I looked hard at those but passed mainly because of the emission systems requirements on the larger tractor vs the 574. It sure is a sweet machine though from what I saw of it.
I've got them on my LS. They're on a very short list for the TYM as well. I just wanted to make sure there's no interference with the backhoe attachment (sub frame BY85). It's not here quite yet.
I went with the TYM 574 for simplicity after running into wiring harness / sensor errors on my LS XR4145 open ROPS. The vastly reduced amount of engine sensors and the lack of an ECU, coupled with the approx 10 extra horsepower, sturdier build, increased lift capacities, and of course the air-conditioned and heated cab sealed the deal. I'd have gotten a cab version of the 4145 had I been able to afford it at the time. Check out Stoney Ridge Farms and Tony's Tractor Adventures for some more info on these tractors. Give us updates and let us know what you decide to do!
both great choices, i had a 2021 nx4510 , now i have 2022 t494 tym it is same as t574 but w no turbo. as long as you are not at high alt. and dont need the xtra 6hp go with the t494 for the most simple tractor made. all are great choices.
add a cutting edge to bucket for $2-250 it makes a huge difference peeling sod. t494-t574 is 6hp or so difference. high alt. go w 574 2000ft and lower go with t494 for most simple tractor made
I have a 72" bucket on another tractor with an EA tooth bar that's been fabulous so far. I may just switch out buckets and keep the old one when I sell the old tractor this coming Spring.
To change KmH to MPH I believe I just held the Info button down for like 5 or 10 seconds. Question for you though... I also have the TYM 574 cab and like yours in the video I was getting near the Minimum on the radiator coolant tank. Problem is, the fluid they use is some strawberry fluid called HD Expert EXTREME Extended Life Diesel and searching online and every auto parts store around, Nobody carries the stuff. I asked my dealer and they said just add some coolant from Tractor supply, but when I bought it, it was Yellow, so before I added it... I called the TYM Texas dealer that my dealer picked the tractor up from. That dealership/distrubution center sent me the info on the HD Expert coolant but said DO NOT mix colors. Their suggestion was I drain the coolant from my TYM 574 tractor with only 15 hrs because I can't buy the same coolant anywhere nearby. They said do not mix with Red or other colors. So I'm stuck trying to find a compatible coolant. So I want to know is... What coolant are you going to use in your tractor since your tank is near the minimum mark? Thanks!
I must admit that I am not an expert here and any advice I have isn't backed up by anything but "gumption". I've seen and heard the numerous posts that say "don't mix colors" but I have no idea if that is simply the internet "experts" run amuck or if there's actually science involved in that advice. I will therefore refrain from endorsing one method over another. However, once I hit the 50 hour mark I will change out ALL of the fluids just so I know what's in the tractor. I have a regional TYM maintenance rep that lives about 10 minutes away from me and is my "dealer support" mechanic for warranty work. I'll check with him to see what meets TYM specs to be certain and that's what I will go with for all fluid, etc suggestions. My suggestion for you would be to get something definitive from your dealer and go with whatever they say - just in case you need warranty work in the future. Whatever you do, don't go with the "internet expert" advice. It may be coming from some kid in pajamas that knows a little bit of theory and absolutely nothing of reality.
Must use red gm/toyota fluid. The colors just help identify the main ingredient. You can also use the yellow coolant to mix if you want. If it’s only a little low I’d just add water then test it to make sure it goes cold enough. Water actually cools better than coolant.
Ok folks, I was talking with my TYM regional maintenance friend this week and let him know I was going to be doing the 50 hour on our 574. He HIGHLY recommended that I also drain and flush out the coolant system and refill it with at least a 50/50 mix of a green antifreeze/coolant from a local auto parts store. He also said you could add a wetting agent if you wanted to help keep things cooler. Evidently the only flaw with the kukje as set up on the TYM is the possibility of cracked heads IF you don't pay attention to your engine temps. I'll talk about this in our upcoming 50 hour service video. The 50 hour is pretty straight forward though. Exchange ALL fluids and filters, check torques on everything (and use some Torque Stripe), clean and grease everything, etc. The iron used in any foreign manufactured machine parts (and yes, that includes the so called "Made in America" name brands) is not as high of a quality as American stuff. Therefore, drain and flush and change ALL FLUIDS AND FILTERS. I'll have a 50 hour maintenance video posted within a couple of weeks and hopefully I can get him over here to give us some pointers on what specifically to watch out for. All of that sounds bad but it's not. I love this machine. I'd pick it every day and twice on Sunday over paying extra thousands of dollars for a brand just because of the name because they're pretty much all built with foreign made parts these days.
I like your new TYM574. Can you please do a video of the EGR cooler? I would like to see how the EGR comes off the exhaust Pipe and how it is routed to the intake/ turbo. Thanks for sharing.
I'll pop the hood and make a good video of the entire engine. You'll see that it's pretty mechanical in nature and does not have an ECU or a humongous electrical harness. No common fuel rail, etc etc etc. As simple an engine as you can get in a modern day 26+ HP compact tractor. Their larger 65 HP tractors do have the ECU's and associated harness.
@@hiddenacresoutdoors-tracto1510 Thanks for the reply. I was doing a little more research and found out that they do not have an EGR Cooler on them. That makes that tractor even more desirable. I will probably buy a new tractor in the next few years. I like the TYM574. I will be looking forward to the video.
@@fixitjohn I'll still make the video. So far I haven't seen much if anything that I would change or modify. Like I said, the lack of ECU's and wiring harnesses is the reason I went with this tractor vs the 65HP version. It's a really simple engine for even backyard mechanics to work on if needed.
Excellent point. First thing I did was check ALL of the bolts and then I put torque stripe across all of the wheel bolts (and some others) to see when they slip without having to physically check the torques. I saw a wee bit of play yesterday while using the bucket so I'll definitely check torques and remark as necessary before using it again. It's a heckuva upgrade from my XR4145. Much heavier machine. Now to get the BY85 backhoe for it.
@@Tonnsfabrication That would be awesome excepting the fact that the neighbor has one of those and they're like 5x the money of a backhoe attachment. I'd love to have a mini ex but if did that I might have to worry about another kind of ex! 🤣
Great video. Thank you. In your video I see you have a 5th wheel camper. I own a trailer park and I am seriously considering the same, 574 but I don't know if it will lift my 5th wheel trailers for moving them around the park. Is there any way possible you could please let me see you lifting the camper with your bucket please?
I'm out of town at the moment but it would all obviously depend on the pin weight of the camper. The bucket lift capacity is 2790 pounds and a breakout force at ground level of over 5000 pounds. Max lift height is just over 100 inches so I don't think there'd be any problems. It's a well built FEL and beefy. I honestly don't believe my wife would be very happy with me experimenting on her camper with my tractor though!
@@hiddenacresoutdoors-tracto1510 thank you for your reply. What does breakout force mean? Sorry, I don't mean move it, I just want to know if it will lift it off the ground. I figure if it lifts it off the ground then it should have no issue moving it. I do understand though so please thank your wife for me:)
Definition of Tractor Loader Breakout force View my Photos auerbach Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 2168 West of Toronto TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster View my Photos Pics 2008-06-17 154664 Casually, with your bucket bottom flat on the ground, you drive it as far as it will go into a pile of, say, gravel. You try to lift but it won't, so you rev up and curl. Will that break the load free (after which you can reverse a bit and try raising?) That depends on your breakout force. Technically (ISO or International Standards Org.), it's the maximum upward force in kN measured 100mm (or ft/lbs and 4") aft of the cutting edge, achieved by the bucket cylinder(s), that is, the curl function, or in geometric terms the rolling moment around the bucket hinge. The machine must be on a hard level surface, bucket bottom within 25mm (1") of the ground, standard tires with standard pressure, a block under the front axle to keep the pivot geometry the same, revs not to exceed redline, no extra weights or tiedowns on the rear. (If and when the rear lifts, that defines the breakout force.) If that datum is important to you, try to find out if the company used the ISO procedure, but it's associated with dedicated loaders, as opposed to a tractor on which you later mount someone else's FEL. Also, the figures are for a new machine, and as the pump, cylinders, and engine get tired, the force declines a bit. On the other hand, in use, the front squats, increasing the force. ....
It is initially unless you hold your mouth just right. You don't want to force it though. I found that by moving slight forward or backward it will generally slip right into another range without forcing anything. Pretty much the same with engaging or disengaging the 4 wheel drive. In that case just turning the steering wheel right or left will allow it to slip into and out of 4wd easily with the lever. We'll see how it does after a hundred hours or so when it's broken in a bit.
Do the back vents around the seat blow air in your cab? My front vents blow air and the back vents do not. When I asked the dealer about it, they said that none of the vents in the rear (all the ones around your head) blow air. They are just for sucking air in to create the recirculation of the air in the cab. Is this the case with yours or was I lied to?
@@hiddenacresoutdoors-tracto1510 thank you for this reply as well. I only ask because a cab would be nice except for when I'm moving trailers and I need to communicate with my spotters. I wouldn't want to have to open and close the doors and so I'm hoping they are easily removable. Thank you again.
Full specs off of the TYM website are listed in the description. Lift capacity 2790 lb (1266 kgf) Breakout force at ground level, pivot points 5316 lb (2411 kgf) Bucket rollback force at ground line 4356 lb (1976 kgf) PTO 44.7 hp
I don't have one as of yet but from what I've seen, they really aren't all that expensive. $150 to $200 should cover it I'd think. Perhaps folks that have one will chime in.
Not really. A lot of that was the wipers and the rain. I did have the AC running also. Plus it was the iPhone onboard mic. It's not quiet like riding in a car but it's quiet enough to where you don't need earplugs. You won't be able to really hear the radio unless you do some upgrades. I normally just have my air pods in linked to my phone.
Keep the RPMs up and the engine will never go through a regen cycle because higher RPMs on these engines burn off the specific pollutants that a regen cycle burns off. The required detection never sees those specific pollutants so it never runs a regen cycle.
Exactly. I think most regen issues are folks running them at lower RPMs to save diesel, reduce sound levels, etc. After warmup the lowest I ever run it (for doing light work) is about 2000 RPM. I don't believe it needs to run WOT all the time though.
I got a 654 tym got two hundred hours on it works great
I looked hard at those but passed mainly because of the emission systems requirements on the larger tractor vs the 574. It sure is a sweet machine though from what I saw of it.
look into pats easy change , it works on everything. quick hitch gets in the way of hooking up pto. i love my 494
I've got them on my LS. They're on a very short list for the TYM as well. I just wanted to make sure there's no interference with the backhoe attachment (sub frame BY85). It's not here quite yet.
The TYM 574 open ROPS is a tractor I am seriously considering, along with the Kioti NS5510. I really like the simplicity of the TYM.
I went with the TYM 574 for simplicity after running into wiring harness / sensor errors on my LS XR4145 open ROPS. The vastly reduced amount of engine sensors and the lack of an ECU, coupled with the approx 10 extra horsepower, sturdier build, increased lift capacities, and of course the air-conditioned and heated cab sealed the deal. I'd have gotten a cab version of the 4145 had I been able to afford it at the time. Check out Stoney Ridge Farms and Tony's Tractor Adventures for some more info on these tractors. Give us updates and let us know what you decide to do!
both great choices, i had a 2021 nx4510 , now i have 2022 t494 tym it is same as t574 but w no turbo. as long as you are not at high alt. and dont need the xtra 6hp go with the t494 for the most simple tractor made. all are great choices.
No ECU is fantastic
add a cutting edge to bucket for $2-250 it makes a huge difference peeling sod. t494-t574 is 6hp or so difference. high alt. go w 574 2000ft and lower go with t494 for most simple tractor made
I have a 72" bucket on another tractor with an EA tooth bar that's been fabulous so far. I may just switch out buckets and keep the old one when I sell the old tractor this coming Spring.
To change KmH to MPH I believe I just held the Info button down for like 5 or 10 seconds.
Question for you though... I also have the TYM 574 cab and like yours in the video I was getting near the Minimum on the radiator coolant tank. Problem is, the fluid they use is some strawberry fluid called HD Expert EXTREME Extended Life Diesel and searching online and every auto parts store around, Nobody carries the stuff.
I asked my dealer and they said just add some coolant from Tractor supply, but when I bought it, it was Yellow, so before I added it... I called the TYM Texas dealer that my dealer picked the tractor up from. That dealership/distrubution center sent me the info on the HD Expert coolant but said DO NOT mix colors. Their suggestion was I drain the coolant from my TYM 574 tractor with only 15 hrs because I can't buy the same coolant anywhere nearby. They said do not mix with Red or other colors.
So I'm stuck trying to find a compatible coolant.
So I want to know is... What coolant are you going to use in your tractor since your tank is near the minimum mark?
Thanks!
I must admit that I am not an expert here and any advice I have isn't backed up by anything but "gumption". I've seen and heard the numerous posts that say "don't mix colors" but I have no idea if that is simply the internet "experts" run amuck or if there's actually science involved in that advice. I will therefore refrain from endorsing one method over another. However, once I hit the 50 hour mark I will change out ALL of the fluids just so I know what's in the tractor. I have a regional TYM maintenance rep that lives about 10 minutes away from me and is my "dealer support" mechanic for warranty work. I'll check with him to see what meets TYM specs to be certain and that's what I will go with for all fluid, etc suggestions. My suggestion for you would be to get something definitive from your dealer and go with whatever they say - just in case you need warranty work in the future. Whatever you do, don't go with the "internet expert" advice. It may be coming from some kid in pajamas that knows a little bit of theory and absolutely nothing of reality.
Must use red gm/toyota fluid. The colors just help identify the main ingredient. You can also use the yellow coolant to mix if you want. If it’s only a little low I’d just add water then test it to make sure it goes cold enough. Water actually cools better than coolant.
Ok folks, I was talking with my TYM regional maintenance friend this week and let him know I was going to be doing the 50 hour on our 574. He HIGHLY recommended that I also drain and flush out the coolant system and refill it with at least a 50/50 mix of a green antifreeze/coolant from a local auto parts store. He also said you could add a wetting agent if you wanted to help keep things cooler. Evidently the only flaw with the kukje as set up on the TYM is the possibility of cracked heads IF you don't pay attention to your engine temps. I'll talk about this in our upcoming 50 hour service video. The 50 hour is pretty straight forward though. Exchange ALL fluids and filters, check torques on everything (and use some Torque Stripe), clean and grease everything, etc. The iron used in any foreign manufactured machine parts (and yes, that includes the so called "Made in America" name brands) is not as high of a quality as American stuff. Therefore, drain and flush and change ALL FLUIDS AND FILTERS. I'll have a 50 hour maintenance video posted within a couple of weeks and hopefully I can get him over here to give us some pointers on what specifically to watch out for. All of that sounds bad but it's not. I love this machine. I'd pick it every day and twice on Sunday over paying extra thousands of dollars for a brand just because of the name because they're pretty much all built with foreign made parts these days.
I like your new TYM574. Can you please do a video of the EGR cooler? I would like to see how the EGR comes off the exhaust Pipe and how it is routed to the intake/ turbo. Thanks for sharing.
I'll pop the hood and make a good video of the entire engine. You'll see that it's pretty mechanical in nature and does not have an ECU or a humongous electrical harness. No common fuel rail, etc etc etc. As simple an engine as you can get in a modern day 26+ HP compact tractor. Their larger 65 HP tractors do have the ECU's and associated harness.
@@hiddenacresoutdoors-tracto1510 Thanks for the reply. I was doing a little more research and found out that they do not have an EGR Cooler on them. That makes that tractor even more desirable. I will probably buy a new tractor in the next few years. I like the TYM574. I will be looking forward to the video.
@@fixitjohn I'll still make the video. So far I haven't seen much if anything that I would change or modify. Like I said, the lack of ECU's and wiring harnesses is the reason I went with this tractor vs the 65HP version. It's a really simple engine for even backyard mechanics to work on if needed.
I shot the video yesterday. I'll get it posted in the next day or so. Nothing fancy but maybe it'll help.
@@hiddenacresoutdoors-tracto1510 Thank you for making the video. I look forward to seeing it.
Put headlights on bright press info and hold till km changes mph
Thanks. I finally had my TYM guy send me a screenshot of the process.
Make sure to check all the loader bolts, they def come loose after first few uses.
Excellent point. First thing I did was check ALL of the bolts and then I put torque stripe across all of the wheel bolts (and some others) to see when they slip without having to physically check the torques. I saw a wee bit of play yesterday while using the bucket so I'll definitely check torques and remark as necessary before using it again. It's a heckuva upgrade from my XR4145. Much heavier machine. Now to get the BY85 backhoe for it.
@@hiddenacresoutdoors-tracto1510 i’d put that money towards an excavator if it was possible.
@@Tonnsfabrication That would be awesome excepting the fact that the neighbor has one of those and they're like 5x the money of a backhoe attachment. I'd love to have a mini ex but if did that I might have to worry about another kind of ex! 🤣
I wish!
Great video. Thank you.
In your video I see you have a 5th wheel camper. I own a trailer park and I am seriously considering the same, 574 but I don't know if it will lift my 5th wheel trailers for moving them around the park.
Is there any way possible you could please let me see you lifting the camper with your bucket please?
I'm out of town at the moment but it would all obviously depend on the pin weight of the camper. The bucket lift capacity is 2790 pounds and a breakout force at ground level of over 5000 pounds. Max lift height is just over 100 inches so I don't think there'd be any problems. It's a well built FEL and beefy. I honestly don't believe my wife would be very happy with me experimenting on her camper with my tractor though!
@@hiddenacresoutdoors-tracto1510 thank you for your reply. What does breakout force mean? Sorry, I don't mean move it, I just want to know if it will lift it off the ground. I figure if it lifts it off the ground then it should have no issue moving it. I do understand though so please thank your wife for me:)
Definition of Tractor Loader Breakout force
View my Photos
auerbach
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2168 West of Toronto
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster View my Photos Pics
2008-06-17 154664
Casually, with your bucket bottom flat on the ground, you drive it as far as it will go into a pile of, say, gravel. You try to lift but it won't, so you rev up and curl. Will that break the load free (after which you can reverse a bit and try raising?) That depends on your breakout force.
Technically (ISO or International Standards Org.), it's the maximum upward force in kN measured 100mm (or ft/lbs and 4") aft of the cutting edge, achieved by the bucket cylinder(s), that is, the curl function, or in geometric terms the rolling moment around the bucket hinge. The machine must be on a hard level surface, bucket bottom within 25mm (1") of the ground, standard tires with standard pressure, a block under the front axle to keep the pivot geometry the same, revs not to exceed redline, no extra weights or tiedowns on the rear. (If and when the rear lifts, that defines the breakout force.)
If that datum is important to you, try to find out if the company used the ISO procedure, but it's associated with dedicated loaders, as opposed to a tractor on which you later mount someone else's FEL. Also, the figures are for a new machine, and as the pump, cylinders, and engine get tired, the force declines a bit. On the other hand, in use, the front squats, increasing the force. ....
The above is about the best technical definition I found.
@@hiddenacresoutdoors-tracto1510 thank you
Transmission hard to shift between ranges? Heard that is common on these
It is initially unless you hold your mouth just right. You don't want to force it though. I found that by moving slight forward or backward it will generally slip right into another range without forcing anything. Pretty much the same with engaging or disengaging the 4 wheel drive. In that case just turning the steering wheel right or left will allow it to slip into and out of 4wd easily with the lever. We'll see how it does after a hundred hours or so when it's broken in a bit.
Do the back vents around the seat blow air in your cab? My front vents blow air and the back vents do not. When I asked the dealer about it, they said that none of the vents in the rear (all the ones around your head) blow air. They are just for sucking air in to create the recirculation of the air in the cab. Is this the case with yours or was I lied to?
The back vents are the air intake recirculation vents. There's also an AC filter you should check and clean periodically. Top back rear of the cab.
Also, do the doors come off of the cab fairly easily? Thank you.
To be honest I've never thought about taking them off so I haven't looked to see how easy it would be.
@@hiddenacresoutdoors-tracto1510 thank you for this reply as well. I only ask because a cab would be nice except for when I'm moving trailers and I need to communicate with my spotters. I wouldn't want to have to open and close the doors and so I'm hoping they are easily removable.
Thank you again.
The doors have a pneumatic rod that will hold them open. I drive it sometimes like that. Plus the side windows and the rear window also open.
How good is the AC?
I haven't gotten hot as of yet. I'll let you know when August comes. So far I haven't had to turn it to max cold either.
Whats the lift capacity of the front loader and rear pto HP
Full specs off of the TYM website are listed in the description.
Lift capacity 2790 lb (1266 kgf)
Breakout force at ground level, pivot points 5316 lb (2411 kgf)
Bucket rollback force at ground line 4356 lb (1976 kgf)
PTO 44.7 hp
how much does the remote top link cost ?
I don't have one as of yet but from what I've seen, they really aren't all that expensive. $150 to $200 should cover it I'd think. Perhaps folks that have one will chime in.
do you want a service manual for your machine?
I'd love one. Our email is hiddenacresnc@gmail.com
Sounds like it might be noisy inside the cab.
Not really. A lot of that was the wipers and the rain. I did have the AC running also. Plus it was the iPhone onboard mic. It's not quiet like riding in a car but it's quiet enough to where you don't need earplugs. You won't be able to really hear the radio unless you do some upgrades. I normally just have my air pods in linked to my phone.
@@hiddenacresoutdoors-tracto1510 That's what I've heard, you can't really hear the radio.
That's very true. The AirPods work well. I don't use noise cancelling because I want to hear what the tractor is saying to me.
Keep the RPMs up and the engine will never go through a regen cycle because higher RPMs on these engines burn off the specific pollutants that a regen cycle burns off. The required detection never sees those specific pollutants so it never runs a regen cycle.
Exactly. I think most regen issues are folks running them at lower RPMs to save diesel, reduce sound levels, etc. After warmup the lowest I ever run it (for doing light work) is about 2000 RPM. I don't believe it needs to run WOT all the time though.
get a service manual,your dealer should email you one free..if not i can send you one. rich
I'll check with them or you can forward one to our channel email hiddenacresnc@gmail.com Thanks!