@@TheNeverendingProjectsList What do you mean "an issue you have to work on"? Just record the audio with a normal mono microphone, can use the same one you use for Skype/Discord/whatever, and put it on top of the video instead of the audio the camera's stereo microphones record. If you only have one channel - you don't have the stereo problem...
@@machinerin151 I'm using a Yeti Blue mic plugged into a IPhone to film with but I have the mic placed off the left side of frame. I've been wanting to rig a setup so the mic is above me and centered but maybe I can adjust the balance in the editing. I appreciate the tips though I'm new to all of this video stuff and haven't put to much effort into it as I never thought these videos would blow up like this. I might have to start upping my game though.
I don't fish anymore, though I remember it being relaxing so I should probably do it again (literally 20 yards from my back deck---my husband and all 400 of my sons like to fish, maybe why it stopped being relaxing), I was watching the video for the 3D printed molds but continued to watch just because you're likable... anyway, your little swimmers are awesome. So fun to watch, they wiggle just like they were designed to. Though I'm not new to 3D printing, I'm going to attempt some new work with printed molds which I've never attempted before. The designs for both the 4 piece and the irregular split gave me some inspiration and design help. Great video. Thanks!
Thanks for watching... you should get back into it and make it a family thing. I'm sure the kids would love some new baits and the possibility are endless with 3d Printers.
I am not a fishing person. I have not been a lake since I was 12 years old. But this is a really cool demonstration of some pretty advanced mold making techniques and I’m really impressed and inspired by it! Really cool work, man.
0:19 Skip the Title Intro 0:42 Skip to the CAD Stuff 3:57 Skip to the Reaper Injection Part 10:29 Skip to the 4 Tail Grub Injection Part 14:15 Skip to the Lure Action (Tub Test) Part 15:39 Skip to the Outro These molds can be found on Cults3d.com (just search for "sthone")
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList would you be interested in making a couple molds for me of the same bait. It's a discontinued bait and I only have 4 left. If I were to mail you one of them would you consider it.
This is amazing! I played with a 3 tail grub last year on my 3d printer . I just found you on Instagram today. The 4 tail is amazing! Great video sir. Cheers.
Awesome... I did a 3 tail version recently too but haven't printed it yet. It's a round type mold like the octoworm mold I showed on IG so it should be easier to clamp than this one. Thanks for watching.
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList very well done sir. I hit that follow and subscribe. Look forward to future videos. Appreciate you sharing the information. The round mold will be nice for the clamping. Enjoy the weekend sir.
Thanks for putting this out there. This is excellent! I have also been experimenting with 3D printing molds recently. I had not considered lures and curved split lines!
"There might be reasons for that, but let's find out." Lol I say that everytime I start a project. Great video! Awesome idea with the cuddlefish, that design is nice the flutter down action looks great for a vertical jig presentation. The 4 tail reminds me a bit of the helicopter lure roland martin used to sell back in the day, although yours has much better action and doesn't twist the line constantly lol.
I'm not into fishing (don't have the attention span) but this came up as a 3d printing suggestion and i have to drop a message to day. Damn dude, those moulds look good and i love the way the bait looks and moves. Nice work.
Thanks it's amazing the things you can do with 3D printers these days. I don't think there's one hobby that I'm into that I haven't printed something for.
This makes me wanna take up fishing again...just to add to the list of things to do with my printers! (Haven't been fishing since I was a teenager...so, over two decades? 😬) The swimming action on that 4-tail grub is awesome. You might try giving the molds a couple coats of primer. Besides sealing the surface, I imagine it'll function kinda like the gel coat on a fiberglassing mold and give you easier demolding... 🤔
Yeah someone recommended using high temp engine paint too... I guess it will give a smoother glossy finish to the baits also. I haven't tried it yet... maybe in a future video.
Very cool video! Definately will be on my todo list. You could have made the mold easier in Fusion360. 1. Do your bate model 2. Create a solid cube around the bate 3. "Combine" cut the bate from the mold 4. Add your cutting line and "Split body" 5. Add tabs and holes This way you will not be left with the strange pieces.
Awesome... Thanks for the tip. I'm still learning all the features, I'm sure there is a bunch of stuff I do not do the correct or easiest way. I appreciate the help.
You are one talented man! I appreciate the detail in teaching what you know... SO helpful. You really should look into marketing some of the ideas bud!
"sentinal grub" lol I like it. I wanted to get into 3d printing for a totally different reason. but this just makes me want to double up on hobbies even more. I wanted to try out some silicone molds and cast some lead and aluminum in the future. But I think I need to make a bigger work shop first.
dude i own a bait company and i would def. be worried about that 4 tail grub, omg i think it is a great bait hands down. Great job would love to work with you
Great Videos. I plan on showing my students in my High School Manufacturing Class. Well done on these. I have an idea for the 4 tail grub mould (all moulds actually). You could change the shape of the outside to a tapered cone and print an internal tapered cone to push it into. That should make clamping it evenly super easy as the mould could be pressed in like a Morse Taper. Just the thoughts of a random Machinist and Manufacturing Shop teacher. Keep up the good work.
That's actually not a bad idea... a few others have mentioned similar sleeve ideas. I've actually been printing newer one's with a round cylinder outer design so they are easily and quickly clamped up with hose clamps.
That's pretty darn cool. Good work man, you've made me want to try my hand at it. I normally print mechanical engineering things, but I'd love to add this to my fishing arsenal.
Wow good job!!! I’ve been keeping up with your videos and you have actually taught me a lot! I actually just ordered my 3d printer last night and will for sure be trying out some mold making! Thank you for the inspiration and keep it up!
Yeah always working on new stuff but don't always film everything and when I do the videos take awhile as I just do this for fun. Newest stuff is usually posted to insta or my website first.
Greetings, I have printed several of your molds, and I recommend that you print them with a resin printer and transparent resin, I also printed the molds in PETG and although at first they held the temperature of the plastisol, with the uses they ended up deforming and it was difficult for me to take off lure, which does not happen with resin molds.
Maybe its an idea to have one side of the mold open and fill it with cement so its not hollow and cant deform. Also you can skip most of the infill because its doesnt need to hold. Never saw someone try this before. But i guess you get a more even pressure if the mold isnt filled with air.
The four tailed one is awesome! Are you going to make a video about fishing with it as well? If you're not planning on doing a video about fishing - why not sending one or two to marling baits RUclips Channel to test them out 😁 Greetings from Germany😊
I've shown some of the stuff I make fishing but for this one it was too cold to fish. Marling is way to popular/busy to be fishing my stuff.... plus he'd probably just snag it in the river. (Sorry Nate LOL)
Whoa a mold with only one hole, how is that possible, guess having rough surfaces where air can escape in every direction is not a bad idea for home production.
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList I'll be closely following this. I've wanted to produce some especially for catfish/night fishing. It's been on my list for a while, I actually followed you today as I have been questioning if I could do injection molding for the face masks I'm making folks. I need a better material to hold tighter tolerances for the mask to the face. I print in PLA but don't like the flex material solutions, the plastics for worm making seem perfect for the cause and may produce better results. Love the 3d printing community. Thanks for your posts sir.
That might be worth looking into... I could probably make tapper walls too so they add some clamping force too when pressed on. It would definitely speed thing up for sure if it worked.
Thanks, your 4 part mold is a take on a problem I have, want to mold and vacuum cast tree miniatures. Glove molds aren't great, open face with a cut also doesn't really work. But this approach has promise
Really nice. You might want to invest in some 2 part silicone and high temp epoxy. Use the print as a positive in silicone, use that to make the final mold. Will last a lot longer.
You should check out Revamped Outdoors... that's how he does his molds. I'm sure the silicone molds will last longer but that process can get expensive too. I only make a enough baits for myself before moving on to the next bait but if I was trying to do production runs I'd probably go that route for sure.
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList yeah moldstar is like 40 bucks so.. but at least with that you only print 1 blank. So for the 4-6 sided ones you print one blank at a higher quality and use that. 1. Print 2. Mold negitive from silicone 3. Make dupes out of cheap epoxy 4. Continue as normal. Should take same/less time.
Cool baits. Why do you design each half separately rather than extruding a single block over the entire bait, combining bodies using the cut command with the bait as the tool and the block as the target, and then use it a split body command to slice the mold in half. It seems that it’s essentially the same amount of clicks and work each way, but not sure if one method has a benefit over the other?
Thanks... I kind of just learned on the fly but that is exactly how I've been doing things lately and its definitely a time saver. Hopefully others will see this comment and learn from it though.
That 4 tail grub is amazing!!! I was wondering if you still had links for your diy primer feeder. The one with the 9volt battery thet loads primer tubes.Any help is appreciated. Thank you.
I was going to attempt something just like this with clay, but then I started looking around and most people seem to 3d print PLA as a positive just like the item I want to be in clay in the end, then use that you make a plaster negative mold out of that 3d printed item, then use that for the clay mold. Not really sure why, seems like maybe because wet clay likes to dry better with a plaster mold because it sucks up some moisture better maybe. I was going to try it any direct PLA mold with clay, but have not had time.
Great video! I have not tried any 3d printed molds, I do plenty of mold making out of silicone, I was curious what kind of temps the molds seem to be able to stand up to and what your thoughts would be to as it related to using various resins in them. Either way I enjoyed the video and subscribed!
When using plastisol I let it cool to around 300°F before injecting it into the mold. Anything higher than that and it gets to close to the actual printing temp of the filament. I sent one of the grub molds to Chris from Worlds Worst Fishing to try and he forgot to let it cool and melted the mold pretty quickly. I do print them in PLA+ but using a higher temp filament like PETG or ABS might be a better idea. There's definitely a learning curve to using these types of printed molds. I've never actually shot an aluminum or silicone mold so I can't tell anyone the actual difference though.
Hey thanks for posting this. It's seriously impressive and entertaining too! If you don't mind my asking, what are you casting these in. I assumed it would be resin but you heated it up first which makes me think its a thermoplastic of some kind. Thanks again!
Thanks for watching. It's a product called Plastisol. I believe it's a PVC base plastic but making soft plastic lures is what its made for. I use brand from a company called Dead On Plastix.
I have not... if printed on its side it would probably require supports. Plus the red mold worked perfect except for the setting issue but even then the baits came out great.
@@NicksStuff Yeah your probably right. I actually like the texture of the lines though, I've actually started using .25 layer height on some molds to get more texture.
Also why don't you print in PETG, temps can handle 350 no problem. specs are 220c or 428f at the low end. I've loved using it for parts for my prusa's it's a little stringy but usually easy to fix with a lighter or heat gun.
I have a bunch of PETG I just haven't tried it for molds yet as the PLA has been working fine. PETG is a little stringy but mostly I print so much PLA I'm just to lazy to clean the nozzles between swapping filament types. I'll give it a go sooner or later though.
Supper underrated channel I’m a n ew subscriber and love the content. Do you make files for people to download and print for there own if so let me know
This video is pretty cool. What CAD program do you use? I learned how to use solidworks and really like the program. But I don't have a personal copy since it's so expensive 🙄. What program would you recommend that works similarly?
Thanks... I used Both Fusion 360 and Onshape in this video. Both are free to use and are very similar to Solidwork. You can however get the student addition of Solidworks for free by being a member of the EAA (Experimental Aircraft Association) which is $40 a year. I still use all three programs depending on what I'm doing.
4-tail grub is fire! I believe you can reduce the mold materials down to 50% (do X instead of + on the block cross section), or even more if you don't care the 90 degrees between the tails. Check out my video - ruclips.net/video/_N4eqrW0a7k/видео.html similar idea by adding additional wedges. Cheers!
Thanks... I'm sure that would work but I'm not sure if it would save that much material as most of it is just infill. I checked out your video and it's pretty cool and I like what you did with the little wedge for the fins I might have to give that a try... thanks for the tips.
Not really. I have a time lapse of me machining the parts and I show final assembly but that’s about it. I believe it’s part of my tube bait mold video.
Unlike say an aluminum mold with precision milled mating surfaces the 3d printed molds while relatively flat still probably have enough of a rough surface to let just enough air through the seams.
You should get a resin printer for your molds, the quality of the molds is a ton better and you would have close to no degradation of the molds as the resin handles heat very well!
I don't have an exact number on how long they last because there are to many factors that can be involved like filament brand, type, settings used, ect. But check out my other video ruclips.net/video/_FeUszxAK8s/видео.html I go over a few of the details that matter.
I do use worm oil on some of the molds like the tube baits (when I remember to use it) but on most of them I haven't actually had any problems with tearing. I let the baits cure for at least 15 minutes before trying to remove them. (I should probably mention this in one of my videos now that I think about it)
I've tried it before for other stuff but never on a mold... I'm sure it will work for molds too but I only use PLA+ for all of my molds. The fish don't care about layer lines so neither do I. 😆
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList lol I'm sure the fish don't care. I use it for other purposes, though. Other thing I was wondering. How soft is plastisil? Platinum cure silicone is crazy expensive these days. I was wondering if a softer plastisil could be used for molds.
I found it interesting that you went with four unique mold parts for the grub, rather than just 4 copies of one, rotated 90º each. Any advantages/disadvantages there?
All four pieces are identical but I numbered them individually so the mold is assembled together the same way every time. This way if there is any warping of the mold hopefully the split lines stay tight if they are aligned the same way as they came apart. (In theory anyway)
Cool stuff ! Could You (or someone) please say phrase to search for for thermometer like Yours ? "Laser thermometer" ?? Usually I get kitchen and forehead thermometers where theirs specs scale isn't that great, or really expensive professional ones.
Love the idea of printing your own molds, how long does your molds usually last? and do you have any plans on releasing the STL files on Thingiverse or on your website?
I haven't really tested the longevity of the molds as I only usually make enough for myself to fish with before moving onto the next project. I've shot one of the grub molds quite a few times though and it's holding up fine. The molds can warp a bit but still flatten enough when clamped. I'd say if your looking to do production stuff go with aluminum for sure. As for my files a lot of my stuff can be found here -> cults3d.com/en/users/sthone/creations
@@TheNeverendingProjectsListI just started using my printer to take some lure design I sketched up in Fusion 360 and print out a "positive mold box" and then pour Alumilites Vac 50 into it create solid negative molds that can be injected. But I never thought about just making the mold on the printer. always assumed it would melt when injecting.
@@zacharystanley5654 Yeah that's how Revamped Outdoors does it too and while it works great and probably last longer as a mold it is an extra step and added costs. Using directly printed molds does work but there are a lot of factors that come into play such as what materiel it's printed in and settings. I've been using PLA+ with good results but I do have to keep my injection plastics at or below 300°. Overall I've had some great results doing it though.
have you given any thoughts to adding the pegs post print and epoxy-ing them in? I would think it may allow you to sand the edges down to reduce flashing. Just a curiosity as I head down this path.
I have thought of this but a haven't tried it yet as the flashing hasn't been to bad. If I was selling baits I might worry about it more but I just make all this stuff for myself so I really don't mind a little bit of flashing.
I normally use eSun PLA+ for most of my stuff but if you are that concerned about heat you can print with something with a higher temp such as ABS or PETG. (I did test ePC once but the plastisol stuck to it like glue.)
All of that info is in the video but the cliff notes are.... The molds are printed in PLA+, .10 layer height, 4 outlines, 15 top layers, I inject the plastisol at no higher than 300°F.
Hi my name is Mikhail and me and my brother Robert love fishing. We make our own bait for fun. We just got a 3D printer and would love to see if we could get the design template for the baits
I'm thinking about buying some of these from a seller off ebay but I want to know how durable they are, how many lures can be made in one before it degrades ? I'm asking because it's just plastic itself and the lure bait plastic needs to be melted to a very high temp.
If it is a 3D printed mold you are looking at buying the durability is going to depend on the material it was printed with. I use PLA+ which is a lower temp material so the risk of melting it is going to be higher than say a mold made in ABS but.... There are also a lot of factors that going into printing that will also determine the durability such as wall and layer numbers, infill, ect. I do not have a exact number of lures that can be injected as I only usually print enough that I'm going to fish with personally. I'd honestly stay away from a 3D printed molds unless you are really knowledgeable about 3D printing. If you are printing the molds yourself it's one thing because if you screw it up you can just print another one.... that won't be the case if you just buy it from someone else. I'm sot sure if what kind of experience you have already with injecting plastisol but shooting 3D printed molds is a bit of a different ballgame. You have to shot at much lower plastisol temps and there is definitely a steep learning curve which brings me back to being able to print your own replacements if you melt one. Overall if the cost is cheap enough it might be worth it to you just to experiment with but in the long run it will probably be better just to spend the money on a aluminum (or even a silicone) mold (these you can always sell if you do not like the bait). I hope that helps a little if you have any other questions feel free to ask and I'll try to help.
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList cheers for the info, the guy I've bought one off said he's been using his for over 2 years and hasn't had a problem as long as you let the plastic cool to a lower temp of the melting point of the mold, he's sent some good info keeping me on the right track so I'll see what happens, if all fails I'll go with making my own silicone molds.
@@rouseyanglerholics I don't know much about resin printers but I don't see why they wouldn't. I know people have printed so of my other molds in resin and they work great from what I hear. Some of the high temp resins work a lot better than the PLA I normally print in.
I honestly don't know a lot about the various printers that are out there... When I started 3d printing (2014) I bought top of the line right from the start because I didn't want to constantly mess with the printer I just wanted to make stuff. These days printers have come a long way and even the cheaper ones produce great stuff. I'd look at the Creality3D line of printers as I've heard a lot of great things about them and they are pretty inexpensive these days.
Depends on your technical abilities. I would suggest an Ender 3 pro if you are technically capable or something like a Polaroid if you aren't. There are relatively good printers available for under 500USD nowadays.
Is this a RUclips channel about 3D printing fishing lures? Damn I love RUclips
That's pretty much what it's turned into now :) Thanks for watching.
My left ear enjoyed that video.
Use earphones but switch them and watch it again so the right ear can enjoy too. :) (thanks though I know this is an issue I have to work on.)
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList What do you mean "an issue you have to work on"? Just record the audio with a normal mono microphone, can use the same one you use for Skype/Discord/whatever, and put it on top of the video instead of the audio the camera's stereo microphones record. If you only have one channel - you don't have the stereo problem...
@@machinerin151 I'm using a Yeti Blue mic plugged into a IPhone to film with but I have the mic placed off the left side of frame. I've been wanting to rig a setup so the mic is above me and centered but maybe I can adjust the balance in the editing. I appreciate the tips though I'm new to all of this video stuff and haven't put to much effort into it as I never thought these videos would blow up like this. I might have to start upping my game though.
I don't fish anymore, though I remember it being relaxing so I should probably do it again (literally 20 yards from my back deck---my husband and all 400 of my sons like to fish, maybe why it stopped being relaxing), I was watching the video for the 3D printed molds but continued to watch just because you're likable... anyway, your little swimmers are awesome. So fun to watch, they wiggle just like they were designed to. Though I'm not new to 3D printing, I'm going to attempt some new work with printed molds which I've never attempted before. The designs for both the 4 piece and the irregular split gave me some inspiration and design help. Great video. Thanks!
Thanks for watching... you should get back into it and make it a family thing. I'm sure the kids would love some new baits and the possibility are endless with 3d Printers.
I am not a fishing person. I have not been a lake since I was 12 years old. But this is a really cool demonstration of some pretty advanced mold making techniques and I’m really impressed and inspired by it! Really cool work, man.
This is amazing, great to show how 3D printing can be incorporated into our daily lives. Keep up the good work!
So cool! Love the 4 piece mold, that grub is brilliant. Looking forward to seeing more of your videos. Thanks
My goodness, it looks like you've mastered this baiting process like some sort of . . . skilled lure-maker.
Eric Weatherby Thanks... I kind of just fake everything along the way. I’m not a professional.. I don’t even play one on TV. 🤣
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList
Dub in the sound of a kitchen timer "DING" just after pouring the rubber and just before demolding the lures.
I don't fish, but this is amazing! Some killer designing and I love the ingenuity!
That is awesome. They look so good that you'd thing they were from a fishing store. This just shows how amazing 3d printers can be
0:19 Skip the Title Intro
0:42 Skip to the CAD Stuff
3:57 Skip to the Reaper Injection Part
10:29 Skip to the 4 Tail Grub Injection Part
14:15 Skip to the Lure Action (Tub Test) Part
15:39 Skip to the Outro
These molds can be found on Cults3d.com (just search for "sthone")
Great job on those lures. More fish to fry might become a problem.
Awesome looking baits. That 4 tailed grub is sick.
Thanks
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList Any chance you would be interested in making a couple molds for me. Will pay you well.
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList would you be interested in making a couple molds for me of the same bait. It's a discontinued bait and I only have 4 left. If I were to mail you one of them would you consider it.
@@larrywigmore1243 Sorry... Unfortunately I just don't have the spare time in life to do custom stuff for others right now.
Super cool. Didn't know people made their own rubber baits. Great molds!
Also glad to see you figured out fusion 360. I also preferred solidworks for a while but fusion is pretty quick.
This is amazing! I played with a 3 tail grub last year on my 3d printer . I just found you on Instagram today. The 4 tail is amazing! Great video sir. Cheers.
Awesome... I did a 3 tail version recently too but haven't printed it yet. It's a round type mold like the octoworm mold I showed on IG so it should be easier to clamp than this one. Thanks for watching.
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList very well done sir. I hit that follow and subscribe. Look forward to future videos. Appreciate you sharing the information. The round mold will be nice for the clamping. Enjoy the weekend sir.
Cool video! Keep on Steady Craftin'
Thanks for putting this out there. This is excellent! I have also been experimenting with 3D printing molds recently. I had not considered lures and curved split lines!
"There might be reasons for that, but let's find out." Lol I say that everytime I start a project. Great video! Awesome idea with the cuddlefish, that design is nice the flutter down action looks great for a vertical jig presentation. The 4 tail reminds me a bit of the helicopter lure roland martin used to sell back in the day, although yours has much better action and doesn't twist the line constantly lol.
I'm not into fishing (don't have the attention span) but this came up as a 3d printing suggestion and i have to drop a message to day.
Damn dude, those moulds look good and i love the way the bait looks and moves. Nice work.
Thanks it's amazing the things you can do with 3D printers these days. I don't think there's one hobby that I'm into that I haven't printed something for.
Very cool grub bait design.
Very neat. Someone finally found an actually practical use for home 3D printers. My respect
Very helpful video! I’m learning more about CAD and this was a fun project to learn.
Thanks for watching.
I would definitely buy the 4piece grub mold. That thing would be awesome
This makes me want to take up fishing.
Catching a good fish is like opening presents on christmas morning.
Catching a big fish feels like you won the lottery.
don't bother, you'll spend more time shopping for tackle and complaining about the state raising the price on licenses (again) than actually fishing
Very comprehensive may thanks.
Thanks for watching.
4 tail grub idea is genius. I'm interested in a fishing video with these grubs. I need to get a injector, and I'll try these out.
This makes me wanna take up fishing again...just to add to the list of things to do with my printers! (Haven't been fishing since I was a teenager...so, over two decades? 😬) The swimming action on that 4-tail grub is awesome.
You might try giving the molds a couple coats of primer. Besides sealing the surface, I imagine it'll function kinda like the gel coat on a fiberglassing mold and give you easier demolding... 🤔
Yeah someone recommended using high temp engine paint too... I guess it will give a smoother glossy finish to the baits also. I haven't tried it yet... maybe in a future video.
Very cool video! Definately will be on my todo list. You could have made the mold easier in Fusion360.
1. Do your bate model
2. Create a solid cube around the bate
3. "Combine" cut the bate from the mold
4. Add your cutting line and "Split body"
5. Add tabs and holes
This way you will not be left with the strange pieces.
Awesome... Thanks for the tip. I'm still learning all the features, I'm sure there is a bunch of stuff I do not do the correct or easiest way. I appreciate the help.
Sweet! Good job man
You are one talented man! I appreciate the detail in teaching what you know... SO helpful. You really should look into marketing some of the ideas bud!
Thanks... I wish I had the drive for that kind of thing but finding the time to make the baits is hard enough LOL.
Sweet results! Thanks for sharing mate!
Looking forward to seeing you fish with these!
Great ideas, great molds. Only a suggestion: let try to spray PAM before injection, it will help the demolding, obtaining shining baits. Bye Cami
You are a magician!
Thanks..
Sentinel grub - I love it
Thanks.
"sentinal grub" lol I like it. I wanted to get into 3d printing for a totally different reason. but this just makes me want to double up on hobbies even more. I wanted to try out some silicone molds and cast some lead and aluminum in the future. But I think I need to make a bigger work shop first.
You should!
dude i own a bait company and i would def. be worried about that 4 tail grub, omg i think it is a great bait hands down. Great job would love to work with you
The files are available for sale if you want to make your own baits to use or sell.
Great Videos. I plan on showing my students in my High School Manufacturing Class. Well done on these.
I have an idea for the 4 tail grub mould (all moulds actually). You could change the shape of the outside to a tapered cone and print an internal tapered cone to push it into. That should make clamping it evenly super easy as the mould could be pressed in like a Morse Taper.
Just the thoughts of a random Machinist and Manufacturing Shop teacher. Keep up the good work.
That's actually not a bad idea... a few others have mentioned similar sleeve ideas. I've actually been printing newer one's with a round cylinder outer design so they are easily and quickly clamped up with hose clamps.
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList I'd love to see it... It should eliminate clamping all together.
That's pretty darn cool. Good work man, you've made me want to try my hand at it. I normally print mechanical engineering things, but I'd love to add this to my fishing arsenal.
You should give it a go... hardbaits are fun to make too. Check out my website too I've done a bunch of fishing related stuff.
Wow good job!!! I’ve been keeping up with your videos and you have actually taught me a lot! I actually just ordered my 3d printer last night and will for sure be trying out some mold making! Thank you for the inspiration and keep it up!
Nice.... You are in for some exciting times.... 3D printers just open up a world of possibilities when it comes to making all kinds of things.
Loved this video! Very informative. I've found PLA+ has a lower melting temp than regular PLA. Subscribed!
Thanks for the sub!
Some more projects to come ? I have the 3 and 4 tail grubbers !
Yeah always working on new stuff but don't always film everything and when I do the videos take awhile as I just do this for fun. Newest stuff is usually posted to insta or my website first.
Very cool nice work
Greetings, I have printed several of your molds, and I recommend that you print them with a resin printer and transparent resin, I also printed the molds in PETG and although at first they held the temperature of the plastisol, with the uses they ended up deforming and it was difficult for me to take off lure, which does not happen with resin molds.
I've actually been thinking about getting a resin printer.
Maybe its an idea to have one side of the mold open and fill it with cement so its not hollow and cant deform. Also you can skip most of the infill because its doesnt need to hold. Never saw someone try this before. But i guess you get a more even pressure if the mold isnt filled with air.
The four tailed one is awesome! Are you going to make a video about fishing with it as well? If you're not planning on doing a video about fishing - why not sending one or two to marling baits RUclips Channel to test them out 😁
Greetings from Germany😊
I've shown some of the stuff I make fishing but for this one it was too cold to fish. Marling is way to popular/busy to be fishing my stuff.... plus he'd probably just snag it in the river. (Sorry Nate LOL)
Well done dude 👌💪
Whoa a mold with only one hole, how is that possible, guess having rough surfaces where air can escape in every direction is not a bad idea for home production.
A little venting couldn't hurt (been doing that on my newer stuff) but yeah I'm sure these split lines let enough air out on 3d printed molds.
thats wonderful
Have you thought of adding in phosphorescent materials, basically you add the powder to your plastic mix, shine a flashlight on it then it lights up.
Funny you should mention that... I just injected some about 5 minutes ago it's curing as I type and should be in the next video I post.
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList I'll be closely following this. I've wanted to produce some especially for catfish/night fishing. It's been on my list for a while, I actually followed you today as I have been questioning if I could do injection molding for the face masks I'm making folks. I need a better material to hold tighter tolerances for the mask to the face. I print in PLA but don't like the flex material solutions, the plastics for worm making seem perfect for the cause and may produce better results. Love the 3d printing community. Thanks for your posts sir.
5:10 you can print tide square cups for 4peace one on buttom and on top with pour hole so no need clamps. Actually for both
That might be worth looking into... I could probably make tapper walls too so they add some clamping force too when pressed on. It would definitely speed thing up for sure if it worked.
Thanks, your 4 part mold is a take on a problem I have, want to mold and vacuum cast tree miniatures. Glove molds aren't great, open face with a cut also doesn't really work. But this approach has promise
I hope it works out for you... Thanks for watching.
that sentinal in yellow or white would slaughter wypers here in KS
merci beaucoup
Really nice. You might want to invest in some 2 part silicone and high temp epoxy. Use the print as a positive in silicone, use that to make the final mold. Will last a lot longer.
You should check out Revamped Outdoors... that's how he does his molds. I'm sure the silicone molds will last longer but that process can get expensive too. I only make a enough baits for myself before moving on to the next bait but if I was trying to do production runs I'd probably go that route for sure.
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList yeah moldstar is like 40 bucks so.. but at least with that you only print 1 blank. So for the 4-6 sided ones you print one blank at a higher quality and use that.
1. Print
2. Mold negitive from silicone
3. Make dupes out of cheap epoxy
4. Continue as normal.
Should take same/less time.
Can you show a video of you fishing with them ? That would be awesome
Hopefully as soon as I get back on the water... but don't get too excited I only catch dinks. :)
Cool baits. Why do you design each half separately rather than extruding a single block over the entire bait, combining bodies using the cut command with the bait as the tool and the block as the target, and then use it a split body command to slice the mold in half. It seems that it’s essentially the same amount of clicks and work each way, but not sure if one method has a benefit over the other?
Thanks... I kind of just learned on the fly but that is exactly how I've been doing things lately and its definitely a time saver. Hopefully others will see this comment and learn from it though.
That 4 tail grub is amazing!!! I was wondering if you still had links for your diy primer feeder. The one with the 9volt battery thet loads primer tubes.Any help is appreciated. Thank you.
It's on my website but there's no links to files or anything like that. It wasn't 3D printed it was milled from a kitchen cutting board 10+ years ago.
I was going to attempt something just like this with clay, but then I started looking around and most people seem to 3d print PLA as a positive just like the item I want to be in clay in the end, then use that you make a plaster negative mold out of that 3d printed item, then use that for the clay mold. Not really sure why, seems like maybe because wet clay likes to dry better with a plaster mold because it sucks up some moisture better maybe. I was going to try it any direct PLA mold with clay, but have not had time.
Check out Revamped Outdoors on YT he prints masters for molds and then pours the molds out of silicone which is a lot better alternative over plaster.
Great video! I have not tried any 3d printed molds, I do plenty of mold making out of silicone, I was curious what kind of temps the molds seem to be able to stand up to and what your thoughts would be to as it related to using various resins in them.
Either way I enjoyed the video and subscribed!
When using plastisol I let it cool to around 300°F before injecting it into the mold. Anything higher than that and it gets to close to the actual printing temp of the filament. I sent one of the grub molds to Chris from Worlds Worst Fishing to try and he forgot to let it cool and melted the mold pretty quickly.
I do print them in PLA+ but using a higher temp filament like PETG or ABS might be a better idea. There's definitely a learning curve to using these types of printed molds. I've never actually shot an aluminum or silicone mold so I can't tell anyone the actual difference though.
Steve.... whats goin on its Chief from Manchester Honda.. . Really love the vid!!!!
DUDE!!! Whats up ... this is so random you running across one of my videos.
Hey thanks for posting this. It's seriously impressive and entertaining too! If you don't mind my asking, what are you casting these in. I assumed it would be resin but you heated it up first which makes me think its a thermoplastic of some kind. Thanks again!
Thanks for watching. It's a product called Plastisol. I believe it's a PVC base plastic but making soft plastic lures is what its made for. I use brand from a company called Dead On Plastix.
try making an air pocket in the lure, might help
I’m not sure that I follow... help with what?
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList it will nose dive less
Is there a reason for why you don't print your molds on the side? Printers normally have a lot better resolution in the Z-plane
If I did that some of them would probably require supports. Being soft baits a lot of the detail is never going to show anyway.
Have you experimented with orientation?
I have the intuition the red mold would work well if printed on its side
I have not... if printed on its side it would probably require supports. Plus the red mold worked perfect except for the setting issue but even then the baits came out great.
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList I think the surface finish would be smoother (more even), though.
@@NicksStuff Yeah your probably right. I actually like the texture of the lines though, I've actually started using .25 layer height on some molds to get more texture.
Also why don't you print in PETG, temps can handle 350 no problem. specs are 220c or 428f at the low end. I've loved using it for parts for my prusa's it's a little stringy but usually easy to fix with a lighter or heat gun.
I have a bunch of PETG I just haven't tried it for molds yet as the PLA has been working fine. PETG is a little stringy but mostly I print so much PLA I'm just to lazy to clean the nozzles between swapping filament types. I'll give it a go sooner or later though.
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList it's really one of my favorite materials for structural prints.
Мне нравится. Молодец.
Спасибо
Supper underrated channel I’m a n ew subscriber and love the content. Do you make files for people to download and print for there own if so let me know
Thanks... A lot of my files can be found here - cults3d.com/en/users/sthone/creations
Please, make a fish lure with a real motion similar to SAVAGE GEAR.
This video is pretty cool. What CAD program do you use? I learned how to use solidworks and really like the program. But I don't have a personal copy since it's so expensive 🙄. What program would you recommend that works similarly?
Thanks... I used Both Fusion 360 and Onshape in this video. Both are free to use and are very similar to Solidwork. You can however get the student addition of Solidworks for free by being a member of the EAA (Experimental Aircraft Association) which is $40 a year. I still use all three programs depending on what I'm doing.
4-tail grub is fire! I believe you can reduce the mold materials down to 50% (do X instead of + on the block cross section), or even more if you don't care the 90 degrees between the tails. Check out my video - ruclips.net/video/_N4eqrW0a7k/видео.html similar idea by adding additional wedges. Cheers!
Thanks... I'm sure that would work but I'm not sure if it would save that much material as most of it is just infill. I checked out your video and it's pretty cool and I like what you did with the little wedge for the fins I might have to give that a try... thanks for the tips.
Great video... what 3d printer did you use?
I use Makergear M2's
Do you have a video of how to make the injector?
Not really. I have a time lapse of me machining the parts and I show final assembly but that’s about it. I believe it’s part of my tube bait mold video.
Thank you sir
Great video great molds. I have one question, how get these molds to be so perfect without an exit port for the trapped air?
Unlike say an aluminum mold with precision milled mating surfaces the 3d printed molds while relatively flat still probably have enough of a rough surface to let just enough air through the seams.
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList Thanks
You should get a resin printer for your molds, the quality of the molds is a ton better and you would have close to no degradation of the molds as the resin handles heat very well!
I have been thinking about it... maybe soon.
How long does the pla mold last? pla and plastisol have similar melting temperatures.
I don't have an exact number on how long they last because there are to many factors that can be involved like filament brand, type, settings used, ect. But check out my other video ruclips.net/video/_FeUszxAK8s/видео.html I go over a few of the details that matter.
good work , why u don't spray the walls with some lubricant or an oil to prevent tearing ?
I do use worm oil on some of the molds like the tube baits (when I remember to use it) but on most of them I haven't actually had any problems with tearing. I let the baits cure for at least 15 minutes before trying to remove them. (I should probably mention this in one of my videos now that I think about it)
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList Nice work man keep on
I've been looking for info on printing molds for silicone. Have you used vapor smoothing on abs to get rid of layer lines?
I've tried it before for other stuff but never on a mold... I'm sure it will work for molds too but I only use PLA+ for all of my molds. The fish don't care about layer lines so neither do I. 😆
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList lol I'm sure the fish don't care. I use it for other purposes, though. Other thing I was wondering. How soft is plastisil? Platinum cure silicone is crazy expensive these days. I was wondering if a softer plastisil could be used for molds.
@@Deathbysnusnu125 Plastisol is super soft compared to silicone you would not be able to use it for a mold.
What Cad software are you using? Thanks. Jeff
Nowadays I use mainly Fusion 360.
What's best for catching trout
Flies
I found it interesting that you went with four unique mold parts for the grub, rather than just 4 copies of one, rotated 90º each. Any advantages/disadvantages there?
All four pieces are identical but I numbered them individually so the mold is assembled together the same way every time. This way if there is any warping of the mold hopefully the split lines stay tight if they are aligned the same way as they came apart. (In theory anyway)
do you make custom molds for people that has a request?
Sorry unfortunately I really don't have time to do custom work for others.
Wouldnt be better to print that in 45º?
Cool stuff ! Could You (or someone) please say phrase to search for for thermometer like Yours ? "Laser thermometer" ?? Usually I get kitchen and forehead thermometers where theirs specs scale isn't that great, or really expensive professional ones.
I bought that one on Amazon for under $20 but its not available anymore but just search for "Non-contact Infrared Thermometer" and you'll find one.
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList Thank You and stay well in this weird Time.
Love the idea of printing your own molds, how long does your molds usually last? and do you have any plans on releasing the STL files on Thingiverse or on your website?
I haven't really tested the longevity of the molds as I only usually make enough for myself to fish with before moving onto the next project. I've shot one of the grub molds quite a few times though and it's holding up fine. The molds can warp a bit but still flatten enough when clamped. I'd say if your looking to do production stuff go with aluminum for sure. As for my files a lot of my stuff can be found here -> cults3d.com/en/users/sthone/creations
@@TheNeverendingProjectsListI just started using my printer to take some lure design I sketched up in Fusion 360 and print out a "positive mold box" and then pour Alumilites Vac 50 into it create solid negative molds that can be injected. But I never thought about just making the mold on the printer. always assumed it would melt when injecting.
@@zacharystanley5654 Yeah that's how Revamped Outdoors does it too and while it works great and probably last longer as a mold it is an extra step and added costs. Using directly printed molds does work but there are a lot of factors that come into play such as what materiel it's printed in and settings. I've been using PLA+ with good results but I do have to keep my injection plastics at or below 300°. Overall I've had some great results doing it though.
have you given any thoughts to adding the pegs post print and epoxy-ing them in? I would think it may allow you to sand the edges down to reduce flashing. Just a curiosity as I head down this path.
I have thought of this but a haven't tried it yet as the flashing hasn't been to bad. If I was selling baits I might worry about it more but I just make all this stuff for myself so I really don't mind a little bit of flashing.
do you know if hdpe can be easily injected molded?
I don't think so... it looks like the melting point is only around 180-200F so it probably wouldn't hold up to well.
Great video! What temp are you injecting to not deform the mold? Thanks!
With the PLA+ I use for the molds I let the plastisol cool to 300f or under before injection and use VERY little pressure on the injector.
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList Thank you very much!!! Really cool videos! So much usefull! subscribed!
Does it matter what kind/brand of PLA to use? I have concern about the heat.
I normally use eSun PLA+ for most of my stuff but if you are that concerned about heat you can print with something with a higher temp such as ABS or PETG. (I did test ePC once but the plastisol stuck to it like glue.)
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList Have you tried PLA? Would it work too? That's all I have now.
@@yauck1 Yes normal PLA should work fine just be sure to watch this video too before you start injecting. ruclips.net/video/_FeUszxAK8s/видео.html
Can you share your print settings?
Layerhight? Is it basic PLA?
What temperature do you put the rubber in the mold?
Greetings
All of that info is in the video but the cliff notes are.... The molds are printed in PLA+, .10 layer height, 4 outlines, 15 top layers, I inject the plastisol at no higher than 300°F.
Is that material as durable as store bought lures?
Yes it’s the same material.
can you provide links to products, thanks
all of my stuff can be found at cults3d.com/en/users/sthone/creations
Hi my name is Mikhail and me and my brother Robert love fishing. We make our own bait for fun. We just got a 3D printer and would love to see if we could get the design template for the baits
Most of my stuff can be found here -> cults3d.com/en/users/sthone/creations
sthone if we make some baits can we sell them to our local bait shop
@@mikhailmadaus7402 Yeah you can do anything you want with the baits you make from the molds.
Have you tried Cura's mold option?
I have never tried Cura but I maybe I'll look into it.
I'm thinking about buying some of these from a seller off ebay but I want to know how durable they are, how many lures can be made in one before it degrades ? I'm asking because it's just plastic itself and the lure bait plastic needs to be melted to a very high temp.
If it is a 3D printed mold you are looking at buying the durability is going to depend on the material it was printed with. I use PLA+ which is a lower temp material so the risk of melting it is going to be higher than say a mold made in ABS but.... There are also a lot of factors that going into printing that will also determine the durability such as wall and layer numbers, infill, ect. I do not have a exact number of lures that can be injected as I only usually print enough that I'm going to fish with personally.
I'd honestly stay away from a 3D printed molds unless you are really knowledgeable about 3D printing. If you are printing the molds yourself it's one thing because if you screw it up you can just print another one.... that won't be the case if you just buy it from someone else. I'm sot sure if what kind of experience you have already with injecting plastisol but shooting 3D printed molds is a bit of a different ballgame. You have to shot at much lower plastisol temps and there is definitely a steep learning curve which brings me back to being able to print your own replacements if you melt one.
Overall if the cost is cheap enough it might be worth it to you just to experiment with but in the long run it will probably be better just to spend the money on a aluminum (or even a silicone) mold (these you can always sell if you do not like the bait).
I hope that helps a little if you have any other questions feel free to ask and I'll try to help.
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList cheers for the info, the guy I've bought one off said he's been using his for over 2 years and hasn't had a problem as long as you let the plastic cool to a lower temp of the melting point of the mold, he's sent some good info keeping me on the right track so I'll see what happens, if all fails I'll go with making my own silicone molds.
Yeah once I learned the correct temps (around 300° in my case) I haven't had any major problems either... Good luck.
what plastic are the molds made of?
PLA+
Is the 4 tail grub mould plans available for purchase.?
The files to print your own can be purchased from cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/four-tail-grub-soft-plastic-injection-mold
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList will they work with a resin printer?
@@rouseyanglerholics I don't know much about resin printers but I don't see why they wouldn't. I know people have printed so of my other molds in resin and they work great from what I hear. Some of the high temp resins work a lot better than the PLA I normally print in.
@@TheNeverendingProjectsList ok great thanks
Can you recommend a printer to do this with around 500 or less?
I honestly don't know a lot about the various printers that are out there... When I started 3d printing (2014) I bought top of the line right from the start because I didn't want to constantly mess with the printer I just wanted to make stuff. These days printers have come a long way and even the cheaper ones produce great stuff. I'd look at the Creality3D line of printers as I've heard a lot of great things about them and they are pretty inexpensive these days.
Depends on your technical abilities. I would suggest an Ender 3 pro if you are technically capable or something like a Polaroid if you aren't. There are relatively good printers available for under 500USD nowadays.
is there a place i can find the stl for a super fluke style jerk bait. cant find it on the regular 3d print sites
Unfortunately I have not seen one either.
Круто!