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Weight Distribution Hitch - Needed or Not for this Setup?
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- Опубликовано: 22 июн 2024
- Thanks for watching. I've really been on the fence about getting a WDH for my trailering setup. In this video I explain the weights and capacities working with. I'm pulling with a 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 with the 3.0 duramax engine and the max trailering package. The Forest River Ibex toy hauler I'm pulling weighs between 5k - 7k lbs and has a tongue weight of 700 to 800 lbs depending on what I have loaded in the garage.
I have almost 20 years of Toyhauler towing experience here mostly in AZ. Used a Ford F250 Powerstroke.
#1 The tow rating numbers on these new half ton trucks are WAY OVERINFLATED!
#2 Use the weight distribution hitch…it puts more weight on the steer axle so in a panic situation or during an evasive maneuver to avoid an accident you’ll thank God you had one!
#3 Here is a quote I heard years ago…”It’s just a better way to hook your trailer to your truck”…
Level tongue . hitch hitch ht is also important , I tow a 6200 lb airstream 850 hitch I use one I have the same sag on my rear ram 1500
Your numbers and previous experience sound good. Keep the tung weight at 10 to 15 percent and you are good. Weight distribution hitches can actually damage your trailer in off road situations where you might get into "extreme" angles. This may actually bend the A frame of your trailer.
Can we get an actual driving impressions review of the new rig, lots of people in your camp are probably curious on the max trailering and 3.73s, myself included
@@saltman3308 yes, soon for sure. I want to get some miles under my belt and actually tow this toy hauler long distance. But I can tell you now I have no regrets. Arguably, I should have gone with this exact vehicle a year and a half ago. The diesel engine suits my driving needs perfectly since I do long hauls for the most part. For example, I'm about to put my dirt bike in the back and do 680 mi round trip this weekend. I'm anticipating getting pretty great fuel economy based on what I've been getting so far. The truck pulls The toy hauler pretty strong and commuting is a breeze. So far the only negative thing I have to say is that for the money I got several more features in the tundra that I do not have in this vehicle. But I can live without them for sure.
Rear suspension
Most people are satisfied with help assist airbags, but this solution is not without its drawbacks:
a) some air pumps located outside the cabin stop working due to condensation, so they need to be placed e.g. under/behind the rear seat, which requires drilling
b) additional air hoses increase the risk of possible failure, e.g. off the road
c) and there is a danger that is not talked about much, namely the structure of the frame - in leaf springs there are two mounting points that take the entire weight to the frame, so for example a load of 4k lbs is divided into 2k for each point or e.g. 1800 lbs for the first one and 2200 for the second point, but if you install the airbag in one point, then the for example of 4k lbs loads one point with a mass of 4k lbs all the time. This point is strong, so it can sometimes take impacts from bump stops, but can a constant load at one point without support on a frame that was designed for leaf springs lead to damage to the frame in the long run? - I don't know, but some experts say so.
You can also consider adjustable passive solutions, e.g. RAS "active" suspension or Hellwig helper springs and additionally a stronger adjustable (it can also be Hellwig) anti-sway bar, but a anti-sway bar can reduce the articulation of the suspension off the road.
This is some great info, thanks for sharing. Certainly want to avoid a hose line or bag failure while towing. I'm really hoping to only use the bags just a little bit for some extra support. I'll make sure to look into those other options too. I'm familiar with some, but not all.
Great question. I have a 23 Tundra and I put rear airbags on it. I load the truck, inflate my airbags to suck up some of the weight. Then I attach the trailer and install my WDH. I wonder if I’m doing that right and am I maybe reducing my hitch weight too much?
I think (and I could be wrong) you inflate your airbags last. Hook up the trailer, hook up the bars, then once the WDH is applied you can air up the bags. Again, I'm not certain about that.
@@ThomperBeThompin I’m glad to be having this conversation to try and learn more. Another guy on RUclips said that if you do it that way you are actually decreasing the force you are putting on the front tires. Sort of like when you use your tongue jack to raise the truck to help install the WDH bars?
@@vitkobylka6432 I have heard the same thing, and from multiple sources. When you have tongue weight and use airbags to "level" it out, it can actually increase the tongue weight and thus take even more weight off your front axle. I'm going to test it out and see how it handles.
Set your bags before adding the WDH, you do it last than the pivot point of the WDH adds MORE torque to the bars and would be way over manufacturer recommendations and will likely lead to a broken a-frame.
@@robmd3851 I guess if you develop a leak in the bags it could become somewhat dangerous?
Probably RAS suspension
Always a controversial topic but i think your fine with adding just airbags.
Thanks, I think so too. Much heavier than I'd probably go WDH.