My problem with that lathe is it’s smaller and less accurate than my Craftsman from the 60’s. It does have better controls though but I think for the money better chucks and some change gears would be a better investment for me if I will keep a tiny lathe that’s so limited in use
@@VintageEngineRepairsanother great channel to check out would be ThisOldTony. He did a few mini lathe videos about five or so years ago, and even made some upgrades like replacing the nylon gears with homemade replacement metal ones.
When thread cutting with a die. Remove the centre from the tail stock. Clamp the rod in the chuck. Move the tail stock to about 1” from the end of the rod and lock the tail stock. Place the die on the end of the shaft and wind the tail stock shaft out until it lightly holds the die against the shaft. This will give you the die square to the shaft. Turn the chuck by hand and the tail stock handle to hold the die square as it moves down the rod.
You need to do a part 2 and may be even part 3 on this lathe because there is a lot more to cover, I have had this same lathe now for over 4+ years and cannot really complain if you do the adjustments change the spindles bearings to angular contact bearings lap the bed in you will get many years of work out of the lathe, I have not changed the plastic gears at all after 4+ years they are still running well today and I use this lathe every day making parts from all types metals, if people are breaking these gears they are doing something wrong, also the other job I found needs doing is remove the motor pull it apart clean the chips out and they do fill up with a lot of chips, of Couse that is going to short the motor out, and then fit some fly screen or similar to the vents on each end, I have worked out this is why the motors burn out before the end of their life as many people have complained about a very simple fix. 👍👍
Quite refreshing to see such a helpful and honest review. And thanks for your honesty regarding how you received this item. I have wanted to acquire a small lathe for years. Still not sure the need would justify the expense for me, but good to know that such items are available. Good job demonstrating something I have experienced with Chinese tools: usually they will do the job, but often require tweaking and modification to take them from junk to functionality.
Well, I'm definitely not going to waste any time watching the entire video. Watching you lift the entire lathe at 0:54 and put it onto the table top, you appear to be relatively fit and strong. That machine is UNDER 100lbs. AT 1:21 ...gears are plastic. And the drive train gears at 2:04 ...plastic. Showing the half-nut engaging at 3:18 ...I see no thread-dial indicator. The slop in the cross-slide and top slide at 3:23 is ridiculous. Correcting this should NOT be required from the factory. You do NOT need a lathe to use a threading die. Just when I thought the video was really bad....use a threading die??? But, from what I understand ....this is a $500 lathe .....you got for free to do a review on it? Well, if it was FREE ....your review is very clearly bias. THIS MACHINE IS A COMPLETE WASTE OF MONEY. IT IS PIECE OF JUNK. Your "threading" actually did NOT test the threading capability ....which is 100% impossible to do on this machine .....because there is no thread-dial indicator!! .
@@taxicamelhow would you turn down that piece of stock to make that bolt? So what that he used a die, he has just showed the basic function and flaws of a $500 lathe.
@@taxicamel Whenever I finish my shop, a cheap mini lathe is my first purchase. I have very little interest *at my current level* for cutting custom single point threads. I'll purchase a tap and die set for that function. Its main job will be turning pins and bushings for other projects. Some day I might want to upgrade, but for now, initial startup cost is my overriding factor.
@@taxicamel you seem like a very angry, frustrated person. Have you tried meditation? Chamomile tea? Vallium? Making something as an outlet for your frustrations? Turning threads is most certainly possible on that lathe, perhaps he didn't have the tooling for single point thread cutting? In a push, you can actually use the correct thread size tap as a cutting tool also. There are many, many very well respected RUclipsrs using these lathes and for someone who wants to broaden their horizons, its not a terrible starting point. They have their flaws, but for the money, they will allow people to dip their toes into machining and see if they want to take it further. Selling them is easy should people want to upgrade in the future. Cheer up mate, go make something to be proud of!
Good video… I bought the same and after having to replace the low/high gear box gears finally purchased a set of metal gears. It’s a little noisy but has not failed me yet and the machine reliability is meeting my expectations.
I made mounts for exhibit displays. I had the Harbor Freight version. Lasted for years and was perfectly adequate for my needs. If you accept what these tiny, inexpensive machines are for, you won't be disappointed. If you're trying to machine a Saturn V rocket engine, you'll come up short.
I've had one for a few years, with a few mods it's a handy part of my toolkit. Improving the gibs and upgrading the motor to a 600w brushless sewing machine motor, with the usual bearing mods have made it good even for little mild steel projects.
Had a machine like this at school. Only ever used it for drilling holes. After about a year you could see it was already starting to wear a little. But for the money you cant really complain. And they still keep their value
@@VintageEngineRepairs wasnt cared for at all. We had another classroom with very high grade machinery, also cnc stuff. But that was for the machinists. They just bought something to let us get a bit familiar with the basics of a lathe. Since we were metalworkers it wasnt very relevant to us
As soon as they said I could I agreed to it. I have been approached by other companies where I was expected to give positive ones and I refused right away. I used the lathe just a few hours ago and once again it’s holding within a micron or two over 5cm. It’s been brilliant. You will need to spend a bit of time just going over and setting it up; but it’s well worth it!
Thanks. I am about to buy this thingy. I am glad you showed me what I am about to expect. Previously, I wondered how is it possible to get it cheap, yet working well.
I re-create small gun parts on my mini. When Milton came through Tampa, I re-created an emulsion tube for a Techumseh engine and the thing ran for 20 hours while we were of of power. If you can run it and know it's limitations, you can get great results.
a bit of advice- yes EVERYTHING an average person can afford is made in china so my advice is ,for this particular thing, go for the 8x option. the 8x12 usually 8x14 in some brands ,gives a more compatible machine. ie u can get the accessories to fit from anywhere and they would be industry standard =easier to fit/work with . like 4 jaw chuck ,milling attachment boring bar setups different quick change tool posts etc. also more likely to get metal change gears. plastic is just crazy. also heavier. that thing moved around /rocked really easy
Haha, i hadn't seen this video when I commented on a recent video about the myford for sale in the South West. I hope you're enjoying it! I look forward to seeing you do more with it. Ill hopefully have my hercus9 set up before long. I can't wait!! It's been packed away while I build a new shed from repurposed bits of tin and a golf simulator haha!!! I just need to find a decent mill now!! Happy turning to you!!
Nice video mate. A handful of years ago I purchased a Toyo M1 micro (desktop sized) lathe. It's basic, requiring the drive belt to run in different pulleys to alter the spindle speed. But at the time I was playing with model planes, so I wanted to make plastic or ally bits and pieces, so it;s been ideal so far! I'm actually a precision mill setter, but did start off with lathes as a job. So the mini one is good fun! Could do with new bearings is all.
You do know that the actual "threading" was NOT done by the lathe don't you. He used a tap and die for the threading. It was only turning material to the proper O.D. AND I.D. was done with a drill bit. .
Thanks much appreciated, I've been thinking of a lathe but like you its all about $$$ however that little fella won't break the bank. Re music, I hate videos that play music for several reasons, its often very narrow in its 'appeal', often too loud, and even tho' you can mute its sometimes interspersed with talking HOWEVER a few people get it right and yours did....not loud or headbang just right, thumbs up.
I tried this when I first got my mini-lathe and it does work but I ended up adding a true carriage lock just like in this video, surface finish improved after adding the lock. Also added locks to the cross and compound slides.
I've looked at lathe's in the past several times too, but yet to buy. I'm pretty sure this is the same lathe sold by multiple different suppliers with multiple different brand names/colour schemes. Toolstation, Machine Mart(Clarke), Draper, Sealey, and probably plenty of names I've never heard of too. That probably means it's made in China so if you want one, might be worth just buying it from China at a fraction of the cost. Could probably add the drill/mill that is available for it and still pay less than one of the known UK vendors(re-sellers).
@@VintageEngineRepairs Haha, that might be a good thing depending on where you live! My Chinese lathe of that design was bought in 1997 for $260 and holds plus or minus 1/16''. It's still very useful as I make sleeves and spacers for my projects with no regard for precision. It turns plastic parts quite nicely. The cog drive belt is so worn that it sometimes skips teeth. Cheers!
Well done Tom, great video and a really good review , well done on the nut and bolt turned out well, only small lathe i ever seen working was my uncles homemade one, he had it to turn out parts for his small steam engines parts, and him and his friend had a bigger one for the vintage tractor parts 💪👍
Awesome, enjoy, I can’t stop making things on mine. I machined a broken part for a chainsaw oil pump the other day, a high carbon steel punch to a size I didn’t have and a custom bolt to fix a saw. All in all couple days haha
Usually to correct taper, you adjust the tail stock side to side. Shimming the headstock up has nothing to do with taper. As you are cutting from the side
I would love to find out more about how you shimmed the headstock. I have the exact lathe and have been trying to solve the tapper issue for a year now.
Hey, you take off the headstock and place a shim in on the v-groove depending on which side you want the head to twist, bolt it down, make a cut in some metal and measure taper :) keep shimming until there is no taper
I have zero experience with these things but from what I've seen and read, many folks replace the nylon gears with metal ones. Should find them online. 👍🍻
@@Grauenwolf I had a 7x lathe with the headstock gears and now have the 8x with the belt drive and 1100W BLDC (and 1.5" spindle bore!) I would never get another 7x lathe since the cheap 8x lathes started becoming more common.
I got one of these and came here to learn how to adjust it so it can be used. Right out of the box, in addition to the competition that was apparently going on to see how much packing grease they could put on it, the advance does not turn freely. There also seem to be some things about this lathe that are not well designed. I've seen others complain about bent drive rods and other things. It has potential, but the manufacturing and lack of final adjustment just means that for anyone who is getting one to learn how to use one so that they can expand the capabilities of their home shop is completely up a creek. Also, this is a metric drive rod. Any idea if it can be changed out to an imperial? (Then I'd just have to either find or build a table of gear setups for that if the ones that came with will be able to be used.) To your final word, I LOVE those "Jumping Jack" compactors (as we call them here) and have ever since I first saw one being used when I was 14! Very strange design, but also very practical. Just a challenge to start if you lack the strength on your own and don't have a second person there to help you stabilize it.
Hey :) I don’t think mine had any grease! A little oil and that was about it! The carriage may not move well until the gib’s are set correctly. I cover this in the video! I hope you love yours as much as I love mine. I use it all the time and it’s been great!
Im surprised how good you with it considering you've never used one before, i bought a 1958 myford ml7 to start but i hated it could not work it (it was mostly worn out for a beginner) i sold it and i bough a cheap drummond round bed but has no power feed as someone has sawn it off but i dont think i need it, ive not attempted to use it to make things yet as its so hard for me to operate lathes.
I'm really trying to convince myself that I need one of these, but then I also have a 3D printer right behind me that can, with some compromises, make all the parts you can make with a lathe and much more, just out of plastic. when ever I'm thinking of parts I would make with a lathe there's some plastic goo squeezing in and I have a perfectly sound concept for the 3D printed part where I don't have to mess with welding and tolerances, I can just print a bearing holder, with threads to attach the part, and if it doesn't work I can just redesign it and make it again for pennies. realistically, machining steel with a mini lathe would be a pain in the rear anyways, and given that many modern plastics can have similar properties to aluminium at room temp....
Thanks for your comment! I get where you’re coming from-3D printers are incredibly versatile, especially for making complex shapes and redesigning on the fly. However, there are some tasks that a lathe really shines at, particularly when working with metals or when you need precise tolerances that 3D printing can’t quite achieve yet. Plus, with a lathe, you’re not limited to just plastic, which opens up more possibilities in terms of strength and durability, especially for projects that require materials like steel or aluminum. It all depends on the kinds of parts you need, but both tools can definitely complement each other!
Hey :) yep! It’s fantastic and I’m using it all the time - just the other day I machined some nylon bushings for a mower and before that a metal cap for a tube of engine sealant that cracked lol it won’t now it’s made from aluminum! Buy your metal / plastic stock from Ali express, it’s cheap, free shipping over $10 USD and you can get in in all different lengths. Also, I brought carbide tooling from Ali express too and a live centre and they are fantastic.
The negative comments you’ll see are from people who don’t own one and they hate on it because it’s a hobbiest lathe and made in China. I look past that and enjoy the opportunities it’s given me as a mechanic and the freedom being able to make my own parts, incredibly accurately, whenever I like :)
I'd have to replace those plastic gears and that weak DC motor. Once I had an AC motor with a VFD and metal gears I'd want to make a longer bed so I could turn something useful like a 29" rifle barrel. I can't see any reason to spend hours making screws that cost $0.50... I'd probably replace the whole base with epoxy granite to stop the chatter for those heavier cuts. In fact... it would probably be easier, quicker and cheaper to start from scratch as a diy project.
Would love to buy one... But they won't ship to me :( (I'm in Thailand). I even offered to order from their Australian warehouse which is much closer AND pay all shipping and taxes, still... no can do. Great customer service right there :(
@@VintageEngineRepairs It IS true, and I have the emails to prove it. What annoys me is that at no point during the account creation process is it mentioned that "We don't ship to southeast Asia", no,... you have to go through the whole process, create an account, put the item in your cart, go to check out, fill in all your address and payment information and right at the very end are you told that the item is not available in my region. I additionally tried to buy a TIG welder from Vevor to no avail. I opened a support ticket in the hope that someone would assist me, but this is the reply I got: Dear customer, Thank you for your interest in our product. We do not sell our products to Thailand and therefore we are unable to offer you this product. For both our US and Australian sites, we can only deliver to the address of the corresponding country, i.e. orders placed from US addresses can only be delivered to the US and Puerto Rico. Orders placed in Australia can only be delivered to Australian addresses. We apologise for any inconvenience this may cause you. If you have any further issues, please feel free to contact us. Best Wishes Ada
Maybe look out for a second hand lathe locally? It's probably different there, but where i am you can often find better quality old equipment for the same price you'd pay for a Chinese copy or similar design. I much prefer good quality used equipment over new lower quality tools.
the largest issue though is that vevor is hit or miss, the lathe i got is practically useless even after a bunch of work. it wont cut right, the finish is bad, tailstock had to be manually centered and shimmed to center, along with a whole host of other issues that i spent days over. the most egregious thing i found was that the entire tool post was a good 3 mm too high, no matter what sized tooling i use whether brazed carbide, insert or high speed steel its always so above center you cant do anything at all. the post should be below center so you can shim the tooling up, in the end i had to just buy a quick change TP so i can align it properly. Another horrifying thing i discovered was they wired the switch on the neutral line which means even with the switch off the circuitry is energized and can be lethal, ive bought alot of stuff from vevor before and every time the equipment was disappointingly bad, unless i got unlucky 4 times in a row (one product which failed in a manner requiring me to get stitches) vevor just doesnt really do quality control
Sorry to hear of your bad luck, that sucks!!! I have nothing but good experiences with their equipment fortunately! I have their lathe, welder and an inductive heater. I did have to shim the lathe and add a carriage lock, but that was all I have done. Hopefully you can get your lathe sorted!!
I can swap the power plug around, it's a 50% chance its correctly switched with a europlug. Having the switch on the neutral line isn't a big deal as long as you have proper grounding or its properly insulated.
well the shoddy wiring internally is what makes it poor, the plug to board splice that doesn't go to the switch is just twisted together, not soldered not terminal connected not crimped, under vibration itll shake itself loose and for mine which has the live spliced like that itll short to the chassis and need repair, i already fixed the wiring but there are so many other defects that it baffles me they put a quality control approval sticker on it and are proud to have their name on it
@@EdwardTriesToScience like I said, live and neutral are interchangeable here, I can just turn the plug around so not using that mindset at all. 😬 Got a fairly good setup fusebox with proper RCD's that also helps alot. And yes got zapped with 230v and 380v a couple times so I know they work 😂 But it seems rather normal for Chinese QC to me, take the k40 laser, as a fine example. There is 24+kv inside of that thing but the ground isn't even attached to bare metal. 24kv is lethal, 230v is like peanuts compared to that. There are western companies that put their name on them but with western QC, standards and modifications however you pay a premium for that. I can get a Alibaba branded one for 450 bucks or spend 700 and don't have any issues with quality and safety. Same machine, same parts but better finish.
It’s quiet enough for apartment nighttime use! I use it at 3am and have attached houses either side. It’s incredibly quiet. A slight hum. When you engage the lead screw it’s a bit louder. Grease the gears to quiet them down
It’s a rangeman 9400. I am so hard on my watches and the g/shocks are the only ones that hold up. I like this one as the stop watch function can be actioned from any menus you’re in with a single press to start and stop :)
Purchased this exact lathe 4 years ago and gave it the basket case treatment I'd normally use for a clapped out 50 year old motorcycle ... Required a total strip and rebuild to be usable as I think every scrap casting & component was inserted as some psychological testing during Covid to see if myself and many other victims would crack . U-tube has many victims of this cruel joke and I did everything and more to make mine work . The jokes on Vevor cause I'm still sane and me lathes an absolute corker ( now ) I also know too much about cheap mini lathes so there's that . I noticed they sent you one ; and still didn't get it right . You didn't even find the entrance to the rabbit hole one gets sucked into cuzzy ...
It occurs to me that anyone who's put off by the thought of having to fettle and adjust a new bit of workshop equipment might not have what it takes to be a proper home machinist [I'm kidding]. Rather than spending a fortune and expecting everything to be perfect, I think that fiddling about and improving stuff is half the fun of it! My own preference was never to buy new (I couldn't afford anything decent, anyway) but to get hold of something old and worn that was in need of restoration. I remember getting an ancient Myford - it took me over 6 months to revive it, but it was time well spent. I liked the old-school approach to construction - brass, steel, bronze and cast iron instead of the aluminium, nylon and plastic that goes into most modern low-cost machines. I can undertand the desire to have something brand new, though. The only piece of vital equipment in my workshop that was new was the kettle... ☕👀 Cheers!
I have the Harbor Freight version of this lathe. The parallelism of the ways to the spindle axis is almost perfect - within a few thousands in six inches. Anything worse should be totally unacceptable and a clue that the manufacturer took little interest in their quality control and respect for their customers. This “feature” is the most important parameter in a metal lathe and should be considered an indicator of the overall quality of their products.
venor $923.00 E/bay $599.00 make your own using a drill bench press $140 3 jaw chuck $60 + this be handy > compound table $50 temu steel & aluminum weeks mucking about @@
Great rundown of the goods and bads and improvements. Have you tried turning some metal held between the chuck and tailstock centre and checking for taper? Shimming your headstock like you did may have overcome one problem but may have introduced another one if the tailstock is not adjustable sideways (maybe it is, can't see).
Hey! Thanks for the kind words! Yes I have done, it’s still very good (relatively) it’s a hobbyist lathe of course! About 0.005mm per cm with tail stock!
Well, that would be interresting to actually make the bolt thread with the lathe. Wonder if you can do it (and what thread range are allowed - both metric and imperial) on this machine ?
@@HarryJarrell Mine also came with one but I don't bother using it, I find it's faster to just reverse the motor and drive it back to the start. But most of the time I'm not cutting more than about an inch or 2 of thread.
I just want to thread some barrels. But I don't know what I would do with it after that? But I think I would find something that seems loose and needs faced.
The amount of slop is alarming, but like a lot of things that come out of China, if you have the skills to rectify the mistakes, you can make it useful. Even so, I’d prefer something like a Denford, bought used from a college that doesn't want it any more.
Yep, just take the 4 bolts off, place the feeler gauge on the V in the side you want to move the head stock away from. Tighten down, machine a length, measure and re-adjust.
Great video! But if you decide to order one of these LATHES do not order it with NYLON GEARS, I dont care how strong the nylon gears will be they will wear faster than the metal gears ORDER the lathe with METAL GEARS. ALSO i believe the company still offers the option of 220volt or 110volt IS that you show decide what will be the immediate advantage and disadvantages of the voltage you will require
@@dnomyarnostaw Get the 8x machine instead of the smaller 7x for not much more money. Then, it has no drive gears, all belt driven. Metal change gears for the lead screw are unnecessary, I use 3d printed ones and have no problem.
I started out with a mini lathe many years ago, then I slowly graduated from that to a 9x19 and then a full-sized gunsmithing lathe. (same with the mini mill. I went to a CNCmill) Anyway, I sold my full sized machines thinking I'd never need them again after retiring from the work force. Boy was I wrong. Now I'm thinking of buying another Mini Lathe and I was wondering. On my larger lathes they had a dial indicator that would spin around on a circular gauge which indicated the exact time in which to engage the half-nut when cutting threads. I don't see any kind of dial on these Vevor mini lathes that would indicate when to engage the half-nut when cutting threads. How does one time the engagement of the half-nut without these indicator dials in place?
Hey! No there isn’t that dial, the way to cut threads in this case is to never disengage the half nut. There is likely a better way, but I will take a pass, when I get to the end of the threads, stop the machine, turn out the cross slide, set the machine in reverse, start the machine, set it in forward, turn the cross slide in to where it was and then slightly deeper and then repeat. It’s annoying, but with some practise it’s easy.
This is a very ubiquitous lathe. Thousands exist and there's plenty of support. I use mine to make pins, washers, sleeves and bushings for repair and general use (nothing complex). It's limitation is its, surprise, size and spindle torque. But for a small workspace, it's ideal.
I wish could get one I'm trying to restore old farm equipment some parts are hard to find or cost to much to get someone to make or repair on SS income
@@VintageEngineRepairs It's from a Kipor IG2600 generator, i can't get a replacement piston anywhere, no one makes pistons that are 65.99, but I get a 67mm piston from AliExpress, I did try a 65.5mm piston but it was a few thouw too small...I've ordered 66mm piston ring so I'm hoping they'll fit my original piston,
@@VintageEngineRepairs The most noticeable is the cross slide play, but you adjust the top slide. On the second take I saw the play in the top slide too, but not nearly as big as in the cross slide.
Anyone know where I can get spare parts for mine? The controller pcb stopped working. I politely emailed Vevor to ask where to buy spares and never replied. :(
Thread a bar, bend it, make it a simple locking lever for your slide lock? If you cut a lot of threads this guy has a nice idea of a simple home made aid for that. Remember that tool post can hold some workpieces while the chuck holds a slot drill or end mill, then you have a simple milling machine, maybe cutting keyways or simple milling cuts. :)
You can! Though it’s much more time consuming changing gears and the process. For standard threads I recommend using taps and dies if you have them on hand. My opinion is that cutting threads is best kept for non standard sizes.
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If they don’t have pins that go in the holes on certain nuts they are NOT spanners.
My problem with that lathe is it’s smaller and less accurate than my Craftsman from the 60’s. It does have better controls though but I think for the money better chucks and some change gears would be a better investment for me if I will keep a tiny lathe that’s so limited in use
@@308dad8 👍
@@308dad8 👍👍
Valor
You should watch artisan makes videos on his mini lathe, he has a well documented series on which upgrades one should make to these mini lathes.
Awesome thanks! I’ll check him out
@@VintageEngineRepairsanother great channel to check out would be ThisOldTony. He did a few mini lathe videos about five or so years ago, and even made some upgrades like replacing the nylon gears with homemade replacement metal ones.
When thread cutting with a die. Remove the centre from the tail stock. Clamp the rod in the chuck. Move the tail stock to about 1” from the end of the rod and lock the tail stock. Place the die on the end of the shaft and wind the tail stock shaft out until it lightly holds the die against the shaft. This will give you the die square to the shaft. Turn the chuck by hand and the tail stock handle to hold the die square as it moves down the rod.
Absolutely right :) that’s exactly what I do now! Thanks for sharing
You need to do a part 2 and may be even part 3 on this lathe because there is a lot more to cover, I have had this same lathe now for over 4+ years and cannot really complain if you do the adjustments change the spindles bearings to angular contact bearings lap the bed in you will get many years of work out of the lathe, I have not changed the plastic gears at all after 4+ years they are still running well today and I use this lathe every day making parts from all types metals, if people are breaking these gears they are doing something wrong, also the other job I found needs doing is remove the motor pull it apart clean the chips out and they do fill up with a lot of chips, of Couse that is going to short the motor out, and then fit some fly screen or similar to the vents on each end, I have worked out this is why the motors burn out before the end of their life as many people have complained about a very simple fix. 👍👍
Thanks for sharing your experience that’s awesome :)
Quite refreshing to see such a helpful and honest review. And thanks for your honesty regarding how you received this item. I have wanted to acquire a small lathe for years. Still not sure the need would justify the expense for me, but good to know that such items are available. Good job demonstrating something I have experienced with Chinese tools: usually they will do the job, but often require tweaking and modification to take them from junk to functionality.
Thanks for the kind words! You’ve nailed it. It’s a good lathe but does require a bit of work to tweak and get it right! It’s a cost vs time thing :)
Well, I'm definitely not going to waste any time watching the entire video. Watching you lift the entire lathe at 0:54 and put it onto the table top, you appear to be relatively fit and strong. That machine is UNDER 100lbs. AT 1:21 ...gears are plastic. And the drive train gears at 2:04 ...plastic. Showing the half-nut engaging at 3:18 ...I see no thread-dial indicator. The slop in the cross-slide and top slide at 3:23 is ridiculous. Correcting this should NOT be required from the factory. You do NOT need a lathe to use a threading die. Just when I thought the video was really bad....use a threading die???
But, from what I understand ....this is a $500 lathe .....you got for free to do a review on it? Well, if it was FREE ....your review is very clearly bias. THIS MACHINE IS A COMPLETE WASTE OF MONEY. IT IS PIECE OF JUNK. Your "threading" actually did NOT test the threading capability ....which is 100% impossible to do on this machine .....because there is no thread-dial indicator!!
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@@taxicamelhow would you turn down that piece of stock to make that bolt? So what that he used a die, he has just showed the basic function and flaws of a $500 lathe.
@@taxicamel Whenever I finish my shop, a cheap mini lathe is my first purchase. I have very little interest *at my current level* for cutting custom single point threads. I'll purchase a tap and die set for that function. Its main job will be turning pins and bushings for other projects. Some day I might want to upgrade, but for now, initial startup cost is my overriding factor.
@@taxicamel you seem like a very angry, frustrated person.
Have you tried meditation?
Chamomile tea?
Vallium?
Making something as an outlet for your frustrations?
Turning threads is most certainly possible on that lathe, perhaps he didn't have the tooling for single point thread cutting?
In a push, you can actually use the correct thread size tap as a cutting tool also.
There are many, many very well respected RUclipsrs using these lathes and for someone who wants to broaden their horizons, its not a terrible starting point.
They have their flaws, but for the money, they will allow people to dip their toes into machining and see if they want to take it further.
Selling them is easy should people want to upgrade in the future.
Cheer up mate, go make something to be proud of!
Good video… I bought the same and after having to replace the low/high gear box gears finally purchased a set of metal gears. It’s a little noisy but has not failed me yet and the machine reliability is meeting my expectations.
Great to hear. I’ll swap them out with metal when they fail :) I’ll get a spare belt just in case too.
I made mounts for exhibit displays. I had the Harbor Freight version. Lasted for years and was perfectly adequate for my needs.
If you accept what these tiny, inexpensive machines are for, you won't be disappointed. If you're trying to machine a Saturn V rocket engine, you'll come up short.
That’s cool :) thanks for sharing your experience!
I've had one for a few years, with a few mods it's a handy part of my toolkit. Improving the gibs and upgrading the motor to a 600w brushless sewing machine motor, with the usual bearing mods have made it good even for little mild steel projects.
Thanks for sharing :)
Definitely a very good job you did reviewing this machine
It was what I was looking for and the right questions were answered
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the kind words and positive feedback!
Nice review. A little more detail on how you shimmed the unit would have been interesting.
Thanks for watching and the feedback :)
Had a machine like this at school. Only ever used it for drilling holes. After about a year you could see it was already starting to wear a little. But for the money you cant really complain. And they still keep their value
Cool! Thanks for sharing. I really enjoy mine. I can imagine at school it wasn’t well cared for and heavily used?
@@VintageEngineRepairs wasnt cared for at all. We had another classroom with very high grade machinery, also cnc stuff. But that was for the machinists. They just bought something to let us get a bit familiar with the basics of a lathe. Since we were metalworkers it wasnt very relevant to us
Good on Vevor to ask you for an honest review, not just a promotion.
As soon as they said I could I agreed to it. I have been approached by other companies where I was expected to give positive ones and I refused right away. I used the lathe just a few hours ago and once again it’s holding within a micron or two over 5cm. It’s been brilliant. You will need to spend a bit of time just going over and setting it up; but it’s well worth it!
@@VintageEngineRepairswatching video and reading your replies has sold me on it. Gonna place order tonight.
@@AutoMotoMechanic you’ll love it :)
I’ve had a bit of stuff from vevor and have been impressed with the value.
Especially the plasma cutters
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks. I am about to buy this thingy. I am glad you showed me what I am about to expect. Previously, I wondered how is it possible to get it cheap, yet working well.
Glad it helped!! :)
What a fantastic video. I have wanted a cheap metal lathe for so long, afraid of the unknown I guess.
Couldn’t agree more, I was pleasantly surprised!
I re-create small gun parts on my mini. When Milton came through Tampa, I re-created an emulsion tube for a Techumseh engine and the thing ran for 20 hours while we were of of power. If you can run it and know it's limitations, you can get great results.
Absolutely brilliant, that’s fantastic!!
the guys in the old yoyoforums had a really good guide for buying/building a metal lathe. was around 350 iirc, but this was like 15 years ago.
Ha cool :)
a bit of advice- yes EVERYTHING an average person can afford is made in china so my advice is ,for this particular thing, go for the 8x option. the 8x12 usually 8x14 in some brands ,gives a more compatible machine. ie u can get the accessories to fit from anywhere and they would be industry standard =easier to fit/work with . like 4 jaw chuck ,milling attachment boring bar setups different quick change tool posts etc. also more likely to get metal change gears. plastic is just crazy. also heavier. that thing moved around /rocked really easy
Thanks for sharing 👍
Haha, i hadn't seen this video when I commented on a recent video about the myford for sale in the South West.
I hope you're enjoying it!
I look forward to seeing you do more with it.
Ill hopefully have my hercus9 set up before long.
I can't wait!! It's been packed away while I build a new shed from repurposed bits of tin and a golf simulator haha!!!
I just need to find a decent mill now!!
Happy turning to you!!
Awesome :) thanks!
ffs, im 3 videos deep in this guys handiness. fair play haha
Haha glad you’re enjoying them!!
Good one Tom - Nice positive and honest review 👍👍
Thanks Claus! Much appreciated mate!
I still remember my first lathe project. It
was a 7/16 14 bolt and nut. Single point.
1973, I was 15.
steve
Nice!
Nice video mate. A handful of years ago I purchased a Toyo M1 micro (desktop sized) lathe. It's basic, requiring the drive belt to run in different pulleys to alter the spindle speed. But at the time I was playing with model planes, so I wanted to make plastic or ally bits and pieces, so it;s been ideal so far! I'm actually a precision mill setter, but did start off with lathes as a job.
So the mini one is good fun! Could do with new bearings is all.
Awesome to hear :) thanks for sharing!
I've never used a lathe before Tom but your video was very interesting. The nut and bolt turned out really good. 👍
Thanks John! Much appreciated mate :)
You do know that the actual "threading" was NOT done by the lathe don't you. He used a tap and die for the threading. It was only turning material to the proper O.D. AND I.D. was done with a drill bit.
.
Yes I do, thanks.
Upload a video and show us how it’s done
Thanks much appreciated, I've been thinking of a lathe but like you its all about $$$ however that little fella won't break the bank. Re music, I hate videos that play music for several reasons, its often very narrow in its 'appeal', often too loud, and even tho' you can mute its sometimes interspersed with talking HOWEVER a few people get it right and yours did....not loud or headbang just right, thumbs up.
That’s awesome thanks for all that feedback, I really appreciate!!
Spring airgun shooters and tuners love this lathe.
That’s awesome!
To lock the carriage for facing cuts. Just make sure the lead screw is disengaged and lock the half nut. Then the carriage won’t move 👍👍
I haven’t heard about that, but haven’t tried it! I just preferred to make one. Thanks for sharing!
I tried this when I first got my mini-lathe and it does work but I ended up adding a true carriage lock just like in this video, surface finish improved after adding the lock. Also added locks to the cross and compound slides.
Good to know it’s worth the time to make one :)
Bro I love how you just made a screw. You made it look so easy 😂
Hahah thanks, fortunately it was pretty simple and fun too!
Awesome review mate, straight up and honest. Cheers.
Thanks mate! Much appreciated :)
I've looked at lathe's in the past several times too, but yet to buy. I'm pretty sure this is the same lathe sold by multiple different suppliers with multiple different brand names/colour schemes. Toolstation, Machine Mart(Clarke), Draper, Sealey, and probably plenty of names I've never heard of too. That probably means it's made in China so if you want one, might be worth just buying it from China at a fraction of the cost. Could probably add the drill/mill that is available for it and still pay less than one of the known UK vendors(re-sellers).
Yep lots of versions re-branded.
Looks good enough to make a Sten or homebrew... "solvent traps"... and whatnot.
I’m not sure what they are, sorry!
@@VintageEngineRepairs Haha, that might be a good thing depending on where you live! My Chinese lathe of that design was bought in 1997 for $260 and holds plus or minus 1/16''. It's still very useful as I make sleeves and spacers for my projects with no regard for precision. It turns plastic parts quite nicely. The cog drive belt is so worn that it sometimes skips teeth. Cheers!
Nice review Tom. As you say plenty good enough for a hobbyist. I can see a purpose built workshop next for a full size lathe and milling machine😁
Thanks Al! I’d love a milling attachment :)
Looks like a great tool. The possibilities are endless. Well made review.
Thanks James! Much appreciated mate 👍
Well done Tom, great video and a really good review , well done on the nut and bolt turned out well, only small lathe i ever seen working was my uncles homemade one, he had it to turn out parts for his small steam engines parts, and him and his friend had a bigger one for the vintage tractor parts 💪👍
Thanks Nev and that’s awesome! Yes perfect for model engine parts!! :)
The lathe. The only machine that can make itself.
Never heard that saying before lol
@@VintageEngineRepairsjust don’t ask it to roll sheet metal 😂
Great tutorial and review! Thanks, I've ordered one!
Awesome, enjoy, I can’t stop making things on mine. I machined a broken part for a chainsaw oil pump the other day, a high carbon steel punch to a size I didn’t have and a custom bolt to fix a saw. All in all couple days haha
I can hardly wait!
@@ronbunker5778 grab a cheap set of feeler gauges just in case you need to shim anything :)
Will do, thanks for tip.@@VintageEngineRepairs
Nice review. Enjoyed it :)
Awesome! It’s been so handy. I can’t stop using it lol
Usually to correct taper, you adjust the tail stock side to side. Shimming the headstock up has nothing to do with taper. As you are cutting from the side
The tail stock wasn’t used, the carriage would cause the taper as the headstock wasn’t aligned with the bedways .
@@VintageEngineRepairs yes, if the head stock was not aligned side to side with the beadways. . I thought you were shimming the headstock up and down
Na sideways :)
I would love to find out more about how you shimmed the headstock. I have the exact lathe and have been trying to solve the tapper issue for a year now.
Hey, you take off the headstock and place a shim in on the v-groove depending on which side you want the head to twist, bolt it down, make a cut in some metal and measure taper :) keep shimming until there is no taper
I have zero experience with these things but from what I've seen and read, many folks replace the nylon gears with metal ones. Should find them online. 👍🍻
Yeah I heard that some people do, I’ll probably do the same when they wear out. Thanks for sharing :)
@@Grauenwolf I had a 7x lathe with the headstock gears and now have the 8x with the belt drive and 1100W BLDC (and 1.5" spindle bore!)
I would never get another 7x lathe since the cheap 8x lathes started becoming more common.
I got one of these and came here to learn how to adjust it so it can be used. Right out of the box, in addition to the competition that was apparently going on to see how much packing grease they could put on it, the advance does not turn freely. There also seem to be some things about this lathe that are not well designed. I've seen others complain about bent drive rods and other things. It has potential, but the manufacturing and lack of final adjustment just means that for anyone who is getting one to learn how to use one so that they can expand the capabilities of their home shop is completely up a creek.
Also, this is a metric drive rod. Any idea if it can be changed out to an imperial? (Then I'd just have to either find or build a table of gear setups for that if the ones that came with will be able to be used.) To your final word, I LOVE those "Jumping Jack" compactors (as we call them here) and have ever since I first saw one being used when I was 14! Very strange design, but also very practical. Just a challenge to start if you lack the strength on your own and don't have a second person there to help you stabilize it.
Hey :) I don’t think mine had any grease! A little oil and that was about it! The carriage may not move well until the gib’s are set correctly. I cover this in the video! I hope you love yours as much as I love mine. I use it all the time and it’s been great!
Im surprised how good you with it considering you've never used one before, i bought a 1958 myford ml7 to start but i hated it could not work it (it was mostly worn out for a beginner) i sold it and i bough a cheap drummond round bed but has no power feed as someone has sawn it off but i dont think i need it, ive not attempted to use it to make things yet as its so hard for me to operate lathes.
Thanks for the kind words and for sharing :) much appreciated!
I'm really trying to convince myself that I need one of these, but then I also have a 3D printer right behind me that can, with some compromises, make all the parts you can make with a lathe and much more, just out of plastic.
when ever I'm thinking of parts I would make with a lathe there's some plastic goo squeezing in and I have a perfectly sound concept for the 3D printed part where I don't have to mess with welding and tolerances, I can just print a bearing holder, with threads to attach the part, and if it doesn't work I can just redesign it and make it again for pennies.
realistically, machining steel with a mini lathe would be a pain in the rear anyways, and given that many modern plastics can have similar properties to aluminium at room temp....
Thanks for your comment! I get where you’re coming from-3D printers are incredibly versatile, especially for making complex shapes and redesigning on the fly. However, there are some tasks that a lathe really shines at, particularly when working with metals or when you need precise tolerances that 3D printing can’t quite achieve yet. Plus, with a lathe, you’re not limited to just plastic, which opens up more possibilities in terms of strength and durability, especially for projects that require materials like steel or aluminum. It all depends on the kinds of parts you need, but both tools can definitely complement each other!
LOOKS GOOD FOR BRASS
Excellent for brass :)
Very interesting video as always Tom
Thank you Barry!
Looks identical to the one This Old Tony hacked about some years ago. Down to the POM gears.
Yep! I love his content. It’s fantastic!
Sounds good. I’m really interested in getting one, but keep seeing very mixed reviews? Is your still holding up?
Hey :) yep! It’s fantastic and I’m using it all the time - just the other day I machined some nylon bushings for a mower and before that a metal cap for a tube of engine sealant that cracked lol it won’t now it’s made from aluminum! Buy your metal / plastic stock from Ali express, it’s cheap, free shipping over $10 USD and you can get in in all different lengths. Also, I brought carbide tooling from Ali express too and a live centre and they are fantastic.
@@VintageEngineRepairsthanks for the advise. When I look it actually sounds like most people that say there so bad act like they never really had one.
The negative comments you’ll see are from people who don’t own one and they hate on it because it’s a hobbiest lathe and made in China. I look past that and enjoy the opportunities it’s given me as a mechanic and the freedom being able to make my own parts, incredibly accurately, whenever I like :)
I'd have to replace those plastic gears and that weak DC motor. Once I had an AC motor with a VFD and metal gears I'd want to make a longer bed so I could turn something useful like a 29" rifle barrel. I can't see any reason to spend hours making screws that cost $0.50...
I'd probably replace the whole base with epoxy granite to stop the chatter for those heavier cuts. In fact... it would probably be easier, quicker and cheaper to start from scratch as a diy project.
Cool, yeah, there seems to be lots of mods you can do and tutorials online. I have done a few and have found it to be a great little machine!
Put your tap and die sets in the drill chuck so they are for sure straight
I don’t have a tool / adapter for it, but good advise if you can!
Would love to buy one... But they won't ship to me :( (I'm in Thailand). I even offered to order from their Australian warehouse which is much closer AND pay all shipping and taxes, still... no can do. Great customer service right there :(
If that’s true, that’s not good!
@@VintageEngineRepairs It IS true, and I have the emails to prove it.
What annoys me is that at no point during the account creation process is it mentioned that "We don't ship to southeast Asia", no,... you have to go through the whole process, create an account, put the item in your cart, go to check out, fill in all your address and payment information and right at the very end are you told that the item is not available in my region. I additionally tried to buy a TIG welder from Vevor to no avail. I opened a support ticket in the hope that someone would assist me, but this is the reply I got:
Dear customer,
Thank you for your interest in our product.
We do not sell our products to Thailand and therefore we are unable to offer you this product.
For both our US and Australian sites, we can only deliver to the address of the corresponding country, i.e. orders placed from US addresses can only be delivered to the US and Puerto Rico. Orders placed in Australia can only be delivered to Australian addresses.
We apologise for any inconvenience this may cause you.
If you have any further issues, please feel free to contact us.
Best Wishes
Ada
Ah I’m sorry to hear that!!
Maybe look out for a second hand lathe locally?
It's probably different there, but where i am you can often find better quality old equipment for the same price you'd pay for a Chinese copy or similar design.
I much prefer good quality used equipment over new lower quality tools.
Should have tried thread cutting with the lathe.
Interesting use of cut off tool for facing.
I have done since, it works beautifully!
the largest issue though is that vevor is hit or miss, the lathe i got is practically useless even after a bunch of work. it wont cut right, the finish is bad, tailstock had to be manually centered and shimmed to center, along with a whole host of other issues that i spent days over.
the most egregious thing i found was that the entire tool post was a good 3 mm too high, no matter what sized tooling i use whether brazed carbide, insert or high speed steel its always so above center you cant do anything at all. the post should be below center so you can shim the tooling up, in the end i had to just buy a quick change TP so i can align it properly. Another horrifying thing i discovered was they wired the switch on the neutral line which means even with the switch off the circuitry is energized and can be lethal, ive bought alot of stuff from vevor before and every time the equipment was disappointingly bad, unless i got unlucky 4 times in a row (one product which failed in a manner requiring me to get stitches) vevor just doesnt really do quality control
Sorry to hear of your bad luck, that sucks!!! I have nothing but good experiences with their equipment fortunately! I have their lathe, welder and an inductive heater. I did have to shim the lathe and add a carriage lock, but that was all I have done. Hopefully you can get your lathe sorted!!
I can swap the power plug around, it's a 50% chance its correctly switched with a europlug.
Having the switch on the neutral line isn't a big deal as long as you have proper grounding or its properly insulated.
well the shoddy wiring internally is what makes it poor, the plug to board splice that doesn't go to the switch is just twisted together, not soldered not terminal connected not crimped, under vibration itll shake itself loose and for mine which has the live spliced like that itll short to the chassis and need repair, i already fixed the wiring but there are so many other defects that it baffles me they put a quality control approval sticker on it and are proud to have their name on it
@@EdwardTriesToScience like I said, live and neutral are interchangeable here, I can just turn the plug around so not using that mindset at all. 😬
Got a fairly good setup fusebox with proper RCD's that also helps alot.
And yes got zapped with 230v and 380v a couple times so I know they work 😂
But it seems rather normal for Chinese QC to me, take the k40 laser, as a fine example.
There is 24+kv inside of that thing but the ground isn't even attached to bare metal.
24kv is lethal, 230v is like peanuts compared to that.
There are western companies that put their name on them but with western QC, standards and modifications however you pay a premium for that.
I can get a Alibaba branded one for 450 bucks or spend 700 and don't have any issues with quality and safety.
Same machine, same parts but better finish.
Thank you for this review!
How loud is it though? Is it countryside workshop loud or quiet enough for an apartment for daytime use?
It’s quiet enough for apartment nighttime use! I use it at 3am and have attached houses either side. It’s incredibly quiet. A slight hum. When you engage the lead screw it’s a bit louder. Grease the gears to quiet them down
WOW. Man your good. Do you have and engineering degree. You say this is a hobby, what is your full time job. I love your videos. Thanks
Thanks for the kind words, I have no degrees 🤣 RUclips is quickly becoming my full time job haha.
@@VintageEngineRepairs Shows what a degree is worth...
What kinda watch do you have on your wrist that you can get it in the wash water & is it still working? What useful features does it have?
It’s a rangeman 9400. I am so hard on my watches and the g/shocks are the only ones that hold up. I like this one as the stop watch function can be actioned from any menus you’re in with a single press to start and stop :)
Purchased this exact lathe 4 years ago and gave it the basket case treatment I'd normally use for a clapped out 50 year old motorcycle ...
Required a total strip and rebuild to be usable as I think every scrap casting & component was inserted as some psychological testing during Covid to see if myself and many other victims would crack .
U-tube has many victims of this cruel joke and I did everything and more to make mine work .
The jokes on Vevor cause I'm still sane and me lathes an absolute corker ( now )
I also know too much about cheap mini lathes so there's that .
I noticed they sent you one ; and still didn't get it right .
You didn't even find the entrance to the rabbit hole one gets sucked into cuzzy ...
LOL this is so funny I was laughing as I read it. Thanks for sharing!
It occurs to me that anyone who's put off by the thought of having to fettle and adjust a new bit of workshop equipment might not have what it takes to be a proper home machinist [I'm kidding]. Rather than spending a fortune and expecting everything to be perfect, I think that fiddling about and improving stuff is half the fun of it!
My own preference was never to buy new (I couldn't afford anything decent, anyway) but to get hold of something old and worn that was in need of restoration. I remember getting an ancient Myford - it took me over 6 months to revive it, but it was time well spent.
I liked the old-school approach to construction - brass, steel, bronze and cast iron instead of the aluminium, nylon and plastic that goes into most modern low-cost machines.
I can undertand the desire to have something brand new, though.
The only piece of vital equipment in my workshop that was new was the kettle... ☕👀 Cheers!
Thanks for sharing 👍
I have the Harbor Freight version of this lathe. The parallelism of the ways to the spindle axis is almost perfect - within a few thousands in six inches.
Anything worse should be totally unacceptable and a clue that the manufacturer took little interest in their quality control and respect for their customers. This “feature” is the most important parameter in a metal lathe and should be considered an indicator of the overall quality of their products.
Thanks for sharing
venor $923.00
E/bay $599.00
make your own using a drill bench press $140 3 jaw chuck $60 + this be handy > compound table $50 temu
steel & aluminum weeks mucking about @@
6W 20000RPM Upgraded Mini Metal Lathe Machine Motorized Metalworking DIY Tool - $250.00 this is small only for hobby parts brass aliminium etc
Thanks for watching
Great rundown of the goods and bads and improvements. Have you tried turning some metal held between the chuck and tailstock centre and checking for taper? Shimming your headstock like you did may have overcome one problem but may have introduced another one if the tailstock is not adjustable sideways (maybe it is, can't see).
Hey! Thanks for the kind words! Yes I have done, it’s still very good (relatively) it’s a hobbyist lathe of course! About 0.005mm per cm with tail stock!
Well, that would be interresting to actually make the bolt thread with the lathe.
Wonder if you can do it (and what thread range are allowed - both metric and imperial) on this machine ?
You can and I have, yes :)
COOL !
Glad you enjoyed it!
can you 3d print gears to make custom pitch threads? like 0.75 pitch?
Absolutely I don’t see why not?
The thing really missing from these mini lathes, is a threading dial.
Yes, you can thread without a threading dial, but it's a real PITA.
It is! I agree 👍
Mine had a threading dial.
@@HarryJarrell Mine also came with one but I don't bother using it, I find it's faster to just reverse the motor and drive it back to the start. But most of the time I'm not cutting more than about an inch or 2 of thread.
I just want to thread some barrels. But I don't know what I would do with it after that? But I think I would find something that seems loose and needs faced.
I haven’t stopped making things on mine 🤣
Yep. It will cut brass no problem. But how about steel?
Yes very well! You can’t cut really deep cuts, but I have happily made tooling from hardened steels like punches as well as from 1045
@eEngineRepairs I know it will. I cut lots of it on mine. It's just that you did not show it, and it's the most interesting part.
Ah I see, gotcha, thanks for the feedback, you’re quite right, it would have been good to cut steels on camera for people to see 👍
The amount of slop is alarming, but like a lot of things that come out of China, if you have the skills to rectify the mistakes, you can make it useful. Even so, I’d prefer something like a Denford, bought used from a college that doesn't want it any more.
Even an expensive lathe require regular gib adjustment
Can you detail how you adjusted the headstock ? Thanks
Yep, just take the 4 bolts off, place the feeler gauge on the V in the side you want to move the head stock away from. Tighten down, machine a length, measure and re-adjust.
@@VintageEngineRepairs OK, but after I tightened the screws, how the heck do I get the feeler gauge out?
@@ulbed You don't. Buy some shim stock and just leave it in there.
I would add a bit of grease on them gears
I just used oil, but I bet grease would work a treat.
@@VintageEngineRepairsTom Chainsaw bar oil works great it sticks to the gears better
As much stuff as I bought from VEVOR
can't understand why aren't they reached out to me about one of these Little lathe.
Reach out to them :)
Doesn't shimming the headstock make it sit higher above the V way?
Marginally, I adjusted the tail stock to match.
it doesnt have a feed feature to cut the threads using the lathe instead of using a dye?
Yes it does, the lead screw and gears
Great video! But if you decide to order one of these LATHES do not order it with NYLON GEARS, I dont care how strong the nylon gears will be they will wear faster than the metal gears ORDER the lathe with METAL GEARS. ALSO i believe the company still offers the option of 220volt or 110volt IS that you show decide what will be the immediate advantage and disadvantages of the voltage you will require
The gears are quiet and hold up well for many years. I don’t see them as an issue.
How did you shim the head stock? I have the same problem. Mounting to a solid base and shimming that helped but still have some taper
Just use feeler gauges :)
I wonder if you could make metal replacement gears on this lathe to replace the plastic ones that come with the kit. ?
I’m sure someone could, but I’d just buy them, they’re not expensive :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs I noticed the more expensive Vevor lathes had metal gears.
@@dnomyarnostaw Get the 8x machine instead of the smaller 7x for not much more money. Then, it has no drive gears, all belt driven. Metal change gears for the lead screw are unnecessary, I use 3d printed ones and have no problem.
Ahh I was hopeful you were going to single point thread the bolt.
Sorry I didnt! Hope you enjoyed it anyway :)
I started out with a mini lathe many years ago, then I slowly graduated from that to a 9x19 and then a full-sized gunsmithing lathe. (same with the mini mill. I went to a CNCmill)
Anyway, I sold my full sized machines thinking I'd never need them again after retiring from the work force. Boy was I wrong.
Now I'm thinking of buying another Mini Lathe and I was wondering. On my larger lathes they had a dial indicator that would spin around on a circular gauge which indicated the exact time in which to engage the half-nut when cutting threads.
I don't see any kind of dial on these Vevor mini lathes that would indicate when to engage the half-nut when cutting threads.
How does one time the engagement of the half-nut without these indicator dials in place?
Hey! No there isn’t that dial, the way to cut threads in this case is to never disengage the half nut.
There is likely a better way, but I will take a pass, when I get to the end of the threads, stop the machine, turn out the cross slide, set the machine in reverse, start the machine, set it in forward, turn the cross slide in to where it was and then slightly deeper and then repeat. It’s annoying, but with some practise it’s easy.
This is a very ubiquitous lathe. Thousands exist and there's plenty of support. I use mine to make pins, washers, sleeves and bushings for repair and general use (nothing complex). It's limitation is its, surprise, size and spindle torque. But for a small workspace, it's ideal.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
Can you do standard threads
You’ll have to check with Vevor, I presume the lathes they sell in USA will me standard, metric countries will be metric
I wish could get one I'm trying to restore old farm equipment some parts are hard to find or cost to much to get someone to make or repair on SS income
Yeah it is a handy tool!!
Would this be got enough to do mild steel? I got a feeling it wouldn't be.
Yes it is, lots of videos on cutting steel
does it work for normal steel ?
Yes! I have turned a bunch of steel :) use carbide.
good video.
Thank you.
why did you use the die to cut the external threads instead of the lead screw?
Because it was much quicker. I’d use the lead screw if I wanted a unique diameter piece threaded
gotcha @@VintageEngineRepairs
Would this be ok for building bikes and repairing+ restoring them?
It all depends on the size of parts you need :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs they’re pretty small
Thanks for the info, would it be possible to turn a 67mm piston diameter down to 65.90 with this lathe 🤔
Yes :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs
That's great, thank you, very much, you're a champ have a great day bro 👍
You too! What piston is that from and what’s it going in?!
@@VintageEngineRepairs
It's from a Kipor IG2600 generator, i can't get a replacement piston anywhere, no one makes pistons that are 65.99, but I get a 67mm piston from AliExpress, I did try a 65.5mm piston but it was a few thouw too small...I've ordered 66mm piston ring so I'm hoping they'll fit my original piston,
Ah awesome! Interesting project :)
Can that make watch screws?
Absolutely!
How in the world do you adjust the cross slide by ajdusting the top slide travel???!!!!
You’ve lost me mate?
@@VintageEngineRepairs The most noticeable is the cross slide play, but you adjust the top slide. On the second take I saw the play in the top slide too, but not nearly as big as in the cross slide.
Oh! Yea I did do it, just not on camera, tricky to get the camera in there :)
You should srcew the lathe to the table.
That’s good advise, I’m not set on its final place yet though.
that spring is to stop you leaving the chuck key in before you start. the hole in your head will thank you 😆
So so true 😂👍🏻
can one of these cut 316 stainless steel ?
Yep! Lots of videos online of it cutting many different stainless steels!
Anyone know where I can get spare parts for mine? The controller pcb stopped working. I politely emailed Vevor to ask where to buy spares and never replied. :(
Just google PCB board Chinese mini lathe and you’ll see they’re everywhere. It’s very generic. Just match it up. :)
Hi bro. Isn’t 650w not enough power?
It’s got a great little motor 👍
Thread a bar, bend it, make it a simple locking lever for your slide lock? If you cut a lot of threads this guy has a nice idea of a simple home made aid for that. Remember that tool post can hold some workpieces while the chuck holds a slot drill or end mill, then you have a simple milling machine, maybe cutting keyways or simple milling cuts. :)
Spot on mate :) yes I have done some shaping with the lathe! I made some awesome cheese head and fillister head bolts that way :) cuts a perfect slot!
why didnt you use the lathe to cut the threads?
You can! Though it’s much more time consuming changing gears and the process. For standard threads I recommend using taps and dies if you have them on hand. My opinion is that cutting threads is best kept for non standard sizes.
i see, thank you for your answer@@VintageEngineRepairs
How about those mini lathes - those going for about $100 - $250. The so-called jeweler's lathes.Those look pretty interesting.
They could be good fun! I haven’t tried one
@@VintageEngineRepairs I'm almost tempted
Damn, appears to be double the price now.
Hey! I just checked, still circa 900 AUD which in usd is about 450/500? Are you sure you’re not on the Australia website haha?
Good video for general information. but unfortunately Some very bad practices. Get many metal splinters and burrs in your fingers ?
Na not one.
how large Is that main bearing thru hole on the opposite side where gearbox is... will the butt of a cue stick pass through it?
Hey, I believe it’s 20mm / just under an inch in diameter mate 👍
@@VintageEngineRepairs Thank you!! I think that might be a bit too small just going by fact that Taig 5c headstock is 1.77 in
You are running a taper partially because you have that part out too far. Also did you indicate the initial piece in before you even started cutting?
Hey :) thanks for the feedback, I tried different stick out multiple times and it was the same. After the correction it’s now spot on :)