ECU reprogram - Testing a Projecta Voltage stabiliser Ft.Tool Girl Jade

For decades now cars, motorcycles & most other types of vehicles have at least one ECU - some have many, all controlling certain functions on the vehicle.
Engine tuning, software updates. patches & ECU replacement all involve establishing a robust communication link between the component & laptop.
Fluctuating voltage is a catalyst for problems, often causing communication dropouts which in turn corrupt uploading files & at the very least you have to start all over again though on some motorcycles a loss of communication during file upload can render the ECU junk!
To prevent these issues a mains powered Voltage Stabiliser is used. These devices act a little like a battery charger only much, much smarter, giving you the option of setting desired loom voltage & once activated, the device monitors loom voltage and quickly increases or decreases it's output to ensure a steady, smooth voltage supply to the ECU.
So, I was curious to see just how good this 'Projecta' voltage stabiliser performs.......time to hook up the PicoScope...
Andy Mechanic

[@andrewwilson8317]

Nice to see you using my favourite bit of kit,the pico scope. For power supply when testing I use a Ctek mxs27000 and it has been absolutely faultless in service and operation. Can't speak high enough of the quality of the product.

[@AndyMechanic]

Cheers Andrew. If you get a chance would you do a similar test on your Voltage Stabiliser - I'm really interested to compare devices. Especially looking at the data that I cover in the 2nd video on this - will be live on the channel in the next couple of days.
Cheers
Andy

[@RustyWells2]

We love you Jade ❤️💖💕💝💘💗💓💞💙🧡💜💚❣️💛😘

[@diagrep4826]

Order of events:
1) See Jade in thumbnail 2) Open vid 3) Like 4) Watch

[@AndyMechanic]

Classic!

[@qlddave]

Gday Andy, Dave again. I forgot to mention I also do Projecta. Just watched your video. I'll be contacting Projecta/Narva directly on Monday. That result sucked

[@AndyMechanic]

Sure did Dave. I'm doing more tests today so 2nd video coming soon....thanks for your input.
I'll be in touch :-)

[@ServiceComputers]

I don't know if "benching" the ECU (that is, removing it from the vehicle system) or supplying the ECU with it's own dedicated power is possible in all circumstances, but I'd connect it directly to what in the electronics industry is know as a Constant Voltage Regulated/Switching Power Supply.
Something like the MJF-4128 would cost in the neighborhood of $125 NZD (plus shipping & taxes, of course) provided 28A would fit the bill.
Even a large 35A regulated power supply should be under $250 NZGD.

[@simonrawle7885]

will a smart charger not have done the same as that unit did on this test ? some nice clean waveforms to

[@AndyMechanic]

Hi Simon, I don't think a smart charger has the capacity available to compensate for up to a 70 amp draw unfortunately.
I'm just about to start a filming a 2nd video on this to capture more data with the PicoScope - a request of the NZ importers - they seem a little concerned (like me!).
Video should be up in the next day or so...
Cheers Andy

[@simonrawle7885]

Andy Mechanic I've never done any. Programing on bike but by you wanting the 70 amps I guess you need to turn the starter as some point

[@AndyMechanic]

Yes, maybe. Though this unit is designed for use on cars too and a 70 amp draw on a car can occur even without an engine crank. I was just replicating that size draw to see how the 'tool' would react etc...
Watch this space!
Cheers Andy

[@johndunlop823]

The voltage difference between what the stabilizer is set to and what is being measured at the battery terminals is due to voltage drop in the connecting leads.
The stabilizer only knows what it's internal voltage is. When the starter motor load is applied, the stabilizer is doing all the work, as the battery was at 13.4v before the stabilizer was connected and didn't have enough time to charge much more.
Shortly after connecting the stabiliser to the battery, the terminal voltage of the battery would aproach the stabilizer's output voltage and the load on the stabilizer decreases to a few amperes. The voltage drop across the length of the stabiliser connecting leads drops along with the amps.
The reason the voltage recovers a bit after the load is applied is because the starting current of the starter motor is much greater than the cranking current. When the voltage is first applied the motor is a resistor. As it spins up it generates an opposing internal voltage and the difference between the applied voltage and the internally generated voltage divided by the resistance of the motor determines the current draw.
Ohms law. Voltage equals amps multiplied by resistance.

[@johndunlop823]

Another variable is the temperature of the battery which increases once a load is applied. A battery at 35 degrees will maintain its terminal voltage under load better than a battery at 25 degrees. At 25 degrees C a battery can deliver 20% more cold cranking amps than the same battery at 0 degrees C.

[@Z71Ranger]

Did I hear you say you had the unit set to 1.8 amps... Maybe that was the problem with it not maintaining 14.0 volts when starting the Bike...Didn't you say you could up the amps to 70 amps...