On closer examination of case dimensions… you are correct. 250-3000 (250 Savage) and 22-250 have nearly the exact same case dimensions. Thanks for the correction. It is worth noting though, they all (22-250, 250 savage, & 308 Win) share the exact same case head size of 0.473”. I don’t know enough to know which one came first. Guessing 308 Win was the original, and all these others were wildcated from that?
Sounds like a bolt timing problem … no cam action to extract fired case , hence rubber mallet ! The small interference on bolt nose would not result in need 11:56 of rubber mallet to move bolt rearward ….. this problem is common on rifles with RR serial prefix. There are Gunsmiths offering a bolt handle removal and refitting service.
Had the same problem this preseason, got caught in the rain last season, dried, cleaned and oiled after believed all was good. Turned out I was wrong, the bolt had some mild rust/grim buildup, so after dismantling the bolt completely, soaked everything in white vinegar overnight, wire brushed threads, rinsed, dried oiled and reassembled.....like new.
I had the same thing happen to me on our trapline with a 1970s same rifle when I had a black bear charge me , luckily I was young and fast enough to outrun run it to our cabin that was close by.
@@Jmastffp hey buds Im from BC Canada, a friend and I were working on our trapline when early in the morning the stellar jays were making a noise, I grabbed my 270 rem 700 and went to see what the commotion was about when I noticed a huge sow black bear and her cub approaching me, she smelled me and proceeded to charge, I fired a shot to the side of her, she stopped to investigate and then full charged again I went to load another round but could not open my bolt it was stuck, as aI mentioned I made it to the cabin just in time, she circled the cabin my buddy had a win 94 ready, fortunately she left,
You’re the third or fourth person that’s mentioned this being an issue. Sounds a quality control issue for sure. Hope you’re able to get it fixed. Need to find you a gunsmith with a lathe
Excellent point And demonstration. Something I'm going to try on my .308 bolt. Question can this also happen when there may be too much pressure in a load and the bolt sticks and you have to use a rubber mallate to back out. Because the case has expanded a little to much??
That is a possibility. I’d encourage you to check your brass. There will probably be other signs. Loss of accuracy, bulging of the primer, maybe even fractures in the case.
You guys weren't paying attention that gun was sticking with new brass just trying to cycle the bolt it was having problems with out even firing amateurs..
@@Lucysdad66 With all do respect the title reads "Customer would fire the weapon and would not be able to open the bolt afterwards". I have ran into this problem, one with pressure near the base of the case. They call them "Clickers" , and at times the bolt has been stuck as well. I also found out later, that some late model 700's have a poor cam over on the angle of the action where the bolt snaps open, This area on the action was designed poorly and would not assist the bolt in the cam over process. In Josh's example he uses an unfired cartridge and it shows a similar issue but caused by a different problem. No need to get excited we are all just trying to learn something.
I have a newer Remington 700, long range, in 7mm mag that does this. After firing a shot the bolt will not open. If I wait 10/15 seconds the bolt will open but it’s still very stiff.
That’s very interesting. I wonder if there’s some heat expansion that’s making it stick. I’d rub some lapping paste on your bolt nose, put a spent casing in the chamber, and then open and close the bolt repeatedly for a few minutes. Hopefully that will messauge it into tolerance. Thanks for the comment sir
With a Savage I would say you may need to aggressively clean the chamber. Especially up at chamber throat. You might have some carbon build up in there that’s catching your brass up. It may also be head spaced a little tight. Fortunately, for you savage owners, head space is really easy to adjust compared to a Remington.
Sir that is quite a pickle you have there. If you have the bolt rotated to the open position you may be able to put a rod down the barrel into the fired case and tap the bolt out that way. If the bolt is is not rotated to the open position, and you can’t rotate it, you may need to remove the barrel.
How can the bolt be so sloppy it hits the lip? Did you check the bolt to receiver clearance? And a 22-250 rem 700 is a rifle, not a weapon, nor is a 22-250 based on a 308 case.
Again, based on what I was seeing from testing I have a strop suspicion the bolt nose recess was machined too small. I believe these are typically bored out to around .012”-.015”. It’s also been my experience that most factory rifles like this have “sloppy” bolts. Custom actions are usually a lot tighter on the bolt to bolt raceway fit.
Great video. Never seen that problem before. Where are the plans to fix it? Open the bolt nose recess up a few more thousands? Love your videos, thanks for sharing
I methodically worked the bolt nose down with a small diamond file until I could run a cartridge through it without it binding up. Only had to remove about .003-.005 of thickness. If that didn’t work I was planning to open up the bolt nose recess. I don’t like popping barrels off of actions unless I absolutely have to. Especially on older rifles. This one may need a new bolt if the issue persists. Apparently the bolt has been an issue since the rifle was originally purchased. I got to talk with the original owner about it through another gunsmith I know.
@@bigbore4459 Kinda. I ended up removing material from the bottom (6 o’clock position) of the bolt nose so it would fit the existing bolt recess. I probably should have just separated the barrel and action and opened the bolt nose recess up a few thou. I don’t like popping barrels unless I have to though. Personal preference. Open to debate.
Hey Josh, fire/medic brother here! 👋 I've been thaving this issue with my 700 (7mm rem. Mag.) believe it was manufactured in or around 2013. I've put several hundred rds through it before having this issue about a year or two ago. I usually have had to use a brass cleaning rod to get the round out and the bolt back to extract the round. Ive tried several different rounds through it. Though it was the quality of my reloads but have had the issue with brand new Federal, Winchester and Remington rounds. The only rounds that I haven't really had an issue with were nice Hornady rounds or something of the same quality. That was at least the diagnosis Ive gotten so far. Suggestions?
I might have same issue with my short action made about that same time as yours. i can cycle the bolt fine but go to put in a round and i cant even get the exstractor to pop on to the case. maybe the simular or exstractor issue instead of miss alignment.
What’s up brother! Thanks for the comment. Sounds you and the other guy that replied are experiencing some quality control issues. Remington has gone through several regime changes over the last 15 years, and had quality control issues because of it. Unfortunately the current ownership isn’t honoring any warranties from previous ownership because of all the problems that were inherited from poor quality standards… long story short. I would suggest buying a head space gauge (go and no go set) for the caliber you have and check the head space. Either your chamber isn’t properly cut, or the bolt nose recess is too tight. That’s where I’d start. Beyond that you’ll need to get to a gunsmith to have it diagnosed. I’d be more than happy to look at it for ya if you like.
@@timbjork2098Sounds like you either have a bad extractor, too deep of a chamber, or (again) your bolt nose recess is too tight. There’s a chance that your bolt face (where the cartridge base sits in the bolt) is not machined deep enough as well
You had this issue after putting several hundred rounds through the gun? Have you cleaned the gun? I mean REALLY cleaned the gun? If you get a carbon "ring" at the end of the chamber/beginning of the throat it will increase chamber pressure. Excess chamber pressure will cause your brass to swell excessively and make extraction difficult. It may not be your problem. But it is a simple/cheap thing to check. And if it isn't the problem you can at least check it off the list of variables that might be causing your problem. Carbon rings are notoriously stubborn and difficult to remove... And a standard cleaning regimen may not always remove them. A quick peek with a decent bore scope will confirm/eliminate if it's an issue.
I think what’s happening is Remington was boring the bolt nose recess with too tight of tolerance. Either immediately or after a couple hundred rounds (when thing have worn in a bit) you start getting a lot of contact between the bolt nose and the recess. The best way to fix it is to widen the bolt nose recess a bit, but not everybody has a lathe in their back pocket. The next best option would probably be what I did. I’m really becoming more of a fan of Savage as time goes on 😂
This guy don’t know what he’s talking about! Don’t spread bs when you don’t know what the parent case even is. That’s how you get your channel blocked from my feed! By by.
I'm pretty sure that the parent case of the 22-250 is a 250-3000... not 308 win. ???
On closer examination of case dimensions… you are correct. 250-3000 (250 Savage) and 22-250 have nearly the exact same case dimensions. Thanks for the correction. It is worth noting though, they all (22-250, 250 savage, & 308 Win) share the exact same case head size of 0.473”. I don’t know enough to know which one came first. Guessing 308 Win was the original, and all these others were wildcated from that?
The .250-3000 is based off of the .300 Savage, which is also the parent case to the .308, so he's not entirely wrong
You are correct
Great, glad you made the video. Happy New Year to you and your family.
Hey fellow Hoosier! It has been a while. Glad to see you still posting content.
Sounds like a bolt timing problem … no cam action to extract fired case , hence rubber mallet !
The small interference on bolt nose would not result in need 11:56 of rubber mallet to move bolt rearward ….. this problem is common on rifles with RR serial prefix.
There are Gunsmiths offering a bolt handle removal and refitting service.
I agree with you at first I thought it was a timing issue, but after watching I think it was an alignment issue all along.
Had the same problem this preseason, got caught in the rain last season, dried, cleaned and oiled after believed all was good. Turned out I was wrong, the bolt had some mild rust/grim buildup, so after dismantling the bolt completely, soaked everything in white vinegar overnight, wire brushed threads, rinsed, dried oiled and reassembled.....like new.
It's a 250-3000 case necked down to .22 not a .308 necked down.
I have 700 win mag. Same problem. Did function a bit better when air temp was 17 deg Fahrenheit during whitetail season.
what is the action torque
I had the same thing happen to me on our trapline with a 1970s same rifle when I had a black bear charge me , luckily I was young and fast enough to outrun run it to our cabin that was close by.
That is totally epic, and I’m gonna need details
@@Jmastffp hey buds Im from BC Canada, a friend and I were working on our trapline when early in the morning the stellar jays were making a noise, I grabbed my 270 rem 700 and went to see what the commotion was about when I noticed a huge sow black bear and her cub approaching me, she smelled me and proceeded to charge, I fired a shot to the side of her, she stopped to investigate and then full charged again I went to load another round but could not open my bolt it was stuck, as aI mentioned I made it to the cabin just in time, she circled the cabin my buddy had a win 94 ready, fortunately she left,
Sounds like the front of the receiver is not tapped square
have a savage axis with the same problem. Love the rifle except for that. seems like ammo has something to do with it too.
I have the same rifle mine is 223 and I'm having trouble with my bolt closing if I have a round in or spent brass. The bolt was recently worked on
You’re the third or fourth person that’s mentioned this being an issue. Sounds a quality control issue for sure. Hope you’re able to get it fixed. Need to find you a gunsmith with a lathe
Excellent point And demonstration. Something I'm going to try on my .308 bolt. Question can this also happen when there may be too much pressure in a load and the bolt sticks and you have to use a rubber mallate to back out. Because the case has expanded a little to much??
That is a possibility. I’d encourage you to check your brass. There will probably be other signs. Loss of accuracy, bulging of the primer, maybe even fractures in the case.
You guys weren't paying attention that gun was sticking with new brass just trying to cycle the bolt it was having problems with out even firing amateurs..
@@Lucysdad66 With all do respect the title reads "Customer would fire the weapon and would not be able to open the bolt afterwards". I have ran into this problem, one with pressure near the base of the case. They call them "Clickers" , and at times the bolt has been stuck as well. I also found out later, that some late model 700's have a poor cam over on the angle of the action where the bolt snaps open, This area on the action was designed poorly and would not assist the bolt in the cam over process. In Josh's example he uses an unfired cartridge and it shows a similar issue but caused by a different problem. No need to get excited we are all just trying to learn something.
I have a newer Remington 700, long range, in 7mm mag that does this. After firing a shot the bolt will not open. If I wait 10/15 seconds the bolt will open but it’s still very stiff.
That’s very interesting. I wonder if there’s some heat expansion that’s making it stick. I’d rub some lapping paste on your bolt nose, put a spent casing in the chamber, and then open and close the bolt repeatedly for a few minutes. Hopefully that will messauge it into tolerance. Thanks for the comment sir
sounds like your way over presure! any time you have to pound bolt open you have presure problems and or very dirty chamber.
I have a similar problem with my savage 300WSM, the bolt is difficult to turn and difficult to extract the cartridge out of the chamber.
With a Savage I would say you may need to aggressively clean the chamber. Especially up at chamber throat. You might have some carbon build up in there that’s catching your brass up. It may also be head spaced a little tight. Fortunately, for you savage owners, head space is really easy to adjust compared to a Remington.
Alright got a Remington 700 fired the round bolt won’t come out and handle broke off how do you get the bolt out with no handle and it’s stuck
Sir that is quite a pickle you have there. If you have the bolt rotated to the open position you may be able to put a rod down the barrel into the fired case and tap the bolt out that way. If the bolt is is not rotated to the open position, and you can’t rotate it, you may need to remove the barrel.
How can the bolt be so sloppy it hits the lip? Did you check the bolt to receiver clearance? And a 22-250 rem 700 is a rifle, not a weapon, nor is a 22-250 based on a 308 case.
Again, based on what I was seeing from testing I have a strop suspicion the bolt nose recess was machined too small. I believe these are typically bored out to around .012”-.015”. It’s also been my experience that most factory rifles like this have “sloppy” bolts. Custom actions are usually a lot tighter on the bolt to bolt raceway fit.
Hey brother great video, would it be possible for a table view of some of these malfunctions
Yes, thanks for the input. I’ll try to work more of those in during future videos
Great video. Never seen that problem before. Where are the plans to fix it? Open the bolt nose recess up a few more thousands? Love your videos, thanks for sharing
I methodically worked the bolt nose down with a small diamond file until I could run a cartridge through it without it binding up. Only had to remove about .003-.005 of thickness. If that didn’t work I was planning to open up the bolt nose recess. I don’t like popping barrels off of actions unless I absolutely have to. Especially on older rifles. This one may need a new bolt if the issue persists. Apparently the bolt has been an issue since the rifle was originally purchased. I got to talk with the original owner about it through another gunsmith I know.
@@MastGunWorks so basically you made a feed ramp for the bolt nose?
@@bigbore4459 Kinda. I ended up removing material from the bottom (6 o’clock position) of the bolt nose so it would fit the existing bolt recess. I probably should have just separated the barrel and action and opened the bolt nose recess up a few thou. I don’t like popping barrels unless I have to though. Personal preference. Open to debate.
Hey Josh, fire/medic brother here! 👋 I've been thaving this issue with my 700 (7mm rem. Mag.) believe it was manufactured in or around 2013. I've put several hundred rds through it before having this issue about a year or two ago. I usually have had to use a brass cleaning rod to get the round out and the bolt back to extract the round. Ive tried several different rounds through it. Though it was the quality of my reloads but have had the issue with brand new Federal, Winchester and Remington rounds. The only rounds that I haven't really had an issue with were nice Hornady rounds or something of the same quality. That was at least the diagnosis Ive gotten so far. Suggestions?
I might have same issue with my short action made about that same time as yours. i can cycle the bolt fine but go to put in a round and i cant even get the exstractor to pop on to the case. maybe the simular or exstractor issue instead of miss alignment.
What’s up brother! Thanks for the comment. Sounds you and the other guy that replied are experiencing some quality control issues. Remington has gone through several regime changes over the last 15 years, and had quality control issues because of it. Unfortunately the current ownership isn’t honoring any warranties from previous ownership because of all the problems that were inherited from poor quality standards… long story short. I would suggest buying a head space gauge (go and no go set) for the caliber you have and check the head space. Either your chamber isn’t properly cut, or the bolt nose recess is too tight. That’s where I’d start. Beyond that you’ll need to get to a gunsmith to have it diagnosed. I’d be more than happy to look at it for ya if you like.
@@timbjork2098Sounds like you either have a bad extractor, too deep of a chamber, or (again) your bolt nose recess is too tight. There’s a chance that your bolt face (where the cartridge base sits in the bolt) is not machined deep enough as well
You had this issue after putting several hundred rounds through the gun?
Have you cleaned the gun? I mean REALLY cleaned the gun? If you get a carbon "ring" at the end of the chamber/beginning of the throat it will increase chamber pressure. Excess chamber pressure will cause your brass to swell excessively and make extraction difficult.
It may not be your problem. But it is a simple/cheap thing to check. And if it isn't the problem you can at least check it off the list of variables that might be causing your problem.
Carbon rings are notoriously stubborn and difficult to remove... And a standard cleaning regimen may not always remove them. A quick peek with a decent bore scope will confirm/eliminate if it's an issue.
Bolt too dry. Always ensure there's a bit of grease on the back of the lugs and in front of the bolt handle (extraction cam)
My 700 has about 130 rounds through it and it just started that.
I think what’s happening is Remington was boring the bolt nose recess with too tight of tolerance. Either immediately or after a couple hundred rounds (when thing have worn in a bit) you start getting a lot of contact between the bolt nose and the recess. The best way to fix it is to widen the bolt nose recess a bit, but not everybody has a lathe in their back pocket. The next best option would probably be what I did. I’m really becoming more of a fan of Savage as time goes on 😂
It’s not a weapon. It’s a firearm
We’ll agree to disagree… it’s all schematics really
Not a .308 case! Get your stuff together - what does the 250 in 22-250 signify? Duh!
Apparently I don’t know. Care to enlighten me? Because I’ve since learned the correct answer, and would be curious to see what you have to say.
This guy don’t know what he’s talking about! Don’t spread bs when you don’t know what the parent case even is. That’s how you get your channel blocked from my feed! By by.