When you're poor, you can't afford to throw faulty stuff in the garbage. That's how I learned to fix things...just the need. I remember fixing my mother's old toaster when I was 7, having opened it up seen a simple disconnected wire. I was addicted to repair after that.
I have concluded long ago that poverty is a life-building experience that everyone should have the opportunity to enjoy. Some lucky people are poor their whole lives (like the endlessly innovative Cubans under embargo). Poverty makes you smarter, but most of all, appreciative. A hacker is a person who sees a sticker reading, _"No User Serviceable Parts"_ and asks, _"Why?"_
People have criticized me for "wasting my time" fixing things I bought at the dollar store. They just don't get it. Getting the device to work again is just a happy side-effect of the process.
I made a repair today, I would not be able to find it out without your help. Our vent over the cooktop was broken. It buzzed hard with the relays if it had to do more than one at a time. I realised it was a power fault. Took out the PCB, and after cleaning 13 years of grease of, the caps was all gone. I got some new ones, changed them, and it works flawlessly now! thank you for all the entertaining, and useful videoes!
Ha ha. I've just bought a bunch of these and reverse engineered them. The controller chip is an NSA3182FT100, which is a dedicated PIR controller. The reason I reverse engineered I it was to keep the light on for longer. The controller has variable on-time on pin 6, although this is unconnected in mine. The datasheet shows it can be connected between a 1MOhm resistor to Vcc and a 1MOhm preset configured as a variable resistor. to Gnd. The sensitivity can also be adjusted in the same way on Pin 7. You're right though, they're really useful and only a couple of quid each on eBay. They're also useful to avoid the blinding experience of turning on the bathroom lights in the middle of the night.
This is great news. I wanted to make mine stay on longer too (it's above the cat bowls). Did you have success? Is there a formula for the ON time? Please let me know! :)
i really enjoyed this one BC. the pleasure i get from being able to follow along with what you are saying is frankly indescribable. all it took was 6 months of watching your vids daily. i mention this often, especially like now, when i am one over the eight, but your work has given me so much.
The motion sensing will come in handy to show you where zombies are lurking in the dark while you walk around the house after dark...provided they move once in a while and a coffee table at shin-height doesn't get you first... Great video, thanks Clive!
Nice little light. A few years ago, I installed parallel capacitors on strategic light switches in my house (as per your video at that time), and it's been perfect all this time, to provide night light.
Nice video! The light are similar to the once I got from Aliexpress, thought without PIR sensor. These have an even bigger fault! They swapped the + and - on the mirco usb port charging port. They also made "custom" cables, which also have swapped polarity! I have thrown away the cables out of safety and was able to mod the micro usb port pins so the polarity isn't swapped any more. 😊
CLIVE!!!!!! IDK how familiar you are with the UL standard 508A for industrial control panels but me and my shop just passed our Audit for it and are a 508 panel certified shop!!!! Watching your videos has genuinely been such a good resource for understanding some electrical stuff and i want to say thank you for all the insightful details and breakdowns you do!
I have a few of these from Aliexpress. They're really useful although out of the box the battery only lasted about a week. So I've replaced the LED resistor, which was 20 Ohm on mine, with around 60-70 Ohm to reduce brightness. I've also replaced the battery with a 523450 lithium cell (allegedly 1000mAh) which is probably the biggest you can fit in the case. They now last for months between recharges. Anyway, thanks for these videos to encourage modding electronics.
I have a few of these, scattered around the house like you said so you don't always have to turn the lights on. Upgraded them to 95 CRI LEDs because I could. I left some of them uncharged for too long and the cells puffed up so I had to get rid of the batteries but kept the lights incase I come across replacement cells.
Do you have disposable vapes laying around? Where I live in UK, they are now available from the Co-Op battery bin. They have a 550mAh lipo pouch cell inside and are easy to take apart. Try 2 or 3 or 4 cells in parallel. Which 95 cri LED did you use?
@@davadoff I'm in the Netherlands, don't see many vapes around but we do have e-waste recycling bins in some supermarkets, I'll have a look next time I'm there. I bought a few thousand Cree JE2835AWT LEDs at 3 cents each before they went obsolete, the new 95 CRI ones are a lot more expensive for whatever reason. Looks like Digikey still has some in stock.
I bought 6 strip versions of these from aliexpress and surprising all work , different colours, different lengths and different battery sizes. Just about to add 10 x 800 mah cells to the 50cm version of the light and thanks to your video have located the charge setting resistor. 👍
Yes, Clive sensor lights are a good idea. We have one outside the front door, one on the stairs and one in the garage. They work from 3x aaa. Unfortunately, they are not rechargeable. But as you suggested, it makes it safer and quieter than using light switches in the night. When I replace them I will look at rechargeable ones. Thanks for the investigation.
I similarly upgraded a set of Lidl solar garden lights, swapping the factory 100mAh AAA NiMH cell for a new Lidl 1000mAh one, and slathering petroleum jelly over all the exposed metal inside. They're depressingly simple inside: a standard four pin TO-94 chip, an inductor, the LED, solar cell, the battery and a switch. Noticeably brighter after the upgrade. Hoping they'll last at least one winter.
I would advice to bridge the crack via a wire, one thread of a flexible wire, as it's more durable. Temperature changes and mechanical forces will crack the solder.
I have a couple of the older ones...I use them in the bathroom & pantry...I really like them except I want them to stay on longer than the 17.5 seconds that it currently does. Is there any way to change the stay on time setting in the older ones?
I have a couple of these lights for my stairs that automatically lights up so you wouldn't trip and fall. It's a bit pricey but worth it. Getting Midnight snacks without my wife knowing is dangerous you know. 😂
How to fix anything from Temu 1) Take said item to your nearest WEEE bin 2) Place item in WEEE bin 3) Write 100 times on a piece of paper… “I must not order from Temu”
How I fix things from Temu. I don't buy things from Temu. But then again, I use to live in the Los Angeles area, and most Chinese Importers set up shops and warehouses around Valley Blvd, in the San Gabriel Valley. So I could just drive to "Proto-Temu" decades ago. Go to a 99-Ranch Market (not to be confused with a 99 Cent Only store) and pick up a durian fruit, to annoy the neighbors.
you could also replace the 1 meg Ohm resistor with a trimmer of the same value, for a sensitivity Adj. for the light sensor. but you would have to mount the trimmer on a small piece of perf board , and run wires over to it, and drill a hole in the side of the unit, for access with a small screw driver, and mark the sensitivity scale.
10.20ish. i am unfamiliar with the phrase "quiescent current" bugger! - chatgpt says "Quiescent current, often abbreviated as IQ or simply Iq, refers to the steady-state or idle current consumed by an electronic device or circuit when it is in a quiescent or inactive state. In simpler terms, it's the current that flows through a device or circuit when it's not actively performing any work or processing any signals."- wow that's interesting. thanks
Clive i know you like your ceramic style iron, but you should look into getting one of the many T12 stations that are available, IDK if you have tried one out or not?
I have such a lamp. After upgrading the cell the LEDs became dimmer over time, then they started to flicker and now the lamp just stays on forever completely ignoring the infrared sensor. No clue what could have caused this behaviour...
I'm curious Clive about why the dusk sensor doesn't detect the lamp's own light and shut it off. Is daylight so much brighter than the LED light that might be reflected back?
I am not entirely sure, but I believe those passive infrared sensors are based on a timer. It will turn on for a fixed length of time (usually around 10-30 seconds or thereabouts), then go out, then re-trigger again after it has gone out. Or perhaps if it continues to detect movement, it will stay on and only check the dusk sensor again after it has gone out.
It might turn off the PIR when light sensor is active to save energy. Got similar lights, but no switch. Inspired to buy by your video, so i do not have to switch on 3 different lights when i go to piss at night. TY.
So how do you think this flaw originated? Was something dropped on the circuit board during manufacturing or assembly? Or was it a flaw in the circuit board printing process?
I wonder if the motion sensor is turned off when it detects that it's light and is charging? I could see using the motion detector on some kind of wake up interrupt and not wanting it to keep waking the main processor all the time all day to improve battery charging and reduce power consumption.
I use bar led lights above the 3 doors upstairs, like you said, very handy when you come out a room and they all sense you and light up almost at the same time :D adds a very futuristic element to needing a pee in the middle of the night and seeing as the wall switch is on the wall opposite my bedroom, the lights save me fumbling around in the dark looking for it ha ha Yeah, afraid I'm also guilty of falling into the hole of ending up fixing faulty goods on receipt lol It does make you wonder the amount of returns or binned items for 90% of the time an easy to fix problem such as loose battery terminals or a broken wire or a gap in a track on the board like yours or a bad solder job on the mosfets in my dehumidifier grrrr
Presumably production QC was just "does the charge light illuminate, and does the three position switch work?" For a small, cheap item such as that I don't think they would be interested in testing "actual" charging rates, hence it "Passed QC", for the tests they thought were important.
A scrap piece of snipped 24ga laying on the floor for the bridge, they're always around my bench it seems if not in the bottom of my foot😒 Thanks Clive!
I love them, they indeed light the path in the dark, never have to switch the lights in the staircase on at night anymore. I should replace the lips battery though.
When you challenged us to look at the board, I stopped it and looked. I saw the R11 pins with no resistor between them. You didn't mention in the video what it was, or rather what it would do if a resistor was put in that spot. Why is the resistor missing? And why do they even have a spot like that on the board if they're not using it with a component?
Nah, the board can be removed with a slight flexing of the walls to allow the USB socket to pop out/in, just put the switch into the slide first, squeeze the wall together & the USB socket drops into place.
I would guess that the resistor value on the dusk sensor was chosen to compensate for the sensor seeing light from the LEDs scattered and reflected from the diffusing cover. The wrong value would result in the poor thing turning itself on and off continuously. I wonder how quickly it can oscillate? Some years ago, when a friend and I learned that LEDs can also detect light, he tried to build a data transmission device using LEDs on both ends (yeah, he basically invented the optocoupler but didn’t know enough to patent it). He found out that they can transmit faster than they can receive (at least the ones he used had those limits). Ever since then I’ve wondered how many devices that have microprocessors coupled to LEDs used as light sensors use that capability as a hidden data input or programming port like those rave badges you showed us a while back.
What are those four wires sticking up from the board, cruciform about the PIR sensor? They remind me of ion discharge points-maybe some sort of attempt at faking that?
I have the older ones as well. I bodged an 18650 cell/holder on one so I can swap out the cell instead of having to put it on charge for several hours.
Got something similar from Poundland that ran off 4 AAA, so I patched a USB cable in and power it from a small powerbank. Handy for a small corridor where the lightswitch is in the middle.
Thanks for mentioning your club of clever people, I dreamily thought I was one of them for a second but then I blinked and came back to reality. I’m afraid I’m about as technically minded as a freshly boiled new potato but I do watch every one of your vids. I’ve almost learned the word milliamp or is it mill-amp but have no idea -in-life what it’s used for. Talking of potatoes, is it true that a potato can charge something? If so can it still charge something after it’s been boiled? (Genuine question, not half a joke) Rob
You'll gradually pick up more and more electronic understanding over time. The potato battery is just a gimmick. The real work is done by the two different metal electrodes. The potato just acts as a wet conductor between them.
I bought four of those and one of them was faulty out of the box. I replaced the battery with a small round one from a Vape. Too big to go underneath, but fitted at the side of the board ok.
This is so weird, our worlds are aligned! Just yesterday I also swapped to a unused 1000 mAh Nokia cell phone cell for longer time between charges. I also changed to 2200 ohm for 450 mA charging knowing the formula in the LTH7 datasheet is I = 1000/R2. Now I want to know how to make the "ON" time longer. Did you figure that out Clive?
On time may be locked in software, or it might be controllable via one of the unused pins. Some of these chips allow sensitivity, light detection and time delay to be set by using a potential divider between the positive and negative supply to a dedicated pin.
For easier solder bridging you can tin both pads as normal then swap to your trashiest lead free solder and a cooler iron temperature. It is stickier and with much higher surface tension so will 'stretch' much further - it's about the only use I have for lead-free solder!
i wonder if that's what happening with some handheld jogging lights that I bought. One of them works, the other stopped working a while back. It works when I plug it into the charger, but doesn't when I pull it off. Plugging it into a tester shows no amps when just the broken one is plugged in, but around .60 A when turned on. The other one draw the same when turned on, but around .10 A when charging. So I bet it's the same problem. Or just a dodgy battery.
Magic indeed. I can't figure out he was able to realize what the fault was. I looked at the defect three times, and still can't figure out how he realized what the problem was. Of course I am this channel's village idiot and don't understand much of what says, but I understand what the problem was, but can't figure out how he saw what the problem was. It was a good video. He is right that the average person would use it till the went flat, and would just throw it away. I would have. Hell, I can't figure out why text assistance program works when I am texting on message and replying to comments, but not when I am commenting. I am a lousy speller, and really rely on the text assitance program. Why it works when I am texting on message and replying to comments, but not when I am commenting.
I have a few of these (not the exact same model) and some of them likes to overdischarge the battery and then it can not charge it, LED stays green, or stays red, or flashes, or nothing. And I have to pop the cover and give it a boost with a little charger module.
You could put a shotky diode between the battery and the circuit to the right in the video (9:05) to drop some voltage so it cuts out sooner. Easiest way would be to solder one in across the switch, bypassing it. Or make use of the diode already there by the switch in the diagram - cut the track between diode left hand side and the controller IC should work (ON mode will become the same as PIR mode except through a diode).
Since there is no use having a light during the day, it switches the IR motion detector off until dark is detected by the photo-resistor! I wouldn't bother, since most IR motion detectors have a quiescent current of less than 50uA. A schottky diode has twice the reverse leakage!
Re your last comment. I've a few - much older than this around the hous for niht time walking about - toilet - but I swapped out the leds for red ones.
It may have an infrared mode where you can turn it on and off by waving your hand in front of the light instead of using a switch. It's for when you've got work gloves on.
I'm not technical, so I'm just going to make a kinda stupid question here... xD Semi related to the video but not by much I guess. Say you have a totally new house or apartment to work from scratch. Does it make much sense to wire the whole thing to push something like 12V DC, or something like USB-C power, for lighting, instead of mains? Like, instead of having each single LED light with it's own step down transformer circuit and whatnot, you centralize everything separately, kinda like in a circuit break box or utility box, and only send DC power to fixtures, plus switches and whatnot. Perhaps have a portion of the lights be removable with a battery so you can use as a flashlight or something, though I can see that being kind of a fire hazard. xD And then, if that's even a good idea, you'd of course still have outlets with mains for all the stuff that requires it... but it seems that increasingly we get almost half of electronics that we plug in only needing at most some USB level power. Smartphone charging, some newer laptops, portable LCD screens, some battery powered tools and stick vacuums, speakers, etc etc. Or this is just a horrible idea that would end up in death or fire? xD
Can you or anyone tell me which UV light is used in those machines that will harden the gel nail polish when you stick your fingers in that machine? I hope it's not the one that can damage skin I think it's UV C light that can harm skin so I hope that's not in those machines or the ones that can make resin set hard when it's UV resin?
The nail units usually use UVA which is just next to the blue end of the spectrum. UVC wouldn't work for this. The issue with light cured nail lacquer isn't the light. It's sensitisation of the skin caused by methacrylate components. It can lead to a long allergy to them.
I bought a tube like sensor lamp from temu. Plugged in for charging Nothing Turned on Nothing Opened it up battery was fully charged All good I tried to power extremely using another battery Nothing Then I just tested the leds one by one And then I powered all with direct connection Then all of a sudden the thing started working Charging and working I don't know what happened Or what did I do
I have had odd things like that happen while doing some routine trouble shooting . I have no Idea what changed, but it works after! [ twilight zone theme ]
I've been using the Mr. Beams MB530 motion sensor lights for 7+ years now. Runs on 3x C cells. Comes on as a dim glow when dark, goes to full bright on motion. I get at least a year on one set of batteries. They've been great during power outages.
The main problem of course with getting a dead on arrival product and trying to fix it. Is remembering that for just looking. You may never be able to return it. And say it wasn't your fault. But for cheap stuff. 🤷 May as well have a go. 👍
When you took the lid off, the first thing I thought was that it looks a lot better than I expected! Then you started showing the track positions with the notch taken out, and I took it all back! This is what you get when you underpay children to assemble your products in horrible work environments... And they are so cheap, and difficult to return, that most consumers don't care! They just toss them in the bin! EDIT spelling
When you've already been inside an item why go through the pretense of unboxing it, and sometimes then "guessing" at what is inside, you know full well what is inside 😛 the fun part is discovering these things with you!
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
i am always so proud when BC says "technical people, like you and I". thanks mate.
BC in my language slang means bhench*d
Our motto is “No User Serviceable Parts Inside? I’ll be the judge of that!”
I always laugh when I see that. Then proceed to open it anyway :) @@markfergerson2145
Well, "technically" I'm a person, but that is where the similarity between Big Clive and myself begins, and ends! 🤣
@agustinusreynaldi7101 So do I, but the problem is, it usually STAYS faulty! 👎🤣
When you're poor, you can't afford to throw faulty stuff in the garbage. That's how I learned to fix things...just the need. I remember fixing my mother's old toaster when I was 7, having opened it up seen a simple disconnected wire. I was addicted to repair after that.
I just fixed a chinese 3D moon shaped light whose micro usb jack took a hit, soldered it with a 6 inch nail heated on a gas stove.
@@shauryasharma4579When all else fails, use 6" nails... :)
I have concluded long ago that poverty is a life-building experience that everyone should have the opportunity to enjoy. Some lucky people are poor their whole lives (like the endlessly innovative Cubans under embargo). Poverty makes you smarter, but most of all, appreciative.
A hacker is a person who sees a sticker reading, _"No User Serviceable Parts"_ and asks, _"Why?"_
Poor or living behind the iron curtain with limited access to spare parts.
Necessity brings creativity! 😉
A bit of poverty makes you appreciate things a lot more.
People have criticized me for "wasting my time" fixing things I bought at the dollar store. They just don't get it. Getting the device to work again is just a happy side-effect of the process.
I made a repair today, I would not be able to find it out without your help. Our vent over the cooktop was broken. It buzzed hard with the relays if it had to do more than one at a time. I realised it was a power fault. Took out the PCB, and after cleaning 13 years of grease of, the caps was all gone. I got some new ones, changed them, and it works flawlessly now! thank you for all the entertaining, and useful videoes!
They used TWO screws to hold it in place? You must have bought the Lavish Ultra Deluxe version.
I guess the 2 screws were the most expensive components of the entire device (after the magnets).
Ha ha. I've just bought a bunch of these and reverse engineered them. The controller chip is an NSA3182FT100, which is a dedicated PIR controller. The reason I reverse engineered I it was to keep the light on for longer. The controller has variable on-time on pin 6, although this is unconnected in mine. The datasheet shows it can be connected between a 1MOhm resistor to Vcc and a 1MOhm preset configured as a variable resistor. to Gnd. The sensitivity can also be adjusted in the same way on Pin 7. You're right though, they're really useful and only a couple of quid each on eBay. They're also useful to avoid the blinding experience of turning on the bathroom lights in the middle of the night.
This is great news. I wanted to make mine stay on longer too (it's above the cat bowls). Did you have success? Is there a formula for the ON time? Please let me know! :)
Did you color-in the burn squiggle (from the plastic welder) with silver pen?
A slight dusting with talc.
So in the world that we live in today we have very few heroes to look up to. And I've got to say you're my hero!
Same. He’s an inspiration
i really enjoyed this one BC. the pleasure i get from being able to follow along with what you are saying is frankly indescribable. all it took was 6 months of watching your vids daily. i mention this often, especially like now, when i am one over the eight, but your work has given me so much.
The motion sensing will come in handy to show you where zombies are lurking in the dark while you walk around the house after dark...provided they move once in a while and a coffee table at shin-height doesn't get you first...
Great video, thanks Clive!
Nice little light. A few years ago, I installed parallel capacitors on strategic light switches in my house (as per your video at that time), and it's been perfect all this time, to provide night light.
Nice video!
The light are similar to the once I got from Aliexpress, thought without PIR sensor.
These have an even bigger fault!
They swapped the + and - on the mirco usb port charging port. They also made "custom" cables, which also have swapped polarity!
I have thrown away the cables out of safety and was able to mod the micro usb port pins so the polarity isn't swapped any more. 😊
CLIVE!!!!!! IDK how familiar you are with the UL standard 508A for industrial control panels but me and my shop just passed our Audit for it and are a 508 panel certified shop!!!!
Watching your videos has genuinely been such a good resource for understanding some electrical stuff and i want to say thank you for all the insightful details and breakdowns you do!
Congratulations.
I have a few of these from Aliexpress. They're really useful although out of the box the battery only lasted about a week.
So I've replaced the LED resistor, which was 20 Ohm on mine, with around 60-70 Ohm to reduce brightness. I've also replaced the battery with a 523450 lithium cell (allegedly 1000mAh) which is probably the biggest you can fit in the case. They now last for months between recharges.
Anyway, thanks for these videos to encourage modding electronics.
I have a few of these, scattered around the house like you said so you don't always have to turn the lights on. Upgraded them to 95 CRI LEDs because I could. I left some of them uncharged for too long and the cells puffed up so I had to get rid of the batteries but kept the lights incase I come across replacement cells.
Do you have disposable vapes laying around? Where I live in UK, they are now available from the Co-Op battery bin. They have a 550mAh lipo pouch cell inside and are easy to take apart. Try 2 or 3 or 4 cells in parallel.
Which 95 cri LED did you use?
@@davadoff I'm in the Netherlands, don't see many vapes around but we do have e-waste recycling bins in some supermarkets, I'll have a look next time I'm there. I bought a few thousand Cree JE2835AWT LEDs at 3 cents each before they went obsolete, the new 95 CRI ones are a lot more expensive for whatever reason. Looks like Digikey still has some in stock.
I bought 6 strip versions of these from aliexpress and surprising all work , different colours, different lengths and different battery sizes. Just about to add 10 x 800 mah cells to the 50cm version of the light and thanks to your video have located the charge setting resistor. 👍
Yes, Clive sensor lights are a good idea.
We have one outside the front door, one on the stairs and one in the garage. They work from 3x aaa. Unfortunately, they are not rechargeable. But as you suggested, it makes it safer and quieter than using light switches in the night. When I replace them I will look at rechargeable ones. Thanks for the investigation.
5:20 An ideal opportunity to use a 0 Ohm resistor! 😂
I similarly upgraded a set of Lidl solar garden lights, swapping the factory 100mAh AAA NiMH cell for a new Lidl 1000mAh one, and slathering petroleum jelly over all the exposed metal inside.
They're depressingly simple inside: a standard four pin TO-94 chip, an inductor, the LED, solar cell, the battery and a switch. Noticeably brighter after the upgrade. Hoping they'll last at least one winter.
bridge the switch,. will last the life of the battery
@@voltare2amstereo True, but the switch is not what corroded on the ones that were out last winter. That was the spring battery terminals.
@@nowster BC does the tape over the top which helps prevent ingress too
I would advice to bridge the crack via a wire, one thread of a flexible wire, as it's more durable. Temperature changes and mechanical forces will crack the solder.
yep
That could be said about any solder on the board and the traces, too.
I have a couple of the older ones...I use them in the bathroom & pantry...I really like them except I want them to stay on longer than the 17.5 seconds that it currently does.
Is there any way to change the stay on time setting in the older ones?
Some of them have a resistor that can change the timing.
I've changed the timing on the units that use the BISS0001 chip.
The highest like-per-view percentage I've ever seen. Kudos to you big Clive 👍👍👍
I spammed like
A yes, Temu, when Ali Express is too high standards for you.
Thing is they get most of their stuff from Ali's vendors and just heavily market it, while Ali does little to zero marketing.
I have a couple of these lights for my stairs that automatically lights up so you wouldn't trip and fall. It's a bit pricey but worth it. Getting Midnight snacks without my wife knowing is dangerous you know. 😂
yet you will always find that creaky floorboard! - , 'The quieter we try to be, the more noise we seem to make' lol '
@@jrsc01. So true. 😂
@@jrsc01.so true, i remember trying to be quiet late at night when i lived with my parents
I use these in a few cupboards with upgraded batteries.
They work a treat.
Ah nice a new light video! Repair videos are probably my favorite. Stills looks cheap
1:33 Big Clive causally plugging in a USB cable correctly THE FIRST TIME!!!!
The sides look different.
How to fix anything from Temu
1) Take said item to your nearest WEEE bin
2) Place item in WEEE bin
3) Write 100 times on a piece of paper…
“I must not order from Temu”
The lekky stuff might be shite...but the lingerie is excellent.
How I fix things from Temu. I don't buy things from Temu.
But then again, I use to live in the Los Angeles area, and most Chinese Importers set up shops and warehouses around Valley Blvd, in the San Gabriel Valley. So I could just drive to "Proto-Temu" decades ago.
Go to a 99-Ranch Market (not to be confused with a 99 Cent Only store) and pick up a durian fruit, to annoy the neighbors.
you could also replace the 1 meg Ohm resistor with a trimmer of the same value, for a sensitivity Adj. for the light sensor.
but you would have to mount the trimmer on a small piece of perf board , and run wires over to it, and drill a hole in the
side of the unit, for access with a small screw driver, and mark the sensitivity scale.
10.20ish. i am unfamiliar with the phrase "quiescent current" bugger! - chatgpt says "Quiescent current, often abbreviated as IQ or simply Iq, refers to the steady-state or idle current consumed by an electronic device or circuit when it is in a quiescent or inactive state. In simpler terms, it's the current that flows through a device or circuit when it's not actively performing any work or processing any signals."- wow that's interesting. thanks
Just what I wanted - sophisticated circuitry on a broken product.
You could make a 24 hour marathon: Fixing random DOA Temu tech.
Clive i know you like your ceramic style iron, but you should look into getting one of the many T12 stations that are available, IDK if you have tried one out or not?
I’m sure he would if he needed to buy a new station. Clive leads a frugal life otherwise.
I've looked at then in the past. I should try one.
A brand new product from TEMU that wont work Im SHOCKED (not)..🤣🤣
interesting video 2x👍
"People to the bright. People go out" will be a lyric in a song after this
Good job Big Clive!👍👍👍
I have such a lamp. After upgrading the cell the LEDs became dimmer over time, then they started to flicker and now the lamp just stays on forever completely ignoring the infrared sensor. No clue what could have caused this behaviour...
It's probably because the LEDs are being driven too hard. If they start flickering then it may upset the sensor due to the fluctuating power.
I'm curious Clive about why the dusk sensor doesn't detect the lamp's own light and shut it off. Is daylight so much brighter than the LED light that might be reflected back?
I am not entirely sure, but I believe those passive infrared sensors are based on a timer. It will turn on for a fixed length of time (usually around 10-30 seconds or thereabouts), then go out, then re-trigger again after it has gone out. Or perhaps if it continues to detect movement, it will stay on and only check the dusk sensor again after it has gone out.
Once it is triggered by the PIR sensor, it ignores the ambient light sensor for the given time.
They may just ignore the dusk sensor while lit. The classic BISS0001 PIR chip has options to do that.
It might turn off the PIR when light sensor is active to save energy. Got similar lights, but no switch. Inspired to buy by your video, so i do not have to switch on 3 different lights when i go to piss at night. TY.
When the box read "Body Induction Lamp" I was expecting it to be a wannabe medical red light lamp. Slightly disappointed that it isn't.
still amazed that Temu even reaches the far depths of IoM whereas most deliveries cant deliver to the IoM!
So how do you think this flaw originated? Was something dropped on the circuit board during manufacturing or assembly? Or was it a flaw in the circuit board printing process?
It looks like something has chipped it. Probably after processing.
I wonder if the motion sensor is turned off when it detects that it's light and is charging? I could see using the motion detector on some kind of wake up interrupt and not wanting it to keep waking the main processor all the time all day to improve battery charging and reduce power consumption.
I use bar led lights above the 3 doors upstairs, like you said, very handy when you come out a room and they all sense you and light up almost at the same time :D adds a very futuristic element to needing a pee in the middle of the night and seeing as the wall switch is on the wall opposite my bedroom, the lights save me fumbling around in the dark looking for it ha ha
Yeah, afraid I'm also guilty of falling into the hole of ending up fixing faulty goods on receipt lol It does make you wonder the amount of returns or binned items for 90% of the time an easy to fix problem such as loose battery terminals or a broken wire or a gap in a track on the board like yours or a bad solder job on the mosfets in my dehumidifier grrrr
got a few of these, very useful at night.
Presumably production QC was just "does the charge light illuminate, and does the three position switch work?" For a small, cheap item such as that I don't think they would be interested in testing "actual" charging rates, hence it "Passed QC", for the tests they thought were important.
When switched to full on, it doesn't need the PIR detector. Perhaps, the diode allows them to distinguish the two switch positions?
A scrap piece of snipped 24ga laying on the floor for the bridge, they're always around my bench it seems if not in the bottom of my foot😒 Thanks Clive!
Use a pink highlighter on the inside of the defuser lens. Then reinstall it. Big Clive it.
I love them, they indeed light the path in the dark, never have to switch the lights in the staircase on at night anymore. I should replace the lips battery though.
Isn't the iSesamo supposed to be more rugged than the clones, and thus last for a lot more of your rounds of destructive entry?
It is. My first one lasted years.
When you challenged us to look at the board, I stopped it and looked. I saw the R11 pins with no resistor between them. You didn't mention in the video what it was, or rather what it would do if a resistor was put in that spot. Why is the resistor missing? And why do they even have a spot like that on the board if they're not using it with a component?
The blank resistor position is odd. It doesn't really make sense.
Looks like they used brute force to install the PCB into the housing at the factory.
Nah, the board can be removed with a slight flexing of the walls to allow the USB socket to pop out/in, just put the switch into the slide first, squeeze the wall together & the USB socket drops into place.
I always wonder what caused the little squiggly line on the desk?
See a recent video about a plastic welder.
I would guess that the resistor value on the dusk sensor was chosen to compensate for the sensor seeing light from the LEDs scattered and reflected from the diffusing cover. The wrong value would result in the poor thing turning itself on and off continuously. I wonder how quickly it can oscillate?
Some years ago, when a friend and I learned that LEDs can also detect light, he tried to build a data transmission device using LEDs on both ends (yeah, he basically invented the optocoupler but didn’t know enough to patent it). He found out that they can transmit faster than they can receive (at least the ones he used had those limits). Ever since then I’ve wondered how many devices that have microprocessors coupled to LEDs used as light sensors use that capability as a hidden data input or programming port like those rave badges you showed us a while back.
The chip can ignore the light sensor while the LEDs are on.
"It's such a tight fit."
In the jungle, the mighty jungle
The lion sleeps tonight.
😊
😳
What are those four wires sticking up from the board, cruciform about the PIR sensor? They remind me of ion discharge points-maybe some sort of attempt at faking that?
Those are just the legs of the PIR sensor that they didn't bother to trim after soldering it in place
Why is that LED resistor such a low value (3.6Ω)? I am trying to figure out how that would make 50mA go through all those LEDs.
The LEDs are all in parallel. Whatever current is passed by the resistor is shared amongst the LEDs.
I have used the exact same thing to build my eagle wall light 3d printed
It's awesome for diy use since it's easily possible to ass a bigger battery
I have the older ones as well. I bodged an 18650 cell/holder on one so I can swap out the cell instead of having to put it on charge for several hours.
Got something similar from Poundland that ran off 4 AAA, so I patched a USB cable in and power it from a small powerbank. Handy for a small corridor where the lightswitch is in the middle.
Maybe the reason it has 2 inputs ot the PIR is to turn the PIR circuit off when the lights are on?
What is the story of the little wormy-shaped burn on his desk? Sorry, I was in Riker's for a couple of years and missed a bunch of episodes.
See the plastic welder video.
How long can you hold your breath? About as long as it takes BC to bridge a gap with solder.
Thanks for mentioning your club of clever people, I dreamily thought I was one of them for a second but then I blinked and came back to reality. I’m afraid I’m about as technically minded as a freshly boiled new potato but I do watch every one of your vids. I’ve almost learned the word milliamp or is it mill-amp but have no idea -in-life what it’s used for. Talking of potatoes, is it true that a potato can charge something? If so can it still charge something after it’s been boiled? (Genuine question, not half a joke) Rob
You'll gradually pick up more and more electronic understanding over time. The potato battery is just a gimmick. The real work is done by the two different metal electrodes. The potato just acts as a wet conductor between them.
I bought four of those and one of them was faulty out of the box.
I replaced the battery with a small round one from a Vape.
Too big to go underneath, but fitted at the side of the board ok.
I think there is room for both batteries inside. You cold use both of them to increase the capacity even more.
I've got a few of these from temu. Haven't had a problem. Bigger battery is a good idea
Hi Clive, i have some 6v solar panels, have you got any ideas for some garden lights ,? Thank you . Paul NW uk 👍
They can be useful for charging lithium cells or even NiMH cells with a simple dusk sensing circuit.
Thank you sir ...Ali from ..K2 Pakistan skardu.
I wonder if it works at leg level, though I don't have the nerve to inform Great Scott!, if it does.
This is so weird, our worlds are aligned! Just yesterday I also swapped to a unused 1000 mAh Nokia cell phone cell for longer time between charges. I also changed to 2200 ohm for 450 mA charging knowing the formula in the LTH7 datasheet is I = 1000/R2. Now I want to know how to make the "ON" time longer. Did you figure that out Clive?
On time may be locked in software, or it might be controllable via one of the unused pins. Some of these chips allow sensitivity, light detection and time delay to be set by using a potential divider between the positive and negative supply to a dedicated pin.
I've got some very similar I bought from Amazon, the dusk sensor doesn't seem to work on any of them.
Thank you, keep working.
For easier solder bridging you can tin both pads as normal then swap to your trashiest lead free solder and a cooler iron temperature. It is stickier and with much higher surface tension so will 'stretch' much further - it's about the only use I have for lead-free solder!
i wonder if that's what happening with some handheld jogging lights that I bought. One of them works, the other stopped working a while back. It works when I plug it into the charger, but doesn't when I pull it off. Plugging it into a tester shows no amps when just the broken one is plugged in, but around .60 A when turned on. The other one draw the same when turned on, but around .10 A when charging. So I bet it's the same problem. Or just a dodgy battery.
Probably it switches off the power to the PIR sensor also when it is put into the static ON mode. Saving some uAmps...
Oooh some spicy Temu magic! Always good stuff. 🤟😂
Magic indeed. I can't figure out he was able to realize what the fault was. I looked at the defect three times, and still can't figure out how he realized what the problem was. Of course I am this channel's village idiot and don't understand much of what says, but I understand what the problem was, but can't figure out how he saw what the problem was. It was a good video. He is right that the average person would use it till the went flat, and would just throw it away. I would have. Hell, I can't figure out why text assistance program works when I am texting on message and replying to comments, but not when I am commenting. I am a lousy speller, and really rely on the text assitance program. Why it works when I am texting on message and replying to comments, but not when I am commenting.
Some of those disposable vape batteries might work as replacements too.
I have a few of these (not the exact same model) and some of them likes to overdischarge the battery and then it can not charge it, LED stays green, or stays red, or flashes, or nothing. And I have to pop the cover and give it a boost with a little charger module.
You could put a shotky diode between the battery and the circuit to the right in the video (9:05) to drop some voltage so it cuts out sooner.
Easiest way would be to solder one in across the switch, bypassing it. Or make use of the diode already there by the switch in the diagram - cut the track between diode left hand side and the controller IC should work (ON mode will become the same as PIR mode except through a diode).
I wonder if the cell has a protection board on it. The DW01 can be a nuisance at times.
Since there is no use having a light during the day, it switches the IR motion detector off until dark is detected by the photo-resistor!
I wouldn't bother, since most IR motion detectors have a quiescent current of less than 50uA. A schottky diode has twice the reverse leakage!
My tool of choice with anything from temu is big sledgehammer.
Excellent
That is one funky pcb with all the soldering colours.
Re your last comment. I've a few - much older than this around the hous for niht time walking about - toilet - but I swapped out the leds for red ones.
How much was it? I think it's useful.
How much would it be if it were branded as Osram, Varta or Philips? 🤭
Typically they cost around £5. If it was branded by one of the biggies it would cost about three times that at least.
I found accidentally that sometimes they print the chip name under the chip, like FH511 was in one of the faulty candle solar light I salvaged._
Bigger is better as they always say (especially when it comes to lithium cells)
I also got a LED headlamp that is called an "induction light" I have no idea what they mean with it
It may have an infrared mode where you can turn it on and off by waving your hand in front of the light instead of using a switch. It's for when you've got work gloves on.
I'm not technical, so I'm just going to make a kinda stupid question here... xD Semi related to the video but not by much I guess.
Say you have a totally new house or apartment to work from scratch.
Does it make much sense to wire the whole thing to push something like 12V DC, or something like USB-C power, for lighting, instead of mains? Like, instead of having each single LED light with it's own step down transformer circuit and whatnot, you centralize everything separately, kinda like in a circuit break box or utility box, and only send DC power to fixtures, plus switches and whatnot.
Perhaps have a portion of the lights be removable with a battery so you can use as a flashlight or something, though I can see that being kind of a fire hazard. xD
And then, if that's even a good idea, you'd of course still have outlets with mains for all the stuff that requires it... but it seems that increasingly we get almost half of electronics that we plug in only needing at most some USB level power. Smartphone charging, some newer laptops, portable LCD screens, some battery powered tools and stick vacuums, speakers, etc etc.
Or this is just a horrible idea that would end up in death or fire? xD
If you got USB-C lights, I guess it’s ok. Check with an electrician from your country.
In the future they may have a 24V DC bus system for lighting.
Two truck /bus batteries and a solar panel with cheap pwm/mppt controller. Occasional boost from mains power when needed.
Can you or anyone tell me which UV light is used in those machines that will harden the gel nail polish when you stick your fingers in that machine? I hope it's not the one that can damage skin I think it's UV C light that can harm skin so I hope that's not in those machines or the ones that can make resin set hard when it's UV resin?
That are RGB leds with extra blue.
The nail units usually use UVA which is just next to the blue end of the spectrum. UVC wouldn't work for this.
The issue with light cured nail lacquer isn't the light. It's sensitisation of the skin caused by methacrylate components. It can lead to a long allergy to them.
i have this light its so good
I modified the 5c battery on my cell phone for it with an 18650 battery charging circuit.
Thanks :)
I bought a tube like sensor lamp from temu.
Plugged in for charging
Nothing
Turned on
Nothing
Opened it up battery was fully charged
All good
I tried to power extremely using another battery
Nothing
Then I just tested the leds one by one
And then I powered all with direct connection
Then all of a sudden the thing started working
Charging and working
I don't know what happened
Or what did I do
I have had odd things like that happen while doing some routine trouble shooting .
I have no Idea what changed, but it works after!
[ twilight zone theme ]
Odd. May have been a chip lock-up or just a bad connection.
your powerbank wants its cover back :)
that text on the box.....so this light is made out of people? anyone remembers Soylent green?
I've been using the Mr. Beams MB530 motion sensor lights for 7+ years now. Runs on 3x C cells. Comes on as a dim glow when dark, goes to full bright on motion. I get at least a year on one set of batteries. They've been great during power outages.
The main problem of course with getting a dead on arrival product and trying to fix it. Is remembering that for just looking. You may never be able to return it. And say it wasn't your fault. But for cheap stuff. 🤷 May as well have a go. 👍
When you took the lid off, the first thing I thought was that it looks a lot better than I expected! Then you started showing the track positions with the notch taken out, and I took it all back! This is what you get when you underpay children to assemble your products in horrible work environments... And they are so cheap, and difficult to return, that most consumers don't care! They just toss them in the bin!
EDIT spelling
When you've already been inside an item why go through the pretense of unboxing it, and sometimes then "guessing" at what is inside, you know full well what is inside 😛 the fun part is discovering these things with you!
I still do the disassembly so others know how to take it apart.
it's all about presentation