I just had my truck heater core flushed by a rad shop. I had very little heat on the drivers side, hot on passenger side. After the flush I got very hot heat on both sides. $50 well spent and no mess on my property.
2011 ram 2500 same issue - I did a clean out of my heater core (new one i put in last year ) but found i had a small leak at the temp sensor that caused air in the system . ALL FIXED - great vid
I want to flush the heater core on my 2016 Dodge Ram 2500. In the video you stated that you used CLR to flush your heater core. Heater cores are aluminum. The CLR bottle states not to use on aluminum, because it is corrosive. Have you had any problems with the heater core since you flushed it with CLR? Directions TO OPEN PUSH DOWN & TURN. CLOSE TIGHTLY. INSTRUCTIONS: TO CLEAN TUBS, TOILET BOWLS, SINKS, PORCELAIN, CEMENT, STUCCO and BRICK: Mix equal amounts of CLR and warm water. Apply directly to calcium, lime or rust with brush, cloth or sponge. Rinse promptly with cold clean water. If stain does not disappear, use CLR full strength, wipe and rinse promptly. COFFEE MAKERS: Mix 1 part CLR to 8 parts water. Run through automatic machine as if making coffee. Rinse thoroughly by running 4 full pots of cold clean water through a complete cycle. COFFEE POTS, PANS, TEA KETTLES AND HUMIDIFIERS: Pour enough CLR to cover bottom and use brush or sponge to wipe away any stains. Add hot water and allow to soak for 2 minutes. Rinse thoroughly with cold clean water. IMPORTANT Wear household rubber gloves. DO NOT USE CLR on natural stone, marble, terrazzo, colored grout, painted or metallic glazed surfaces, plastic laminates, Formica, aluminum, copper, brass, steam irons, refinished tubs or any damaged or cracked surface. May etch older sinks, tubs and tiles. CLR may return older cement to its original white appearance. Avoid contact with wood, clothing, wallpaper and carpeting. ALWAYS TEST ALL SURFACES IN A SMALL HIDDEN AREA BEFORE USE. Always avoid prolonged contact with any surface. After 2 minutes, rinse promptly and thoroughly with cold clean water.
Lmfao I replaced my heater core last year and it was aluminum. Then I seen this video of this guy using CLR I LMAO obviously he didn’t read the instructions on the CLR bottle
@@patricklandis3910 I use Thermocure and Prestone Radiator Anti-Rust with water pump lube. Both products work very well. The heater core on Dodge Rams is notorious for clogging up and rusting, so I flush my system once a year.
Thanks for the good video, your a pretty good teacher. I have about 100,000 miles on my 2012 Ram 1500 Hemi and I just bought new radiator hoses. After watching your video I think I'll pick up a new thermostat before I drain, flush and replace the coolant.
This heater core still holding strong? About to do my 2018 Cummins with IRON-TITE flush... Ridiculous... So mad that it's not accessible... Nice video!
This is great unless the hoses are essentially fused to the coupling. Even removing both clamps, those hoses aren’t separating under any circumstances. I would have to replace the hoses and feed them into the heater core behind the dash just to do this flush…
CLR destroys aluminum and will break it down faster. That's why they take special coolant😉 You can cause a leak and have to replace the core and that would be VERY EXPENSIVE!!! They have core cleaners for that.
Thanks for your video, helpful. I have a '95 2500 diesel. The defrost fogs up the windows more than it defogs them. There seems to be plenty of heat once the engine temp gets up to normal operating temp. Did your flush give you more heat? Was that door you changed only for heat/AC? Is there another door that reroute heat to the defrost?
I believe that I have more heat after the flush due to better flow through the heater core. The actuator I replaced was for the heat/AC temperature control. It was functioning when I replaced it, but it was getting awful noisy and I wanted to change it before the cold temperatures set in. Yes, the 2009 Ram has an actuator that controls the defrost/face vents that's located back behind the radio. I'm not familiar with the 2nd Gen Dodge heater/AC units, but I would imagine that the 2nd Gen Rams would also have a separate defrost actuator and blend door.
I always use "The works" and I've had good results. I'm actually doing that right now, I'm just watching your video to pass the time as I let it sit to work. But it's supposed to be good for "Removed rust, limescale, and hard water stains" Also, does that......float(?) In the background say "obx"?
I have an issue with only one side of my 13 dodge ram 1500 heat working. The passenger side is very hot but the driver side is sometimes cold or Luke warm. Any suggestions?
Does your truck have the dual zone climate control option? If not, then I would suspect a partially clogged heater core that a flush should fix. If it does have dual climate then it could be either heater core or blend door issue
I'm leaning towards the heater core being party clogged. My 09 ram 1500 5.7 does the same thing. Dual climate control, I get heat out of the passenger side and no the driver... if I swap heater core hoses on the water pump. I get heat for about a week out both sides. Going to clr my heater core sometime in the next week if it hits over 40* again. If I remember il comment back and tell you if it fixes everything
My question is with the mixtures of distill water and antifreeze. You went 4 gal distill and added a gal of anti freeze for a complete refill of the coolant system?
Have an 09 ram 1500 with the flex fuel 4.7. Had heat last night. And got in the truck this Morning and it's ice cold. Have had zero issues before this. Heat always worked great. Any advice is appreciated
I have heat on my passenger side, but not my driver side. I've replaced all 5 of my blend door actuators flushed out my coolant. I occasionally get heat at higher rpm on the driver side. Can anyone help me.
I have a ram 2013 ram and my passenger side is blowing warm air and driver side is blowing cool air. I checked all my actuators and blend doors all seam to be working fine. Now was wondering if I need a thermostat and a radiator flush
I have HOT air on passenger side, so I know I have hot water in my radiator and heater core. (2009 1500, with dual heater controls for passenger or driver sides) but I have cool air on my driver side vent. I can see both driver and passenger blend doors open/shut when I adjust the temp up and down, so they are working. I've flushed my heater core, I've replaced my thermostat. any idea why I still have cool air on driver side? Could the driver blend door be partially stuck open and not closing all the way? (I can remove that blend motor and manually open/close the door by turning that white socket, it seems fine at least. THANKS!
One question, which hose connects where. I have a 03 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7L that I am fixing and the heater hoses were not on it. I want to make sure I have them connected to the right place. So can you please help me?
I've had mine done at a dealership 2 yrs. ago it got a little better, then I had replace the thermostat last yr.This yr.had to have flushed out again. Still only about 110-120° out of my vents, it's a 2015 Ram 2500 60,000 do have any suggestions
My 2013 ram same ,single climate hot passenger, cool drivers ?top of the lone junk ?I think I'm gonna tape some dryer ducting to passenger vents then I can aim the heat were ever I want ?on my nuts 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 frigging ram 💩
I'm here looking for answers too. I have a 2014 with 45k on it. Only blowing warm air. Actuator works fine on the ac/heat. Coolant level is good, truck doesn't overheat. So it has to be the heater core right? Just odd I don't have many miles or hours on the truck.
Thanks for the video. I have a 2010 Ram 1500 and im getting plenty of heat through the passenger side but only luke warm if not ambient air on the drivers side. I replaced all 3 of the actuators behind the dash, I read somewhere that a heater core flush would fix this so I attempted that but I did not use any CLR I just used a garden hose and ran water through the ends of the hoses and alternated them till water was coming out nice and clear(never had any real junk come out). Do you think I need to do the CLR part is there something else im missing. Thanks.
If you are getting hot heat on passenger side, then I suspect your heater core is fine. I actually got 2 bad "dorman" type actuators from local parts house that were bad out of the box. I bought "mopar" brand from dealer and have been trouble free. The left side flow is controlled from the actuator located on the bottom center of the hvac unit. You can pull that actuator off and manually turn the blend door to rule out a bad actuator, or swap it with a known good one.
It’s the blend door actuator. The heat/ac box has multiple actuators that move the blend doors inside. The blend doors control whether hot or cool air comes out of the vents and also if the air comes out of defrost vents or front dash vents. The specific one I replaced controls if you get hot or cool air.
That’s how mine started out. Then I lost all heat. Those actuators just have little plastic gears in them and they will break teeth until they no longer function. Just an FYI, depending on the trim level of your truck and year, there can be multiple and some are difficult to get too. Also, buy Mopar actuators, I replaced an AutoZone one that stripped after only having it installed for a year.
You'll just want to use the hose that goes into the top of the Heater Core.You can use a garden hose with light pressure and flush the heater core of the CLR then use the distilled water/coolant mix to refill the cooling system.
I have super small diameter 90degree pointed pick tool (similar to what you will see in dentist office) that I've used to work the hoses loose in the past. Just carefully slide it between the hose & cast surface then work it around the whole inner circumference. I believe I picked it up at the local NAPA.
![Tee Grizzley - Detroit (Feat. 42 Dugg) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/aeKfTtt0x14/mqdefault.jpg)
I just had my truck heater core flushed by a rad shop. I had very little heat on the drivers side, hot on passenger side. After the flush I got very hot heat on both sides. $50 well spent and no mess on my property.
I love these kind of videos that help my pockets not go bust.
2011 ram 2500 same issue - I did a clean out of my heater core (new one i put in last year ) but found i had a small leak at the temp sensor that caused air in the system . ALL FIXED - great vid
Don't use CLR in aluminum radiators!
Which your heater core is made from… fyi
I want to flush the heater core on my 2016 Dodge Ram 2500. In the video you stated that you used CLR to flush your heater core. Heater cores are aluminum. The CLR bottle states not to use on aluminum, because it is corrosive. Have you had any problems with the heater core since you flushed it with CLR?
Directions
TO OPEN PUSH DOWN & TURN. CLOSE TIGHTLY. INSTRUCTIONS: TO CLEAN TUBS, TOILET BOWLS, SINKS, PORCELAIN, CEMENT, STUCCO and BRICK: Mix equal amounts of CLR and warm water. Apply directly to calcium, lime or rust with brush, cloth or sponge. Rinse promptly with cold clean water. If stain does not disappear, use CLR full strength, wipe and rinse promptly. COFFEE MAKERS: Mix 1 part CLR to 8 parts water. Run through automatic machine as if making coffee. Rinse thoroughly by running 4 full pots of cold clean water through a complete cycle. COFFEE POTS, PANS, TEA KETTLES AND HUMIDIFIERS: Pour enough CLR to cover bottom and use brush or sponge to wipe away any stains. Add hot water and allow to soak for 2 minutes. Rinse thoroughly with cold clean water. IMPORTANT Wear household rubber gloves. DO NOT USE CLR on natural stone, marble, terrazzo, colored grout, painted or metallic glazed surfaces, plastic laminates, Formica, aluminum, copper, brass, steam irons, refinished tubs or any damaged or cracked surface. May etch older sinks, tubs and tiles. CLR may return older cement to its original white appearance. Avoid contact with wood, clothing, wallpaper and carpeting. ALWAYS TEST ALL SURFACES IN A SMALL HIDDEN AREA BEFORE USE. Always avoid prolonged contact with any surface. After 2 minutes, rinse promptly and thoroughly with cold clean water.
Lmfao I replaced my heater core last year and it was aluminum. Then I seen this video of this guy using CLR I LMAO obviously he didn’t read the instructions on the CLR bottle
@@patricklandis3910 I use Thermocure and Prestone Radiator Anti-Rust with water pump lube. Both products work very well. The heater core on Dodge Rams is notorious for clogging up and rusting, so I flush my system once a year.
Thanks for the good video, your a pretty good teacher. I have about 100,000 miles on my 2012 Ram 1500 Hemi and I just bought new radiator hoses. After watching your video I think I'll pick up a new thermostat before I drain, flush and replace the coolant.
CLR is horrible for any vehicle with aluminum in cooling systems. Hope not alot of people follow this without doing some research first
You know I was thinking the same thing.
I was hoping I wasn't the only one who noticed it
U just saved my @ss with that comment
What modern vehicle doesn’t use aluminum cooling fins?
I use distilled white vinegar to clean and flush my heater core. Then flush it clean with distilled water.
This was the exact video that I needed. Thanks!
Make sure the cl5 doesn't get in the water pump cause the weep hole will leek!
This heater core still holding strong? About to do my 2018 Cummins with IRON-TITE flush... Ridiculous... So mad that it's not accessible... Nice video!
This is great unless the hoses are essentially fused to the coupling. Even removing both clamps, those hoses aren’t separating under any circumstances. I would have to replace the hoses and feed them into the heater core behind the dash just to do this flush…
Use a pick tool to work around the hose. Will pop right off
Well done video bro. I am hoping this will fix my issue.
CLR destroys aluminum and will break it down faster.
That's why they take special coolant😉
You can cause a leak and have to replace the core and that would be VERY EXPENSIVE!!!
They have core cleaners for that.
Thanks just bought a 2013 ram. Heat on one side. I will try this.
Great job with video and everything you talked about was helpful and important thanks
Thanks for your video, helpful. I have a '95 2500 diesel. The defrost fogs up the windows more than it defogs them. There seems to be plenty of heat once the engine temp gets up to normal operating temp. Did your flush give you more heat? Was that door you changed only for heat/AC? Is there another door that reroute heat to the defrost?
I believe that I have more heat after the flush due to better flow through the heater core. The actuator I replaced was for the heat/AC temperature control. It was functioning when I replaced it, but it was getting awful noisy and I wanted to change it before the cold temperatures set in. Yes, the 2009 Ram has an actuator that controls the defrost/face vents that's located back behind the radio. I'm not familiar with the 2nd Gen Dodge heater/AC units, but I would imagine that the 2nd Gen Rams would also have a separate defrost actuator and blend door.
Great vid my friend! Learned a lot!
Definitely sounds like mine
So what came out of the heater core? Was it clogged? What was in it?
I always use "The works" and I've had good results. I'm actually doing that right now, I'm just watching your video to pass the time as I let it sit to work. But it's supposed to be good for "Removed rust, limescale, and hard water stains"
Also, does that......float(?) In the background say "obx"?
I have an issue with only one side of my 13 dodge ram 1500 heat working. The passenger side is very hot but the driver side is sometimes cold or Luke warm. Any suggestions?
Does your truck have the dual zone climate control option? If not, then I would suspect a partially clogged heater core that a flush should fix. If it does have dual climate then it could be either heater core or blend door issue
I'm leaning towards the heater core being party clogged. My 09 ram 1500 5.7 does the same thing. Dual climate control, I get heat out of the passenger side and no the driver... if I swap heater core hoses on the water pump. I get heat for about a week out both sides.
Going to clr my heater core sometime in the next week if it hits over 40* again. If I remember il comment back and tell you if it fixes everything
My question is with the mixtures of distill water and antifreeze. You went 4 gal distill and added a gal of anti freeze for a complete refill of the coolant system?
Have an 09 ram 1500 with the flex fuel 4.7. Had heat last night. And got in the truck this Morning and it's ice cold. Have had zero issues before this. Heat always worked great. Any advice is appreciated
My guess would be the blend door actuator that can be accessed behind the glove box lid. I replace the same one in this video.
Do you a video on replacing the mode door? It click whenever changing to vent, floor, defrost, etc...
I have heat on my passenger side, but not my driver side. I've replaced all 5 of my blend door actuators flushed out my coolant. I occasionally get heat at higher rpm on the driver side. Can anyone help me.
I have a ram 2013 ram and my passenger side is blowing warm air and driver side is blowing cool air. I checked all my actuators and blend doors all seam to be working fine. Now was wondering if I need a thermostat and a radiator flush
Can you ease tell me the name of the last part you put under the dash , ? Thank you Great Video
us new guys need to see everything. like which heater core hose did you pour the clr in? you about to have me put clr in the wrong hose man.lol
Why didn't you replace heater core?
I have HOT air on passenger side, so I know I have hot water in my radiator and heater core. (2009 1500, with dual heater controls for passenger or driver sides) but I have cool air on my driver side vent. I can see both driver and passenger blend doors open/shut when I adjust the temp up and down, so they are working. I've flushed my heater core, I've replaced my thermostat. any idea why I still have cool air on driver side? Could the driver blend door be partially stuck open and not closing all the way? (I can remove that blend motor and manually open/close the door by turning that white socket, it seems fine at least. THANKS!
One question, which hose connects where. I have a 03 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7L that I am fixing and the heater hoses were not on it. I want to make sure I have them connected to the right place. So can you please help me?
I've had mine done at a dealership 2 yrs. ago it got a little better, then I had replace the thermostat last yr.This yr.had to have flushed out again. Still only about 110-120° out of my vents, it's a 2015 Ram 2500 60,000 do have any suggestions
Mine only blows warm on the passenger side. Blows cold on the driver side. Mine is a reg cab. I’m at a loss
Does your Ram have dual climate control, or just single?
@@sinclairgarage4693 single
My 2013 ram same ,single climate hot passenger, cool drivers ?top of the lone junk ?I think I'm gonna tape some dryer ducting to passenger vents then I can aim the heat were ever I want ?on my nuts 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 frigging ram 💩
I also have an 09 ram 1500. I think I’m having similar issues but would like to hear your opinion. Is there a way to contact you?
Do you recommend replacing the coolant thru the radiator top or the coolant reservior?
Helped out a lot!!
I did the flush and blender doors next im going to replace heater core
Mines a 2013, I have same issue, Luke warm heat, you thinks it's the same thing heater core needs flushed?
I'm here looking for answers too. I have a 2014 with 45k on it. Only blowing warm air. Actuator works fine on the ac/heat. Coolant level is good, truck doesn't overheat. So it has to be the heater core right? Just odd I don't have many miles or hours on the truck.
Hi great video, can you tell me were I can find the actuator that controls the defrost air and dash please.
Drivers side bottom there should be two of them. It'll be the one closest to you.
Thanks for the video. I have a 2010 Ram 1500 and im getting plenty of heat through the passenger side but only luke warm if not ambient air on the drivers side. I replaced all 3 of the actuators behind the dash, I read somewhere that a heater core flush would fix this so I attempted that but I did not use any CLR I just used a garden hose and ran water through the ends of the hoses and alternated them till water was coming out nice and clear(never had any real junk come out). Do you think I need to do the CLR part is there something else im missing. Thanks.
If you are getting hot heat on passenger side, then I suspect your heater core is fine. I actually got 2 bad "dorman" type actuators from local parts house that were bad out of the box. I bought "mopar" brand from dealer and have been trouble free. The left side flow is controlled from the actuator located on the bottom center of the hvac unit. You can pull that actuator off and manually turn the blend door to rule out a bad actuator, or swap it with a known good one.
Did you fix your issue? I have the same thing going on and I've replaced all three actuators.
@@troymartin3639 have you fixed your issue? I have the same problem
@@joelviesca622 I have not. I flushed the heater core and it didn't do anything to help.
Did you ever fix your issue?
What does that piece behind the glove box do and what's it called again ?
It’s the blend door actuator. The heat/ac box has multiple actuators that move the blend doors inside. The blend doors control whether hot or cool air comes out of the vents and also if the air comes out of defrost vents or front dash vents. The specific one I replaced controls if you get hot or cool air.
@@sinclairgarage4693 reason I'm asking is bcuz when I change controls . , I hear clicking sounds. Will that fix it ?
That’s how mine started out. Then I lost all heat. Those actuators just have little plastic gears in them and they will break teeth until they no longer function. Just an FYI, depending on the trim level of your truck and year, there can be multiple and some are difficult to get too. Also, buy Mopar actuators, I replaced an AutoZone one that stripped after only having it installed for a year.
Sinclair Garage mine has been making that sound since I bought the truck in 09. Never had a problem with the heat
good video will this work on a 07 1500 and which hose do you put the clr through and was that distilled water to flush out clr also thx
You'll just want to use the hose that goes into the top of the Heater Core.You can use a garden hose with light pressure and flush the heater core of the CLR then use the distilled water/coolant mix to refill the cooling system.
Has your truck ever overheated while driving it but goes back to normal when idling before you did all this?
No, I never had that issue. I was due for a coolant flush and also had a lack of heat as well. No overheating issues
Any tricks to get the heater core hoses off? mine seem to be "baked" on and are not coming off.
I have super small diameter 90degree pointed pick tool (similar to what you will see in dentist office) that I've used to work the hoses loose in the past. Just carefully slide it between the hose & cast surface then work it around the whole inner circumference. I believe I picked it up at the local NAPA.
Hit it with your purse!
5 minutes talking about a $30 part
Talk too much and not enough showing
Not a Dodge
? What do you mean?
It's a Ram.
Actually, the split was late 2009. So the RAM name wasn’t official until the 2010 models. My Dodge is a 2009 before the split and rename.
Obviously the name don't matter thr both shit ?
U too slow
You talk to much vato