There's a third possibility. Manufacturers tend to coil cables that are too long in a tight radius. Use a fiber optic camera to look inside the underbelly. If you see that the cable has a tight radius, cut and shorten it or re-route it for less friction.
Water. I tell customers to fill their tank half way before using it. Personally, I drain my tank then use my shower hose to add water with the tank valve open just to help push those floater down. Once drained I fill again to halfway. No issues as of yet. I had a customer that would keep their grey tank open while draining the black tank. Complained of a smell from the sink. Was a good chuckle while educating the customer.
Good info Todd. As a profesional Bicycle mechanic I was aware about cable and what to use and not. I agree with you about not to use oil on the cables. I always enjoy your tech tips.
I got it open admit it was tight, but got it then all the stuff is clear and gone, and water clean. sprayed the valve with silicone spray really well and will continue to spray if you tell me ok thats what i did and it ran very well thanks for your video really valuable it is closed all the way out and the wand did the job well
Hey Todd, love the videos and have learned a lot. I have an in-line Valtera bladex black tank valve under our toy hauler and I can hardly open/close it. I don't see a way to access the inside of the valve without taking the pipes apart. If flushing the black tank doesn't remove what is blocking the valve, is it ok to run a black tank hose from the exit opening and try to thread it and flush that way?
I bent my black tank valve rod which also caused gouges in the rod! Between the rod not being straight and the groves catching it was really hard to get it moving. I wiped the rod down, straightened as good as I could, smoothed with sand paper, wiped down rod again and viola!!! It worked!
@@JaniceTDesignsYou'd need to replace the valve. You could probably replace just the cable and reroute it, but the fact is you'd need to take off the underbelly of the RV anyways to access, so at this point you may as well replace the whole valve (which comes with a new cable, etc.), then you get fresh gaskets with valve too.
What if the valve doesn't open all the way and you just get a trickle when you try to empty the black water tank? We had a technician come out and back flush the system and he said that it's not solids or a blockage. He said the valve isn't opening enough to allow anything but liquid through at a very slow rate. Thanks for any advice you can give.
Two things I’ve found helpful- Try to let a few hours go by between “introducing” solids and dumping. Second, get a cap with the garden hose type port and attach a quarter turn valve. When you go to dump get the stinky slinky laid out, and before you take the cap off hold the slinky under the quarter turn valve and open it slowly. Once nothing comes out, you know you can take the cap off without stink sploosh.
One thing I have started doing is every time I empty my tank is after I close it is put about a gallon of fresh water in the tank and add a cup of gain liquid detergent in, helps with the smell and keeps everything nice and lubed and flowing.
My camper sat for 5 years before I bought it with the cable valves open. Now I'm not able to close them. Can I loosen them back up somehow to close them?
My 2600RB Grand Design's black tank handle is frozen. I watched a video via 2krazykampers on how to replace it, but still hoping that is not necessary - and it says you have to purchase the the whole waste valve system, although you can pull the cable from the new unit and replace it rather than pulling the waste valve.
Stuck open is one thing, what about having a full load and the valve is stuck shut. How do you fix this? I managed to get mine open and flush it out, but is there a way to avoid this? When it was stuck closed, I could pull the handle out, but the valve would not open. This is a direct handle to valve, no cable.
I have the same question Dennis... just this weekend my grey valve got stuck shut (and remains shut). The handle moved with normal force and didn't feel abnormal in its movement but no grey water exiting. I am wondering if the cable broke or perhaps came loose. (No previous issues with this prior). Thanks for any advice. bg
@@takeitallin6882 I did eventually get the valve to open some and ran a snake to help open it up and brake up any solids that may have been there. I then dumped many gallons of hot water down the toilet to flush along with using the internal flush system. It did work well after. I did see where if you have access to the valve body, where the valve pull out rod comes out, or valve slide, is. You drill a small hole in that part of the valve and spray lube in that area and then plug the hole with a screw. It may be an option to making sure the valve does not get dry and stick.
@@denniskwasnycia1950 when making the hole, ensure the hole is only as big as the straw on the spray can (this hole is made closest to the actuator rod exit/entrance) then ensure a short screw is used! I use the 3in1 side seal lube. Works great! Change a black tank valve one time (even if it’s your own RV) and you won’t want to do that chore again.
It depends on what type of fresh tank fill you have. A common issue is a back flow issue from you Water pump. It's supposed to act as a one way check valve. but it doesn't always. you can alway get a check valve and put it inline with your water pump or change out the pump.
I have a Open Range 373rbs with 2 black tanks and they work very smoothly but I have 2 gray tanks and their valves will stick closed. The valves are above the corplast, I have tried after dumping to add vegetable oil or food grade mineral oil. Any suggestions
Who says put vegetable oil on the cable? No one, that’s who. The vegetable oil is for the valve itself. Yes, poor vegetable down the toilet to lube the valve door. Also, if you’re going to give tips, how about finishing the tip. You introduced the toilet paper in the valve, so how do you get it out now?
My Problem is the ELECTRIC Black Tank Valve is stuck CLOSED. I can't drain the tank, so I can't really remove the valve to clean/lube/unstick it. Does anyone have experience with this problem?
@@Squirrel-zq6oe Heartland Big Country 3155RLK. The handles are in the driver's side bay with the city water feed point. The valves are remote up by the tanks and above the underbelly.
There's a third possibility. Manufacturers tend to coil cables that are too long in a tight radius. Use a fiber optic camera to look inside the underbelly. If you see that the cable has a tight radius, cut and shorten it or re-route it for less friction.
Water. I tell customers to fill their tank half way before using it. Personally, I drain my tank then use my shower hose to add water with the tank valve open just to help push those floater down. Once drained I fill again to halfway. No issues as of yet. I had a customer that would keep their grey tank open while draining the black tank. Complained of a smell from the sink. Was a good chuckle while educating the customer.
The way you explained everything with the visuals as well my friend well done you are an awesome teacher thank you
Good info Todd. As a profesional Bicycle mechanic I was aware about cable and what to use and not. I agree with you about not to use oil on the cables. I always enjoy your tech tips.
Thank you.
I got it open admit it was tight, but got it then all the stuff is clear and gone, and water clean. sprayed the valve with silicone spray really well and will continue to spray if you tell me ok thats what i did and it ran very well thanks for your video really valuable it is closed all the way out and the wand did the job well
Hey Todd, love the videos and have learned a lot. I have an in-line Valtera bladex black tank valve under our toy hauler and I can hardly open/close it. I don't see a way to access the inside of the valve without taking the pipes apart. If flushing the black tank doesn't remove what is blocking the valve, is it ok to run a black tank hose from the exit opening and try to thread it and flush that way?
I bent my black tank valve rod which also caused gouges in the rod! Between the rod not being straight and the groves catching it was really hard to get it moving. I wiped the rod down, straightened as good as I could, smoothed with sand paper, wiped down rod again and viola!!! It worked!
great
My rod and handle pulled completely out
@@donaldarvin8506Hey! Just happened to me. What did you do?
@@JaniceTDesignsYou'd need to replace the valve. You could probably replace just the cable and reroute it, but the fact is you'd need to take off the underbelly of the RV anyways to access, so at this point you may as well replace the whole valve (which comes with a new cable, etc.), then you get fresh gaskets with valve too.
So, I did whole handle piece. Was difficult but worked. THEN, a couple of weeks ago, my whole black tank fell off. Ooops! New problem. 😂
Very nice and concise explanation. Thanks for sharing this helpful information.
What if the valve doesn't open all the way and you just get a trickle when you try to empty the black water tank? We had a technician come out and back flush the system and he said that it's not solids or a blockage. He said the valve isn't opening enough to allow anything but liquid through at a very slow rate. Thanks for any advice you can give.
See he doesn't address it. I think my valve is disconnected from the pully
I spray my release valves every time they're used with a silicone based lubricant.
👆this
Two things I’ve found helpful- Try to let a few hours go by between “introducing” solids and dumping.
Second, get a cap with the garden hose type port and attach a quarter turn valve. When you go to dump get the stinky slinky laid out, and before you take the cap off hold the slinky under the quarter turn valve and open it slowly. Once nothing comes out, you know you can take the cap off without stink sploosh.
One thing I have started doing is every time I empty my tank is after I close it is put about a gallon of fresh water in the tank and add a cup of gain liquid detergent in, helps with the smell and keeps everything nice and lubed and flowing.
Yeah i liked that and the smores lol
My camper sat for 5 years before I bought it with the cable valves open. Now I'm not able to close them. Can I loosen them back up somehow to close them?
you can try adding some dry lubricant to the cable pull. if not you may have to replace that service valve.
My 2600RB Grand Design's black tank handle is frozen. I watched a video via 2krazykampers on how to replace it, but still hoping that is not necessary - and it says you have to purchase the the whole waste valve system, although you can pull the cable from the new unit and replace it rather than pulling the waste valve.
You just had to show corn in there lol
Great tip Todd!
Stuck open is one thing, what about having a full load and the valve is stuck shut. How do you fix this? I managed to get mine open and flush it out, but is there a way to avoid this? When it was stuck closed, I could pull the handle out, but the valve would not open. This is a direct handle to valve, no cable.
You put vegetable oil down the toilet. It lubes the valve door and will keep it from jamming. You can also do it with your grey water valves as well.
I have the same question Dennis... just this weekend my grey valve got stuck shut (and remains shut). The handle moved with normal force and didn't feel abnormal in its movement but no grey water exiting. I am wondering if the cable broke or perhaps came loose. (No previous issues with this prior). Thanks for any advice. bg
@@takeitallin6882 I did eventually get the valve to open some and ran a snake to help open it up and brake up any solids that may have been there. I then dumped many gallons of hot water down the toilet to flush along with using the internal flush system. It did work well after. I did see where if you have access to the valve body, where the valve pull out rod comes out, or valve slide, is. You drill a small hole in that part of the valve and spray lube in that area and then plug the hole with a screw. It may be an option to making sure the valve does not get dry and stick.
@@denniskwasnycia1950 when making the hole, ensure the hole is only as big as the straw on the spray can (this hole is made closest to the actuator rod exit/entrance) then ensure a short screw is used! I use the 3in1 side seal lube. Works great! Change a black tank valve one time (even if it’s your own RV) and you won’t want to do that chore again.
@@22howards Thanks Chip!
I use a white lithium grease. Worked fine but sounds like I shouldn't.
Can I use CRC Power Lube Industrial High Performance Lubricant With PTFE? Can’t tell if that a “Dry” as you mentioned. Thank you !
Thanks for the poop on the poop tank! Keep the good stuff coming Todd.
always.
My valve is closed shut and won’t open. The rod pulls open but the valve stays shut. I’m afraid of what I need to do. Any advice?
My fresh water valve is staying open when I hook up the city water it fills up my freshwater tank what do you think the problem is
It depends on what type of fresh tank fill you have. A common issue is a back flow issue from you Water pump. It's supposed to act as a one way check valve. but it doesn't always. you can alway get a check valve and put it inline with your water pump or change out the pump.
Yes, I do like the shirt.
How do i know if the valve is NOT opening even though the hand lever does get pulled?
When you empty the tank and pull the lever and nothing comes out, it's NOT opening.
I have a Open Range 373rbs with 2 black tanks and they work very smoothly but I have 2 gray tanks and their valves will stick closed. The valves are above the corplast, I have tried after dumping to add vegetable oil or food grade mineral oil. Any suggestions
Who says put vegetable oil on the cable? No one, that’s who. The vegetable oil is for the valve itself. Yes, poor vegetable down the toilet to lube the valve door. Also, if you’re going to give tips, how about finishing the tip. You introduced the toilet paper in the valve, so how do you get it out now?
The vegetable oil for the valve door works.
You tube probably has a how to video on cleaning a black tank.
Actually there is a YT channel where that's exactly what they suggested. Pour vegetable oil down the sink to lubricate the gray valve.
What happens if my valve is very hard to open close on my grey tank?
What about it not opening!
My Problem is the ELECTRIC Black Tank Valve is stuck CLOSED. I can't drain the tank, so I can't really remove the valve to clean/lube/unstick it. Does anyone have experience with this problem?
Thanks god bless
My valves are above the underbelly cover. Have to drop the corplast to get to them.
That's unusual.
I wonder which make and model you own.
@@Squirrel-zq6oe Heartland Big Country 3155RLK. The handles are in the driver's side bay with the city water feed point. The valves are remote up by the tanks and above the underbelly.
Serious but at the same time amusing video. Nice job in explaining the possibilities. Thank you for all the info. Take care. Dave.
Thanks, you too!
The poopy is sticky
Solids, enough said 💩
He's still didn't answer the question of why they won't open
But she said open. Not close....
Someone told me to use wheel bearing greese ?
Do not use wheel bearing grease because that as well attracts dirt and grime.