I just wanted to say that I was skeptical about the need to grind the tips of the new front pads, but ended up doing exactly the same for the inner side as the new Bosch pad wouldn't goi in. Also, the original pad had an uneven wear (top thicker than the bottom), which makes me think that the new pads couldn't travel freely.
I changed my brakes again a few weeks ago and when I removed the sliders from the front right, the one with the rubber on the end gave some resistance to come out. The rubber component had swollen which caused the resistance. This scenario could contribute to uneven wear to the pads. I watched this video ruclips.net/video/_CjMUZDyt-I/видео.html and ended up removing the rubber all together. When doing the left side, I had a lot of uneven wear and I suspect that the pulsation I was getting was from the left side. The left side gave so much resistance to remove that the slider bolt actually broke off I side the anchor. I had to get the broken piece extracted and install new sliders. Hope this info helps.
@@shawnrsingh Thanks for the video. I also had problems with a couple of pins not wanting to come out. The hardest one surprisingly was the lower one (without the rubber tip) in one of the rear calipers. Some of those guide pins showed traces of corrosion near the gaps where those little rubber boots wouldn't seal - I guess they can only seal so much. Another observation - the rear brakes turned out to be the dirtiest and trickiest to work with.
I have a mitsubishi outlander 2009 2.0di-d (diesel). I need to do a brake fluid flush but I dont know which brake to flush first because of ABS, can you give me some help please?
I don't have any videos on flushing the brakes yet but I found this video from one of the channels that I follow. It should give you the info you need. ruclips.net/video/V5O_pbC8R2E/видео.html
Kenny Sok thanks for your question. I have used a c clamp in the past to push back the Caliper piston but the large slip joint pliers are just easy and possibly faster. and I get a better feel for if the piston may be starting to seize up.
Авто/Мото
Great and VALUABLE information on the details of the rear brake shoe. I have a 2005 Endeavor. This is what I needed.
Patrick Thompson thank you for your comment and I'm glad you were able to take away valuable information from this video!
This is how it should be done! Very detailed and well explained. Thank you!
Thanks snakedog!
Thank you for your video! On the point and extremely helpful!! Keep up the great work!
great video
Thanks!
I just wanted to say that I was skeptical about the need to grind the tips of the new front pads, but ended up doing exactly the same for the inner side as the new Bosch pad wouldn't goi in. Also, the original pad had an uneven wear (top thicker than the bottom), which makes me think that the new pads couldn't travel freely.
I changed my brakes again a few weeks ago and when I removed the sliders from the front right, the one with the rubber on the end gave some resistance to come out. The rubber component had swollen which caused the resistance. This scenario could contribute to uneven wear to the pads.
I watched this video
ruclips.net/video/_CjMUZDyt-I/видео.html
and ended up removing the rubber all together.
When doing the left side, I had a lot of uneven wear and I suspect that the pulsation I was getting was from the left side. The left side gave so much resistance to remove that the slider bolt actually broke off I side the anchor. I had to get the broken piece extracted and install new sliders.
Hope this info helps.
@@shawnrsingh Thanks for the video. I also had problems with a couple of pins not wanting to come out. The hardest one surprisingly was the lower one (without the rubber tip) in one of the rear calipers. Some of those guide pins showed traces of corrosion near the gaps where those little rubber boots wouldn't seal - I guess they can only seal so much.
Another observation - the rear brakes turned out to be the dirtiest and trickiest to work with.
Thank You
if the brake shoes/handbrake isnt adjusted right can that causes screechy noise sometimes when driving?
Thank you very much! Very helpful
Thru the Galaxy - thanks for watching!
I have a mitsubishi outlander 2009 2.0di-d (diesel). I need to do a brake fluid flush but I dont know which brake to flush first because of ABS, can you give me some help please?
I don't have any videos on flushing the brakes yet but I found this video from one of the channels that I follow. It should give you the info you need. ruclips.net/video/V5O_pbC8R2E/видео.html
Thank you
Very detailed Thanks ...
Glad it was helpful!
So the slider pin with rubber is on the bottom? thanks for the video!
bruknows yes, the pin with the rubber will be at the bottom.
@@shawnrsingh were they on the bottom on all four sides?
14 mm and 9/16" are nowhere near the "same".
Dan Watt that is odd, I have been able to interchange the two for many years now. your sockets and wrenches must be more precise than mine.
why didn't you use a c clamp
Kenny Sok thanks for your question. I have used a c clamp in the past to push back the Caliper piston but the large slip joint pliers are just easy and possibly faster. and I get a better feel for if the piston may be starting to seize up.