If you found this video helpful, let us know in the comments, or leave a like 👍 This will help give this video a boost and help others discover this tutorial!
Thank you for making this video. I’m not sure if this is what has been causing our mysterious water leak off and on for years, but I’m going to check it out. I’ve replaced the water line to the refrigerator twice already when it was leaking. So it could be that again. It’s definitely something related to the ice maker because when it’s turned off, there’s no water on the floor behind the frig. When I turned the water supply line and ice maker back on, the mysterious water leak returned. I don’t know if turning the temperature up inside the refrigerator can cause water to leak from anywhere or not. I should have been more systematic about things, but I still think it’s had to do with the ice maker because when I turned it off, the water leak stopped too. Senior (real, haha) female here trying to fix a problem the appliance repair man couldn’t. So thank you. I’ll be looking for a video about dishwasher leaks next. They are definitely two distinct leaks.
Samsung ice maker. Only runs the water for about 3 seconds. Plenty of pressure, how does the valve timer it? Can a valve sorta fail? Have not checked tube No water filter Located in the lower drawer Reset was done numerous times and the maker machinery seems to be working correctly
In some models you can adjust the water level for the ice maker: ruclips.net/video/x35UvA9raMw/видео.htmlsi=NHd89iqOuuglwnRD&t=334 Other models might have electronic controls but can't say for sure which have this or not. Also check to make sure there are no blockages in the fill tube. ruclips.net/video/x35UvA9raMw/видео.htmlsi=NPbzxoCshMenERU3&t=50
Seems like I have a faulty valve as I get a reading on the valve prongs but no readings on the wiring harness. It’s a simple wiring harness with only a single connection for each prong.
Thanks for watching. If you're getting readings on the valve but not on the wire harness then the wires or the connection might be faulty. In this case you could try repairing the wires but in a lot of cases it's easiest to install a new valve assembly.
I check mine, which looks similar to the one in your video. I checked it by disconnecting the colored wires for each solinoid and touching the probes to the solinoid contacts. The yellow and the brown came back about 450, while the green was about 220. Is a return of 1 the only indicator that it is bad, or could a higher resistance than the other 2 also indicate it is bad? Thanks for any help.
Thanks for watching. Those readings are within the normal range, it is possible that one valve is not identical to the other. We have a video to troubleshoot the water dispenser, have you checked any of these other things? ruclips.net/video/URX55vrCExA/видео.html
Thanks for watching. Different models will have different wire connectors but generally the wire colors will correspond to a specific valve / solenoid. It's best to trace the wires from the valve you want to check and look at which pins the wires feed into. That will tell you which pins you need to test for that valve. You'll have do this for each valve you want to test.
Thanks for watching. It's like a combined assembly so you'd have to replace it as one piece. You can enter you refrigerator model number here and it will help you narrow down the part: www.amresupply.com/lookup
Thank you so much! Question: If the water jnlet valve is still good, I can get the water from the dispenser, but the iced maker can not get the water. What is wrong ?
Thanks for watching, we're glad you found it helpful. If there is no water to the ice maker then it could be a couple issues. One of the water valves is stuck closed or has failed electrically. There is an ice blockage in the fill tube. The ice maker is faulty and is not sending power to the water valve. You can learn more in this video: ruclips.net/video/0c4jOhTwZSs/видео.html Hope this helps!
Thanks for watching. When a call for water is made, 120V is sent to the water valve but there are exceptions. Some models have a diode which will step down the voltage in half. These are less common though.
if i may give you some advice, stop uploading 10 videos at once, all it does is flooding the notifications and make people think "well, im not gonna watch all these..."
Thanks for sharing that observation. This is something we are aware of and most of the videos in our repair videos are very specific repairs that most people will only watch when solving a specific problem. This refrigerator series has 80 videos. We have staggered the release into groups rather than releasing all 80 at once however we didn't want to take multiple months of daily releases to publish the content. Most of the views come from specific searches from google or the RUclips main page. We are grateful for our subscribers but we don't expect every subscriber to watch every single one of our videos. We are working on more content that can be watched anytime, like the "how it works" or other general informational videos.
If you found this video helpful, let us know in the comments, or leave a like 👍 This will help give this video a boost and help others discover this tutorial!
Thank you for making this video. I’m not sure if this is what has been causing our mysterious water leak off and on for years, but I’m going to check it out.
I’ve replaced the water line to the refrigerator twice already when it was leaking. So it could be that again. It’s definitely something related to the ice maker because when it’s turned off, there’s no water on the floor behind the frig. When I turned the water supply line and ice maker back on, the mysterious water leak returned.
I don’t know if turning the temperature up inside the refrigerator can cause water to leak from anywhere or not. I should have been more systematic about things, but I still think it’s had to do with the ice maker because when I turned it off, the water leak stopped too.
Senior (real, haha) female here trying to fix a problem the appliance repair man couldn’t. So thank you. I’ll be looking for a video about dishwasher leaks next. They are definitely two distinct leaks.
Thanks for watching. We saw from your other reply that you were able to narrow down and fix the problem! Glad to hear it.
Samsung ice maker. Only runs the water for about 3 seconds. Plenty of pressure, how does the valve timer it? Can a valve sorta fail? Have not checked tube
No water filter
Located in the lower drawer
Reset was done numerous times and the maker machinery seems to be working correctly
In some models you can adjust the water level for the ice maker: ruclips.net/video/x35UvA9raMw/видео.htmlsi=NHd89iqOuuglwnRD&t=334
Other models might have electronic controls but can't say for sure which have this or not.
Also check to make sure there are no blockages in the fill tube. ruclips.net/video/x35UvA9raMw/видео.htmlsi=NPbzxoCshMenERU3&t=50
Seems like I have a faulty valve as I get a reading on the valve prongs but no readings on the wiring harness. It’s a simple wiring harness with only a single connection for each prong.
Thanks for watching. If you're getting readings on the valve but not on the wire harness then the wires or the connection might be faulty. In this case you could try repairing the wires but in a lot of cases it's easiest to install a new valve assembly.
I check mine, which looks similar to the one in your video. I checked it by disconnecting the colored wires for each solinoid and touching the probes to the solinoid contacts. The yellow and the brown came back about 450, while the green was about 220. Is a return of 1 the only indicator that it is bad, or could a higher resistance than the other 2 also indicate it is bad? Thanks for any help.
Thanks for watching. Those readings are within the normal range, it is possible that one valve is not identical to the other. We have a video to troubleshoot the water dispenser, have you checked any of these other things? ruclips.net/video/URX55vrCExA/видео.html
In that connector plug which wires are you testing for continuity
Thanks for watching. Different models will have different wire connectors but generally the wire colors will correspond to a specific valve / solenoid. It's best to trace the wires from the valve you want to check and look at which pins the wires feed into. That will tell you which pins you need to test for that valve. You'll have do this for each valve you want to test.
Mine is weird, I have a single solenoid that then feeds a dual solenoid so which do I replace or both is needed????
Thanks for watching. It's like a combined assembly so you'd have to replace it as one piece. You can enter you refrigerator model number here and it will help you narrow down the part: www.amresupply.com/lookup
Thank you so much!
Question: If the water jnlet valve is still good, I can get the water from the dispenser, but the iced maker can not get the water. What is wrong ?
Thanks for watching, we're glad you found it helpful. If there is no water to the ice maker then it could be a couple issues.
One of the water valves is stuck closed or has failed electrically.
There is an ice blockage in the fill tube.
The ice maker is faulty and is not sending power to the water valve.
You can learn more in this video: ruclips.net/video/0c4jOhTwZSs/видео.html
Hope this helps!
How much voltage should you be getting at the refrigerator's connector power source to the water valve?
Thanks for watching. When a call for water is made, 120V is sent to the water valve but there are exceptions. Some models have a diode which will step down the voltage in half. These are less common though.
if i may give you some advice, stop uploading 10 videos at once, all it does is flooding the notifications and make people think "well, im not gonna watch all these..."
Thanks for sharing that observation. This is something we are aware of and most of the videos in our repair videos are very specific repairs that most people will only watch when solving a specific problem. This refrigerator series has 80 videos. We have staggered the release into groups rather than releasing all 80 at once however we didn't want to take multiple months of daily releases to publish the content. Most of the views come from specific searches from google or the RUclips main page. We are grateful for our subscribers but we don't expect every subscriber to watch every single one of our videos. We are working on more content that can be watched anytime, like the "how it works" or other general informational videos.
@@AmreSupplyThanks for uploading 10 or as many videos as you have as quickly as possible. I'm sure everyone except this guy appreciates it!