I really enjoy these specialty fitting topics. Even when it's not something I think I need, it helps me better understand the relationship between the shape of the pattern and the shape of the body. I've done something very similar moving the cap on my sleeves, but it never occurred to me to use this same adjustment on pants. Maybe to some people this isn't fun, but I just love learning this!!! Now I'm going to go look in the mirror, because i may need this adjustment after all as I generally have some extra volume on my outer thighs. Thank you for making these videos. I always learn so much from you.
I'm so happy to hear!! (Sometimes I do wonder if what I'm sharing is going to be interesting to others :))) I love nerding around with pattern pieces and after testing the theory that it's faster to fit pants if the pattern agrees with your shape, I'm on a mission to share these body specific time savers!!
:) Also, I would add to the edges as shown in this tutorial so you have room to let out where you need it. ruclips.net/video/eZUsbnpDCaM/видео.html thanks for fitting along with me
Great video.. I need this adjustment. But how do you determine how much to shift? Is there a measurement that needs to be taken? Appreciate all your advice. Thank you!
Thanks! See how much extra ease you have hanging out under your full hip along the side seam... Use that as a guide. Divide the total extra ease in half (because you're only going to shift the back leg)... then round down a little bit. You don't need an exact amount... It's' more amount putting the fabric where you need it. If you're working with a single leg muslin and separate waistband, you can add extra seam allowance to the inseam to fine-tune this adjustment when you start fitting. See this tutorial showing how to prep your pattern pieces :) Thanks for watching ruclips.net/video/eZUsbnpDCaM/видео.html
Jen, During an in person session on making pants, you pointed out to one of the students that she has a prominent or athletic thigh area. When you take a close look at her silhouette photos, you can see that her thigh is larger and more forward. We are attempting to make ponte knit pants, using the Parker Ponte pattern, from Style Arc. Her initial try has the pants shifting their side seam/balance lines to the back indicating that she needs more room to accomodate her larger thigh. Does the adjustment you showed in this video work for her issue? Or is there another one you recommend? Thank you, Jen.
Yes, this does work... but it sounds like you may need to adjust the front leg as well. Recently I was working with a pants fitting student who reported back that this adjustment worked better when she adjusted the front ...shifting the fabric toward the inseam because the fullness along her inner thigh was more forward. The adjustment to the front leg is limited by how long the front crotch point extends out. (You don't want to push the inseam out farther than the tip of the front crotch). I hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me
this on has been bugging me ever since I started pants... with TDCO I kinda got there by using a smaller size inseam line starting at the larger size tip of crotch and inseam. That way I keep the inseam equal back and front, and for the first time I have a 1 leg toile that I feel comfortable enough in to put into a 2 leg toile.
Yes, you can definitely use a larger size from the tip of the crotch along the inseam... But then you'd be letting out the entire inseam... adding ease to the hem. If you're goal is a close fitting leg, this method shifts the fabric toward the inseam without adding ease to the pattern. Thanks for fitting along with me
If you have already made a muslin and they fit fine, then the pattern had enough room along the inseam to fit your shape (Yay).... If you were just starting, and you have full inner thighs or knees, shifting the fabric to the inseam would give you more ease there. Then when you prepped your pattern you are adding safety side seam allowances. This gives you the flexibility to fine tune the fit along both the side and inseams. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
Thank you for your reply! I made adjustments to my pattern and made a new muslin which fits at the thighs and knee but now the hip is too low and doesn’t fit. I’m a bit confused as to how making the adjustments for the prominent inner thigh and knee changed the position and fit of the hip. Any perspective would help
So, would the front crease slightly twist somewhat towards the outside seam at knee or just above knee level? I'm trying to get my head around this. I've drafted my pant pattern it seems to be balanced ok but my thighs and knees are as you described, and the centre front crease from my knee cap gradually moves out towards the outer seam by about approx 3/4 of one inch at the hem, and the crease is not in the middle of my foot, more so on my left leg. Same thing happens with purchased pants too. ☹ It’s bugging the life out of me.
Check out this tutorial explaining how the position of the center balance line affects the fit of pants... it may help! ruclips.net/video/WH1egCJ3J_s/видео.html Thanks for fitting along with me
I have been following your TDCO videos and to cope with a prominent inner thigh and large butt I used a bigger size inseam and smaller size outseam which does seem to work....the only problem is with the grain line which of course is no longer centred. For pants with no crease I don't think this is an issue but what will happen if I want to make pants with a crease. The grainline is no longer at the centre of the hem and knee lines. Thank you
Yes, you can use different sizes for the side and inseam to shift fabric toward the inseam (I love it that there are so many ways to do the same thing. But, if you use a larger size on the inseam, you're also adding to the tips of the crotch points. If you need the extra depth, that's perfect... If you don't, shifting it this way moves fabric to the inseam without changing anything else. These adjustments are just to customize the pattern to your shape. I recommend adding extra to the inseams when you prep the pattern to cut out the fit muslin. When you get to the single leg muslin, you can work out where you need more length in the crotch points
I don't make pants yet, but I like to learn as much information about how to make them as I can and you do an excellent job with that! I forgot your first name again. What is your first name?
I really enjoy these specialty fitting topics. Even when it's not something I think I need, it helps me better understand the relationship between the shape of the pattern and the shape of the body. I've done something very similar moving the cap on my sleeves, but it never occurred to me to use this same adjustment on pants. Maybe to some people this isn't fun, but I just love learning this!!! Now I'm going to go look in the mirror, because i may need this adjustment after all as I generally have some extra volume on my outer thighs. Thank you for making these videos. I always learn so much from you.
I'm so happy to hear!! (Sometimes I do wonder if what I'm sharing is going to be interesting to others :))) I love nerding around with pattern pieces and after testing the theory that it's faster to fit pants if the pattern agrees with your shape, I'm on a mission to share these body specific time savers!!
Thank you for showing this adjustment. It will definitely be one I need to try.
My Pleasure! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks!
Thank you!!
Thanks for the upcoming vlog for asymmetry, Jen!
You are so welcome! Thanks for following along with me
I'm about to cut my first Shorts for Every Body and definitely have fullness in the thigh area. Will give this some thought before cutting.
:) Also, I would add to the edges as shown in this tutorial so you have room to let out where you need it. ruclips.net/video/eZUsbnpDCaM/видео.html thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns Will do. Thanks for the all of the great tips !
Thank you, thank you, thank you.
You are very welcome Thank you for fitting along with me
Great video.. I need this adjustment. But how do you determine how much to shift? Is there a measurement that needs to be taken? Appreciate all your advice. Thank you!
Thanks! See how much extra ease you have hanging out under your full hip along the side seam... Use that as a guide. Divide the total extra ease in half (because you're only going to shift the back leg)... then round down a little bit. You don't need an exact amount... It's' more amount putting the fabric where you need it. If you're working with a single leg muslin and separate waistband, you can add extra seam allowance to the inseam to fine-tune this adjustment when you start fitting. See this tutorial showing how to prep your pattern pieces :) Thanks for watching ruclips.net/video/eZUsbnpDCaM/видео.html
Jen,
During an in person session on making pants, you pointed out to one of the students that she has a prominent or athletic thigh area. When you take a close look at her silhouette photos, you can see that her thigh is larger and more forward.
We are attempting to make ponte knit pants, using the Parker Ponte pattern, from Style Arc. Her initial try has the pants shifting their side seam/balance lines to the back indicating that she needs more room to accomodate her larger thigh. Does the adjustment you showed in this video work for her issue? Or is there another one you recommend?
Thank you, Jen.
Yes, this does work... but it sounds like you may need to adjust the front leg as well. Recently I was working with a pants fitting student who reported back that this adjustment worked better when she adjusted the front ...shifting the fabric toward the inseam because the fullness along her inner thigh was more forward. The adjustment to the front leg is limited by how long the front crotch point extends out. (You don't want to push the inseam out farther than the tip of the front crotch). I hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns Thank you Jen. You have great insight.
about how far down from the inseam/crotch curve point are you shifting the leg?
The approximate position of the knee :)
this on has been bugging me ever since I started pants... with TDCO I kinda got there by using a smaller size inseam line starting at the larger size tip of crotch and inseam. That way I keep the inseam equal back and front, and for the first time I have a 1 leg toile that I feel comfortable enough in to put into a 2 leg toile.
Yes, you can definitely use a larger size from the tip of the crotch along the inseam... But then you'd be letting out the entire inseam... adding ease to the hem. If you're goal is a close fitting leg, this method shifts the fabric toward the inseam without adding ease to the pattern. Thanks for fitting along with me
I’m making a flare bottom pant which fits perfectly at the waist and hip. If I shift the fabric, wouldn’t that change the fit at the hip?
If you have already made a muslin and they fit fine, then the pattern had enough room along the inseam to fit your shape (Yay).... If you were just starting, and you have full inner thighs or knees, shifting the fabric to the inseam would give you more ease there. Then when you prepped your pattern you are adding safety side seam allowances. This gives you the flexibility to fine tune the fit along both the side and inseams. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
Thank you for your reply! I made adjustments to my pattern and made a new muslin which fits at the thighs and knee but now the hip is too low and doesn’t fit. I’m a bit confused as to how making the adjustments for the prominent inner thigh and knee changed the position and fit of the hip. Any perspective would help
I'm not sure why the hip is now to low? Can you send me photos of what's going on (jsterndesigns37@gmail.com) Then I can suggest how to fix
So, would the front crease slightly twist somewhat towards the outside seam at knee or just above knee level? I'm trying to get my head around this. I've drafted my pant pattern it seems to be balanced ok but my thighs and knees are as you described, and the centre front crease from my knee cap gradually moves out towards the outer seam by about approx 3/4 of one inch at the hem, and the crease is not in the middle of my foot, more so on my left leg. Same thing happens with purchased pants too. ☹ It’s bugging the life out of me.
Check out this tutorial explaining how the position of the center balance line affects the fit of pants... it may help! ruclips.net/video/WH1egCJ3J_s/видео.html Thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns It is comforting to know that whatever the problem, I can find help on the subject . Thank you so much for caring xx
I have been following your TDCO videos and to cope with a prominent inner thigh and large butt I used a bigger size inseam and smaller size outseam which does seem to work....the only problem is with the grain line which of course is no longer centred. For pants with no crease I don't think this is an issue but what will happen if I want to make pants with a crease. The grainline is no longer at the centre of the hem and knee lines. Thank you
Yes, you can use different sizes for the side and inseam to shift fabric toward the inseam (I love it that there are so many ways to do the same thing. But, if you use a larger size on the inseam, you're also adding to the tips of the crotch points. If you need the extra depth, that's perfect... If you don't, shifting it this way moves fabric to the inseam without changing anything else. These adjustments are just to customize the pattern to your shape. I recommend adding extra to the inseams when you prep the pattern to cut out the fit muslin. When you get to the single leg muslin, you can work out where you need more length in the crotch points
I don't make pants yet, but I like to learn as much information about how to make them as I can and you do an excellent job with that! I forgot your first name again. What is your first name?
:) Hello, My name is Jennifer... And I'm so excited that you're gearing up to make pants! Thanks for fitting along with me
What state are in that you teach?
I live in Connecticut & I teach all over the country and on Zoom right here in my studio :)