or needed any attention other than cleaning pollution off of it. Car chassis's would have been built almost entirely out of it decades ago had it been affordable. Now it is but sealing carbon steel has gotten much better so cars actually do last 10+ years now.
We forget that not all that long ago it would have been unheard of to keep a car past 50k miles. It just didn't happen that much. You had a relationship with your car dealer because the turn-over was so much higher. People in the 1940s through the 1970s only kept cars for a few years.
So Im a huge fan of Stainless. It gets too much hate in the knife community.
@@RJT80 I'm fully with you, the old ways were so much better. As for the knife, if you like the stainless steel better then great! It's amazing. I probably prefer the carbon version because of the maintenance, I have Zippos, pipes, cigars and just love the fact I have to work at them to keep them going. So for my carbon knife I always rap just a little vaseline on it after sharpening. Seems to do the trick.
The sheath system really sells that knife... love that functionality.
I have the black carbon for 5 years. I live in NY with humidity being average. I have 4 very small circles of rust that don’t effect the knife. I’m still very happy with it.
I got my Mora Garberg yesterday in carbon steel, with the leather sheath and a Casström No.3 dangler.
What a beautiful and functional set.
The blade ripps threw hard wood like a beast and the handle sits very tight and comfortable in the hand. I put on a pinky lanyard so if hands get wet slipping onto the blade is almost impossible.
I'm normally only in love with combat/utility knives.. But in this case this knife is somehow an exception.
The scandy grind is a beast in cutting a chicken in pieces for dinner. The bones get cut in half like butter.
The dangler gives the ability to wear the knife all day long with and without a heavy backpack. Even when sleeping it does not bother.
Take a Fällkniven CC4 sharpening stone with you, some olive oil both for cooking and blade maintenance and this knife is a non nonsense option.
I love my Steel Will dark angle 900.. and my Esee cm6/6..
But this little beast has a lot of potential and charm.
Greetings from Germany
Gabriel Dave Gawor gerne
@@mensch.meier.8816 ...gerne was?
Ich hatte gerne 1ne Million ..
Das hätte ich gerne:)
Pinky lanyard for the win.
I went with the stainless because it's kinda unique for a knife and I think it's the only mora that uses that type of stainless and it's one less carbon blade I need to maintain and keep an eye on. I wanted a tough wood craft type knife that I didn't need to worry about corrosion as much
I got a Stainless Garberg. , and 25 other Moras, Kansbol For Most Folks is PLENTY of Knife. . A++ Video , keep up the good work.
Dear Gideon’s Tactical: thanks for this review. I was looking for a full tang knife to carry on a six month hike of the CDT. I appreciate this review and it helped me in my choice (Garberg, stainless). More than many hikers will carry. However I won’t be having to borrow a knife like I’ve seen many do. Should meet any need or requirement I have on the trail. Thanks again.
No problem!
I'm totally fine with a 85€ Mora... The Quality on all of them is awesome! So why not charge 85€ for such a great knife! In comparison to other knives it's a very good deal. I love all the Mora's :)
There are a couple of things here that are simply wrong..
The knife is not a zero grind.. It has a micro bevel.. If sharpening on a whetstone then it will remove that micro bevel and you will have a zero grind (probably a slight convexing as well). The performance with a zero grind will increase noticeably..
The carbon steel version will not need to be sharpened more frequently than the 14c28n Sandvik, it will hold an edge longer than the SS version, it's easier to sharpen and will actually take a sharper edge, it's also tougher. 14c28n especially when heat treated by Mora is a very good steel but if you are prepared to look after your knife and dry it after use then in every regard the carbon version will trump the SS version.
As far as I know the carbon steel used by Mora is Uddeholm UHB 20C heat treated to 59-61..
@Gray Au Micro bevel= longer lasting sharpness.. ? What is your point? Did I say anything to suggest that a micro bevel was bad or that it doesn't help with longer lasting sharpness?
You then go on to say a micro bevel is harder to sharpen?? What on earth are you on about. It's a micro bevel, you would sharpen the knife to what ever grind / angle you need and then apply the micro bevel freehand after using a ceramic rod, it's about the easiest part of it. Are you trying to say a larger"V" grind is harder to sharpen freehand and without convexing it than a zero grind?
If you want to be particular about it then on a scandi grind I don't like a secondary bevel or micro bevel as it defeats the purpose, it's like putting off road tyres on a formula one car, Mora don't put it on on purpose either, it's the result of being machine sharpened. (This is common and not a problem as it can be removed easily or kept if you desire, some people like them and I understand why).
If you want the edge stability that the secondary bevel gives then conxex it making it a scandivex and you have the lasting sharpness without loosing the performance of a zero grind.
When you say it's impossible to have a knife sharpen easier and maintain an edge longer it's one or the other, well in a perfect world with clinical conditions yes this is correct (thank you for the lesson in basic physics and reality) but being out in the woods subjecting a blade to different stresses is hardly a laboratory with exact measurements and conditions. You don't think that grain structure plays a part, or how the molecules that give that hardness are held together and bind, or how they will react to slicing rope and meat or chopping wood or how these different energies stress different metals in different ways? You are saying the ONLY component is the hardness. So with that logic 8CR and REX45 both hardened to 60HRC will take exactly the same amount of time to sharpen and will both hold an edge the exact same?
Oh and incidentally on just about every test where they test the Garberg in carbon against the stainless the carbon holds an edge about 30% longer and it will sharpen easier.
Why do you think axes are made of carbon steel along with lawn mower blades, ploughs etc when you can harden cheap stainless to the same hardness and then not have to worry about maintenance?
Why don't you get hold of Dave Canterbury and explain to him he needs to swap his carbon Garberg for a stainless one as the stainless will hold an edge longer even though it will also take a little longer to sharpen, I am sure he would like to know as it will save him having to worry about rust as seemingly the only component that matters is HRC.
No I don't have a dislike for stainless blades and one of my favourite bush craft knives is in 14C28N which I like very much.
Oh and "sigh"
@Gray Au In order to back up my claim that carbon would hold an edge longer than ANY other steel I would first have to make the claim which clearly I haven't. What I said was that Moras carbon steel will hold an edge better than their 14C28N.
Also I did not say a micro bevel was bad, I did however say that you loose the performance of a zero grind. The primary use of a bushcraft knife is cutting and shaping wood, if you want to hard use the knife then a micro bevel will serve to protect the cutting edge from damaging beyond the micro bevel so it can serve a purpose and it's very quick and easy to put on a micro bevel, however convexing the edge will also strengthen the edge without loosing the performance of finer carving and shaping wood.
Why don't you actually read what I write rather than trying to set up a straw man argument in order to validate your position.
It's funny that you accuse me of "borderline aggressive-defensive commenting" while you revert to personal insults. I also have no doubt you can feel the mental trauma and I hope you get some really super upscale psychiatric treatment at an unreasonably low price... You deserve it..
@Gray Au Hmmm... when you consistently misinterpret what someone is saying it doesn't necessarily mean they are using semantics, there can be other factors that I suspect are present here.. Either you are showing signs of being a bit thick, or maybe it's just an ever present component of your personality that you are an irritating twit that struggles with life when someone has a different opinion than you.... the classic manifestation of narcissism...
The first word of your first post was "sigh"... I think that was a pretty good indicator that you were more than likely an obnoxious self appointed guru of all things and can't stand it when some awful, awful man has a different view than you... " spewing bullshit semantics this and that, you're useless" booohooo, mmmwwwaaa...
Try and eat some fruit, go for a walk or maybe do some exercise, play with a ball or something.
I wish I would have watched this before, I listened to someone else and upgraded to the leather sheath, I wish I would not have! Another great video Aaron, thank you!
You don’t like the leather ?
Brian Cox I don’t mind it at all, but it doesn’t have the versatility of the other case.
It just occurred to me that in extended survival situations, the stainless may be better. I certainly wouldn’t want my blade to rust, and I don’t go into the woods with oil. I do have a small sharpening stone in my pack, though, to touch up blades that need it.
I’ve always bought high-carbon, but I may change my ways! At the very least, I think it justifies another knife purchase...
Agreed I used to like carbon steel but, it rusts easily in a extended survival situation or a survival situation in general it could rain snow or if your in Texas like me it is very humid, one time I had the mora hd companion as my first knife when I first started getting into knives and survival stuff, I was making a few tent stakes and feather sticks when I was done i made sure the knife was clean and not wet in any way, I put it in the sheath and left to go get something to eat about 45min later I take it out the sheath and there was rust all over the knife.
I have a Mora companion I bought brand new, used it maybe 5 or so times around the campsite over the fall, and it had rust within weeks of purchase. It's still useable of course, no lasting damage. But still, way too sensitive for a survival knife.
Will the stainless effectively strike fero rod?
@@DrewsReviews07any 90⁰ spine will strike a ferro rod. I strike ferro rods with sharp rocks. The carbon content of the knife has nothing to do with using a ferro rod.
Going to get one sooner or later. But for here in NC it will be S.Steel. Rains alot in the mountains here. Now got to go mess around with what my daughter got me for Father's Day. SP 10 Bowie knife. Love it!
Stainless Steel that's one I have as I live in Wales UK one of the wettest places in Britain. The Mora Garberg is incredible as I like to be outdoors as often as possible and I have battoned with my Garberg to prepare firewood for my hot tent stove and it works like a horse my sheaf has a sharpening stone on the side of it so keeping the edge sharp for any upcoming camp tasks is a breeze.
I got the stainless one .i live in a high humid area southern ill.. The sanvick steel is very fine stuff .but carbon steel is ok .old timers would take the carbon steel.great blades.i would trust my life to eather of them.long live Mora knives.
I got myself the classic no2 carbon, I love that knife but a humid Michigan summer kills carbon steel.
Thank you for the look and the contrast. I would lean towards the carbon myself.
They may not be made for the harder tasks, but can they handle the harder tasks? I don't mean indefinitely but in a true emergency situation.
And excellent review btw! Straight to point and no bush beating or bs.
I appreciate the like but what I asked was a legitimate question. Are they good for true survival circumstances? To make it shorter.
Like if you were in the show lost but you were the only surviving passenger. Would that be a good knife to have until rescue?
I always wanted Mora carbon steal but when I got it, I found it was high maintenance, I forced a patina with mustard and hot vinegar and leave it as a back up with my other oddball moras, forgot about the sparks though. Looking at space force and san mai right now, should probably go sanmai before they’re gone
I have the stainless and I love it never thought I’d bother with the carbon but the more I think about it the more I probably will get the carbon version great blade.
Since the carbon Garberg came out, I've bought 2 SS garbergs "used"(but new never used) $50 range, and they are great bargains to me. SHocked I was at how sturdy they are!!! I like the blade and the handle. It feels twice the knife vs the bushcraft Black(I'd sell mine used, but never used, $30, lol. Garberg SS feels 4x the knife as a companion HD carbon, and at least twice as much knife as a Bushlore(and I like the bushlore). Don't now why, but the bushcraft Black never did it for me at the $40 new price. I don't think I'd pay any more than $60 for a garberg, only because I'm cheap, and you get into the $120USD range, you can score an LT Wright or Bravo1 for that.
When camping or out dirt biking(and am back to camp) I put on a Garberg in a self made kydex sheath with a leather belt loop. I carry my spare in a backpack or gear bag in case one gets dull or dirty(Kids, lol) They sharpen easy, then I stropp on a small micro bevel. I was cutting cardboard, card board was resting on concrete, I would stop blade 4 feet from the concrete, then raise and finish the cut. Ya, I messed up and bounced the blade on the concrete, rolling the curved part of the blade, but no chipping, a 1000 grit shapton stone fixed me up in 3 minutes, love it!
The kids are always asking if they can sharpen the garbergs, weird, they usually just burn through gasoline on the bikes. They are getting better, and then they cut any and all paper and cordage they can find.
We use small gasification stoves, garberg SS is going to replace all the knifes in these kits(light battoning), the cheaper mora's and a bushlore are getting bounced.
If I'm hunting or fishing in Alaska, I'm wearing more knife, a GNS usually in 3v. My last 2 A2 Genesis knifes came cheap(Kind of) $130 each new(I'd sell them too for the same $$), look on the fourms and score a cheap GREAT knife!!!!!!!
I do want a Garberg carbon, but will wait until I can score one in the $50 range, they are to new now, and in vouge.
Can't wait to see lots(BIG test) of cut tests of carbon vs SS, I'll wager the carbon blade is a good one cleaning fish with a SS blade is nice though(usually use SS companion, $10 goodness) I'll not buy a cheaper Mora ever again, Garberg spoiled me(I've even field dressed a big bull elk with a compainion HD)
THANKS FOR SHOWING THEM BOTH IN THIS VIDEO!!
I was under the impression that a stainless knife would make sparks on a "firesteel" because it is a combination of flint and steel together in a rod. Stainless steel will not spark natural flint. Please correct me if I am wrong. I have seen a stainless Garberg throw sparks from a firesteel.
“Slim to none, if never.” …is now my new favorite phrase.
Thanks for the review, an interesting topic I was kinda wondering about.
Thanks for watching!
The esee rational is spot on
Nice knife but I don't see it replacing my Mora Bushcraft Black... I thought the BCB was a bit pricey at $40! I don't see why the Garberg is that much more, for just a little more steel on the end and combo sheath... I would pay maybe $15 dollars more for that... Not $40-$50 more... And I have done some light batoning with my BCB and it has done just fine...
well done, appreciate your thorough and objective approach
Good video and analysis. I have Kabars and I like 1095 for it’s versatility and it is easier to sharpen.. I am waiting on my Garberg carbon steel to arrive.. I chose the survival sheath with the ferro rod and sharpener. Always thought that was a good field combination. Thanks for your help.
Been looking forward to this video for a while now!
I use mine when I'm going light; plenty robust processing wood for a twig stove. My nod is toward the Carbon Black, although my fish filet knives I prefer stainless. Thanks for another informative video.
I enjoy your videos. You seem like a genuine and cool dude. I think I’ll pick one of these up. I have a Condor Bushlore and I really dislike that knife.
I've got them both and for me the stainless is just as good if not better.
I love carbon but having the carbon made me want to make "flint and steel" type fires and ruin my spine... I don't have to worry about that with the stainless. Lol Also the coating is cool but I don't necessarily like it
Great review and have being wondering since their release. This is my next purchase investment. Thank you!
Love the comparisons and keeping it real and practical.
The stainless version is tougher, more edge retentive, still easy to sharpen and highly stainless. 14c28n is superior to 1095 in every way.
one feature of carbon steel was not mentioned: accidental hit on stone with edge will "bend" point of impact thus repair will be eaier - stainless edges will chip
Hi Aron i got the Gerber made in Portland, OR ,
and made that choice when you made the video on the 3 top knives so i got the Gerber and i dont regret it, i like your reviews i know they are honest
leave the micro bevel or make it full scandi ? advise please
Good comparison. Thank you for doing it.
Aaron I love the objectivity of your reviews and I'm a very happy original Garberg user. Mine sits in a double P90 pouch with my folding saw on my work/get home bag and is used almost daily. The only criticism of the Garberg when it came out that was that there was no carbon steel option, this seemed to be mainly from the States who have a deep mistrust of stainless steel. I'm happy this has now been remedied but the Mora stainless is such high quality that it is in my opinion the only option for a small edc fixed blade. Great work mate, keep on keeping on.
Love these videos! I’m hooked.
Welcome to the GT family.
mora garberg carbon vs 202 leuku cpm-3v wich wins and why?
Every badass survival area is usually in pretty wet areas.
For that I'd go with the stainless. Just wish they sold a coated stainless for the cool factor of the black alone, lol
Maybe the full tang isn’t a huge deal, but the part sticking out is very useful if its left sharp and not hit with hard stuff.
Garberg stainless vs garberg carbon vs srk 3v. what's your pick? great lakes area.
Stainless Garberg for sure
Hey Arron did you happen to notice if the grind taper is thinner on the carbon esp on the upsweep of the belly?
I've noticed when manufacturers make the same knife in stainless or carbon that sometimes the grind thickness is different.
I know many reviewers that reviewed the Strongarm BDZ1 didn't notice that the saber grind was thinner esp on the belly to tip. I used the 420 hc strongarm a ton so when I got the BDZ1 it instantly felt different esp the belly sweep, the BDZ1 push cuts way better and pops out notches with a good clean cut. I carve a lot with my knives so I notice these small differences that some folks don't....Anyways brother great review and I was very surprised that you picked the 14C28N you're spot on man😉
Just ordered the stainless garberg last night, I cannot wait to receive it!
you should have gone for the carbon dude.
Bought a carbon steel, used it two times for batoning some medium softness wood, didn't abuse it, didn't hit rocks with it, didn't chop anything, and I can already see a couple of micro chips on the edge, confirmed with my handheld microscope. Not sure what to make of it, would stainless be more durable for batoning?
If you dont need the full tang in a knife this size why not just buy a bushcraft black at half the price.??
I'm thinking about grabbing one.of these for my daily hiker, I don't want to worry about rust since I do hike through water sometimes. How does the Sandvik as far as throwing sparks off of a rod?
Best knife i got so far, i like mine with a kydex sheath it wast so much extra cost
Been bush crafting for over 56 years have both knives CARBON all the way enough said
I chose the carbon steel one because Carbon steel had always been used in knives. I actually got the knife and leather sheeth brand new for under 25$. The knife was so sharp that it had cut trough the sheeth, it was easily fixed with leather glue. Then my blades spine towards the tip is not symetric, nothing that affects the knife at all.
Thanks for your good movie Both knives performed well and were similar So what is the difference between these two models of knives?
See the ambush squirrel right behind you! >> 8:59 ;)
I spotted that too lol
I’m always going to go for HC over SS. Not that SS isn’t awesome, and a great choice. I just want a camp/field knife that can shaped up with a simple rasp.
You can do the same thing with the SS, just need a diamond file
I choose both. Thanks for the vid! It made up my mind! LOL!
For surf fishing, stainlees or carbon
Stainless
You guys are so lucky over there, with conversion rate from British pounds the Garberg costs at least US$119 in the UK.
Well I just picked a Mora Garberg Carbon up for $110 US dollars, so after the conversation not so lucky.
sharpening is just a time difference and it is only minuites between the two types of steels
makes it a non issue for me
Carbon steel is stronger, harder to break, better suited for survival knife.
I live where it almost always rains and I still went with the carbon.
Same... 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
@David Munir carbon is easier to sharpen
great video !!! thank you
Does it get rusty easily? And does it last long?
Cheers, mate. Solid review, as always.
I believe the full and exposed tang is an answer to a request from the bushcraft community; psychologically in the sense that "if it's full tang it's strong enough to baton with". I would go with the more practical application of the exposed tang; it can be used to hammer upon something (while in the sheath for safety reasons), that being to crack nuts or soften roots, but also the wood scraper tool option (I don't know the real name for it) used to smooth out the shallow side of a carved spoon or bowl.
Stainless is usually softer than carbon steel and dull faster in normal use, however in high moisture environment carbon will oxidize rather quickly in storage and lose its edge. Free chromium (not chromium carbide) in the steel matrix is what gives steel stain resistance but the down side, it's soft.
Great video. Really detailed
The real question is, this or the $15 companion heavy duty. Is it really worth that premium?
I like your approach, I loce SS over coated due to maintenence....
I’d love to see a review and test of the EKA Nordic W12 with G10 handles ... I love watching your reviews
I will look into it. Thanks for watching.
I think a better comparison might be the Kansbol as it has the same steel (the same as their $10 stainless knives). The Garberg has better steel. Or do all three!😁
The manufacturing overhead especially labour costs in Scandinavian countries are much higher than that in the US let alone China. A superior quality with the price this low, how much is Mora earning on their knives? 5 bucks each??
I chose the carbon steel one, because I have never owned one. You got to try everything, right?
In Europe a Mora COMPANION HD costs 16€, and a Garberg 68€. Anyone see a problem here? They charge the difference for the rest of the tang? I know the sheath is different and all, but they could put a full exposed tang on HD as well.
Awesome video!
I like that, "which ever steel you like to work with." Lol. I really like the ss for all the same reasons.
Yes stainless steel will strike a Ferro rod.
It absolutely will. Rolling a burr on each side with a diamond stone or carbide tool sharpener makes it even better.
Based on All of the reviews of these knives I have seen, I still dont know why I haven't bought one yet, instead I spent 220 bucks on a Steel Will gecko with leather sheath, amazing blade but tuff to sharpen.
14c28n has twice the toughness as 1095 and twice the edge retention as 1095 It’s one of the most stainless steel’s you can get
does the stainless steel version in this knife have the 14c28n ?
@@JDDD33 yes
Aspen forest...Ahhhhhhh🌲
You absolutely can get a spark with a stainless steel blade. Ask Paul Kirtley.
Yes, & MANY! others on RUclips.
Could you list a few of the utubes please ?@@chiefsquattingbull7624
I have the stainless version and have been using it for sometime. The only problem I have with it is that the spine edges and pommel are too sharp. Cut my palm several times. I think just an inch of the sharp patch on the spine would have been sufficient for fire-starting. Of course I have the option of filing the sharp edges. I was wondering if the carbon version also has the same issue.
I rounded the spine of my moras for the same reason
You are awesome. And the way you see and review is awesome too. 🔪✨
I would go fore the stainless version because I hate having to worry about it getting rusty
Good video! Thank you
Cheers Mate!
It would be cool if they made the stainless steel option in black
Stainless steel can also make a sparks from fire rod, checked, confirmed.
Sardim33 yes from a fire rod, an sharp angle will. You need a carbon blade to make sparks with flint.
can you do a vs between the garberg and the BK16?
I thought the carbon would hold an edge longer?
spider5001 yes
It does hold an edge longer... He's wrong in this review on that..
hey i love ur videos BUT...when you list prices for ur knives you always list them 10 to 20 BUCKS cheaper then they actually are. the mora on amazon is 101$ and ive seen it for 99.99 other places. but for every knife you review you dont give accurate prices. every single knife you do costs much more then you say. so listing them like i said im just curious as to why??
I am one more subscriber (hence: thank you for GREAT review).
Thanks for the sub! And welcome to the GT Crew!!
Which one would you recommend I live in Jacksonville Florida and it’s really hot here
Stainless steel
The 1095 steel rusts quickly in Florida. But the stainless looks great and never had a problem. Have menu stainless Mora's there great
I really am doubting between this one or the Steel Will Druid 205. The sheath on the Garberg seems better for me butt the 205 seems like a better handle.
I read somewhere that the carbon steel is 62 Rockwell hardness. Do you find this to be true?
Does the black coating come off easy? My bk9 started coming off on my first camping trip