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Thanks for the info!

Not too sure, I'll have to look into that

That's crazy! How did it turn out for you?

@@shawnrsingh I did get the snowblower repaired and it was the main controller that was bad. Ryobi covered the expenses and I have used it 4 times this year so far with no issues.

If you still have the receipt go to ryobi's website and register the snow blower and at least you might be able to get a replacement snow blower or get yours fixed so it's not a complete waste of money. You will have to go through the warranty process which involves contacting them telling them what the problem is and then they will advise you what the remedy is. It's such a big disappointment when you spend all this money to get this tool that's supposed to help you with your snowfall and when the snow will finally comes it fails.

@@shawnrsingh thank you I will do it. But at this point even if I get a replacement I doubt it if it’s gonna work because there is something that is wrong with the motor in it. Mine is new I have only used it twice on snow last year and it’s out. Hopefully they will recover all of this model snow blower. We shouldn’t be paying for their failure in research@Ryobiusa

Please explain more

I haven't tried to fix it yet, but one viewer in the comments indicated that they had to get the motor controller replaced. They were in a similar situation as you and had to pay to get it fixed.

How did yours work out for you?

@@shawnrsingh Being in a Chicago suburb, we've been getting a lot of snow lately, it's been working pretty well for me, actually. Clears slush, clears snow, just a bit hard to push on the tougher stuff. Otherwise, I like it!

I was able to use the replacement blower and didn't have any further issues for the remainder of winter.

@@shawnrsingh thx

Sorry to hear that you had to go through that! I wish sometimes that I had gone with my guy and purchased the Ego snowblower in the first place. Thanks for sharing your experience.

@@shawnrsingh thanks very much appreciate that this snow blower is a good snow blower but the problem is that the motor controller is very weak so it failed and you cannot buy second-hand one from someone you have be the rightful owner so if you buy it from someone you cannot get it to replace if for some reason something goes wrong Ryobi will not replace it without the receipt thanks very much wish everyone a happy NO snow year LOL all the best your Ryobi S/B

I did that video a couple years ago, but i normally get them for around 20$ from an independent parts store

no, this was a bad run.

Thank you for your informative comment! I had not really consider it when installing it. I had always just made note of the arrows direction and kept it the same with the replacement filter.

Thanks!

how were you able to learn about the recall? So far the replacement that Ryobi sent has worked well through 4 or 5 snowfalls.

@@shawnrsingh It is at home depot that I found out that there was a Recall that is the reason they refund me because they did not have a replacement for me so I took the refund and bought a Toro 60V and I'm very satisfy with the Toro it works really good

Same prob for me

Glad it was helpful!

how did your spark replacement go?

@@shawnrsingh Planning to get to it as the weather gets warmer in April. A bit too cold up here in the northeast to be outside working on the car for a few hours... I'll be sure to post a follow up comment once I get to it.

Glad the video was able to help!

I dont believe there should be any difference between the 09 and 11 models, but there may a reason they say to drain it. did you get the job done one your 2011?

@@shawnrsingh Yes, I did it! When I got to it, I saw that the coolant lines connected to the throttle body. I just hung the throttle body aside and did not drain the coolant.

I guess you might experience engine vibration at idle and less efficient fuel consumption? worst case you might get an engine misfire

Thanks, Michael! I did this video a few years back, but as i recall, the gasket came with a rubber seal built into it so I did not add any additional sealant to it.

I'm glad the video was able to help! I hope to never have to do it again as well!!

Just noticed your comment Francisco, I did this video a few years ago but i believe that i reinstalled the gasket that came off when i removed that part. And sorry but i don't know the name of that specific part either... 😒

Same here can’t find that lil gasket.

Happy that I was able to help!

It wasn’t too bad to do?

​@@FleetTech97 I would say not too bad if you have some experience working on cars. This vid is pretty much all I used as it showed where all the bolts are especially the hidden ones in the back of the manifold. Took me roughly 3 hours on my first try so maybe set aside that amount of time. One tip is to screw the bolts back in place after removing the part so that you remember where they go. Way easier to do than in the 3.5 V6 in the 98 Montero I used to have.

@@nicenslomo6 awesome good to hear. Iv got plenty of experience. Just like to see what I’m getting into before I start doing it.

I changed my brakes again a few weeks ago and when I removed the sliders from the front right, the one with the rubber on the end gave some resistance to come out. The rubber component had swollen which caused the resistance. This scenario could contribute to uneven wear to the pads. I watched this video ruclips.net/video/_CjMUZDyt-I/видео.html and ended up removing the rubber all together. When doing the left side, I had a lot of uneven wear and I suspect that the pulsation I was getting was from the left side. The left side gave so much resistance to remove that the slider bolt actually broke off I side the anchor. I had to get the broken piece extracted and install new sliders. Hope this info helps.

@@shawnrsingh Thanks for the video. I also had problems with a couple of pins not wanting to come out. The hardest one surprisingly was the lower one (without the rubber tip) in one of the rear calipers. Some of those guide pins showed traces of corrosion near the gaps where those little rubber boots wouldn't seal - I guess they can only seal so much. Another observation - the rear brakes turned out to be the dirtiest and trickiest to work with.

Glad I could help!

Patrick Thompson thank you for your comment and I'm glad you were able to take away valuable information from this video!

neonpeonu thanks for watching! Glad to hear that they are helping people with their repairs.

Thanks snakedog!

bruknows yes, the pin with the rubber will be at the bottom.

@@shawnrsingh were they on the bottom on all four sides?

Thru the Galaxy - thanks for watching!

I have a mitsubishi outlander 2009 2.0di-d (diesel). I need to do a brake fluid flush but I dont know which brake to flush first because of ABS, can you give me some help please?

I don't have any videos on flushing the brakes yet but I found this video from one of the channels that I follow. It should give you the info you need. ruclips.net/video/V5O_pbC8R2E/видео.html

Thank you

Thanks Juan! I had a random misfire code prior to changing the plugs but no engine light came on after the job was done. Do you have a scanner to read what code is coming up?

Hi Shawn, I found a unplugged sensor that was causing the engine light, and the light came off very fast. how many kms do you have on your Outlander? I'm planning on having my for a long time, and wondering how long can they last with proper maintenance.

juan perdomo I currently have 211000 km on my Outlander. I do my daily commute with my car as well as long-distance drives occasionally to New York and often to the Cottage and I used it to drive Uber for a few months last year. I'm a bit of an aggressive driver so I try to keep on top of the maintenance and hopefully it will last me a long time as well!