Working on a similar project (two actually) My CR-10 has been upgraded as much as it can, while sticking to the standard frame. Might to with the Ender-3 NG project next, but as of right now, I'm also rebuilding a Solidoodle 3 into a 200x200 Voron hybrid (Legacy/Trident Belted Z)
I just ordered parts for a Voron 2.4 myself so this video was a pleasant surprise in my RUclips-feed. Like you I'll try to use spare parts I already have when I can. I'll follow your project eagerly as I'm sure I'll pick up some great ideas and tips for my own build. Good luck!
Heads up earlier versions of the V2 did use printed 80T gears and they worked pretty well. They did use I believe a 20T gear as a hub in the middle to provide a better shaft mount. If you dig up some of the older manuals or STL's you can see how that worked if you want a mostly printed but more robust 80T gear.
Thank you for the information! I didn't know about that. I have ordered some Powge 80T gears, but that will take forever to get here. So i'll start out using the printed ones.
Interesting idea. I’m not too sure on the tradeoffs between guide rods and linear rails, I always assumed linear rails would be more rigid but they have a similar cross-sectional area so it can’t be by much if they’re made of a similar stiffness metal. Guide rods aren’t as suitable where you need the linear motion element to also constrain rotation, you’d always need at least two rods for each axis.
I have "upgraded" several printers from rods to linear rails, but to be honest I haven't seen much/any improvement in print quality. But when it comes to reliability it's a different story. I have replaced several bearings due to noise or "slack". But that has always been the x or y-axis, not in Z. I haven't replaced any component on a linear rail so far.
The Trident is a very nice design. Sounds like you have a good starting point. Will the z-steppers and lead screws you have match the Trident? Each component isn’t that expensive but it all adds up .
@@v4projects absolutely, complete BOM creates price and every position that can be saved by reused or stock parts helps. Bought just one additional screw and stepper. Original Leadscrews has to get cut to lenght and shoult fit after. Trident is really nice, will use existing MGN12H on X, Y, Z because it is already on stock and build it with AWD and 9mm belts. It is 400mm TonXY and lays over Spec in therms of dimension, hopefully selected parts will cover that and in the end it becomes a reliable printer. May a good base for toolchanger system in future project.
The part with the eyebrows are the eyedlers/idlers for the Z belts. 🙂 Also, the Stealthburner toolhead has plenty of cooling for PLA. I print PLA almost exclusively on my V2.4r2, and it's working great. I just leave the doors open.
ohhh this is fun! i am jealous about al the extrusions you have laying around haha, i am building an normal trident. and for the electronics i am going to use the inverted electronics mod. it makes wiring super easy as you dont have to flip the printer, this does use smaller z motor mounts tho. something you could look into. i also like the kanrog shoutout! i subbed :)
Interesting project, good luck, subscribed. I'm in the process of Voron-ising an old TronXY X5S. I plan a Trident-like top end, but I'm reworking it so the axis sits at the top of the frame, rather than on extra extrusions below. The belt run and X carriage stay the same, to make it easier to fit different extruders. I may make it IDEX or a tool changer in the future. For the bed, I'm going for a 3-point kinematic bed like the RatRig Vcore, but belted like you, because maybe non-planar 3D printing will eventually become a thing. I'll either use linear rails or 2x 10mm smooth rods, needed to stop rotation of the Z carriages. And I bought a SV08, great so far!
Sounds like a fun and challengig plan. IDEX and tool changer is beyond my skills, at least now. SV08 would be a nice addition for me as well, but I am running out of space.
Subbed 😊, don’t get disheartened with statistics it’s early days in the channel. You will find videos get lots of views that do not seem to balance against subs, I have noticed this a lot across other creators channels. They have been going for a few years now and the persistence pays off. Like the content so far.
@@philclayton5163 Thank you! I didn’t expect much when it comes to views for these «nerdy» projects. It’s just for fun, but views count when it comes to interest from suppliers. And I am a bit picky about what to promote on my channel and have rejected some offers.
Oh, that is very interesting. I've been contemplating how much I could/should modify a Trident design, since I think I prefer the simplicity of the three-point moving bed over the four-point moving gantry.
Yes exactly, and to me it doesn't make sense to have four points on the bed. I am not trying to twist it to be straight:-) It makes sense for the gantry as I imagine that will twist with all the joints. Looking at my P1S it has only one stepper connected to all 3 leadscrews and all compensation for the bed is done by sw.
I've build a flying zero (A hash of a voron 2.4 and a voron 0) . Initially, I went with printed pulleys as well but in the end decided to replace them with full metal ones. It's tricky to drill them straight and centered well. In my case, most of then developed a wobble. I guess if you're very careful, it will work. It's not a matter of strength as the plastic is beefy enough. Having a drillstand/drillpress is probably a minimum as a small deviation will already lead to a wobble.
Thank you for sharing your experience. That is the part I am most concerned about. It’s probably not the right place to try to save some money. I’ll order some and replace later. Luckily I just need 3 pcs for my build.
Looking forward to see where this goes! Your printed parts turned out really nicely. Also as an audio guy, what do you think of that yamaha ag03 in the intro sequence? Thinking of getting one for myself. Cheers!
Cool! Are you happy with the result? How did you do the z belt tensioning? The Trident gantry seems to block the access to the original adjustment screw. I am thinking of using a thumbwheel I can reach from the side of the tensioner.
@@v4projects the z tensioner is very similar to the stock voron 2.4 tensioner except that mine is underneath the gantry and not mounted to the top of the frame. Are you in any of the 3d printer discords?
I have actually been thinking of that, but haven't looked at the Legacy in detail. Good idea and reminder! The reason I didn't go for the Legace in the first place is that I have 3 MGN rails. One MGN12C and two MGN12H. And they are the right length for a 300x300 build. My plan is to to build the frame and gantry very close to the Trident spec, It should then be easy to build the z-axis like the Trident as well, should my design fail.
Thanks, that's helpful advice! The main filament for this build is Isanmate ASA. The only red ABS/ASA i have is esun ABS+. I do however have some Fiberlogy ABS i can try out. (It's light green, like "RatRig green"). Have you ever tried the Fiberlogy ABS?
@@v4projects no I haven't, but I can vouch for Zyltech and Sunlu abs, not the best colours and not easy to print, but they are very strong and around the best for heat resistance
@@v4projects Sunlu abs is my main printing filament, it absolutely requires at least 60° chamber temp, but it's worth it because it's cheap and with good performance
Indeed, I just spent a few weeks wondering why a print in place part worked great in ABS but just would not work in ASA, until I looked at the data sheet properly and realised the stiffness of ASA was half of ABS.
@@miserablepile Absolutely 😄 This is what brings the next Level and pushes forward people, community, business. May not the fastest results but long term so much more pros than using fastlane.
![ATEEZ(에이티즈) - [GOLDEN HOUR : Part.2] Preview](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/X4PfgRPBUVo/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm really looking forward to what happens next, I'm a huge fan of projects like this 😄All the best! Cheers
Thank you!
Happy to find this project and this channel in general, waiting for part 2
Working on a similar project (two actually)
My CR-10 has been upgraded as much as it can, while sticking to the standard frame. Might to with the Ender-3 NG project next, but as of right now, I'm also rebuilding a Solidoodle 3 into a 200x200 Voron hybrid (Legacy/Trident Belted Z)
i loved junkyard wars, and I too am going through the process of upgrading my ancient ender 3 pro. Definitely subbed for the ride =)
I just ordered parts for a Voron 2.4 myself so this video was a pleasant surprise in my RUclips-feed. Like you I'll try to use spare parts I already have when I can. I'll follow your project eagerly as I'm sure I'll pick up some great ideas and tips for my own build. Good luck!
@@AndreasHagelberg Thank you!
Lets Pusch the cannel
Look forward to watching the progress. Best of luck!!
@@SnottyW Thank you!
Congratulations on 500 subs! Looking forward to seeing more
Thank you! I didn't expect that to happen so soon after publishing the last video.
I hope this channel gets big, this sounds like it could be really cool!
Thank you!
Love your channel, keep up the great work and im sure your subscriber count will grow.
Thanks!
Heads up earlier versions of the V2 did use printed 80T gears and they worked pretty well. They did use I believe a 20T gear as a hub in the middle to provide a better shaft mount. If you dig up some of the older manuals or STL's you can see how that worked if you want a mostly printed but more robust 80T gear.
Thank you for the information! I didn't know about that. I have ordered some Powge 80T gears, but that will take forever to get here. So i'll start out using the printed ones.
this is an awesome concept! you have a brilliant mind good sir and the internet should reward you! I wish you easy editing and happy printing!
Thank you! I need to work more on my editing as well :-)
Interesting idea. I’m not too sure on the tradeoffs between guide rods and linear rails, I always assumed linear rails would be more rigid but they have a similar cross-sectional area so it can’t be by much if they’re made of a similar stiffness metal. Guide rods aren’t as suitable where you need the linear motion element to also constrain rotation, you’d always need at least two rods for each axis.
I have "upgraded" several printers from rods to linear rails, but to be honest I haven't seen much/any improvement in print quality. But when it comes to reliability it's a different story. I have replaced several bearings due to noise or "slack". But that has always been the x or y-axis, not in Z. I haven't replaced any component on a linear rail so far.
Really nice project! Planning a Voron Trident build out of an TronXY for a while now and will spend time end of year. Looking forward following you.
The Trident is a very nice design. Sounds like you have a good starting point. Will the z-steppers and lead screws you have match the Trident? Each component isn’t that expensive but it all adds up .
@@v4projects absolutely, complete BOM creates price and every position that can be saved by reused or stock parts helps.
Bought just one additional screw and stepper. Original Leadscrews has to get cut to lenght and shoult fit after.
Trident is really nice, will use existing MGN12H on X, Y, Z because it is already on stock and build it with AWD and 9mm belts. It is 400mm TonXY and lays over Spec in therms of dimension, hopefully selected parts will cover that and in the end it becomes a reliable printer.
May a good base for toolchanger system in future project.
The part with the eyebrows are the eyedlers/idlers for the Z belts. 🙂 Also, the Stealthburner toolhead has plenty of cooling for PLA. I print PLA almost exclusively on my V2.4r2, and it's working great. I just leave the doors open.
@@grbrigsted Good to hear that the cooling is good! I’ll build SB as designed and see how this works out
wow this is going to be an awesome build, cant wait to see more, Regarding printer gears Iv been using the same voron gear for over 2 years no issues
Thanks!
ohhh this is fun! i am jealous about al the extrusions you have laying around haha, i am building an normal trident. and for the electronics i am going to use the inverted electronics mod. it makes wiring super easy as you dont have to flip the printer, this does use smaller z motor mounts tho. something you could look into.
i also like the kanrog shoutout! i subbed :)
Sounds cool! Having the electronics in the most akward location on the printer is kind of strange.
I just got a refurb sv06 and its not perfect but its open I took it apart already I like it and now I want a voron!
Interesting project, good luck, subscribed. I'm in the process of Voron-ising an old TronXY X5S. I plan a Trident-like top end, but I'm reworking it so the axis sits at the top of the frame, rather than on extra extrusions below. The belt run and X carriage stay the same, to make it easier to fit different extruders. I may make it IDEX or a tool changer in the future. For the bed, I'm going for a 3-point kinematic bed like the RatRig Vcore, but belted like you, because maybe non-planar 3D printing will eventually become a thing. I'll either use linear rails or 2x 10mm smooth rods, needed to stop rotation of the Z carriages. And I bought a SV08, great so far!
Sounds like a fun and challengig plan. IDEX and tool changer is beyond my skills, at least now. SV08 would be a nice addition for me as well, but I am running out of space.
Subbed 😊, don’t get disheartened with statistics it’s early days in the channel.
You will find videos get lots of views that do not seem to balance against subs, I have noticed this a lot across other creators channels. They have been going for a few years now and the persistence pays off.
Like the content so far.
@@philclayton5163 Thank you! I didn’t expect much when it comes to views for these «nerdy» projects. It’s just for fun, but views count when it comes to interest from suppliers. And I am a bit picky about what to promote on my channel and have rejected some offers.
Oh, that is very interesting. I've been contemplating how much I could/should modify a Trident design, since I think I prefer the simplicity of the three-point moving bed over the four-point moving gantry.
Yes exactly, and to me it doesn't make sense to have four points on the bed. I am not trying to twist it to be straight:-) It makes sense for the gantry as I imagine that will twist with all the joints. Looking at my P1S it has only one stepper connected to all 3 leadscrews and all compensation for the bed is done by sw.
I've build a flying zero (A hash of a voron 2.4 and a voron 0) . Initially, I went with printed pulleys as well but in the end decided to replace them with full metal ones. It's tricky to drill them straight and centered well. In my case, most of then developed a wobble. I guess if you're very careful, it will work. It's not a matter of strength as the plastic is beefy enough. Having a drillstand/drillpress is probably a minimum as a small deviation will already lead to a wobble.
Thank you for sharing your experience. That is the part I am most concerned about. It’s probably not the right place to try to save some money. I’ll order some and replace later. Luckily I just need 3 pcs for my build.
Looking forward to see where this goes! Your printed parts turned out really nicely.
Also as an audio guy, what do you think of that yamaha ag03 in the intro sequence? Thinking of getting one for myself. Cheers!
Thanks! I am happy with the Yamaha interface/mixer. The mic preamp isn’t super quiet, the unit has the in/outs I need and it’s compact.
instant fan of your project
Good luck!
I might need it ;-)
Wow, You just casually have like 80 fuckin ali extrusions just laying around on a shelf. XD
I also have some larger extrusions in my garage At some point I planned to build a CNC machine. That might still happen.
Subbed, let's see how this goes :)
@@ReVerthex Thanks!
I just completed a similar project using a 2.4 frame but quad belted z w static "trident" gantry.
Cool! Are you happy with the result? How did you do the z belt tensioning? The Trident gantry seems to block the access to the original adjustment screw. I am thinking of using a thumbwheel I can reach from the side of the tensioner.
@@v4projects the z tensioner is very similar to the stock voron 2.4 tensioner except that mine is underneath the gantry and not mounted to the top of the frame. Are you in any of the 3d printer discords?
As my design looks the tensioner will be below the gantry as well. Not in any groups except klipper.discourse.group.
Looks great! You should look up Voron Legacy to see if some of it's designs can apply to your build :)
I have actually been thinking of that, but haven't looked at the Legacy in detail. Good idea and reminder! The reason I didn't go for the Legace in the first place is that I have 3 MGN rails. One MGN12C and two MGN12H. And they are the right length for a 300x300 build. My plan is to to build the frame and gantry very close to the Trident spec, It should then be easy to build the z-axis like the Trident as well, should my design fail.
I opened the CAD-model for Legacy in Fusion now and there are some really nice looking holders for the z-rods in that design.
awesome
Subbed... Interesting
Don't use esun abs+ for structural parts, it's way worse than normal abs both in terms of mechanical and thermal properties
Thanks, that's helpful advice! The main filament for this build is Isanmate ASA. The only red ABS/ASA i have is esun ABS+. I do however have some Fiberlogy ABS i can try out. (It's light green, like "RatRig green"). Have you ever tried the Fiberlogy ABS?
@@v4projects no I haven't, but I can vouch for Zyltech and Sunlu abs, not the best colours and not easy to print, but they are very strong and around the best for heat resistance
I am using a lot of Sunlu petg and pla. Haven’t tried their ABS, but I’ll do that. Thanks!
@@v4projects Sunlu abs is my main printing filament, it absolutely requires at least 60° chamber temp, but it's worth it because it's cheap and with good performance
Indeed, I just spent a few weeks wondering why a print in place part worked great in ABS but just would not work in ASA, until I looked at the data sheet properly and realised the stiffness of ASA was half of ABS.
My colleague has a 2.4 and always complains about belt tension on all 4 belts on the gantry
Is he struggling with getting the tension right/stable, or is it difficult to do the physical adjustment?
@@v4projects getting the tension right on all four belts
Thats a Voron
I guess you could weld two halves of different Ford models together and claim it’s still a Ford. That’s not a Ford in my world, but what do I know.
or get a bambu..
I have 3 P1S :-) I kept this old printer because of the 300x300 build plate. As you know Bambu is max 256x256
That would take all the fun out of things.
JUNKYARD WARS was the best show ever!!!!!!
Your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should 🫨
jk, sounds like a cool project!
@@miserablepile
Absolutely 😄
This is what brings the next Level and pushes forward people, community, business. May not the fastest results but long term so much more pros than using fastlane.