Hey man, my dad asked me to help him w this swap yesterday because he believed the manifold was cracked on that rear vacuum outlet at the bottom of the manifold, [causing a soft pedal, he had like 10% braking power] even tho the manifold was only a year or so old. So I watched 2 videos one being yours . and with what I learned I told him lemme feel back there first and see if I can feel and get a picture of whats up. Sure enough, his outlet wasn't cracked. His line wasn't even connected at the end of the 4" hose it was damaged and wouldn't hold the metal tube correctly. And removing just the 4" by hand was proving difficult because i didnt want to actually crack the outlet pulling on the hose so i cut a line w a razor knife straight down the 4" hose to the L. [Had to finesse it to get it vertical rather than horizontal] then, went and got a 8" replacement hose, i test fit for length it was about 6.5 to 7" when installed, then i just got everything snugged back together and bam. Full brakes again. No need to swap the manifold, it took 30 mins of our time not all day! btw, I'm 6.5 and my hands aren't small by any means amd working in between that firewall and other shit crammed In there while basically blind and w tools fkn sucked!! lmao. I did 90% of it by feel alone. So I just wanted to say thank you VERY MUCH because you're video gave me the info I needed to turn a day job into a quick fix. As soon as he started it and pressed the brakes he screamed FUCK YEAH and had a smile ear to ear and happy as can be lol.
Did a timing job, got p115e code after rough idle, realized that vacuum booster hose was way loose and just pulled out easily. I’m sure I knocked it loose pulling valve cover, I should have zip tied the pipe back before removing the valve cover. My 4th time doing 5.4 timing on various trucks. Anyhow ordered new line. Old one was all puffed up where it attaches to nipple on manifold. Disconnected fuel line on top of manifold and removed that plastic intake piece that sits on throttle body gave me more room to shove my hand back there, I was able to locate the nipple by feel. I had some 3/8 fuel line in garage for my boat and seemed to fit just right, I maneuvered hose by feel onto nipple by coming over the top and ran rest of hose on top, i had bout 2-3 feet, ran a clamp, used original, used the grenade pin from cast iron tensioner to keep it opened, started the clamp at unattached hose end and just ran it back to other end and pulled the pin and secured the clamp. Mashed the other end with hose clamp to the brake booster nipple, screw the metal pipe and routing it at the valve cover, mine comes over the top and ran it along top of firewall to the booster. Didn’t even need to new hose! Your vid help me locate nipple so thank you.
I've removed my intake manifold twice now! Unfortunately, I have to remove it for a third time... First go round was a complete nightmare. Second time around wasn't as terrible since I knew all the steps! Even then it was still a pain in the ass! First time I removed the coolant crossover without draining coolant... Boy that was a mistake. Second go around I didn't even touch the coolant crossover and was fortunately able to remove the manifold still. Hoping this is the last time I have to pull it for the intake manifold runner control. Originally, I thought it was bad, had P2004 stuck open code, so I replaced it during the first removal. I ran the wiring wrong and had a knock sensor wire pinched between the intake manifold and the top of the block. Hence why I had to remove and correct in the second removal. P2006 Intake Manifold Runner Control stuck closed has now appeared.... Lucky me huh?!?! So, I get to pull it for the third and final time (hopefully)... fingers crossed!!!
Thanks guys. I wish I had done more research prior to buying this truck. I am just starting out with DIY repairs and thought hey I'll just get in there and figure it out after some videos... WOW
Thanks man. You have to be the only one who has a brain and made sense to what I got going on. Thank you brother. I wish you good karma as you earned it.
Did you not have some panels under the manifold thru the holes or did you leave them out? I was thinking they were there to prevent vapor lock and etc. Also I'm in the process of removing the intake manifold from my nephew's 05 F150 4 x 4 Lariat 5.4 . To replace the cylinder head temp sensor, alternator, clean throttle body and etc. The message center on the cluster gave trouble codes indicating the temp guage wasn't working ( so im replacing both sensors) , low voltage( hence a new alternator) . I've got the intake mostly ready but something on the back still attached ? Difficult to tell what it is. Maybe that metal vaccum line and a hold down bolt for the wire crossing the back. Ran outa daylight. Lol😂. Unfortunately I'm where the term " shadetree mechanic " originated and I am maintaining the tradition. 😮 I look like I got caught in a hay baler. Seriously any tips for getting the rear completely disconnected is appreciated.
I think some of them have a foam insert underneath yes, However there were none in this unit. Usually all I can recommend is take your time and use lots of light to see what's hanging your intake up. I would suspect one of the connectors or possibly the attachment clip for the wiring harness maybe? Hard to say over the internet but I wish you best of luck! And watch out for those baler's 😅
Dude I'm in the same boat as you these motors are so mind-boggling why they put so many moving parts onto moving parts is beyond me and why they would want to rely on the oil pressure to pretty much run everything I'm currently on the third attempt of doing timing cam phaser everything from the heads and up. But thanks for that info I'm just going to go ahead and take that stupid little insulated skirt off of the thing it didn't have one before I started working on it but I seen one at the junkyard and I figured that I would grab it but it just seems to be a pain in the ass I'm just trying to figure out what the solenoid motor deal is on the back why does it say do not move by hand and how can you test it because obviously everybody's going to move it by hand it just because they want to see how it works. And it only seems to move or actuate a quarter of the way like it's restricting the air but I'm sure that wants the harness is hooked up to it it's going to perform or move the way it wants to or open up all the way. I'm just curious to find out if there is a way you can test these to see if they do work.
If you guys are looking to replace the actuator on the back the name your looking for is (intake manifold valve actuator) your auto part storea should be able to order you one.
Hi @gidderman, from your experience, what can cause the engine to shake only after warming up? The shaking seems to always start after I hear a noise, similar to the sound hot metal would make if water was poured on it, or many like a little metal hamar hitting a metal bell. Then next time, after it cools down, it doesn't shake until it warms up again. Steam is coming out of the exhaust pipe, I thought it was a leaking head gasket but I tried a few of the best head gasket sealers and it didn't seem to help. Do you think maybe the upper intake is leaking coolant into the combustion chamber? Maybe a bad valve? I really appreciate you sharing your experience with us.
Hello @florenbaron7111, thanks for your comment. It is really hard to say with out more information. A few questions: are you loosing any coolant, is there a check engine light on and is it flashing during the shaking?
Thank you for responding! Yes, I am loosing coolant and when I start the vehicle after it sits for awhile a thick plume of smoke comes out and then reduces a lot after about 10 seconds. There is no oil residue in the exhaust pipe, only water. There is no DCT besides a key is circuit fault which is seemingly unrelated. The vehicle also won't finish most of the readiness tests. Thank you so much for your guidance!
@@florenbaron7111 ok, some simple things you can do is pull the spark plugs and check if any of them are fouled, this would indicate possible coolant burning in the affected cylinder(s). Be sure to watch a video first on removing them because they can be troublesome and break off in the cylinder heads. The intake leaking is less likely, but not impossible. Head gasket sealers in the coolant usually do not work, especially if the engine was overheated. The problem being, that they can clog critical coolant passages in the cooling system leading to localized overheating (usually in the heads). Was the coolant dirty or sour smelling before you put the leak stop in? Did the engine overheat before?
I really appreciate you sharing your experiences with us. I did remove the spark plugs and replaced them. They were dark and not clean. It seems the spark plug wells had water in them, but that could have been from me spraying parts of my vehicle with a hose. The water inside the plug wells was seemingly mixed with oil too. Oy one side bank seemed to have water/oil in the wells, the bank by the thermostat housing. I think the people who sold me the van did something to the computer so it won't give me DTCs. The van won't finish the readiness tests. I think the van overheated because the van did not let me know of the problem. I replaced the water pump and now there is preasure in the cooling system and it seems water is flowing better. The coolant was very dark and contaminated when I first drained it. I flushed the cooling system before using stop leak products. Fefore I flushed the system, the heater did not blow hot and there was no engine shacking, no noticeable reduced power, etc. Yet soon after flushing the nasty contaminated coolant, that's when the engine shaking and reduced power started. Because of a suspicious conversation I overhead by the people who sold me the van, I know they did something to rig the system. I am not quite sure what but it is an issue that I am trying to resolve. The coolant does gradually leak somewhere because I have to refill it. When I first turn on the van, after it sits for awhile, a lot more smoke or steam comes out of the exhaust pipe but then is reduces. But it still has steam or smoke coming out of the exhaust. I tauched the inside of the exhaust pipe and it is not oily, just wet. When the engine is cold, the engine does not shake. I am thinking coolant might be leaking into the air intake and through the valve ports. Thank you so much for your guidance. People like you are really important for our community.
Oh, and the van has code B1352 but I had that when I first purchased the van and I concluded it's unrelated. Although whatever they did to rig the system might have caused it.
Bro, thank you for the tips. I’m pulling the intake to access that vacuum line. I put a steering rack on a 08 and after the job the truck was dumping black smoke. I unplugged the fuel rail sensor and it would run, but I noticed if I wiggle that vacuum line it would clear up and run fine with it plugged in, but if you move that hose it would dump fuel again. I finally got to that vacuum line down there and didn’t find any holes or slits in the line 🤷🏻♂️so now I don’t know what to do to this nightmare! Any suggestions please?
It's hard for me to say, but if I had to guess maybe that line is eroded and loose on the back of the intake... Get a bright light and a good mirror down there, hopefully you find the issue if you haven't already, good luck 👍
not likely, there are little seals all over the place for the variable runnner flaps that might not like that. perhaps with complete dis-assembly you could was it, and make sure to oil all the bushings and sealsupon re-assembly
Make sure you replace the spark plugs when you do this job, it will be the easiest chance you get. Mine is a 2003 and the connectors to the fuel injectors are very brittle, so be careful my friends!
Ikr! Over 200 videos on youtube and not 1 mechanic actually shows you how they 1. Unlock the fucking clips that hold the tie rods on, 2. Remove the rods without damaging the bushings. And 3. How put the clips back on without bending them. That's why we watched the video, and they all just left that shit out.
I may or may not edit this when i have time to rotate the video. Thanks youtube for removing the rotate feature in yt studio, then blocking the hack that used to work to get rotate back...
Mine had popped off somehow. I had to tape the damn vacuum line boot onto a screwdriver and feed it down from the top. My 2004 is on the passenger side. The screwdriver with tape wouldn’t come free so I had to zap strap the screwdriver to the fuel line to hold it haha it will now forever have a screwdriver in back there. What a dumb design. Why not connect up higher, engineers can be so stupid?! Oh and I used a borescope with the light and camera to guide everything down back there because it’s impossible to see.
Hey man, my dad asked me to help him w this swap yesterday because he believed the manifold was cracked on that rear vacuum outlet at the bottom of the manifold, [causing a soft pedal, he had like 10% braking power] even tho the manifold was only a year or so old. So I watched 2 videos one being yours . and with what I learned I told him lemme feel back there first and see if I can feel and get a picture of whats up. Sure enough, his outlet wasn't cracked. His line wasn't even connected at the end of the 4" hose it was damaged and wouldn't hold the metal tube correctly. And removing just the 4" by hand was proving difficult because i didnt want to actually crack the outlet pulling on the hose so i cut a line w a razor knife straight down the 4" hose to the L. [Had to finesse it to get it vertical rather than horizontal] then, went and got a 8" replacement hose, i test fit for length it was about 6.5 to 7" when installed, then i just got everything snugged back together and bam. Full brakes again. No need to swap the manifold, it took 30 mins of our time not all day! btw, I'm 6.5 and my hands aren't small by any means amd working in between that firewall and other shit crammed In there while basically blind and w tools fkn sucked!! lmao. I did 90% of it by feel alone. So I just wanted to say thank you VERY MUCH because you're video gave me the info I needed to turn a day job into a quick fix. As soon as he started it and pressed the brakes he screamed FUCK YEAH and had a smile ear to ear and happy as can be lol.
You are a brave man to sacrifice that much skin from your hands to that nasty fiberglass insulation on the firewall. I am glad my video could help! 👍
@@gidderman it certainly did! Also, no fiberglass on my hands lol
Did a timing job, got p115e code after rough idle, realized that vacuum booster hose was way loose and just pulled out easily. I’m sure I knocked it loose pulling valve cover, I should have zip tied the pipe back before removing the valve cover. My 4th time doing 5.4 timing on various trucks. Anyhow ordered new line. Old one was all puffed up where it attaches to nipple on manifold. Disconnected fuel line on top of manifold and removed that plastic intake piece that sits on throttle body gave me more room to shove my hand back there, I was able to locate the nipple by feel. I had some 3/8 fuel line in garage for my boat and seemed to fit just right, I maneuvered hose by feel onto nipple by coming over the top and ran rest of hose on top, i had bout 2-3 feet, ran a clamp, used original, used the grenade pin from cast iron tensioner to keep it opened, started the clamp at unattached hose end and just ran it back to other end and pulled the pin and secured the clamp. Mashed the other end with hose clamp to the brake booster nipple, screw the metal pipe and routing it at the valve cover, mine comes over the top and ran it along top of firewall to the booster. Didn’t even need to new hose! Your vid help me locate nipple so thank you.
I've removed my intake manifold twice now! Unfortunately, I have to remove it for a third time... First go round was a complete nightmare. Second time around wasn't as terrible since I knew all the steps! Even then it was still a pain in the ass! First time I removed the coolant crossover without draining coolant... Boy that was a mistake. Second go around I didn't even touch the coolant crossover and was fortunately able to remove the manifold still. Hoping this is the last time I have to pull it for the intake manifold runner control. Originally, I thought it was bad, had P2004 stuck open code, so I replaced it during the first removal. I ran the wiring wrong and had a knock sensor wire pinched between the intake manifold and the top of the block. Hence why I had to remove and correct in the second removal. P2006 Intake Manifold Runner Control stuck closed has now appeared.... Lucky me huh?!?! So, I get to pull it for the third and final time (hopefully)... fingers crossed!!!
Hi, what was stuck closed? PCV! EGR?
Thanks guys. I wish I had done more research prior to buying this truck. I am just starting out with DIY repairs and thought hey I'll just get in there and figure it out after some videos... WOW
Saved my life today. Another day another code with the Triton.
The 5.4L Journey is a long and expensive one :(
Thank you so much man. Lost an hour trying to unplug the IMRC from the top.
Very informative. Thankyou :) i felt sorry on the last part when you say Oh God.
Thanks man, about to replace the knock sensor and this helped alot.
No problemo 👍
Thanks man. You have to be the only one who has a brain and made sense to what I got going on. Thank you brother. I wish you good karma as you earned it.
I strive to help any man who finds themselves on this horrible horrible 5.4L journey.
I love how these engines sound with cold air intake when the intake runners switch
great video ! great advice !! Thank you for taking the time .... most appreciate ! 👍
Did you not have some panels under the manifold thru the holes or did you leave them out? I was thinking they were there to prevent vapor lock and etc.
Also I'm in the process of removing the intake manifold from my nephew's 05 F150 4 x 4 Lariat 5.4 . To replace the cylinder head temp sensor, alternator, clean throttle body and etc. The message center on the cluster gave trouble codes indicating the temp guage wasn't working ( so im replacing both sensors) , low voltage( hence a new alternator) . I've got the intake mostly ready but something on the back still attached ? Difficult to tell what it is. Maybe that metal vaccum line and a hold down bolt for the wire crossing the back. Ran outa daylight. Lol😂. Unfortunately I'm where the term " shadetree mechanic " originated and I am maintaining the tradition. 😮
I look like I got caught in a hay baler. Seriously any tips for getting the rear completely disconnected is appreciated.
I think some of them have a foam insert underneath yes, However there were none in this unit. Usually all I can recommend is take your time and use lots of light to see what's hanging your intake up. I would suspect one of the connectors or possibly the attachment clip for the wiring harness maybe? Hard to say over the internet but I wish you best of luck! And watch out for those baler's 😅
Dude I'm in the same boat as you these motors are so mind-boggling why they put so many moving parts onto moving parts is beyond me and why they would want to rely on the oil pressure to pretty much run everything I'm currently on the third attempt of doing timing cam phaser everything from the heads and up. But thanks for that info I'm just going to go ahead and take that stupid little insulated skirt off of the thing it didn't have one before I started working on it but I seen one at the junkyard and I figured that I would grab it but it just seems to be a pain in the ass I'm just trying to figure out what the solenoid motor deal is on the back why does it say do not move by hand and how can you test it because obviously everybody's going to move it by hand it just because they want to see how it works. And it only seems to move or actuate a quarter of the way like it's restricting the air but I'm sure that wants the harness is hooked up to it it's going to perform or move the way it wants to or open up all the way. I'm just curious to find out if there is a way you can test these to see if they do work.
Lo vemos desde Venezuela, excelente video. Seria maravilloso que lo tradujera.
hola amigo, lo siento no hablo español con fluidez, pero gracias por tu comentario!
If you guys are looking to replace the actuator on the back the name your looking for is (intake manifold valve actuator) your auto part storea should be able to order you one.
This is the video I needed. Thanks.
Thank you so much
Great video man. Thanks a lot 🤜🏻
Hi @gidderman, from your experience, what can cause the engine to shake only after warming up? The shaking seems to always start after I hear a noise, similar to the sound hot metal would make if water was poured on it, or many like a little metal hamar hitting a metal bell. Then next time, after it cools down, it doesn't shake until it warms up again. Steam is coming out of the exhaust pipe, I thought it was a leaking head gasket but I tried a few of the best head gasket sealers and it didn't seem to help. Do you think maybe the upper intake is leaking coolant into the combustion chamber? Maybe a bad valve? I really appreciate you sharing your experience with us.
Hello @florenbaron7111, thanks for your comment. It is really hard to say with out more information. A few questions: are you loosing any coolant, is there a check engine light on and is it flashing during the shaking?
Thank you for responding! Yes, I am loosing coolant and when I start the vehicle after it sits for awhile a thick plume of smoke comes out and then reduces a lot after about 10 seconds. There is no oil residue in the exhaust pipe, only water. There is no DCT besides a key is circuit fault which is seemingly unrelated. The vehicle also won't finish most of the readiness tests. Thank you so much for your guidance!
@@florenbaron7111 ok, some simple things you can do is pull the spark plugs and check if any of them are fouled, this would indicate possible coolant burning in the affected cylinder(s). Be sure to watch a video first on removing them because they can be troublesome and break off in the cylinder heads. The intake leaking is less likely, but not impossible. Head gasket sealers in the coolant usually do not work, especially if the engine was overheated. The problem being, that they can clog critical coolant passages in the cooling system leading to localized overheating (usually in the heads). Was the coolant dirty or sour smelling before you put the leak stop in? Did the engine overheat before?
I really appreciate you sharing your experiences with us. I did remove the spark plugs and replaced them. They were dark and not clean. It seems the spark plug wells had water in them, but that could have been from me spraying parts of my vehicle with a hose. The water inside the plug wells was seemingly mixed with oil too. Oy one side bank seemed to have water/oil in the wells, the bank by the thermostat housing. I think the people who sold me the van did something to the computer so it won't give me DTCs. The van won't finish the readiness tests. I think the van overheated because the van did not let me know of the problem. I replaced the water pump and now there is preasure in the cooling system and it seems water is flowing better. The coolant was very dark and contaminated when I first drained it. I flushed the cooling system before using stop leak products. Fefore I flushed the system, the heater did not blow hot and there was no engine shacking, no noticeable reduced power, etc. Yet soon after flushing the nasty contaminated coolant, that's when the engine shaking and reduced power started. Because of a suspicious conversation I overhead by the people who sold me the van, I know they did something to rig the system. I am not quite sure what but it is an issue that I am trying to resolve. The coolant does gradually leak somewhere because I have to refill it. When I first turn on the van, after it sits for awhile, a lot more smoke or steam comes out of the exhaust pipe but then is reduces. But it still has steam or smoke coming out of the exhaust. I tauched the inside of the exhaust pipe and it is not oily, just wet. When the engine is cold, the engine does not shake. I am thinking coolant might be leaking into the air intake and through the valve ports. Thank you so much for your guidance. People like you are really important for our community.
Oh, and the van has code B1352 but I had that when I first purchased the van and I concluded it's unrelated. Although whatever they did to rig the system might have caused it.
Bro, thank you for the tips. I’m pulling the intake to access that vacuum line. I put a steering rack on a 08 and after the job the truck was dumping black smoke. I unplugged the fuel rail sensor and it would run, but I noticed if I wiggle that vacuum line it would clear up and run fine with it plugged in, but if you move that hose it would dump fuel again. I finally got to that vacuum line down there and didn’t find any holes or slits in the line 🤷🏻♂️so now I don’t know what to do to this nightmare! Any suggestions please?
It's hard for me to say, but if I had to guess maybe that line is eroded and loose on the back of the intake... Get a bright light and a good mirror down there, hopefully you find the issue if you haven't already, good luck 👍
@@gidderman thank you for replying,took the intake off and rebuilt the line. Didn’t help. Runs great with fuel rail sensor unplugged, but sets 2 codes
Great video! ManyThanks!!!
Could i pour degreaser inside the manifold a wash it really good without damaging anything?
not likely, there are little seals all over the place for the variable runnner flaps that might not like that. perhaps with complete dis-assembly you could was it, and make sure to oil all the bushings and sealsupon re-assembly
2009 f150 5.4...I took my intake off and it doesn't have a intake runner control
Interesting, i know there was different varients over the years but i did not know as early as 09'. Thanks for the info!
Make sure you replace the spark plugs when you do this job, it will be the easiest chance you get. Mine is a 2003 and the connectors to the fuel injectors are very brittle, so be careful my friends!
Where can I find imrc diagram?
Why doesnt anyone show taking it apart and putting it all back together?
Ikr! Over 200 videos on youtube and not 1 mechanic actually shows you how they
1. Unlock the fucking clips that hold the tie rods on,
2. Remove the rods without damaging the bushings.
And 3. How put the clips back on without bending them.
That's why we watched the video, and they all just left that shit out.
I messed up, that's my problem now😢
I may or may not edit this when i have time to rotate the video. Thanks youtube for removing the rotate feature in yt studio, then blocking the hack that used to work to get rotate back...
Sorry bud this video was an afterthought. If I get to doing another one I will record the whole process 👍
Mine had popped off somehow. I had to tape the damn vacuum line boot onto a screwdriver and feed it down from the top. My 2004 is on the passenger side. The screwdriver with tape wouldn’t come free so I had to zap strap the screwdriver to the fuel line to hold it haha it will now forever have a screwdriver in back there. What a dumb design. Why not connect up higher, engineers can be so stupid?!
Oh and I used a borescope with the light and camera to guide everything down back there because it’s impossible to see.
These engines are the stupidest to work on it’s ridiculous!
I'm just wondering for future reference, what are the easier engines to work on?
Damn I hate ford