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How to Replace your RV Underbelly and Check for Leaking Tanks
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- Опубликовано: 16 авг 2024
- A leaky RV underbelly can be one of a RVers biggest nightmares. And replacing your coroplast or underbelly material is not as hard as you may think. This may seem like an intimidating project but opening up your RV underbelly can be a good thing. Inspecting your black and grey tanks for leaks and checking under here to see where your gate valves are located are just a few benefits. In this video I go through the process of replacing your RV underbelly with a new coroplast material.
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The jack stand / 2x4 tip is brilliant!
Thanks man. I can’t take credit for it, I saw somebody doing it but can’t remember who now 🤷🏻♂️ Appreciate you watching 👍🏼
thank you for simply coming out and saying hey dont be afraid to tear things apart. this was the message i needed today. cheers 👊👊
Same! I don’t want to drop it but I know I need to!! I think my grey tank fell lol
SOOOO happy to have found your video. Our underbelly blew out at 70 MPH on the Interstate! Very dramatic, to say the least. I've ordered the material and am armed with your awesome hints for success. Thank you my new RV brother!
Good deal, really hope this helps you out. Not to difficult, just take your time and get it lined up correctly. Thanks for watching 👍🏼
Hi Chris, great tips and video. Have you considered a "plastic welding kit" to repair your crack in the grey tank? They're a lot cheaper and less work than you replacing your entire tank.
Good video to show how easy it is to do.
One suggestion I have for those that have heated underbellys is to run a strip of foam door insulation along the new screw line between the coroplast and frame. It will seal the gaps between screws to keep out moisture, bugs and such. I used 1” x 1/2” foam with the screws placed 12”s apart.
Good point and I really thought about doing that. I had some black double sided tape, not quite butyl tape, and was going to do the same. Appreciate you watching and commenting 👍🏼
Hi Chris I am so happy I came a cross this video, My trailer has a crack in the black tank and taking the trailer to get repair is not and option since it is my home. I was told to replace the tank they need to know the model, or number in the tank, to order the tank, and apparently it can take two to 8 weeks!
I can't go without my home for that long. So, I started making calls, and just the removal of the underbelly to check the number in the tank it is $150. I'm no afraid of power tools, so I decided I will removed the underbelly myself. and leave it down until the replacement arrives. The techs can so the rest. 🙂 it is also more likely It need a new underbelly. so Thank you.
Sure thing. Always good to see what’s going on under there anyways 👍🏼
Nicely done! We've largely rehabbed our RV but going into the belly is something I'm procrastinating doing as I don't know what sort of a hot mess it will be under there. At the same time, I love the "why wait" motto of just jump in and do it. Yes, the jack stand and the 2x4 is a brilliant idea - but ouch... rock.
Thanks! I was hesitant about opening it up as well. It’s like a wall in an old house, once it’s open you see all the issues. Oh and yeah, I was sore and had gravel imprints my body the next day lol
Good with the jack stands! Tho I have a motorhome and no coraplast it comes in handy for the knowledge. I had a couple beers and extra inspired!😂. I watch your videos all the time and appreciate. I know a lot but still learn all the time.
Hahaha 🍻 Appreciate you watching all the time! That’s me too, still learning something new all the time 👍🏼
Chris we inherited a 2004 Holiday Rambler Alumascape 5th wheel from my folks. Awesome all metal rig that we are restoring cosmetically and mechanically. This vid was enormously helpful as our cable actuated gray tank valve is stuck in the open position so I need to access the belly to repair and rejuvenate the systems in that area. However, I did use eternabond to seal a failing seal job on a hole that was cut into the belly to access valves in the past. Eternabond works way better that Gorilla tape. Thanks for the tips and suggestions.
Good deal. 👍🏼 Glad the video helped you out. Thanks for watching and commenting
Nice, I put that in my saved list. HEHEHE About 95% I have to do stuff by myself also. GOOD JOB.
Hahaha not to bad of a job, took most of the day and next time I’ll lay on a blanket. I had gravel indents all over my body for two days 😂😂
Great video. It’s a mystery what’s up under there.
Hahaha ain’t that the truth! Appreciate you checking it out 👍🏼
Hey Chris...great video as usual! 😀 I need to do this AND replace the blank tank too...I overfilled it (don't ask) using the blank tank flush, and something gave way and leaked a fair amount of water...although definitely not all of it.
Fortunately, the tank was virtually empty so the leakage was pretty clean! 👍 However, the Coroplast needed replacing anyway so this is a good reason to get it done!
Great tips, gonna check out RecPro for the materials.
Awesome! Appreciate you watching. I still need to fix the crack in my grey tank.
From day 1 We put small holes in from back to front boy that was great.
Good idea. Keep an eye on any suspicious leaks that way👍🏼👍🏼
Brilliant! and you check for entry of critters. Well done
Yes sir. Thanks for watching 👍🏼
Nice job! My underbelly fell off on North Dakota traveling on 94 eastbound. Was able to fix but need to go back in and insulate. Any options or do I need to take it down completely?
Thanks. 👍🏼
Any options on how to insulate without taking the underbelly off your asking?
None that I can really think of. 🤔🤔
Subbed. Your straight forward and relaxed approach is appreciated. Also an army vet. Cheers dude.
Appreciate that and thanks for your service. 👍🏼🫡 Safe travels out there.
Thank you, very informative. For me, very timely, I need to replace our underbelly.
Sure thing. It’s not the funnest job, takes about a whole day, take your time and just make sure it lines up on the frame going all the way back. Good luck. Thanks for watching 👍🏼
Man first of all i really appreciate this video! Found this looking for help. I have the situation you described. However, i have a 2010 keystone cougar x-lite. I have so many thing protruding past the underbelly like gas lines, waterline stems, braces, etc..
So, for example, its so difficult to remove mine i had to cut a square out to see what i could see. Soon I will be replacing my old coraplast with the recpro you show in video. I will have to wedge it over piping, thread it, and cut holes for the protruding assemblies. Yours seems so flush an clean compared to mine. I hope the recpro coraplast can bend and fold easy.
Mine is gonna be a pain in the a$$ 😅
Yikes. Sounds like that will be a pain. I know my back section of corroplast would be challenging as well. Good luck, thanks for watching.
Thank you for filming and sharing
Sure thing. Definitely one to bookmark the day you need to do this project. 👍🏼
Thank you
Sure thing. Hope it helps you out 👍🏼
Thanks for this i have to replace both tanks and need to replace the under belly
Sure thing. Definitely makes doing it by yourself easier. Biggest takeaway is just make sure it’s lined up goes back evenly on both sides. 👍🏼 Appreciate you watching.
Did you considered using rockwool instead of fiberglass insulation? We took a break from camping and are starting up again and I appreciate your videos for my future oh shucks repairs.
Appreciate you watching. I didn’t really do much research into it. Just bought what was probably cheaper. If rockwool is better R value it should be good.
@@WhyWait Rock wool insulation is hydrophobic ( wont absorb water) and rodents don't like it. Win win!.
Great help did not know where to purchase the underbelly material
Good deal. Yeah RecPro has a lot of those strange RV only products you may need. Thanks for watching 👍🏼
I had water
Waking into our underbelly from the bathroom grey tank. I thought if the tank overfilled while taking a shower, I would see it back in up in the shower, but the service folks said the drain pipe is not sealed to the pipe below, so and overfill will drain into the underbelly, seems crazy to me, but they said it protects flooding into the RV. So now I just leave the drain open till the last day of our visit and use it the flush the pipes
That’s crazy. Not suppose to be like that. All of our tanks once full just start filling up our sink or shower and that’s how we knew they were full and ready to empty.
@@WhyWait I agree with you, after all, why in the world would you want leaking into the under belly. I bought the Salem Hemisphere travel trailer 6 yrs ago from Camping World. Their service dept sucks, so I took it to an independent RV service company with excellent ratings, and they told me my system is designed to overflow into the belly. Makes no sense, and frankly, don’t believe them. But that’s what happened. I had my kids and grandkids camping with my wife and me and the last day there were a few showers taken and I forgot to open the bathroom grey tank. Never backed up into the shower but overflowed into the belly.
@@mse1333 that’s wild. Never heard of that.
Thanks for making this video, great information.
You’re welcome Shawn. Hope it helps you out if your doing this project or ever need to get into the underbelly 👍🏼
Great video, thanks for this!
Glad you liked it! 👍🏼 Hope it helps when if you ever need to do this
My 4 d tube bars with plates that hold up my fresh tank 96 gallons , the front plates broke loose and the belly of tank was sagging horribly.. we were about to take off from IA to GA.. I seen 2 bars hanging down from the front .. crawled under seen what it was.. manufacture used self tap screws to hold flat plate brackets on that is welded to the tubes that hold up tank.. the flat plate has 4 holes and only the front holes of plate could be used. Using Back holes, screws would have went into tank .. over 800lbs of dead weight held up my self tap screws.. tons of weight pulling down , screws aren’t meant for that force.. so I drilled out and used grade A bolts and double nutted them. Couldn’t imagine driving down the road and losing your fresh water tank with 600/800 lbs of water in it.. what are these manufactures thinking..
Smart unbelievable that the manufacturer would not do the same. Who made your trailer.
@@Ricky-eo5ym Heartland .. we have been lucky for the most part, been full timing in it for over a year.. I am ocd over upkeep and maintenance.. but had been the only issue .. a big one, but I have seen so much worse..
@@HappyRamblingCamper Thanks for the reply. Good to hear that you guys have had fairly good success. Enjoy.
Yeah pretty crazy. I like our style of tanks where the lip of the tank sits up on the edge of the frame itself. Plus we have a steel bar going across the middle vs those straps I’ve seen some companies use that always seem to fail. Appreciate you watching and commenting 👍🏼👍🏼
@@Ricky-eo5ym most campers are all made by the same shit box manufacturers under different names
You mentioned about the aluminum track being compromised, and replaced with fender washers (the ones you linked were about $1 each!). What is your thought on taking a PVC tube, cutting it in half on a table saw and then using a heat gun to flatten it out? thanks!
Sounds like a lot of work I suppose. I guess it would work though. Let me know 👍🏼
@@WhyWait Actually, after wandering around Home Depot for a while, I ran across aluminum drip edges. These seem to be good enough to cover the entire edge, and the same or less expensive than the fender washers!
Thanks!
Man thank you! Really appreciate that 👍🏼 I’ve only had a handful of super thanks and really do appreciate it so much!
Great video! Thanks for sharing. What do you use to seal around protrusions such as plumbing? I have some very big gaps to fill and trying to find what type of foam is used from factory.
Sure thing. I just use Great Stuff to seal up gaps on my RV.
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Do you have a video/ suggestions on how you fixed the gray tank leak?
I’m just going to replace my grey tank. The crack being right in the lip where all the pressure is I can’t see being fixed with anything. Just too much weight pulling down on the crack. Haven’t replaced the tank yet but I will. I just don’t fill it up to the top nowadays.
Seems there should be a way of creating access panels of the underbelly. Ours is in good shape, but I'm still interested in being able to see under there to know if/when there are issues before they become big ones (example if I want to change tank valves when they are sticking, BEFORE they break). I'd also be able to see the tank supports and be sure we aren't having issues like yours.
I'm thinking of cutting a straight-line cut (if I can do it along a beam - great) and then rigging some way of tacking it back on place with knobs or holders. Latch turn brackets? Or even zip-ties...
Anyone do this?
I have seen a system on a rv before that had like 5 foot retractable panels under there so you had access to certain parts by sliding the panels back. It was pretty cool.
Excellent video 👍👍
Thank you! Cheers! Appreciate you watching. 👍🏼
Thank you for the info. We had a problem last weekend and have all the sagging you mentioned. Wonder what I will find? 😇
Sure thing. I was afraid for years to open that underbelly because of what I might find and have to deal with. But it’s good to get under there and see what’s going on. Good luck!!
I found huge mouse nests there! gross!
Extremely helpful! New sub. Out of curiosity, do you think it would be necessary, or did you stumble upon any manufacturer recommendations to use some kind of sealant between the frame and underbelly material? That may be overkill, but mice are always a problem.
Thanks, appreciate that. Nope I didn’t use anything and there wasn’t anything on there prior from Grand Design either. You could always use some outdoor double sided tape or butyl tape I suppose but might be a nightmare next time you need to get in there. I feel if mice want in they will get in 🤷🏻♂️ Appreciate you watching.
My Jayco is designed so you cannot unscrew fasteners I am still trying to figure out how to get at the leaks
Strange. I have no idea how that works or what that’s about.
So where is the link to retro or what ever the name is of the company you get your rv supplies
RecPro…its in the video description
What size screws did you use? I've had #8 self drilling screws hit the frame a couple times and they just don't want to drill into it.
Not to sure right now to be honest. I reused a lot of the same screws and I’m not by my RV for the next few weeks to tell. Most of mine had no problem going in…maybe that’s a good thing for you, means you have a nice high quality frame lol
Nice job!!!👍
Thanks George 👍🏼
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@@georgecole1311 do you mean the Reese Goosebox? I don’t have the gen Y hitch.
@@WhyWait I’m sorry I thought you put on Gen-y hitch.. My Bad
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Unfortunately my underbelly is riveted on . When I had trouble with a broken gray tank handle ,off to the shop it went. Let them take the rivets out and replace them with screws. The last time I was there they told me about an underbelly cover that slides either under or over the next section. Have you ever heard of this?
Yes I actually have seen that in some new model RVs. Pretty cool looking and nice when you have an issue under there!
I called the manufacturer and they told me shiny side down
Were you able to use the same screw holes or did you have to make new ones with the self tapping screws and how did that go?
I touch base on all of that in the video at the 8:00 minute mark 👍🏼👍🏼
What size self-tapping screws and washers?
I reused a lot of the same screws. Not sure the size and I’m not at the rv right now. But I’d do just like I did and remove a screw from the frame, take it to the hardware store and match it up. Here’s a link to the washers. Thanks for watching.
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Where do you get that underbelly plastic from?
We got the corroplast roll from Recpro. Here’s a link and code for 5% off 👍🏼
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where are you located? what state, city
Hi Criss, did you ever repaint your frame ?
No I’ve never painted it. Really haven’t had any bad areas or rust that I’ve need to work on and then have a reason to paint it. 👍🏼
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Repeating too much!