This setup is mean!!! 🔥 Thanks for this video bro it helps a lot to see it. I’ve heard that you can swap the two front crash bars to make more room too so I might try that
Quick question, the preload spacer. Does that give the strut the additional lift and is 100% required or if you only put the block up top and skip the spring spacer will it not affect anything and still give 2.5 inches?
Yes the preload spacer will give you some height as well. I am no pro, but from my understanding is the preload spacer increases the ride height by stiffening the springs and limiting compression. That being said the ride is nice and not harsh at all.
Loosen the top bolt on the strut almost all the way off while on the truck, it will be a little harder to remove the whole strut because it will be decompress a little more but when you take it off you won't need the spring compressors.
Lol the cheap spring compressors are way more sketchy lol, iv don't several truck and cars this way, have never had an issue never needed spring compressors either
I had to press mine 2 times. After a week or so the metal started to come back a bit, so had to press them again after a week or so. So keep that in mind.
No problem, glad you like it. So from the ground to the top of the roof it is roughly 79" From the ground to the top of the roof rack was roughly 82" The front fender From the ground was 40 7/8" The rear fender from the ground totally unloaded no cargo or back bike rack was 42 1/8" from the ground
I don't want to steer you wrong, I am not exactly sure. I can say your tire is a little smaller than mine but wheel offset plays a big factor on whether it is going to rub or not. My wheel is a 17 and it is a 0 offset. I did have to press the bars. My buddy has a 17" wheel with same tire as mine his offset is -12 we had to remove his crash bars for sure.
I installed the same size tire on my 17 F-150 Platinum. I had some mild rubbing issues with the factory wheels, but I just had some new wheels installed, and I didn't know it at the time, but these have a 19mm offset. From the 0 offset of the factory wheel, this made the rubbing quite a bit more intense. My problem is that the rubbing is on the rear crash bars, not the front. Unlike the front I think the wheel well liner can be moved out of the way enough that they bolts can be removed without cutting them, and the crash bar and everything left in tact. That's my next project this weekend.
@@mcgilm69 yes my wheel offset is 0 and I was good with the rear bars. My buddy has -12 and he had to unbolt the rear crash bars and trim the wheel well. So you are correct. You will have to remove the rear crash and trim a bit. From what I remember you can unbolt the rears and you don't have to cut them. 👍
How are the cv angles and are the shocks maxed out with the 2.5”? I’m looking at getting this kit with the upgraded UCA’s. I had a bad ball joint failure on my other truck that wasn’t warrantied. $2500 to repair all the damages. So I’m trying to be really careful this time around since there’s no warranty once it’s installed.
I would say they look pretty good and I haven't felt uncomfortable or concerned about the angles. The bds system has a pre-load spacer and an upper spacer. The two piece system does not max out the upper ball joints during suspension travel. I have stock UCA's.
You def gain more clearance by doing that over doing the portapower press. as for how much i am not sure as i didn't do that. Sorry i couldnt really answer your question.
Truck looks great. I’m just in the process of doing the exact kit to mine. How much would you say you pushed the crash bars out ? I have 0 offset 20” wheels with 35x12.5x20 tires. Thanks in advance !!
Nice good luck, well I pushed them out as far as they would go, but it is very strong metal the strong elasticity in the bars they start to move back into shape. So I started to get some rub. You can keep pressing them out and eventually it will stay but i wasnt buying a porta power for that.. So it was either cut these out buy new crash bars and swap them, so they bend forward instead of backwards, or just cut them out. I hate to say it and won't recommend it but I removed mine for now. I will probably buy some and put them in but haven't gotten around to it.
I plastidiped all my emblems and the back tailgate. Don't let the haters deter you. Plastidip works really well and if done right holds up for years. Then when you are done, peel it off or do it again.
Looks great. Although the first time you put that front wheel on even a curb while turning your gonna rip your wheel wells to shreds. Cutting lifts close like this might seem like a legit idea at first but it get expensive fast unless your truck is just a pavement queen.
Thanks and she is no pavement princess. I have taken it into the woods a ton of times, no issues. I am not rock crawling with it, but I have definitely done more serious things than turning onto a curb. Lucky for me my wheel wells are still there. 👍🤘🤘
Don't want to do a 4 or 6 inch lift because that would detract from my towing and long haul comfort. A level is just enough specially when I am towing a 32 footer. If I didn't tow I would definitely have a 4" BDS.
If the wheels are out further there is more of a chance to hot the crash bars. My buddies wheel offset is -12 and we had to remove all of his crash bars. I thought the same thing but it is opposite
You didn’t have add any height to the rear? I put a 2.5 moto fab level in my 2020 f150 and it had a little bit of squat. So I’m going to add a 2 inch rear block to the back.
Wheels are:. 17x8.5 6x135 0mm www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AR7PS6Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Tires are: NITTO RIDGE GRAPPLER 35x12.5 17 simpletire.com/nitto-lt35-12.50r17-217020-tires Full lock hitting a bump you do get a bit of rub. AS for how far I pushed the bars, as far as they would go. The rear bar hits part of the body/frame. The front bar presses into a bracket. I am finding that the bars start to re take shape so I have a bit less room than when I originally pressed them out
Ride The Earth Hey no sweat thanks for getting back to me. That’s exactly what I’m going for, thank you. I latest installed the bds 2.5 level kit. Now I just need to find that tool that you used to move the crash bars.
@@smokeu600 nice, I will say my crash bars have moved back into shape a bit so I do get a bit of rubbing at full turn coming out of the bump on my driveway. I might just swap the front ones left to right so they angle out.
2018 F150 will have to rent me that hydraulic ram i just put 35s on with 2.5" level and 2" spacers and im getting rubbing on both front and rear crash bars so this would fix it without cutting the bars off
Yes, but keep.in mind really press them out as far as you can. Mine worked for a month then the elasticity in the metal they started to move back. Had to press them again.
@@NordicViking88 i won't tell anyone to do that, they are obviously there for a reason. That being said. I cut my front ones out. So did a friend of mine. That is running a 2.5" level with 35x12.5 his wheels are -12 offset. Mine are 0 offset.
You going to regear? I only did 33s on my 2.25 level because I tow a 7,000 travel trailer. I have the 3.55 gears but a regear would be $$$ because 4WD with IFS. otherwise I had raptor take offs ready to go with 35s but had to remove and replace with 33s.
If money wasn't an object I would probably go to 4.10's. But as always money is a big factor ha ha ha. I will say I haven't found the NEED to re-gear more of a want. The truck has tons of power, plenty to tow my travel trailer or the 4 atvs.
my understanding is you can do a leveling kit in the front and a 1"-1.5" lift in the rear and that should keep the rake. I just have the leveling kit on the front and it makes mine level. 6" and 35's ? with a 6" i would want 37's :) i also prefer not to cut up the truck and keep it a little more mild as i drive it every day.
i used the porta power and pressed them out as far as they would go, it gained me a couple inches for sure. As far as safely... that i dont know i am not an engineer so take these comments and or do this at your own risk :)
I bought this level kit and I did not know you needed to have a strut compressor. I haven’t installed it yet though. Is it true that you have to have 17” diameter wheels for this leveling kit?
The wheel diameter shouldn't matter, in relation to this or any leveling kit. The part I mention wheel size when I was reading the instructions was just a guide. The tire size and wheel offset are the most important factors.
No it doesn't I did have to trim a tiny bit of plastic, and I also pressed the crash bars apart with the porta power like i mentioned in the video around the 12:40 mark. that being said i haven't done any serious offroading with it. I imagine if i were to really flex it out turning in an offraod situation, then it would rub on the crash bars.
@@RhinoDoesItAll1991 Nothing yet. The 2.5" isn't too much and really doesn't stress them much. 3" pushes it (at least on ford's) and anything over 3" you definitely want different UCA's.
@@RhinoDoesItAll1991 personally if I were doing upper control arms I would do the 3.5" lift. I think ready lift has one, maybe a couple others. That is just an opinion though. I don't have any experience with that though. Just thinking If you are doing UCAs might as well get a bit more lift.
Have a 2.5” moto fab leveling kit on my 2018 f150, have 35x11.50x18’s, the stock ford 18’s and I had no running, haven’t had to trim and didn’t have to swap crash bars, if you go to a 12 and a half wide you’re gonna have to swap crash bars or trim if you don’t get a wheel spacer, if you get a spacer you don’t want to push the tire out anymore then a couple inches if that from the fender because it will hit the crash bar and you will have to switch the sides of them
I have a 2015 with no lift on OEM 17" rims. I run 35x10.5 (actual dimensions 34.76" x11.04") Kenda Klever RTs, these don't rub even at full flex and turned to the stops. I understand that most clearance problems requiring a lift are due to the tire width and modified rim backspacing as opposed to the increase in diameter.
@@toddbrackett4277 bet those 35’s look so good on the 17’s, I like the look of my 18’s but want to buy some gen3 blacked out raptor rims and put on my 35 trail grapps since they are 17’s, but yeah I bet it looks good, I just think the leveling kit and tires changed the whole look of the truck and didn’t like the rake look, just never been a fan of it, I know they do it to help with towing a trailer so it’ll sit level when towing heavy loads but I don’t do it all the time so it doesn’t bother me, I do tow a heavy load every now and then though
@gavinlee9478 , I really like the kendas. I actually got the best deal ordering these tires through a Chevy dealer and when they came in the technicians didn't think that they would fit but they did (barley). I was excited that I was able to mount 35" RT tires on a bone stock truck with OEM rims including balancing and alignment for $1,100. You make good points about the rake but I thought that it was good that I didn't need to alter the suspension/steering geometry or driveline angles. Have you re-geared? I have the 1:3.55 and it doesn't shift where it should. The Raptor runs 35s or 37s and Ford has geared these trucks with the 1:4.10 so if I make any mechanical changes to the truck then this will probably be the first.
@@RideTheEarthnow yeah. I found 285/75 r 18 on the Goodyear site. The smallest 34. That will probably clear a little better in that wheel well. Your truck looks sweet!
I get 14 mpg give or take but I don't drive slow. More boost than eco. I would say with the lift and bigger tires it is a difference of about 1mpg? I don't pay much attention to mpgs.
With my 35’s I went from 18.5 to 16.5, but I’m like him more boost than eco cuz I don’t drive slow at all, never have, always pushing a hundo or more on the interstate if there isn’t much traffic haha
I bought this level kit and I did not know you needed to have a strut compressor. I haven’t installed it yet though. Is it true that you have to have 17” diameter wheels for this leveling kit?
The wheel diameter shouldn't really matter for the kit. I have 17's because I like more rubber over rim. Yes strut compressor is needed and a pain in the butt.
I really REALLY like how you mention the sizes of the hardware! Saves a ton of trips to the toolbox. Thank you very much.
Nice, glad to hear it. I try to make the videos how I would want to watch them.Just makes things easier.👍
You made the right choice. Spring compressors are bombs!
😆 definitely sketch me out ha ha ha
Quick tip, just unbolt lower A arm bolts, strut pops out. Mark alignment bolts if you want. 4 bolts and done both sides.
Our trucks are identical down to the Goodyears. I have a 2.5" level and just ordered Method MR316s and toyo 33x12.5s
This setup is mean!!! 🔥 Thanks for this video bro it helps a lot to see it. I’ve heard that you can swap the two front crash bars to make more room too so I might try that
how did it work out for you? I've heard that too, been wanting to try it but haven't found much info about it.
@@atticusjun1598 I never tried it. I’d have to take the bumper off to slide them out. It’s still on my agenda
Great video. Thanks for sharing. New subscriber here from Philadelphia PA
Awesome! Philly represent!
35s would look good on a 6" lift. I run 33s on my leveled f150. No rubbing issuses whatsoever. No cutting up fender liner and bending the crash bar.
I’ve got 35’s on my 2018 f150 2.5” leveling kit, no rubbing, no swap crash bars and no trimming, they are 11.5 wide and fit perfectly and look amazing
Also on the stock 18” rims
The tires are also nitto trail grappler M/t
Quick question, the preload spacer. Does that give the strut the additional lift and is 100% required or if you only put the block up top and skip the spring spacer will it not affect anything and still give 2.5 inches?
Yes the preload spacer will give you some height as well. I am no pro, but from my understanding is the preload spacer increases the ride height by stiffening the springs and limiting compression. That being said the ride is nice and not harsh at all.
Loosen the top bolt on the strut almost all the way off while on the truck, it will be a little harder to remove the whole strut because it will be decompress a little more but when you take it off you won't need the spring compressors.
That sounds too sketcy to me ha ha ha.
Lol the cheap spring compressors are way more sketchy lol, iv don't several truck and cars this way, have never had an issue never needed spring compressors either
Nice......yes they are sketchy for sure.
Be the 1st backyard mechanic to attain low Earth orbit.
Glad I came across your video, I like to know do auto stores have that port power?
I know Amazon sells them and some auto stores sell them. Not too sure about rentals though. I rented mine from a tool rental shop. 👍
I had to press mine 2 times. After a week or so the metal started to come back a bit, so had to press them again after a week or so. So keep that in mind.
Gotch,,, and thanks
Looks good. Glad you were able to get it to fit. Mine was a pain in the #$@. Looks good.
Thanks, and yeah nothing is ever easy when working on vehicles. always run into some dumb issue.
Amen to that brother.
I've just subscribed to your channel.
@@Coyotemike302 returned the favor
Appreciate it brother. 👍
Thanks for making this vid. Any idea what your overall height is now? I’m trying to pick a setup that still lets me park in a 7ft garage. Thanks!
No problem, glad you like it.
So from the ground to the top of the roof it is roughly 79"
From the ground to the top of the roof rack was roughly 82"
The front fender From the ground was 40 7/8"
The rear fender from the ground totally unloaded no cargo or back bike rack was 42 1/8" from the ground
great video, going to install the same BDS 2.5" kit, you think I'll have to do anything with the crash bars if my tires are 275/65/r20?
I don't want to steer you wrong, I am not exactly sure. I can say your tire is a little smaller than mine but wheel offset plays a big factor on whether it is going to rub or not. My wheel is a 17 and it is a 0 offset. I did have to press the bars. My buddy has a 17" wheel with same tire as mine his offset is -12 we had to remove his crash bars for sure.
I installed the same size tire on my 17 F-150 Platinum. I had some mild rubbing issues with the factory wheels, but I just had some new wheels installed, and I didn't know it at the time, but these have a 19mm offset. From the 0 offset of the factory wheel, this made the rubbing quite a bit more intense. My problem is that the rubbing is on the rear crash bars, not the front. Unlike the front I think the wheel well liner can be moved out of the way enough that they bolts can be removed without cutting them, and the crash bar and everything left in tact. That's my next project this weekend.
@@mcgilm69 yes my wheel offset is 0 and I was good with the rear bars. My buddy has -12 and he had to unbolt the rear crash bars and trim the wheel well. So you are correct. You will have to remove the rear crash and trim a bit. From what I remember you can unbolt the rears and you don't have to cut them. 👍
How are the cv angles and are the shocks maxed out with the 2.5”? I’m looking at getting this kit with the upgraded UCA’s. I had a bad ball joint failure on my other truck that wasn’t warrantied. $2500 to repair all the damages. So I’m trying to be really careful this time around since there’s no warranty once it’s installed.
I would say they look pretty good and I haven't felt uncomfortable or concerned about the angles. The bds system has a pre-load spacer and an upper spacer. The two piece system does not max out the upper ball joints during suspension travel. I have stock UCA's.
How much clearance can you gain by switching the crash bars right to left?
You def gain more clearance by doing that over doing the portapower press. as for how much i am not sure as i didn't do that. Sorry i couldnt really answer your question.
Truck looks great. I’m just in the process of doing the exact kit to mine. How much would you say you pushed the crash bars out ? I have 0 offset 20” wheels with 35x12.5x20 tires. Thanks in advance !!
Nice good luck, well I pushed them out as far as they would go, but it is very strong metal the strong elasticity in the bars they start to move back into shape. So I started to get some rub. You can keep pressing them out and eventually it will stay but i wasnt buying a porta power for that.. So it was either cut these out buy new crash bars and swap them, so they bend forward instead of backwards, or just cut them out. I hate to say it and won't recommend it but I removed mine for now. I will probably buy some and put them in but haven't gotten around to it.
Thanks for the msg. It’s very much appreciated. Did you have to remove the rear ones as well ? Or just the fronts ? Thanks
Just the fronts.
Awesome thanks man. Keep the F150 videos coming ! Your truck is great.
Thank you, hope it a works out for ya🤘🤘
How'd you get the black f15 emblem on driver side panel
I plastidiped all my emblems and the back tailgate. Don't let the haters deter you. Plastidip works really well and if done right holds up for years. Then when you are done, peel it off or do it again.
Could you please give me the measurement from the center of your hub to fender after the level?? Thanks.
Looks great. Although the first time you put that front wheel on even a curb while turning your gonna rip your wheel wells to shreds. Cutting lifts close like this might seem like a legit idea at first but it get expensive fast unless your truck is just a pavement queen.
Thanks and she is no pavement princess. I have taken it into the woods a ton of times, no issues. I am not rock crawling with it, but I have definitely done more serious things than turning onto a curb. Lucky for me my wheel wells are still there. 👍🤘🤘
Don't want to do a 4 or 6 inch lift because that would detract from my towing and long haul comfort. A level is just enough specially when I am towing a 32 footer. If I didn't tow I would definitely have a 4" BDS.
Would installing some spacers have pushed the wheels out enough to not mess with the crash bars?
If the wheels are out further there is more of a chance to hot the crash bars. My buddies wheel offset is -12 and we had to remove all of his crash bars. I thought the same thing but it is opposite
You didn’t have add any height to the rear? I put a 2.5 moto fab level in my 2020 f150 and it had a little bit of squat. So I’m going to add a 2 inch rear block to the back.
Nope didn't have to add any but my tonneau is a bit heavy? Probably just enough.
Can you give me information on the rims and tires please. Also how far did you bend the crash bars?
Wheels are:. 17x8.5 6x135 0mm
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AR7PS6Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Tires are: NITTO RIDGE GRAPPLER 35x12.5 17
simpletire.com/nitto-lt35-12.50r17-217020-tires
Full lock hitting a bump you do get a bit of rub. AS for how far I pushed the bars, as far as they would go. The rear bar hits part of the body/frame. The front bar presses into a bracket. I am finding that the bars start to re take shape so I have a bit less room than when I originally pressed them out
Ride The Earth
Thanks for the info. One more thing, with 0mm how much poke do you have?
@@smokeu600 Sorry for the delay The rear sticks out about two and a half inches The front sticks out a little less More like two two and a quarter
Ride The Earth
Hey no sweat thanks for getting back to me.
That’s exactly what I’m going for, thank you. I latest installed the bds 2.5 level kit. Now I just need to find that tool that you used to move the crash bars.
@@smokeu600 nice, I will say my crash bars have moved back into shape a bit so I do get a bit of rubbing at full turn coming out of the bump on my driveway. I might just swap the front ones left to right so they angle out.
What size porta power did you use? Can’t find a rental place near me….
Might go buy a Harbor freight one….
But will a 5 ton work? Thanks
That is a good question, I am not positive. Maybe check the video again to see if you can tell. I will do the same 👍 see if I can figure it out.
He is using a 10 ton porta power.
2018 F150 will have to rent me that hydraulic ram i just put 35s on with 2.5" level and 2" spacers and im getting rubbing on both front and rear crash bars so this would fix it without cutting the bars off
Yes, but keep.in mind really press them out as far as you can. Mine worked for a month then the elasticity in the metal they started to move back. Had to press them again.
@@RideTheEarthnow so might be best to just cut the crash bars instead of pressing out the crash bars
@@NordicViking88 i won't tell anyone to do that, they are obviously there for a reason. That being said. I cut my front ones out. So did a friend of mine. That is running a 2.5" level with 35x12.5 his wheels are -12 offset. Mine are 0 offset.
You going to regear?
I only did 33s on my 2.25 level because I tow a 7,000 travel trailer. I have the 3.55 gears but a regear would be $$$ because 4WD with IFS. otherwise I had raptor take offs ready to go with 35s but had to remove and replace with 33s.
If money wasn't an object I would probably go to 4.10's. But as always money is a big factor ha ha ha. I will say I haven't found the NEED to re-gear more of a want. The truck has tons of power, plenty to tow my travel trailer or the 4 atvs.
When you bent out your crash bars with the porapower, Approx how far did you bend them?
I pushed them out as far as they would go. When the rear crash bar started to touch the body.
Everyone keeps telling me I need a 6 inch lift for what I want. Someone chime in if they’re wrong . 2016 fx4 . I want 35s on 17s keep the rake . ????
my understanding is you can do a leveling kit in the front and a 1"-1.5" lift in the rear and that should keep the rake. I just have the leveling kit on the front and it makes mine level. 6" and 35's ? with a 6" i would want 37's :) i also prefer not to cut up the truck and keep it a little more mild as i drive it every day.
what wheel size did u use? Looks amazing
Thanks the wheels are 17inch by either 7"or 8" can't remember exactly. The offset is 0
How far did you space out the crash bars? How far can you safely do this?
i used the porta power and pressed them out as far as they would go, it gained me a couple inches for sure. As far as safely... that i dont know i am not an engineer so take these comments and or do this at your own risk :)
What is the hydraulic system called for when I got to rent it from a rental place?
port a power jack. Just an FYI I had to press the bars out again about 2 months later. It is all good now.
I bought this level kit and I did not know you needed to have a strut compressor. I haven’t installed it yet though. Is it true that you have to have 17” diameter wheels for this leveling kit?
The wheel diameter shouldn't matter, in relation to this or any leveling kit. The part I mention wheel size when I was reading the instructions was just a guide. The tire size and wheel offset are the most important factors.
@@RideTheEarthnow do you think I would be fine with a 20x10 -25 offset 4.49 backspacing wheel with 33x12.5 tires?
Sorry couldn't tell you. Not a wheel and tire specialist. Sorry no help.
Does it rub when you hit bumps and have the wheel turned?
No it doesn't I did have to trim a tiny bit of plastic, and I also pressed the crash bars apart with the porta power like i mentioned in the video around the 12:40 mark. that being said i haven't done any serious offroading with it. I imagine if i were to really flex it out turning in an offraod situation, then it would rub on the crash bars.
How do you feel about dropping my 2018 4 by 4 since I have some time early Spring I'm gonna be running subsonic
You want to remove your 4x4 system to make your truck faster? I don't have any expertise in that department, so if you do it let me know what happens.
@@RideTheEarthnow No man I'm just gonna drop it
@@RideTheEarthnow I have to put it in for will how to get an attraction at all
I said I have to put it in 4 wheel drive to get good traction
So do you think that a set of 20x10 with a set of 33/12.5 would fit without messing with the crash bars?
Uff I am no professional so I really couldn't say. Sorry
Ride The Earth no problems thanks.....have you had any trouble out of the ball joints or the cv angles?.....with not replacing the UCAs?
@@RhinoDoesItAll1991 Nothing yet. The 2.5" isn't too much and really doesn't stress them much. 3" pushes it (at least on ford's) and anything over 3" you definitely want different UCA's.
Ride The Earth ok cool so do you think the 3” with the UCAs would be worth the investment?
@@RhinoDoesItAll1991 personally if I were doing upper control arms I would do the 3.5" lift. I think ready lift has one, maybe a couple others. That is just an opinion though. I don't have any experience with that though. Just thinking If you are doing UCAs might as well get a bit more lift.
Did this affect your ride quality at all?
Nothing noticeable at all.
Did you try the 35s without the leveling kit? Would trimming without the leveling kit work?
I did not try that. I am sure you could but you would have to trim alot :)
Have a 2.5” moto fab leveling kit on my 2018 f150, have 35x11.50x18’s, the stock ford 18’s and I had no running, haven’t had to trim and didn’t have to swap crash bars, if you go to a 12 and a half wide you’re gonna have to swap crash bars or trim if you don’t get a wheel spacer, if you get a spacer you don’t want to push the tire out anymore then a couple inches if that from the fender because it will hit the crash bar and you will have to switch the sides of them
I have a 2015 with no lift on OEM 17" rims. I run 35x10.5 (actual dimensions 34.76" x11.04") Kenda Klever RTs, these don't rub even at full flex and turned to the stops.
I understand that most clearance problems requiring a lift are due to the tire width and modified rim backspacing as opposed to the increase in diameter.
@@toddbrackett4277 bet those 35’s look so good on the 17’s, I like the look of my 18’s but want to buy some gen3 blacked out raptor rims and put on my 35 trail grapps since they are 17’s, but yeah I bet it looks good, I just think the leveling kit and tires changed the whole look of the truck and didn’t like the rake look, just never been a fan of it, I know they do it to help with towing a trailer so it’ll sit level when towing heavy loads but I don’t do it all the time so it doesn’t bother me, I do tow a heavy load every now and then though
@gavinlee9478 , I really like the kendas. I actually got the best deal ordering these tires through a Chevy dealer and when they came in the technicians didn't think that they would fit but they did (barley).
I was excited that I was able to mount 35" RT tires on a bone stock truck with OEM rims including balancing and alignment for $1,100.
You make good points about the rake but I thought that it was good that I didn't need to alter the suspension/steering geometry or driveline angles.
Have you re-geared?
I have the 1:3.55 and it doesn't shift where it should.
The Raptor runs 35s or 37s and Ford has geared these trucks with the 1:4.10 so if I make any mechanical changes to the truck then this will probably be the first.
What a pain in the ass took me almost 2 days to do mine
It is a decent amount of work. I have done 3or 4 of them by now. Don't plan on doing anymore. Ha ha ha
Is your truck A 2x2 or 4x4
4x4
@@RideTheEarthnow Ah, I’m debating Ordering some 35x12.50r20s for my 2WD with a 2.5 level, is there a 35s with a lower width? I’m aware of trimming
@@adammuscariello3815 maybe, I am not too sure? You will really have to search for it. 35x12.5 is a pretty standard size.
I wanna do 34s with the same level kit. What are the measurements of those 35s?
They are 35x12.5 on 17's do you mean actual real measurements?
@@RideTheEarthnow yeah. I found 285/75 r 18 on the Goodyear site. The smallest 34. That will probably clear a little better in that wheel well. Your truck looks sweet!
Thanks and yeah that should fit better for sure, wheel offset plays into that alot too so keep that in mind. My wheels are 0 offset
@@RideTheEarthnow For sure. Thanks for your video. Very helpful info.
0 offset on 35’s or go home
Way easier to disconnect the brake and abs lines.
How did this affect your gas mileage
I get 14 mpg give or take but I don't drive slow. More boost than eco. I would say with the lift and bigger tires it is a difference of about 1mpg? I don't pay much attention to mpgs.
With my 35’s I went from 18.5 to 16.5, but I’m like him more boost than eco cuz I don’t drive slow at all, never have, always pushing a hundo or more on the interstate if there isn’t much traffic haha
I bought this level kit and I did not know you needed to have a strut compressor. I haven’t installed it yet though. Is it true that you have to have 17” diameter wheels for this leveling kit?
The wheel diameter shouldn't really matter for the kit. I have 17's because I like more rubber over rim. Yes strut compressor is needed and a pain in the butt.
@@RideTheEarthnow what strut compressor should I buy because I don’t want one that is too small, and I don’t want to spend hundreds of dollars?
www.harborfreight.com/single-action-strut-spring-compressor-43753.html
Here is the install video too.. ruclips.net/video/EQWJxgaK0SE/видео.html
I will warn you the spring compressor works but it is a struggle.