Inside a "30A" remote control - with schematic
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- Опубликовано: 22 мар 2024
- A remote control receiver with a much beefier relay than normal. I'm not sure I'd actually try using it anywhere near 30A, but the bigger relay would make it better suited to higher loads than the units with tiny relays.
As with many of these units, the antenna wire should be regarded as being live at full mains voltage and located and treated accordingly.
The circuitry is very typical of these units, with a nifty buck regulator and classic receiver module that means the unit has a standby power of just quarter of a watt.
Here's how to program this unit and many others that use the same software.
To clear all existing codes, press and hold the button for about 5 seconds until the LED starts flashing, and then release the button and wait for a few seconds as it erases existing codes.
If the LED doesn't start flashing then the unit may use a different erasing technique. Turn it off and on again and then click the button 8 times. That should clear the existing codes.
To select a mode press the button between 1 and 7 times, observing the brief LED flash with each press. After the required mode has been selected the LED will light to show it's waiting to receive a signal from the chosen remote button.
Press the remote's button and the LED will go out, or if it's the two button toggle mode it will blink and then wait for the second button to be pressed (which doesn't need to be on the same remote.)
If desired you can pair several other remotes by repeating the procedure. They can all have different functions.
Modes:-
1 - Single button momentary action. Non latching.
2 - Single button toggle on/off.
3 - Two button on/off. Each button is assigned independently.
4 - Single button timer 5-second delay.
5 - Single button timer 10-second delay.
6 - Single button timer 15-second delay.
7 - Single button timer 20-second delay.
Some similar units have an adjustable link for setting the mode. It usually offers momentary, latching or two button toggle. The button may only be for learning a code.
These units are common on eBay, usually supplied with a remote switch or key fob with a frequency choice of 433MHz or 315MHz. In the UK 433MHz is a standard frequency.
The transmitters are fairly standard and many different units with the matching frequency will work. 
Наука
The hot stapler will forever be remembered!
It really gets your attention.
Are you referring to the burn mark on the table top?
Yep. It hast replaced his bigclive sticker that has been there for so long. Truly Clive, and truly unique
Come on Clive, test it with a 30A load!... you know you wanna ( and we do, we all love it when things go bang)
13:36 I like how the receiver module looks like it's waving hi
That’s a cool little wireless device, but it needs to come with a fire extinguisher if they think that will handle 30a.
I'd like to see a 30A load put on that relay! 😃🔥🔥🔥
@@Kae6502Looks like a job for Electroboom.
relay actually looks rated but connectors and those soldered paths looks sus
@@Kae6502A relay never reveals its magic smoke. If under duress, feeling hot and sweaty it'll divulge its secrets. The magic dissipates right in front on you leaving only disappointment.
A useful little gadget. If as you say the antenna "could" be live, a solution is to pop a length of heatshrink over it, which will provide a decent level of protection. The relay is a product of Yueqing Zhenglin Electric Appliance Factory. They have been in the relay manufacturing business for 20 years, so they are a pretty reputable supplier, and a major OEM for many Chinese Manufacturers, so I'd reckon the rating is reliable. The relay is a JQX-15F (T90), 12v /24v dc operation, originally designed for motorcycle use.
“Chinese 30Amps”, you nailed it, Mr Clive! Thanks for a good laugh today. 😂
it is not that bad. I would not trust connectors, they dont look rated for 30A
Those particular relays usually are 30a I've got a dozen or so from an old UPS
Don't simply trust the specification, inspect the relay first. See whether it is 30A rating. If yes, take 20% safety margin (24A).🤣😂😆
Then check the wires and the pcb layout copper trace width. 😜😝😅
@@neiliewheeliebinconnectors are not
@@hrvojelasic5794 No I didn't mean anyone should actually run 30a through it that would be very unwise, the PCB clearly can't handle it in its current form either
At least they remembered to switch the live this time, rather than the neutral...
baby steps
@@marcogenovesi8570 if it did, you could just reverse them, it'd still work.. the pokey out aerial brush might be a bit 'tingly' though 😁
... but the fuse is on the neutral. ⚰️
@@DCBpower doesnt matter, if the supply to it is fused in the live .
7:50 I keep hearing metal oxide barista. I think I might need my ears syringed again.
Have you seen an interesting video called "Make Super frothy coffee like a pro BARISTA?"
BC dont mind the kids that dont know what dentures are.
Lol
Didn't he work at the Mos Eisley cantina?
Mr. Barrister Metal Oxide John Barosa
I bought one of these to add a remote on/off kill switch for my kid's ride on Power Wheels car. It works great to interrupt the 12v battery and turn the car off when he's about to drive into a tree. 😅
I guess that's cheaper than installing an airbag. 😊
@@tncorgi92airbags for sissies pfft
That is an excellent idea! 👍🏻
We have one of these with 3 remotes to control the outside lighting for a garden cabin. The unit came with two remotes which worked fine, but it wouldn’t let the third be added, even though it came from the same supplier and was the exact same design and circuitry as the originals.
I deleted all of the remotes and then it allowed all 3 to be added - weird!
Works well into a log cabin with 3”/75mm thick walls, but there are windows. Range is more than ample for our 150’/50m garden, and it’s great to be able to walk to/from the cabin when it’s dark outside. Relay is only switching around 20W of mains LED lamps, so total overkill - but I’d personally rate it for no more than 10A, just by the weight (and therefore the contact material) in my hand.
This remote control supports up to 16 pilots. If the pilot memory is full, you must remove all remote controls and program again. This remote control uses the EV1527 code so you can do many pilots with the same code.
Used one of these for a year or two, to operate the 12v macerator pump on my full time RV. Directions weren't included but it was configured for toggle out of the box - one day it randomly changed modes and i had to dig in Google to find the guide.
It reliably switched ~15-20A say 12v for a year or so, and eventually the radio receiver or controller failed.
Replaced with a similar relay controlled by an esp32, and hooked it to Home Assistant.
Wasn't a bad widget for the cost.
My remote packed up, I just ordered 4 spares fit under £5 and programed them in 👍
In 2007 I moved in a penthouse from 1987 that used a very ancient Bulgarian-made lamp switch with a remote control in the bedroom. It felt like the most convenient thing ever. The same house had electrical floor heating. Surprisingly enough the control module again made in Bulgaria routed the 7kW heaters per room through a similar relay on a PCB with tons of solder on the power pads. I was really surprised that it worked and it didn't show any signs of overheating.
Eastern Europe > China 😂
@@theghost00 At that time - absolutely. And nobody in Bulgaria had concerns about cost cutting and efficiency at the time - those controllers were soldered by hand, tons of solder were used and most importantly - people really could heat their houses with tens of kilowatts without thinking what the electricity bill would be :D
I just derate their components by moving the decimal point to the left one place.😅😂😂
For real safety, you'd have to do that for the voltage as well, which would reduce the functionality of many of these items.
I have a few in my motorhome, TBH anything Chinese I reduce by a 3rd for true max and then knock another 3rd off for longevity 😂 I run 10A @ 12V max in my 2 30A remote relays, it's been 2 years without issue and I consider myself blessed 😁
And take the square root and round down.
That sounds way closer to what you would expect 😂😂😂
@@Dirt-Digglerto be fair, the max rating for electronics or even civil engineering materials isn't supposed to represent the optimal working load. The real danger is when a third party buys the part and thinks "oh great, we will run our constant 30A load off this cheap 30A rated product and sell it to consumers for profit!"
Glad to see the little pot-bellied RF stick man waving and saying "Hi!" to us all the way from the Isle of Man!!! 🙋
Great video, thanks Clive!
I've converted a number of mains operated modules to 12 Volt/5 Volts (measure voltage while running) by just wiring straight to the reservoir electrolytic. This usually works just fine.
After a couple of glasses of wine at Christmas, I can imagine me throwing that out the window when the multiple button pushing and multiple modes turn my small brain to mince. :-)
The diode across the relay coil, I've heard it referred to as either a 'free-wheeling' diode, a 'fly-back diode' or 'coil suppression diode'. Personally, I'm fond of calling it a 'free-wheeling diode', as it does act like the coil, once conducting, is similar to a wheel. In that, it then has 'momentum' and the diode lets it 'free-wheel' its current to a stop, aka, for the field to collapse without the high voltage said field can generate when it does. That current from the field wants to go somewhere, right? 😁
Prevent back EMF generated by coil turn off which cause damage to other component？
I call it clamping diode.
Protection diode.
I was wondering if it reduces RF emissions. I remember in the 90's electronics were so noisy, all kinds of devices would interfere with each other and radio controlled systems would routinely be triggered by noise spikes. For example a garage door closing when Christmas tree lights turned on.
@@beardedchimp The idea here of a 'fly-back' or free-wheeling' diode is for DC. AC would cause massive current when polarity switches, forward biasing the diode for that entire half cycle, not for allowing the DC induced field to collapse. For AC across an inductor, like the primary of a transformer, a low value capacitor is typically used as a 'high-pass' (as in, a spike or high frequency noise) filter across the inductor. When switching AC, it's difficult to 'flip the switch' just as it crosses zero volts, causing an abrupt jump of the voltage if not at zero. Ever notice that when you turned those Christmas tree lights on or off, that sometimes you'd hear a crackle on an AM radio and other times you didn't? 😁
I made some mounting PCBs with DIN rail clips for these modules to control house lighting. They work really well with good receiver sensitivity.
I would solder a piece of copper wire onto pads from relay pins to outputs to make them beefier, uses less solder too.
Gaz Yorkshire
Loved the diagram for the wireless section with the RF controller waving at us. Cheers Big Clive
The 12V hack sounds interesting. This could be very handy for low voltage control of lighting in motor homes/campers (caravans for the UK) A few years back I converted my incandescent LV lighting to LED's which dropped my total power load from 60+ A to about 5 A . However most of the lights are switched at the lamp which can be annoying at times.
Ya. I'm thinking video #2. 😁
I use 2 12V versions of these in my motorhome, mainly for a simple 2 way switching of lights, I have the remotes stuck to the wall where I want them 👍
I use a 4wsy version for perimeter lights, they work ar a surprising distance 😵 over 50M , I do derate thier current capacity by 2 3rds to be safe, Chinese and all that 😂
The little RF receiver board is common to most of the remote relays sold on Amazon. I bought one with 4 relays on one board, works the same way, but comes with a 4 button keychain remote. I use it for forward/back control of an electric cart for my kayak.
Was very happy you showed off the other relay, saved me having to wire through the firewall in my car.
You should check out "4-channel multifunction dtmf control relay" I bought a couple and they are actually cool. You can program momentary/latching/time latching features by bridging some points on the board, and it is programmable with up to 4 digit numeric codes per relay. Hard to find info on how to actually program them but I did find some literature. Also will support ABCD tones despite not being listed as such. It requires a 12v dc input to power and an audio input. I was successful in controlling it with a two way radio over DMR which I thought was pretty cool
Could be fun to tear open the mystery relay and compare to a known proper 30A unit.
Yes, I was hoping he would tear open the relay to see if it could really handle 30A.
I have seen lighting control modules and (just the other day) a heat trace control device with 30A/277V relays on the board.
This board might fail catastrophically at 30A but I doubt there’s many visible differences (related to current handling) compared with a reliable UL listed controller.
Would love to see you tear down the relay to analyze whether the internals pass the "30A sniff test" and/or do a test with an actual 30A load and see if/where it settles thermally.
This chip has the same pinout as the LNK304 and its datasheet also includes two diodes to rectify the input (I always lack the lower one). What I found wierd why there are 1 drain and 4 source pins. On mosfets the drain connected to the heatsink. Viper22 has 4 drain and 2 source pins.
Quite a nice bit of kit Clive thank you 😊
That style of relays from sellers like Digikey are also labeled as 30A (NC) or 40A (NO) and their datasheets say "40 Amp switching capability" but then the "maximum switched power" is only around 1000W or 10000VA, yes 1kW or 10kVA 🤷♂
I bought a similar item a couple of weeks ago, but 2 channels at 10amps each. Otherwise the circuit was identical. I only intend to run them at about 100mA each and they will be used to switch lamps off so they will be connected to the NC contacts.
With the 2 channel unit there's another interesting option where the button A toggles one circuit and button B toggles the other circuit and button C cancels whichever was selected. However, if either A or B is pressed and then the other button B or A is pressed the result is that it also cancels the first relay; ie only one relay is active. In my case, since I will be using the NC circuit it means that i cannot turn out all the lights accidentally.
Pretty cool. Thanks Big Clive.
I just got one of these as well as the 12 volt version you reviewed a couple months ago. Ali had these 120 volt versions at next to nothing but with the shipping they cost about the same as yours in US dollars. What brilliant little units! I'm going to use this one for an exhaust fan in the bedroom to pull in cool air in at night this summer. The other 12 volt one I hope to recreate the Air Flow thing kind of like yours for the basement. (Radon mitigation hopefully) Positive airflow refreshing the basement air up, around and out etc. Just ordered some 120 mm computer fans from 1.6 amps to 3 amps as well as a couple of HEPA filters to test it out.
Thanks for such amazing ideas brother!
Hi clive just rewatched this video and ordered one for my man cave extractor fan.
I was thinking the same thing! You could run this thing on 12V, with a 5A inline fuse and control quite a bit of stuff without worrying about fire or shock.
I have plenty of these modules and they are quite convenient.
All of them however work off of 5 or 12V coming from either a reliable switch-mode PSU or a good old mains frequency transformer with bridge rectifier and smoothing capacitor.
For the high power stuff I would still buy the cheapest module and I would then replace the relay with a suitable one from a local reputable website or better a physical shop.
Awesom toys .I set 2 up for lighting a pathway in 2 locationsbwith a remote key .Was going to put a PIR but it would drain the batteries faster than the solar panel can charge .Because every sqirrel rabbit and fox and deer would set it of .semsor i used had not gain control .Lesson learned
Thanks Clive
Good video, thank you, Clive.
Model # 30A? A completely-unintentional ambiguity ...
15:12 for 12 VDC mod.
Wow I haven't been able to see your channel for a few weeks, congrats on 1million! You are one of my favorite creators on YT.
Brilliant, a lump of wire sticking out that's "LIVE" 😮
OH CHINA, Your THE BEST 😂👍🇮🇪
I would have liked to have a look inside the relay enclosure - at the high current contacts. Possibly even watched and listened to the relay energizing live loads. Everyone enjoys a good clicky-clicky->SpArK
This is pretty impressive for the cost. I don’t think I’d trust it in building wiring, or in any appliance that gets left plugged in for a long time.
But as far as its actual function goes, it’s pretty versatile.
Reminds me how I recently thought about making my own USB switch to connect my kb/mouse to two computers. Thought about using solid state relays but I was trying to get out of it cheap. The time investment out weighs buying a $18 switch that should hopefully work. But I could still do it maybe in the future. Just use like a dummy usb power adapter for the 5v and only pass the data lines to the computers.
It's unusual that the fusible resistor is on neutral not live (though many European and US plugs not polarised so phase and neutral can be swapped). Thanks for telling me about the existence of the fusible resistor in an earlier video!
I have one of these that is almost identical to this to control my dust collection. I never trusted it to handle 30A, so I used it to turn a contactor on and off instead. That way, the remote is only handling a very small current, and the contactor handles the 30A. The whole thing is placed inside a metal junction box with only the antenna sticking out.
Keep in mind that if it is a mains voltage module the antenna should be treated as being live.
I've been known to add copper wire along PCB traces like that in order to improve their current capability. Usually 1mm for small or hard to fit traces up to a pair of 4mm if they fit. (Sonoff, I'm looking at you...)
Anything wrong with the Sonoff PCBs? I'm using a few of their modules, never bothered to open one up though. And they are currently driving small loads (a few LED bulbs). Still, that might change.
@@kaasmeester5903 The rectangular ones I have use thin traces carrying the full current of the load running from end to end of the board. They aren't great for either current carrying capability or isolation. Very much appears to be a hobby style of design, IMO. I understand they have been improving, but my newest is several years old at this point so I don't know how or if those characteristics have been among the improvements.
Would be interesting to see the relays internal separation between the coil and the 240V contacts. Thanks
You can pull a 30 amp peak through a pish keurig heater relay, but just the tip, and only for a moment.
I've made a couple of wifi power strips using nothing more than: an 8-gang box from amazon, outlet pairs from Home Depot, a 8-gang plate (bezel, face plate), you know, for a DIY 8-outlet power strip. But inside the box, I fitted a Raspberry PI with WIFI, a relay board from Sainsmart, but any relay board with flyback diodes, opto isolation, and logic inputs will do, and used Wiring.py to poke at the relay board and cron (timers, clock alarms) to run Christmas Lights and our sump, because our basement is prone to flooding.
The CE logo on the ZHZCLL relay is formatted incorrectly. The right side of the C, if it were a circle, should intersect perfectly with the left of the E. If they had bothered to get the certification, it comes with formatting instructions, so it's more likely than not the CE logo is counterfeit. With that said, I've seen external power supplies for HP and Dell laptops with improperly formatted CE logos as well... But those are more likely to be legitimate, especially with the dozens of other certifications (some with registration numbers that can be looked up), so whoever the graphic designer was that was fitting all the certification logos on a limited space didn't get the formatting memo.
It's not counterfeit; it stands for China Export. That's an official Chinese mark, to certify that the product conforms to the standards required for goods meant to be exported from China. And I am sure it's a total coincidence that it looks a lot like the Conformité Européenne mark...
But as you say, it might just be misformatted.
hi there Big Clive, I like that i think i will see about picking some up. But like you say i think i would get rid of the solder on the large tinned rails and fully replace it with some leaded solder unlike the leaded free crap.. Regards Richard
Pretty impressive what you can get for the money. The country I live in would want 10k US dollars to make this.
Great info. Thanks
Interesting little device, but as you said, trusting that amp rating is most likely a bad idea.
And concerning those switches/key fobs, I'm a big fan of the "kinetic" versions that don't need batteries. They use a piezo element (or something similar) to generate their own power from the button press, works pretty well. Only "downside" is that the click on press is louder, and they are more expensive than battery powered versions.
Good video, thanks.
Yes, the LED is barely visible, but it does show up at my end.
Should you always add a diode to a relay, and, does its polarity matter
I've seen many without it, and I'd hate to be adding one where it could result in unexpected failures
Usually yes, and the diode should be oriented with the cathode to positive (because otherwise it'll shunt out whatever is driving your relay)
Yes. When the relay is controlled by a transistor it is required.
It never hurts. And yes, polarity matters, that’s probably why aftermarket automotive relays rarely have them
Many relays/relay modules have the diode built in.
How does the PN8015 measure the 12 V OP wheh it has no direct connection to the -ve rail? Is it clever enough to measure only when the diode is conducting? As the aerial only needs to see RF, they could have put a small capacitor in series to separate it from the mains-connected circuit.
I'm not sure how it measures that. It may be measuring it across the inductor.
Ooh, Amp's in scare quotes 😃 This'll be good! 😆👍
I would be tempted to add some heat shrink to the end of the antenna wire to insulate it. Also, is it possible to add a screw or a cable tie to stop the terminal cover from popping up so easily?
I use Velcro to hold mine on 👍
The terminal cover is pretty stiff to open. But a module like this should be mounted inside an enclosure.
thank you BC
I was taught the diode across the relay coil is called a freewheeling diode.
Clive, if you fully cover the antenna with a piece of heat shink. Would it protect you from getting zapped from it? Just to know for your viewers' information, and all those who are wondering about doing it for health and safety reasons.
If exposed it would be wise to sleeve it.
I wonder how it is safe to use with the rf antenna connected to hazardous live without proper isolation transformer? Or is there a Y-cap on the rf module antenna port?
The antenna is best sleeved. Or the 12V version used where it is very exposed.
For any significant current I would use one of these to drive a properly rated and certified contactor from a proper manufacturer
I've bought a few of these from the home improvement store, and they're not programmable. They come in a matched set and are marked with a channel letter - so far I've only seen Ch. A or B. So I've had conflicts between the fobs in different rooms. I came to the conclusion that they were a waste of at least $20 or $30 depending how many the fob controls.
I removed the remote control module and the onboard PIC chip, programmed a new controller to limit the amount of time it would stay on, then added an external, programmable remote module. I also replaced its simple antenna coil with a micro sma connector and ran it to a real antenna. Got at least half a km range out of it and was able to program multiple controllers to it
Installed a remote controlled fan for a customer once, when they hit speed 3 it would set off their remote control door bell!! Laughed so hard because I couldn't reprogram either of them!
It'll make a great bathroom fan timer.
Could you also use the built-in 12v supply in this to power another additional 12v relay? 15:33
The power supply is not rated for high current, but you could remove the relay and use an external one. But you'd have to remember that the 12V is referenced directly to the mains supply.
I wonder if the RF remote codes are static or rolling like a vehicle remote. If they're static it's easy to record and play the signals back with an RTLSDR and RPITX. You can then use the replayed signals in automation.
The unit learns codes, so you could choose them for your automation equipment.
I have a bunch of light switches in my house I need to move because I’ve changed the direction the doors open. Rather than trying to chase the wires in the walls could I use 2 or 3 of these instead? Can you set them on different channels or frequencies?
Each of the wall switch plates has its own code, but you can program one receiver to work with a few different switches.
that PN psu chip seems to use similar strange circuit like the infamous str50103 regulator used in many tvs in the mid 80s to 90s if you look at the datasheet and its internal circuit, and how its wired externally, its a case of 'eh, wot' 😁
As there is no galvanic isolation, what voltage is the antenna at? What about when you swap the live and neutral?
The antenna should always be regarded as being at full mains voltage.
@@bigclivedotcom Aye, but is the tip isolated as if it is live? What happens if it shorts out to the box or an open ground terminal?
Hmm...?
I just had a thought. Could the receiver work with a class Y capacitor in series with the antenna? If it worked, it would make the device a smudge safer.
To be clear though. It won't be completely safe! Just a smudge safer, isch.
That might work.
I have a remote to activate the light outside my workshop so I can make my way out at night. When going back to the house, I wired in a delay relay to keep the light on for 3 minutes.
If the electronics video channel thing doesn't work out, BigClive, you can always switch to stand-up. (Chinese amps).
how is the the radio standard /protocol for these called?
I assume it's called something, not just s 433MHz remote/relay and you're supposed to get lucky for these to work together.
Not sure the name of it, but most eBay fobs do follow a data standard.
A lot of the times it is the ev1527 protocol. They often state 'learning code'. They are fixed code and therefore not secure against a replay attack.
I’ve seen people these devices that often claim they have a “self learning” switch where they either stop working or the device they are on starts pouring out white smoke as the device isn’t learning anything it’s playing guessing games or it may require the device to be unplugged then plugged back in at certain times to function again. Got these $10 controllers that work on many devices and things like garage doors and don’t get me wrong they work but until something simple throws them off the network as sometimes they aren’t able to auto reconnect unless you have plugged into a device that can power them off then back on remotely.
And then when I brought a $10 mini ups it only worked till the capacitors started to pop like popcorn and even when I changed them out for new ones they popped even more quickly which for the price was bound to happen.
It was basically a dumb ups which I am using as a term for how it functioned as how it worked was the battery was charged and when the lights went off instead of it showing an indicator that the power was pulled it would draw from the battery that was ran on a standard two prong red and black cable that was wired in reverse where the red wire was the black wire and the black wire was the red wire and the red light only showed if power was on but if it was blinking like a led on the friz that meant the capacitor dried out which it had two said it worked on anything that had a 9v or 6v port
This circuit looks pretty okay actually. it looks like someone was really trying when designing this.
It would be fun to see just how much current the relay can handle before failure.
I had to redo my 60v scooter and I use that same device for the 60v headlights only. This device is DC 12v 24v 36v 60v and 70v all in one
Wowww, I always wanted my cheap Christmas lights I replace every year overly complicated for no reason at all.😄
I’ve gone off RF because of the lack of feedback. Was okay in back in 2000s. Then came wifi but it’s really easy to overload a domestic router. Think the standard is about 30 something connections, so even if you use a dedicated router on its own VLAN you can do it. Currently most of my stuff is Zigbee because the usual limit is usually something like 128, it’s low energy, mesh networks and can often work without the cloud. If I have to use wifi I always now make sure it has local mode and prefer something with a common chip I can put my own firmware on. Current Zigbee stuff tends to have a separate radio chip but the newer ESP32 chips have a built in Zigbee/Thread so should make good videos on the not too distant future. Next system after Zigbee maybe Matter over Thread but it’s not that different than Zigbee and I already have a home server that permits interaction between systems so it’s not that useful for me. In this case I’d get a Zigbee Relay. Not seen one with that high Amp rating though. What item uses that much current where you don’t need to know if the switch is open or closed? Personally I’d add a Zigbee relay and have it close a second relay that really is high amp. Even from brands I don’t tend to trust those ratings. In 2024 I don’t really get why anyone would get an RF Relay.
used one of these on my old SAAB 900 when the factory central locking died. worked well until i realised my car would unlock every tme my neighbour opened his garage door. shame they have so few channels
Thanks :)
I think they make it as cheap as possible by using a single-sided PCB, then locate and buy all the parts in bulk, and pick as many old through-hole stocks as possible, then build a PCB around those parts and run a batch.
They hand solder the through holes since there is no evidence of glue dots holding the SMD parts. Reflow soldering produces smoother fills.
They run a batch of say 5000 pieces as an example, and if it sells well, they'll usually redesign the PCB or tweak it, to fit the new found cheap through-hole components.
If you're in China, know Chinese and electronics on a hobbyist level, you can make a great living if you know where to source cheap parts.
This is why, when I buy something I like the design of, I replace all the caps and power transistors with parts from DigiKey. I can guarantee that relay won't be able to do even 20 Amps for long before the contacts fuse together or the PCB trace burns up. Also, the PCB trace is not thick enough to carry 30 Amps, not to mention the puny terminal block. 10 Amps tops.
This reminds me of a little bicycle light you had on here Clive with an unreal amount of button toggling and settings on it. Either 27 or 30 something settings.. crazy 🇮🇪
Or was it 16 settings 🤔 yeah I think it was 16 settings or something 😊
I remember that. It had far too many modes.
Enjoyable 👍 👍
Ref soldering, is this more likely to be wave soldered rather than reflow? Or is that old hat now
Is that one of those plastic welder filaments burned in the table?
Yes I may have branded the bench with it.
I use the DC version for my RC submarine so I can assemble it before going to the pond.
i buyed livarno led strip in lidl and the blue light has some kind of UV , i dont have any tools to measure , its the 10m not smart one without waterproofing just the bare strip
Blue LEDs emit just a single wavelength, usually around 470nm. But it will make fluorescent items like hi-viz clothing glow.
oh that cool , i just noticed my mail and the money security treads started glowing when i turned on :D
I use that same to turn off and on a light bar
Not too bad for Chinesium. Probably good for 15 amps.
Having it in 12V DC would be very nice indeed. I could use it as a remote controlled firing device to fire my model rockets.
So if someone knows how to best(easiest) convert it, then please let me know.
what is the amperage of that 12V DC output?
It's fairly low.
30A DC is a hell of a spark almost impossible to extinguish, 30A 230V single phase AC is forbidden by most electrical distribution companies single load to switch (almost 7kW, whereas in Bulgaria over 3kW in regular home wiring is illegal or requires special approval)...
Shouldn't the RF module be supplied with 12v? It's connected to 5v in your schematic.
It is a 5V module.
Maybe it indicates how long the "AAAAAAA!" scream should be if somebody actually used it up to its advertised capacity?
I have an earthing conundrum, BigClive, and you might know it involves a Chinese electrical product!
In order to reduce laundry drying times, I've bought a Chinese Spin Dryer. Testing the earthing of the oriental appliance, reveals that the inner stainless steel drum is earthed correctly, but the outer metal casing, and the base of the spin motor are NOT earthed!
Can you explain, Big Clive, fountain of all electrical knowledge? ⚡👍🤣
Love the fairy lights. Obvs, LEDs are great, but incandescent is so beautiful!
It depends on the likelihood of a fault causing metalwork to become live. If the outer metal is cosmetic on a plastic case then it's not super critical, but if there is a chance of it becoming live then adding an earth link to the outer metal shell might be a good idea.
@@bigclivedotcom Very odd! I replied to your reply, and my reply vanished into thin air! Sick to death of RUclips shadow banning me, and removing my comments willy nilly! I don't know what their problem is?
The outer metal case is not cosmetic, and only the top and bottom of the dryer are plastic. A fault could easily cause the case to become live, and I can't understand why it's not earthed. Incidentally, I have two dryers, one is faulty and is to be returned, and both exhibit a lack of outer case earthing. How it got a CE mark I don't know?
@@marcse7en It's possible you hit one of the many keywords I've been using to filter out the boobie-spammers. Once that situation is under control I'll remove a lot of the keywords.
In my house that would be a tingly antenna. I do not have Live and Neutral. I have L1 and L2.
You can flip it all you want it will still tingle.
The diode on the feedback path is still a mystery to me, I'd appreciate if someone can explain
This PFM regulator provides a fixed-period on-pulse when the output voltage has fallen enough, after a fixed minimum off-time has passed. During off-time, the "GND" pin and the top of the feedback divider are each one diode drop *below* the corresponding output terminals, tracking the output well enough for wide voltage regulation purposes. During on-time, when the "GND" pin is a few 100mV *above* Vout, the feedback diode disconnects the feedback network from the output.
@@abitofabitofabit4404 That makes sense, since GND is the output of the switching circuit (the naming doesn't help) and the filtering cap would provide a direct high frequency path to the output node. Also the fact that this is PFM makes is so that since the on-pulse is of a fixed length, you can only really decide what to do when the output is off, hence the feedback network is not needed on the on-time. Thanks for clarifying that!